DIY steering rack repair Honda Accord 6

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack of a Honda Accord 6 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello to all happy owners of Chords!
I would like to add a little more information on the repair of our painful slats!)))) A lot of things were discussed about this, I also decided to share my experience.
The problem actually was like that of many - this is an annoying knock, first from the right and then to the left. I endured all this until the right oil seal began to sweat. Winter is coming and I decided to fix this problem! I ordered a repair kit on the Internet, a bushing (lock nut), an adjusting sleeve, an upper spool oil seal (it comes with a bearing), a right boot, a week of waiting and everything came. And one more liter of fresh PSF.

From an unusual tool, you will need large keys (32, 40, 46), a mid-square wrench, a denometric wrench (you can do without it), preferably an electric drill and drill (4 or 5 mm), a pipe wrench (17-19), large syringe with a tube (remove liquid from the tank).

Now the whole process is in order:

1.we drive the car onto the overpass (pit), hang the front wheels.

2.We pump out the liquid from the tank

3. We disassemble the top (in the cabin)

just pull the guard towards you, it is held in place by the clips.

4. unscrew the steering column universal joint.

5. Pull the cardan from the slots to the top.
IMPORTANT: When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel.
Since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

6. unscrew the three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

removing this boot is problematic. noise insulation and a rug interfere, the boot is under them. Okay, take it off, put it in its place, that's hemorrhagic. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy. )))

Video (click to play).

it is better to remove the retainer and elastic band. the elastic is displaced to the bottom relative to the shaft.

7. Turn off the steering tips. I didn't have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila. the tip came off. unscrew the nut and that's it. If your finger scrolls, then press the tip from the top with a pry bar and unscrew it to your health!) Unfortunately, I did not take a photo ((

8. unscrew the fastening of the rail itself.
We twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

9. unscrew the three bolts of the heat shield from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart!) You will need such a key.

11. first unscrew the blue bracket bolt, hold the tube, then the rest.

for convenience, you will need such a set with a gimbal.

12. to remove the rail you need to lower the beam. you can replace the stabilizer bushings in one go, and that's what I did.
so we lower the beam:

we lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, leave the right bolt, the beam will hold on it, and unscrew the left one completely and remove the spacer (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

13.remove the rail to the left side

wash it thoroughly with gasoline and carry it to a warm garage))

14.Unscrew the tips you need two keys for 19 and one for 14

remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is not wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit)

15.Unscrew the adjusting sleeve a key 40 and a knob with a middle square.

development of teflon coating to metal

16. unscrew the two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

17.We knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me)

the ring is in the repair kit.

18. then unscrew the guide nut, it is nibbled. I did not drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, do not be afraid to drill))

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it. the rail can be thrown out. Nut under
key for 46

19. then you need to knock out the oil seal that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring from the air and oil that remain behind the outlet fitting.
I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the body as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that a gap appeared between the shaft and the oil seal, the main goal was to release air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

the second oil seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

you need to knock out gently with something softer than steel without damaging the internal working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

we see that there is a washer under the oil seal

21. We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal)

a new washer can be taken from the rem. kit

I pressed the new oil seal with a head of 27 and two extension cords

22. Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, looking like plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring needs to be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can break it, for example, it is a little heated over the carrying lamp.)

that's what happened in the end

23. install the shaft into the housing, before installing, put a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to close the oil seal.
IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the shaft teeth can also damage the oil seal!

24. Press the second oil seal with a new nut.

25. Lubricate the whole thing, I used violet grease, of course you can use lithol, in general, whoever wants anything!))

26. Now we change the oil seal and the spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don't remember exactly which one, and at the beginning I pressed the oil seal and then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. We lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

we put all this on the rail (do not forget to change the ring it is in the repair kit)

27. put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything)

How I regulated:
I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it by one turn and wrapped it again until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is needed so that the spring falls into place) If in the mind, then you need a denmetric key and do it all with some effort. I didn't have the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you roam the steering wheel) on the muffled engine is a thing of the past!)))

28. We screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo)

29.The steering rods to be screwed on, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings

put new retaining rings (mustache in the shaft) they are in the repair kit

31.fasten the steering tips (forward bend)

Everything. now we put on the car. I think it's not worth describing the procedure!)))

here are a few photos of the bushings that I replaced in one. I put myself a smaller diameter polyurethane bushings instead of 26.5 mm and 25.4 mm because the stabilizer itself was worn.

Good luck to everyone in the repair of your favorite car))).

We drive the car onto an overpass (pit), hang up the front wheels.

We pump out the liquid from the tank.

Just pull the guard towards you, it is held in place by the clips.

We unscrew the steering column cardan.

We pull the cardan from the slots to the top. IMPORTANT: When the gimbal is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one is turning the steering wheel, since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

We unscrew three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

Removing this boot is problematic ... noise insulation and a rug interfere with the boot, the boot is under them ... Okay, remove it, put it in its place, this is hemorrhagic. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy.

It is better to remove the retainer and the elastic band ... the elastic is displaced to the bottom relative to the shaft.

We unscrew the steering tips.I didn't have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila ... the tip came off. unscrew the nut and that's it. If the finger scrolls, then press the tip from the top with a pry bar and unscrew it to your health!

We unscrew the fastening of the rail itself. Twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

Unscrew the three heat shield bolts from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart! You will need such a key.

First we unscrew the blue bracket bolt, hold the tube, then the rest.

For convenience, you will need such a set with a gimbal.

To remove the rail, you need to lower the beam. You can replace the stabilizer bushings in one go, I did just that and so we lower the beam.

We lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, leave the right bolt, the beam will hold on it, and unscrew the left one completely and remove the spacer (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

We remove the rail to the left.

We wash it thoroughly with gasoline and carry it to a warm garage.

We unscrew the tips, you need two keys for 19 and one for 14.

We remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is not wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit).

we unscrew the adjusting sleeve a 40 key and a knob with a middle square.

Development of Teflon coating to metal.

We unscrew two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

We knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me).

The ring is in the repair kit.

Next, unscrew the guide nut, it is nibble. I did not drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, do not be afraid to drill)

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out. Connecting nut for 46.

Next, you need to knock out the gland that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil of those that remained behind the outlet fitting. I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the housing as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that a gap appeared between the shaft and the oil seal, the main goal was to release the air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

The second oil seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

You need to knock out gently with something softer than steel without damaging the inner working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

We see that there is a washer under the oil seal.

We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal).

A new washer can be taken from the repair kit.

I pressed the new oil seal with a head of 27 and two extension cords.

Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, looking like plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring needs to be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can break it, for example, I heated it a little over carrying lamp.)

Here's what happened in the end.

We install the shaft into the housing, before installing, roll a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to short out the oil seal. IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the shaft teeth can also damage the oil seal!

We crush the second oil seal with a new nut.

Lubricating this whole thing, I used a phyllore lubricant, of course, lithol, in general, whatever you want!

Now we change the oil seal and the spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don't remember exactly which one, and at the beginning I pressed the oil seal and then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. We lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

We put all this on the rail (do not forget to change the ring it is in the repair kit).

We put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything).

How I adjusted: I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it by one turn and turned it back until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is needed so that the spring falls into place) effort ... I didn't find the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you swing the steering wheel) on the muffled engine is a thing of the past!)))

We screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo).

Screw-on tie rods, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings.

We put new retaining rings (with a mustache in the shaft), they are in the repair kit.

We put on the anthers. We tighten the steering tips (bend in front).

Everything… now we put it on the car. I think it's not worth describing the procedure!

I put myself a smaller diameter polyurethane bushings instead of 26.5 mm and 25.4 mm because the stabilizer itself was worn.

The main symptoms that indicate the need to repair the steering rack, first of all, a knock on the left or right side, or simultaneously on both sides (in some cases, a beating in the steering wheel may be felt). This photo report describes in detail how to make with your own hands steering rack repair by car Honda Accord CL. The repair procedure is quite complicated, it can take about a day in time.

Required tools:

Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
Collar with mean square;
Torque wrench;
An electric drill and a drill 4 or 5 mm are desirable;
Pipe wrench (17-19);
Large syringe with a straw;

The original Honda Accord 7 steering rack repair kit has a catalog number 06531SEAE03 and a price tag of about 3500 rubles. The steering rack bushing Accord 7 with the article number 53685-SDA-A01 costs about 500 rubles.

As of prices for the hot summer of 2017 for Moscow and the region.

Required tools:

Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
Collar with mean square;
Torque wrench;
An electric drill and a drill 4 or 5 mm are desirable;
Pipe wrench (17-19);
Large syringe with a straw;

When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel. Since you can break the train under the steering wheel. Also, do not clamp the rail body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out!

Steering rack repair process

Repair of a steering rack Honda Accord. How to remove a knock on the steering rack of a Honda accord 8

Repair of a steering rack Honda SRV

reike are characterized by the appearance of:

liquid leaks in the area of the rail;
backlash in steering;
knocking under the hood;
problems with the steering wheel (becomes "heavy", can jam);
loss of smoothness when turning (turning is carried out in jerks).

The occurrence of such deviations from the norm in the steering system cannot be overlooked. At the same time, there is no way to correctly determine the cause of the appearance of these signs. The point is that steering is a complex mechanism. A malfunction can occur in any of its nodes. In this case, its signs will coincide with the signs of a malfunction in the steering rack.

Timely and high quality

diagnostics of the mechanism will save the owner from many possible troubles. The main ones will be the safety of the car and budget repairs (such as creating an emergency or complicity in an accident, we will not consider, although they cannot be ruled out).

Speaking of diagnostics, it should be noted that it can be carried out only at a specialized service station.

The problem with checking is that there is no way to inspect the rail without special equipment. Only on the diagnostic bench can you determine the true cause of the malfunction. Examination "by eye" or "by ear" can end tragically.

In service, steering rack

checked in several stages:

examination by a master diagnostician;
removal from the car and check at the diagnostic stand;
complete disassembly and troubleshooting of every detail;
check on the diagnostic stand of the repaired rail.

After installation on the vehicle, the entire steering gear is checked again. And only after that the serviceable car is transferred to the owner.

As you can see, the diagnostic process is simple in essence, but complex in execution. In other words, there can be no question of checking the steering rack independently or outside the workshop.

A do-it-yourself steering rack will require replacement immediately. It is simply not possible to carry out such repairs in a garage. The repair algorithm is simple - we find the faulty part, replace it with a new one and assemble the rail. Ready. Yes, for the uninitiated, everything is simple in the intricacies of repair. Without delving into the details of replacing parts, it is enough to say that after assembly, the rail is subject to mandatory diagnostics. It can be performed only on a special diagnostic stand. Thus, the repair without this operation turns into a simple set and connection of new parts.

The consequences of this recovery can be dire. Traffic safety is jeopardized. Having saved a little on repairs, it is possible to lose your car. This is the best case scenario. At worst, health and even life itself.

In a car service, the picture of repair looks completely different. Qualified specialists will assist in the selection of replaceable assemblies or parts. The rail will be thoroughly diagnosed and defective. Not a single detail will be left without attention. In addition, you don't have to run around looking for spare parts yourself. Everything you need for repairs can be purchased here at the service station.

The complexity of restoration is evidenced by the fact that it sometimes takes more than a day to repair the steering rack. And this is for specialists who have at hand all the necessary tools, devices, various stands for setting operating parameters and diagnostics. All these components allow for high-quality repair of a faulty mechanism.

The steering rack is a high-precision yet durable mechanism.Its service life is about 200,000 km of vehicle mileage. It is maintained when the rail is "under supervision", that is, it is serviced in a timely manner. It is enough to leave it unattended, as it will immediately declare its existence.

There are four main malfunctions arising from the operation of the steering rack:

Fluid leaking from reiki. Occurs as a result of a leakage of the sealing gland. The complexity of the repair lies in the complete disassembly of the entire mechanism. Violation of the integrity of the protective covers (anthers), the destruction of the oil seals will necessarily cause.
Backlash in steering. It happens for various reasons. The main one is the natural development of the mating parts of the steering mechanism. The adjustment is carried out by car service specialists.
The occurrence of knocks. In most cases, they are caused by sloppy driving over bumps. As a result of this negligence, the bushings are broken. They need to be changed. The repair is very difficult, checking on a special diagnostic stand after assembly is required.
"Heavy" steering wheel, the appearance of jerks when turning. Possible in case of mechanical damage to the crankcase or rack shaft. Such damage can appear when not careful repair of nearby mechanisms or units. Diagnostics is required.

Our car service repairs steering racks Honda Accord 7. And qualitatively. This is confirmed by numerous positive reviews from our customers. Another confirmation is the warranty for the repairs carried out by us, issued for a period of 6 months.

The service is equipped with modern equipment, stands, fixtures and tools. Masters who have undergone special training are allowed to carry out repairs. Their many years of experience and qualifications are beyond question.

The ongoing promotions and the availability of discounts significantly reduce our low prices.

How often do you hear from hondavods a sad phrase: "my steering rack knocked, I will have to change, probably ... is it expensive?" I always want to gladly answer such questions: “Very expensive!”At the same time, without deceiving the person. Indeed, the steering rack, or steering gear, is a very, very expensive part of a car. It so happened that the price charged by the supplier for this part reached a quarter of the real value of the car on the market. After announcing it to the client, often in his eyes there was a keen desire to do "self-depilation" of different points of the body, and no wonder - for example, for a Honda H-RV, the cost of a steering gear assembly is more than 50,000 rubles with a delivery time of more than a month!And what, then, is our joy when such a question arises? Thinking in a thirst for profit? You are mistaken, dear! Now we will tell you how to get rid of knocking on the Honda steering rack at least on our own, and as a maximum, returning to the service that diagnosed you with the replacement of the steering rack, and triumphantly poking them into this article, indicate the correct course of action. Intrigued? Already good. Let's figure it out then. We will start, as is usual with us, from the very beginning, that is, with the fact that we have a steering rack and where it comes from knock on the steering rack.So, the steering rack, or the correct "power steering gear", is the most important part of the power steering system, the one that helps to rotate the steering wheel with minimal effort. Those who studied at driving schools in Russian cars that are not equipped with a power steering system should remember very well how tight the steering wheel turns in them. The hydraulic booster is designed to facilitate this operation. And the key part of the power steering is the steering rack itself. In fact, the rail is the power steering. Let's take a look at this assembly first.

So, you see a picture from the official catalog. Let's take a look at what is drawn on it. The most interesting elements for us are highlighted in red circles. So let's start at the end. Under the number "14»We see the actual power steering gearbox, it is the steering rack assembly. On each side, steering rods are attached to it (in the figure under the number "1"). Steering tips are attached to the steering rods ("12"), Which are ultimately attached to the wheel. All this simple yet highly effective design allows you to control the steering of your car's wheels.

The diagnosis of knocking should be started with this picture, since the first thing that can knock in this scheme, you already know, is the steering tips and tie rods. If the handpieces are extremely easy to diagnose - as a rule, a failed handpiece has a torn anther, which is why the ball joint of the finger has become unusable, then with traction everything is a little more complicated.

As a rule, the thrust also fails due to a torn anther (in the figure they are shown under the numbers "9" and "10"), But it also happens that the previous owner" killed "the traction, but changed the boot, stuffing it with new grease. As a result, the thrust worked for some time and finally got out of order, starting to knock. In this case, it is a little more difficult to diagnose it than the steering tip; it is necessary to remove the thrust boot and check the thrust itself for backlash in the horizontal plane. If there is a backlash, - hurray, the source of the knock has been found, you can change and collect everything back.

There is one significant drawback in this whole scheme - to miss a knock in the steering rod, or tip, and only non-specialists can recommend replacing the steering rack. As a rule, a good technician "catches" such a breakdown immediately, indicating the need to replace the part. Another thing is the knock inside the reiki itself. Let's take a look at its design together, and figure out what can knock there.

You can see a screenshot from the official Honda catalog showing the parted steering rack. Among all the details in this picture, we are most interested in the number “7″, «10″, and "11". Let's figure out together what is special about them.

You should start with the part number "10“This is the steering rack shaft, a key element of the entire structure. It is by the movement of the shaft inside the rack housing that the wheels are turned, - the working fluid presses on the shaft in the horizontal plane, and it already transfers force to the wheels of the car, by means of rods and tips. The source of knocking inside the reiki is he. But by itself, it cannot knock (on a new car, it doesn’t knock!); Accordingly, there must be other details provoking this sound. And they really are.

Let's look at detail number "7". In different catalogs, due to the difference in translations, this part may be called "steering rack bushing", "steering rack guide", "steering rack guide bush", "steering rack clamping bush". However, no matter how it is called, it has the same meaning and working purpose - to provide a fixed working position of the shaft in a certain plane, preventing it from deviating from it. The sleeve, as it were, half-wraps around the shaft itself, and the inner side, which is responsible for contact with the shaft, is covered with a special material based on fluoroplastic, which ensures minimal friction on contact.

Please note that the bushing itself is not fixed, but on the contrary, it is a movable part (if rigidly fixed, it would quickly deform the shaft), pushed forward by a powerful spring, regulated by a special bolt with a locknut (in the figure, details No.5«,»6«,»8"). As a rule, in most cases, it is this bushing that is the reason for the knock in the steering rack, after diagnosing which, many "masters", including official Honda dealers in some cities, issue a verdict on the need to replace the entire assembly. And here you have to stop and think.

The fact is that among the original Honda parts there are indeed parts that change only in the assembly, for example, wheel bearings with a magnetic ring, but this is not the case.This bushing is easily sold separately and often in specialized stores there can be a wide enough selection for most models! So take your time to change the rail! Look for the bushing first!

Although, in fact, there is an even simpler solution to the problem, although it requires preliminary diagnosis at a service specializing in Honda. Often, to completely eliminate knocking, a very simple operation is required - unscrewing a bolt fixed with a lock nut, and ... Right! Cleaning a spring that has been covered with rust and deposits over the years. The spring simply ceases to fulfill its "clamping" properties due to accumulated dirt, and the bushing itself is blocked by the same deposits.

To restore the working properties of all this element (and, as a result, eliminate knocking), the following steps will be required:

Unscrew the lock nut "8"And the bolt"6". Sometimes it is not easy to get to them, but these are technical issues. Reassure yourself that changing the rail is more expensive.
Pull the spring and bushing out of the seat.
Clean the spring with a brush and chemical cleaners such as "carburetor cleaner" or Profoam 1000, or with ordinary diesel fuel. After cleaning, lubricate the spring with any grease to prevent water ingress.
Carefully inspect the working (PTFE-coated) surface of the sleeve. There should be no deep scratches, gouges, or metal-wiped spots on it. If there are any, replace the bushing.
Gently wipe dirt off the bushing seat.
Lubricate the bushing with grease and reinstall it.
Reassemble the assembly in reverse order. It is advisable to lubricate the bolt with the locknut as well.
Adjust the tightening torque. This operation is carried out with the help of a partner who must sit behind the wheel of the car and swing the steering wheel left and right in short movements. The person at the bottom adjusts the spring tension with the bolt until the knock in the steering wheel disappears, then fixes the position of the bolt with a lock nut.

Attention! When performing this operation, you must not overdo it, so as not to make the tension too strong. This will lead to the failure of the entire unit! If everything is lubricated and cleaned well, no great effort is required during adjustment!

Voila! As a result, you get an almost perfectly working rail (there is still wear, but it was eliminated by reasonable tightening), practically for nothing!

It should focus on the "improvement" of the process, which is sometimes suggested by the "masters". For a long time, we could not understand why clients, referring to forums, avoid this procedure. As it turned out, the reason is as follows.

Many masters understand the tightening procedure literally. They loosen the locknut and tighten the screw all the way until the knock disappears, after which they fix the result with the locknut. It turns out that all the dirt and rust that had to be cleaned out from under the bolt not only remains in place, but is driven further into the unit, and the bushing itself, which, in general, should be mobile, rests against the shaft with such force that sometimes even bends it. Naturally, the operation of the rail with such a "fixation" quickly destroys the entire mechanism, and the curved shaft breaks all the seals in its path, which is why the assembly also begins to leak. Repair after such a "tightening" is no longer possible, so please be careful when choosing a service. Standing above the soul and following the work of the master is incorrect. But it will not be superfluous to ask how this procedure will be done.

We return to the figure with the disassembled assembly. If you haven't forgotten yet, we still have one more circled detail - No. "11", - the output sleeve of the steering rack. It is also worth talking about. It happens that when diagnosing a rail, an obvious backlash of the shaft itself at the exit from the case is noticed. This occurs when the output sleeve itself is worn out, the central part of which (liner) is made of a softer metal than the shaft itself. The backlash formed inside can also lead to a knocking effect in the rail.Replacing this bushing is usually even easier than the pressure bushing - you unscrew the old one, tighten the new one, and that's it. Repair without replacement, in this case, is impossible, since the backlash appears as a result of natural wear and tear.

In any case, until dirt gets into the rail and destroys the shaft itself and the seals, the rail is quite maintainable.

By the way, the knock in the electric power steering (EUR) system is eliminated in the same way as in the power steering, with one exception - in the EUR there is no way to change the output sleeve. The manufacturer believes that there can be no problems with it. In fact, unfortunately, this is not the case. Often, owners of electric rails are offered to change the rack assembly, although there are technologies for restoring, or replacing steering bushings.* The pressure sleeve is adjusted in the usual way.

So, now you have the knowledge to repair steering racks. As you can see, there is no magic in that question - the knock on the rail can be removed simply and without problems if you know where to look for it.

* There is actually a way out of the situation when replacement of the output bushing of the electric rail is required. The sleeve itself can be unscrewed using a special tool, and despite all its protests, in most cases it succeeds. But then you can act in two directions.

The first is the manufacture of fluoroplastic liners in an old, worn out bushing. It is quite a reliable way if the manufacturer has experience in this area.

Second, restoration of the original output bushing. This "Jedi" art is owned by very few services, and as a rule, they keep it secret, since the final quality of the product is very close to the original performance, and lasts long enough, provided the reiki shaft is intact. Unfortunately (for the project, of course) we are bound by a promise to remain silent about the intricacies of this technology. But, we can help readers from Novosibirsk by suggesting a service with a personal request, which you can contact about the recovery procedure. That is, with all our desire, we have no right to tell in detail about the technology, but where to go - we will tell you!

Thank you for this report Michael199 for editing.
Steering rack Honda Civic cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, but with 180,000 - 200,000 km of run, even it comes into a state of "fatigue". Through cracked, torn anthers, dirt gets into the rail. The process of accelerated wear of the steering mechanism begins under the influence of abrasive in the road dust and getting into the rack with dirt. Plus, without protection, the guide rails rust pretty quickly. Not the best way to repair is to remove the rust and fill the rack with new grease, especially if the grease is not designed to work specifically in the steering rack. If the rack does not work properly, the load goes to the power steering (GUR) as a result of which it wears out faster than with a working rack. The new OEM Honda rake costs about $ 1200-1500, or even more, which, you see, at a car price of $ 7000. becomes just a gold piece. A contract rail, it is also repaired, costs a little cheaper, but in the same price range, $ 500-1000. What to do? Of course, do not lose heart, but repair the rail on your own.

To get started, you will need the following things, in general repair price 100-150 $

Steering rack repair kit - 06531-S04-J51 ($ 50)
Anthers to the rail - 53534-ST0-013 and 53534-SR3-N52 ($ 30)
Steering column bushing - 53416-S04-J51 ($ 15)
Power steering fluid - Honda PSF 3 bottles or 1 liter
Good vise
10, 12, 14, 17: heads and keys
Adjustable wrench 34 or 36 approx.
Live power steering if broken

First thing remove the steering rack Honda Civic. Unscrew two hoses on the rail itself. Hoses run from the pump to the rail, and from the rail to the fluid reservoir. To make it easier to do, you must first unscrew the other fasteners of these hoses, they are attached to the subframe with 10 small bolts.
First thing you drop the soft tube, which goes from the reservoir to the rail (fastened with a clamp), then unscrew the rigid high-pressure pipe with a 14 split wrench, which goes from the pump to the steering rack itself.
You also have to remove the middle part of the exhaust and a small metal protectioncovering the steering rack from below, remove the steering tips and rods, and in the cabin, unscrew the two bolts by 10, which hold the cardan between the steering column and the steering rack and remove the cardan up. Next, we extend the steering rack guide in one direction (I moved to the right) and take it out.

10mm bolts holding the steering rack gimbal

It is enough to simply loosen the upper bolt in the steering column and, by moving the steering gimbal upwards, disconnect it from the rack.

IMPORTANT REMINDER! After you remove the gimbal, under no circumstances turn the wheel! Without a rack, the steering wheel will not have a limitation of travel, and by rotating it to either side, you can ruin the loop of contacts on the steering wheel. You can turn the steering wheel if necessary! But always return it to the position in which you took it off! Also, before disconnecting this cardan between the steering column and the rack, put the wheels in a level position and try to keep the steering wheel in the same position throughout the work.

By removing the rail, you will be very unhappy with her appearance, there is dirt, rust all around, yes, and in this state most of the components on your car, but for now forget about it. After a while, you will bring the rail into excellent condition with your own hands, and it will serve you for a very long time, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy. Unscrew absolutely everything that is on the rail, and try not to mix up or lose the removed parts!

Start with guide sleeve. To do this, unscrew the lock nut (size 34 or 36, I used an adjustable "gas" wrench) then unscrew the tensioner with a 14 wrench and pull out the spring and the bushing itself. Next, use a 12 wrench to unscrew the tubes that remain on the rail. In my case, there was horror:

Swamp and rust inside the steering rack.

With a key or a 12 head, unscrew the two bolts distributor and take it out.

Distributor bolts removed

As you understand, all removed parts simply need to be cleaned of a layer of dirt and washed as best as possible. But the hardest part of the job is still ahead of you.

When assembling the rail at the factory, after tightening the main nut, a small point is pressed on the rail body with a core or a press, which fixes the nut and prevents it from unscrewing arbitrarily under the influence of shocks and vibration that occur when driving a car.

This point should be drilled out with a 3mm drill to a depth of about 2.5 - 3.0 mm. If you do not drill this point, then you run the risk of unscrewing this nut, rip off the thread on it. Initially, this is exactly what happened to me. I had to look for a new nut or rather, buy a dead steering rack and carefully unscrew this nut from it.

And it was necessary to drill like this

If everything is drilled correctly, then the nut can be easily unscrewed, and the thread remains in place. For your information, the original nut costs about $ 100 or 6000 r and wait for it under the order for about a month. Having unscrewed the restrictive nut, we pull out the rail guide as much as possible and then carefully press it out together with the oil seal. Then we take a special mandrel and with its help press out the second oil seal. (According to the manual, the head on 17 seems to fit, but it wedged me up, so I did not risk it and carved myself a special mandrel). In principle, everything is parsed. Once again we wash and clean everything!

Before assembling, it is worth paying attention to a couple of points. The main reason why our reiki begin to die is our own carelessness. Namely - torn anthers of the steering rack. Do not think that if you wrap a bag on the steering rod, then dirt, sand and water will not seep into it.All this leads to the formation of a rack of rust on the working shaft, which, forming uneven growths or pits, is just the same spoils the oil seal. In my case, everything was rather sad. The black stripe on the shaft and the dots are rust that has eaten deep enough. And because of it the rail was leaking strongly.

In this case, there are several solutions:

Give the shaft to a turner for grinding (but it is important to take into account that you cannot remove too much)
Buy a new shaft (To my surprise, its cost is noticeably lower than that of the rack assembly)
Grind the shaft by ourselves (which I actually did)

It turned out, of course, so-so. But, looking ahead, I will say that the result justified itself

After you have prepared your old shaft or bought a new one, you can proceed to reassembly.

My ground shaft and rack

ATTENTION! Be sure to purchase the original steering rack repair kit in advance! (06531-S04-J51).

Genuine Honda repair kit

The kit includes everything you need

First of all, we change rubber and plastic rings on the guide rail. We remove the old rings and put on new ones from the repair kit, first rubber, and then plastic.

Be sure to level the plastic ring so that it is not twisted anywhere.

In the rail itself, in the reverse order, we lay an iron washer from purchased repair kit. Basically, you just throw it into the rack body.

Before installing the first oil seal, according to the manual, the teeth on the shaft must be wrapped with special tape. To be more precise, we are talking about ordinary FUM tape, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store that has a plumbing department. It is necessary to wind the shaft so that when you put on the outer seal, you do not damage its working surface on the teeth on the shaft.

Shaft wrapped with FUM tape

You need to wind the tape from the center of the shaft to the edge, in this case, when you put on the oil seal, it will not cling to the tape, but will slide along it. Then lightly grease the oil seal and slide it over the shaft so that the flat side is facing from the center to the teeth.

Then insert the rail into the housing. Due to the stuffing box, the shaft will not fit easily, it must be pressed in. In fact, you press the oil seal into place with the shaft.

Then put the second oil seal with the flat side towards you and tighten the restricting nut.

Correct installation of the stuffing box

After you have tightened the restrictive nut, you can core-fill the same point on the rail as it was done at the factory so that the nut does not unscrew. (Personally, I did not do this, and just covered the old place with sealant).

Next, we put in place the liquid distributor, changing the sealing rubber from the repair kit on it. But, before doing this, you will need to crank the shaft along the teeth of the distributor. Then a little new grease needs to be filled into the lower bearing. This is necessary so that the distributor turns more easily and there is no extraneous noise. Please note that if your rack has been leaking for a long time, then in this bearing there is no normal lubrication left. Therefore this must be done. It is also advisable to lubricate the bearing on the distributor itself.

We stuff new grease into the lower bearing

The teeth on the shaft are also lubricated with new grease. Just don't put too much of it.

Now the only thing left to put is the steering rack guide. There is also small nuance, which I think it would be nice to pay attention to. If your rail knocks, but does not leak, the rods and tips are not always the reason for this. In some cases, backlash in the rail appears due to wear on this rail. Since its part, which is in contact with the shaft, is made of plastic, it wears out, which leads to the appearance of free play between the teeth on the shaft and the teeth on the liquid distributor. In its normal state, the spring and this guide press the shaft against the distributor, thereby removing the play between the teeth.

In the photo you can see, on the left is an old worn out bushing, and on the right is a new original (by the way, it costs about $ 10 or 600 rubles.)

Left - worn, right - new steering rack guides

Sometimes it is enough just to change this guide, and all problems with backlash are solved.

But back to our rake:

Before installing the guide, it is necessary to apply a certain amount of grease to its plastic part.

Before installing, the new guide must be lubricated

Next, put the guide in place. Then we put the washer, if you had one, and put the spring in place. Before installing the spring, lubricate the back of the guide bush or the spring itself and tighten the bolt in its place.

According to the manual on the bulkhead of the rail, in order to correctly set the pressure force of the guide, you need a bolt that fixes it first tighten to 25Nm, and then weaken it. This is done in order to align the shaft and guide, and to develop the spring a little. After loosen this bolt, it must be tightened, but with a smaller torque of only 3.9 Nm. Then, holding the bolt with a 14 wrench, screw and tighten the thin locknut.

After that, screw on all the tubes? which were on the slats and EVERYTHING. The rail is ready.

Your steering rack is as good as new!

After repairing the rail itself, we install the removed spare parts back to the car. After you put the rail in place, first of all, screw on the high pressure pipes (from the pump to the rail) and the return hose. Then you can safely screw the rail to the stretcher. Then you screw on the tie rods, put on the anthers and screw on the tips. If you were able to remove the rail yourself, then you should also be able to put it back together, there is a purely constructor. To install the steering wheel, set the wheels to approximately level position, and then put the steering column cardan on the rack.

Next, fill the power steering fluid into the tank, Original HONDA PSF. Since the system has been drained completely, you will need almost a liter of new fluid.

Smoothly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, DO NOT start the car! With such manipulations with the steering wheel, the liquid enters the rail, being distributed throughout the system. Only after the liquid from the tank has left at least a little is it possible to start the engine and repeat the rotation with the steering wheel in order for air bubbles to come out. Then stop the machine and add fluid to average mark. Between minimum and maximum!

If everything was done correctly, then the noises when the steering wheel rotates will disappear, the steering wheel itself will turn much easier, the knocks will disappear, and the power steering fluid will stop leaving and will not foam. Such renovation will save the family budget very well. And finally, since the tips were removed, you will have to make similarity collapse. The total cost of repairing the steering rack, with all original consumables, will be approximately $ 100-150. P.S. do not delay repairing your cars. Change all consumables on time.

This article is relevant for Honda vehicles produced in 1992-2000, such as Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (partially). The information will be relevant for owners of Honda Integra in DB6, DC1 bodies, with ZC, D15B, D16A engines.

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