Do-it-yourself hover steering rack repair

1 - rubber cushion of the steering river mounting bracket; 2 - Bushing; 3 - supply pipelines; 4 - sealing ring; 5 locknut; 6 – a tip of draft; 7 - paper clip; 8 - collar; 9 - protective cover; 10 - thrust; 11 - lock washer; 12 - spring; 13 - locknut; 14 - adjusting nut; 15 - spring; 16 - body; 17-cork; 16 - locknut; 19 - spool body assembly; 20 - lower sealing cuff; 21 - gear and valve assembly; 22 - sealing ring; 23 upper bearing; 24 - upper sealing cuff; 25 - spool housing; 26 - retaining ring; 27 - restrictive ring; 28 sleeve; 29 - sealing collar, 30 - sealing ring; 31 - rail assembly; 32 - sealing ring; 33 - sealing ring; 34 - lower bearing; 35 - needle bearing; 36 - sealing cuff; 37 – the case of the steering mechanism

Lubrication points and materials used

1. Fix the steering gear in a vice with soft jaws.

2. Unscrew the steering gear cover with a special key.

3. Using a rubber mallet, tap the gear and valve from the body splines, remove the bottom seal, and then remove the gear and valve from the body.

4. Cut the seal on the valve gear.

Attention! When cutting the gland, do not damage the gear and valve.

5. Using a drift, remove the upper packing and bearing from the valve body.

6. Turn the rack stopper clockwise until the ends of the retaining ring come out of the groove in the rack body. Turn the rack stopper counterclockwise and remove the retaining ring.

Attention! If the stopper is first turned counterclockwise, the stop ring will come out through the groove in the housing and the rack stopper will be very difficult to remove.

7. Remove the rack retainer, bushing, gland and o-ring together with the rack.

8. To remove the bushing, partially compress the gland to remove the rack bushing.

9. Remove the bottom bearing.

10. Remove the needle bearing.

12. Using a tube of suitable diameter, knock out the stuffing box from the relay housing.

13. Establish an epiploon in the case of the steering mechanism.

14. Install the needle and lower bearings.

15. Apply multipurpose grease to the gear section of the rack.

16. Install the rail in the special tool, lubricate the outer surface of the special tool, oil seal and o-ring with Dexron II special fluid.

Slowly insert the rack with special tool from the side of the master cylinder into the steering gear housing. When installing the rack, gently press it while aligning the center of the gland and the end of the special tool so that the gland retainer spring does not fall out.

17. Apply fluid to the outer surface of the stuffing box. Press the gland flush with the sleeve.

18. Apply fluid to the inside of the gland and o-ring.

19. Wrap the end of the rail with plastic tape and install the rail bushing onto the rail.

20. Align the mark on the rail stopper with the notch on the cylinder. Then insert the retaining ring into the groove. Turn the stopper clockwise and insert the ring into the correct position.

21. Install the top seal and bearing.

22. Install the o-ring.

23. Press the bottom gland into the valve body. The upper part of the stuffing box should protrude above the body by about 1 mm.

24. Apply sealant to the threaded part of the plug and screw it into the steering gear housing. Lock the two lugs to prevent it from unscrewing.

25. Apply sealant to the threaded portion of the rack cover. Tighten the rack cover with a torque of 12 Nm.Rotate the rack cover back 10°. Tighten the lock nut to 59 Nm.

26. Check the total torque. If the torque is not correct, adjust it by rotating the rack base cover from 0° to 30° and measure the torque again.

27. After connecting the steering rod to the rack, lock the ends of the lock washer in two places.

28. Install new anthers and secure the collars of their fastening.

29. Measure the distance A. It should be within 2.4-2.8 mm.

If distance A does not correspond to the standard, it is necessary to re-adjust the special tool.

Install and tighten the tie rod end as shown. Then tighten the locknut.

Note:
The locknut is tightened only after installing the steering rack assembly with the hydraulic booster on the car.

Install the rubber cushion on the rack housing as shown in the figure.

Great Wall Hover is not an easy car. On the one hand, given the relative simplicity of its design, it is reliable enough to rely on it when going on an off-road trip - to the country or fishing. On the other hand, the quality of its components (first of all, the quality of the steels from which the components of its working mechanisms are made) and the assembly of the car still fall short of European standards, therefore, attention to the main working mechanisms of the Hover from its owner should be especially close.

The steering system is one of the most important in a car. So, going on a serious journey, do not forget to check the condition of its elements. Better yet, visit a car service, where it will be diagnosed by experienced specialists. So you can not only avoid unpleasant surprises on the road, but also, if faults are detected in their early stages, you can significantly save on repairs.

The main element of the Hover steering system is a traditional rack. Its purpose is to convert the rotation of the steering wheel into the turning movements of the front wheels of the car.

The design of this mechanism is as follows: by turning the steering wheel mounted on the shaft, the driver thereby sets in motion the guide gear fixed at the other end of the shaft. That, in turn, is connected by means of a gear with a rack. Moving to the right or left, the latter pushes the tips, which, in fact, turn the wheels. The connections of the rail with tips and those with wheels are carried out by means of bearings.

Almost all malfunctions of the steering rack, resulting from the wear of its parts, manifest themselves as backlash. It is not easy to determine in which node it was formed - this will require a complete diagnosis of the control system. In most cases, the total backlash, called the total, consists of several small ones, which can be eliminated at the initial stage of their appearance by tightening the corresponding connections.

If the play is large and the parts between which it appeared are very worn out, then they will most likely have to be changed. The final cause of the malfunction and the way to eliminate it can only be given by diagnostics.

The steering rack is diagnosed by two specialists. The car is installed on a lift, and while one master slowly and evenly rotates the steering wheel, the second one watches the wheels turn and makes sure that it is not accompanied by extraneous sounds - a crunch and a rattle. The latter, most likely, will indicate deformation or breakage of the guide gear or the rack itself.

After the symptoms of a breakdown are established, the rail is disassembled and dismantled from the car. Its parts are cleaned of dirt, and the master inspects them for worn, broken and deformed elements. All of them are subject to mandatory replacement.

The main symptoms of a malfunction are:

• knocking in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe front axle of the car that occurs when the steering wheel is turned. It can be the same in different positions of the steering wheel, or it can decrease or even disappear when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme left and right positions. The latter is a symptom of severe wear, in fact, of the rail;
• knocking sound that occurs when driving on rough roads. So often the backlash in the connection of the rack and pinion makes itself felt;
• extraneous sounds that occur when turning the steering wheel may indicate a leak and ingress of sand or a foreign object into the guide mechanism;
• excessive efforts when turning the steering wheel - this may indicate both a breakdown of the hydraulic booster system and deformation of the rack or guide gear;
• lack of effort when turning the steering wheel is a rather rare symptom that speaks of several possible malfunctions at once, ranging from a breakdown of the rack itself to failure of the steering shaft cardan connection;
• the angle of rotation of the wheels does not correspond to the angle of rotation of the steering wheel;
• a drop in the fluid level in the power steering reservoir indicates a leak in the power steering system - this is either damage to one or more seals, or a break in the circuit through which the fluid circulates.

Theoretically, if one or another part is not broken, but only deformed (for example, one of the rack teeth is bent), it can be restored. However, experts recommend doing this only if it is not possible to replace a broken part. After all, the strength of the restored element will no longer be the same, and very soon the rail will need another repair.

The design of this car, unfortunately, is such that the installation / dismantling of the control mechanism alone requires serious effort. Therefore, it is better to repair the Hover steering rack with proper quality the first time, rather than postponing the final solution to the problem until later.

Having established the cause of the malfunction, the master, before starting work, will tell the car owner about possible ways to solve the problem, the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. He will also name the cost of repairs of varying degrees of complexity. The final decision on which operation to perform is made by the owner of the Hover.

Our specialists have extensive experience in repairing steering mechanisms of a wide variety of vehicles, so you can always trust their professional opinion!

Hello everyone. Today I climbed under the wheel and pulled the steering shaft, which I recently changed and that's not clear, it plays back and forth around its axis by hand. Should it have free play or not? Maybe the car does not hold the road because of this ?

There is a strong connection. if, when turning behind the steering shaft, with the car running, the wheels with the steering wheel are in place, then something is not right.
Post has been edited by mrV: 04 May 2015 – 06:14

there was a knock in the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the tie rod? Or is this all a replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Do not expect "accurate" advice - you need to feel it - there are many options.

there was a knock in the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the tie rod? Or is this all a replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Easily adjustable. The main thing is not to overtighten when tightening the locknut.
“Murzilka with pictures” here:

there was a knock in the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the tie rod? Or is this all a replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000

Guys, - don't write just like that! - maybe the tips are loose, maybe the thrust, or maybe the rail! (and maybe levers and ball).

tips are normal. There is a rattling sound in the rack, how can I tighten it?

tips are normal. There is a rattling sound in the rack, how can I tighten it?

Gee, I'll have to do it again. by adjusting the rail.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic41634s0.html?p=808159&#entry808159

The people, and who knows the thread - what kind of lubricant is inside the rail? I don’t mean the part where the power steering fluid is, but the one where the “worm” itself is. What kind of lubricant should be there anyway! I think to loosen the rail a little, otherwise the steering wheel is hard to go, to itself.

What we have - I don’t know, but in general they smeared it with FIOL before - such garbage - it looks like a blue mobile.

What we have - I don’t know, but in general they smeared it with FIOL before - such garbage - it looks like a blue mobile.

Actually, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is grease 158.

Actually, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is grease 158.

Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don't understand anything anymore!
As I said in my previous post - increased effort on the steering wheel, with a small backlash (5-8 °)!
- backlash is constantly present, the force on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although still increased, with a fully heated engine compartment, the force increases;
- the steering rack is relatively new (10 thousand ran, well, 12.), but I noticed this effect (Almost in full present manifestation) immediately after its installation;
- the lower cardan shaft was changed (it was almost killed), the upper one is completely “alive”, without remarks;
- yesterday I TIGHTENED (!) (and did not loosen it, as I thought at first) the rail by about 2/3 of a turn, with the help of a bolt by 24 - it was really undertightened. I say right away - I DO NOT overtighten it, it was even possible to still hold out, but I didn’t, because. the effort on the steering wheel will then increase even more;
- GUR fluid has already been changed 2 times, and the last time was VERY successful, now it is clean and transparent in the system;
— no extraneous sounds/noises/knocks in the steering no!
WHAT ELSE COULD BE?!

It’s just that at speed, especially on long trips, it’s very stressful to constantly “steer hard”, and even with backlash! After an hour or two it starts to fade.
Maybe some second bolt on the steering rack, from the bottom of the rack along the axis of the steering shaft, has something to do with the adjustment? Or is it just like a stub there?
Or is there some kind of airlock in the system, which gives backlash? (Then why is the steering wheel “heavy” and there are no extraneous sounds?)
Or stuff more grease into the steering angle gearbox.
(Hover H5, petrol)

“I ask the audience for help!”

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

And I didn’t touch the rail, I don’t understand.

More importantly, why did she change?

I advise you to pull the filter out of the power steering reservoir (two latches are picked up with a flat screwdriver and pulled out) and look at the speed, is there oil moving from one hose to another?
Fun or barely?
For one thing, and inspect the filter, is there anything superfluous on it?

Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don't understand anything anymore!
As in his previous message, he said - [b] increased.

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

it was exactly the same only on

And what exactly happened and why, most importantly?
Can be more ?

Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015

Everything is described by the link, I did not disassemble my worm

It describes what you replaced and everything is fine now, but what happened, why and whether it is possible to disassemble the worm - no (
But IMHO you answered the question - change the rail or look for a boo block with a worm.

- backlash is constantly present, the force on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although still increased, when the engine compartment is fully warmed up, the force increases; - the steering rack is relatively new (10 thousand ran, well 12.), but this effect ( ALMOST in full present manifestation) noticed immediately after its installation

Interesting, but maybe. a worm of the wrong worminess?
for example h2 is not interchangeable with h3-5?

The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.

All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
• the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• golden mechanism.

Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat shield.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the bottom seal.
6. By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
7. Turn the retaining plug and pull out the retaining ring by the wire that will show when scrolling.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
9. Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the housing.
3. Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all the parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
5. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position.
7. Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.

Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

Many owners have a question, how to remove the backlash of the Great Hover 2007 steering wheel. (diesel)? This effect occurs due to a malfunction of the steering. As you know, this node is not only an integral part of the vehicle, but also one of the frontiers of traffic safety. So, if the slightest malfunction occurs, it is necessary to eliminate them.

How to remove steering play Great Hover 2007 (diesel)? So it is believed that there is a standard clearance of the steering mechanism, which is necessary for the correct operation of the steering rack. But how to determine that the steering play is above normal? The standard clearance should be 5 degrees for all 360 degrees of rotation.

To measure, you need a ruler. At one end it rests against the dashboard, and at the other it comes into contact with the circumference of the steering wheel. In this case, the wheels should stand exactly straight. The steering wheel turns until the wheels begin to turn. From the center mark to the wheel turn mark, there will be play, which must be calculated in degrees. If it is more than 5 degrees, then it is worth looking for malfunctions.

On the Great Hover 2007 onwards. Steering gear play may occur for the following reasons:

• Loose steering column mounts.
• Removal of the cross.
• Failure of steering rods.
• Development and wear of the steering rack.

All these reasons can cause steering play to appear.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive diagnosis. So, to determine which element is out of order, it is necessary to diagnose the elements in stages.

If everything worked out, then you need to install the steering rack back and test it for performance. In some cases, it may be necessary to do wheel alignment, but as practice shows, this procedure is done with any manipulations related to steering.

Experts and car repairmen recommend that in the event of a backlash in the steering mechanism, it is necessary to contact a car service as soon as possible, where they will quickly find the cause and be able to eliminate it qualitatively. Of course, this procedure is not cheap, and sometimes it turns out that the cost can reach several tens of thousands of rubles, but you can’t play and pull, because safety is more expensive.

It is also worth noting that some motorists at car services are deceived by inventing malfunctions that do not exist. So, upon arrival at a car service, it is necessary to control the work of the masters, since this is in the interests of the owners themselves.

It is quite difficult to determine the malfunction of the steering mechanism, since certain knowledge is required in the design of the car and the system of work. But with a strong desire, you can determine the failed elements, carry out diagnostics and repairs with your own hands.

Contacting a car service is an extreme case, since steering play most often occurs when the steering rods fail. The signs of this breakdown are quite simple - the car starts to pull in one direction. How to remove steering play Great Hover 2007 (diesel) - the answer is obtained in this article. It is worth considering the fact that not always everything ends tragically, with the replacement of the steering rack. Often the reason lies in simple elements that fail more often than others.

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• Aleksey Semenihin
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Hello to all! need help! the oil seal on the steering rack (left) dripped, I can’t find either the catalog number, or the dimensions, or the repair kit! Maybe there is some analogue? And then the replacement of this unit will cost a pretty penny!

• 
• Toydarian
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Here: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic18115.html
Theoretically, an oil seal F-00811 with the following dimensions can fit: 27 * 38 * 6.5. It costs 500 rubles.

• Aleksey Semenihin
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That is, oil seals 27 * 38 * 7 in size? in principle, you can try to pick up! again, homemade with rings, but you won’t be able to buy a ready-made repair kit?

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• Toydarian
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in principle, you can try to pick up!

Look for motorcycles in stores (services) (for example, on Rodionova St. near the Automoda store).

Buy a ready-made repair kit fail?

Everything is complicated with repair kits. Each rail has its own repair kit. What rack do you have?

• Aleksey Semenihin
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I don't know what rack I have!

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• Toydarian
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• Aleksey Semenihin
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I looked, but it’s scary to buy suddenly it won’t work!

• 
• urkagancik
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Good evening! I know firsthand about rails. I myself changed it twice, but the truth is on the Taza, once I got into the service of a competent locksmith, so he said that the sorted rail never lasts a long time and how much the devil knows her. Then he said that if you change (no matter where, yourself or in the service), put a new one, and not after restoration. Like this. Now the question arose on the hover, I will order a new one in the store. Expensive, but you can hope that it is like.

Repairing the steering rack or power steering gearbox, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Yes, because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a steering failure, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to fix steering rack.

Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the bumps in the roads, bumps when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a lot and needs proper care.

• there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beating in the steering wheel;
• the steering wheel began to spin harder;
• when turning the steering wheel, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
• power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
• there were unusual sounds during the operation of the power steering.

Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite complicated - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.

A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, o-rings, bushings, as well as corrugations, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. The tool box should contain: a special octagonal wrench, tools for removing bearings and pliers for mounting the retaining ring. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on a flyover or inspection ditch.

This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the gear shaft of the steering rack.

1. Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the steering rods from the steering rack
2. Unscrew the bottom plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove retaining ring and knock out shaft.
5. Remove the bottom seal
6. Remove the locking pin blocking the upper gland.
7. Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic sleeve from it.
9. Pull out the stuffing box, plug, remove the spring, clamping mechanism.

1. After applying a special lubricant, install the inner oil seal (spring down).
2. Insert the rail into the housing.
3. Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
4. Install the plug, not forgetting to fix it with wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the gear shaft.
6. Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (previously lubricated).
7. Install the upper seal, install the circlip.
8. Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
9. Install and tighten clamping mechanism, spring and plug.

Further installation takes place in the reverse order.

As seen, do-it-yourself steering rack repair quite within the power of a person familiar with the repair in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks are subject to self-repair, which are much more common than their modern counterpart - an electronic steering rack. The latter needs a special setting, the fuss with which is best left to professionals.

A steering malfunction is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitching of the steering wheel on rough roads. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing the old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do this.

WD40

1. A set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
2. Tip remover.
3. Hammer and thin screwdriver.
4. Liquid key.
5. Rags.
6. Wooden supports.

Steering rack and tips

1. Before starting work, we install the car on a level place and block the parking brake. For reliability, place bricks under the rear wheels. After fixing the car, go to the front.
2. We put the steering wheel in the neutral position.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts one by one.

Loosen wheel nuts

When all the work has been done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. Thus, you will free access to the steering tips, which will make it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over with a solution of WD (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding rust, we move into the engine compartment and free access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be prevented by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips together with the steering wheel, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Steering tip puller

Pliers remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and we put the upper part of the finger on the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and with a hammer blow we knock out the tip from the rack mount.

Tip removal

Steering cardan lock bolt

• We loosen the fasteners of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and lift up the trim so that nothing is in your way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and to release it will be necessary to unscrew only one nut.
• We return under the hood and turn off the nuts securing the steering clamps.
• The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, begin, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can’t remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck.Take a hammer and tap lightly on it.
• When you have completely disconnected all the fasteners, carefully pull the steering rack through the hole in the wheel arch space. In order to remove it smoothly, you will have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft fits into the recess. In which direction to turn, be guided by the place.

Rail dismantling

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you do all the work with an assistant.