Steering rack ACURA RDX steering rack akura rdx 53601STKA02, 53601STKA04, 53601SWAA01, 53601SWYG02
VIDEO
Steering Is one of the most important parts of a car. Its main purpose is to tie the front wheels and steering wheels together, to set the direction of movement for the car.It is thanks to her that the direction of movement of the car on the road is determined.
True, like any other part of the car, it is subject to wear and tear. They affect traffic safety, driving, wear and tear of other parts of the car. Tires wear out especially strongly in such a situation. Therefore, it is important to monitor the serviceability of this part and troubleshoot in time.
By car "Honda »This part has a high level of reliability. As a rule, before a run of 18 thousand km, there are no difficulties with its operation. She does not have typical breakdowns that are not typical for other car brands. Basic breakdowns happen for the same reasons as with other vehicles.
In most cases, cars are hydraulic racks , but some Honda vehicles are equipped with electric steering parts ... They wear out faster, in them the sleeve of the right end of the shaft most often fails. In this case repair yourself steering rack "Honda Civic" impossible as it requires a special tool and a lot of experience with parts.
The main signs that indicate the need for repair are knocking from under the front suspension when the steering wheel is turned to the side. As a rule, this indicates the need to replace the broken bushings of the worm gear pair. Leakage of working fluid requires replacing damaged oil seals and cleaning parts from corrosion.
Another problem that speaks of the need to repair the steering rack "Honda Fit" - steering play ... It usually occurs due to the development of a distributor rod or worm gear teeth. Replacing these parts is also required when biting the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is tight, the problem is most likely a corrosion in the assembly. It can only be eliminated by disassembling it completely and cleaning every part.
It should be understood that repairing the steering rack "Honda Accord 8" is an expensive pleasure. It also takes a lot of time.
The difficulty also lies in the fact that for some car models it is difficult to find a complete set of the unit. Then you have to select parts from different cars, but in this case, the guarantee of the unit will be low. Sometimes it will be more justified to completely replace the rail with a new original one.
Now let's take a closer look at typical breakdowns and ways to fix them.
In this case, you can try to repair the steering rack "Honda Accord 7" prevent by adjusting the nut tightening degree. But if the crankcase or steering rack shaft has mechanical damage or deformation, you will still have to carry out repair work. Their cost, as already mentioned, will be quite high.
This is one of the main causes of node breakdowns. This type of breakdown usually does not require serious renovation ... If you give the car to a car service to a good specialist, he can simply adjust the backlash, spending relatively little time on it.
If there is a leak in this unit of the car, this indicates oil seal wear ... Its damage leads to a violation of the tightness of the system. A process fluid flows out through the resulting ruptures, which requires an urgent and mandatory replacement of the oil seal. This is a complex and jewelry process that requires the removal of the bolts (they are almost always covered with corrosion), the crossbeam, and in particularly difficult cases it is necessary to hang the engine out.
Knocking, as a rule, appears due to overcoming various obstacles at high speeds. He talks about wear, and sometimes destruction of the bushings. In this case, they need to replace ... To do this, the unit will have to be dismantled, damaged parts replaced, installed back, and then adjusted to work. In this case, repairing the steering rack "Honda SRV 3" requires a special tool, so it is practically impossible to carry it out on your own without certain skills.
Any repair is a whole list of works aimed at restoring the operation of the mechanism in the mode provided by the manufacturer.In the process, it is necessary to identify and eliminate malfunctions, replace parts, adjust their work.
Before making repairs, you must prepare the car to work. To do this, dismantle all units that block access to the unit: air filter, resonator, battery. Its removal is also carried out according to a special procedure. When it is removed, it is taken apart and all parts are cleaned.
To carry out a correct and adequate repair of a part, it is necessary to carry out a clear diagnosis of it, as well as the units associated with it. Therefore, the repair of the steering rack in St. Petersburg must be carried out at service stations only by qualified specialists.
From instruments you will need a working power steering (if the previous one is broken), adjustable wrenches, heads and a reliable vice. For complex repairs that require suspension of the engine, special equipment is required.
Depending on the type of breakdown, the unit is repaired in different ways.
In case of minor malfunctions or maintenance work, the system is flushed and cleaned. It takes a little time and does not require a lot of money.
This type of repair requires removal of the assembly. Then held such works , how:
removal and disassembly of the unit;
flushing and cleaning the unit and its parts;
replacement of parts that cannot be restored;
checking and cleaning the gear shaft;
replacement of components (rings, oil seals, anthers, etc.);
Depending on the damage and wear of the parts, the repair can take from a couple of hours to a couple of days. At the end of the repair, several stages of its adjustment and performance checks are carried out.
Since such repairs take a lot of time, not everyone is ready to wait several days until it is completed. In this case, the spent assembly is replaced with an already assembled new one of the same configuration. This is also a long and laborious process.
First, you need to remove the battery terminal, unscrew the pain around the pedals by 10 and disconnect the steering shaft.
Then raise the car, disconnect the wheels, unscrew the steering end of the caliper. Sometimes at the same time they remove the boot without removing the tip.
Then it is necessary to remove the chips from the assembly and unscrew the bolts that hold the subframe.
The assembly of the assembly is carried out strictly in the reverse order. When the repaired or new rail is installed in place, it is necessary to carry out repeated testing of the unit operation, which will determine the accuracy of the work performed, indicate how ready the machine is for further operation.
The quality of work is evidenced by the absence of noise and difficulties when rotating the steering wheel, a stable level of the hydraulic booster fluid, and the absence of its foaming. Preventive work in the area of the node must be carried out every six months.
VIDEO As you can see, repairing a Honda steering rack is a difficult job that requires a lot of experience, knowledge, qualifications and special conditions, even for a simple replacement of a broken unit with a new one. To do this in an ordinary garage is practically unreal .
The cost of a new unit is high, and repair or replacement work takes a lot of time. Therefore, it is much wiser in time contact a car service to specialists for diagnostics and prevention of all its details.
Thank you for this report Michael199 for editing. Steering rack Honda Civic cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, but with 180,000 - 200,000 km of run, even it comes into a state of "fatigue". Through cracked, torn anthers, dirt gets into the rail. The process of accelerated wear of the steering mechanism begins under the influence of abrasive in the road dust and getting into the rack with dirt. Plus, without protection, the guide rails rust pretty quickly.Not the best way to repair is to remove the rust and fill the rack with new grease, especially if the grease is not designed to work specifically in the steering rack. If the rack does not work properly, the load goes to the power steering (GUR) as a result of which it wears out faster than with a working rack. The new OEM Honda rake costs about $ 1200-1500, or even more, which, you see, at a car price of $ 7000. becomes just a gold piece. A contract rail, it is also repaired, costs a little cheaper, but in the same price range, $ 500-1000. What to do? Of course, do not lose heart, but repair the rail on your own.
To get started, you will need the following things, in general repair price 100-150 $
Steering rack repair kit - 06531-S04-J51 ($ 50)
Anthers to the rail - 53534-ST0-013 and 53534-SR3-N52 ($ 30)
Steering column bushing - 53416-S04-J51 ($ 15)
Power steering fluid - Honda PSF 3 bottles or 1 liter
Good vise
10, 12, 14, 17: heads and keys
Adjustable wrench 34 or 36 approx.
Live power steering if broken
First thing remove the steering rack Honda Civic. Unscrew two hoses on the rail itself. Hoses run from the pump to the rail, and from the rail to the fluid reservoir. To make it easier to do, you must first unscrew the other fasteners of these hoses, they are attached to the subframe with 10 small bolts. you drop the soft tube, which goes from the reservoir to the rail (fastened with a clamp), then unscrew the rigid high-pressure pipe with a 14 split wrench, which goes from the pump to the steering rack itself. remove the middle part of the exhaust and a small metal protection covering the steering rack from below, remove the steering tips and rods, and in the cabin, unscrew the two bolts by 10, which hold the cardan between the steering column and the steering rack and remove the cardan up. Next, we extend the steering rack guide in one direction (I moved to the right) and take it out.
10mm bolts holding the steering rack gimbal
It is enough to simply loosen the upper bolt in the steering column and, by moving the steering gimbal upwards, disconnect it from the rack.
IMPORTANT REMINDER! After you remove the gimbal, under no circumstances turn the wheel! Without a rack, the steering wheel will not have a limitation of travel, and by rotating it to either side, you can ruin the loop of contacts on the steering wheel. You can turn the steering wheel if necessary! But always return it to the position in which you took it off! Also, before disconnecting this cardan between the steering column and the rack, put the wheels in a level position and try to keep the steering wheel in the same position throughout the work.
By removing the rail, you will be very unhappy with her appearance, there is dirt, rust all around, yes, and in this state most of the components on your car, but for now forget about it. After a while, you will bring the rail into excellent condition with your own hands, and it will serve you for a very long time, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy. Unscrew absolutely everything that is on the rail, and try not to mix up or lose the removed parts!
Start with guide sleeve. To do this, unscrew the lock nut (size 34 or 36, I used an adjustable "gas" wrench) then unscrew the tensioner with a 14 wrench and pull out the spring and the bushing itself. Next, use a 12 wrench to unscrew the tubes that remain on the rail. In my case, there was horror:
Swamp and rust inside the steering rack.
With a key or a 12 head, unscrew the two bolts distributor and take it out.
Distributor bolts removed
As you understand, all removed parts simply need to be cleaned of a layer of dirt and washed as best as possible. But the hardest part of the job is still ahead of you.
When assembling the rail at the factory, after tightening the main nut, a small point is pressed on the rail body with a core or a press, which fixes the nut and prevents it from unscrewing arbitrarily under the influence of shocks and vibration that occur when driving a car.
This point should be drilled out with a 3mm drill to a depth of about 2.5 - 3.0 mm. If you do not drill this point, then you run the risk of unscrewing this nut, rip off the thread on it. Initially, this is exactly what happened to me. I had to look for a new nut or rather, buy a dead steering rack and carefully unscrew this nut from it.
And it was necessary to drill like this
If everything is drilled correctly, then the nut can be easily unscrewed, and the thread remains in place. For your information, the original nut costs about $ 100 or 6000 r and wait for it under the order for about a month. Having unscrewed the restrictive nut, we pull out the rail guide as much as possible and then carefully press it out together with the oil seal. Then we take a special mandrel and with its help press out the second oil seal. (According to the manual, the head on 17 seems to fit, but it wedged me up, so I did not risk it and carved myself a special mandrel ). In principle, everything is parsed. Once again we wash and clean everything!
Before assembling, it is worth paying attention to a couple of points. The main reason why our reiki begin to die is our own carelessness. Namely - torn anthers of the steering rack. Do not think that if you wrap a bag on the steering rod, then dirt, sand and water will not seep into it. All this leads to the formation of a rack of rust on the working shaft, which, forming uneven growths or pits, is just the same spoils the oil seal. In my case, everything was rather sad. The black stripe on the shaft and the dots are rust that has eaten deep enough. And because of it the rail was leaking strongly.
In this case, there are several solutions:
Give the shaft to a turner for grinding (but it is important to take into account that you cannot remove too much)
Buy a new shaft (To my surprise, its cost is noticeably lower than that of the rack assembly)
Grind the shaft by ourselves (which I actually did)
It turned out, of course, so-so. But, looking ahead, I will say that the result justified itself
After you have prepared your old shaft or bought a new one, you can proceed to reassembly.
My ground shaft and rack
ATTENTION! Be sure to purchase the original steering rack repair kit in advance! (06531-S04-J51).
Genuine Honda repair kit
The kit includes everything you need
First of all, we change rubber and plastic rings on the guide rail. We remove the old rings and put on new ones from the repair kit, first rubber, and then plastic.
Be sure to level the plastic ring so that it is not twisted anywhere.
In the rail itself, in the reverse order, we lay an iron washer from purchased repair kit. Basically, you just throw it into the rack body.
Before installing the first oil seal, according to the manual, the teeth on the shaft must be wrapped with special tape. To be more precise, we are talking about ordinary FUM tape, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store that has a plumbing department. It is necessary to wind the shaft so that when you put on the outer seal, you do not damage its working surface on the teeth on the shaft.
Shaft wrapped with FUM tape
You need to wind the tape from the center of the shaft to the edge, in this case, when you put on the oil seal, it will not cling to the tape, but will slide along it. Then lightly grease the oil seal and slide it over the shaft so that the flat side is facing from the center to the teeth.
Then insert the rail into the housing. Due to the stuffing box, the shaft will not fit easily, it must be pressed in. In fact, you press the oil seal into place with the shaft.
Then put the second oil seal with the flat side towards you and tighten the restricting nut.
Correct installation of the stuffing box
After you have tightened the restrictive nut, you can core-fill the same point on the rail as it was done at the factory so that the nut does not unscrew. (Personally, I did not do this, and just covered the old place with sealant).
Next, we put in place the liquid distributor, changing the sealing rubber from the repair kit on it. But, before doing this, you will need to crank the shaft along the teeth of the distributor. Then a little new grease needs to be filled into the lower bearing. This is necessary so that the distributor turns more easily and there is no extraneous noise. Please note that if your rack has been leaking for a long time, then in this bearing there is no normal lubrication left. Therefore this must be done. It is also advisable to lubricate the bearing on the distributor itself.
We stuff new grease into the lower bearing
The teeth on the shaft are also lubricated with new grease. Just don't put too much of it.
Now the only thing left to put is the steering rack guide. There is also small nuance, which I think it would be nice to pay attention to. If your rail knocks, but does not leak, the rods and tips are not always the reason for this. In some cases, backlash in the rail appears due to wear on this rail. Since its part, which is in contact with the shaft, is made of plastic, it wears out, which leads to the appearance of free play between the teeth on the shaft and the teeth on the liquid distributor. In its normal state, the spring and this guide press the shaft against the distributor, thereby removing the play between the teeth.
In the photo you can see, on the left is an old worn out bushing, and on the right is a new original (by the way, it costs about $ 10 or 600 rubles.)
Left - worn, right - new steering rack guides
Sometimes it is enough just to change this guide, and all problems with backlash are solved.
But back to our rake:
Before installing the guide, it is necessary to apply a certain amount of grease to its plastic part.
Before installing, the new guide must be lubricated
Next, put the guide in place. Then we put the washer, if you had one, and put the spring in place. Before installing the spring, lubricate the back of the guide bush or the spring itself and tighten the bolt in its place.
According to the manual on the bulkhead of the rail, in order to correctly set the pressure force of the guide, you need a bolt that fixes it first tighten to 25Nm, and then weaken it. This is done in order to align the shaft and guide, and to develop the spring a little. After loosen this bolt, it must be tightened, but with a smaller torque of only 3.9Nm. Then, holding the bolt with a 14 wrench, screw and tighten the thin locknut.
After that, screw on all the tubes? which were on the slats and EVERYTHING. The rail is ready.
Your steering rack is as good as new!
After repairing the rail itself, we install the removed spare parts back to the car. After you put the rail in place, first of all, screw on the high pressure pipes (from the pump to the rail) and the return hose. Then you can safely screw the rail to the stretcher. Then you screw on the tie rods, put on the anthers and screw on the tips. If you were able to remove the rail yourself, then you should also be able to put it back together, there is a purely constructor. To install the steering wheel, set the wheels to approximately level position, and then put the steering column cardan on the rack.
Next, fill the power steering fluid into the tank, Original HONDA PSF. Since the system has been drained completely, you will need almost a liter of new fluid.
Smoothly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, DO NOT start the car! With such manipulations with the steering wheel, the liquid enters the rail, being distributed throughout the system. Only after the liquid from the tank has left at least a little can you start the engine and repeat the rotation with the steering wheel in order for air bubbles to come out. Then stop the machine and add fluid to average mark. Between minimum and maximum!
If everything was done correctly, then the noises when the steering wheel rotates will disappear, the steering wheel itself will turn much easier, the knocks will disappear, and the power steering fluid will stop leaving and will not foam. Such renovation will save the family budget very well. And finally, since the tips were removed, you will have to make similarity collapse. The total cost of repairing the steering rack, with all original consumables, will be approximately $ 100-150. P.S. do not delay repairing your cars. Change all consumables on time.
This article is relevant for Honda vehicles produced in 1992-2000, such as Civic EJ9, Civic EK3, CIVIC EK2, CIVIC EK4 (partially). The information will be relevant for owners of Honda Integra in DB6, DC1 bodies, with ZC, D15B, D16A engines.
This is really more convenient than writing comments below.
How often do you hear from hondavods a sad phrase: "my steering rack knocked, I will have to change, probably ... is it expensive?" I always want to gladly answer such questions: “Very expensive! ”At the same time, without deceiving the person. Indeed, the steering rack, or steering gear, is a very, very expensive part of a car. It so happened that the price charged by the supplier for this part reached a quarter of the real value of the car on the market. After announcing it to the client, often in his eyes there was a keen desire to do "self-depilation" of different points of the body, and no wonder - for example, for a Honda H-RV, the cost of a steering gear assembly is more than 50,000 rubles with a delivery time of more than a month!
And what, then, is our joy when such a question arises? Thinking in a thirst for profit? You are mistaken, dear! Now we will tell you how to get rid of knocking on the Honda steering rack at least on our own, and as a maximum, returning to the service that diagnosed you with the replacement of the steering rack, and triumphantly poking them into this article, indicate the correct course of action. Intrigued? Already good. Let's figure it out then. We will start, as is usual with us, from the very beginning, that is, with the fact that we have a steering rack and where it comes from knock on the steering rack .
So, the steering rack, or the correct "power steering gear", is the most important part of the power steering system, the one that helps to rotate the steering wheel with minimal effort. Those who studied at driving schools in Russian cars that are not equipped with a power steering system should remember very well how tight the steering wheel turns in them. The hydraulic booster is designed to facilitate this operation. And the key part of the power steering is the steering rack itself. In fact, the rail is the power steering. Let's take a look at this assembly first.
So, you see a picture from the official catalog. Let's take a look at what is drawn on it. The most interesting elements for us are highlighted in red circles. So let's start at the end. Under the number "14 »We see the actual power steering gearbox, it is the steering rack assembly. On each side, steering rods are attached to it (in the figure under the number "1 "). Steering tips are attached to the steering rods ("12 "), Which are ultimately attached to the wheel. All this simple yet highly effective design allows you to control the steering of your car's wheels.
The diagnosis of knocking should be started with this picture, since the first thing that can knock in this scheme, you already know, is the steering tips and tie rods. If the handpieces are extremely easy to diagnose - as a rule, a failed handpiece has a torn anther, which is why the ball joint of the finger has become unusable, then with traction everything is a little more complicated.
As a rule, the thrust also fails due to a torn anther (in the figure they are shown under the numbers "9 " and "10 "), But it also happens that the previous owner" killed "the traction, but changed the boot, stuffing it with new grease. As a result, the thrust worked for some time and finally got out of order, starting to knock.In this case, it is a little more difficult to diagnose it than the steering tip; it is necessary to remove the thrust boot and check the thrust itself for backlash in the horizontal plane. If there is a backlash, - hurray, the source of the knock has been found, you can change and collect everything back.
There is one significant drawback in this whole scheme - to miss a knock in the steering rod, or tip, and only non-specialists can recommend replacing the steering rack. As a rule, a good technician "catches" such a breakdown immediately, indicating the need to replace the part. Another thing is the knock inside the reiki itself. Let's take a look at its design together, and figure out what can knock there.
You can see a screenshot from the official Honda catalog showing the parted steering rack. Among all the details in this picture, we are most interested in the number “7″ , «10″ , and "11 ". Let's figure out together what is special about them.
You should start with the part number "10 “This is the steering rack shaft, a key element of the entire structure. It is by the movement of the shaft inside the rack housing that the wheels are turned, - the working fluid presses on the shaft in the horizontal plane, and it already transfers force to the wheels of the car, by means of rods and tips. The source of knocking inside the reiki is he. But by itself, it cannot knock (on a new car, it doesn’t knock!); Accordingly, there must be other details provoking this sound. And they really are.
7 ". In different catalogs, due to the difference in translations, this part may be called "steering rack bushing", "steering rack guide", "steering rack guide bush", "steering rack clamping bush". However, no matter how it is called, it has the same meaning and working purpose - to provide a fixed working position of the shaft in a certain plane, preventing it from deviating from it. The sleeve, as it were, half-wraps around the shaft itself, and the inner side, which is responsible for contact with the shaft, is covered with a special material based on fluoroplastic, which ensures minimal friction on contact.
Please note that the bushing itself is not fixed, but on the contrary, it is a movable part (if rigidly fixed, it would quickly deform the shaft), pushed forward by a powerful spring, regulated by a special bolt with a locknut (in the figure, details No.5 «,»6 «,»8 "). As a rule, in most cases, it is this bushing that is the reason for the knock in the steering rack, after diagnosing which, many "masters", including official Honda dealers in some cities, issue a verdict on the need to replace the entire assembly. And here you have to stop and think.
The fact is that among the original Honda parts there are indeed parts that change only in the assembly, for example, wheel bearings with a magnetic ring, but this is not the case. This bushing is easily sold separately and often in specialized stores there can be a wide enough selection for most models! So take your time to change the rail! Look for the bushing first!
Although, in fact, there is an even simpler solution to the problem, although it requires preliminary diagnosis at a service specializing in Honda. Often, to completely eliminate knocking, a very simple operation is required - unscrewing a bolt fixed with a lock nut, and ... Right! Cleaning a spring that has been covered with rust and deposits over the years. The spring simply ceases to fulfill its "clamping" properties due to accumulated dirt, and the bushing itself is blocked by the same deposits.
To restore the working properties of all this element (and, as a result, eliminate knocking), the following steps will be required:
Unscrew the lock nut "8 "And the bolt"6 ". Sometimes it is not easy to get to them, but these are technical issues. Reassure yourself that changing the rail is more expensive.
Pull the spring and bushing out of the seat.
Clean the spring with a brush and chemical cleaners such as "carburetor cleaner" or Profoam 1000, or with ordinary diesel fuel. After cleaning, lubricate the spring with any grease to prevent water ingress.
Carefully inspect the working (PTFE-coated) surface of the sleeve. There should be no deep scratches, gouges, or metal-wiped spots on it. If there are any, replace the bushing.
Gently wipe dirt off the bushing seat.
Lubricate the bushing with grease and reinstall it.
Reassemble the assembly in reverse order. It is advisable to lubricate the bolt with the locknut as well.
Adjust the tightening torque. This operation is carried out with the help of a partner who must sit behind the wheel of the car and swing the steering wheel left and right in short movements. The person at the bottom adjusts the spring tension with the bolt until the knock in the steering wheel disappears, then fixes the position of the bolt with a lock nut.
Attention! When performing this operation, you must not overdo it, so as not to make the tension too strong. This will lead to the failure of the entire unit! If everything is lubricated and cleaned well, no great effort is required during adjustment!
Voila! As a result, you get an almost perfectly working rail (there is still wear, but it was eliminated by reasonable tightening), practically for nothing!
It should focus on the "improvement" of the process, which is sometimes suggested by the "masters". For a long time, we could not understand why clients, referring to forums, avoid this procedure. As it turned out, the reason is as follows.
Many masters understand the tightening procedure literally. They loosen the locknut and tighten the screw all the way until the knock disappears, after which they fix the result with the locknut. It turns out that all the dirt and rust that had to be cleaned out from under the bolt not only remains in place, but is driven further into the unit, and the bushing itself, which, in general, should be mobile, rests against the shaft with such force that sometimes even bends it. Naturally, the operation of the rail with such a "fixation" quickly destroys the entire mechanism, and the curved shaft breaks all the seals in its path, which is why the assembly also begins to leak. Repair after such a "tightening" is no longer possible, so please be careful when choosing a service. Standing above the soul and following the work of the master is incorrect. But it will not be superfluous to ask how this procedure will be done.
We return to the figure with the disassembled assembly. If you haven't forgotten yet, we still have one more circled detail - No. "11 ", - the output sleeve of the steering rack. It is also worth talking about. It happens that when diagnosing a rail, an obvious backlash of the shaft itself at the exit from the case is noticed. This occurs when the output sleeve itself is worn out, the central part of which (liner) is made of a softer metal than the shaft itself. The backlash formed inside can also lead to a knocking effect in the rail. Replacing this bushing is usually even easier than the pressure bushing - you unscrew the old one, tighten the new one, and that's it. Repair without replacement, in this case, is impossible, since the backlash appears as a result of natural wear and tear.
In any case, until dirt gets into the rail and destroys the shaft itself and the seals, the rail is quite maintainable.
By the way, the knock in the electric power steering (EUR) system is eliminated in the same way as in the power steering, with one exception - in the EUR there is no way to change the output sleeve. The manufacturer believes that there can be no problems with it. In fact, unfortunately, this is not the case. Often, owners of electric rails are offered to change the rack assembly, although there are technologies for restoring, or replacing steering bushings.* The pressure sleeve is adjusted in the usual way.
So, now you have the knowledge to repair steering racks. As you can see, there is no magic in that question - the knock on the rail can be removed simply and without problems if you know where to look for it.
* There is actually a way out of the situation when replacement of the output bushing of the electric rail is required. The sleeve itself can be unscrewed using a special tool, and despite all its protests, in most cases it succeeds. But then you can act in two directions.
The first is the manufacture of fluoroplastic liners in an old, worn out bushing. It is quite a reliable way if the manufacturer has experience in this area.
Video (click to play).
Second, restoration of the original output bushing. This "Jedi" art is owned by very few services, and as a rule, they keep it secret, since the final quality of the product is very close to the original performance, and lasts long enough, provided the reiki shaft is intact. Unfortunately (for the project, of course) we are bound by a promise to remain silent about the intricacies of this technology. But, we can help readers from Novosibirsk by suggesting a service with a personal request, which you can contact about the recovery procedure. That is, with all our desire, we have no right to tell in detail about the technology, but where to go - we will tell you!
