Do-it-yourself Qashqai steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Qashqai steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

cat squirrel

Group: Users
Posts: 121
Registration: 17.6.2013

Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking on the steering
rail - I decided unambiguously to Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed
Found out for myself:

1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right!
2. Car if under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.)
3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money almost down the drain)
4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but it can afford.
And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.

Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing
rails, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans
DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. x Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) steering wheel they have
everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. – and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part.
Installed if you look at
many places, including on Note. I ordered this bushing at my own risk. 48128-ED00A.
1.5 waited, arrived.

Everything seems to be quiet, super.
There are questions, I will answer.
Pictures later.

Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16

Thumbnails of attached images

The latest modern technologies and excellent dynamics make the Nissan Qashqai a practical and comfortable car. Excellent handling in difficult urban conditions is provided by the steering system, coupled with the hydraulic booster. But nothing is eternal, and no one is immune from breakdowns. Even on such a perfect car, it is necessary to repair the Nissan Qashqai steering rack and other steering components.

Video (click to play).

To determine the cause of extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel, it is required to analyze in detail the conditions and circumstances of their occurrence.

It is necessary to understand the nature of the extraneous sound, to determine whether a creak appears when the steering wheel is turned in motion or in place. Noise can occur when the car enters a turn, if it is a turn, which one is left or right. An important factor is circumstances such as rough roads, high humidity, low temperatures and others. It will also help to find out the cause of the accompanying nuances of the occurrence of extraneous sounds - blows to the driver's steering wheel, the place of a knock, the steering wheel and others.

Often squeaks or shuffles due to rubbing of the steering wheel on the plastic of the steering column, poorly tightened connections and poor processing of the housing of the upper part of the steering column. To eliminate this noise, you need to remove the steering wheel.

We start by removing the overlays of the radio buttons - we unscrew the screws in the back and pull the overlays up along with the signal mechanism.
Then, with the head, unscrew the nut in the middle of the steering wheel, take the puller and tighten the steering wheel. Recall that the diameter of the steering wheel on the Nissan Qashqai is 380 mm.
First you need to set the wheels exactly and mark the relative placement of the shaft splines with a marker.
We process the plastic of the column, bend it somewhere, grind it and apply silicone grease, carefully tighten all the connections and put the steering wheel and pads in place.
Sometimes the steering angle sensor is faulty. With the steering wheel removed, you need to unscrew the two screws securing the casing cover from above and one from below, remove the wiring harness from the latch and disconnect the sensor connector. Then unscrew the fastening of the contact drum and remove it together with the sensor.
Replace the product and put it on the steering column.

It creaks due to cheap plastic in budget trim levels and insufficient clutch lubrication. Often there is noise from the friction of the cross of the universal joint of the column on the anther, it is eliminated by adding lubricant, or WD-40 helps out.

The appearance of a knock in the steering wheel indicates the need for a Nissan Qashqai to replace the steering shaft cross, which is disassembled directly in the cabin. We recommend replacing this part with a GMB product. In the article of the GMB 1639 cross, the first two digits are the diameter of the cup, the next are the width of the cross in mm.

First, remove the dashboard lining from below, disconnect and move the air duct aside.
We remove the steering shaft and disconnect the universal joints of the crosses.
We press out the old crosses and put in new ones.
We collect the cardan and put in place.

If the vibration of the steering wheel is noticed and bumps are felt, then there is a slight curvature of the steering column. With small extraneous sounds, the situation is not critical, you can continue to operate, but when the vibration intensifies, you need to replace the speaker.

A steering malfunction most often occurs when the mechanism of this assembly is worn out, a creak occurs when the rail is slightly bent or there is insufficient clamping force. The speedy wear of the Nissan Qashqai steering rack mechanism is facilitated not only by broken Russian roads, but also by dirt, moisture and salt, which adversely affect the seals of this unit.

As a result of exposure to these factors, the steering wheel begins to spin tightly, which is accompanied by an increased rattle and creak. It becomes difficult to drive such a car, and this is fraught with the creation of an emergency. In this case, it is necessary to proceed with the inspection, reassembly and adjustment of the rack and pinion mechanism:

Attention! A new plastic clamping sleeve should be worn in after a run of about 1 thousand km, after which it is necessary to re-adjust. If the knock is not so audible, the steering wheel turns easily, returns to a straight position in motion - the adjustment is made correctly.

To better understand the entire volume and procedure for the process of removal and adjustment with the replacement of rack and pinion bushings, watch the video at this link:

The wear of these parts is identified by a characteristic knock, rattle and creak. The play of the ball joints is especially noticeable when cornering, torn anthers contribute to the penetration of sand and dirt, so the steering tips, anthers and ball joints are changed in such cases.

To replace the tie rod end, we hang the front wheels of the car and remove them.

In order not to greatly violate the toe angles of the wheels, you need to mark the free part of the thread of the tips with chalk or paint.

We unscrew the nut and press out this part with the help of a ball puller or precise hammer blows in a certain place. Then, with a significant effort with a key of 22, loosen the tightening of the locknut on the steering rod and try not to go astray, counting the turns when unscrewing the tip.

We put the new part, twisting it by the same number of turns that was counted during removal, then tighten the lock nut to the place marked with chalk or paint. We insert the ball assembly of the tip into the eye of the steering knuckle and tighten the nut. The tie rod should be replaced only when it is bent or with the tips.

The steering of the Nissan Qashqai includes such a noisy unit as a hydraulic booster, which makes a characteristic sound when the steering wheel is rotated. This hum signals to the driver about the lack of fluid in the system. It is easy to fix such a malfunction with your own hands - add liquid to the tank.

If a whistle is heard, it is enough to tighten the power steering belt, and a creak indicates that the pump is faulty, and a repair kit will be needed here.

Despite the fact that the Nissan Qashqai is rightfully considered a reliable and practical car, it is still necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the car. Especially for such a part as driving.The safety of the driver and passengers is easy to ensure if you are confident in your car and its technical condition. If extraneous sounds are heard, react in time and replace faulty parts.

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When turning the steering wheel all the way to the extreme position, a loud knock is heard. Is it normal? Can the thrust washer between the tie rod joint housing and the steering gear housing fail? Does she exist at all? How to buy it?

Steering rack for Nissan Qashqai 2007-2014 MY
BU original.
Good condition. Does not require repair.

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I removed the rail without removing the subframe, unscrewing the lower engine mount and stabilizer. Original rail number SN-015 48001 JD900.
I unscrewed the rods from the rail (they sit tight and on the blue thread lock).
I checked the rail for backlash - backlash everywhere.

A small bearing on the shaft was broken (replaced it with a machined bushing), the upper bearing is alive.

Caprolon sleeve D=19.6 mm d=13 mm h=14 mm; instead of bearing NSK00501301

To knock out the bearing, I had to drill a rail. Already made a plug in the form of a screw plug on the M5.

Originals on the left, replacements on the right.

The bushing on the passenger side is slightly broken (made according to my drawing, but not from that plastic). It was not possible to shove, the plastic is very hard.

And the left sleeve generally fell apart into 2 parts. I didn't expect this.

Tomorrow I will turn two more caprolon bushings and assemble the rail.
Clamp bushing with roller without backlash, shaft without corrosion and shells.
The drawings are not final, tomorrow I will cut and refine.

I made bushings at work from caprolon and pressed them in. The horizontal shaft moves from the effort of the hand. After installing the bushings, I had to grind them a little. In the original, it would have been to go through them with a 27 mm sweep.
To repair the rail, you need only three bushings.

I publish the drawings (specified), for a small sleeve, the dimensions in the previous post.

Grease. I froze all night at -27 degrees. Normally, the properties are not lost.

Red is Teflon press-in grease

Picked up the rack yesterday. Adjusted the clearance. Walks tight and without backlash. In the manufacture of bushings, I did not take into account a small design feature: the rail is a closed volume of air. And I made too tight bushings on the shaft, I really wanted to increase the contact area of the bushing with the shaft. As a result, with a full turn of the steering wheel, one boot inflates, and on the other hand, on the contrary, it contracts (Air does not have time to pass from one end of the rail to the other.
Solution:
1. Make cuts inside the bushings 2 mm wide and 1 mm deep (not desirable from my point of view).
2. Put small breathers in the volume area.
I have a rake from a Mercedes lying around, that's where the breathers are, M3 (will go as a donor.
I decided to order new anthers on the rail and embed breathers in these volumes.

Correct shaft position

52 mm on each side

Pressure adjustment. There's still a lot to go. Previously it was very tight.

Retaining sealant for rods.

And so cleverly I greased my fingers in the steering tips

Consumption in the city in traffic jams

The steering wheel began to spin tighter, but no knocks, breaks. Clarity steering as on a new car.
The wheelbarrow is unrecognizable! To celebrate, he turned a circle around the ring at night.
Dear subscribers, I have a couple of questions:
1. Who put the rubber anthers on the rail (corrugations), the numbers would be.
2. Who has plastic underbody protection? Or carbon. I have iron, but for so many years the fastening ears have thinned to 2 mm somewhere. I want to put plastic, but thick.

The steering rack was kindly provided by Vitaliy Nikolaevich Novikov from Kansk.

In this case, we are repairing a rail from Qashqai.The rail on the Dualis is a mirror image both outside and inside!

Type of rack without steering rods, tips and anthers.

Some useful info on the rail.

Check the condition of the horizontal shaft for rust.

Before disassembly, set the horizontal shaft to the middle position.

Accurately mark the steering shaft relative to the body.

We disassemble the adjusting bushing. Unscrew the locknut and adjusting plug.

Inside are spring washers and a roller clamping sleeve.

We take out the clamping sleeve.

Unscrew and remove the nut-cover of the steering shaft.

We take out the steering shaft. Pull out the horizontal shaft.

Remove the bushing from the passenger side. We bend the mustache with the help of three needles and push the sleeve out with a horizontal shaft. Or you can take a screwdriver and break it out.

Here it is, the passenger side bushing.

Flip the rail upside down. We mark and drill so as to get into the cage of the needle bearing. If you missed - do not worry, work with a drill like a cutter in the right direction.

Knock out the needle bearing.

Vandalism? Unfortunately yes. But if I suggest you use a collet unclamp with a reverse grip and a reverse hammer, and even with local heating? Do you feel better? So we decided to use this rough method, which gives a consistently positive result, even at a specialized and equipped service.

Dismantled, laid out, admired their work.

We take a bushing-bearing (substitute for a needle bearing). With the help of a mandrel (it is possible without it, it’s just more convenient for her) we press it into the seat of the needle bearing. Press in until tight. Photo1 here - for clarity, what kind of bushing is and where it is located.

Lubricate and insert the steering shaft.

Let's see how it spins. It must spin by hand.

We take the shaft and swing it in all directions. If there is play, then tighten the cap-nut. If it doesn’t help, we disassemble and check the condition of the upper ball bearing. This is no ordinary bearing! It should not have backlashes either in the radial or in the axial direction (in short, in any!). I draw your attention to the fact that conventional radial bearings, even new ones, may have axial play.

The new bushing will have to be slightly modified. We remove the chamfer from the side opposite the high collar. It is better to make the width of the chamfer maximum - it will be easier to insert a horizontal shaft.

We squeeze, we drink. It is convenient to saw with a grinder. The flash almost does not form. We make THREE cuts from a high collar not to the end (as in the photo).

We make ONE cut for the entire length of the sleeve. We make it 2-3 mm wide.

We remove the flash from both sides, especially inside.

We first put on one rubber (if not enough, then one more) ring in each groove. Lubricate the bushing inside and out.

The main problem with installing the bushing is the dragging of the rubber rings through the groove in the housing. Rubber rings cling and tear. For easy installation, we cut out a strip from a plastic bottle that is approximately two times the length of the sleeve, about 5 cm long. (This is a photo of the repair of another rail).

We wrap the strip over the sleeve so that there is no overlap (this is a photo of the repair of another rail).

Lubricate the landing seat. We turn it into a tube, insert it into the body exactly where the seat for the sleeve is. Lubricate the bushing from the outside.

On such a flooring, the sleeve easily enters into place without damage. Next, hold the sleeve with your finger, pull the strip over the edge with pliers. (This is a photo of the repair of another rail).

We grind the horizontal shaft. If the shaft is without holes and corrosion, then we use a zero-skin (ZM 800) and GOI paste. Can be done without a machine. The goal is to get the smoothest possible surface.

Lubricate the horizontal and steering shafts.

We hold the shoulder of the sleeve in the groove with our hand, and insert the horizontal shaft. Without experience, it may not work right away - the sleeve tends to crawl out. The main thing is not to apply brute excess force and not break the bushing.

We check the pulling force of the horizontal shaft with an outstretched hand. We estimate how tightly the sleeve compresses the shaft. There must be an effort. If it is small, then we take out the sleeve and add another rubber ring to each groove.

Hold the left end of the horizontal shaft with your left hand. With the right hand, we check the absence of backlash.

We expose the horizontal shaft to the middle position. We insert the steering shaft according to the marks.

This shows the correct position of the steering shaft during assembly.

Tighten the cap nut until it stops.

Lubricate the roller bushing.

We fold the spring washers with a cone in one direction. We insert into place with the top of the cone inward.

We twist the adjusting plug.

With this grip of the key, pull until the force begins to appear. To test, try moving the horizontal shaft by pushing with your hand and applying all your weight. If the shaft does not move, then you need to unscrew the adjusting plug.

We check. We pull ourselves. We pull hard. You can rest against the yews. The shaft must not be pressed.

We swing up - down. No gap - good. There is a gap - we take out the roller clamping sleeve and.

with any sharp object crosswise we make scratches on the working surface to hold the lubricant.

change it to plastic. Pre-lubricated.

We twist and at the same time swing the horizontal shaft away from ourselves / towards ourselves. After the gap is gone, tighten for another 5-10 minutes (like an arrow on a clock). Check as described above. Tighten the locknut.

After a while, the plastic clamping sleeve will rub in, settle inward and require tightening. Therefore, we recommend that you make a final adjustment on the car after 1000 km of run or when knocking occurs. A sign of correct adjustment after grinding is the absence of knocks and at the same time the steering wheel returns to zero when driving.

Degrease the drilled hole and around it at the bottom of the rail. Cover with sealant, as in the photo. Let dry.

Screw the rods, tips. Put the rail on the car. Enjoy the silence if everything else is in order. By the way, we recommend changing the plastic anthers of the steering rack to rubber ones - they will protect it from water!

https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/remont-rulevykh-reek/disassemble-assemble/94-repair-steering-rack-on-nissan-qashqai.html

The content of the article:
1. Replacing the crosses in the steering shaft Nissan Qashqai
2. Eliminating the squeak of the anther of the steering shaft Nissan ...

h2cl » Wed Feb 25, 2015 18:09

I will share the repair of my steering rack.

It's no secret that the electric rails that are now being installed on cars are weak, Qashqai is no exception.

In order not to put the car on a joke, I bought a rail and decided to restore it (for me it's better and cheaper than buying the original or the same restored ATG).

The main problem with steering rack knock is the right bushing, which is very weak.
There is access to a lathe, he could do everything himself, there was a question in the material and design of the sleeve itself.
The entire Internet is littered with reports on the repair of rails using fluoroplastic bushings, but even so fluoroplastic is not a reliable material, until the next good blow, fluoroplastic has a cold current, in general, not an option.

I rummaged through a bunch of information on the repair of steering racks on the Internet and accidentally stumbled upon the autostar website https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384 they repair steering racks and make repair kits for repairing racks.

Although my hands are growing from the right place, I understand perfectly well that in order to achieve a good result, you will have to spend a lot of time, selecting a fit, the shape of the sleeve, in short, a bunch of nuances of caprolon, this is not the material, unlike fluoroplastic, which is made with a huge allowance and then in impudently driven, I know what I'm talking about, I decided not to bother myself and trust the professionals, here they posted a description of the repair of my rail [url] https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/remont-rulevykh-reek /20-razbiraem-i-sobiraem/94-repair-steering-rack-on-nissan-qashqai.html[/url]

Sleeve

It remains to put the rods and steering tips, while I ordered the CTR, I'm waiting for how I put it, I'll unsubscribe.

h2cl » Mon Mar 09, 2015 16:35

here you can see a photo report on the restoration of the steering rack only from toyota bushings also autostar https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/

Athos » Thu Apr 09, 2015 15:10

Athos » Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:09 am

TR7 » Sun Jun 21, 2015 22:10

cook » Mon Jun 22, 2015 21:04

AGS53 » Tue Jun 23, 2015 20:43

In general, I wanted to write my thoughts and share my experience about repairing the Nissan Qashqai steering rack with my own hands. In general, this is Qashqai's sore. Many owners will confirm that it sometimes starts to hit the steering wheel, there is a backlash, the steering wheel is difficult to turn. At the service they immediately say that the rail is to be replaced.

But it's being renovated. It's just that no one wants to deal with it. And the problem there is often just a support sleeve, which wears out over time, because it is plastic. This is how it turns out.

Only now the original bushing is nowhere to be found.

But there is a way out. On the advice of the guys, I ordered a support sleeve made of caprolon. Caprolon is a more suitable material for such knots. The price of the bushing for QASHQAI is only 950 rubles. Well, plus the repair service. Although I changed it myself, there are manuals on the Internet.

So I wanted to say - do not rush to buy a new rail for Qashqai. Everything is being renovated, the main desire.

The steering gear is removed for repair or replacement. However, keep in mind that the steering mechanism is the most important element in ensuring traffic safety. Low-quality repair of the mechanism can lead to serious consequences.
You will need a socket head "21".

1. In the passenger compartment, remove the protective cover from the lower cardan joint of the intermediate steering shaft.

2. Turn out a coupling bolt of terminal connection of the cardan hinge of an intermediate shaft with a shaft gear wheel of the steering mechanism.
3. Remove the front suspension subframe assembly with the steering gear (see Removal and installation of the front suspension subframe).

4. Unscrew the two nuts securing the steering gear to the front suspension subframe ...

5. ... and remove the steering gear.

This is how the steering gear nuts are located.

6. Establish the steering mechanism and all removed details in an order, the return to removal.

Cat breeders of all countries - unite!

Steering rack diagnostics

it happens » Wed Feb 25, 2015 20:35:27

Chessskazat, stole, but infa useful to disgrace.
SO, steering rack repair, Nissan Qashqai.

Kit » Tue May 26, 2015 03:18:51 PM

so it happens wrote: Chessskazat, stole, but infa useful to disgrace.
SO, steering rack repair, Nissan Qashqai.

oleg_t » Wed Feb 24, 2016 18:06:41

snap » Wed Feb 24, 2016 18:53:30

Alexsoff » Wed Feb 24, 2016 19:13:58

snap » Wed Feb 24, 2016 19:17:52

Well, let's go, with all the stops!
Prehistory.
The car was bought almost a year ago with an already current oil seal and another bunch of diseases. Almost everything has already been done, and only the current oil seal remained. It was going for almost half a year, the weather, then the work was not cranking, then with money, as usual, tension.
Get to the point.
Bought this set

And away we go:

We must fix the steering wheel. For this, it was quite enough to wind the electrical tape in two layers. If the steering wheel and wheels are level, then the bolts on the cardan shafts are in positions convenient for unscrewing.

What did my leak look like?

We remove everything that will interfere with work. I removed only the air filter housing and the corrugation with the sensor going to the throttle valve. Then, if desired, we clean the place of parsing from dirt and get this:

There were no special problems, everything is accessible and there is enough space. We unscrew the large tubes - the lower one by 14, the upper one by 17. We went relatively easily. eleven.

We unscrew the sprocket bolts. I started from the far one. It turned off normally. I used a cardan attachment. And here it is

Especially for you Ale-San

A rubber ring, a retaining ring, and an oil seal-19x30x6.5, which will have to be turned.
I don’t know what this repair kit is from, but it cost me 280 wooden ones. It took two weeks to order, but I took it from a dubious company, because in Existe they didn’t even want to try to break through, citing the absence of this catalog number in the database (at that time it was not registered on their website).
Regarding the Blue Bird, there is a completely different distributor, I personally held it in my hands, they have a one-on-one rail, and in principle you can turn the distributor to us, but. the angle of inclination of the rail attachment is different, so you have to collective farm with tubes. So judge for yourself which is easier.

With a light blow on the hammer with the upper end of the shaft, we take it out from the inside. In total, we get this:

We take a head that is suitable in size from the set, it fits me at 17, put it on the stuffing box and lightly hitting it with a hammer, we knock it out together with the bearing.

Then I moved home. Well, a smoke break to devour, a little bit of flooding on the forum. And it was also necessary to grind a new oil seal along the outer diameter.

We assemble in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the body with liquid from the inside for better entry of the oil seal and bearing. We fill the lower oil seal with Litol (well, or with another thick lubricant), and also put it on the shaft worm and put it back. thin tubes, with a little effort we push the body down and tighten the star bolts. We fasten the remaining tubes and stretch them all to the stop. Pour the liquid into the tank, and while it drains naturally, we collect everything else.

Next, we get into the car, and no matter how lazy we turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. We add slurry. began to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, periodically looking at the level of liquid in the tank.
Everything!

Here is the whole tool I used:

Heads-19,17,10,E10 (asterisk), socket wrenches-12,17,14,13, extension tube (to rip the upper cardan nut out of place)
The simplest tool, right?

I rode around the city for a test, about 10 km circle (filters, buy a clutch). It feels like the steering wheel became a little tighter, the return to zero is normal, the howling sound disappeared, the leaks are nowhere to be seen yet. on the shaft).
In fact, nothing complicated turned out to be. The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing. (C)
Thank you for supporting our Clubbers.
I think that I have fully reported to you on the work done, and therefore I went to eat beer with vodka.

The steering gear is adjusted (the gap between the gear and the rack) when a knock occurs during operation.

First you need to make sure that the cause of the knock is in the steering mechanism, since a similar knock can occur when the tie rod joints, the lower universal joint and the front suspension parts (rubber-metal bushings of the levers, ball bearings, shock absorber struts, etc.) . Also check the tightening of the nuts of the steering gear, column, steering wheel, lower cardan joint. If the knock does not disappear, we install the car on a viewing ditch or lift.

. or use a pipe wrench to loosen the locknut.

With a “9” tetrahedron, we screw in the nut of the rack stop until a sharp increase in resistance to its rotation and turn it off by 30 ° or 1/12 of a turn (you can navigate along the edges of the lock nut).

While holding the rack stop nut in this position, tighten the lock nut with a pipe wrench.

If you want to book a Nissan Qashqai steering rack repair, you need to:

1. call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master receiver;
2. The master will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both up and down, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the master makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our masters remove, repair and install the rack on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for the work.

If you urgently need to repair the steering rack for NISSAN QASHKAY in Moscow, please contact our car service.

We have been working since 2002, during this time we have established direct deliveries of spare parts from manufacturing plants, so we always have the necessary spare parts and assemblies in stock. The repair of rails and power steering is carried out by the masters of our center urgently and with guarantees.

You can order the following types of services from us:

Diagnostics and repair of the steering rack for NISSAN QASHQAI;
Diagnostics and repair of power steering - hydraulic power steering of your car;
Diagnostics of the chassis of the machine;
We offer for sale steering racks (new and restored).

The hydraulic booster plays an important role in the steering system. Power steering exists in order to reduce the force that is applied to the steering wheel. The power steering consists of the following elements:

Power steering pump, which creates pressure in the system up to 150 atmospheres;
Tank for power steering fluid and pipelines.

The power steering pump itself consists of a shaft and a housing, the executive part, where a rotor with retractable blades operates inside the elliptical ring. In addition, the pump includes a concentrator sealed with a gasket and a pressure reducing valve.

If the ring and valve wear out, this leads to a drop in the effective operation of the entire pump, which is especially noticeable at low engine speeds and is manifested by increased noise. The latest generation cars are equipped with electric hydraulic boosters that operate from the on-board electrical network and do not load the car (they turn on at the right time).

If you need power steering or steering rack repair for NISSAN QASHQAI, please contact us at any convenient time.

A network of specialized technical centers in Moscow carry out repair of the Nissan Qashqai steering rack at affordable prices with a subsequent guarantee.

The main reason for knocking the steering rack on the Nissan Qashqai is a worn horizontal shaft bushing.
If the steering rack is with hydraulic booster, then we also replace the oil seal in the steering column of the rack.
We also recommend replacing the plastic tie rod boots with rubber ones, which more reliably protect the tie rods and the interior of the rack from water ingress.