DIY Kia Sportage steering rack repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack kia sportage from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

On my car, when the mileage is closer to 40,000 km the rake began to knock... At first, I sinned on shock absorbers, since the entire suspension was normal, but after I changed the shock absorbers of the FFF series, small knocks did not stop.

The knock manifests itself on small bumps or the passage of the comb on the road, gives a little to the steering wheel. Unpleasant sounds become more when it gets colder outside.

You can also diagnose a malfunction of the steering rack bushing by turning the steering wheel quickly to the left to the right, and knocks in the rail (clicks) will be clearly audible, both in the cabin and outside the car, vibration on the steering wheel will also be felt.

How to get rid of knocks on the steering rack of the Kia Sportage 3?

Tighten the adjusting nut;
Replace the bushing;
Change the rail assembly.

The easiest way is the first, tighten the nut. The shaft will press more firmly against the bushing and will not knock like that. This can be done without removing the stretcher and rail, right on the spot. You just have to make a key for tightening: from a regular nut 26 and a strip of metal. Everything would be fine, but the procedure is temporary, soon you will have to do it again and not the fact that it will help a second time. Instructions on how to do this are on the drive:

Another option is to change the rail assembly, who does not want to bother with busting the rail! But not the cheapest way, the rail costs 10-12 tons rubles aisle. Original number: 56500-2S000

Yes, and this option is also not durable, the new original steering rack that you buy will not work for a very long time. I know a living example, such a rail passed only 10,000 km, and knocked. Therefore, I see no reason to put a new one.

Video (click to play).

There remains the most reliable and durable third way - this is to change the native bushing (56555-2S000) onto the caprolactam sleeve. This sleeve will last almost forever, thanks to the material of which it is made and the increased working surface.

We remove the rake, the process will not describe this is not the main thing in this article, if you have any questions, you can see the photo report on removing the rake also on the drive:

We disassemble the rail: first we unscrew the left rod, as in the photo:

We unscrew the counter nut of the adjusting bolt, and the bolt itself:

Next, we unscrew the fastening of the shaft with the bearing, everywhere we needed a gas wrench. Then we take out the steering shaft, the second rod can not be unscrewed.

We take out the old bushing, first you need to remove the retaining ring.

The photo shows the difference between the original and the caproloctane bushing. The bushing is larger, the working surface is twice as large, due to which the resource is increased:

Lubricate the steering shaft with special blue Mobil grease, insert it into place.

We twist everything back. We tighten the nut of the shaft with the worm until it stops, and we tighten the adjusting nut until the shaft can still be turned by hand.

We collect the rail, find the center. On our steering wheels, we get a full shaft travel - three revolutions. We make marks on the shaft and the rail with a marker, measure one and a half turns from the end of the rail and leave it - this is the center.

Mobilgrease XHP 222 grease, order number in the parts catalog: 153553

Before removing the rail, we locked the steering wheel in the center position. After the bulkhead, the steering shaft was placed in the center, and when the rack was put in place, everything fell into place as it was! The car does not lead anywhere, it goes smoothly, I will not rush to do the collapse yet, but in the end it is absolutely necessary to do everything!

After replacing the bushing, there is now silence, no knocking, no hits on the steering wheel, you drive through irregularities softly and quietly. The steering wheel turns easier. I am happy with the result!

Perhaps someone will need to change the tie rods and tips in one go, all the spare part numbers in this article: steering tips, tie rods and anthers.

Article rating:

So, let's begin.
We drive the car onto a pit or a lift, in my case a pit.
We loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car, remove the wheels and put stops under the longitudinal spars, in my case bricks, in the place behind the subframe mount.
We open the driver's door, take the head for 12 with a long crank and unscrew the bolt at the legs that secures the drive steering shaft to the rail. We put marks on the cardan shaft and the rack shaft (better with paint, the marker will be erased). We remove the steering shaft from the drive shaft of the rack by lifting it up, if it does not work, you can slightly move the steering wheel to the left to the right and everything will work out.

Now under the car.
For the convenience of removing the tips of the steering rods from the steering knuckle, I used a puller. I warn you right away, there is very little space, but it easily appears if you unscrew the two bolts of the brake clamp with a 14 wrench (as when replacing the pads) and remove it. We take out the inner block and there is enough space to install the puller. We take out the cotter pins and loosen the nuts of the steering rods with a wrench of 17. We do not twist the nuts completely, since when extruding it is possible to “cut” the thread, and by unscrewing the nut after the cone has been torn off, we will fix it with a nut (dreary, but this is an experience).

The rods were torn off, the nuts were unscrewed, now the stretcher.
Removing protection - I do not describe it.
The subframe is secured with 4 bolts and 2 nuts.

DO NOT TOUCH THE RED BOLT. He holds the rear arm bush, we don't need it.
Wrench bolts 17 or 14 and 19, two on each side and one nut on each side you will see them. If you look from below in the lever there is a hole through it with a long knob and a 19-long head, unscrew the nuts. No photo. I'm sorry.
Remove the rubber pipe fastening the muffler behind the subframe.

We unscrew the two bolts securing the engine stop.

Gently pull the subframe down and it goes down while remaining on the ball joints.

THE ENGINE IS NOT NECESSARY TO INCREASE!
Now we take a 17 key and unscrew the 4 bolts securing the rail to the subframe and unscrew one bolt with a 10 wrench, it holds the casing over the rail.
We approach the car on the left and carefully pull out the rail assembly towards ourselves.
Rail in hand. INSTALLATION WILL BE IN THE REVERSE ORDER.

Reiki analysis!
We remove the clamps from both anthers, use the gas wrench to unscrew the steering bullseye together with the tip. TAKING HARD, WORKS ON THE THREAD SEALANT! It took 2 gas keys.

We find the nut 24 and unscrew the adjusting bolt.

Careful, there is a spring, do not lose it. And you can gently pull out the rack shaft stop with round-nose pliers.
With a 27 key, unscrew the steering shaft nut, pull the rail to the left to the end (so that the shaft fully enters the bushing where the apple was unscrewed), put marks on the shaft.

To correctly pull out the shaft, pull the rail to the end to the left, take out the shaft, put it back in the same position during assembly. We take out the rack, clean it of grease, see if there is any rust (if there is, then it is better to change the steering rack assembly). Everything is fine with my rail, no rust. Lubricate the new bushing and put it in place, grease the rail abundantly and start assembling in the reverse order, when installing the steering tips, you need to lubricate the threads with Thread sealant, put the anthers on the sealant.

Russian club of owners of Kia Soul (KIA Soul)

Message Iwan »01 June 2016, 20:14

Forgive me the administrators and moderators of the forum. But, I decided that it is worth a separate topic.

Good to all!
Immediately I apologize for the many letters and some confusion of the text. I will try to explain everything on my fingers)

And so ... As I wrote in the review, we took the car with a range of 10 thousand km. And almost immediately an interesting sound was discovered, coming from the bowels of the steering rack. The car was still under warranty at that time. Well, I went to the officials. We looked - we did not find anything)))

They did not think for a long time and stopped at the service.Not a dealer. And so it was repeated 7 times. As a result - there is nothing and everything is okay ... And lastly, I stopped by the office dealer again. The result is that nothing was found. Well lan, no, no. So I left a thousand 145 km.
The knock manifested itself in two cases:
1) on a bad road with a lot of irregularities - like a washboard)
2) during active taxiing, for example, on an ice track.
In both cases, the knocking went away. Sometimes after 20-30 minutes. Sometimes another day. I even stopped by the guys who specialize in steering. And as according to the law of meanness, there was a knock on the day of the inspection, but due to the workload, they decided to do it the next day. Well, I came to them, but there was no knocking))) but the point is to do what does not knock))))

At 145 thousand km, the knocking began to appear more and more often and, freaking out, went to a friend's service. Vasya (a friend) climbed for 30-40 minutes both under and in the car. Rocked in the pit. Used mounts. The verdict - nothing ... Then I told him, maybe the steering gimbal backlash. Do not rejoice ahead of time - this is not him, he is not the culprit)

In general, Vasya suggested that I actively play with the wheel imitating taxiing on the ice track))) and the fear - the knock began to manifest itself. At first it was barely audible, well, I added gas))) and here it is - a knock on the steering rack.

Vasya climbed under the torpedo to see what could be on the steering shaft. And there was a reason for the infection. And the reason, I do not know how it is called correctly. If you look in order, starting from the steering wheel there is a shaft, then a cardan shaft, then again a shaft and again a cardan shaft, but a little more than the first. From it there is already a stock, which enters the steering rack.

It turns out that this stock was making such an unpleasant knock! That is, when turning, for example, to the right - the rod left the rack a little, when returning to the zero point of the steering wheel - it came back. Hence the knock. As a result - Vasya tightened some kind of nut and that's it - the knock was gone)))

That's it. I traveled so much with this knock. Lan splines or whatever hasn't broken there yet

Hmm, but some might not have needed to change the rail at one time ...

It's a pity you can't go to the new Boar branch. Hopefully new owners will see this post. I mean that my entry in the Soul thread 2008-2014

On my car, when the mileage was closer to 40,000 km, the rail began to knock. At first, I sinned on the shock absorbers, since the entire suspension was normal, but after I changed the FFF series shock absorbers, the small knocks did not stop.

The knock manifests itself on small bumps or the passage of the comb on the road, gives a little to the steering wheel. Unpleasant sounds become more when it gets colder outside.

How to get rid of knocks on the steering rack of the Kia Sportage 3?

Tighten the adjusting nut;
Replace the bushing;
Change the rail assembly.

Another option is to change the rail assembly, who does not want to bother with busting the rail! But not the cheapest way, the rail costs 10-12 tons rubles aisle. Original number: 56500-2S000

There remains the most reliable and durable third way - it is to change the native bushing (56555-2S000) for a caprolactam bushing. This sleeve will last almost forever, thanks to the material of which it is made and the increased working surface.

We remove the rake, I will not describe the process, this is not the main thing in this article, if you have any questions, you can see the photo report on removing the rake also on the drive:

We disassemble the rail: first we unscrew the left rod, as in the photo:

We unscrew the counter nut of the adjusting bolt, and the bolt itself:

Next, we unscrew the fastening of the shaft with the bearing, everywhere we needed a gas wrench. Then we take out the steering shaft, the second rod can not be unscrewed.

We take out the old bushing, first you need to remove the retaining ring.

The photo shows the difference between the original and the caproloctane bushing. The bushing is larger, the working surface is twice as large, due to which the resource is increased:

Lubricate the steering shaft with special blue Mobil grease, insert it into place.

We twist everything back. We tighten the nut of the shaft with the worm until it stops, and we tighten the adjusting nut until the shaft can still be turned by hand.

Mobilgrease XHP 222 grease, parts catalog order number: 153553

After replacing the bushing, there is now silence, no knocking, no hits on the steering wheel, you drive bumps gently and quietly. The steering wheel turns easier. I am happy with the result!

Perhaps someone will need to change the tie rods and tips in one go, all the spare part numbers in this article: steering tips, tie rods and anthers.

Watch an interesting video on this topic

Kia Sportage III. REPLACING THE STEERING ROD AND ITS PROTECTIVE COVERYou will need: pipe wrench, borers, pliers.The steering rod is replaced relatively rarely, usually when it is damaged (deformation or breakage of the thread). The attachment point of the steering rod to the steering rack on the car is difficult to access, therefore, if the steering rod is damaged, we recommend removing the steering gear assembly from the car to replace it. If you have some skill, you can replace the protective cover for the steering rod without removing the steering gear from the car.4. Loosen the lock of the inner clamp of the tie rod cover with the side cutters.- check the steering rod protective cover. If cracks are found on the cover, replace it;- install new clamps for fastening the protective cover of the steering rod.8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the wheel alignment angles.Hello everyone! I decided to discuss the following Temko. Many of us have no no yes, the steering rack starts tapping. Trips to OD do not always bring the desired results. And someone at all (like me) scored on the "guarantee" from crooked dealers.Therefore, we begin to discuss the independent repair of the steering rack, replacement of bushings, tightening. Anyone who has what experience in this area, it is possible and on the example of other machines with a similar rail design.I ask you not to combine the topic with another and leave it as it is.Repair Kit Replacement Guide:
link The clock spring is roughly a loop in the steering wheel, it is responsible for the performance of the signal, cushion and steering buttons, if the steering wheel makes more than two revolutions relative to the zero point (in either direction) the train breaks, the result is clear.According to the subject, I repaired the rail at OD but was present during the whole process, there are no particular difficulties. You need a good lift or pit. The order is:
-Unscrew and remove the steering cardan in the cabin, fix the steering wheel in the zero position.
-lift the car, unscrew and remove the steering rods.
-Unscrew the 4 bolts of the subframe and lower the subframe (it is heavy, if there is a telescopic jack, then there is no problem, if not, then it is better to do the procedure together).
-Unscrew the high pressure hoses and drain the power steering fluid (here you just need a special cap key with a 12/14 groove)
-Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the rail to the subframe and remove the rail.Next, we clamp the rail in a vice, tighten the right boot, unscrew the right steering rod together with the tip, unscrew the bushing and replace it. To unscrew the “thrust bearing” you need a good head for 14, if I'm not mistaken, the thread is numbered, you need to rip it off. We replace the spring and the thrust bearing itself. We tighten the new thrust bearing until it stops, then release it by 1.4 turns, then move the rail back and forth (carefully oil will spray from the holes from the hoses), the rail should move with a little effort, but not dangle and not tight. That's it, we core the heel and put it all in reverse order. Something like this. Come! Steering diagnostics - free!

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Repair cost with spare parts (rub.)Even a loud knock on the steering rack should not be a reason to replace this part with a new one. Order such a service as repair of the steering rack Kia Sportage!It is best to contact only highly qualified craftsmen for repairs, because the safety of traffic on a vehicle depends on this unit. Only a professional will not immediately insist on changing the rail, but will figure out the root cause of the damage and the necessary ways to eliminate it.The rack is designed to transmit the applied forces from the steering mechanism to the rims when it rotates. A strange sound can sometimes start in the area of the rack mount, tie rods, steering tips, wheels due to frequent hard braking, hard driving, bad roads. But it is possible to establish the place where the knock occurs on your own. The chain of operations: turn off the engine, put the car on the handbrake, the assistant sits down on the steering gear, and you climb under the car and look at the rail. First, examine the protective anthers in order to identify their malfunctions or contamination, then when you turn the steering wheel, listen - exactly where the source of the knock is. Are the handpieces the source of the knocking? Repairing a Kia Sportage steering rack in such a case can be inexpensive, but it is better to carry it out in a car service. Is the rail mount knocking with the traction? You can try to repair the damage yourself - remove the protective boot and remove the grease coating. Extraneous sound in the bushing is removed only by replacing this element. The spring must be cleaned of sand and dirt, and, if necessary, removed and cleaned with a suitable liquid. Even minor damage or gaps in the anthers are a reason to replace them with new ones.Sale of steering racks Kia Sportage is a demanded sphere of the company's functioning.Good day, dear participants in the topic!
Today we will raise the issue of the problems and their solutions on the steering racks of Hyndai Tucson and Kia Sportage New cars.
At the moment I came across the following possible problems:
1) even a new one knocks (. F :)). );
2) pressures the slurry on the return (a disease or something);
3) quickly fails (30tkm)
4) miscellaneous.I propose to discuss in this topic who had a problem when and how he actually solved it.I myself am now puzzled by the question of tightening the rail, since it knocks like this normally, but it is a little embarrassing that it is necessary to unscrew the stretcher at the same time and, in general, be not a bad gynecologistThere was a problem - last winter, when there were wild frosts, for 30t I began to poison on the return line, at the transition point of the rubber hose and the aluminum tube (a rubber hose is sealed there, an aluminum cap is put on the tube).
The problem seemed to be resolved after I put a clamp on the rolling cap and tightened it to the maximum.The steering wheel of the car with its wheels is connected by means of a steering rack, which allows the vehicle to be turned.One of the elements of this mechanism is the steering rack bushing, which often requires replacement.Competent diagnosis of the steering rack and constant monitoring of its performance is of great importance for driving safety. It is the steering components of any modern car that most often fail for objective reasons. They wear out every time the wheels hit the road pits and bumps, as well as all kinds of obstacles, during difficult and dangerous turns.It does not matter at all what kind of car you drive - the steering rack bushing or other element of the mechanism can break both on a super-prestigious foreign car and on an old domestic car. Image - DIY Kia Sportage steering rack repair

Therefore, pay attention to the following steering malfunction symptoms:

an increase in the effort required to turn the steering wheel;
grease leaks from the steering rack;
a knock from the rail is transmitted through the steering wheel;
when the steering wheel rotates, a backlash is felt;
uncharacteristic noises and "unnecessary" sounds were heard in the power steering pump.

As soon as these symptoms have been recorded, it is necessary to repair the mechanism without delay. Replacing the steering rack in a timely manner will allow you to avoid more costly repairs to the entire device.

Let's say right away that experts in the field of automotive repair do not advise repairing the steering mechanism on their own due to its increased complexity and the need to use special equipment. A standard repair kit includes, in addition to the usual set of tools, the following parts:

anthers, external and internal oil seals;
clamps;
special rings for the bushing (made of rubber and fluoroplastic).

The strip disassembly diagram is presented below:

using a flat screwdriver, the rail is disconnected from the steering rods (the car must be slightly raised on a jack so that it is convenient to remove the wheel);
remove the plug from plastic material and unscrew the lock nut;
the retaining ring is dismantled, and then the shaft and lower oil seal are removed;
the upper gland can be removed after the locking pin has been removed.

After that, the retaining ring is removed from the plug, directly the rail, from which it is now easy to remove the plastic sleeve, and another oil seal.

Having cleaned all components from dirt and oil, they must be examined for mechanical damage caused by operational wear. Replacing the steering rack bushing is a must if you see that this part is out of order. Its wear is usually caused by shaft corrosion.

It is unrealistic for one person to replace the bushing, such work is performed with a partner, whose role is especially important at the first stage of the operation, when it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the steering gear, as well as its individual elements. After replacing the bushing, it will need to be treated with a lubricant. Similarly, grease should be used in the process of tightening the rod.

After the boot is installed in its place, it is advisable to tighten it with new clamps (preferably metal, if there are none, made of plastic). At the final stage of the process, the steering tip is mounted, after which the car wheel is placed in its original place. Enjoy the normal and quiet steering of your vehicle with the new hub!

1. Remove the steering gear from the car (see. subsection 5.5.1).

2. Clamp the steering gear in a vice with soft jaws or install it in special tool 67.7820.9536 for assembly and disassembly work.

When reassembling, take special care to ensure that no dirt, swarf or other foreign matter can enter the steering housing.

The steering wheel of the car with its wheels is connected by means of a steering rack, which allows the vehicle to be turned. One of the elements of this mechanism is the steering rack bushing, which often requires replacement.

Competent diagnosis of the steering rack and constant monitoring of its performance is of great importance for driving safety. It is the steering components of any modern car that most often fail for objective reasons. They wear out every time the wheels hit the road pits and bumps, as well as all kinds of obstacles, during difficult and dangerous turns.

It does not matter at all what kind of car you drive - the steering rack bushing or other element of the mechanism can break both on a super-prestigious foreign car and on an old domestic car.

Therefore, pay attention to the following steering malfunction symptoms:

an increase in the effort required to turn the steering wheel;
grease leaks from the steering rack;
a knock from the rail is transmitted through the steering wheel;
when the steering wheel rotates, a backlash is felt;
uncharacteristic noises and "unnecessary" sounds were heard in the power steering pump.

anthers, external and internal oil seals;
clamps;
special rings for the bushing (made of rubber and fluoroplastic).

The strip disassembly diagram is presented below:

using a flat screwdriver, the rail is disconnected from the steering rods (the car must be slightly raised on a jack so that it is convenient to remove the wheel);
remove the plug from plastic material and unscrew the lock nut;
the retaining ring is dismantled, and then the shaft and lower oil seal are removed;
the upper gland can be removed after the locking pin has been removed.

After that, the retaining ring is removed from the plug, directly the rail, from which it is now easy to remove the plastic sleeve, and another oil seal.

If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Kia Sportage, you need to:

1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

There are a number of signs of a defective steering rack. This is a difficult rotation of the steering wheel, rack play, knocking, noise of the power steering, transmission fluid leak.If any of these signs occur, do not postpone contacting a car service center - you need to repair the steering rack.

Our Car Service Center, which is called the "PEEK Repair Center", is ready to offer professional assistance in diagnostics, restoration or replacement of steering racks and power steering for Kia Sportage and other models and brands of cars.

Repair of the steering rack of a Kia Sportage or any other car is a complex work that begins with the removal and disassembly of the steering rack, includes the replacement of worn out elements and assemblies.

To repair the rails and power steering (power steering) of the Kia Sportage, you need specialized tools. Our workshop has everything you need for the professional repair of rails and power steering (as well as mechanical and electrical power steering).

These are keys and pullers, tools for removing oil seals and bearings, measuring devices that check the geometry of the shafts, a special tool for restoring the rack housing, etc.

Link to original video: Repair of the steering rack on the Kia Sportage 3

Den152 Denisovich: Does anyone have an article for this plastic sleeve, it seems that they are reinforced and thicker ??

Dmitry Aleksandrovich: Thank you very much for your work, kind person, and for sharing with everyone, I also seem to have to do this soon

UbluydkiNaDorogah: The rail knocks due to wear in the plastic sleeve, which you just decided not to change. It wears out from rusting the surface of the shaft to which the steering rods are attached. Half a year ago, this plastic sleeve cost about 700 rubles. well, it is advisable to grind the shaft against rust, put new anthers. After that, silence in the previous suspension)))

RespekSrub: Hello! Tell me how she knocks. When you drive on gravel, there is a bryakotok of roofing felts in the steering wheel, roofing felts in the steering column, you try to hold the steering wheel tightly;

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Video (click to play).

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DIY Kia Sportage steering rack repair

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