DIY hover steering rack repair

1 - rubber cushion of the steering river mounting bracket; 2 - Bushing; 3 - supply pipelines; 4 - a sealing ring; 5 lock nut; 6 - thrust tip; 7 - paper clip; 8 - clamp; 9 - protective cover; 10 - thrust; 11 - lock washer; 12 - spring; 13 - lock nut; 14 - adjusting nut; 15 - spring; 16 - case; 17-plug; 16 - lock nut; 19 - spool body assembly; 20 - lower sealing collar; 21 - gear and valve assembly; 22 - sealing ring; 23 top bearing; 24 - upper sealing collar; 25 - spool body; 26 - retaining ring; 27 - restraining ring; 28 sleeve; 29 - sealing collar, 30 - sealing ring; 31 - rail assembly; 32 - sealing ring; 33 - sealing ring; 34 - lower bearing; 35 - needle bearing; 36 - sealing collar; 37 - steering box

Lubrication points and materials used

1. Secure the steering gear in a vise with soft jaws.

2. Unscrew the steering gear cover with a special key.

3. Using a rubber mallet, knock the gear and valve out of the body splines, remove the bottom seal, and then remove the gear and valve from the body.

4. Cut the oil seal on the valve gear.

Attention! When cutting the packing, do not damage the gear and valve.

5. Using a drift, remove the top seal and bearing from the valve body.

6. Rotate the rail stopper clockwise until the ends of the retaining ring pop out of the slot in the rail housing. Rotate the rail stopper counterclockwise and remove the retaining ring.

Attention! If the stopper is first turned counterclockwise, the retaining ring will protrude through the groove in the housing and it will be very difficult to remove the rail stopper.

7. Remove the rail stopper, bushing, gland and O-ring together with the rail.

8. To remove the bushing, partially squeeze the oil seal to remove the rack bushing.

9. Remove the lower bearing.

10. Remove the needle bearing.

12. Using a tube of a suitable diameter, knock the oil seal out of the control housing.

13. Install the oil seal in the steering box.

14. Install the needle and lower bearings.

15. Apply universal grease to the rack gear sector.

16. Install the rail in the special tool, lubricate the outer surface of the special tool, the gland and the O-ring with the special Dexron II liquid.

Slowly insert the rack with the special tool from the side of the master cylinder into the steering box. When installing the rail, gently press on it while simultaneously aligning the center of the gland and the end of the special attachment so that the gland retainer spring does not fall out.

17. Apply fluid to the outside of the stuffing box. Press the oil seal flush with the bushing.

18. Apply fluid to the inside of the stuffing box and o-ring.

19. Wrap the end of the rail with plastic tape and fit the rail bushing onto the rail.

20. Align the mark on the rail stopper with the notch on the cylinder. Then insert the retaining ring into the groove. Rotate the stopper clockwise and insert the ring into the correct position.

21. Install the upper oil seal and bearing.

22. Install the O-ring.

23. Press the lower gland into the valve body. The top of the gland should protrude about 1 mm above the body.

24. Apply sealant to the threaded part of the plug and screw it into the steering box. Lock the two lugs to prevent it from loosening.

25. Apply sealant to the threaded portion of the rail cover. Tighten the rack cover to 12 Nm.Swivel the rail cover back 10 °. Tighten the lock nut to 59 Nm.

26. Check the total torque. If the torque does not correspond to the required one, adjust it by rotating the rack base cover at an angle from 0 ° to 30 ° and measure the torque again.

27. After connecting the steering rod to the rack, lock the ends of the lock washer in two places.

28. Install new anthers and secure the clamps for their attachment.

29. Measure the distance A... It should be between 2.4-2.8 mm.

If the distance A does not correspond to the standard, it is necessary to re-adjust the special device.

Install and tighten the tie rod end as shown in the illustration. Then tighten the lock nut.

Note:
The lock nut is tightened only after the steering rack assembly with the hydraulic booster is installed on the car.

Install the rubber pad on the rail housing as shown in the figure.

Great Wall Hover is not an easy car. On the one hand, given the relative simplicity of its design, it is reliable enough to be relied on when going on an off-road trip - to the dacha or fishing. On the other hand, the quality of its components (first of all, the quality of the steels from which the components of its working mechanisms are made) and the assembly of the car still fall short of European standards, therefore, attention to the main working mechanisms of Hover on the part of its owner should be especially close.

The steering system is one of the main in the car. So, when going on a serious trip, do not forget to check the condition of its elements. Better yet, visit a car service, where experienced specialists will carry out its diagnostics. So you can not only avoid unpleasant surprises on the road, but also, if you find faults in their early stages, significantly save on repairs.

The main element of the Hover steering system is the traditional rack. Its purpose is to convert the rotation of the steering wheel into the steering movement of the front wheels of the vehicle.

The design of this mechanism is as follows: by turning the steering wheel fixed on the shaft, the driver thereby sets in motion the guide gear fixed on the other end of the shaft. That, in turn, is connected by means of a gear train with a rack. Moving to the right or left, the latter pushes the tips, which, in fact, turn the wheels. The connections of the rail with the lugs and those with the wheels are carried out by means of bearings.

Almost all malfunctions of the steering rack, resulting from the wear of its parts, manifest themselves as backlash. It is not easy to determine in which node it was formed - this will require a full diagnostics of the control system. In most cases, the total backlash, called total, consists of several small ones, which can be eliminated at the initial stage of their appearance by tightening the corresponding joints.

If the backlash is large and the parts between which it appeared are badly worn out, then they will most likely have to be changed. The final cause of the malfunction and the way to eliminate it can only be given by diagnostics.

The steering rack is diagnosed by two specialists. The car is installed on a lift, and while one master slowly and evenly rotates the steering wheel, the second observes the turning of the wheels and makes sure that it is not accompanied by extraneous sounds - crunching and grinding. The latter, most likely, will indicate deformation or breakage of the guide gear or the rack itself.

After the symptoms of the breakdown are established, the rail is disassembled and dismantled from the car. Its parts are cleaned of contamination, and the master examines them for the detection of worn, broken and deformed elements. All of them are subject to mandatory replacement.

The main symptoms of a malfunction are as follows:

• knocking in the area of ​​the front axle of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel.It can be the same in different positions of the steering wheel, and it can decrease or disappear altogether when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme left and right positions. The latter is a symptom of severe wear, in fact, of the reiki;
• knocking noise when driving on uneven roads. So often the backlash in the connection of the rack and gear makes itself felt;
• extraneous sounds arising when turning the steering wheel may indicate a leak and the ingress of sand or a foreign object into the guide mechanism;
• excessive efforts when rotating the steering wheel - this may indicate both a breakdown of the power steering system and a deformation of the rack or guide gear;
• lack of effort when rotating the steering wheel is a rather rare symptom, indicating several possible malfunctions at once, ranging from the breakdown of the rack itself to the failure of the cardan joint of the steering shaft;
• the angle of rotation of the wheels does not correspond to the angle of rotation of the steering wheel;
• a drop in the fluid level in the power steering reservoir indicates a leak in the power steering system - this is either damage to one or more oil seals, or a rupture of the circuit through which the fluid circulates.

Theoretically, if this or that part is not broken, but only deformed (for example, one of the rack teeth is bent), it can be restored. However, experts recommend doing this only when there is no way to replace the broken part. After all, the strength of the restored element will no longer be the same, and very soon the rail will need another repair.

The design of this car, unfortunately, is such that only one mounting / dismantling of the control mechanism requires serious effort. Therefore, it is better to repair the Hover steering rack with proper quality the first time than to postpone the final solution of the problem until later.

Having established the cause of the malfunction, the master, before starting work, will tell the car owner about possible solutions to the problem, the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. He will also name the cost of repairs of varying degrees of complexity. The final decision about which operation to carry out is made by the owner of the Hover.

Our specialists have extensive experience in repairing steering mechanisms for a wide variety of cars, so you can always trust their professional opinion!

Hello everyone. Today I crawled under the wheel and tugged at the steering shaft, which was recently changed to me and that's what is not clear, it loosens back and forth around its axis by hand. Should it have a free wheel or not? Maybe the car does not hold the road because of this ?

There is a tough connection. if, when turning behind the steering shaft, with the car running, the wheels with the steering wheel stand still, then something is wrong.
Post has been edited by mrV: 04 May 2015 - 06:14

there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Do not wait for "exact" advice - you need to feel, - there are many options.

there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Easy to adjust. The main thing is not to overtighten when tightening the locknut.
"Murzilka with pictures" here:

there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Guys - don't just write it! - maybe the tips are loose, maybe the rods, or maybe the rail! (and maybe levers and ball).

tips are normal. The rod knocks in the rail, how can I tighten it?

tips are normal. The rod knocks in the rail, how can I tighten it?

Gee, I'll have to repeat. by adjusting the rail.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic41634s0.html?p=808159&#entry808159

People, and who knows the thread - what kind of grease is inside the rail? I mean not the part where the power steering fluid is, but the part where the "worm" itself is. What the same grease should be there anyway! I think to loosen the rail a little, otherwise the steering wheel goes a little hard, I myself do it.

What do we have - I don't know, but in general they smeared FIOL before, - such garbage, it looks like a blue mobile.

What do we have - I don't know, but in general they smeared FIOL before, - such garbage, it looks like a blue mobile.

In fact, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is 158.

In fact, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is 158.

Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don’t understand anything anymore!
As in his previous message and said - increased effort on the steering wheel, with a slight backlash (5-8 °)!
- backlash is constantly present, the effort on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although it is still increased, when the engine compartment is fully warmed up, the effort increases;
- the steering rack is relatively new (I ran 10 thousand, well, 12.), but this effect (ALMOST in its full manifestation) was noticed immediately after its installation;
- the lower cardan was changed (he was almost killed), the upper one was completely “alive”, without any comments;
- Yesterday I PULLED (!) (And did not loosen, as I thought at first to do) the rail by about 2/3 of a turn, with the help of a bolt 24 - was really not enough. I say right away - I did NOT pull it, I could even hold out, but I didn’t, because I didn’t. the effort on the steering wheel will then increase even more;
- the power steering fluid has already been changed 2 times, and the last time it was VERY successful, now it is clean and transparent in the system;
- there are no extraneous sounds / noises / knocks in the steering wheel!
WHAT ELSE COULD BE ?!

It's just that at speed, especially on long journeys, it is very stressful to constantly “steer hard”, and even with backlash! After an hour or two, it already starts to exhaust.
Maybe the second bolt on the steering rack, below the rack along the axis of the steering shaft, has something to do with the adjustment? Or is he just like a stub there?
Or maybe there is some kind of airlock in the system, which gives a backlash? (Then why the steering wheel is “heavy” and there are no extraneous sounds?)
Or put more grease into the steering bevel gear.
(Hover H5, gasoline)

"I ask the audience for help!"

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

But I did not touch the rail, I don’t understand.

The main thing is, why did it change?

I advise you to remove the filter from the power steering tank (two latches are picked up with a flat screwdriver and pulled out) and wipe it off at turns, is there oil moving from one hose to another?
Is it fun or just barely?
For one thing and inspect the filter, there is nothing superfluous on it?

Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don’t understand anything anymore!
As in his previous message and said - [b] increased.

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

it was exactly the same only on

And what exactly happened and why, the main thing?
Can be more ?

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

The link describes everything, I did not disassemble my worm

It describes what you replaced and everything is fine now, but what happened, why and can you disassemble the worm - no (
But you answered the question IMHO - change the rail or look for a block with a worm.

- backlash is constantly present, the effort on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although it is still increased, when the engine compartment is fully warmed up, the effort increases; - the steering rack is relatively new (10 thousand ran, well, 12.), but this effect ( ALMOST in full present manifestation) noticed immediately after its installation

Interestingly, but m. a worm of the wrong worm?
for example Н2 is not interchangeable with Н3-5?

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
• power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• spool mechanism.

Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the lower oil seal.
6. Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
7. Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
8. Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
9. Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. Place the steering rack in the middle position.
7. Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

Many owners have a question how to remove the backlash of the 2007 Great Hover steering wheel. (diesel)? This effect is due to a malfunction in the steering. As you know, this node is not only an integral part of the vehicle, but also one of the frontiers of traffic safety. So, in the event of the slightest malfunctions, it is necessary to eliminate them.

How to remove the backlash of the steering wheel in 2007 Great Hover (diesel)? It is assumed that there is a standard steering clearance that is required for correct operation of the steering rack. But how can you tell if the steering play is higher than normal? The standard clearance should be 5 degrees for all 360 degrees of rotation.

To measure, you need a ruler. It rests against the dashboard with one end, and with the other it comes into contact with the steering wheel circumference. In this case, the wheels must stand exactly straight. The steering wheel turns until the wheels start turning. From the center mark to the wheel turning mark, there will be a backlash, which must be calculated in degrees. If it is more than 5 degrees, then it is worth looking for faults.

On Great Hover 2007 there may be a backlash in the steering mechanism for the following reasons:

• Loose steering column mountings.
• Crosspiece wear.
• Failure of steering rods.
• Steering rack wear and tear.

All these reasons can be the reasons for the appearance of a backlash in the steering mechanism.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to carry out a comprehensive diagnostics. So, to determine which particular element is out of order, it is necessary to diagnose the elements in stages.

If everything worked out, then you need to reinstall the steering rack and test it for performance. In some cases, it may be necessary to make wheel alignment, but as practice shows, for any manipulations associated with steering, this procedure is done.

Experts and auto repairmen recommend that if a backlash in the steering mechanism occurs, it is necessary to contact a car service as soon as possible, where they will quickly find the cause and be able to eliminate it efficiently. Of course, this procedure is not cheap, and sometimes it turns out that the cost can reach several tens of thousands of rubles, but you cannot play and delay, because security is more expensive.

It is also worth noting that some motorists at car services are deceived by inventing malfunctions that do not exist. So, when arriving at a car service, it is necessary to monitor the work of the craftsmen, since this is in the interests of the owners themselves.

It is quite difficult to determine the malfunction of the steering mechanism, since certain knowledge is required in the design of the car and the system of operation. But with a strong desire, you can identify the failed elements, carry out diagnostics and repairs with your own hands.

Contacting a car service is an extreme case, since steering play most often occurs when the steering rods are malfunctioning. The signs of this breakdown are quite simple - the car starts to pull to one side. How to remove the backlash of the steering wheel in 2007 Great Hover (diesel) - the answer is received in this article. It is worth considering the fact that everything does not always end tragically, by replacing the steering rack. Often the reason lies in simple elements that fail more often than others.

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• Aleksey.Semenihin
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Hello to all! need help! drip oil seal on the steering rack (left), I can not find either the catalog number, or the dimensions, or the repair kit! Maybe there is some kind of analogue? And then replacing this unit will be a pretty penny!

• 
• Toydarian
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Here: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic18115.html
Theoretically, an oil seal F-00811 with the following dimensions can be suitable: 27 * 38 * 6.5. It costs 500 rubles.

• Aleksey.Semenihin
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That is, oil seals measuring 27 * 38 * 7? in principle, you can try to pick up! again, homemade with rings, but you can't buy a ready-made repair kit?

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• Toydarian
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in principle, you can try to pick up!

Look for motorcycle shops (services) (for example, on Rodionova street near the Avtomod store).

Can't buy a ready-made repair kit?

Everything is complicated with repair kits. Each rail has its own repair kit. What is your rake?

• Aleksey.Semenihin
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I don’t know what kind of rake I have!

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• Toydarian
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• Aleksey.Semenihin
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looked, but that, it is scary to buy suddenly will not work!

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• urkagancik
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Good evening! I know firsthand about the rails. I changed it myself twice, but it’s true on Taz, once I got into the service of a competent locksmith, so he said that an overworked rail never goes away for a long time and as far as the devil knows it. Then he said that if you change (no matter where, by yourself or in the service), put a new one, and not after the restoration. Like this. Now the question arose on the hover, I will order a new one in the store. Expensive, but you can hope that it does.

Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack.

Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.

• there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
• the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
• when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
• power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
• unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.

Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.

A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.

This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.

1. Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
2. Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
5. Remove the lower oil seal
6. Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
7. Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
9. Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.

1. Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
2. Place the rail in the housing.
3. Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
4. Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
7. Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
8. Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
9. Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.

Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.

As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.

WD40

1. Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
2. Tip remover.
3. Hammer and thin screwdriver.
4. Liquid key.
5. Rags.
6. Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

1. Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
2. We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

• We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
• We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
• The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
• When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..