Japanese cars are renowned for their quality. But in domestic conditions, they need regular care. Today's review will show you how to professionally repair a mazda 6 steering rack.
This node on the machines of this family is largely traditional, but there are still some nuances in its design.The fact is that sedans or station wagons of different years of production differ in a number of systems, and steering is also on this list.
All of these parts are brought together into one unit, which is fastened with three bolts to the subframe.
It works like this. The control unit (EPS) receives signals from the steering column sensor and the ABS units, as well as the motor. The same EPS regulates the operation of the steering gear motor to provide the required torque.
For a more detailed acquaintance, let's see how the Mazda 6 gg steering rack (first generation) is arranged. The main difference from more "fresh" cars is that instead of the EUR there is a hydraulic booster, which is familiar to many, with a tube for supplying ATF and a "return" running on the rail. This whole system is complemented by a distributor. Well, there are already more seals here.
With our roads, you have to be on the lookout all the time, especially the owners of foreign cars.
Such signs are familiar to experienced motorists. It can be said to be pure mechanics combined with hydraulics. The steering rack of the Mazda 6 gh can be distinguished by malfunctions of the electric booster and its sensors. In this case, the driver will face the above-mentioned troubles.
Customers who come to the service formulate them simply - "creaked", "heavy" or "flowed". For convenience, we will divide the reasons into the same groups.
With infrequent prevention, this is the difference between the Mazda 6 gg steering rack, which only speeds up the repair.
Leaks are simple - a loose or punctured oil seal is a common problem. Less often, the tubes themselves or the tank are damaged.
All this affects the work of the EUR.
The first step is a visual inspection. Pay particular attention to such moments:
This is the very beginning, but even such examinations allow you to immediately identify a defect. The next stage requires not only a tool, but also the experience of a serviceman, since disassembly will be required with further troubleshooting and replacement of problem parts.
Many owners make repairs to the Mazda 6 rail on their own, but for nodes that directly affect safety, it is better to contact a service.
This method is considered the simplest if you need to remove knocking, backlash or a little "soften" the steering wheel. True, in some cases it is no longer possible to do it.
Such operations are reduced to broaching (or replacing) the adjusting screw. It is located under the column cover. When it is removed, the cross will become visible, at the bottom of which the desired bolt is located.
In this case, the clutch is also removed, and new grease is put on the shaft splines. On its halves there are marks on which they are guided during assembly.
On machines from the first series, this work requires a fair amount of accuracy - the spline may be knocked down a little, and without the necessary skill, it may be necessary to re-repair the old Mazda 6 gg rail.
For more "older" sedans of the gg line, the procedure is done in the same way, only with an amendment to the power steering - the fluid is drained, and you have to work carefully with the spool.
Such operations "on the knee" are unlikely to be carried out - not every garage has all the pullers, let alone the machines. Therefore, service comes into play. Masters who value their reputation will never "catch up" the price or insist on an urgent replacement, but will calmly explain everything.
Even in their own yard, road workers or the weather can leave a "surprise", so experienced drivers willingly share their advice ... In order for the Mazda 6 steering rack to please with a long resource, you will need:
We looked at how the steering racks are maintained on Mazda sixths of various generations. We hope our tips come in handy. Good roads!
For no apparent reason, the steering wheel began to be shifted to the right.There is a noticeable difference in the effort on the steering wheel when turning left and right, a tight steering wheel, extraneous sounds when rotating the steering wheel, rustling of bearings, knocking on the steering rack on uneven road sections.
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The reason for the tight steering wheels (the EUR does not create the necessary effort, there is no steering lightness) and the car's slip to the right is in the failed torque sensor. The photo below shows two sensors, one of which is cracked. We repaired the steering rack with the purchase of a sensor (7,000 rubles) and replacement.
The steering rack bearings, thrust bush were also replaced, the Mazda 6 GH steering rack was calibrated. After the repair, the effort on the steering wheel was the same, the steering wheel became light.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, put the steering wheel straight and unscrew the steering gimbal with the head on 12. Disconnect it from the steering rack, fix the steering wheel with a seat belt (so as not to damage the train). We raise the car, remove the rail, clamp the rail in a vice, unscrew the rods from the steering rack shaft. Using a 10 head, unscrew the three bolts of the torque sensor and remove the sensor.
Before disassembling the unit, we put marks on the steering rack housing.
After parsing, we see a broken sensor that must be replaced.
We unscrew the nut of the clamping mechanism with a tetrahedron, remove the spring and the clamp itself.
We remove the distributor from the steering rack housing.
With a 12 head, unscrew six bolts (right and left of the steering rack), three on each side.
We use the penetrating liquid WD40, using a screwdriver, half the rail.
Using a special wrench, unscrew the bearing clamping nut.
We remove the shaft together with the bearing from the housing, inspect the bearing, whether there is any backlash or rust.
To replace the bearing in the motor rotor speed sensor housing: we drill out the factory nibbling, using a puller with extreme care without damaging the sensor winding, lift it up and remove the bearing with light hammer blows through a drift. Its size is 35x55x10.
In this case, it was necessary to replace the bearing due to the ingress of moisture into the steering rack housing, which led to the center-to-center play of the bearing. Note: the Internet is full of information about the ‘miracle’ ’lubrication of bearings, no lubricant can remove the backlash and depletion of the bearing. Only replacement of the Mazda 6 GH rack bearing its size is 40x67x24.
We knock out the stopper in the distributor and install a new torque sensor.
We assemble in the reverse order (do not forget to apply lubricant to the rubbing parts of the steering rack), make adjustments, check for backlash.
After installation, we calibrate the Mazda 6 GH steering rack.
Do not scold or beat me too much, there are a LOT of pictures, so I will give links to pictures.
It appears like this. A year ago, a torn left boot was noticed on the rail, but for some reason it so happened that it was not up to him =)
And just recently, once again, when inspecting the car, my eyes fell on this very sad boot and all this snot around it.
And since “Our hands are not for boredom” the rail was sentenced to be repaired. Were ordered: RemKit steering rack (consisting of 4 oil seals), steering tips, tie rods and one boot. All this arrived safely and rode with me in the car for almost two weeks.
2) Unscrew with a 17 key, a fitting with a tube.
3) Unscrew the nut with a key of 10. Otherwise, the tube that we unscrewed cannot be moved away.
4) With a small ratchet for 12, we twist the steering shaft cardan.
5) We take out the steering tips from the steering knuckle.
Then it starts more interesting =)
6) You need to try hard and unscrew the steering rack bolts with a 14 head. Unscrewing two of them is not a problem,
Unscrewed !?
Did you remember a lot of swear words !? Well let's go further =)
7) With a 17 key, unscrew and remove the axle bolt of the rear engine mount
8) With the same key 17 or a head, from BOTH sides, unscrew the bolts and nuts of the subframe
In principle, the support could not have been put, the stretcher did not go far, but I made sure to be on the safe side just in case
9) Having unscrewed the stretcher, we got the very same 2-3 cm that did not allow us to pull the rail out of the bowels of the engine compartment
HOORAY . The rail is in our hands.
But you need to continue. And we, with the rail in our hands, go to the operating table.
Never mind the creative mess. in general, my entire instrument is sterile =))
10) We fix the rail in the yew, remove the anthers and unscrew the steering rods, a key for 30 (adjustable and gas key RULES =))
This is what we have left
and on the other hand, respectively
11) Remove the retaining ring and under it we already see one of the 4 oil seals
12) Loosen the lock nut from the "steering rack adjustment mechanism"
13) Using a special key for 22, we unscrew the “adjustment mechanism”. You need to be careful not to run through a small spring, otherwise it's a disaster =)
As an introduction, I will say that it was a weekend that I will never forget! It is usually customary to write thanks at the end of the recording, but this is not the case. I want to say a huge thank you to Andrey (penaplast) both for researching the steering rack itself on our cars, ways to replace the bushing, and for helping and consulting me. Honestly, if not for Andrey, then many would have rattled their racks further or brought a lot of money into the services. Since I am respectful of other people's intellectual property, there will be no special details in my entry, all the questions are on the link above. There is no impossible work, there is poor preparation. And so it happened with me, so the work lasted for 2 days, due to the lack of some tools and a clear understanding of how to remove the steering rod.
Regarding the bushing - in THIS thread on the my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2208 forum, a group purchase of SKF bushings was organized and I bought myself one. Alternatively, they order bushings from China, they are exiled on the last pages of the specified topic.
On the first day, the steering universal joint was oiled, as well as the shafts under the anthers on both sides. I would recommend this procedure to everyone. It's not so difficult to do this, but knocks at the joints of the asphalt removes with a bang.
On the second day, it turned out to remove the rack stocking and finally replace the bushing itself. Lubricating the shaft on the right side the day before was not the best idea, because all this grease had to be cleaned before replacing the bushing. Do not forget to remove the terminal from the battery before removing the rail stocking.
This is what the shaft looks like on the right side. No lubrication is observed.
Lubricate the shaft on the left side
Shaft lubrication on the right side
If someone gets an anther like that, do not worry, it will return to normal over time.
Finally, the tie rod is removed
The old bushing is waiting for replacement.
The new sleeve has taken its place
Hello everyone! Today I realized what was long planned and haunted by all Mashek owners. I ordered the bushings back in July, received them in early September, and only got around to getting my hands on it today. I ordered an SKF bushing. The replacement operation has been described for a long time and in many places. Largely thanks to a comrade with the nickname Penoplast. Respect to him for the information! So what he did: He took off the stocking from the rail. How to take it off the sea, I see no reason to describe it for the hundred and first time.
Next, he pulled off the new bushing with a clamp to simulate its crimping. And put it on the shaft.
It is necessary to ensure that the clearance between the shaft and the bushing is 0.1 - 0.2 mm. If it is less, it can bite the shaft when the rack heats up. If there is more, the knock will remain.
I immediately had a gap of 0.1 mm. Given that the shaft has a diameter of 24.1 mm. Meryl with a caliper. And I checked the gap by pushing the probe under the sleeve on the shaft. Although, very often people have to adjust the sleeve to the desired gap, grinding off a little metal from it in the place of the cut.Apparently, my shaft is not worn out. By the way, the diameter of the shaft is the same for me along its entire length. Those. there is no development in the zero position of the rudder. I was also very pleased that under the anther there was perfect cleanliness and the complete absence of traces of water.
Then, I pressed the sleeve into the stocking, lubricated the shaft with lithol and put everything back together.
The shaft play is gone, and there are no more knocks) In general, I'm glad) I bought the bushing for 95 rubles. It's surprising that not all Mazdovody know the number of this bushing by heart)))))
Here is its number: PCM 242715 E.
Good luck to everyone and thank you for your attention!
Price tag: 95 ₽ Mileage: 123,500 km
The steering rack of the Mazda 6, its weak point ... At work I saw a Mazda with a full set on the rail: where the steering wheel turned with different efforts, and pulled to one side. Fortunately, this sore did not affect my Mazda. The only nuance of the rail on my car, there was a knock on the right side, it manifested itself when passing a rail, and an uneven road. As everyone knows, there is a SKF PCM242715E bushing, which everyone puts and forget about the problem. I found this sleeve on Avito, about 500 rubles came out with delivery
There is nothing complicated about replacing, I do not see any point in describing the point because there are many similar entries on the drive and on Google.An important factor is the very condition of the steering shaft, there is often a case where the shaft is corroded from moisture entering the anthers, then there is no point in repairing. My shaft was in excellent condition. It was not difficult to knock out the old bushing.
The new bushing came in harder
Feels like I will say one thing, how many rails I fingered and rode on these cars after repair, I did not notice much difference because I heard other extraneous sounds, breaks in the cabin, etc. that did not give me general silence. In your own car, when you already know where what knocks and squeaks, this unpleasant knock on the right side disappeared.
Price tag: 500 ₽ Mileage: 125,000 km
The steering racks of the Mazda-6 II GH rack are manufactured by Matsuda Kabushikigaysha (Mazda Motor Corporation).
Rail numbers: GS1D32110, GS1E32110, GS1E32110A, GS1E32110B
The steering rack of the second generation Mazda-6 was made using the latest technologies of that time.
Its mechanics are based on the Screw-Ball Nut and a lightweight power motor rotor based on neodymium super magnets.
The advantage of such a scheme is low parasitic friction and a small moment of inertia of the rotor, which directly affects the car's handling.
However, the Mazda-6 II GH steering rack strain gauge is not reliable. It is made according to the scheme of two balancing inductive coils with a floating aluminum spring-loaded core, which, as it moves, changes the inductance of the coils (due to the appearance of the eddy-current effect (Foucault currents)). The main drawback of the Mazda-6 steering rack strain gauge lies in the mechanical drive of the core. The plastic clutch with helical grooves wears out or sticks resulting in unpredictable forces on the steering wheel of the Mazda-6.
Most often, the steering wheel of the Mazda-6 II GH is greatly facilitated or even begins to rotate itself to the right side, making repair of a steering rack Mazda-6 II GH urgent.
In such cases, you can, of course, purchase and install a Mazda-6 II GH steering rack strain gauge repair kit. Fortunately, it is sold separately.
Its number is GS1F-32-12Y. However, such a repair kit is not cheap at all. And it's a pity to spend money if there is a cheaper way. The company Gidrolab has learned to qualitatively restore the parts of the strain gauge when repairing the steering rack of the Mazda-6 II GH, which is much cheaper and no less high quality.
Also, repairing the load cell is only half the battle. Knocks and backlash also accumulate over time in breadcrumbs, bushings and in the very screw-ball nut of the Mazda-6 steering rack.
Repair of a screw-ball nut is a particularly responsible matter, since if it is incorrectly assembled, it can jam, and its repair is associated with the selection and installation of balls of repair size.
When repairing the steering rack Mazda-6 II GH the company Gidrolab replaces all bushings, crackers, bearings and other wearing parts, sets up and adapts the electrical parameters of the rail.Is given guarantee 13 months .
Regarding the repair of steering racks on Mazda-6, Gidrolab LLC works both with individuals on orders, and with organizations under a service agreement and non-cash payment.
The quality and resource of the repaired rail is not inferior to the new original one. Come and see for yourself!
This rail is nothing more than a part of the steering, or rather a special unit-mechanism. Which serves to evenly distribute the power load from the column to the wheels. Initially, the effort that the driver sets is directed from the steering wheel to the column, which, in turn, is connected to the rack.
Thus, we came to the conclusion that the Mazda steering mechanism works according to the generally accepted principle of all cars and, moreover, is in all Mazda modifications.
Now let's get down to it, that is, let's take a closer look at the Mazda steering rack device. So, this device consists of: a support sleeve and a spool mechanism, but the gear shaft is considered the most dominant element. This is a standard device for this car model.
For example, my Mazda 6 steering rack has become unusable. Therefore, I consider it necessary to clarify some truths. Since the Mazda 3 steering rack is also not immune from such troubles.
There are so-called common reasons for rack wear. First of all, this is the natural quality of our roads, caused by regular shaking in the pits and increased dust formation.
If the driver is not averse to driving around, not noticing the holes and not slowing down in front of them, then he should be prepared for the rake to knock very soon. To prevent this from happening, and in an instant the node does not begin to leak, you need to often look at the state of the anthers and their integrity. If you miss a tiny hole, the leak will make itself felt immediately. And it will happen like this: dirt will start to enter the hole and the seals will quickly wear out.
However, it is worth knowing that, by and large, the Mazda steering rack and its very work, still depend on the driver. How many times does a car stand in the cold with its wheels turned out? There are many and the consequences of this attitude are unambiguous, failure of the rail, especially the hydraulic one.
For example, on a Mazda 6 station wagon in 2012, a restored rail, not new, can be bought for $ 500. And for 6 Mazda model 1992-97, with the 1.8 engine, you will have to pay off $ 300 and this is also a restored version. Naturally, the new one costs an order of magnitude more expensive, plus the work of the craftsmen.
The new rake on the Mazda 3 costs a lot of money, so it doesn't make us happy either, the same remanufactured version will cost $ 450 for almost all three. So, alas, the river is worth keeping.
If we talk about the most frequent breakdowns, then the Mazda steering mechanism suffers more often from wear: the slide, the rod and the seals. And the work on fixing and replacing parts is very expensive in this model.
It is possible to clarify a little and the assessment of work in this direction, so the restoration of the Mazda 6 steering rack will cost in rubles, about 6,000-6500 thousand. And then if it is removed, as well as removal and installation cost 2-2.5 thousand.
As for the others, the Mazda 3 steering rack the repair price is no less. In other words, repairing the rail for all Mazda models costs about the same, the only difference is the price of the rail itself.
Many drivers are often interested in what is included in the repair of rails and in what sequence it is carried out. This is how it is done.First, the rail is disassembled and all its parts are washed in a special way. Find a faulty one, change it if it is not recoverable. After that, the rack gear shaft is checked and at the same time cleaned. Directly on the steering rack, Mazda is changed: oil seals and rings, anthers and other parts.
By the way, the question remains, why are the slats installed more often than restored ones? Yes, because the new ones are more expensive, and they serve as much as the restored steering racks.
- on the move, a knock is heard in the suspension;
- oil flows from the hydraulic system;
- on bumps, there is a characteristic knock on the steering wheel;
- the power steering pump makes a lot of noise when the engine is running;
- the steering wheel turns a little tight;
- there is more play in the steering wheel.
Here is a list worth paying attention to. In this case, you do not need to go to extremes if you suddenly hear tapping in the suspension area, clearly felt in the steering wheel. Everything may not be so scary, but only the ball on the steering rod or its tip have become unusable.
The most unpleasant thing about the car can be the Mazda steering rack, which gracefully knocks. Here it is, that is exactly what it is - terrible. Plus, it can also leak, leaving transmission fluid oily stains. At the same time, the steering wheel is also slow.
In this case, the slats are diagnosed on the stand in the workshop, under high atmospheric pressure, about 160.
And what to do in this case: give it for repair or buy a new rail. The answer depends on the driver's capabilities, if the finances are not very good, it is better to repair it, and if there is, buy a new or rebuilt one.
Another common problem in Mazda is rail backlash. The signs, which are simple, are the steering wheel backlash, which occurs due to a breakdown of the steering column column or backlash in the rail itself and its structure. Again, then you need to completely disassemble it, rinse it and check it at the stand.
A standard Mazda steering rack repair includes replacing damaged parts: bushings, anthers. o-rings, oil seals and others. However, it also happens that the rail has become completely unusable, then just throw it away and install another one.
The problem of rails, it is generally considered large-scale and does not apply only to these car models. It can be said to be universal and is related to almost all imported cars. This is due to the fact that the bottom of the cars is very low, sometimes there are more bumps on the roads than the clearance parameter can allow.
Thus, it is not only the steering that suffers, but also many other significant components of the machine.
Video (click to play).
Steering rack repair video
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