Do-it-yourself Volkswagen T4 steering rack repair

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The fourth generation (T4) of the most popular pickups and vans Transporter (produced since 1990) is fundamentally different from the previous rear-engined carriage models. VW Transporter T4 is front-wheel drive, and on request they are equipped with a Syncro all-wheel drive transmission with viscous coupling, developed and manufactured by Austrian Steyr-Daimler-Push. The package includes power steering, full power accessories, Climatronik installation with separate air flow control, etc.

The rack is a mechanism that redistributes impulses from the steering wheel to the wheels. The reaction of the wheels to the movement of the driver depends on it. There are many signs of a steering rack failure, and the most common are hydraulic fluid leaks, knocking, and hard steering to one or both sides. These reasons indicate a serious malfunction of the steering mechanism, which is directly responsible for safety. Therefore, the repair of the Volkswagen Transporter steering rack must be carried out in a timely manner.

Necessary repairs are also evidenced by the fact that oil appears under the car, steering becomes difficult, extraneous sounds from the power steering pump appear. Each malfunction entails repair of a different level of complexity. Repair of the steering rack of a volkswagen t4 van should be carried out by professionals.

So, let's start the inspection:

After installing the car on the lift, you can see that oil is leaking from the hydraulic system, the steering rack is leaking.

The steering rack shaft is damaged by corrosion, as a result of which the sealing lip of the oil seals is torn. Since the fluid in the steering rack is under pressure reaching 120 (!) Atmospheres, it is immediately squeezed out through worn oil seals. In addition, the steering wheel of the car rotates to the right with more force than to the left. This is a sign of wear on the timing gear.

To eliminate the listed malfunctions, it is necessary to remove the subframe, disconnect the high and low pressure pipes, as well as the steering shaft and steering tips.

Only then can the rail be removed from the vehicle.

Then the rail is disassembled. All worn parts and all seals, including oil seals, teflon and rubber rings, bushings, bearings, are replaced with new original ones.

In addition, we are restoring the distributor body, which has grooves. We also restore the surface of the secondary shaft from rust.

Body, input and output shaft before repair:

Then we assemble the rail, adjust it using the recommendations and standards of the manufacturer and set the steering effort. Lubricate the gear pair.

We check the rail on the bench under pressure, which is 15% higher than the nominal one.

Installing tie rods and new anthers.

The rail is restored. After that, the rail is installed on the car.

After pumping the power steering system, the power steering system is flushed from the wear debris of the pump and power steering hoses, the car is checked in operation on the go, a control inspection is carried out. The hydraulic booster fluid leak has been eliminated, the rack is in good order and the car is ready for operation.

We guarantee the result. You will pay only after your problem is solved. The warranty applies to all our work for a period of 1 YEAR and without any mileage limitation. Therefore, you risk nothing.

Looking to solve your steering problems?

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Sanya TK "11.11.11, 20:23 T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

By the will of fate, a simple rail NOT HYDRA fell into my playful little hands. from T-4
at the first attempt to fold the nuts did not work and had to be perverted.
of consumables and spare parts there was only one bushing. but this, as it turned out, was not enough.
The coveted 8-edge is hidden under the drive shaft oil seal and you need to get to it, pull out the boot-seal.
it turned out to be possible to do this by drilling a hole next to the seat, then I was able to pick the oil seal from the side, otherwise the edges would be damaged.

the key is old. the one that was used when disassembling the T-3 rail universal for disassembling and removing the racks of the VAZ 2108

Two bushings, new on the left, old on the right.
markings on the antennae. on the old 2 on the new 4 correspond to the thickness of the sleeve.
I don’t remember in mm, it’s the same, after the decimal point the new thickness. 4 mm for the old maximum. 2 is minimal. 0

everything was in grease, so I left it.

from the nuances:
1. Unlike the T-3, the clamping sleeve, or whatever it is in the profile is triangular, and not round, as on the T-3, because of this, it was not possible to pull out the rail itself without unscrewing the plug from the clamping side.
2. the unscrewing force was about 30-40 kg, I had to drill a hole along the thread, otherwise I crumpled the edges on the first try. later, under a force of about 30-40 kg (my 95 kg by weight, the key was clamped with a gas wrench, with which the plugs on cast-iron batteries were torn off with a handle about 0.5 meters and I almost hung on this key) while the nut went only after tapping with a hammer ...
knocked on the end of the key. so that it does not jump out of the edges.

I heard that the nuts are unscrewed without problems.
I don’t know, maybe only the rake was after the St.
the rail is assembled on a sealant, it will not unscrew, the tightness is not broken.

Dmitri P » 12.11.11, 01:34

smotr »13.11.11, 01:00 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Andrey Chernov "06/12/14, 07:08 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Sanya TK "06/24/14, 17:15 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

The bushing was sold with the rail.

You can use from 2108-2109 just take 2 bushings and cut in one sector to complete it to a full cylinder.

Taiga »05/06/15, 21:19 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Andrew the Great "06/29/16, 00:21 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

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In good working order, the steering rack guides the car on the set course. The driver turns the steering wheel. This force is transmitted through the rack to the wheels, which drive the car in the right direction.

Ideally, there is natural wear and tear of parts: rubbing mechanisms, elements made of rubber and plastic. But in reality, it does not do without influence:

• Broken roads;
• Independent attempts to troubleshoot a malfunction;
• Negligent repair of the front suspension.

The steering rack is directly connected to the suspension. What breaks the suspension also affects the steering rack:

• Sharp start with the steering wheel turned all the way and emergency braking;
• Overcoming road obstacles at high speed;
• Sudden temperature changes;
• Not adjusted wheel alignment.

The boot is just a rubber boot that protects the joints from dirt and water. If it is installed incorrectly, twisted, frayed or torn, this becomes the main cause of damage. In addition to installing a new boot, it will be necessary to replace the oil seals and O-rings, as well as clean the stem.

Of course, the driver will notice that the car is behaving differently than before. Namely:

1. After completing the maneuver, the steering wheel does not return to its original position, a backlash appears. Most often this is due to the breakage of the cross. But only diagnostics will tell for sure.
2. "Bites" the steering wheel, as if something prevents it from rotating.The system may be airy.
3. Steering wheel jolts, runout.
4. Leakage of hydraulic fluid indicates an urgent replacement of oil seals, O-rings and bushings.
5. The appearance of extraneous sounds: knocking, crunching.

When you go to the workshop and report the symptoms of a malfunction, the mechanics will carry out a diagnosis before repairing the T4 steering rack. Indeed, in addition to obvious problems, there may be hidden breakdowns.

First, the test takes place on a special stand under a pressure of 160 atm. In this way, all oil leaks are identified.

Then the rail is inspected visually. They remove, disassemble and clean its elements.

Only after carrying out these procedures can you identify all the malfunctions and eliminate them.

After repairs have been made to the front suspension and the T4 rack in particular, inspect all anthers for yourself. Listen to the turns of the steering wheel. Pay attention to its position when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. After a long stay, turn the steering wheel to the right, then to the left until it stops - there should be no extraneous sounds or additional effort.

The steering rack for the Volkswagen T4 can be repaired. It is collapsible. There are always spare parts, a repair kit and, of course, the T4 steering rack itself, it is not difficult to buy. When disassembling, be sure to change:

• Seals for gear shaft, piston rod, connecting pipes, pressure mechanism and power steering pump;
• Rod and pinion shaft oil seals.

This is the simplest repair of the steering rack. Transporter T4 is preventive.

If a breakdown of an element is detected, then it is either repaired (if possible), or it is replaced with a new one. The most common faults:

• Corrosion of the shaft (its working part) - because of this malfunction, the oil seals suffer;
• Corrosion of the shaft teeth;
• Corrosion of the screw;
• Central tooth wear;
• Distributor crankcase worn.

Original ZF steering racks are installed on Volkswagen T4 cars. This is a reliable manufacturer. However, the original slats have their own drawback. As you can see from the list, it is rust. She begins to "eat" the details at the slightest ingress of moisture into the system. For this reason, a periodic check of the condition of the anthers is a must!

The rails of the Koyo and SMI companies, which were installed on the Volkswagen T4 earlier, are less susceptible to corrosion, but they often wear out the distribution crankcase (and this is the main structural detail). There is a backlash and "biting" of the steering wheel.

To require a complete replacement of the steering rack, you need to work hard. For example: corrode all metal elements, damage the pump and damage the shaft teeth. The new original steering rack is an expensive pleasure.

After removal and installation, the steering rack must be adjusted and the wheel alignment is done.

When there is a play in the steering wheel or a knock, motorists recommend to "tighten" the rail on their own. In some cases, the symptoms disappear. But for how long? Not to reveal the true cause of the malfunction, but simply to adjust - this, of course, can be done independently by reading the Volkswagen Transporter instruction manual, repairing the steering rack will still be more reliable. But the question always remains: why is the car really poorly obedient to control?

Carry out the diagnostics yourself: remove the rail, disassemble it, referring to the instructions, determine the malfunctions (and some can only be noticed by a master with experience), then assemble and adjust everything - it is long, difficult, hazardous. "Pull up", or rather "adjust", the steering rack is necessary when it is fully functional. That is, after renovation work.

The one who invented this needs to hammer a nail in the head.
(Bullet, film "DMB")

No sooner had I had time to enjoy the Transporter with a working gearbox, as a nuisance again. I recalled the leak of oil from the power steering circuit, which manifested itself back in December. More precisely, a leak from the steering rack.And after the transportation of bricks (6-7 flights with a load of 1200 kg with a passport carrying capacity of 765 kg), oil generally flowed like a river. In addition, something rumbled in the front suspension.

There are no options, you need to remove the rail. Memories of hemorrhoids with an omega steering gear did not inspire at all. But nothing can be done.

This time, everything took place in a more civilized environment. That is, not outdoors on a cold April night, but on a warm sunny June day in a garage full of tools and warm water for washing hands.
How wheels, brake discs and calipers are removed, I think, there is no need to tell. Although, the calipers can be mentioned. They are bolted to the steering knuckles with hexagonal bolts 21. And screwed so well that even a standard chrome vanadium head from a set of tools (Practa) could not stand it. And, although a sliding cylinder with a slightly reinforced head with a bolt coped with it, I still preferred to get a more impressive tool. Reinforced 21 head (black) with thick walls and a 3/4 ″ square, and to it - a long “poker” with a hinge at the end cost 38 euros.
- Such a tool is taken to work on the railway. And you. what? - the sales assistant refused to believe that I was going to repair a B-category car with THIS.
I must say that this tool without any problems “defeated” all the necessary bolts, and there were a lot of them. Almost the entire front suspension of the Transporter is assembled on hexagon bolts by 21.

Then the entire exhaust pipe was removed, the steering tips were disconnected from the steering knuckles, the shock absorbers were removed, the anti-roll bar was disconnected from the suspension arms, the steering shaft and hydraulic pipes were disconnected from the steering rack, then the bolts of the rack to the subframe were unscrewed. It remains to remove the rail. And here is the first riddle. The rail is threaded with its ends into such narrow windows of the stretcher. Moreover, she "lives" here not alone, but in the vicinity of the stabilizer.

The brackets for attaching the stabilizer to the subframe also had to be removed, leaving this large “poker” to dangle freely, because it is impossible to pull it out without removing the rail.
Having twisted the rail this way and that for a while, I pulled it out.

I didn't get inside the reiki, I preferred to give it to people who make money on it and who thoroughly know the structure of the reiki for restoration. There was neither time nor desire to pick it up on my own.
I started to repair the suspension. I decided - since the front end is already half disassembled - it is necessary to change all consumables for preventive purposes. That is, 8 silent blocks, 4 ball joints, 2 steering tip anthers (the tips themselves were replaced less than a year ago, but the rubber has already cracked on one boot), 2 corrugated covers and 4 rubber bushings for attaching the steering rack.
To replace the upper arm bushings, the subframe must be removed. To remove the subframe, the torsion bars must be disconnected from the upper arms. I had to suffer with their sour bolts. The lower ones are clearly visible in the upper part of the steering rack window (in the first photo), the upper ones. are located in one of the most inaccessible places of the car. Their heads are turned back, and behind, almost immediately behind the subframe, there is a fuel tank. I had to solve the second riddle - what configuration the tool should be so that the knob for breaking the bolt or the ratchet for subsequent unscrewing would be exactly between the stretcher and the tank.
Won. He took off the subframe, and the levers from it.

Riddle number three - top ball joints. How to remove them from the levers? I did not find the spring wire staples right away - they were reliably hidden under a layer of road dirt that had crammed into the grooves.
The stripper, even in the most “powerful” version, could not move the supports.

But the sledgehammer coped with the task with a bang - undocking occurred already on the second blow.

But the dismantling of the silent blocks went like clockwork (with a shudder I remember BMW silent blocks, which even a two-ton press could not master.).

In the same way, he pulled out the rubber mounts from the already repaired steering rack. Only the puller had to be made asymmetrical.

Having replaced everything successfully, I installed a stretcher on the car. I install the rail.
Later, for the sake of interest, I searched several forums on this topic. It’s interesting how the people cope with this task.
Everyone has their own recipe. Someone, before removing, twists the steering wheel all the way to one side or the other, someone removes the steering tips, someone does some magical manipulations with the anti-roll bar. But I did not find a clear process for maneuvering the reiki in a tight space. “Somehow like this, or like that, in general, poked back and forth, and it is not clear how she fell into place. ”- something like this. In this case, someone tortures the rail for eight hours, someone for two days.
The whole process, together with a photo session and constant washing of hands, took me 4 hours. I give here the procedure for installing the rail, maybe again it will come in handy for someone. The removal process, in principle, is the reverse of the installation, just the washed rail and stretcher look better, and it is more pleasant to work with them))).

1. We take in our hands a serviceable and washed rail, we are located with it under the car behind the front axle, approximately under the fuel tank. We place the rail so that its gearbox is located to the right along the direction of the machine. In general, how it should stand, so we have it. There is no need to “twist the steering wheel all the way”, the “steering wheel” of the rack is in the “straight” position. It is also not necessary to remove the steering tips.
I draw your attention to the fact that I have removed the exhaust pipe - this gives a little more room for maneuver.
We turn the rail upside down so that the splined shaft looks down. From under the middle of the car, we insert the left end of the rail into the window of the stretcher, which is left in the direction of the car, and push it there as far as possible. We first move the stabilizer to the left so that its bends do not interfere with the advance of the rail.

2. Now the right steering tip can be tucked into the right window of the subframe - there is just enough room for it.

3. If you have removed the exhaust pipe - it's time to put it back (which I did not do).

4. The rail, which remains inverted, is shifted to the center of the car (view from the left wheel arch).

5. We unfold the rail to the working position (put it “on its feet”). We also move the stabilizer to the middle of the car.

6. We fix the stabilizer in the working position (view from the arch of the right wheel).

7. Bolt the rail to the subframe. The most problematic according to the reviews of members of the forum is the left front bolt. It is located in a narrow place, almost close to the checkpoint body. It's not easy to get close to it with your hand, and even more so with a key. Sort of.

In fact, there are two whole ways to crawl up to him!
First, I assembled just such a structure from two sets of extension cords and a gimbal.

... and twisted the bolt from above, from under the hood.

Then I found a more convenient and “forceful” way. Head, short extension and ratchet. The ratchet is located above the steering rack, its handle extends into the space behind the rack (in the direction of the car). Twisting is quite convenient.

8. We connect the tubes of the hydraulic system to the rail, connect the steering shaft with a coupling to the splined shaft of the rail.

9. The steering tips are fastened to the steering knuckles of the front wheels.

Next, I installed shock absorbers, brake discs, calipers. It remains to put the wheels on - and you can move off the overpass. Yes, just a little - put a muffler.
What was the depth of my disappointment when it turned out that the muffler did not fit! And hinders him. steering rack.
For about ten minutes no work was carried out in the garage, only from under the car in all directions swearing flew away. Well, then - what to do! - took up the keys again. He removed the shock absorbers, steering tips from the steering knuckles, hydraulic pipes and the steering shaft from the rack, unscrewed the bolts securing the rack and stabilizer to the subframe. He moved the rail to the side, stuck in the exhaust pipe, then put everything together in the reverse order.It took about two hours (one more time - and you can open your car service).

A few words about the muffler itself. Rather, about the exhaust pipe. Unlike most other machines, in this very system, the Transporter does not have a bellows - a flexible stainless steel coupling that breaks the rigid connection of the muffler with the engine. Instead of a bellows, there is a kind of ball joint that performs the same functions. Its halves are connected with spring brackets.

So that's it. To disassemble it, I disassembled it, but there was no need to think about tightening the rigid brackets in the narrow engine compartment among the hoses and tubes. Maybe there is some kind of special device for this, but not in my garage. Therefore, it was necessary to remove the mating part of this hinge together with the cast-iron pipe, which is fastened with five bolts to the turbocharger housing.
In the “fresh air,” the brackets were pulled with an ordinary screwdriver. And then I inserted all this assembly into place from below from under the car, pushing the steering rack aside.

VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS CLUB

Message Zant » 13.06.2012, 22:18:16 #46

Message Fakir » 29.06.2012, 11:12:32 #47

Come. We have tovarisch for 2 thousand will go over, put their oil seals. Sand if necessary. And even for a little bit he will go over the tips. They will walk better than new ones, personally checked.

Message eury68 » 18.09.2012, 15:59:39 #49

Message Gosha77 » 09.08.2013, 10:23:04 #52

Message Fakir » 20.08.2013, 00:46:41 #53

Message Michael929 » 24.08.2013, 00:04:59 #54

Good day!
Tell me what the problem might be, the gur fluid changed on the exhaust and noticed that when the wheels were hanging and the engine was running, when the steering wheel was turned, small jolts (pulsations) were felt on the steering wheel, on the front end that was not hung and did not feel this on the go, in the extreme positions of the steering wheel there is a hum that dies?

Added later (Sat Aug 24, 2013 1:04):

What, really, no one had this and no one knows what the problem is?

Message Lehman » 24.08.2013, 09:46:23 #55

Message Fakir » 21.09.2013, 13:54:52 #56

Message tentop » 28.04.2016, 22:33:10 #57

Message yuri » 03.10.2017, 19:38:02 #59

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
• power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• spool mechanism.

Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the lower oil seal.
6. Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
7. Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
8. Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
9. Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the enclosure.
3. Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. Place the steering rack in the middle position.
7. Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.