DIY steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack of Karism from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Automobile:
Carisma 1.6 MPI
Body:
Sedan, restyling
Transmission:
Automatic transmission
Year of issue:
2003

Hi all!
This report was created in the topic Rake flowed by our teammate alexandr86, I did not delete his posts, but just copied everything into a new topic.
Everything is copied in its original form.
Great respect to Alexander for the work done.

Regarding the photo report, I will try, but just how to collect it) At first, the right boot broke, judging by the traces, it flowed out in order, and when the lubricant began to be disassembled, it turned out nowhere, everything was washed out by the hydraulic fluid. When I pulled out the rod and I don't know what the distributor (which distributes the hydraulic fluid in the cylinder) is called correctly, I broke my head how to change the plastic rings. only when the repair kit came it turned out that they were not plastic but made of dense rubber like (much more elastic).

The bearing that sits on the hundred side of the steering column mounting:

utL21XbiM6oHdgpRo4yHq6aawMdalcrJm6FrwHI4bzVA_39pD3kCfuFh3srgdP9fggFBfNqLb5yAPqWI0KWAcg __. jpg (1.28 MB) Number of downloads: 2915

Which is placed on the side of the steering rack:

iPz8dt8LBtfKIUHvDM98h8lW_GI3yiA_IQZB2UaQOnF5kx5KIW32WvLUf2JaHUr4CoPWFktKIBqVMb_NEqrANg __. jpg (1.4 megabytes) Number of downloads: 139

old open simple:

RdAUQTX2KE_1CKNM_mRuO2PcSPfVuvETAZO6br_DCJqiteiwEb_1P_q5Wed3LH468Zlj3ihmEkcuox97SwGZmA __. Jpg (1.43 megabytes) Number of downloads: 134

Oil seal there are 2 of them that are inserted into the cylinder

5Lqe6GzO_TI6ZcuIcfw0bkyop_GVt2drgJn9sEsoxYIbwErQFxdhRItcSqfNVGPdB7Yup5Ab0_sbR_Js4_bNLg __. Jpg (903.58 kilobytes) Amount

The old one who pulled out of the cylinder

os18cq4T77OVaWYFUVi0wMmyHpJM33yEBJYVRgdjhDXeygGvGPiwGDyGgxDQMlQ34pTGRRaz2UXq_4ZvBtggnw __. jpg (1.41 megabytes) Number of downloads: 277

There is one more nuance when pulling out the oil seal: The oil seal does not rest against the cylinder body, but against the washer, it is designed to pull the oil seal out with a special tool (there is a video in YouTube video called “Steering racks Repair of steering racks in Kiev”) without it, just a screwdriver, the washer remains inside.
The fluid for the power steering took such an advertisement, of course, everywhere I have such oil washes well, only expensive.

jpjY5PC6_Awgn9iOcUdtll_FeAnRYSX_RK5oZbGdGxDz5ohlRP_1H8YK_fl_rD3ERvSZxO6dWB8NWZmaeGWPoQ __. jpg (945.6 kilobytes: 176 downloads)

While all that is today, I'll go further and pick and then throw off another photo.
Links to roller bearing USA INA FC65769 found:

so far, everything that I found according to information from the Internet of this company is no longer there, it was bought by FAG, in general, the link below:

Video (click to play).

I also ask you to transfer a small final addition to the main one.
Yesterday I assembled the rail almost to the end, it remains to put on the tips (when dismantling in the direction of the machine, by the way, you need to remove the left tip in order to pull out the rail). In general, I collected the entire photo report in one folder, and there is also a little video there is a link below:

___.________________________ Mitsubishi_Carisma_1.9 ___. Jpg (1.25 megabytes) Number of downloads: 205

Steering rack cylinder oil seal Mitsubishi Carisma 1.9 td.

_______________________________ Mitsubishi_Carisma_1.9 ___ .. jpg (1.31 MB) Number of downloads: 216

Bearing puller

_____________________________. jpg (1.69 megabytes) Number of downloads: 148

20150416_205659.jpg (1.49 megabytes) Number of downloads: 186

20150416_205740.jpg (1.55 MB) Number of downloads: 153

20150416_205831.jpg (1.11 MB) Number of downloads: 157

20150416_205838.jpg (1.4 megabytes) Number of downloads: 147

20150416_211218.jpg (2.18 MB) Number of downloads: 131

20150414_205307.jpg (1.49 megabytes) Number of downloads: 131

20150414_212940.jpg (1.4 MB) Number of downloads: 123

20150416_205544.jpg (1.46 MB) Number of downloads: 127

20150416_205552.jpg (1.75 MB) Number of downloads: 117

20150416_205622.jpg (1.56 MB) Number of downloads: 111

20150329_171731__1_.jpg (1.38 MB) Number of downloads: 112

Video.
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I also found the numbers of the oil seals for those who have rings on the stem and spool intact in existential terms:
Working cylinder oil seals:
Internal Hi-Drive 465.PS238
Outdoor Hi-Drive 465.PS239
Spool oil seals:
Lower Hi-Drive 465.PS387
Upper Hi-Drive 555.HD114
Then, when I put the rail in place, I will post another photo on the most "hemorrhoid" moments
Thanks to the author for the report!
Discussion topic: Rake flowed

Morning always comes after the night

Please do not be offended, I do not advise in a personal.

I changed the rail and front levers one month ago, no problem. The only thing, I did not take a photo.
First of all, you need a tool:
1. Set of heads and ratchet
2. Extension and ratchet cardan
3. A collar with a decent shoulder for unscrewing bolts by 19
4.Hydraulic split wrenches 14 and 17
5. Extension and cardan for heads
6. A puller of ball joints or a decent hammer (for an amateur)
7. Hydraulic fluid drain bucket
I also recommend using WD-40 or an equivalent before removing the steering gimbal.

The algorithm is as follows (I write from memory, there may be shortcomings):
1. Raise the car and remove the wheels (you can remove the calipers and brake discs)
2. Unscrew the nuts and dry the tips with a puller
3. Spray WD-40 on the steering gimbal, wait 5 minutes, unscrew 2 bolts by 12, while it is convenient to use an extension cord and gimbal, remove the gimbal from the steering rack upwards.
4. If there is a solenoid valve, unfasten the chip
5. We unscrew two bolts 12 from the left fastening of the rail, there is another bolt on top of the tin, you can not touch it - it does not interfere much, it will be enough to lift the tin, we also use an extension cord and a cardan for the upper bolt
6. We substitute the bucket and unscrew both tubes with split wrenches for 14 and 17 (with a decent probability of splashing with hydraulic fluid) and pour into the bucket
7. Unscrew the two bolts by 19. In this case, it is better to immediately use a good lever and not suffer as the tightening torque is decent.

Installation in reverse order

I also very well mastered the replacement of oil seals on the rail, the existing material has not yet been processed

I changed the rail and front levers one month ago, no problem. The only thing, I did not take a photo.
First of all, you need a tool:
1. Set of heads and ratchet
2. Extension and ratchet cardan
3. A collar with a decent shoulder for unscrewing bolts by 19
4. Split wrenches for hydraulics at 14 and 17
5. Extension and cardan for heads
6. A puller of ball joints or a decent hammer (for an amateur)
7. Hydraulic fluid drain bucket
I also recommend using WD-40 or an equivalent before removing the steering gimbal.

Installation in reverse order

I also very well mastered the replacement of oil seals on the rail, the existing material has not yet been processed

oooh
THANK YOU, it will come in handy for me: o) what would be superfluous not to twist, but how long? I just need to take boxing for a certain time, so as not to hang up after a working day and not leave the car there

in principle, I decided to change the rail because the rail was assembled, I took it purely from the steering rods (not the tips, but the rods themselves), and the slussar said that the salnik r / rails would “snotty” and the replacement would get in - 6-8 rubles, the rack assembly comes out cheaper (((
but since I’ll take off what kind of oil seal to change and where to get it?

but there is a scheme from fast or from the site that sells spare parts? I didn’t understand where it was and whether it needed to be unscrewed or whether it was necessary but it is possible not to unscrew something with a tin can?
how did you measure the length of the rods? it is clear that then to the collapse, but something like that needs to be set (((

To disassemble the steering gear, follow these steps in sequence.

Rice. 13.16.Steering gear: a - places where grease is applied; 1 - protective cover; 2 - the tip of the steering rod; 3 - lock nut (42 N • m); 4 - steering gear assembly

1. Remove the tip of the tie rod 2 (Fig. 13.16). To do this, first loosen the lock nut 3 of the tip, then unscrew the tip from the steering rod.

2. Loosen the clamps and remove the protective covers 1.

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following.

1. Adjust the total torque that must be applied to turn the steering gear drive gear by fixing the steering gear in a vice.

When installing the steering gear in a vice, clamp it only at the attachment points. Clamping the steering gear elsewhere can deform or damage the steering gear housing.

2. Place the staff in the center position. Tighten the rail stop cover to a torque of 15 N • m.

Rice. 13.14. Using a wrench (1) to check the total torque that must be applied to turn the steering gear

3. In the neutral position, turn the gear with a special wrench clockwise one turn in 4–6 s (see Fig. 13.14). Unscrew the rack stop cover by 30-60 ° and adjust the torque to the nominal value.

4. To check the total torque that must be applied to turn the drive gear, using a special wrench, rotate the steering gear within one turn for 4–6 s (Fig. 13.14). The nominal value is 0.6–1.3 N • m (deviation - 0.4 N • m).

In the process of adjustment, try to set the upper limit of the nominal value. Make sure there is no knocking or jamming when moving the staff.

If the adjustment does not work within the specified angle of rotation of the gear, then check or replace the parts of the stop and the cover of the rack stop.

5. After completing the adjustment, tighten the rack stop cover lock nut.

6. Fill the inside of the protective boot with multi-purpose grease.

7. Lubricate the sealing lip of the protective cover with ZM ATD # 8661 sealant.

Rice. 13.17. Using the special tool (1) to install the protective boot on the ball joint pin of the tie rod end and the place (s) to apply grease

8. Using a special tool, install a protective cover on the ball joint of the tie rod end (Fig. 13.17).

Rice. 13.18. Control dimension for the installation of the left and right ends of the steering rods: A = 184.5 mm; 1 - groove for installing the edge of the corrugated cover; 2 - lock nut

9. Screw the left and right ends of the steering rods to the size shown in fig. 13.18, and tighten the locknuts.

Good evening! approaching the house there was a hum when turning the steering wheel, when I got out of the car I found a stain of oil, looked under the hood on the right side of the rail all in oil and the boot was torn. What are the options, repairs or buying something else that I would not want.

sometimes buying is even better than doing. in our city the price for restoration starts from 9 to 13 kilo rubles

if the rake flowed, then the problem is in the oil seal, someone on the old forum tried to make a replacement, and after disassembling, changing, installing, the rake flowed again, he just bought another rake on the parsing.

The boot, by the way, has nothing to do with it, but it is necessary to change it.

recently repaired the rail, took a repair kit. while it does not flow.

what needs to be done to remove the rail? How is the repair kit installed? (what's in it)

Steering rack adjustment

Padawan

Group: STAR'vod
Posts: 116
Registration Date: 19 June 07
Gender: Male
City: East of the Moscow region

Quote from Karisma Club:

In order to adjust the steering rack, or rather remove the knock on it or reduce the steering wheel play (with working rods and tips), we need the following tools:
- a key for 11 (to unscrew the gearshift rod from the box side)
- hammer
- a file, or some kind of rod with a slight bend (for flaring the adjusting nut)

Further two specials. key that we make ourselves. In the first two photographs, a key made from a 15 mm head welded to a regular spanner wrench, and it should be noted that the total height of the key with a welded head should not exceed 13 mm (it may be a different size on restyles)

The second key is made of a 10 hexagon and welded to a regular 10 key, here the height of the finished key should not exceed 14 mm

In fact, I only needed one key for 10, since there is no locknut on our rail, but it is possible to turn the adjusting nut with one or the other key; from the experience of the work done, I liked the option with the head less.

Now let's move on to the adjustment itself.

Initially, we unscrew the gear shift rod from the gearbox side.

Then we move it to the right (in the direction of the car's movement), although it is possible to the left, but it was so inconvenient for me to turn the nut. After that, the steering rack body itself will be visible.

Having found the desired viewing angle, I saw such a picture, which indicates that there is no locknut on our rail, and that the nut will rotate not only with an internal hexagon, but also with the help of a regular head, which I ripped off the flaring so that adjustment could be made , but due to the limited space for working with keys, I adjusted it with a hexagon welded to a small key by 10.

The direction of rotation of the nut clockwise (looking in the direction of travel) will mean tightening the cracker to the shaft, which reduces knocking and play in the steering rack. You should avoid tightening the biscuit (as it happened with me, when the car was moving straight, everything was fine, but when leaving the turn the steering wheel bit a little) I got out of the situation as follows: I started the car and after each turn of the key to loosen the tightening of the adjusting nut, I checked how tight it was spinning steering wheel. From which it follows that this operation is best done together.

After adjusting the freedom of rotation of the steering wheel, it is necessary to flare the nut onto the steering rack body, for which I needed a regular file, although for convenience I slightly bent the place for planting the handle.

Flaring work must be carried out in those places where there are grooves in the steering rack, you will see them.

Well, that seems to be all, I have already left for four days and while the steering is behaving perfectly. Yes, by the way, I can add from myself that if there is an opportunity and desire, then lubricate the comb on the steering rack with lithol grease, graphite or something similar, and I assure you that the operation of the steering system will give you great pleasure.

Steering rack adjustment

Padawan

Group: STAR'vod
Posts: 116
Registration Date: 19 June 07
Gender: Male
City: East of the Moscow region

Quote from Karisma Club:

The second key is made of a 10 hexagon and welded to a regular 10 key, here the height of the finished key should not exceed 14 mm

Now let's move on to the adjustment itself.

Initially, we unscrew the gear shift rod from the gearbox side.

Flaring work must be carried out in those places where there are grooves in the steering rack, you will see them.

The hydraulic power steering gear (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part both for cars with hydraulic power steering and for cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the vehicle cannot be overestimated.

The parts of the steering rack wear out quickly enough, because take on the main part of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase hits potholes and holes in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.

To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be periodically carried out, which allows you to identify all faults at an early stage.

The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:

The presence of knocks in the gearbox, transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
An increase in the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
Extraneous noise arising during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
The presence of a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.

Steering rack flowing with power steering

Any of the listed symptoms signals a malfunction that must be eliminated immediately. Lack of timely work can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.

If a problem is found, the car can be handed over to a car service specialist or the steering rack can be repaired with your own hands. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.

Details

To fully repair the steering rack, you should have the following spare parts and tools on hand:

a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;

corrugation;
gear shaft;
bearing;
lubricating mixture.
octahedron key at 17;
tools for mounting and dismounting bearings;
set of wrenches.

For the highest quality repairs, it is advisable to use a flyover or inspection pit.

First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto an overpass or inspection pit, after which, with the help of jacks, the vehicle should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the ends of the steering rods, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer. The next stage consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns with the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the hydraulic power steering gearbox. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on parts during the movement of the car.

Photo instructions for dismantling:

The protection is unscrewed

Two tie rod bolts

The rods are removed

Unscrew the fastening of the clamps

Loosen the tie bolt

Removing the rubber boot.
Dismantle the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
Removing the lock nut securing the rack shaft clamping cup.
Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with gentle blows.
Dismantling the adjusting unit.
Removing the adjusting glass.
Removing the pressure piston.

Dismantling the steering rack

After the completion of work on the disassembly of the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from the oil and dirt deposited on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for the presence of mechanical damage arising during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in the reverse order.

There are no significant differences between repairing the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only bushings and compositions of fluids used to lubricate parts of the mechanism will be different.

After carrying out all the above-described work, it is recommended to carry out the diagnostic procedure for wheel alignment.

The total time it takes to repair the steering rack varies from two to three hours. These repair work refers to work of an average degree of complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out even a novice car enthusiast who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.

Installing the support sleeve

Cut the rubber bands

Remove the retaining ring from the gear shaft

Needle bearing is knocked out

Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:

The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient. Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads.This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.

When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of the steering rack.

The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.

Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.

The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.

The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.

The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.

The oil level in the power steering reservoir drops.

Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.

Almost all the signs from the list above do not directly indicate wear on the steering rack, so before repairing you need to make sure that the problem is in it.

Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.

Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.

For cars with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be an electric motor failure, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, a malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.

Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.

How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?

On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the play is.

Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing a rail for a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.

A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.

Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.

Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:

Install the front of the car on supports, remove the wheels.

Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).

Remove the heat shield of the rail.

For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.

Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).

Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.

Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).

Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).

Pressing out the steering tip with a puller

Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.

To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.

After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.

It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.

Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.

Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.

Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).

Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.

Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.

Pull out the rack rack.

Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.

The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack

Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.

The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.

Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear. Pay special attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, oil seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.

Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.

There should be no cracks, notches, chips or deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.

A common cause of knocking on the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scuffing. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.

Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through

Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.

Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.

Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.

After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.

Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster lock nut.

Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.

Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.

It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.

Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.

Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.

Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with power steering).

Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.

Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.

Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.

Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.

Tip: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.

After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:

The knocking and noises stopped.

The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.

The car handles well, holds the road confidently.

If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.

After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the wheel alignment at a car service or yourself.

Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.

Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in a garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.

Video (click to play).

The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems difficult, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.

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