DIY ipsum steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ipsum steering rack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).

Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside along the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.

11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.

12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.

Video (click to play).

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. )

For left hand drive

Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

It's just that when I was sorting out the rail, the verdict was announced that the current is coming to a kicker with one thrust, and when I went to make a descent, I was told that the full kicker had already arrived, and the knock strains me and the topic of the starter reassured me with a decision))). Yes, and I try not to screw up the typewriter))))

Comrades, advice is needed - a strange quiet knock “knock-knock” “knock-knock” knock appeared in front. the car is coasting at low speed, the steering wheel is left and right, the car sways a little and “he” appears that this knock is both left and right. Quite recently, I replaced everything that was possible on the chassis, I began to sin on the steering rods.
can they tap so quietly and unpleasantly?

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When installing, after setting the wheels straight ahead, “open” the ignition switch and turning the steering wheel now to the right into a straight position - I throw on the cardan.

I check the number of turns left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.

Also, do not forget to unfasten the boot latches, it will look something like this: When working, follow safety precautions. And it's better to work together. To remove the steering rack, do the following: Unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.

When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement "away from you", keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not bump your fingers, oh, how many of them were broken In red and yellow circles, those bolts which must be unscrewed on the dorestyle.

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it. Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

WD40

Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
Tip remover.
Hammer and thin screwdriver.
Liquid key.
Rags.
Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..

The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and start preparing for the installation of a new one. Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

Installing a new steering rack

Clean all seats with a brush and sandpaper. Coat the landing pins with grease or graphite grease.
Before installing a new rail, you need to open the plugs and fill the holes with lithol.
Now we put the rail into the engine compartment. This is done in the reverse order of removal. Rotate it carefully around the axis so as not to damage the mechanisms and wiring.
We put the rail on the studs, put on the clamps and attach the nuts.

When connecting the spline part with the steering "worm", you will need an assistant. One guides from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the passenger compartment. The main thing is that the groove on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the fixing bolt.

At the last stage, you need to tighten the stud nuts. This must be done sequentially, first twisting them a little and then tightening them to the limit.
The rail is installed, we put on the tips, wrap them up and install the wheels.

Be sure to adjust the toe-out after installation.

Before starting work, watch the video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:

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Unscrewing the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe 4 pcsput a mark on the steering universal joint before removing and unscrewingunscrewing the steering rods with a gas wrench No. 1removed steering rack from the carfurther photo of the disassembled steering rack1.Plastic bushing that breaks in the steering rack
2.the metal washer that holds the plastic sleeve to pull it out, you had to first fill in the WD, then drill it from the side with a thin drill to pull it out
3. manufactured wrench to unscrew the nut under No. 4
4. I unscrewed the nut with an oil seal with a homemade wrench No. 3 (before unscrewing the nut, you need to remove the three retainers, otherwise spoil the thread on the nut, which I did safely and spoiled the thread)
5. Clamping sleeve for hexagon 17 to unscrew the adjusting sleeve, used a bolt with a nut and a spanner wrench
6. a boot which is put on the shaft No. 7 and closes the nut No. 4 to prevent dirt from getting
7.the shaft that moves the steering rod No. 8
8.steering rod all rusty + a little greasefurther in the photo you can see the steering rod cleaned of rust and greasephoto of a plastic sleeve and a metal washer in order to pull out the sleeve, it was necessary to break it.
drilled Removing the cross beam on Toyota Ipsum It will also be useful to read to anyone who is going to change the front suspension arms, steering rack, salenblocks in the levers, steering universal joint.First, briefly about the levers. I would not recommend removing the beam for this operation, as it is written in the book, because You will hardly be able to "knock out the sleeve with a mandrel", because a bushing 0.5 mm thick was slightly welded to the gland and I still had to bend the edge of the beam.
Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

In general, I would not remove the beam in order to suffer and dig out this bushing, and then without bending back to insert the new bushing. Those. the cost of not bending the edge of the beam is high. When replacing salenblocks (levers), buy the bushing immediately, reuse of the old one is unlikely.
I decided to replace salenblocks on my own. Of course, it was easier to buy a complete lever, but we are not looking for easy ways :-). As a result, I drilled out the old salenblock, sawed the outer ring. It turned out to be a simple way for the Sami to take out an old slanblock in artisanal conditions. Perhaps, if there is something to warm up the lever, then it would be possible to remove the salenblock and so on, and it would be easier to insert a new one on a hot one. The new salenblock was inserted using the cold press fit method in a vice. A sledgehammer is unlikely to be able to hammer him there on a cold one.
By the way, I changed the first salenblock without removing the beams. The reason for the removal of the beam is that I found a broken off anti-roll bar bolt - this was the reason for knocking on the suspension! By this time, I had already despaired of looking for the cause and began a methodical replacement of suspension parts.

Removing the beam:
Tool. A complete set of socket and ring wrenches from 10 to 19, a split wrench for 17 (unscrew the nut on the power steering tube), a universal puller (for steering rods), a hammer, three jacks + stands, a pipe as an extension to the keys (170N / m is for you not a joke:-)). If you are going to press the salen block into the lever, you will need a powerful vice.Everything is done from below, so the presence of a pit or lift is highly desirable.

We begin to disassemble. I could not remove the muffler, as it is written in the book. I was unable to unscrew the two bolts between the front pipe and the one that goes further back. As a result, I unscrewed two bolts with springs, two bolts of the "support" of the front pipe and a safety cable. He pushed the pipe aside.

We deal with the helmsman. We unscrew the steering tips and pull them off with a puller using a puller. This operation did not cause any particular problems for me. As written in the book, I unscrewed the anti-roll bars.

We climb into the salon and loosen the steering gimbal bolt.

We climb under the car and unscrew the steering gimbal bolt.

The whole cardan mechanism is knocked up with a hammer. We turn off the power steering high pressure pipe with a split wrench. Here I got a puncture, I safely tore off the edges of the nut, in the end I had to contrive without removing this pipe. We must disconnect the return hose. When removing the hoses, immediately take care of where and how to drain the power steering fluid.

I don't know if I need to or not, but I loosened the longitudinal beam bolts. Jacked up the engine and gearbox. Unscrewed 2 nuts and 2 bolts securing the rear engine mount. Unscrewed all the bolts securing the cross member and levers. Here, along the way, one cunning bolt was discovered. About which it is not written in the book - a clamp for attaching the power steering tube (see photo - this is a view from the side of the left wheel). Because of it, the structure "beam + rail + stabilizer + levers" did not go down.

Oh-oh-ps and this whole structure slipped off the longitudinal beam and fell on you. I estimate the weight of this structure at 30-40 kg.

Unscrewed 4 bolts of the steering rack. I threw the rail back onto the longitudinal beam. We remove the beam with levers to the "light of God".

Assembly subtleties:
1. When pushing back the crossbeam behind the longitudinal one, you need to put something in the spacer between the longitudinal beam and the engine.
2. When tightening the steering cardan it is desirable to lubricate it and possibly "stretch" it. I did it this way: I started screwing the bolt from the back side, and put a washer in the cut.
3. I did not put marks on the steering cardan. I kept the steering and wheels roughly straight. So that the steering wheel stood straight, I just took it off and put it on correctly, since I had already worked out the operation.

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If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Toyota Ipsum, you need to:

1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

Having problems in the steering rack of TOYOTA IPSUM? For urgent diagnostics and repairs, please contact our car service in Moscow. We will professionally and quickly repair the steering rack of a Toyota Ipsum or any other car, since the repair of steering racks and power steering is our main specialization.

Toyota Ipsum was produced by the Japanese company TOYOTA from 1995 until 2009. This is a 5-door compact van that can have two or three rows of seats and can accommodate from 5 to 7 passengers. We repair rails for the entire model range of the TOYOTA brand, you get guarantees for all types of work performed.

Repair of the steering rack and the power steering pump is carried out in our company using specialized equipment. During the repair, our craftsmen use only original components and spare parts from manufacturers such as ZF; Smi; TRW; NSK; Koyo; Mando, etc.

The cost of repairing a Toyota steering rack or repairing a power steering depends on the amount of work.The larger the amount of work, the higher the price, respectively. So, replacing bushings and oil seals, as well as Teflon rings, is the simplest and most inexpensive job.

Next in complexity are such types of work as grinding and polishing, chrome plating of the steering shaft. The distributor sleeve is more expensive and, finally, a complete replacement of the steering shaft with a new unit. If you choose a remanufactured unit, replacing the TOYOTA IPSUM steering rack will cost you much less.

Whatever type of work you need, the masters of our center will do their job efficiently and with guarantees for you. We pay special attention to diagnostics of steering racks, since the quality of repair depends on competent diagnostics by 50%.

Hello dear motorists! This will not be about fighting, this is your favorite car, but the tactics of servicing the steering should be developed by you.

During the operation of the vehicle, its steering mechanism is subject to gradual wear, which can lead to failure of the steering system. In no case should this be allowed, since failure of the steering is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

More correctly on your part, it will regularly conduct a technical inspection of the machine in order to identify potential malfunctions in a timely manner. In the course of such an inspection, the backlash of the steering wheel rotation, the integrity of the steering mechanism: the steering gear, the steering rack are necessarily checked.

If you notice symptoms indicating a possible steering malfunction, it is worth considering how to repair the steering rack.

And, as soon as you decide to repair the steering rack with your own hands, just get acquainted with the procedure using the example of repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 car. Technological operations are, in principle, the same. With the exception of taking into account the design features of the steering rack on cars of different brands.

It is advisable to carry out the process of repairing the steering mechanism with an assistant, since it will be somewhat difficult for one to disassemble and assemble the steering rack.

Before starting work, you need to make a purchase of equipment for repairing steering racks, consisting of a steering rack repair kit, a corrugation, a bearing on the gear shaft and plus - a small tube of Litol grease.

Necessary tools for repairing steering racks: special 17 octagonal wrench, tools for handling bearings, including special pliers for mounting the circlip and bearing puller.

In addition, you will need a standard set of wrenches. The whole procedure for repairing the steering rack with your own hands, it will be much more convenient for you to perform using a viewing hole or overpass.

Unpin the nuts on the steering pins, then press the pins out of the holes in the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
Unscrew the locking bolt on the spline located at the pedal assembly.
Using a 13-point head, unscrew a pair of nuts that hold the steering gear against the car body.
Remove the brackets of the mechanism.
Disconnect the steering shaft and drive gear, jack up the right side of the machine and pull the steering box out through the wheel well.
Unscrew the bolts on the steering rods using a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel (required to bend the edges of the lock plate).
Remove the connecting and retaining plates and disconnect the tie rods.
Remove the rubber mount and the protective cover.
Dismantle the rail.
After disassembly, flush the crankcase of the mechanism and press a new bearing from the repair kit into it.
Lubricate the gears with Litol and assemble the assembly in reverse order.
After completing the assembly, adjust the gap between the nut and the stop to 0.12 mm.

Thus, you, on your own, made the restoration of the steering rack, which takes about two hours of time.

In general, this procedure can be assessed as repair work of average complexity. Such repairs are quite possible for amateur performance.

It is only important to have the necessary locksmith skills, patience, perseverance in achieving this goal.

Carrying out car repairs on your own allows you not only to reduce the financial costs of its maintenance, but also makes it possible to learn more about the design features of the components of a modern car, feel freer and more confident, being alone with your car.

The steering rack in the car plays an important role. She is almost the main responsible element in the issue of safety when driving.

The main function of the steering rack of any car is to organize the rotation of the car. The rack may be present in those vehicles where there is both power steering, and in those where it is not. Since it is the main connecting link between the steering wheel and the wheels, then, of course, the safety of movement in a car depends on its condition. Therefore, the diagnosis of the steering rack must be approached most responsibly, as well as its repair.

It is known that virtually all components and assemblies are subject to wear in a vehicle. In this, a design such as a steering rack is not inferior. But how to understand that on your car it has begun to fail or has already become a carrier of significant malfunctions?

There are several signs that indicate a problem in this area, for example:

1. The appearance of a characteristic knock, which is transmitted even through the steering wheel.

2. Difficulty turning the steering wheel, you have to make a lot of effort to make a turn.

3. The emergence of extraneous noise and sounds in the power steering pump.

4. The appearance of a pronounced backlash, which is especially evident at the moment of turning.

5. Power steering started to leak.

The occurrence of one of these signs indicates that your car needs emergency assistance, specifically, the steering rack needs to be repaired.

In order, for example, to replace the anthers and oil seals, it is necessary, first of all, to remove it. As you know, the steering rack is attached to the car body with three bolts. It will not be possible to unscrew them with a simple wrench; an extension cord is definitely needed to increase the force. Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

Next, we loosen the spline fasteners of the steering universal joint. And the bolt, which directly tightens the spline connection, is completely unscrewed. Next, we remove the steering rack through the right wheel arch. To make this procedure not difficult, we first install the car on jacks on both sides and remove the front wheels. For ease of removal in the process, it is necessary to twist the rail and raise its left side.

In order to remove the anthers, you need to bend the antennae at the lock nut and unscrew the steering rod using two keys. After this procedure, we go to unscrewing the tubes from the rail and the regulator, after which we dismantle the regulator body with a spanner wrench, which is fixed with two castellated bolts.

Now comes the most important thing. Before finally removing the body, it is advisable to combine all the marks on the steering bipod, plastic cover and body, fix the gear rack in this position and fix it forever in your memory.

After all the bolts have already been unscrewed, you can pull the regulator towards you and press the toothed rack downward. This procedure allows you to remove the steering rack very quickly and easily.

Further, it is necessary to remove the sealed nut from the end of the structure. To unscrew it, you will have to clamp the rail itself in a vice, since it is tightened quite well. After unscrewing it by lightly tapping it through the wood with a hammer, we knock out the rail. Together with it, an oil seal is knocked out, which needs to be replaced.With the help of an extension cord, carefully and gently, remove it from the side of the regulator.

Installing new oil seals is a fairly straightforward procedure. To do this, first grease the rail well with oil, then put on the inner oil seal and, with a slight movement of the hammer, hammer the rail back until it stops. The oil seal itself and the inside of the cylinder are best lubricated with plenty of oil.

Video (click to play).

The assembly of the steering rack is carried out in the reverse order. The main thing is not to forget to lubricate the bearing of the regulator with lithol and to lock such a connection as a rail-thrust, and also when installing the rail in place, be sure to align the previously installed marks on the bipod and splines.

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