DIY golf 3 steering rack repair

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The reliability and controllability of the car is a guarantee of safety for road users. Only a serviceable steering mechanism ensures reliable and safe control of any type of transport.

The steering rack is a mechanism that transfers the direction of movement to the wheels by turning the steering wheel, consists of three main parts:

• toothed shaft
• bearing bush
• spool mechanism.

When operating a car, some elements of this mechanism wear out in the first place, it can be:

• Hydro-barrier rings
• Oil seals (rubber seals)
• Support sleeves

These parts are included in the VW steering rack repair kit.

Although the appearance of the parts of mechanisms with and without power steering, as well as different Volkswagen models, is different, their purpose and sequence will be the same both when repairing a Volkswagen Passat steering rack, and when repairing a Volkswagen Golf steering rack, that is, the damaged elements are replaced.

The driver should pay attention to the operation of this unit, and at the first signs of a breakdown, diagnose and repair or adjust the Volkswagen steering rack.

• Steering knock and vibration - when driving on an uneven surface, the driver feels a blow to the steering wheel. This is a sign of wear on the shaft support bushings and the teeth of the gear pair.
• Backlash - occurs when the distributor rod or worm gear teeth are worn.
• Tight rotation, noise and grinding when turning the steering wheel - signs of rack corrosion or mechanical damage.
• Leaking oil from the reservoir - indicates the wear of the anthers - protective rubber gaskets. Without protection from dust, water and friction, pivot joints wear out, and repairing a Volkswagen T4 steering rack is much more expensive.
• Darkening of the fluid, the presence of debris in the power steering reservoir.

Overloading the car, turning the steering wheel abruptly, hitting the wheels in pits and potholes lead to damage to the chassis of the car. From shock and vibration, there is a violation of the integrity and configuration of parts. The fastenings of the elements are weakened, the tightness of the system is broken.

Twisting the steering wheel to extreme positions at high speed increases the critical loads on the control system and leads to its rapid wear and urgent repair of the Volkswagen Bor steering rack. The use of low-quality oils and spare parts accelerates the development of the resource of parts.

Critical wear of parts occurs:

• If there is insufficient lubrication in the system, due to friction, the teeth are worn out and do not provide proper adhesion during operation.
• In case of violation of its tightness. In this case, dirt, dust gets into the mechanism, which accelerates the erasure of parts, and water, which causes corrosion of metal elements.
• With timely repair of the Volkswagen T5 steering rack, it is possible to preserve the hydraulic mechanisms that have not failed, thereby avoiding unnecessary costs.

Accurate diagnostics of malfunctions is carried out on special equipment in a car service.

After an external examination, the following operations are performed:

• Dismantling the mechanism
• Inspection and troubleshooting of parts
• Disassembly of the unit, primary cleaning of parts from dirt
• Assessment of the condition of the body, shaft, oil seals, O-rings.

When diagnosing, they check the integrity of parts, the presence of corrosion and deformation of the shaft, wear of teeth and bearings.

The video shows how qualified specialists carry out diagnostics and repairs:

During operation, the control mechanism of the car can loosen from vibration and other loads. The fastenings of the parts are loosened, this leads to disruptions in its operation and can cause more serious damage. In this case, there is a backlash and vibration of the steering wheel, the smoothness of rotation is lost.

To eliminate this problem, the Volkswagen steering rack is adjusted at stations specializing in chassis maintenance. For this, the mechanism design provides external adjusting screw.

This operation is usually performed by two people. To access the adjusting screw, the car is lifted onto an overpass or placed over a pit. The position of the wheels is strictly straight, the car must be securely fixed.

Using a special hexagon, the adjusting screw is tightened or, on the contrary, slightly loosened, checking the result by turning the steering wheel. The backlash should not be more than 10 degrees. After adjustment on the pit, check the operation of the unit in motion at low speed. If the adjustment does not work, you need to check the serviceability of the mechanism.

Repair of the Volkswagen Polo steering rack should be carried out in a special room with equipment and tools that will allow you to work quickly, efficiently and without the risk of damaging other parts of the car and serviceable parts.

1. The unit removed from the car is placed in a workbench.
2. Unscrew the rods, remove the spool plug.
3. Unscrew the spool nut and clamp nut.
4. The spring and stem clamp are removed.
5. The relative position of the valve and the housing is noted.
6. Remove the retaining ring, take out the distributor.
7. Remove the stem and back support from the body.
8. The left stem oil seal is removed with a special tool.
9. Parts are thoroughly cleaned of wear products, oil and dirt using detergent solutions.
10. Degraded parts are replaced with new ones.
11. The stock is ground on a lathe.
12. The assembly process begins with pressing the left stem gland into the rack housing with a special tool.
13. A special grease is applied to the comb of the stem and the teeth of the distributor before installation.
14. The prepared parts are installed in the steering gear housing.
15. The bearing is pressed in next, after it the oil seal, put on the retaining ring.
16. The rod clamp, the spring is installed, everything is tightened with the clamp nut.
17. The spool nut is tightened, the spool plug filled with grease is screwed into place.
18. Put the seal on the back support.
19. The oil seal is pressed into the rear support, after which it is installed on the steering rack.
20. The position of the rear support is fixed with a retaining ring.
21. The quality of work and the tightness of the assembled unit are checked at the stand.

With slight corrosion, the shaft of the mechanism is restored by the method of spraying with chromium, followed by grinding.
In case of significant damage and wear of the gears of the toothed shaft and housing, a complete replacement of the Volkswagen steering rack is performed.

Worn out parts must be changed, as well as rubber gaskets and oil seals, after which the mechanism is assembled and installed on the car.

After assembling the unit, fresh process fluids are poured into a serviceable system, the system is pumped.

Hello! I decided to change the steering rack on my car, the old one was no longer good for anything and made a short report on replacing the steering rack on the flyover (garage with a pit).

We drive into the overpass, loosen the wheel bolts, remove the terminals from the battery.

Further in the cabin, in the area of ​​the pedals, unscrew the fastening of the steering shaft and cardan. You may first have to remove the boot inside the passenger compartment.

Unscrew 2 nuts by 13 and take out the bar.

Unscrew the cover of the power steering fluid reservoir

Under the car, unscrew the hose to the power steering pump and drain the liquid.

We jack up the car, install it on the “goat”, remove the wheels.

We unscrew the nuts 19 from the steering tips. We remove the tips using a puller or hammer blows on the part of the steering knuckle.

Be careful not to damage the anthers of the steering tips and threads (screw the nut a couple of turns).

Next, unscrew the backstage mount to the steering rack body (3 bolts by 13),

one in front (can be unscrewed from the top through the cardan or from the bottom with a key)

Unscrew the steering rack hoses with a 18 wrench.

We unscrew the fastening of the rail housing to the subframe. Nuts and bolts (do not try to remove from subframe) 13.

Then we remove the bracket that holds the steering rack from the passenger side.

Remove the boot on top of the steering rack so as not to break it when lowering the subframe.

We loosen the bolts of the subframe in front (I have 18, there may be others)

and behind (those that are closer to the rail by 18, which are further by 16; there may be other sizes)

Make sure that everything attached to the rail is disconnected.

We unscrew the previously loosened bolts of the subframe, remembering which one came from.

Using a jack, carefully lower the subframe by about 5 centimeters, this will allow you to remove the steering rack. Be extremely careful.

We unscrew and take out the bolt by 13. Remove the cardan up from the steering rack (it is easier to remove the rack this way). We leave the cardan in the boot.

Next, remove the rack housing from the driver's side from the subframe bolts. We take out the steering rack towards the rear beam (when removing the rack it will be approximately parallel to the rear beam).

We install the working steering rack in place of the faulty one. It is convenient to use zip ties to fix the air tube between the anthers.

We immediately put on the cardan (we previously left it in the boot) on the rail splines, insert and tighten the bolt. Cardan shafts on a rail with power steering are of 2 types, for a large or small slot.

Raise the steering rack by placing its body on the rack mounting bolts in the subframe.
We put on the steering shaft and cardan mount in the cabin, put on the boot.

We connect the hoses for the fluid supply / drainage to the rail.

Next, we direct the steering rack from the driver's side onto the bolts of the rack in the subframe, put on the bracket and the elastic band under it, carefully lift the subframe, tighten the bolts of the subframe to the body.

We tighten the subframe bolts only after we put the car on the wheels.

I recommend that you lubricate the bolts with grease before tightening them, this will allow you to unscrew them the next time you repair them without much effort.

We tighten the subframe bolts securing the steering rack housing.

We fasten the steering tips.

We put the car on the wheels and tighten the subframe bolts.

We put on the place of the previously removed hose for supplying fluid to the gur pump.

still in the process of writing
This report consists of materials made iva99380798(for which many thanks to him.) Well, and my ad-libbing.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and instructions on the borrowed photos, because info taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. = 1 # post2068729

Background.
For some time now, I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. Moreover, it does not depend on a straight line or with inverted wheels. And recently, the flow of the reiki itself was added

Story.

Since walking is not quite hunting, I began to look for the rail in an inoperative state. The guys loaded up exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out for a long time which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its affiliation to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is how she looks on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I'll try .
Having fished out the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here is such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to shoot a reiki.

First, we climb under the torpedo from the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's feet.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rack (a bolt with an eccentric and a wrench for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the work in the salon.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the swivel levers.

Then, from the driver's side, remove the protective casing / boot

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, underneath is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the form of a 12-sided head, for which a 10-sided head with 12 sides was purchased. Immediately I unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I got under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Then he unscrewed the slurry supply to the rail, the bolt 22 + 2 pucks (we don’t lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the slurry return - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Here everything is released, we take out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I didn’t take off the wheels, I just jacked it up on this side)
And now this is a miracle in hand

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they were twisted.
Next, remove the anthers ... It is better to prepare the place in advance, because a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the steering rods, I had one on the verge of death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I would not think.

1.Next, we screw it on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tighten the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we try to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. Remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Then, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/ URL] and take out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm, I changed:
1 gland and one o-ring on the bushing with the bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
on the shaft itself there are 4 white little rings and under them 4 black ones. We lubricate everything with liquid and put it aside until assembly.

Move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We need to remove the retaining ring (it is already taken off a little higher in the photo). We put the rail on the “priest” and pulling / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem (1), the bushing (2), and the shaft itself.

We take the stock. On it we change the O-ring and the oil seal
Next, on the bushing, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We make his troubleshooting. My shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on the one hand.
Change 1 white sealing ring on the shaft. Now we put all this aside until assembly and grab the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft) and take the head on 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and, with a light blow, knock out the oil seal and the bushing, which are approximately in the middle of the body. These are they:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.

From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I picked them up and went to tempt fate once again.
He took off the rail again, disassembled it, wiped everything. He took off the oil seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters were considered:
1. The thickness of the gland is the same, the only difference is in the installation of the nylon ring

2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. Appearance of the working surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. It is apparently designed to work under high pressure.
I made better pictures:
The first photo shows the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th oil seal

Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155

it's time to dive under the front suspension thought to get off with a little blood. but that doesn't happen. Having compiled the troubleshooting guide, I brought out the following: for replacement:

2. all silent blocks of levers

8. well, the main culprit of the "rake"

gidracha was not at the very purchase of a car, crappy kaneshno without a gur wheel will not turn worse than with a fur rail. Well, I'll start. I took off the Bilstein rack from my friend in 1993, the whole swap gur. I bought a new one all the rest. the pumps on the mountings are the same in appearance, but a different pulley departure (clutch) is larger at the vent, so we look at the photo

I had to remove the coupling by making a puller in the form of a plastic sheet of 10mm steel, having outlined the holes, I drilled holes as on the coupling itself to tighten this thing with 8 bolts

I stupidly wanted to swap the couplings, but it didn’t work, there was a big difference in the thickness of the pump shafts. on the vent it is thinner. Therefore, I took the coupling from the vent and cut off the lower collar by under the face to make the overhang I needed by first measuring the old pump and the overhang from it.

this shoulder needs to be cut off

the pulleys are also different. the fan pulleys are larger, so we put our old one.

now the rail has figured out with the pump, it is completely suitable for technical specifications, but the difference is only in the splined part of the cardan's landing, so we take the whole cardan from the vent.

when removing his rail, he lowered the subframe completely by 7 cm and pulled out the “attention” from the left side !! be careful with the subframe, the motor stays on only one support, make sure with some kind of pads.

this is a new rake just for example.

all the parts were washed. the goura lines were also installed from the vents, cleaning and painting them. they were fresher than mine and more practical to install.

do not forget to lubricate the spline

jacked with a regular jack

goura oil first bought facebook, but after reading the reviews with sadness, poshol bought the original when filling the oil, the wheels should be hung out, the tank used its standard one. at the same time, you need to turn the steering wheel so that the slurry would fill the entire space in the system

900g is poured into the system, the index of oil is G004000M2 (600. r). Now I am very grateful to all of you for your attention !!

Post has been edited by Sergey. n: 20 March 2016 - 10:01 AM

Everything is well described, but there are a couple of questions:

As I understand it, initially you did not have a gur, and everything was going on your knees, similar to the spare parts removed?

What did you have to buy during installation?

bought only one anther rail, it was gur that was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

bought only one anther rail, it was gur that was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

ok, otherwise I just have a car without a gur, and there is an option to take the gur from the venta, but I don’t know if I can remake it myself without a sample

If there is nothing more to add, then you can send to Fak

bought only one anther rail, it was gur that was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

ok, otherwise I just have a car without a gur, and there is an option to take the gur from the venta, but I don’t know if I can remake it myself without a sample

do it, I made the gap by putting a piece of paper from the support bearing box, it is a 2mm thick coupling (the pulley was heated with a lamp and put on a hot one because in a vice he was afraid to ruin the pump) the main thing when heating is not to overdo it and immediately pour water so as not to ruin the oil seal in the pump! everything else is done by including logic.

I did the same the other day, just put the gur from the trade wind, and there are no mounts for the backstage 020 of the box, I think that this is significant when choosing a rail. And I also forgot to lubricate the slots, (((are they not lubricated with gur liquid?

no kaneshno rail spool is insulated with seals. otherwise it will flow!

corrected the article can be sent to the FAK

We remove the steering gear (see. "Removing the steering gear" ).

Clamp the steering box in a vice with soft metal jaw pads. We remove both protective covers of the rail (see. "Replacing the cover of the rail" )

With a chisel we bend the edges of the lock washer of the left steering rod.

Using the “30” key, turn off the left rod, holding the rail by the flats with the “22” key.

Remove the left steering rod and lock washer.

Similarly, we remove the right steering rod (we hold the rail from turning with a 22 key on the flats at its left end).

Using the "41" head, unscrew the lock nut of the stop nut.

Using a square “9”, unscrew the rail stop nut.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry off the rubber protective cap.

With a spanner wrench "24" we unscrew the bearing nut.

... and remove it from the shank of the gear.

We take out the gear assembly with a ball bearing from the crankcase.

Unclench the retaining ring with pliers and remove it.

Considering that the bearing is removed only for replacement.

... the gear can be knocked out of the bearing by placing it on the vise jaws without pinching the gear.

Remove the bearing from the gear shank.

We take out the rack from the steering gear housing.

Squeezing the retaining ring of the plastic bushing of the rack with pliers, we remove it from the groove of the steering gear housing.

With a rod 450-500 mm long, we knock out the rail bushing from the crankcase.

... and take it out together with the rubber ring.

We remove the needle bearing of the gear wheel only for replacement. To extract it.

... with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, we drill three holes in the steering box housing opposite the bearing installation site.

... and through these holes we knock out the bearing, striking the thin rod.

We take out the needle bearing.

The holes in the wall of the steering box housing can be sealed with a cold welding agent.

We wash and inspect the parts of the steering mechanism, damaged ones - we replace them, while the plastic sleeve with a rubber ring must be replaced. The ball and needle bearings must rotate without seizing, and the protective sleeves and cap must be free from cracks or breaks. Backlash and traces of corrosion in the ball joints of the steering rods are not allowed.

... with a soft metal drift, press in a new needle bearing.

Press the sleeve with the rubber ring through a suitable length of pipe.

We support the gear on the vise jaw pads made of soft metal or a wooden block.

Press a ball bearing onto the shank of the gear with a suitable piece of pipe, striking only on its inner ring. Having liberally lubricated the rack teeth, gears and bearings with PIOL-1 grease, we assemble the assembly in the reverse order. Before installing the protective cap on the gear shank.

... drive the pinion bearing nut at four points.

... and fill the cavity above the nut with UNIOL-1 grease. Before installing on the car, adjust the steering mechanism (see. "Adjusting the steering gear" ).

Disconnect the steering shaft mountings, drain the fluid from the system, remove the wheels, unscrew the hoses for the drainage and fluid supply of the steering rack, remove the boot, loosen the subframe bolts at the front and rear, change the rail, tighten everything back.

Bravo! Almost so! But if you don't take off the muffler pants, the whole replacement with a description in 9 lines will take 4 hours of torment!

You drive into the overpass, loosen the wheel bolts, remove the terminals from the battery.

Further in the cabin, in the area of ​​the pedals, unscrew the fastening of the steering shaft and cardan. You may first have to remove the boot inside the passenger compartment.

Unscrew 2 nuts by 13 and take out the bar. Unscrew the cover of the power steering fluid reservoir, Under the car, unscrew the hose to the power steering pump and drain the fluid.
We jack up the car, install it on the “goat”, remove the wheels.

We unscrew the nuts 19 from the steering tips. We remove the tips using a puller or hammer blows on the part of the steering knuckle.

Be careful not to damage the anthers of the steering tips and threads (screw the nut a couple of turns).
Next, unscrew the backstage mount to the steering rack body (3 bolts by 13),

one in front (can be unscrewed from above through the cardan or from below with a key) Unscrew the steering rack hoses with a key for 18.

Hose for liquid outlet
Fluid hose
,
We jack up the stretcher.

We unscrew the fastening of the rail housing to the subframe. Nuts and bolts (do not try to remove them from the subframe) at 13, After we remove the bracket that holds the steering rack from the passenger side, remove the boot on top of the steering rack so as not to break it when lowering the subframe.
We loosen the subframe bolts in the front (I have 18, there may be others) and at the back (those that are closer to the rail by 18, which are further by 16; there may be other sizes). Make sure that everything that is attached to the rail is disconnected.

We unscrew the previously loosened bolts of the subframe, remembering which one came from.

Using a jack, carefully lower the subframe by about 5 centimeters, this will allow you to remove the steering rack. Be extremely careful.

We unscrew and take out the bolt by 13. Remove the cardan up from the steering rack (it is easier to remove the rack this way). We leave the cardan in the boot.
Next, remove the rack housing from the driver's side from the subframe bolts. We take out the steering rack towards the rear beam (when removing the rack it will be approximately parallel to the rear beam).

We install the working steering rack in place of the faulty one. It is convenient to use zip ties to fix the air tube between the anthers.
We immediately put on the cardan (we previously left it in the boot) on the rail splines, insert and tighten the bolt. Cardan shafts on a rail with power steering are of 2 types, for a large or small slot.

Raise the steering rack by placing its body on the rack mounting bolts in the subframe.
We put on the steering shaft and cardan mount in the cabin, put on the boot.

We connect the hoses for the fluid supply / drainage to the rail.

Next, we direct the steering rack from the driver's side onto the bolts of the rack in the subframe, put on the bracket and the elastic band under it, carefully lift the subframe, tighten the bolts of the subframe to the body.

We tighten the subframe bolts only after we put the car on the wheels.

I recommend that you lubricate the bolts with grease before tightening them, this will allow you to unscrew them the next time you repair them without much effort.
We tighten the subframe bolts securing the steering rack housing.

We fasten the steering tips.

We put the car on the wheels and tighten the subframe bolts.

We put on the place of the previously removed hose for supplying fluid to the gur pump.

Pour liquid into the tank.

We expel air from the system.

The level must be between MAX and MIN. I didn't seem to forget to mention anything =)

VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS CLUB

Message Sanya TK » 17.03.2009, 22:20:47 #1

Message Teshka78 » 17.03.2009, 22:38:47 #2

VW Multivan 1987 1.9TDI (was)
VW Multivan 2001 2.5 TDI

Message Barmaley- » 18.03.2009, 06:58:34 #3

Message Sanya TK » 18.03.2009, 13:50:02 #4

Message Teshka78 » 18.03.2009, 19:32:47 #5

VW Multivan 1987 1.9TDI (was)
VW Multivan 2001 2.5 TDI

Message BILLY » 18.03.2009, 20:18:55 #6

Message hmuriy » 18.03.2009, 20:24:32 #7

Thank you for the link, I looked, but the store said on the T-3 of 1988 (by reference from 1991) about 12 tr will cost me a rake, so I will restore it. [/ Quote]

Damn, you need to destroy such a store

I just asked for a start, I didn't look too much, I was offered Hans Priceovskaya for more than 7. And then they told me that there is cheaper, but doubted if they were restored? So I think we should just search.
And I envy BELARUS prices for WHITE.

We will overcome the difficulties that we have been creating for ourselves lately.
Vladimir Putin

IMHO, People who often give advice never follow strangers.

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
• power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• spool mechanism.

Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the lower oil seal.
6. Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
7. Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
8. Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
9. Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. Place the steering rack in the middle position.
7. Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.