DIY ipsum steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ipsum steering rack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).

Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside around the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.

11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.

12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.

Video (click to play).

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. )

For left hand drive

Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

It's just that when I was sorting out the rail, the verdict was announced that the current is coming to a kicker with one thrust, and when I went to make a descent, I was told that the full kicker had already arrived, and the knock strains me and the topic of the starter reassured me with a decision))). Yes, and I try not to screw up the typewriter))))

Comrades, advice is needed - a strange, quiet knock “knock-knock” “knock-knock” knock appeared in front. the car is coasting at low speed, the steering wheel is left and right, the car sways a little and “he” appears that this knock is both left and right. Quite recently, I replaced everything that was possible on the chassis, I began to sin on the steering rods.
can they tap so quietly and unpleasantly?

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and there was also a completely unpleasant "clatter" in the steering wheel itself, the feeling that this clatter was straight on the airbag, took off the pillow, removed all the levers of the wipers and turn signals, got to the bearing, which is rolled on the shaft, but everything seems to be holding on dead there. a plastic sleeve, which I changed below on the shaft. Kardanchik, which in the cabin can not so "blur". but the sound is right at the very top. already broke my head, what could it be

An innovative idea allows you to cheaply repair the steering rack with your own hands. Those who wish are given the opportunity to learn from experience and, using available materials, improve this part of the mechanism of their car.

This video provides information on the innovative idea and the use of materials at home when troubleshooting steering rack problems at home. A non-standard approach to eliminating extraneous sounds while driving, delights in its simplicity and results. This solution will allow you to forget about the knocking steering rack for a long time.

For everyone who wants to watch the original repair of the steering rack with their own hands, the video clip provides such an opportunity. Troubleshooting steps for the device that controls the movement of the wheels and the direction of the vehicle include:

unscrewing the bolts and squeezing out the clamps with the steering wheel unscrewed with a 22 mm spanner wrench;
removing the bushings and unscrewing the bolt on the steering column in the passenger compartment in the area of the pedals with a 14 mm wrench;
removing clamps from the steering rack and removing the device through the wheel;
releasing the steering rack from thin clamps using an awl and a thin screwdriver and an anther;
preparation of several pieces of plastic from watering cans, cans and other products to fill the free space between the metal rail body and the support sleeve.The size of the blanks must correspond to the length and width of the recess for the sleeve to move;
inserting blanks inside the steering rack until it stops against the bushing, among which the last element should be the most rigid;
checking the free movement of the sleeve over the plastic, tightly installed in the rack cavity;
installation of the steering rack in place.

This solution eliminates the knock of the support sleeve for a long period of time.

Communities ›Toyota Club› Blog ›Steering rack repair photo report. Wonderful! I also need to do that. Hands do not reach I will do it in the spring).

Repair of a steering rack TOYOTA COROLLA with EUR. As I do: unbuckling the lower cardan in the straight steering position and removing the keys from the ignition switch (the left hand holds the steering wheel, the right one removes the cardan), I twist the steering wheel to the left until it “closes”.

Toyota Corolla RoboJapanese ›Logbook› Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on Toyota Corolla. Before carrying out repairs, purchase a Toyota Corolla steering rack repair kit.

Obsk the stretcher beam Well, the first stage is over, it is more interesting further. Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail in practice does not help out for long and costs a lot. Further, the bushing needs to be modified: This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease.

Car steering racks Steering Toyota Corolla How to repair the steering rack on your own Toyota Corolla photo report Full and detailed description of the rather complex process of repairing the steering rack with the creation of a new bushing

LABELS for search engines: TOYOTA COROLLA TOYOTA COROLLA STEERING RACK REPAIR STEERING RACK E12 E12 Hello everyone again! So the promised photo report on the repair of the steering rack is ready. Let the “old-timers” forgive me for repetitions, but in the photo report I have collected all the information necessary to repair the rail, starting with the drawing of the bushing and ending with the final adjustment. All "landmarks" right-left, front-rear are given relative to the driver.

All photos, including the special keys and bushings, are posted in the photo gallery. If the “followers” have any questions, then before asking them, read the previous messages. Maybe there are already answers for example: We need a special key for disassembling and adjusting the steering rack. And the steering rack bushing, made according to this drawing or ordered by the forum member Makar: Dimensions 24.9 mm; 31.1 mm; 32 mm must be made with the maximum possible accuracy and minimum roughness.

Ideally, the marks from the turning tool should be virtually indistinguishable. I would like to draw your attention to the dimensions of the sleeve, namely the diameters of 24.9 mm and 31.1 mm. Moreover, the utility of decreasing the inside diameter and increasing the outside diameter by 0. Therefore, STRICTLY adhere to the dimensions of the bushing as shown in the drawing. Further, the bushing must be reworked: 6 longitudinal cuts are made on the bushing with a hacksaw for metal, with a depth of approx. Then, with a clerical knife, we expand the cuts and give them a wedge shape, see.

We make one cut over the entire length of the sleeve and expand it by approx. This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease. It should look something like this: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery. The first step is to remove the steering shaft cardan, while remembering that the so-called “snail” SRS AIRBAG is installed in the steering column, designed for 5 full revolutions: If exceeded, it will break and the “SRS” light will turn on.

When installing, after setting the wheels straight ahead, “open” the ignition switch and turning the steering wheel now to the right into a straight position - I throw on the cardan.

I check the number of turns left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.

Also, do not forget to unfasten the boot latches, it will look something like this: When working, follow safety precautions. And it's better to work together. To remove the steering rack, do the following: Unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.

When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement "away from you", keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not bump your fingers, oh, how many of them were broken In red and yellow circles, those bolts which must be unscrewed on the dorestyle.

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it. Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

WD40

Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
Tip remover.
Hammer and thin screwdriver.
Liquid key.
Rags.
Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..

The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and start preparing for the installation of a new one. Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

Installing a new steering rack

Clean all seats with a brush and sandpaper. Coat the seating pins with grease or graphite grease.
Before installing a new rail, you need to open the plugs and fill the holes with lithol.
Now we put the rail into the engine compartment. This is done in the reverse order of removal. Rotate it carefully around the axis so as not to damage the mechanisms and wiring.
We put the rail on the studs, put on the clamps and attach the nuts.

When connecting the spline part with the steering "worm", you will need an assistant. One guides from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the passenger compartment. The main thing is that the groove on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the fixing bolt.

At the last stage, you need to tighten the stud nuts. This must be done sequentially, first twisting them a little and then tightening them to the limit.
The rail is installed, we put on the tips, wrap them up and install the wheels.

Be sure to adjust the toe-out after installation.

Before starting work, watch the video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:

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Unscrewing the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe 4 pcsput a mark on the steering universal joint before removing and unscrewingunscrewing the steering rods with a gas wrench No. 1removed steering rack from the carfurther photo of the disassembled steering rack1.Plastic bushing that breaks in the steering rack
2.the metal washer that holds the plastic sleeve to pull it out, you had to first fill in the WD, then drill it from the side with a thin drill to pull it out
3. manufactured wrench to unscrew the nut under No. 4
4. I unscrewed the nut with an oil seal with a homemade wrench No. 3 (before unscrewing the nut, you need to remove three retainers, otherwise spoil the thread on the nut, which I safely did and spoiled the thread)
5. Clamping sleeve for hexagon 17 to unscrew the adjusting sleeve, used a bolt with a nut and a spanner wrench
6. a boot which is put on the shaft No. 7 and closes the nut No. 4 to prevent dirt from getting
7.the shaft that moves the steering rod No. 8
8.steering rod all rusty + a little greasefurther in the photo you can see the steering rod cleaned of rust and greasephoto of a plastic sleeve and a metal washer in order to pull out the sleeve, it was necessary to break it.
drilled Removing the cross beam on Toyota Ipsum It will also be useful to read to anyone who is going to change the front suspension arms, steering rack, salenblocks in the levers, steering universal joint.First, briefly about the levers. I would not recommend removing the beam for this operation, as it is written in the book, because You will hardly be able to "knock out the sleeve with a mandrel", because a bushing 0.5 mm thick was slightly welded to the gland and I still had to bend the edge of the beam.
Image - DIY Ipsum Steering Rack Repair

In general, I would not remove the beam in order to suffer and dig out this bushing, and then without bending back to insert the new bushing. Those. the cost of not bending the edge of the beam is high. When replacing salenblocks (levers), buy the bushing immediately, reuse of the old one is unlikely.
I decided to replace salenblocks on my own. Of course, it was easier to buy a complete lever, but we are not looking for easy ways :-). As a result, I drilled out the old salenblock, sawed the outer ring. It turned out to be a simple way for the Sami to take out an old slanblock in artisanal conditions. Perhaps, if there is something to warm up the lever, then it would be possible to remove the salenblock and so on, and it would be easier to insert a new one on a hot one. The new salenblock was inserted using the cold press fit method in a vice. A sledgehammer is unlikely to be able to hammer him there on a cold one.
By the way, I changed the first salenblock without removing the beams. The reason for the removal of the beam is that I found a broken off anti-roll bar bolt - this was the reason for knocking on the suspension! By this time, I had already despaired of looking for the cause and began a methodical replacement of suspension parts.

Removing the beam:
Tool. A complete set of socket and ring wrenches from 10 to 19, a split wrench for 17 (unscrew the nut on the power steering tube), a universal puller (for steering rods), a hammer, three jacks + stands, a pipe as an extension to the keys (170N / m is for you not a joke:-)). If you are going to press the salen block into the lever, you will need a powerful vice.Everything is done from below, so the presence of a pit or lift is highly desirable.

We begin to disassemble. I could not remove the muffler, as it is written in the book. I was unable to unscrew the two bolts between the front pipe and the one that goes further back. As a result, I unscrewed two bolts with springs, two bolts of the "support" of the front pipe and a safety cable. He pushed the pipe aside.

We deal with the helmsman. We unscrew the steering tips and pull them off with a puller using a puller. This operation did not cause any particular problems for me. As written in the book, I unscrewed the anti-roll bars.

We climb into the salon and loosen the steering gimbal bolt.

We climb under the car and unscrew the steering gimbal bolt.

The whole cardan mechanism is knocked up with a hammer. We turn off the power steering high pressure pipe with a split wrench. Here I got a puncture, I safely tore off the edges of the nut, in the end I had to contrive without removing this pipe. We must disconnect the return hose. When removing the hoses, immediately take care of where and how to drain the power steering fluid.

I don't know if I need to or not, but I loosened the longitudinal beam bolts. Jacked up the engine and gearbox. Unscrewed 2 nuts and 2 bolts securing the rear engine mount. Unscrewed all the bolts securing the cross member and levers. Here, along the way, one cunning bolt was discovered. About which it is not written in the book - a clamp for attaching the power steering tube (see photo - this is a view from the side of the left wheel). Because of it, the structure "beam + rail + stabilizer + levers" did not go down.

Oh-oh-ps and this whole structure slipped off the longitudinal beam and fell on you. I estimate the weight of this structure at 30-40 kg.

Unscrewed 4 bolts of the steering rack. I threw the rail back onto the longitudinal beam. We remove the beam with levers to the "light of God".

Assembly subtleties:
1. When pushing back the crossbeam behind the longitudinal one, you need to put something in the spacer between the longitudinal beam and the engine.
2. When tightening the steering cardan it is desirable to lubricate it and possibly "stretch" it. I did it this way: I started screwing the bolt from the back side, and put a washer in the cut.
3. I did not put marks on the steering cardan. I kept the steering and wheels roughly straight. So that the steering wheel stood straight, I just took it off and put it on correctly, since I had already worked out the operation.

If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Toyota Ipsum, you need to:

1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

Having problems in the steering rack of TOYOTA IPSUM? For urgent diagnostics and repairs, please contact our car service in Moscow. We will professionally and quickly repair the steering rack of a Toyota Ipsum or any other car, since the repair of steering racks and power steering is our main specialization.

Toyota Ipsum was produced by the Japanese company TOYOTA from 1995 until 2009. This is a 5-door compact van that can have two or three rows of seats and can accommodate from 5 to 7 passengers. We repair rails for the entire model range of the TOYOTA brand, you get guarantees for all types of work performed.

Repair of the steering rack and the power steering pump is carried out in our company using specialized equipment. During the repair, our craftsmen use only original components and spare parts from manufacturers such as ZF; Smi; TRW; NSK; Koyo; Mando, etc.

The cost of repairing a Toyota steering rack or repairing a power steering depends on the amount of work. The larger the amount of work, the higher the price, respectively. So, replacing bushings and oil seals, as well as Teflon rings, is the simplest and most inexpensive job.

The next in complexity are such types of work as grinding and polishing, chrome plating of the steering shaft. The distributor sleeve is more expensive and, finally, a complete replacement of the steering shaft with a new unit. If you choose a remanufactured unit, replacing the TOYOTA IPSUM steering rack will cost you much less.

Whatever type of work you need, the masters of our center will do their job efficiently and with guarantees for you. We pay special attention to diagnostics of steering racks, since the quality of repair depends on a competent diagnostics by 50%.

Hello dear motorists! It will not be about fighting, this is your favorite car, but the tactics of servicing the steering should be developed by you.

During the operation of the vehicle, its steering mechanism is subject to gradual wear, which can lead to failure of the steering system. In no case should this be allowed, since failure of the steering is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

More correctly on your part, it will regularly conduct a technical inspection of the machine in order to identify potential malfunctions in a timely manner. In the course of such an inspection, the backlash of the steering wheel rotation, the integrity of the steering mechanism: the steering gear, the steering rack are necessarily checked.

If you notice symptoms that indicate a probable malfunction of the steering, it is worth considering how to repair the steering rack.

And, as soon as you decide to repair the steering rack with your own hands, just get acquainted with the procedure using the example of repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 car. Technological operations are, in principle, the same. With the exception of taking into account the design features of the steering rack on cars of different brands.

It is advisable to carry out the process of repairing the steering mechanism with an assistant, since it will be somewhat difficult for one to disassemble and assemble the steering rack.

Before starting work, you need to make a purchase of equipment for repairing steering racks, consisting of a steering rack repair kit, a corrugation, a bearing on the gear shaft and plus - a small tube of Litol grease.

Necessary tools for repairing steering racks: special 17 octagonal wrench, tools for handling bearings, including special pliers for mounting the circlip and bearing puller.

In addition, you will need a standard set of wrenches. The whole procedure for repairing the steering rack with your own hands, it will be much more convenient for you to perform using a viewing hole or overpass.

Unpin the nuts on the steering pins, then press the pins out of the holes in the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
Unscrew the locking bolt on the spline located at the pedal assembly.
Using a 13-point head, unscrew a pair of nuts that hold the steering gear against the car body.
Remove the brackets of the mechanism.
Disconnect the steering shaft and drive gear, jack up the right side of the machine and pull the steering box out through the wheel well.
Unscrew the bolts on the steering rods using a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel (required to bend the edges of the lock plate).
Remove the connecting and retaining plates and disconnect the tie rods.
Remove the rubber mount and the protective cover.
Dismantle the rail.
After disassembly, flush the crankcase of the mechanism and press a new bearing from the repair kit into it.
Lubricate the gears with Litol and assemble the assembly in reverse order.
After completing the assembly, adjust the gap between the nut and the stop to 0.12 mm.