DIY Lancer 10 steering rack repair

Do you hear an unpleasant knock at the front of the car when driving over small potholes? Do the beats go to the steering wheel and increase in amplitude over time? These are clear signs that an urgent need to pay attention to the condition of the steering rack.

Also, one of the signs of its malfunction is that large potholes of the car pass almost silently, but small shagreen - on the contrary. In this case, it is not at all necessary to sign up in the queue at the service station.

Initial diagnostics of serviceability, as well as adjusting the steering rack on a Mitsubishi Lancer with your own hands, is quite easy. Is it possible to repair or replace, and what is the reason for this malfunction, let's try to figure it out.

The reliability of the steering mechanism in Japanese cars is designed for 150-200 thousand km. But these are only approximate indicators that can change in one direction or another.

The steering gear fails for the following reasons:

• high travel speed on uneven roads;
• failure to inspect the rubber anthers of the steering rack leads to the ingress of small particles, with the subsequent destruction of the rubbing elements;
• replacement of the hydraulic fluid, which is carried out from time to time or a poor-quality mixture is used.

You should also pay attention to the above reasons leading to premature repairs because the steering rack is a very expensive part for Japanese cars. Replacing with a used part is a temporary solution to the problem, it costs a little less to restore it, but it is also quite costly. When driving on uneven roads, the seals, rod and slider are depleted.

In order to accurately determine the cause, you need to contact a specialist and check the condition of the steering tips and rods. It is difficult to do this without a special tool and relevant experience. Steering elements (tie rod ends) also become a frequent cause of knocking when driving through shallow holes.

You can check the condition of the ball joints yourself; for this, jack up the left and right front wheel alternately and stagger, holding it with both hands. If no knocking is heard, then everything is in order.

Adjustment of the Lancer steering rack is carried out in order not to aggravate the situation, which may result in the replacement of seals and even overhaul of the entire unit. In this case, it is cheaper to prevent the problem than to eliminate its consequences.

The steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer is tightened with an adjusting bolt that holds the bearing. During the operation of the vehicle, the bearing is weakened and needs to be tightened.

Adjustment procedure:

1. Position the vehicle in a pit and block the front wheels with wheel chocks.
2. Set the steering wheel straight.
3. Remove dust and dirt from the place where the adjusting screw is attached to the steering rack (located at the bottom).
4. Use a white marker to draw a vertical line along the factory locknut and adjusting screw.
5. Using a non-sharp chisel and hammer, loosen the lock nut with gentle counterclockwise blows.
6. While holding the lock nut with a 41 mm wrench, insert the hexagon into the adjusting screw and tighten (clockwise) until the torque wrench reads 23 N / m, and then loosen the screw 30 degrees.
7. Make sure, by easily turning the steering wheel 15-20 degrees, that no knocking is heard.
8. If the knock remains, reduce the screw looseness to 20 degrees, to achieve the disappearance of extraneous sounds.
9. Start the engine and turn it to the extreme positions until it stops, thus checking whether the rail is biting.
10. Tighten the lock nut, taking care that the adjusting screw remains stationary (refer to the vertical marks left during disassembly).

It is important to make this adjustment so as not to overtighten the adjusting screw. The steering wheel will stop beating, but the effort required to turn the steering wheel will increase significantly. In this case, it is not worth relying on the fact that the problem will disappear and that over time it will become easier to turn. The screw must be loosened urgently.

You need to be prepared for the fact that it will be difficult to carry out the adjustment due to the limited space and the lack of a special tool. In the first case, it is better to remove the steering rack together with the subframe, although you can not resort to this, and in the second, to make a device from a 17 mm bolt 10-15 cm long, turning the required screw, after having previously processed the head with an angle machine to the same shape, as with the adjusting screw.

In order not to look for information on how to tighten the steering rack on the Lancer, use these simple tips: watch out for rubber boots. For long-term operation, after washing the car, treat them with a protective silicone spray. If cracks appear on the protective products, immediately replace them with a mandatory change of grease.

Do not hold the steering wheel in the extreme positions for more than 5 seconds. This puts additional stress on the power steering. In winter, when starting to move (especially on an unheated car), smoothly turn the steering wheel, while avoiding driving in extreme positions.

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It is clear that due to factory defects, even on fresh cars with low mileage, the rail reminds of its existence all the time. But in this case, the defect progressed rapidly due to human intervention. Here's a movie:

.. Who is this person is a mystery, most likely in the past he worked part-time as an electrician, otherwise how can one explain the use of plastic clamps for attaching the anthers of the steering rods.

... resulting in severe corrosion of the rack and pinion shaft.

... and here is the consequences of the torn anther of the steering link. "Mega rust"

... in the latter case, irreversible wear of the gear pair. Conclusion - a simple operation of replacing the anthers of the steering rods, in the presence of “crooked hands”, may result in the purchase of a new steering mechanism for you. price.

... proceeding to disassembly. the bolt in the cabin.

... massive subframe with a longitudinal beam.

... lower the stretcher on the rack.

... dismantle the rear engine mount.

... remove the plastic clamps holding the wire harness el. amplifier motor. the harness goes into the salon and it is unclear whether there is a connector on the power wires - they did not look for it, it is easier to turn the motor away from the rail in place and hang it from the body on a hook.

... we carefully disassemble the mechanism - we restore the shaft - we make all the necessary modifications so that the rail does not knock.

Consider what the Lancer 10 steering rack consists of, signs of a malfunction of the steering rack, the main causes of breakage and wear of the rails, how best to diagnose a malfunction of the steering rack and repair the steering rack.

Car enthusiasts say: "Without a steering wheel, a car is a tracked tractor." And the steering rack, together with the steering gear, is the most important part of the car. So it should be okay. And listen to the stories: "I drove 40 thousand with a knocking rail", at least inadvertently. Just imagine the situation: a speed of 90 km / h, a sharp turn. Your steering wheel is your own wheel. And this can easily happen if the steering rack is faulty - a mechanism that transfers the steering force to the wheels, and therefore repair or replacement of the steering rack is required.

Steering rack of any car, including steering rack mitsubishi, - not the most complicated mechanism in a car, it consists of three main parts:

• Power steering gear - it transfers the steering force to the wheels;
• Steering rod - a rack is attached to it;
• Movable hinges - on wheels.

And due to its simple and reliable design, it rarely fails. But our roads can “kill” everything, especially if we add aggressive driving style to bad roads in the style: “More speed - fewer holes”.

Even more than the driving style, the lifespan of the rail depends on the brand of car.

It's time for you to go to a car service if, according to your feelings, the steering rack:

• knocks
• the steering wheel does not rotate well
• when rotating, there is a backlash or a whistle is heard
• on a bad road, the steering wheel starts to "beat"
• a hum is heard
• steering rack leaks

You can, of course, unwind it yourself and see it visually, but experts will do it faster and better using high-precision instruments than you can by touch. Therefore, if you are going to carry out, for example, repair of the l200 steering rack, then in order to save time and effort, it is better to contact the service.

Sometimes the problem is solved by adjusting the steering rack. But there are three reasons why it is better to entrust the procedure to a car service.

1) It is impossible for one person to adjust the steering rack.

3) Equipment is required, which is not available in every garage.

For adjustment, the machine is placed on a flyover and the adjusting screw, which is located in the end cover, is tightened.

The screw should be tightened slowly while checking the rudder travel and play. According to GOST, the backlash should not exceed 10º. The master uses a special device - a backlash meter. After adjustment, the machine is tested on the move, and if the steering wheel is tight, the screw is loosened.

Complete replacement of the steering rack of a Mitsubishi is not cheap. Therefore, many thrifty drivers prefer to branded spare parts either Chinese counterparts, or disassembled parts and even remanufactured parts. Such a repair, of course, will cost a penny, but after 3 months, maximum, in six months it will have to be repeated.

By entrusting the repair of the Mitsubishi steering rack to a car service, you will be sure that the repair kit (including bushings, anthers, oil seals, etc.) of normal quality and the repaired mechanism will last a long time, even if analog spare parts for Mitsubishi were used. The car service, in contrast to the flea market, provides a guarantee for its services and is interested in the quality of the repair.

For repair, the steering rack will have to be completely disassembled, washed and cleaned of rust. In garage repairs, the wear of parts is determined "by eye", in a car service - with the help of high-precision instruments, so repairs can be even cheaper than garage repairs. After all, you can make a mistake and recognize as unfit a part that can still serve.

During service repairs, all parts will be checked for beating, consumables will be replaced, anthers will be diagnosed and the condition of the steering rods will be found out.

Repairing a Mitsubishi steering rack in a car service, whether it is a Lancer 10 steering rack, a Mitsubishi Karisma steering rack or another Mitsubishi model, will not take much time. If the rail has already been removed from the car, then the repair will not last more than 2 hours. If dismantling is necessary, repairing the steering rack will take no more than eight hours.

Our regular customers do not have such questions. They come to us because:

• Professionals work here who do not "cheat" motorists for money, but honestly diagnose and fix breakdowns.
• There are all three types of parts: branded, analog and autoparsing, so you can choose the repair that suits you best.
• We give a guarantee for our work.
• Regular customers receive discounts on repairs and maintenance.

And if you are with us for the first time, and have not yet decided why you need to become our regular customer, we will give you just one reason:

Our car service technicians are always happy to help you repair or replace the Mitsubishi steering rack!

Many owners of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 are faced with the problem of knocking front suspension parts.And although many people most often suspect ball, struts or tie rods, very often the steering rack is the culprit for the knock. How to determine its breakdown and replace, if necessary, we will talk a little later, but now let's analyze the prices for this part.

One of the most expensive options is replacing the rail with the original one. Of course, if you decide to buy the original, you can be sure of its quality, but it will cost you about 250 USD. The price is considerable, but another plus is that you can be sure of its full compliance, you do not have to adjust and adapt something.

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The article of the new rail for lancer x mr491876.

Another way to solve this problem is to purchase a new, but non-original part. You can choose a rail of a reliable, proven brand, at a good price-quality ratio.

In this case, the price can range from, approximately, 5,500 rubles. up to 8,000 rubles. In order to order exactly what you need, use the sites on which, as accurately as possible, you can enter the data of your car.

You need to know exactly the data of the motor and box, otherwise you run the risk of ordering the wrong thing, and being doomed to rework or buy another rail, both of these options will not be cheap.

Well, the most economical option is to replace the rail with a contract one. Many services or Internet portals offer to install used rails and even assure that they have passed diagnostics, restoration and are fully functional. Believe them or not - your business, but if there is a possibility, it is better to find an offer in your city or in its outskirts. So, you will have the opportunity to see with your own eyes what you are giving money for before buying. And you will have to pay approximately 5,000 rubles.

The first thing that can say about the breakage of the rail is a knock when driving over bumps at a low speed. This knock is quite strong and vibrates the steering wheel. Backlash may appear or the steering wheel may not be as smooth. Another symptom is a decrease in the level of hydraulic fluid in the EUR. Although the Lancers are equipped with electric, and not hydraulic boosters, you still need to carefully monitor the fluid level.

How to determine what exactly is causing a crunch or knock on the steering rack? There are two ways.

• First, diagnostics are carried out at the stand or visually, on a removed rail. Of course, this method is more accurate and informative, but also more expensive and time consuming.
• The second option is to visually inspect the rail with an electric amplifier on the pit and by clicking on the parts one by one, try to determine the source of the sound.

The following items should be checked: steering end, tie rod, left and right bushings and bearing. Of course, if the funds allow, and you are not a fan of doing everything with your own hands, then it would be good to contact a reliable service center so that the masters would carry out a full diagnosis and give clear recommendations.

If you managed to accurately determine the cause of the breakdown of the steering rack, and you have found the source of the knock, then you need to replace this part and the knock should disappear. In the case when it is not possible to detect backlash on the parts, the next step is to try to tighten the rail. This should be done on the installed part. The tightening bolt itself can be found on the steering rack through the hood of the car. The problem is that it is in the melt, and when the rail is installed, it is rather difficult to reach it with the head.

Alternatively, you can turn the spanner key on the machine, and then you will get access. Pulling up should be done gradually. Tucking a little, you need to ride the car, if the knock has not disappeared, you need to tighten it again. If the steering wheel stops freely returning the wheels to the level position, and the knock has not disappeared, the tightening will not help you.In this case, it makes no sense to repair the rail, most likely you will have to change it.

In the event of a fluid leak, a common remedy is to replace all seals that deteriorate and dry out over the years. All of these oil seals can be purchased as part of a repair kit that matches your car. The price of a set of oil seals is, on average, about 2,000 rubles. It is very easy to order it on many sites selling auto parts. It's up to you to replace them yourself or contact the service, but it's very difficult to do it yourself and without a special puller.

If your heroic efforts to save the old rail did not help and the knock or leak remained, then there is only one way out - to change it to a new one. A detailed video and a diagram of how to do this are in the network. You should start from the salon. It is necessary, after removing the plastic plug, to disconnect the shaft that leads from the steering wheel to the rack. After that, it is necessary to dismantle the front mudguard and the crankcase protection, and then remove both wheels. Then carefully disconnect the wiring of the electric amplifier, being careful not to damage it. We unscrew the bolts fastening to the pillow and proceed to the removal of the electric motor.

We disconnect the tips and further, remove the subframe from the front side, so that it starts to sag in front and stay in the back. Then you need to unscrew the rail from the pillows. After dismantling all the bolts securing the rail will be completely removed. You will have the opportunity to more closely examine the cause of the breakdown, as well as inspect all parts of this unit for wear and, if necessary, replace everything at once. If the catalog number of the spare part is preserved on the old rail, this will serve as a guarantee that the new rail will fully fit.

After installing a new part, which is produced in the reverse order, it is worth thinking about how to extend its life. Many experienced craftsmen give one simple but important piece of advice. Since moisture, water, dirt and dust from the road, when it gets inside the rail, lead to rapid wear of the part mechanisms, it is important to monitor the condition of the protective boot. If you notice that it is torn or the clamps are loose, it is important to fix it as soon as possible. So, this unit of your car will last much longer.

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Brownie Lancer X

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Brownie Lancer X

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Is registered: 23.12.
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Acknowledgments: 1022 pcs.

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[img]
6. We order a new fluoroplastic bushing from the turner
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7. Pressing in a new bushing should fit tightly. then insert the shaft. With a new bushing, it should go tighter than with the original. We expose the shaft according to marks or measurements and put the gearbox in place. We assemble the mechanism of the clamping biscuit, tighten the cork until it stops and release it by 1/4 of a turn, lock it
8. Putting everything in reverse order

Bottom line: the rumble in the helmsman decreased by 70%, the steering wheel became tighter (it returns when exiting the turn). But the knocks when the steering wheel was rolling and the rumble in the gearbox remained in the near future, I think to delve into it and find the reason

Brownie Lancer X

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Is registered: 23.12.
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Acknowledgments: 1022 pcs.

Modern cars are often the pinnacle of design masterpieces. The Japanese car industry is especially proud of this, in particular, the Mitsubishi concern, which over and over again produces the most reliable cars.One of these was Mitsubishi Lancer 10. But, as in all human creations, nothing is eternal. Unfortunately, sooner or later the moment comes when even the most perfect car needs to be repaired. The whole question is what this repair can cost.

For the driver, the most frightening sound is a knock in the front. And it doesn't matter where he is from: from under the hood or below. We will not consider the first option, but in the second case, the knock may well mean that a terrible thing has happened - the steering rack of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 is covered.

How does this happen? At first, a small noise appears, at first barely noticeable on small potholes, which gradually increases and already hits the steering wheel noticeably. And after a while, any uneven road is perceived by you with such a feeling as if you are driving on a large grater or are in a washing machine. The steering wheel begins to constantly "sausage", the wheels are merrily emitting a real drum roll. And this manifests itself, as a rule, only on small road irregularities, but the car will pass deeper holes quietly, without noise and knocking. And if, even after parking, large greasy spots of transmission fluid appear under your car, then there are all the signs that the steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 has ordered a long life. Of course, you shouldn't despair right away, the steering rack can be repaired.

The main reason for the early wear of the rack is, of course, the condition of the roads, especially if you like to ride on forest or rural bumps and bumps or diligently do not miss a single city hole or particularly dusty streets and at the same time do not check the integrity of the anthers on the steering rack. In any of these cases, dirt gets inside the steering rack, it starts to wear out faster, to leak, in general, unpleasant consequences.

Another factor may be the love of some drivers to leave their car with inverted wheels in winter. Or they forget that it is necessary to change the hydraulic fluid of the hydraulic booster system in a timely manner. This is the obvious fault of the driver.
Most often, the stem, slider or seal fail. But it may well turn out that the ball joints on the tip or steering rod have worn out. If so, you are relatively fortunate, as the repair work done with the steering rack is not cheap. But the Lancer X tie rod is relatively inexpensive, so you should not be upset before the diagnosis of a car service.

But if, nevertheless, the problem is in the steering rack itself, then this is already a reason to think. For Lancer X, a steering rack from official dealers can cost, according to the owners of these handsome men, up to one hundred thousand rubles. How does it feel?
True, there are analogues. They can cost you less, "only" from thirty to fifty thousand. In general, sloppy trips can hit your wallet quite well. Fortunately, the steering rack can often be repaired. So, a repair kit can cost from three to five thousand rubles. Another option would be to search for a steering rack at auto dismantlers. True, here the chances, as they say, are fifty to fifty, you need to look carefully, and it is better with an understanding person. But for repair work, if, of course, you are not an expert yourself, you can safely save at least ten thousand rubles. In this case, the car will stay in the service for a day and a half, at least. Suspension work is usually very time consuming and costly.

And the advice here, in fact, is the same: drive as carefully as possible. Lancer 10, for all its reliability, clearly does not pretend to be an SUV class. This is a powerful, stylish car, but still a sports car, off-road and dusty streets are not for him. At least not with great frequency. And always pay attention, that is, regularly check the anthers on the rail. You know that it is easier to prevent a problem than to eliminate it later, otherwise it is very expensive to eliminate it in this case.

Owners of such reliable

Cars, like Mitsubishi, rarely encounter malfunctions in the early years of auto operation. The steering rack, in this sense, is no exception, since its working resource is 200 thousand kilometers, and with correct operation it is often even more.

However, if this unit still fails, replacement will cost the car owner dearly, primarily due to the high cost of the element itself.

In most cases, a damaged rail can be restored without loss for its performance and, most importantly, road safety.

The main cause of breakdown

The quality of our roads is unsatisfactory - a hole in front of which it is impossible to brake can easily be encountered even by the most experienced driver. Overcoming any unevenness of the road surface and obstacles at high speed leads to increased load on the rail and, as a result, accelerates its wear.

Another reason is the lack of timely preventive maintenance of the site. So, it is necessary to constantly monitor the power steering fluid level, replace oil seals and other quickly wearing elements in time and perform other necessary operations.

Determine that this unit needs extraordinary diagnostics and, possibly, repair, the driver can do it on his own - it is enough to carefully monitor the controllability of the car, noticing even minor changes.

The most common signs of a malfunctioning rail are

:

1. The characteristic knock of a car suspension. At first, it is barely noticeable and arises when driving through irregularities, therefore it is heard constantly and is given by a "beating" in the steering wheel.
2. It takes a lot more effort to turn the steering wheel than before. Corrosion is usually the source of the problem.
3. Vehicle drifts to the side when driving at high speed. If you turn the steering wheel strongly to either side, it does not come back.
4. The presence of oily drips of power steering fluid on the asphalt, if the car has been parked in one place for a long time.

It is usually impossible to determine exactly what the cause of the malfunctions is without a comprehensive diagnosis of the unit. Several methods are used for this:

1. Visual assessment of the integrity and performance of the assembly prior to its dismantling.
2. Computer diagnostics on a high-precision test bench simulating several modes of car operation. Allows you to identify even the smallest malfunctions.
3. Troubleshooting of each individual element.

Removing the steering rack is accompanied by certain difficulties, since it requires the dismantling of nearby nodes to ensure free access.

In the process of disassembly, the craftsmen thoroughly clean each element using chemical compounds and a sandblaster. This removes traces of corrosion, if any. Often, this operation replaces repair, if the unsatisfactory handling of the car was associated precisely with corrosive damage to the elements.

Quite often you can find

Mitsubishi cars that have become "victims" of poor-quality steering rack repair. The reason is that CTR tie rods are used as more budgetary counterparts for spare parts. In general, they are of a fairly high quality, however, their diameter in the places where the anthers are attached to them is somewhat smaller than that of the original part.

The result of this barely perceptible discrepancy is that the clamps are not tightly gripping the anthers. The tightness is lost, and dirt gets into this gap. All this leads to the fact that after repair the shaft is very quickly affected by corrosion - about six months of operation is enough.

In most cases

the performance of the rail can be restored. Sometimes, for repairs, it is enough to clean the elements from corrosion and flush the system. In other cases, it will be necessary to replace the repair kit, which includes all the most damaged elements of the assembly - oil seals, anthers, etc. As in the case of the draft, it is better not to save on the repair kit.The reason is that during operation it is subject to very serious loads, and in the case of using not too high-quality analogs, the elements will wear out very quickly. As a result, other parts of the rail will suffer, the cost of which may be several times higher than the original repair kit.

Repair of this unit is impractical in only two cases:

1. When the rail has received severe damage, for example, in an accident, fire or extremely poor-quality repairs. In this case, you should not risk driving safety by trying to restore such a unit; it is better to replace it with a new one.
2. If the parts are badly worn out, it will be more profitable to install a new assembly assembly, rather than changing a lot of spare parts, restoring the resource of the old one.

It is possible to develop the resource of the node to the maximum without replacing it if you follow the following recommendations:

1. Observe the speed limit when driving over obstacles and uneven road surfaces, try to maneuver smoothly without very sharp turns of the steering wheel.
2. Come to the car service for preventive system diagnostics at least twice a year.
3. Change consumables in a timely manner and monitor the amount and quality of power steering fluid in the tank. It is necessary to completely change it every three hundred thousand kilometers.