DIY Qashqai steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Qashqai steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Cat squirrel

Group: Users
Posts: 121
Registration: 17.6.2013

Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking at the steering
reike - decided to unequivocally Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed
I found out for myself:

1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right!
2. If the car is under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.)
3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money is almost down the drain)
4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but can afford it.
And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.

Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing
racks, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans
DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. X Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) wheel they have
everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. - and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part.
Installed if you look at
a lot, including Note. I ordered this sleeve at my own risk and peril 48128-ED00A.
1.5 waited, arrived.

Like everything, the silence passed, super.
If you have any questions, I will answer.
Later pictures.

Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16

Thumbnails of attached images

The latest modern technologies and excellent dynamics make the Nissan Qashqai a practical and comfortable vehicle. Excellent handling in difficult urban conditions is provided by the steering system, coupled with the hydraulic booster. But nothing is eternal, and no one is immune from breakdowns. Even on such a perfect car, it is necessary to repair the Nissan Qashqai steering rack and other steering assemblies.

Video (click to play).

To determine the cause of extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel, it is necessary to analyze in detail the conditions and circumstances of their occurrence.

It is necessary to understand the nature of the extraneous sound, to determine whether a creak appears when turning the steering wheel in motion or on the spot. Noise can occur when the car enters a turn, if in a turn, then some - left or right. An important factor is such circumstances as uneven road, high humidity, low temperatures and others. They will also help to find out the reason for the accompanying nuances of the occurrence of extraneous sounds - blows to the driver's steering wheel, the place of knocking, steering and others.

Often squeaks or shuffles due to friction of the steering wheel against the plastic of the steering column, poorly tightened connections and poor processing of the upper part of the steering column housing. Removing the steering wheel is required to eliminate this noise.

We start by removing the overlays of the radio buttons - we unscrew the screws in the back and pull the overlays up along with the signal mechanism.
Then, with the head, unscrew the nut in the middle of the steering wheel, take the puller and tighten the steering wheel. Recall that the diameter of the steering wheel on the Nissan Qashqai is 380 mm.
First, you need to align the wheels and mark the relative position of the shaft splines with a marker.
We process the plastic of the column, bend it somewhere, grind it and apply silicone grease, carefully tighten all the connections and put the steering wheel and pads in place.
Sometimes the steering angle sensor is faulty. With the steering wheel removed, you need to unscrew the two screws securing the casing cover from the top and one from the bottom, remove the wiring harness from the retainer and disconnect the sensor connector. Then unscrew the fastening of the contact drum and remove it together with the sensor.
Replace the product and put it on the steering column.

It creaks due to cheap plastic in budget trim levels and insufficient coupling lubrication. Often there is noise from the friction of the column gimbal cross on the boot, it is eliminated by adding grease, or the WD-40 helps out.

The appearance of a knock on the steering wheel indicates the need for Nissan Qashqai to replace the steering shaft cross, which is disassembled directly in the cabin. We recommend replacing this part with a GMB product. In the article of the GMB 1639 crosspiece, the first two numbers are the diameter of the cup, the next are the crosspiece width in mm.

First, remove the dashboard lining from below, disconnect and move the air duct.
We remove the steering shaft and disconnect the universal joints of the crosspieces.
We press out the old crosses and put new ones.
We collect the gimbals and put them in place.

If steering vibration is noticed and bumps are felt, then there is a slight curvature of the steering column. With small extraneous sounds, the situation is not critical, you can continue to operate, but when the vibration increases, you need to replace the speaker.

A steering malfunction most often occurs when the mechanism of this unit is worn out, a squeak occurs when the rack is slightly bent or the downforce is insufficient. The speedy wear of the Nissan Qashqai steering rack mechanism is caused not only by broken Russian highways, but also by dirt, moisture and salt, which adversely affect the seals of this unit.

As a result of the influence of these factors, the steering wheel begins to spin tightly, which is accompanied by an increased grinding and squeaking. It becomes difficult to drive such a car, and this is fraught with the creation of an emergency. In this case, it is necessary to proceed with the inspection, bulkhead and adjustment of the rack and pinion mechanism:

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Attention! After a run of about 1,000 km, a new plastic clamping sleeve should rub in, after which it is necessary to re-adjust. If the knock is not so audible, the steering wheel turns easily, returns in motion to a straight-line position - the adjustment is made correctly.

To better understand the entire scope and order of the removal and adjustment process with replacing the rack and pinion bushings, watch the video at this link:

The wear of these parts is recognized by the characteristic knocking, grinding and squeaking. The backlash of the ball joints is especially noticeable when cornering, torn anthers contribute to the penetration of sand and dirt, so the steering tips, anthers and ball joints are changed in such cases.

To replace the tie rod end, we hang the front wheels of the car and remove them.

In order not to greatly disturb the wheel toe angles, you need to mark the free part of the thread of the tips with chalk or paint.

We unscrew the nut and press out this part using a ball puller or precise hammer blows to a certain place. Then, applying a significant force with a 22 wrench, loosen the lock nut tightening on the steering rod and try not to go astray, counting the revolutions when unscrewing the tip.

We put a new part, twisting it by the same number of revolutions that was counted during removal, then tighten the lock nut to the place marked with chalk or paint. We insert the ball end of the tip into the lug of the steering knuckle and tighten the nut. Replacement of the tie rod should be done only when it is bent, or together with the tips.

The steering of the Nissan Qashqai includes such a noisy unit as a hydraulic booster, which, when the steering wheel is turned, emits a characteristic sound. This hum signals the driver about a lack of fluid in the system. It is easy to fix such a malfunction with your own hands - add liquid to the tank.

If a whistle is heard, it is enough to tighten the power steering belt, and a creak indicates that the pump is faulty, and then a repair kit will be needed.

Despite the fact that Nissan Qashqai is rightfully considered a reliable and practical car, the condition of the car must be monitored constantly. Especially for such a part as driving a car.The safety of the driver and passengers is easy to ensure if you are confident in your car and its technical condition. If you hear extraneous sounds, react in time and replace defective parts.

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When you turn the steering wheel all the way to the extreme position, a loud knock is heard. Is it okay? Could the thrust washer between the steering rod pivot housing and the steering box collapse? Does it exist at all? How to buy it?

Steering rack for Nissan Qashqai 2007-2014 MY
BU original.
Good condition. Doesn't require repair.

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He removed the rail without removing the subframe by unscrewing the lower engine mount and the stabilizer. The original rail number is SN-015 48001 JD900.
I unscrewed it from the thrust rail (they sit tightly and on the blue thread lock).
I checked the rail for backlash - there was backlash everywhere.

A small bearing on the shaft was broken (replaced it with a machined bushing), the upper bearing is alive.

Caprolon bushing D = 19.6 mm d = 13 mm h = 14 mm; instead of bearing NSK00501301

To knock out the bearing, I had to drill the rail. Already made a plug in the form of a threaded plug on the M5.

On the left are the originals, on the right are substitutes.

The bushing on the passenger side is slightly split (made according to my own drawing, but not from that plastic). It was not possible to put it in, the plastic is very hard.

And the left sleeve fell apart into 2 parts altogether. I didn’t expect that.

Tomorrow I will carve two more caprolon bushings and assemble the rail.
Pressure bush with roller without play, shaft without corrosion and pits.
Drawings are not final, tomorrow I will carve and clarify.

I made bushings at work from caprolon and pressed them in. The horizontal shaft is driven by hand force. After installing the bushings, I had to grind them a little. In the original, it would be to go through them with a 27 mm sweep.
Only three bushings are needed to repair the rail.

I publish the drawings (revised), for a small sleeve the dimensions in the previous post.

Lubrication. It froze all night at -27 degrees. Normally, the properties are not lost.

Red is Teflon press-in grease

Collected the rail yesterday. Adjusted the gap. It runs tight and without backlash. When manufacturing the bushings, I did not take into account a small design feature: a rail-closed volume of air. And I made too tight bushings on the shaft, I really wanted to increase the contact area of the sleeve with the shaft. As a result, with a full turn of the steering wheel, one boot inflates, and on the other hand, on the contrary, contracts (Air does not have time to pass from one end of the rail to the other.
Solution:
1. Make cuts inside the bushings 2 mm wide and 1 mm deep (not desirable from my point of view).
2. Place small air vents in the volume area.
I have a rail from a Mercedes lying around, there are the air vents, M3 (it will go as a donor.
I decided to order new anthers on the rail and insert breathers into these volumes.

Correct shaft position

52 mm on each side

Adjustment of tension. There is still a lot to go. Previously, it was tightly squeezed.

Locking sealant for rods.

And so cleverly I greased my fingers in the steering tips

City consumption in traffic jams

The steering wheel began to spin tighter, but no knocks, breaks. Precise steering like a new car.
You can't recognize a wheelbarrow! To celebrate, I made a circle around the roundabout at night.
Dear subscribers, there are a couple of questions:
1. Who put the rubber boots on the rail (corrugations), the number would be.
2. Who has the plastic underbody protection? Or carbon. I have iron, but for so many years the fastening ears have thinned to 2 mm somewhere. I want to put a plastic one, but thick one.

The steering rack was kindly provided by Vitaly Nikolaevich Novikov from Kansk.

In this case, we are repairing a Qashqai rail. The rail on Dualis is a mirror image both outside and inside!

View of the rack without tie rods, tips and anthers.

Some useful information on the rail.

We check the condition of the horizontal shaft for rust.

Before disassembling, set the horizontal shaft to the middle position.

We accurately mark the steering shaft relative to the body.

We disassemble the clamping sleeve adjustment unit. We unscrew the lock nut and the adjusting plug.

Inside spring washers and roller bush.

We take out the clamping sleeve.

Unscrew and remove the steering shaft cover nut.

We take out the steering shaft. We take out the horizontal shaft.

We take out the sleeve from the passenger side. We bend the mustache using three needles and push the sleeve outward with a horizontal shaft. Or you can take a screwdriver and break it off.

Here it is, the passenger side bushing.

Turn the rail upside down. We mark and drill so as to get into the needle bearing cage. If you missed, do not worry, work with the drill as a milling cutter in the right direction.

We knock out the needle bearing.

Vandalism? Unfortunately yes. But if I suggest you use a collet spreader with a reverse grip and a reverse hammer, and even with local heating? Will you feel better? So we decided to apply this crude method even at a specialized and equipped service, which gives a consistently positive result.

Dismantled, laid out, admired their works.

We take a bearing sleeve (needle bearing substitute). Using a mandrel (you can do without it, it's just more convenient for it), press it into the needle bearing seat. Press in until it stops. Photo1 here - for clarity, what kind of bushing is and where it is located.

Lubricate and insert the steering shaft.

We check how it spins. It should spin by hand.

We take it by the shaft and swing it in all directions. If there is a backlash, then tighten the cover nut. If it does not help, we disassemble and check the condition of the upper ball bearing. This is not a simple bearing! It should not have backlash neither in the radial nor in the axial direction (in short, in any direction!). Please note that conventional radial bearings, even new ones, can have axial play.

The new bushing will have to be slightly modified. We remove the chamfer from the side opposite to the high shoulder. It is better to maximize the width of the chamfer - it will be easier to insert the horizontal shaft.

We clamp, we saw. It is convenient to cut with a grinder. Almost no flash is formed. We make THREE cuts from a high pile not to the end (as in the photo).

We make ONE cut for the entire length of the sleeve. We make it 2-3 mm wide.

We remove the flash from both sides, especially inside.

First we put on one rubber (if not enough, then one more) ring in each groove. Lubricate the sleeve inside and out.

The main problem with installing the bushing is pulling the rubber rings through the groove in the body. Rubber rings cling and tear. For easy installation, we cut out a strip from a plastic bottle equal to about two lengths of the sleeve, about 5 cm. (This is a photo of another rail repair).

We wrap the strip over the sleeve so that there is no overlap (this is a photo of another rail repair).

Lubricate the landing nest. We roll it up with a tube, insert it into the body exactly where the seat for the sleeve is. Lubricate the sleeve from the outside.

On such a flooring, the sleeve easily fits into place without damage. Next, hold the sleeve with your finger, pull the strip over the edge with pliers. (This is a photo of another rail repair).

We grind the horizontal shaft. If the shaft is without pits and corrosion, then we use a zero skin (ZM 800) and GOI paste. Can be done without a machine. The goal is to get the smoothest surface possible.

Lubricate the horizontal and steering shafts.

We hold the collar of the sleeve in the groove with our hand and insert the horizontal shaft. Without experience, it may not work out right away - the bushing strives to get out. The main thing is not to use excessive force or break the bushing.

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We check the pulling force of the horizontal shaft with an outstretched hand. We estimate how tightly the sleeve compresses the shaft. The effort must be there.If it is small, then take out the bushing and add another rubber ring to each groove.

With your left hand we hold the left end of the horizontal shaft. We check the absence of backlash with our right hand.

We expose the horizontal shaft to the middle position. We insert the steering shaft according to the marks.

This shows the correct position of the steering shaft during assembly.

We tighten the cover nut until it stops.

Lubricate the roller bushing.

Fold the spring washers with a cone to one side. Insert in place with the top of the cone inward.

We tighten the adjusting plug.

With this grip on the key, pull until force begins. To test, try moving the horizontal shaft by pushing with your hand and applying all your weight. If the shaft does not move, then it is necessary to unscrew the adjusting plug.

Checking. We pull on ourselves. We pull strongly. You can rest against the yews. The shaft should not be squeezed out.

We swing up and down. No gap is good. There is a gap - take out the roller bush and.

make scratches on the working surface with any sharp object crosswise to hold the lubricant.

we change it to plastic. Having previously lubricated.

We twist and simultaneously swing the horizontal shaft from ourselves / to ourselves. After the gap is gone, tighten for another 5-10 minutes (like the arrow on the clock). Check as described above. Tighten the lock nut.

The plastic bushing will rub in after a while, settle down and require a tightening. Therefore, we recommend making the final adjustment on the car after 1000 km of run or in the event of a knock. A sign of correct adjustment after lapping is the absence of knocks and, at the same time, the return of the steering wheel to zero when driving.

Degrease and around the drilled hole at the bottom of the rail. Cover with sealant, as in the photo. Let dry.

Fasten the rods, lugs. Place the rail on the car. Enjoy the silence if everything else is okay. By the way, we recommend changing the plastic anthers of the steering rack to rubber ones - they will protect it from water!

https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/remont-rulevykh-reek/ disassembling- assembling/94-repair-steering-raike-on-nissan-qashqai.html

The content of the article:
1. Replacing the crosspieces in the steering shaft Nissan Qashqai
2. Elimination of the creak of the anther of the steering shaft Nissan ...

h2cl »Wed Feb 25, 2015 18:09

I will share the repair of my steering rack.

It's no secret that the electric racks that are now put on weak cars, Qashqai is no exception.

In order not to put the car on a joke, I bought a used rail and decided to restore it (for me it is better and cheaper than buying the original or the same restored ATGs).

The main problem with the knocking of the steering rack is the right hub, which is very weak.
There is access to a lathe, he could do everything himself, the question remained in the material and design of the sleeve itself.
The entire Internet is littered with reports on the repair of rails using fluoroplastic bushings, but even so, fluoroplastic is not a reliable material, until the next good blow, fluoroplastic has a cold current, generally not an option.

I rummaged through a bunch of information on repairing steering racks on the Internet and accidentally stumbled upon the autostar website https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384 repair steering racks, and make repair kits for repairing racks.

Although my hands are growing from the right place, I understand perfectly well that in order to achieve a good result, I will have to spend a lot of time, selecting the fit, the shape of the sleeve, in short, a bunch of nuances caprolon is not the same material, unlike fluoroplastic, which is made with a huge allowance and then in they are insolently driven, I know what I'm talking about, I decided not to bother myself and to trust the professionals, here they posted a description of my rail repair [url] https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/remont-rulevykh-reek /20-razbiraem-i-sobiraem/94-repair-steering-rack-in-nissan-qashqai.html [/ url]

Sleeve

It remains to put the rods and steering tips, while I ordered the CTR, I’m waiting for the delivery, I’ll unsubscribe.

h2cl »Mon Mar 09, 2015 16:35

here you can see a photo report on the restoration of the steering rack only from toyota bushings also autostar https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1384/

Athos »Thu Apr 09, 2015 15:10

Athos »Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:09 am

TR7 »Sun Jun 21, 2015 22:10

Scoop »Mon Jun 22, 2015 21:04

AGS53 »Tue Jun 23, 2015 20:43

In general, I wanted to write my reasoning and share my experience regarding the repair of the Nissan Qashqai steering rack with my own hands.In general, this is Kashkai's sore. Many owners will confirm that sometimes they start hitting the steering wheel, there is a backlash, the steering wheel is difficult to turn. The service immediately says that the rail is for replacement.

But it is being repaired after all. It's just that no one wants to face it. And the problem there is often simply in the support sleeve, which wears out over time, because it is plastic. This is what happens.

Only now the original sleeve can not be found anywhere.

But there is a way out. On the advice of the guys, I ordered a support sleeve made of caprolon. Caprolon is a more suitable material for such knots. The price of the sleeve for QASHQAI is only 950 rubles. Well, plus repairs at the service. Although I changed it myself, there are manuals on the Internet.

So I wanted to say - do not rush to buy a new rail for Qashqai. Everything is being renovated, the main thing is desire.

The steering gear is removed for repair or replacement. However, keep in mind that the steering gear is an essential element in driving safety. Poor quality repair of the mechanism can lead to serious consequences.
You will need a 21 ”socket.

1. In the passenger compartment, move the protective cover away from the lower cardan joint of the intermediate steering shaft.

2. Remove the pinch bolt of the clamping joint of the intermediate shaft universal joint with the steering gear shaft.
3. Remove the front suspension subframe assembly with the steering gear (see Removing and Installing the Front Suspension Subframe).

4. Unscrew the two nuts securing the steering mechanism to the front suspension subframe ...

5.… and remove the steering gear.

This is how the steering gear mounting nuts are located.

6. Install the steering gear and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Cats of all countries - unite!

Steering rack diagnostics

it happens Wed Feb 25, 2015 20:35:27

Chess say, stole, but infa useful to disgrace.
SO, steering rack repair, nissan qashqai.

Kit Tue May 26, 2015 15:18:51

so it happens he wrote: Chess say, stole, but infa useful to disgrace.
SO, steering rack repair, nissan qashqai.

oleg_t Wed Feb 24, 2016 18:06:41 PM

snap »Wed Feb 24, 2016 18:53:30

Alexsoff Wed Feb 24, 2016 19:13:58

snap Wed Feb 24, 2016 19:17:52

Well, let's go, with all the stops!
Prehistory.
The car was bought almost a year ago with the current oil seal and another bunch of diseases. Almost everything has already been done, and only the current oil seal remained. The weather was going for almost half a year, then the work was not in cranking, then with money, as usual, stress.
Get to the point.
Such a set was purchased

And away we go:

We must fix the steering wheel. For this, it was enough to wind the electrical tape in two layers. If the steering wheel and wheels are level, then the bolts on the cardan are in positions convenient for unscrewing.

What it looked like for me

We remove everything that will interfere with the work. I removed only the air filter housing and the corrugation with the sensor going to the throttle damper. Then, if desired, we clean the parsing place from dirt and get this:

We remove the gimbals. There were no special problems, everything is available and there is enough space. We unscrew the large tubes - the lower one by 14, the upper one by 17. We went relatively easily. There is very little liquid glass from the pump. We loosen the small tubes - used an adjustable wrench. It seems there is a wrench on eleven.

We unscrew the bolts of the sprocket. I started from the far one. It unscrewed normally. I used the cardan attachment. And here it is.

Especially for you Ale-San

A rubber ring, a retaining ring, and an oil seal-19x30x6.5, which will have to be sharpened.
From what this repair kit I do not know, but it cost me 280 wooden ones. It took two weeks to order, but I took it from a dubious company, because. in Exist, they did not even want to try to break through, referring to the absence of this catalog number in the database (at that time it was not registered on their website).
Regarding the Blue Bird, there is a completely different distributor, he personally held it in his hands, they have a one-to-one rail, and in principle, you can turn the distributor to us, but.the angle of inclination of the rail is different, so you have to work collective farms with the pipes. So judge for yourself which is easier.

By lightly hitting the hammer with the upper end of the shaft, we take it out from the inside. So we get this:

We take a head of a suitable size from the set, I fit it at 17, put it on the oil seal and lightly hit it with a hammer, knock it out together with the bearing.

Then I moved home. Well, a smoke break for devouring, on the forum to flood a little. And also it was necessary to grind a new oil seal on the outer diameter. I made it out of improvised means (a caliper finger from a GAZelle).

We assemble in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the inside of the body with slurry for better entry of the oil seal and bearing. We fill the lower oil seal with Litol (well, or another thick grease), and also put it on the shaft worm and put it back. thin tubes, with a little effort push the body down and tighten the asterisk bolts. Screw the rest of the tubes and stretch all of them all the way. Pour the liquid into the tank, and while it flows naturally by itself, collect the rest.

Next, we sit in the car, and no matter how lazy we turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Top up the slurry. As I did alone, then I did the following: I did not start the car for a long time, I added the slurry to the level, I did not start it for a long time, I added it, I started it and began to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, periodically looking at the level of the liquid in the tank.
Everything!

Here's the whole tool I used:

Heads-19,17,10, E10 (asterisk), socket wrenches-12,17,14,13, extension tube (to rip off the nut of the upper cardan)
The simplest tool, isn't it?

On a test I rolled around the city, about 10 km circle (filters, clutch buy). Feels like the steering wheel became a little tighter, the return to zero is normal, the howling sound disappeared, the leaks are not visible anywhere. on the shaft).
Nothing complicated actually turned out. The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing. (C)
Thanks for the support of our Clubbers.
I believe that I fully reported to you on the work done, and therefore I went to eat beer with vodka.

Adjust the steering mechanism (the gap between the gear and the rack) when knocking occurs during operation.

First, you need to make sure that the reason for the knock is in the steering mechanism, since a similar knock can occur when the steering rod joints, the lower universal joint and front suspension parts (rubber-metal arm bushings, ball bearings, shock absorber struts, etc.) ... Also check the tightness of the nuts of the steering mechanism, column, steering wheel, lower universal joint. If the knocking persists, we install the car on a viewing ditch or lift.