Japanese cars are famous for their quality. But in domestic conditions, they need regular care. Today's review will show you how to repair a Mazda 6 steering rack professionally.
This node on machines of this family is largely traditional, but there are still nuances in its structure.The fact is that sedans or station wagons of different years of production differ in a number of systems, and steering is also on this list.
All these parts are brought together in one unit, which is fastened with three bolts to the subframe.
It works like this. The control unit (EPS) receives signals from the steering column sensor and ABS units, as well as the motor. The same EPS regulates the operation of the steering gear motor to provide the desired torque.
For a more detailed acquaintance, let's see how the steering rack of the Mazda 6 gg (first generation) is arranged. The main difference from more “fresh” cars is that instead of the EUR there is a hydraulic booster familiar to many with a pipe for ATP supply and a “return” put on the rail. This whole system is supplemented by a distributor. Well, there are already more seals here.
With our roads, we have to be on the alert all the time, especially the owners of foreign cars.
Such signs are familiar to experienced motorists. This, one might say, is pure mechanics combined with hydraulics. The Mazda 6 gh steering rack can "distinguish itself" with malfunctions of the electric power steering and its sensors. In this case, the driver will face the troubles mentioned above.
Customers who come to the service formulate them simply - “creaked”, “heavier” or “leaked”. For convenience, we will break the reasons into the same groups.
With infrequent prevention, this is what distinguishes the Mazda 6 gg steering rack, which only speeds up the repair.
With leaks, everything is simple - a loose or punched gland is a common problem. Less often, the pipes themselves or the tank are damaged.
All this affects the work of the EUR.
The first step is a visual inspection. Particular attention is paid to such moments:
This is the very beginning, but even such inspections allow you to immediately identify the defect. The next stage requires not only a tool, but also the experience of a serviceman, since disassembly with further troubleshooting and replacement of problem parts will be required.
Many owners repair the Mazda 6 rail on their own, but for nodes that directly affect safety, it is better to contact the service.
This method is considered the easiest if you need to remove a knock, play or “soften” the steering wheel a little. True, in some cases it is no longer enough.
Such operations are reduced to pulling (or replacing) the adjusting screw. It is located under the speaker cover. When it is removed, the cross will become visible, at the bottom of which the desired bolt is located.
At the same time, the clutch is also removed, and a new lubricant is applied to the shaft splines. On its halves there are marks that are guided during assembly.
On machines from the first series, this work requires a fair amount of accuracy - the slot can be knocked down a little, and without the necessary skill, it may be necessary to re-repair the old Mazda 6 gg rack.
For more “age” sedans of the gg line, the procedure is done in the same way, only adjusted for the power steering - the liquid is drained, and you have to work carefully with the spool.
Such operations "on the knee" are unlikely to be carried out - not every garage has all the pullers, and even more so the machines. So service comes into play. Masters who value their reputation will never “catch up” on the price or insist on an urgent replacement, but will calmly explain everything.
Even in their own yard, road workers or the weather can leave a “surprise”, so experienced drivers willingly share their advice . In order for the Mazda 6 steering rack to please with a long resource, you will need:
We looked at how steering racks are serviced on the "sixth" Mazda of various generations. We hope our tips are helpful. Good roads!
For no apparent reason, the rudder began to move to the right.There is a noticeable difference in the effort on the steering wheel when turning left and right, a tight steering wheel, extraneous sounds when the steering wheel is rotated, the rustle of bearings, knocks in the steering rack on uneven sections of the road.
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The reason for the tight steering wheels (the EUR does not create the necessary effort, there is no steering lightness) and the car pulls to the right is in a failed torque sensor. The photo below shows two sensors, one of which has a crack. We repaired the steering rack with the purchase of a sensor (7000 rubles) and a replacement.
The steering rack bearings, the thrust bushing were also replaced, the Mazda 6 GH steering rack was calibrated. After the repair, the effort on the steering wheel became the same, the steering wheel became light.
We disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, set the steering wheel straight and unscrew the steering cardan head by 12. Disconnect it from the steering rack, fix the steering wheel with a seat belt (so as not to damage the cable). We raise the car, remove the rack, clamp the rack in a vise, unscrew the rods from the steering rack shaft. With a 10 head, unscrew the three bolts of the torque sensor and remove the sensor.
Before disassembling the unit, we put marks on the steering rack housing.
After parsing, we see a broken sensor that must be replaced.
We unscrew the nut of the clamping mechanism with a tetrahedron, remove the spring and the clamp itself.
We remove the distributor from the steering rack housing.
With a head of 12, we unscrew six bolts (the right and left parts of the steering rack), three on each side.
We use penetrating liquid WD40, use a screwdriver to half the rail.
Using a special wrench, unscrew the bearing clamping nut.
We remove the shaft together with the bearing from the housing, inspect the bearing for play, rust.
To replace the bearing in the housing of the engine rotor speed sensor: we drill the factory punching, using a puller, without damaging the sensor winding, lift it up and remove the bearing with light hammer blows through the punch. Its size is 35x55x10.
In this case, it was necessary to replace the bearing due to the ingress of moisture into the steering rack housing, which led to the center play of the bearing. Note: the Internet is full of information about the “miracle” of bearing lubrication, no lubricant can remove play and bearing wear. Only replacing the rack bearing Mazda 6 GH its size is 40x67x24.
We knock out the stopper in the distributor and install a new torque sensor.
We assemble in the reverse order (do not forget to apply grease to the rubbing parts of the steering rack), we make adjustments, check for backlash.
After installation, we calibrate the Mazda 6 GH steering rack.
Strongly do not scold and do not beat, there are a LOT of photos, so I will give links to photos.
It means so. A year ago, a torn left anther on the rail was noticed, but for some reason it so happened that it was not up to it =)
And recently, once again, when inspecting the car, my eyes fell on this most sad anther and all these snot around it.
And since “Our hands are not for boredom”, the rail was sentenced to repair. Were ordered: Remkomplekt steering rack (consisting of 4 seals), steering tips, tie rods and one anther. All this arrived safely and rode with me in the car for almost two weeks.
2) We turn off the key to 17, the fitting with the tube.
3) We unscrew the nut with a key of 10. Otherwise, the tube that we unscrewed cannot be moved away in any way.
4) With a small ratchet for 12, we wrap the steering shaft cardan.
5) We take out the steering tips from the steering knuckle.
Then it gets more interesting =)
6) You need to try hard and unscrew the steering rack mounting bolts with a 14 head. Unscrewing two of them is not a problem,
Unlocked!?
Remembered a lot of swear words!? Well let's move on =)
7) With a 17 key, unscrew and remove the axial bolt of the rear engine mount
8) With the same key for 17 or a head, on BOTH sides we unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the subframe
In principle, the support could not have been installed, the subframe did not move far, but just in case, I made sure
9) Having unscrewed the subframe, we got the very 2-3 cm that did not allow us to pull the rail out of the bowels of the engine compartment
HOORAY . The rail is in our hands.
But we must continue. And we, with a rail in our hands, go to the operating table.
Ignore the creative mess. In general, all my instruments are sterile =))
10) We fix the rail in a yew, remove the anthers and unscrew the tie rods, the key is 30 (adjustable and gas wrench COX =))
That's what we have left
and on the other hand respectively
11) Remove the retaining ring and under it we already see one of the 4 seals
12) We loosen the locknut from the “steering rack adjustment mechanism”
13) With a special key for 22, we unscrew the “adjustment mechanism”. You need to be careful not to miss a small spring, otherwise it's a disaster =)
As an introduction, I will say that it was a weekend that I will never forget! It is usually customary to write thanks at the end of the entry, but this is not the case. I want to say a huge thank you to Andrey (penaplast) both for researching the steering rack itself on our cars, ways to replace the bushing, and for helping me and advising me. Honestly, if it weren’t for Andrey, then many would have rattled their rakes further or imported a lot of money into services. Since I respect other people's intellectual property, there will be no special details in my entry, all questions are at the link above. There is no impossible work, there is poor preparation. And so it happened with me, so the work stretched out for 2 days, due to the lack of some tools and a clear understanding of how to remove the tie rod.
Regarding the bushing - in THIS thread on the forum my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2208 a group purchase of SKF bushings was organized and I bought myself one. As an option, bushings are also ordered from China, links are on the last pages of this topic.
On the first day, the steering cardan was lubricated, as well as the shafts under the anthers on both sides. I would recommend this procedure to everyone. It’s not so difficult to do this, but it removes knocks at the joints of asphalt with a bang.
On the second day, it turned out to remove the rail stocking and finally replace the bushing itself. It was not the best idea to lubricate the shaft on the right side the day before. all this grease had to be cleaned before changing the bushing. Do not forget to throw off the terminal from the battery before removing the rail stocking.
This is what the shaft looks like on the right side. Lubrication is not observed.
Lubricate the shaft on the left side
Shaft lubrication on the right side
If someone has anther like this, don’t worry, it will normalize over time
Finally the tie rod is off.
Old bushing waiting to be replaced
New bushing in place
Hello everyone! Today I carried out a long-planned and haunting all owners of Mashek. I ordered the bushings back in July, received them in early September, and only got my hands on it today. I ordered an SKF bushing. The replacement operation has been described for a long time and in many places. Largely thanks to a comrade with the nickname Penoplast. Respect to him for the information! So what he did: He took off the stocking from the rail. How to shoot the information of the sea, I see no reason to describe for the hundredth and first time.
Next, I pulled the new bushing with a clamp to simulate its crimping. And put it on the shaft.
It is necessary to ensure that the gap between the shaft and the sleeve is 0.1 - 0.2 mm. If it is less, it can bite the shaft when the rail heats up. If more, the knock will remain.
I immediately got a gap of 0.1 mm. Given that the shaft has a diameter of 24.1 mm. Meryl caliper. And I checked the gap by inserting a feeler gauge under the sleeve dressed on the shaft.Although, very often people have to adjust the sleeve to the desired gap, grinding off a little metal from it at the cut site. Apparently, my shaft is not worn out. By the way, the diameter of the shaft is the same for all its length. Those. there is no output in the zero position of the steering wheel. I was also very pleased that under the anther there was perfect cleanliness and the complete absence of traces of water.
Then, I pressed the sleeve into the stocking, lubricated the shaft with lithol and assembled everything back.
The shaft play is gone, and there are no more knocks) In general, I'm glad) I bought the bushing for 95 rubles. It's surprising that not all Mazda drivers know the number of this bushing by heart)))))
Here is her number: PCM 242715 E.
Good luck to everyone and thank you for your attention!
Issue price: 95 ₽ Mileage: 123500 km
The steering rack of the Mazda 6, its weak point ... At work, I saw Mazdas with a full set of rails: where the steering wheel turned with different efforts, and pulled to one side. Fortunately, this sore did not affect my Mazda. The only nuance of the rail on my car was a knock on the right side, it manifested itself when passing the rails and uneven roads. As everyone knows, there is an SKF PCM242715E bushing, which everyone puts and forgets about the problem. I found this sleeve on Avito, about 500 rubles came out with delivery
There is nothing difficult to replace, I don’t see the point in painting because there are a lot of similar records on the drive and Google. A lot of important factor is the condition of the steering shaft itself, there are often cases where the shaft is corroded from moisture getting into the anthers, then there is no point in repair. My shaft was in excellent condition. It was not particularly difficult to knock out the old bushing
The new bushing came already harder
It feels like I’ll say one thing, how many rails I went through and rode these cars after repair, I didn’t notice much difference, because I heard other extraneous sounds, breaks in the cabin, etc., which didn’t give me a general silence. In your own car, when you already know where and how it knocks and creaks, this unpleasant knock on the right side is gone.
Issue price: 500 ₽ Mileage: 125,000 km
Mazda 6 II GH steering racks are manufactured by Matsuda Kabushigaisha (Mazda Motor Corporation).
Rail numbers: GS1D32110, GS1E32110, GS1E32110A, GS1E32110B
The second generation Mazda 6 steering rack was made using the latest technology of the time.
Its mechanics are based on a screw-ball nut and a lightweight rotor of a power motor based on neodymium supermagnets.
The advantage of such a scheme is low parasitic friction and a small moment of inertia of the rotor, which directly affects the controllability of the car.
However, the Mazda 6 II GH steering rack load cell is not reliable. It is made according to the scheme of two balancing inductive coils with a floating aluminum spring-loaded core, which, when moving, changes the inductance of the coils (due to the appearance of the eddy current effect (Foucault currents)). The main drawback of the Mazda 6 steering rack load cell lies in the mechanical drive of the core. The helical grooved plastic clutch wears or seizes resulting in unpredictable forces on the Mazda 6 steering wheel.
Most often, the steering wheel of the Mazda 6 II GH is greatly facilitated or even begins to rotate to the right, making repair steering rack Mazda-6 II GH urgent.
In such cases, you can of course purchase and install a Mazda 6 II GH steering rack load cell repair kit. Luckily it is sold separately.
Its number is GS1F-32-12Y. However, such a repair kit is not cheap at all. And it's a pity to spend money if there is a cheaper way. The Hydrolab company has learned how to qualitatively restore the parts of the load cell when repairing the Mazda 6 II GH steering rack, which is much cheaper and no less high quality.
Besides, repairing the load cell is only half the battle. Knocks and play also accumulate over time in crackers, bushings and in the Mazda 6 steering rack screw-ball nut itself.
Repair of a ball screw nut is a particularly responsible matter, since if it is assembled incorrectly, it can jam, and its repair is associated with the selection and installation of oversized balls.
When repairing the steering rack Mazda-6 II GH Hydrolab company replaces all bushings, crackers, bearings and other wear parts, adjusts and adapts the electrical parameters of the rail. given guarantee 13 months .
On the repair of steering racks for Mazda-6, Hydrolab LLC works both with individuals on order-orders, and with organizations under a service agreement and non-cash payment.
The quality and resource of the repaired rail is not inferior to the new original. Come and see for yourself!
This rail is nothing more than a part of the steering, or rather a special unit-mechanism. Which serves to evenly distribute the power load from the column to the wheels. Initially, the force that the driver sets is directed from the steering wheel to the column, and it, in turn, is connected to the rack.
Thus, we came to the fact that the Mazda steering mechanism works according to the generally accepted principle of all cars and, moreover, is in all Mazda modifications.
Now let's proceed to the consideration, that is, we will analyze in more detail the device of the Mazda steering rack. So, this device consists of: a support sleeve and a spool mechanism, but the gear shaft is considered the most dominant element. This is a standard device for this car model.
For example, my Mazda 6 steering rack has fallen into disrepair. Therefore, I consider it necessary to clarify some truths. Since the Mazda 3 steering rack is also not immune from such troubles.
There are so-called common causes of rail wear. First of all, it is natural the quality of our roads with you, caused by regular shaking in the pits and increased dust formation.
If the driver is not averse to poking around without noticing the holes and not slowing down in front of them, then he should be prepared for the fact that the rail will knock very soon. To prevent this from happening, and in an instant the knot does not begin to flow, you need to often look at the condition of the anthers and their integrity. If you miss a tiny hole, the leak will make itself felt immediately. And it will happen like this: dirt will begin to enter the hole and the seals will wear out quickly.
However, it is worth knowing that, by and large, the Mazda steering rack and its very work still depend on the driver. How many cases are there when a car stands in the cold with the wheels turned out? There are many and the consequences of such an attitude are unambiguous, the failure of the rail, especially the hydraulic one.
For example, on the Mazda 6 station wagon of 2012, and a restored rail, not a new one, you can buy for $ 500. And for the 6th Mazda model of 1992-97, with the 1.8 engine, you will have to pay $ 300 and this is also a restored version. Naturally, a new one costs an order of magnitude more expensive, plus the work of the masters.
A new rail for Mazda 3 costs decent money, so this doesn’t please us either, the same restored version will cost almost all triples - $ 450. So, alas, the river is worth saving.
If we talk about the most frequent breakdowns, then the Mazda steering mechanism suffers more often from wear: the slider, rod and seals. And the work to correct and replace parts is very expensive in this model.
You can also clarify a little the assessment of work in this direction, so the restoration of the Mazda 6 steering rack will cost in rubles, about 6000-6500 thousand. And then if it is removed, as well as the removal and installation cost 2-2.5 thousand.
With regards to others, the Mazda 3 steering rack repair price is no less. In other words, rail repairs for all Mazda models cost about the same, the difference is only the price of the rail itself.
Many drivers are often interested in what is included in the repair of rails and in what sequence it is carried out. It is done like this. First, the rail is disassembled and all its parts are washed in a special way. They find the faulty one, change it if it is not recoverable. The toothed rack shaft is then checked and cleaned at the same time. Directly on the Mazda steering rack they change: oil seals and rings, anthers and other details.
By the way, the question remains, why are rails installed more often restored? Yes, because new ones are more expensive, but they last as long as restored steering racks.
— On the go there is a knock in the suspension;
— oil flows from the hydraulic system;
- on bumps, there is a characteristic knock on the steering wheel;
— Power pump makes a lot of noise when the engine is running;
— Steering wheel turns hard;
— There was more play in the steering wheel.
Here is a list that is worth paying attention to. At the same time, you don’t have to go to extremes if you suddenly hear tapping in the suspension area, clearly felt in the steering wheel. Everything may not be so scary, but just the ball joints on the steering rod or its tip have become unusable.
The most unpleasant thing in the car can be the Mazda steering rack, gracefully tapping. Here it is, just what it is - terrible. Plus, it can also leak, leaving oily stains on the transmission fluid. At the same time, the stiffness of the steering wheel is also characteristic.
In this case, the rails are diagnosed on a stand in the workshop, under high pressure atmospheres, about 160.
And what to do in this case: send it in for repair or buy a new rail. The answer depends on the capabilities of the driver, if finances are not very good, it is better to repair it, and if there is, buy a new or refurbished one.
Another of the common problems in Mazda can be called rack play. The signs, which are simple, are the play of the steering wheel, which occurs due to a breakdown of the column of the steering cross or play in the rail itself and its device. Again, then you need to completely disassemble it, rinse and test it on the stand.
Standard repair of the Mazda steering rack includes the replacement of damaged parts: bushings, anthers. o-rings, seals, etc. However, it also happens that the rail has become completely unusable, then just throw it away and install another one.
The problem of rails is generally considered large-scale and does not apply only to these car models. It can be said to be universal and is related to almost all imported cars. This is due to the fact that the bottom of the cars is very low, sometimes the potholes on our roads are larger than the clearance parameter can allow.
Thus, not only the steering suffers, but also many other significant components of the machine.
Video (click to play).
Steering rack repair video
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