DIY Fiat Marea Steering Rack Repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Fiat Marea steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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vetrolet09 08 Dec 2011

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vetrolet09 08 Dec 2011

not a fig sse options. and on parse to take live bucks for 100?
In our city, reiki is sorted out. The price tag is from 3 to 8, depending on the class and brand of car .. and you just named some cosmic prices ..

And we did not hear about the bulkhead of the rails, they said that they were sent to Moscow, so the same 10000r. , and the next showdown with brav, the same in Moscow, 7200r. without delivery, and you won't check it, working, no, you have to take your word for it.

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black_angel33 08 Dec 2011

The repair kit option 50na50 depends on the specialist who will sort it out. again the price of the question? and the rake in the collection is rake.

I would have changed it myself, but I wonder what is included in the kit

When removing the steering rack, an unforeseen problem arose: the lever (1) of the gear selection mechanism, mounted on a rubber bushing, cannot be removed from the pin of the rack (in the picture)

Has anyone faced a similar problem ?. Is there any chemical way to separate rubber from metal?

I changed my rail, killed it all day.
if someone is going to change, so as not to remove the main bearing beam, the rail (with power steering) goes out and enters only on the right side and with troubles.

I did it on a lift
I will try to describe the processes in order:
1. He took off the front wheels

2.unscrewed and knocked out the steering tips

3.Unscrew the two bolts securing the rail from the carrier

4.removed the rubber cap and then removed the retaining clip on the gearshift mechanism, see the picture
(I made the picture because it was unrealistic to see what kind of stopper was there and how to remove it, the head with the eyes did not fit

Video (click to play).

the first thing that came to hand is a mobile phone)

5. pushed the rail a few centimeters forward (otherwise the body and sound insulation interfere) and removed this mechanism

6. unscrewed the hoses, including the clamp for attaching the pressure hose to the rail on the right

7.screw the left rail fastening bolt back

8.Unscrew the steering column cardan bolt and removed it (at the driver's feet)

9. turned on the ignition (to release the steering wheel lock)

10.Pressing the cardan with his foot (forward so that there is no skewing) pulled the cardan over the steering wheel, got off the steering column rod

11. Unscrew the left rail mounting bolt back

13. unscrewed the earrings of the transverse stabilizer on both sides by turning them horizontally back, the stabilizer pressed on the left side to the suspension arm with a clamp

14. Having raised the gear shift rods, I removed the sealing rubber with a plastic washer (those that seal the connection between the rack and the cab) and began to move the rack to the right

15. upon reaching the opportunity to tilt the rail with the rod into the exhaust / catalyst shaft, tilt the rail with the rod into the shaft, otherwise the rail with the rod will cling to the shift rods (a very hemorrhagic moment)

16.we move the rail further to the right until the rod passes the switching thrust, after which we immediately scroll the rail with the rod up and move further to the right

17.remove the plastic protection on the right under the spar

18. almost pulled out when the rod rests against the spar, slightly tilt the rail with the rod forward into the angle of the carrier to the spar, where the brake pipe of the right wheel comes out from under the spar.
(Carefully the tube can be damaged if the iron / steel tube needs to be painted over the scratches from the rod)

19.lift the right side of the rail and move this part forward a little
so that the bottom left of the rail comes out first.

According to the latest poll data, residents of St. Petersburg and the region as a whole prefer inexpensive, but high-quality middle-class cars, such as Skoda, Volkswagen, Kia and Fiat. However, trips on domestic roads "kill" even high-quality cars, the chassis and steering mechanism are especially affected.

One of the important components of the control mechanism is the steering rack, which transmits power to the wheels of the car. To avoid repairing a fiat steering rack, you need to know more about this design.

The mechanism consists of interacting parts: a toothed gear and a toothed plate. The gear is equipped with bearings, a circlip and a retaining nut, as well as a protective cover. The toothed plate consists of two parts: the right part rests on the bushing of the mechanism body, the left part is pressed against the gear by a stop equipped with a spring. The spring itself is fixed with an adjusting nut and a lock nut. The rods are attached to the mechanism with the help of ball joints.

Signs of malfunction and impending repair of a Fiat steering rack, such as Fiat Albea, can be detected on your own.

If you hear suspicious knocks, noises in the pump, hum when turning the steering wheel from the side of the front suspension, these are clear signs of wear or breakdown of structural parts.

In case of malfunctions, it is possible to "bite" the steering wheel, hard movement when cornering, it is especially difficult to control at the extreme positions of the steering wheel
A hum when the steering wheel is rotated can signal a leak in the oil seals, a low level of fluid in the power steering reservoir.

If these signs are present, it's time to go to diagnose the car.

The most common reason for repairing the steering rack of Fiat Doblo and other models is sloppy driving.

Domestic roads in themselves are imperfect, so you should not add problems to the car by aggressive driving. Fast travel over pits, bumps, speed bumps, rails - all this takes away the life of the structure.

The reason may be holding the steering wheel in the extreme position for a long time. It is advisable not to hold this for more than five seconds. Also, a likely reason may be a negligent attitude towards the car: the state of such a delicate design must be monitored, the anthers and oil seals must be checked for wear, they often become unusable.

An experienced auto mechanic will tell you where the source of the problem is, even performing visual and auditory diagnostics. A knock heard when driving can indicate several reasons:

Incorrect angle of contact between shaft screw and teeth.
Wear of hinges, oil seals, bearings, seals, etc.
Incorrect shaft movement.
Poor fixation of the toothed plate.

Steering play is also caused by various details:

The spool stop is loose.
The silent blocks are worn out.
The shaft is bent.

To find out the exact cause of the malfunction, you need to carry out diagnostics at a car service.

If knocks are heard from the steering wheel, namely a knock from a toothed pair, this does not always mean repairing the steering rack of Fiat Tempra, Ducato and others. The diagnostics carried out may not reveal any problems, except for an increase in the gap between the rack and the gear. In this case, adjust or tighten.

The car is driven into a hole and, if everything is done correctly, the backlash is measured, for this there is a special device - a backlash. The permissible backlash is no more than 10 degrees, this applies to all cars. Tightening the adjusting screw or nut is carried out slowly and carefully. This nut is unpinned and turned to the desired value. It is advisable to clean this gap from accumulated dirt before tightening.

If the adjusting screw is tightened firmly, the steering wheel will bite when turning.

Let us consider in detail how the repair of the steering rack of a Fiat Ducato takes place in a car service.

The construction was removed by the master from the car, then he begins to disassemble it:

It removes the anthers, gives up the hinges of the rods and removes the rods themselves, diagnoses the worm gear along the entire stroke.
Drain hydraulic fluid, release locknut, and remove hold-down adjusting nut.
Then he removes the spring and stem clamp, removes the bottom plug and unscrews the distributor shank nut. Removes the distributor, diagnoses its condition.
Removes the retaining spring, then the stopper itself.
Shifts the stem and removes the back support with the right stuffing box, removes the stem. Examines the stem surface for wear.
Using a puller, removes the left stem oil seal.

All parts are cleaned of dust and dirt and thoroughly washed and degreased. On a lathe, the surface of the stem and the journal of the distributor shaft are ground. New oil seals and o-rings will be installed during assembly.

The left gland is installed, the rod teeth are lubricated, the rod is installed in the body.
The worm gear is lubricated and the valve is installed in the housing.
A lubricated clamp is installed in its original place, then a spring and a nut with a locknut.
The nut of the distributor shank is lubricated and tightened, a plug is installed.
The upper distributor bearing is lubricated and installed and pressed with a mandrel.
The rear support with the right oil seal is installed, then the stopper and the stopper spring.

At the stand, the operability of the distributor and the absence of leaks are checked.

The repair has been carried out, the structure is ready for installation on the vehicle.

The rack, in other words, is a gear pair: a gear and a horizontal piece of iron. With a straight-line movement of the machine, this pair wears out, if from time to time it is not pulled up to the gear, because in the teeth of both one and the other there is a production. The main thing here is not to overdo it - if you tighten it tightly, the steering wheel will "bite", and this will lead to a complete replacement of the entire structure. It is better to entrust the adjustment of the fiat steering rack to a specialist.

If fluid leaks from the power steering, you should undergo diagnostics, since the reason may not only be in the oil seals, as many think. Leakage occurs due to wear or marriage of clamps, nozzles, hoses, pump and other reasons.

A complete replacement is not always necessary: this structure is repairable, and a Fiat steering rack repair kit is easy to find.

A defective steering rack is a headache for any car owner. Elimination of this problem will leave the driver without a car during the repair, and the repair itself will cause unpleasant minutes and expectations, and costs. Therefore, it is better to undergo a scheduled inspection on time and drive the car carefully, then it will last longer.

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Hello everyone, I changed the rail myself.
there you simply unscrew it from the beam, remove the steering tips with a puller, disconnect the splined connection in the cabin.
then on the rail I have a metal triangle on the pin with the gearbox rods, disconnect them from the box, on the pin on the rail there is a spring washer, then remove the washer and this whole structure is removed from the rail.
Now the most interesting thing is to lift the right side and remove the wheel. and if you look at the right side, you turn the rail 40-60 degrees and pull it all out.

And finally. anything can knock. I knocked and the ball when the bolt in the hub was loosened. and on the rail on the right side (distant from the gears), a polymer-rubber bushing was worn out, so the rod of the rail on which the ball joint is screwed dangled when I ran into a bump, (it is very easy to check with your hand for the corrugation on the rails on the right and try to swing if it dangles then it is necessary change the bushing) the bushing costs 15 or 30 hryvnias, I don’t remember.

I think it will help if the topic is still relevant.
_________________
"To each his own"

AlMS 06 Oct 2009, 08:39

44. October 12, 2009 4:09 pm

Eburg 18 March 2010, 17:02

44. 18 Mar 2010, 17:07

Eburg 19 Mar 2010, 20:27

tundelta March 20, 2010 11:49 am

A restored rail for Moscow stores costs around 3500-4000 rubles with a guarantee ..
By the way, knock. At the GP, more interesting things began to surface on the knock of the helmsman. The dealers know that the steering column is bursting due to a constructive defect. But the fact that the axle of the steering shaft (upper part) is flared and begins to knock and this is fraught with cranking at one fine moment - it became news to us .. Several of these machines have already been under repair.

_GaS_ June 02, 2010 1:37 pm

Gregory_714 June 02, 2010 5:16 pm

_GaS_ June 15, 2010 10:18 am

Eburg wrote: Yesterday I took up the repair of the steering shaft. I took it myself, tk. in the service, they pre-counted from 2500r, with the removal of the steering wheel, with the disassembly of the electric reinforcement. and so on (I showed this tundelta instruction). Removal took 10 minutes, twisted 2 screws, drove the inner half into the outer one. half-fall, pulled down the entire shaft and that's it; welding 2min, welded the crosspiece to the outside. a half-shaft for 4 points; installation 20 minutes (it is inconvenient to insert it up).
The shaft itself does not correspond to that described in the instructions from tundelta.
In the photo, the upper part of the shaft on the left (the date on the photos is shot down)

Knocks issued a cross, poorly fitted to the outer half-shaft. It’s bad because it’s stupidly pressed, we could have brewed it at the factory for reliability.

Eburg June 15, 2010 10:33 pm

_GaS_ 17 Jun 2010, 09:57

barmy_vbg June 22, 2010 4:03 pm

barmy_vbg June 22, 2010 4:06 pm

44. June 22, 2010 6:24 pm

DanKA June 22, 2010 11:54 pm

“The steering wheel structure is made from magnesium to reduce weight and improve strength. Reach and steering wheel height are adjustable.

To reduce vibration of the steering column, it is supported by a steel frame, which in turn is supported by a steel bracket.

The steering column is a sliding telescopic structure to improve safety.

Steering rack - with constant gear ratio (51mm / rev),

The servo is an electric type located on the steering column.

The steering racks for different tire sizes have different lengths and travels:
- 148mm with 15 "- 16" - 17 "tires
- 140mm with 18 ″ tires. "

Why is there no elearna and epera on this site? Conveniently, once and looked when necessary.

The possibility of repairing the Fiat Marea steering rack can be assessed at our stations at the time of diagnosis. If the steering rack housing is intact (no cracks) and upon opening, the shaft will also be intact, then repairing the Fiat Marea steering rack will most likely be possible.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.

WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

Fiat Marea steering rack repair takes 1 to 2 days. There are, of course, exceptions, but quite rarely. If the diagnostics show that the problem is in the rail, and not in the power steering pump, then we remove the rail and repair it at our stations. Also, we can repair the power steering and electric power steering.

After repairing the rail, you will definitely need to do the wheel alignment. If desired, we can also change the tie rods and steering tips. After installing the handled steering rack, we will flush the steering system and fill the power steering tank with new fluid.

When to make repairs:
- a knock appeared in the steering rack;
- the steering wheel has become tight and turns with difficulty;
- smudges on the steering rack visible in the parking lot;
- hum in the power steering;
- incorrect return of the steering wheel to its original position;
- when turning the steering wheel, the wheels remain in their original position.

Work guarantee - 3-6 months

Diagnostics during repairs with us is free!

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

Disconnect the battery before removing the steering. • Unscrew and remove the cover of the cross in the passenger compartment under the pedals. • Unscrew the clamping bolt and the nut of the lower control shaft cross, as shown in Figure 131, knock out the bolt and pull the steering shaft up [...]

The front wheels are adjusted when the vehicle is under operational load, that is, the vehicle must be unloaded and filled with fuel, oil and water. Pivot caster The pivot caster is adjusted by installing washers 2.5 mm thick on the stretch in the place shown in [...]

Replacing the steering shaft. The steering shaft can be replaced without removing the steering.First, disconnect the cross from the top side (Figure 122), remove the tie bolts, and pull the steering column upwards, grasping the steering wheel. • Then separate the lower crosspiece [...]

Steering repair. The steering wheel cannot be disassembled. If worn or damaged, the steering must be replaced. If there is "bumpy" steering while driving, it may be necessary to adjust the rack damper. This requires removal of the steering. Provided that […]

All vehicles covered in this publication are fitted with rack and pinion steering as shown in Figure 120. From about January 1989, some vehicles have been fitted with power steering. Rice. 120 Rack and pinion steering. The numbers indicate [...]

perhaps the tip creaks. look they have not been restored.

I personally got acquainted with the structure at night in a ten-degree frost.
There is nothing complicated there.

If there are no keys, then buy. Leave these complaints.
The car must stand without wheels on tragus.
Bricks are not reliable at all. Shake the car firmly before climbing.
JOKER laid out the necessary pictures thanks.
From inside, unscrew the black cover and you will see a bolt across the steering shaft.
You also need it.
For convenience, you can also remove the steering shaft.
The entire steering shaft with steering wheel assembly is also easy to remove.
Remove the plastics from it and also the bolts from below, and undock the connectors.
The cabin will be spacious and comfortable.

Fasten the rail with bolts from above and cannot be reached with a regular head.
The front ones are visible and aim at them.
You need an extended head or tubular key.
There it is necessary to choose a suitable length according to the length.
You have already tried the short one, but the longer one will not fit either.
Anything I got turned out to be the right one. Lucky.

Rubber hoses do not pose any particular difficulties.
Well, just now, liquid will flow from them. Blood red.

You don't have to bother with the cones on the steering tips.
Unscrew at the couplings.

If you cope with the dismantling, then I will continue further.
If it is unbearable, then I warn you.
There is absolutely no need to rip the steering wheel in half and
even dangerous for its further use.

Hello dear motorists! It will not be about fighting, this is your favorite car, but the tactics of servicing the steering should be developed by you.

During the operation of the vehicle, its steering mechanism is subject to gradual wear, which can lead to failure of the steering system. In no case should this be allowed, since failure of the steering is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

More correctly on your part, it will regularly conduct a technical inspection of the machine in order to identify potential malfunctions in a timely manner. In the course of such an inspection, the backlash of the steering wheel rotation, the integrity of the steering mechanism: the steering gear, the steering rack are necessarily checked.

If you notice symptoms that indicate a probable malfunction of the steering, it is worth considering how to repair the steering rack.

And, as soon as you decide to repair the steering rack with your own hands, just get acquainted with the procedure using the example of repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 car. Technological operations are, in principle, the same. With the exception of taking into account the design features of the steering rack on cars of different brands.

It is advisable to carry out the process of repairing the steering mechanism with an assistant, since it will be somewhat difficult for one to disassemble and assemble the steering rack.

Before starting work, you need to make a purchase of equipment for repairing steering racks, consisting of a steering rack repair kit, a corrugation, a bearing on the gear shaft and plus - a small tube of Litol grease.

Necessary tools for repairing steering racks: special 17 octagonal wrench, tools for handling bearings, including special pliers for mounting the circlip and bearing puller.

In addition, you will need a standard set of wrenches. The whole procedure for repairing the steering rack with your own hands, it will be much more convenient for you to perform using a viewing hole or overpass.

Unpin the nuts on the steering pins, then press the pins out of the holes in the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
Unscrew the locking bolt on the spline located at the pedal assembly.
Using a 13-point head, unscrew a pair of nuts that hold the steering gear against the car body.
Remove the brackets of the mechanism.
Disconnect the steering shaft and drive gear, jack up the right side of the machine and pull the steering box out through the wheel well.
Unscrew the bolts on the steering rods using a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel (required to bend the edges of the lock plate).
Remove the connecting and retaining plates and disconnect the tie rods.
Remove the rubber mount and the protective cover.
Dismantle the rail.
After disassembly, flush the crankcase of the mechanism and press a new bearing from the repair kit into it.
Lubricate the gears with Litol and assemble the assembly in reverse order.
After completing the assembly, adjust the gap between the nut and the stop to 0.12 mm.

Thus, you, on your own, made the restoration of the steering rack, which takes about two hours of time.

In general, this procedure can be assessed as repair work of average complexity. Such repairs are quite possible for amateur performance.

It is only important to have the necessary locksmith skills, patience, perseverance in achieving this goal.

Carrying out car repairs on your own allows you not only to reduce the financial costs of its maintenance, but also makes it possible to learn more about the design features of the components of a modern car, feel freer and more confident, being alone with your car.

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A detailed photo report on replacing bearings in the rear arm of a Fiat Marea. We purchase a repair kit and proceed with the replacement.

We also need grease for the bearings. I took Divinol. How do you like this grease? the fact that it is high temperature and refractory so to speak! Although in our case, any lubricant is suitable, since the bearings do not spin in the lever, but only go up and down, there are no high revolutions.

We unscrew the wheel, jack the car very well, securing it by placing the wheel for insurance + also that thread is for safety reasons, since we will have to climb under it many times. We remove the wheel and what we see.

First of all, we unscrew the ABS sensor and the brake pipe.

I plugged the brake pipe using an old brake hose, placing a piece of rubber between them so that our brake fluid does not go away: I also plugged the caliper hose with an old hose too, but any plug would fit here, since here we need a plug just so that no sand gets in.

We unscrew the mount from the lever and put it all aside.

We unscrew the shock absorber and the rod from the lever. After sprinkling with a WD drum

We jack up the lever with the second jack.

And we take out the shock absorber bolt.

We release the jack and the lever goes to the very bottom, and we remove the spring.

Well, this tea we have nothing holds the lever except the bolt! For convenience, we remove the muffler from the mounts so that you can move it a little to the side. We climb to the bottom and unscrew the nut.

We fill the WD bolt with a pulley and turn it to separate it from the metal sleeve.To my delight, he easily went to scroll. Again, we climb under the bottom and knock out the bolts with a slight movement of the guide and hammer.

To his delight, he went quite easily. (The fact is that when replacing the bearings on the passenger side, this bolt had to be cut with a grinder)

We jack up the lever and take out the bolt, pull the bolt towards ourselves with one hand and scroll with the ratchet with the other I think you can figure it out as I did alone and could not take a picture of the process

And finally, our lever is separated from the car.

We take out the old insides, wipe the lever clean.

Well, we have done the disassembly!

Now we install the plastic sleeve.

Gently pull out the bearing race to the side

and press the outer ring of the bearing into the seat of the lever.

Lubricate with grease (personally, I drive grease into a syringe and grease from a syringe)

Press the inner cage onto a metal sleeve and insert it all into the lever.

And we cover all this with a boot with a metal washer.

The second side is assembled in the same way!
Well, that's almost all our lever is assembled, it remains to put it back! I will tell you to put it on one at once is very problematic, but armed with patience and with the same second jack, put the lever back!
Lever installation sequence:
1. Put the lever back and clamp it with a bolt.
2. Install the spring back (For convenience, you can use the ties, if they are not there, you can put a little pushing like that)
3. Jack up the lever and fasten the shock absorber.
4. We fasten the rod to the lever and the brake pipe mount, which also holds the parking brake cable
5. We screw back the ABS sensor and the brake pipe (We ask someone in my version from my wife: *) to help bleed the brakes)
6. We hang back the muffler.

7. Put the wheel back and lower the car from the jack.
8. We are glad of ourselves! : *)

Well, friends, as you can see, there is nothing wrong with that! And all this can be done absolutely alone.
Why did I do it all myself:
1. As one friend of mine used to say to me: Seryoga, do you want it to be good? Do it yourself!
2. Wash it is stupid to pay for work more than the cost of the spare part itself. If someone has already changed at the service station, he knows how it costs a lot + not everyone takes on this work!

Video (click to play).

Also, when the last time I changed the right side of the bearings, the bearings of the rear hub on both sides got under replacement. I will not write because there is nothing interesting and complicated because they change with the hub and for this you just need to unscrew the hub nut (the longer you will unscrew the wheel and jack the car than change the hub)

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