In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Mazda demio dw3w steering rack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
All about Mazda Xedos 6, Xedos 9 (Millenia) and 626GE, MX6 and Ford Probe with 2.5L (KL) engines
Artemmka "30 May 2013, 01:59" Message No. 196001
This report describes how to adjust the steering rack on the Xedo6 without removing the steering rack itself. The information will also be useful to owners of all Mazda cars of 1992-1997, mainly to owners of K series engines, i.e. V6
As we know, strip removal is expensive, difficult and time consuming. Mazda engineers did not provide for adjustment without removal. The instruction verb, adjustment with a torque wrench, holding the rail in a vice. I did just that when rebuilding the rail, but during installation and testing it seemed to me that they had not tightened enough. Shooting everything over again did not inspire me. In the Internet there is infa on disassembling the rail on the Mazda GF, which describes the adjustment of the rail in place, I thought for a long time how he did it, but found out that the car turned out to be right-handed In general, we decided to become pioneers. People are fooled in services, they shoot the rail, they supposedly do it, but in fact they often pull it up stupidly. So now you can pull up at least every evening)) We are watching the report! It was funny, they bought a new huge, shiny 41mm wrench for $ 40 and after 10 minutes they sawed it up and down) It is necessary to modify the 41mm spanner
Do not scold or beat me too much, there are a LOT of pictures, so I will give links to pictures.
It appears like this. A year ago, a torn left boot was noticed on the rail, but for some reason it so happened that it was not up to him =)
And just recently, once again, when inspecting the car, my eyes fell on this very sad boot and all this snot around it.
Video (click to play).
And since “Our hands are not for boredom” the rail was sentenced to be repaired. Were ordered: RemKit steering rack (consisting of 4 oil seals), steering tips, tie rods and one boot. All this arrived safely and rode with me in the car for almost two weeks. And so, on Saturday, the moment has come. I did this on a lift, but a pit will work too =) 1) So. We remove the hose from the power steering reservoir (liquid will flow from there, so substitute some kind of bowl)
2) Unscrew with a 17 key, a fitting with a tube.
3) Unscrew the nut with a key of 10. Otherwise, the tube that we unscrewed cannot be moved away.
4) With a small ratchet for 12, we twist the steering shaft cardan.
5) We take out the steering tips from the steering knuckle.
Then it starts more interesting =)
6) You need to try hard and unscrew the steering rack bolts with a 14 head. Unscrewing two of them is not a problem, but on the other hand there is a bolt and a nut that made me remember the Japanese and their mother
Unscrewed !?
Did you remember a lot of swear words !? Well let's go further =)
7) With a 17 key, unscrew and remove the axle bolt of the rear engine mount
8) With the same key 17 or a head, on BOTH sides, unscrew the bolts and nuts of the subframe ,
In principle, the support could not have been put, the stretcher did not go far, but I made sure to be on the safe side just in case
9) Having unscrewed the stretcher, we got the same 2-3 cm that did not allow us to pull out the rail from the bowels of the engine compartment
HOORAY . The rail is in our hands. More precisely - thrown to the floor. Because after all these torments I don't really want to look at her.
But we must continue. And we, with the rail in our hands, go to the operating table.
Never mind the creative mess. in general, my entire instrument is sterile =))
10) We fix the rail in the yew, remove the anthers and unscrew the steering rods, a key for 30 (adjustable and gas key RULES =))
This is what we have left
and on the other hand, respectively
11) Remove the retaining ring and under it we already see one of the 4 oil seals
12) Loosen the lock nut from the "steering rack adjustment mechanism"
13) Using a special key for 22, we unscrew the “adjustment mechanism”. You need to be careful not to run through a small spring, otherwise it's a disaster =)
Like any other car, Mazda has a steering rack. Before we talk further, it’s worth mentioning initially what it is.
This rail is nothing more than a part of the steering, or rather a special unit-mechanism. Which serves to evenly distribute the power load from the column to the wheels. Initially, the effort that the driver sets is directed from the steering wheel to the column, which, in turn, is connected to the rack.
Thus, we came to the conclusion that the Mazda steering mechanism works according to the generally accepted principle of all cars and, moreover, is in all Mazda modifications.
Now let's get down to it, that is, let's take a closer look at the Mazda steering rack device. So, this device consists of: a support sleeve and a spool mechanism, but the gear shaft is considered the most dominant element. This is a standard device for this car model.
For example, my Mazda 6 steering rack has become unusable. Therefore, I consider it necessary to clarify some truths. Since the Mazda 3 steering rack is also not immune from such troubles.
There are so-called common reasons for rack wear. First of all, this is the natural quality of our roads, caused by regular shaking in the pits and increased dust formation.
If the driver is not averse to driving around, not noticing the holes and not slowing down in front of them, then he should be prepared for the rake to knock very soon. To prevent this from happening, and in an instant the node does not begin to leak, you need to often look at the state of the anthers and their integrity. If you miss a tiny hole, the leak will make itself felt immediately. And it will happen like this: dirt will start to enter the hole and the seals will quickly wear out.
However, it is worth knowing that, by and large, the Mazda steering rack and its very work, still depend on the driver. How many times does a car stand in the cold with its wheels turned out? There are many and the consequences of this attitude are unambiguous, failure of the rail, especially the hydraulic one.
And how many carriers forget about changing the hydraulic fluid? But the power steering system is also not eternal and this is also a reason for the wear of the rails. In addition, the price of the Mazda 6 steering rack bites. It is, of course, different and depends on whether it is new or restored and where it is purchased, but for presentation, you can name several prices.
For example, on a Mazda 6 station wagon in 2012, a restored rail, not new, can be bought for $ 500. And for 6 Mazda model 1992-97, with the 1.8 engine, you will have to pay off $ 300 and this is also a restored version. Naturally, the new one is an order of magnitude more expensive, plus the work of the craftsmen.
The new rake on the Mazda 3 costs a lot of money, so it doesn't make us happy either, the same remanufactured version will cost $ 450 for almost all three. So, alas, the river is worth keeping.
If we talk about the most frequent breakdowns, then the Mazda steering mechanism suffers more often from wear: the slide, the rod and the seals. And the work on fixing and replacing parts is very expensive in this model.
It is possible to clarify a little and the assessment of work in this direction, so the restoration of the Mazda 6 steering rack will cost in rubles, about 6,000-6500 thousand. And then if it is removed, as well as removal and installation cost 2-2.5 thousand.
As for the others, the Mazda 3 steering rack, the repair price is no less. In other words, repairing the rail for all Mazda models costs about the same, the only difference is the price of the rail itself.
Many drivers are often interested in what is included in the repair of rails and in what sequence it is carried out. This is how it is done.First, the rail is disassembled and all its parts are washed in a special way. Find a faulty one, change it if it is not recoverable. After that, the rack gear shaft is checked and at the same time cleaned. Directly on the steering rack, Mazda is changed: oil seals and rings, anthers and other parts.
By the way, the question remains, why are the slats installed more often than restored ones? Yes, because the new ones are more expensive, and they serve as much as the restored steering racks.
How to determine if the rail is faulty? There are characteristic signs:
- on the move, a knock is heard in the suspension;
- oil flows from the hydraulic system;
- on bumps, there is a characteristic knock on the steering wheel;
- the power steering pump makes a lot of noise when the engine is running;
- the steering wheel turns a little tight;
- there is more play in the steering wheel.
Here is a list worth paying attention to. In this case, you do not need to go to extremes if you suddenly hear tapping in the suspension area, clearly felt in the steering wheel. Everything may not be so scary, but only the ball on the steering rod or its tip have become unusable.
The most unpleasant thing about the car can be the Mazda steering rack, which gracefully knocks. Here it is, that is exactly what it is - terrible. Plus, it can also leak, leaving transmission fluid oily stains. At the same time, the steering wheel is also slow.
In this case, the slats are diagnosed on the stand in the workshop, under high atmospheric pressure, about 160.
And what to do in this case: give it for repair or buy a new rail. The answer depends on the driver's capabilities, if the finances are not very good, it is better to repair it, and if there is, buy a new or rebuilt one.
Another common problem in Mazda is rail backlash. The signs, which are simple, are the steering wheel backlash, which occurs due to a breakdown of the steering column column or backlash in the rail itself and its structure. Again, then you need to completely disassemble it, rinse it and check it at the stand.
A standard Mazda steering rack repair includes replacing damaged parts: bushings, anthers. o-rings, oil seals and others. However, it also happens that the rail has become completely unusable, then just throw it away and install another one.
The problem of rails, it is generally considered large-scale and does not apply only to these car models. It can be said to be universal and is related to almost all imported cars. This is due to the fact that the bottom of the cars is very low, sometimes there are more bumps on the roads than the clearance parameter can allow.
Thus, it is not only the steering that suffers, but also many other significant components of the machine.
