Do-it-yourself golf 3 steering rack repair

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Reliability and controllability of the car is a guarantee of safety for road users. Only a serviceable steering mechanism provides reliable and safe control of any type of transport.

The steering rack is a mechanism that transmits the direction of movement to the wheels by turning the steering wheel, consists of three main parts:

• toothed shaft
• support bushing
• golden mechanism.

During the operation of the car, some elements of this mechanism wear out in the first place, these can be:

• Hydro barrier rings
• Oil seals (rubber seals)
• Support bushings

These parts are included in the Volkswagen steering rack repair kit.

Although the appearance of parts of mechanisms with and without power steering, as well as different Volkswagen models, is different, their purpose and sequence will be the same both when repairing a Volkswagen Passat steering rack and when repairing a Volkswagen Golf steering rack, that is, damaged elements are replaced.

The driver should pay attention to the operation of this unit, and at the first sign of its breakdown, diagnose and repair or adjust the Volkswagen steering rack.

• Knocking and vibration of the steering wheel – when driving on an uneven surface, the driver feels blows to the steering wheel. This is a sign of wear on the bearing bushings of the shafts and the teeth of the gear pair.
• backlash - occurs when the distributor rod or the teeth of the worm pair are worn.
• Stiff rotation, noise and grinding when turning the steering wheel - signs of rail corrosion or mechanical damage.
• Oil leakage from the tank - indicates the wear of anthers - protective rubber gaskets. Without protection against dust, water and friction, the swivel joints wear out, and repairing the Volkswagen T4 steering rack is much more expensive.
• Darkening of the liquid, the presence of debris in the power steering reservoir.

Overloading the car, sharp turning the steering wheel, getting the wheels into pits and ruts lead to breakdowns of the chassis of the car. From shock and vibration, there is a violation of the integrity and configuration of parts. The fastenings of the elements are weakened, the tightness of the system is broken.

Unscrewing the steering wheel to extreme positions at high speed increases the critical loads on the control system and leads to its rapid wear and urgent repair of the Volkswagen Bora steering rack. The use of low-quality oils and spare parts accelerates the development of the resource of parts.

Critical wear of parts occurs:

• With insufficient lubrication in the system, due to friction, the teeth are erased and do not provide proper grip during operation.
• In case of violation of its tightness. In this case, dirt, dust gets into the mechanism, which accelerates the erasure of parts, and water, which causes corrosion of metal elements.
• With the timely repair of the Volkswagen T5 steering rack, it is possible to preserve the hydraulic mechanisms that have not failed, thereby avoiding unnecessary costs.

Accurate fault diagnosis is carried out on special equipment in a car service.

After an external examination, the following operations are performed:

• Dismantling the mechanism
• Inspection and troubleshooting of parts
• Assembly disassembly, primary cleaning of parts from dirt
• Assessment of the condition of the housing, shaft, seals, sealing rings.

During diagnostics, the integrity of parts, the presence of corrosion and deformation of the shaft, the wear of teeth and bearings are checked.

On the video you can see how qualified specialists carry out diagnostics and repairs:

During operation, the vehicle control mechanism may become loose from vibration and other loads. The fastenings of parts are weakened, this leads to disruption of its operation and can cause more serious damage. In this case, backlash and vibration of the steering wheel appear, the smoothness of rotation is lost.

To eliminate this problem, the Volkswagen steering rack is adjusted at stations specializing in running gear maintenance. To do this, the design of the mechanism provides external adjusting screw.

This operation is usually performed by two people. To access the adjusting screw, the car is lifted onto a flyover or placed over a pit. The position of the wheels is strictly straight, the car must be securely fastened.

Using a special hexagon, the adjusting screw is tightened or, on the contrary, slightly loosened, checking the result by turning the steering wheel. The backlash should not be more than 10 degrees. After adjusting in the pit, the operation of the assembly is checked in motion at low speed. If the adjustment did not work, you need to check the serviceability of the mechanism.

Volkswagen Polo steering rack repair should be carried out in a special room with equipment and tools that will allow you to work quickly, efficiently and without the risk of damaging other vehicle components and serviceable parts.

1. The assembly removed from the car is placed in a workbench.
2. Unscrew the rods, remove the spool cap.
3. Unscrew the spool nut and clamp nut.
4. Remove the spring and stem clamp.
5. Note the relative position of the distributor and housing.
6. Remove the retaining ring, take out the distributor.
7. Remove the stem and rear support from the housing.
8. Remove the left stem seal with a special tool.
9. Details are thoroughly cleaned of wear products, oil and dirt using detergent solutions.
10. Damaged parts are replaced with new ones.
11. The rod is ground on a lathe.
12. The assembly process begins with pressing the left stem seal into the rack housing with a special tool.
13. A special lubricant is applied to the rod comb and distributor teeth before installation.
14. Prepared parts are installed in the steering gear housing.
15. Next, the bearing is pressed in, after it the oil seal, put on the retaining ring.
16. Install the stem clamp, spring, tighten everything with the clamp nut.
17. The spool nut is tightened, the spool plug filled with grease is screwed into place.
18. Put the seal on the back support.
19. The oil seal is pressed into the rear support, after which it is installed on the steering rack.
20. The position of the rear support is fixed with a retaining ring.
21. The quality of work and tightness of the assembled unit is checked at the stand.

The mechanism shaft with slight corrosion is restored by chromium spraying followed by grinding.
In case of significant damage and wear to the gears of the toothed shaft and housing, the Volkswagen steering rack is completely replaced.

Worn parts must be changed, as well as rubber gaskets and oil seals, after which the mechanism is assembled and installed on the car.

After assembling the assembly, fresh process fluids are poured into a working system, the system is pumped.

Hello! I decided to change the steering rack on my car, the old one was no longer good for anything and made a brief report on replacing the steering rack on the overpass (garage with a pit).

We drive onto the overpass, loosen the wheel bolts, remove the terminals from the battery.

Next, in the cabin, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pedals, we unscrew the mount of the steering shaft and cardan. You may first have to remove the boot inside the cabin.

We unscrew 2 nuts by 13 and pull out the bar.

Unscrew the power steering fluid reservoir cap

Under the car, unscrew the hose to the power steering pump and drain the liquid.

We jack up the car, install it on the "goat", remove the wheels.

We unscrew the nuts by 19 from the steering tips. We remove the tips with a puller or blows with a hammer on the part of the steering knuckle.

Be careful not to damage the anthers of the steering tips and threads (screw the nut a couple of turns).

Next, unscrew the backstage mount to the steering rack housing (3 bolts for 13),

one in front (can be unscrewed from above through the cardan shaft or from below with a key)

We unscrew the steering rack hoses with a key for 18.

We unscrew the fastening of the rail housing to the subframe. Nuts and bolts (do not try to remove from the subframe) at 13.

After we remove the bracket from the passenger side that holds the steering rack.

We remove the boot from above the steering rack so as not to tear it when lowering the subframe.

We loosen the bolts of the subframe in front (I have 18, there may be others)

and behind (those that are closer to the rail by 18, which are further by 16; there may be other sizes)

We make sure that everything that is attached to the rail is disconnected.

We unscrew the previously loosened bolts of the subframe, remembering which one from where.

Using a jack, carefully lower the subframe by about 5 centimeters, this will allow you to remove the steering rack. Be extremely careful.

We unscrew and pull out the bolt by 13. Remove the cardan from the steering rack up (it's easier to remove the rack). We leave the cardan in the boot.

Next, remove the rack housing from the driver's side from the subframe bolts. We take out the steering rack towards the rear beam (when removed, the rack will be approximately parallel to the rear beam).

We install a working steering rack in place of the faulty one. It is convenient to use ties to fix the air tube between the anthers.

We immediately put on the cardan (previously left it in the boot) on the slots of the rail, insert and tighten the bolt. There are 2 types of cardan shafts on the rail with power steering, for large or small slots.

Raise the steering rack by placing its body on the rack mounting bolts in the subframe.
We put on the steering shaft and cardan mount in the cabin, put on the boot.

We attach the fluid supply / drainage hoses to the rail.

Next, we direct the steering rack from the driver's side to the rail mounting bolts in the subframe, put on the bracket and the rubber band under it, carefully raise the subframe, bait the subframe mounting bolts to the body.

We tighten the subframe bolts only after we put the car on wheels.

Before tightening the bolts, I recommend lubricating them with grease, this will allow you to unscrew them during the next repair without making much effort.

We tighten the bolts of the subframe, fixing the steering rack housing.

Screw on the steering knuckles.

We put the car on wheels and tighten the bolts of the subframe.

We put in place the previously removed fluid supply hose to the power steering pump.

still in the process of writing
This report is made up of material iva99380798(For what to it many thanks.) Well and the gag.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and indications on the borrowed pictures, because information taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. =1#post2068729

Background.
For some time now I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. At what, it is not dependent on a straight line or with the turned out wheels. And recently a leak of the rail itself has been added

Story.

Since it’s not quite a hunt to walk on foot, I began to look for a rail in a non-working condition. The guys gave me exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its belonging to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is what it looks like on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I will try .
Having found the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here we have such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to remove the slats.

First, we climb under the torpedo on the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's legs.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rail (a bolt with an eccentric and a turnkey nut for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the interior work.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the rotary levers.

Then remove the protective cover / boot from the driver's side

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, under it is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the appearance of a 12-tihedron, for which a head of 10 with 12 faces was bought. Immediately unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I crawled under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Next, I unscrewed the supply of slurry to the rail, the bolt for 22 + 2 washers (do not lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the return flow of the slurry - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Now everything is released, we pull out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I did not remove the wheels, only jacked up on this side)
And here is a miracle in the hands

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they are twisted.
Next, remove the dusters . It is better to prepare the place in advance, because. hedgehog a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the tie rods, I had one near death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I wouldn’t even think about it.

1.Next, we pin on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tightens the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we are trying to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. We remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Next, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/URL] and pull out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm I changed:
1 oil seal and one o-ring on the sleeve with bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
there are 4 white rings on the shaft itself and 4 black ones under them. Lubricate everything with slurry and set aside until assembly.

We move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We will need to remove the retaining ring (a little higher in the photo it has already been removed). We put the rail on the “priest” and dragging / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem ( 1 ), bushing ( 2 ), and the shaft itself.

We take stock. On it we change the sealing ring and the stuffing box
Next, on the sleeve, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We are troubleshooting it. I have a shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on one side.
On the shaft, we change 1 white sealing ring. Now we put all this aside until assembly and take hold of the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft), take the head for 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and with a light blow we knock out the oil seal and bushing, which are located approximately in the middle of the body. Here they are:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put the stuffing box and bushing on the shaft and bushing and insert all this “household” into the body. Then we insert the bushing and stem, and put the retaining ring in place. Then we collect everything else in reverse order.

According to the information that I found, it turns out that not everyone had a smooth overhaul. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals for the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I took them and went to once again tempt fate J .
Removed the rail again, disassembled, wiped everything. I removed the seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters considered:
1. The thickness of the stuffing box is the same, the difference is only in the installation of a nylon ring

2. Installation of a nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. The appearance of the work surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. Apparently it is designed to work under high pressure.
Here are some better pics:
On the first photo is the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th gland

Hence the conclusion that for our rail the gland with the number 140 NOT SUITABLE, seal must be ordered with number 155

it's time to dive under the front suspension thought to get off with a little blood. but that doesn't happen. having compiled a troubleshooting, he brought out the following: for replacement:

2. all silent blocks of levers

8. well, the main culprit is the “rake”

there was no hydra at the very time of buying a car, shitty without a gur you won’t turn the wheels worse than with a fur rail. well, I'll start. I removed Bilstein racks from a 1993 Venta from my friend, the whole swap gur. I bought everything new. the pumps on the fasteners are the same in appearance, but the pulley (coupling) has a different offset (coupling), it is larger for the vent, so we look at the photo

I had to remove the clutch by making a puller in the form of a plate of 10 mm steel, having outlined the holes, I drilled holes, as well as on the clutch itself, to tighten this thing with bolts of 8th

I stupidly wanted to swap the couplings, but it didn’t work out, it’s all about the difference in the thickness of the pump shafts. on the vent, it is thinner. therefore, I took the coupling from the vent and cut off the lower shoulder under the face in order to make the departure necessary for me by first measuring the old pump and the departure from it.

this is the bead that needs to be cut off

the pulleys are also different. The pulley of the vent is larger, so we put our old one.

Now the rail has figured out the pump, it will fully fit in terms of technical characteristics, but the difference is only in the splined part of the cardan seat, so we take the whole cardan from the vent.

when removing his rail, he lowered the subframe completely by 7 cm and pulled out “attention” from the left side !! be careful with the subframe, the motor remains only on one support, insure yourself with some kind of lining.

this is a new rail just for example.

all parts were washed. gur lines also set with vents cleaning and painting them. they were fresher than mine and more practical to install.

do not forget to grease the spline part

jacked with a standard jack

Gura oil was bought at first by febi, but after reading the reviews with sadness, I bought the original when filling the oil, the wheels should be hung out, the reservoir used its regular one.

900g is poured into the system, oil index is G004000M2 (600. r).

This post has been edited by sergey. T: 20 March 2016 – 10:01 AM

Everything is well described, but there are a couple of questions:

As I understand it, you didn’t have a gur initially, and everything was assembled on your knees, similar to the removed spare parts?

What did you have to buy during installation?

bought only one slat boot, gur it was it was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

bought only one slat boot, gur it was it was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

ok, otherwise I just have a car without a gur, and there is an option to take the gur from the vent, but I don’t know if I can redo it myself without a sample

If there is nothing more to add, then you can send it to Fak

bought only one slat boot, gur it was it was not shorter flour with the steering wheel was complete.

ok, otherwise I just have a car without a gur, and there is an option to take the gur from the vent, but I don’t know if I can redo it myself without a sample

make a gap, I made a gap by putting a piece of paper from the support bearing box, it is a 2mm thick coupling (the pulley was heated with a lamp and put it on a hot one because it was afraid to ruin the pump in a vice), the main thing is not to overdo it when heated and immediately pour water so as not to spoil the stuffing box in the pump! everything else is done by turning on the logic.

I did the same the other day, I just put the gur from the trade wind, and there are no fasteners for the backstage 020 of the box, I think that this is significant when choosing a rail. And I also forgot to lubricate the splines, (((are they not lubricated with gur liquid?

No, of course, the spool of the rail is insulated with seals. otherwise it will run!

corrected the article can be sent to the FAK

Remove the steering gear (see "Removing the steering gear" ).

Clamp the steering gear housing in a vise with soft metal jaw pads. We remove both protective covers of the rail (see. "Replacing the rail cover" )

With a chisel, we bend the edges of the lock washer of the left tie rod.

With the “30” key, we turn off the left thrust, holding the rail by the flats with the “22” key.

Remove the left tie rod and lock washer.

Similarly, we remove the right tie rod (we hold the rail from turning with the “22” key by the flats at its left end).

Using the “41” head, unscrew the stop nut locknut.

With a “9” tetrahedron, we unscrew the rail stop nut.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry off the rubber protective cap.

Using a 24mm wrench, unscrew the bearing nut.

. and remove it from the gear shank.

We take out the gear assembly with the ball bearing from the crankcase.

Unclip the retaining ring with tongs and remove it.

Given that the bearing is removed only for replacement.

. the gear can be knocked out of the bearing by placing it on the vise jaws, but without clamping the gear.

Remove the bearing from the gear shaft.

We take out the rack from the crankcase of the steering mechanism.

Squeezing the retaining ring of the plastic sleeve of the rack with tongs, remove it from the groove of the steering gear housing.

With a rod 450-500 mm long, we knock out the rack bushing from the crankcase.

. and take it out together with the rubber ring.

The needle bearing of the gear is removed only for replacement. To extract it.

. with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, we drill three holes in the steering gear housing opposite the bearing installation site.

. and through these holes we knock out the bearing, striking a thin rod.

Take out the needle bearing.

Holes in the wall of the steering gear housing can be plugged with a "cold welding" preparation.

We wash and inspect the parts of the steering mechanism, we replace the damaged parts, while the plastic bushing with a rubber ring must be replaced. The ball and needle bearings must rotate without jamming, and the protective covers and cap must not have cracks or ruptures. Play and traces of corrosion in the ball joints of steering rods are not allowed.

. We press in a new needle bearing with a soft metal drift.

We press the bushing with the rubber ring through a suitable pipe section.

We rest the gear on the lining of the vise jaws made of soft metal or a wooden block.

With a suitable piece of pipe, we press a ball bearing onto the gear shank, striking only on its inner ring. Having generously lubricated the teeth of the rack, gear and bearings with FIOL-1 grease, we assemble the assembly in the reverse order. Before installing the protective cap on the gear shank.

. tighten the gear bearing nut at four points.

. and fill the cavity above the nut with UNIOL-1 grease. Before installation on the car, we adjust the steering mechanism (see. "Steering adjustment" ).

We disconnect the steering shaft mounts, drain the fluid from the system, remove the wheels, unscrew the hoses for draining and supplying the steering rack fluid, remove the boot, loosen the subframe bolts front and rear, change the rail, twist everything back.

Bravo! Almost so! That's just if you do not remove the muffler pants, the entire replacement with a description of 9 lines will take 4 hours of torment!

You drive onto the flyover, loosen the wheel bolts, remove the terminals from the battery.

Next, in the cabin, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pedals, we unscrew the mount of the steering shaft and cardan. You may first have to remove the boot inside the cabin.

We unscrew 2 nuts by 13 and pull out the bar. We unscrew the cover of the power steering fluid reservoir, unscrew the hose to the power steering pump under the car and drain the liquid.
We jack up the car, install it on the "goat", remove the wheels.

We unscrew the nuts by 19 from the steering tips. We remove the tips with a puller or blows with a hammer on the part of the steering knuckle.

Be careful not to damage the anthers of the steering tips and threads (screw the nut a couple of turns).
Next, unscrew the backstage mount to the steering rack housing (3 bolts for 13),

one in front (you can unscrew it from above through the cardan or from below with a key) Unscrew the steering rack hoses with a key for 18.

Fluid outlet hose
Fluid Hose
,
We jack up the subframe.

We unscrew the fastening of the rail housing to the subframe.Nuts and bolts (do not try to remove it from the subframe) by 13, After that we remove the bracket that holds the steering rack from the passenger side. We remove the boot from the top of the steering rack so as not to tear it when lowering the subframe.
We loosen the bolts of the subframe in front (I have 18, there may be others) and behind (those that are closer to the rail by 18, which are further by 16; there may be other sizes) We make sure that everything that is attached to the rail is disconnected.

We unscrew the previously loosened bolts of the subframe, remembering which one from where.

Using a jack, carefully lower the subframe by about 5 centimeters, this will allow you to remove the steering rack. Be extremely careful.

We unscrew and pull out the bolt by 13. Remove the cardan from the steering rack up (it's easier to remove the rack). We leave the cardan in the boot.
Next, remove the rack housing from the driver's side from the subframe bolts. We take out the steering rack towards the rear beam (when removed, the rack will be approximately parallel to the rear beam).

We install a working steering rack in place of the faulty one. It is convenient to use ties to fix the air tube between the anthers.
We immediately put on the cardan (previously left it in the boot) on the slots of the rail, insert and tighten the bolt. There are 2 types of cardan shafts on the rail with power steering, for large or small slots.

Raise the steering rack by placing its body on the rack mounting bolts in the subframe.
We put on the steering shaft and cardan mount in the cabin, put on the boot.

We attach the fluid supply / drainage hoses to the rail.

Next, we direct the steering rack from the driver's side to the rail mounting bolts in the subframe, put on the bracket and the rubber band under it, carefully raise the subframe, bait the subframe mounting bolts to the body.

We tighten the subframe bolts only after we put the car on wheels.

Before tightening the bolts, I recommend lubricating them with grease, this will allow you to unscrew them during the next repair without making much effort.
We tighten the bolts of the subframe, fixing the steering rack housing.

Screw on the steering knuckles.

We put the car on wheels and tighten the bolts of the subframe.

We put in place the previously removed fluid supply hose to the power steering pump.

Pour the liquid into the tank.

We expel air from the system.

The level must be between MAX and MIN. Looks like I forgot to mention something =)

VOLKSWAGEN MINIBUS OWNERS' CLUB

Message Sanya TZ » 17.03.2009, 22:20:47 #1

Message Teshka78 » 17.03.2009, 22:38:47 #2

VW Multivan 1987 1.9TDI(was)
VW Multivan 2001 2.5 TDI

Message Barmaley- » 18.03.2009, 06:58:34 #3

Message Sanya TZ » 18.03.2009, 13:50:02 #4

Message Teshka78 » 18.03.2009, 19:32:47 #5

VW Multivan 1987 1.9TDI(was)
VW Multivan 2001 2.5 TDI

Message BILLY » 18.03.2009, 20:18:55 #6

Message humuriy » 18.03.2009, 20:24:32 #7

Thanks for the link, I looked it up, but the store said on the T-3 of 1988 (linked from 1991) about 12 tr will cost me a rake, so I will restore it. [/ Quote]

Damn, you need to destroy such a store

I just asked offhand, I didn’t really look for it, they offered me Hans Praisovskaya for more than 7. And then they told me that there are cheaper ones, but they doubted if they were restored? So I guess it's just a matter of looking.
And I envy Belarusian prices for WHITE.

We will overcome the difficulties that we create for ourselves in recent times.
Vladimir Putin

IMHO, People who often give advice never follow someone else's.

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.

All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
• the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• golden mechanism.

Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the bottom seal.
6. By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
7. Turn the retaining plug and pull out the retaining ring by the wire that will show when scrolling.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
9. Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all the parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
5. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position.
7. Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.

Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.