Do-it-yourself Volkswagen T4 steering rack repair with a gur

Attention! A network of car services at favorable prices. Wheel alignment check FREE OF CHARGE! No queues! Same day repair!

Download/Print Theme
Download the theme in various formats or view the printable version of the theme.

The fourth generation (T4) of the most popular pickup trucks, Transporter vans (produced since 1990) is fundamentally different from the previous rear-engine wagon models. VW Transporter T4 is front-wheel drive, and on request they are equipped with a Syncro all-wheel drive transmission with a viscous coupling, designed and manufactured by the Austrian Steyr-Daimler-Push. The package includes power steering, full power accessories, Climatronik unit with separate air flow control, etc.

The rack is a mechanism that redistributes impulses from the steering wheel to the wheels. The reaction of the wheels to the movement of the driver depends on it. There are many signs of a failed steering rack, and the most common are hydraulic fluid leaks, knocks, and tight steering in one or both directions. These reasons indicate a serious malfunction of the steering mechanism, which is directly responsible for safety. Therefore, the Volkswagen Transporter steering rack repair must be carried out in a timely manner.

The necessary repair is also evidenced by the fact that oil appears under the car, steering becomes difficult, extraneous sounds appear from the power steering pump. Each malfunction entails repair of a different level of complexity. Repair of the steering rack volkswagen t4 van should be carried out by professionals.

So, let's start the inspection:

After installing the car on a lift, it can be seen that oil is leaking from the hydraulic system, the steering rack is flowing.

The steering rack shaft is damaged by corrosion, as a result of which the working edge of the oil seals is torn. Since the fluid in the steering rack is under pressure, reaching 120 (!) Atmospheres, it is immediately squeezed out through worn seals. In addition, the steering wheel of the car turns to the right with more effort than to the left. This is a sign of wear on the timing gear.

To eliminate the listed malfunctions, it is necessary to remove the subframe, disconnect the high and low pressure pipes, as well as the steering shaft and steering tips.

Only then can the rail be removed from the car.

Then the rail is disassembled. We replace all worn parts and all seals, including oil seals, Teflon and rubber rings, bushings, bearings with new original ones.

In addition, we restore the distributor housing, which has grooves. We also restore the surface of the secondary shaft from rust.

Housing, primary and secondary shaft before repair:

Then we assemble the rail, adjust it using the recommendations and standards of the manufacturer and set the force on the steering wheel. Lubricate the gear pair.

We check the rail on the stand under pressure, which is 15% higher than the nominal one.

We install steering rods and new anthers.

The rack has been restored. After that, the rail is installed on the car.

After pumping the hydraulic booster system, the power steering system is washed from the wear products of the pump and hydraulic booster hoses, the car is checked in operation on the go, and a control inspection is carried out. The hydraulic booster fluid leak has been fixed, the rack is in good condition and the car is ready for operation.

We guarantee results. You pay only after your problem is solved. The warranty covers all our work for a period of 1 YEAR and unlimited mileage. Therefore, you risk nothing.

Do you want to solve steering problems?

Call and sign up for diagnostics by phone:

8 (4832) 59 — 06 — 20

Current time: 19.10.18, 11:28

Sanya TZ » 11/11/11 8:23 PM T4: Steering rack bush replacement without power steering. Photo report

By the will of fate, a simple NOT HYDRA rake fell into my playful little hands. from T-4
at the first attempt to turn the nuts did not work and had to be perverted.
of consumables and spare parts was only one sleeve. and this, as it turned out, was not enough.
The treasured 8 facet is hidden under the input shaft seal and you need to get to it, pull out the dust seal.
it turned out to be possible to do this by drilling a hole next to the seat, then I was able to pick up the stuffing box from the side, otherwise the edges would be damaged.

old key. the one that was used when disassembling the T-3 rail, universal for disassembling and removing the VAZ 2108 racks

Two bushings, new on the left, old on the right.
mustache markings. on the old 2 on the new 4 correspond to the thickness of the sleeve.
I don’t remember in mm, it’s the same there, after the decimal point the new thickness. 4 mm for the old maximum. 2 minimum . 0

Everything was lubricated, so I left it.

from the nuances:
1. Unlike the T-3, the clamping sleeve, or whatever it is in the profile, is triangular, and not round, as on the T-3, because of this, it was not possible to pull out the rail itself without unscrewing the plug from the clamping side.
2. the unscrewing force was about 30-40 kg, I had to drill a hole along the thread, otherwise I crumpled the edges on the first try. later, under a force of about 30-40 kg (my 95 kg in weight, the key was clamped with a gas key. With which I tore off the plugs on cast-iron batteries with a handle of about 0.5 meters and I almost hung on this key), while the nut went only after tapping with a hammer .
knocked on the end of the key. so that he does not jump out of the faces.

I heard that the nuts are loosened without problems.
I don’t know, maybe only the rake was after the St. Petersburg salt and 3.14, to be honest, I don’t need anything.
the rail is assembled on a sealant, it will not unscrew, the tightness is not broken.

Dmitry P » 12.11.11, 01:34

lookr » 13.11.11, 01:00 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Andrey Chernov » 06/12/14, 07:08 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Sanya TZ » 06/24/14, 17:15 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

The bushing was sold along with the rack.

You can use from 2108-2109 just take 2 bushings and cut out in one sector to complete to a full cylinder.

Taiga » 05/06/15, 21:19 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Andrew the Great » 06/29/16, 00:21 Re: T4: Replacing the steering rack bushing without power steering. Photo report

Users browsing this forum: no registered users and guests: 0

In good condition, the steering rack directs the car on a given course. The driver turns the steering wheel. This force is transmitted through the rail to the wheels, which drive the car in the right direction.

Ideally, natural wear of parts occurs: rubbing mechanisms, rubber and plastic elements. But in reality, this is not without influence:

• broken roads;
• Independent attempts to troubleshoot;
• Careless repair of the front suspension.

The steering rack is directly connected to the suspension. What breaks the suspension also affects the steering rack:

• A sharp start with the steering wheel turned all the way and emergency braking;
• Overcoming road obstacles at high speed;
• Sudden temperature changes;
• Unadjusted wheel alignment.

The boot is just a rubber cover that protects the connections from dirt and water. If it is installed incorrectly, twisted, frayed or torn, this becomes the main cause of failure. In addition to installing a new boot, it will be necessary to replace the seals and o-rings, as well as clean the stem.

Of course, the driver will notice that the car behaves differently than before. Namely:

1. After the maneuver is completed, the steering wheel does not return to its original position, play appears. Most often this is due to the breakage of the cross. But only diagnostics will tell for sure.
2. "Bite" the steering wheel, as if something is preventing it from rotating.Perhaps the system is airborne.
3. Shocks in the steering wheel, beating.
4. Leakage of hydraulic fluid indicates an urgent replacement of oil seals, o-rings and bushings.
5. The appearance of extraneous sounds: knocking, crunching.

When you come to the workshop and report signs of a problem, the mechanics will diagnose it before repairing the T4 steering rack. After all, in addition to obvious problems, there may be hidden breakdowns.

First, the test takes place on a special stand under a pressure of 160 atm. In this way, all places of oil leakage are detected.

Then the rail is visually inspected. Remove, disassemble and clean its elements.

Only after carrying out these procedures can all faults be identified and eliminated.

After the repair of the front suspension and the T4 rail in particular, inspect all the anthers yourself. Listen to the turns of the steering wheel. Pay attention to its position when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. After a long stop, turn the steering wheel to the right, then to the left until it stops - there should be no extraneous sounds or additional effort.

The steering rack on the Volkswagen T4 can be repaired. She is collapsible. There are always spare parts, a repair kit and of course the T4 steering rack itself, it’s not difficult to buy. When disassembling, be sure to change:

• Seals for the gear shaft, rod piston, connecting tubes, clamping mechanism and hydraulic booster pump;
• Rod and pinion shaft seals.

This is the easiest repair of the steering rack Transporter T4 - preventive.

If a breakdown of an element is detected, then it is either repaired (if possible) or replaced with a new one. The most common faults:

• Corrosion of the shaft (its working part) - oil seals suffer due to this malfunction;
• Corrosion of the shaft teeth;
• Screw corrosion;
• Wear of the central tooth;
• Deterioration of the distributor housing.

Volkswagen T4 cars are equipped with original ZF steering racks. This is a reliable manufacturer. However, the original rails have their own drawback. As you can see from the list, this is rust. It begins to “eat up” parts at the slightest ingress of moisture into the system. For this reason, a periodic check of the condition of the anthers is a must!

The rails of the Koyo and SMI companies, which were installed on the Volkswagen T4 earlier, are less susceptible to corrosion, but the distribution crankcase wears out more often (and this is the main structural part). There is a backlash and "biting" of the steering wheel.

To require a complete replacement of the steering rack - you need to work hard. For example: to achieve corrosion of all metal elements, failure of the pump and damage to the teeth of the shaft. A new original steering rack is an expensive pleasure.

After removal and installation, the steering rack must be adjusted and wheel alignment is done.

When there is steering wheel play or knocking, motorists recommend to “tighten” the rail on their own. In some cases, the symptoms disappear. But for how long? Do not identify the true cause of the malfunction, but simply adjust - this, of course, can be done independently by reading the Volkswagen Transporter instruction manual, steering rack repair will still be more reliable. But the question always remains: why is the car really badly obeying control?

Carry out diagnostics yourself: remove the rail, disassemble it, referring to the instructions, identify malfunctions (and only an experienced master can notice some), then assemble and adjust everything - long, difficult, and dangerous. “Pull up”, or rather “adjust”, the steering rack is necessary when it is fully functional. That is after renovations.

Whoever came up with this needs a nail in the head.
(Bullet, film “DMB”)

Before I had time to enjoy the Transporter with a working gearbox, as a nuisance again. I reminded myself of an oil leak from the power steering circuit, which manifested itself back in December. More precisely, a leak from the steering rack.And after the transportation of bricks (6-7 flights with a load of 1200 kg with a passport load capacity of 765 kg), the oil generally flowed like a river. In addition, something rumbled in the front suspension.

There are no options, you need to remove the rail. Memories of hemorrhoids with Omega steering gear did not at all inspire this business. But nothing can be done.

This time everything happened in more civilized conditions. That is, not in the open air on a cold April night, but on a warm sunny June day in a garage full of tools and with warm water for washing hands.
How the wheels, brake discs and calipers are removed, I think, there is no need to tell. Although, the calipers can be mentioned. They are bolted to the steering knuckles with 21 hex bolts. And they are bolted so well that even the standard chrome-vanadium head from the tool kit (Practa) could not stand it. And, although a sliding balloon with a slightly reinforced head coped with the bolt, I still preferred to get a more impressive tool. A reinforced head for 21 (black) with thick walls and a 3/4 ″ square, and to it a long “poker” with a hinge at the end, cost 38 euros.
- Such a tool is taken to work on the railway. And you. what? - The sales assistant refused to believe that THAT I was going to repair a B-category car.
I must say that this tool “defeated” all the necessary bolts without any problems, and there were a lot of them. Almost the entire front suspension of the Conveyor is assembled on 21 hex bolts.

Next, the entire exhaust pipe was removed, the steering tips were disconnected from the steering knuckles, the shock absorbers were removed, the anti-roll bar was disconnected from the suspension arms, the steering shaft and hydraulic system pipes were disconnected from the steering rack, then the bolts securing the rail to the subframe were unscrewed. It remains to remove the rail. And here is the first mystery. The rail is threaded with its extremities into such narrow windows of the stretcher. Moreover, she “lives” here not alone, but in the vicinity of the stabilizer.

The brackets for attaching the stabilizer to the subframe also had to be removed, leaving this large “poker” to hang freely, because it is impossible to pull it out without removing the rail.
After twisting the rail this way and that for a while, I nevertheless pulled it out.

I didn’t get inside the rail, I preferred to give it for restoration to people who earn money on this and who thoroughly know the device of the rail. I didn't have the time or inclination to tinker with it myself.
Engaged in suspension repair. I decided - since the front end is already half dismantled - it is necessary to change all consumables for preventive purposes. That is, 8 silent blocks, 4 ball bearings, 2 anthers for steering tips (the tips themselves were replaced less than a year ago, but the rubber has already cracked on one boot), 2 corrugated covers and 4 rubber bushings for mounting the steering rack.
To replace the silent blocks of the upper arms, you need to remove the subframe. To remove the subframe, you need to disconnect the torsion bars from the upper arms. Here they had to suffer with their soured bolts. The lower ones are clearly visible in the upper part of the window for the steering rack (in the first photo), the upper ones. located in one of the most inaccessible places in the car. Their heads are turned back, and behind, almost immediately behind the subframe, there is a fuel tank. I had to solve the second riddle - what configuration the tool should be in order for the wrench to break the bolt or the ratchet for subsequent unscrewing to be exactly between the subframe and the tank.
Won. Removed the subframe, and the levers from it.

Riddle number three - upper ball joints. How to take them out of the levers? I did not immediately find the spring wire staples - they were securely hidden under a layer of road dirt that had accumulated in the grooves.
The puller, even in the most “powerful” version, could not move the supports.

But the sledgehammer coped with the task with a bang - undocking occurred already on the second blow.

But the dismantling of silent blocks went like clockwork (I remember with a shudder the silent blocks of BMW, which even a two-ton press could not master.).

In the same way, he pulled out the rubber mounts from the already repaired steering rack. Only the puller had to be made asymmetrical.

Having successfully replaced everything, I installed a subframe on the car. I install the rail.
Later, for the sake of interest, I went through several forums on this topic. It is interesting how people cope with this task.
Everyone has their own recipe. Before removing, someone unscrews the steering wheel all the way in one direction or another, someone removes the steering tips, someone does some magic manipulations with the anti-roll bar. But I did not find a clear process for maneuvering the rail in a tight space from anyone. “Somehow like this, or like this, in general, poked back and forth, and it is not clear how she got into place. ”- about the same alignment. At the same time, someone torments the rail for eight hours, someone for two days.
The whole process, together with a photo session and constant washing of hands, took me 4 hours. I give here the order of installation of the rail, maybe again it will come in handy for someone. The removal process is, in principle, the reverse of the installation, just the washed rail and subframe look better, and it’s more pleasant to work with them))).

1. We pick up a serviceable and washed rail, we are located with it under the car behind the front axle, approximately under the fuel tank. We position the rail so that its gearbox is located on the right side of the machine. In general, as it should stand, we have it. “Unscrew the steering wheel all the way” is not necessary, the “steering wheel” of the rack is in the “straight” position. You don't even need to remove the steering knuckles.
I draw your attention to the fact that I have removed the exhaust system pipe - this gives a little more room for maneuver.
We unfold the rail “upside down” so that the splined shaft looks down. From under the middle of the car, we insert the left end of the rail into the window of the subframe, which is left in the direction of the car, and push it there until it stops, as far as possible. We pre-shift the stabilizer to the left so that its bends do not interfere with advancing the rail.

2. Now the right steering tip can be tucked into the right window of the subframe - it just has enough space for this.

3. If you have removed the exhaust pipe - it's time to put it back (which I did not).

4. We shift the rail, which remains upside down, to the center of the car (view from the left wheel arch).

5. We turn the rail into the working position (we put it “on our feet”). We also shift the stabilizer to the middle of the car.

6. We fix the stabilizer in the working position (view from the arch of the right wheel).

7. We fasten the rail with bolts to the subframe. The most problematic according to the reviews of members of the forum is the left front bolt. It is located in a narrow place, almost close to the gearbox housing. It is not easy to get close to him with a hand, and even more so with a key. Sort of.

In fact, there are two ways to crawl up to it!
First, I assembled just such a design from two sets of extensions and a universal joint.

. and twisted the bolt from above, from under the hood.

Then I found a more convenient and “powerful” way. Socket, short extension and ratchet. The ratchet is located above the steering rack, its handle goes into the space behind the rack (in the direction of the car). It's comfortable enough to spin.

8. We connect the hydraulic system tubes to the rail, connect the steering shaft with a coupling to the splined shaft of the rail.

9. We fasten the steering tips to the steering knuckles of the front wheels.

Next, I installed shock absorbers, brake discs, calipers. It remains to put the wheels - and you can move off the flyover. Yes, just a little more - put a silencer.
What was the depth of my disappointment when it turned out that the silencer does not climb! And hinders him. steering rack.
For about ten minutes no work was carried out in the garage, only matyuki scattered from under the car in all directions. Well, then - what to do! – took up the keys again. He removed the shock absorbers, steering tips from the steering knuckles, hydraulic pipes and steering shaft from the rack, unscrewed the bolts securing the rack and stabilizer to the subframe. I moved the rail to the side, put the exhaust pipe in, then put everything back together in reverse order.It took about two hours for everything (one more time - and you can open your own car service).

A few words about the muffler itself. Or rather, about the exhaust pipe. Unlike most other machines, the Transporter does not have a bellows in this very system - a flexible stainless steel coupling that breaks the muffler's rigid connection with the engine. Instead of a bellows, there is a kind of ball joint that performs the same functions. Its halves are connected by spring brackets.

So. I took it apart to disassemble, but there was nothing to think about pulling hard brackets in a narrow engine compartment among hoses and tubes. Maybe there is some special device for this, but not in my garage. Therefore, the counterpart of this hinge had to be removed, along with a cast-iron pipe, fastened with five bolts to the turbocharger housing.
In the “fresh air”, the brackets were pulled with an ordinary screwdriver. And then I put this entire assembly in place from under the car, pushing the steering rack to the side.

VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS' CLUB

Message Zant » 13.06.2012, 22:18:16 #46

Message Fakir » 29.06.2012, 11:12:32 #47

Come. Our comrade will sort out for 2 thousand, put his oil seals. Sanding if necessary. And for a little bit, he will sort out the tips. They will walk better than new ones, personally verified.

Message egory68 » 18.09.2012, 15:59:39 #49

Message Gosha77 » 09.08.2013, 10:23:04 #52

Message Fakir » 20.08.2013, 00:46:41 #53

Message Michael929 » 24.08.2013, 00:04:59 #54

Good day!
Tell me what the problem could be, I changed the gur liquid on the exhaust and noticed that with the wheels hanging and the engine running, when the steering wheel was turned, there were small jolts (pulsation) on the steering wheel, on the front end that was not hanging and I didn’t feel it on the go, in the extreme positions of the steering wheel there is a hum that dies?

Later added (Sat Aug 24, 2013 1:04):

What, really no one had this and no one knows what the problem is?

Message Lehman » 24.08.2013, 09:46:23 #55

Message Fakir » 21.09.2013, 13:54:52 #56

Message tentop » 28.04.2016, 22:33:10 #57

Message yuri » 03.10.2017, 19:38:02 #59

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.

All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
• the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• golden mechanism.

Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the bottom seal.
6. By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
7. Turn the retaining plug and pull out the retaining ring by the wire that will show when scrolling.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
9. Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all the parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
5. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position.
7. Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.

Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.