In detail: do-it-yourself Mitsubishi Galant 7 steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of the steering mechanism
Assembling the steering mechanism with rods
1 - Assembly of the intermediate shaft
2 - Injection tube
3 - cotter pin
4 — Assembly of the steering mechanism
Steering gear components
1 - Clamp
2 - Protective cover
3 - Clamp
4 - Tie rod end
5 - Locknut
6 — Consolidation of a bracket No. 2 of the case of the steering mechanism
7 — Bracket No. 2 of the case of the steering mechanism
8 — the Case of the steering mechanism
9 - Locking washer
10 - Tie rod
11 - Rail
12 - O-ring
13 - Teflon ring
14 - Oil seal
15 - Stopper
16 - Bushing
17 - Wire
Steering components
1 - Return tube
2 - O-ring
3 - duster
4 — the Case of the control valve
5 - Oil seal
6 - Bearing
7 — Assembly of the control valve
8 - Teflon rings
9 — Locknut of a cover of a spring of a directing rack
10 - Gasket
11 — Cover of a spring of a directing rack
12 - Guide rail springs
13 - Assembly of the guide rail
14 - Self-locking nut
15 — Covers of the case of the steering mechanism
16 — the Case of the steering mechanism
Before removing the steering mechanism, remove the steering wheel, because. otherwise, the coil spring may be damaged.
- Set the wheels to the straight ahead position.
- Remove the steering wheel (see Section Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of a steering column).
- Disconnect the steering rod ends from the steering knuckles (see Section doors).
- Disconnect the intermediate shaft assembly (see Section Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of a steering column).
- Turn out a bolt and remove two collars.
- Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the steering mechanism.
- Turn out two bolts of fastening of assembly of the steering mechanism and remove it.
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Video (click to play). |
Do not damage return tubes.
- Put installation marks on steering drafts and on their tips then give counternuts and remove tips.
- Loosen the clamps and clips of the protective covers and remove the covers and their fasteners.
Measure the left and right covers, then to install them in their original places.
Measure the left and right rods, then to install them in their original places.
The steering rack of the Mitsubishi Galant is one of the most unpretentious components of the car, however, if it breaks down, it can cause a lot of inconvenience. Self-repair of this part is possible, but if your last name is not Samodelkin, it is better to entrust the work to specialists who have the appropriate equipment for this.
Purely mechanical steering racks are rare today, mostly hydraulic or electric booster is installed on them. In addition to them, structurally, the assembly consists of steering rods and tips, due to which the wheels turn; gears and a toothed bar that transmits your efforts on the steering wheel through the rods to the wheels; crankcase, he is the body in which the steering rack is located; a spring system for a tighter fit of the rack to the gear and, finally, a limiter - the very part that you regularly knock on when turning the steering wheel all the way.
Breaking a Mitsubishi Galant steering rack is not so easy, but a car enthusiast can do it. To do this, you must not slow down when driving over bumps and crossing tram lines. 
rails, accelerate sharply with the steering wheel turned all the way and often drive over curbs. Then the most common symptom - knocking when driving on uneven surfaces and when cornering - will not keep you waiting. The following symptoms may also appear:
- A “heavy” steering wheel, and it can be tight only when the steering wheel is rotated in one direction.
- "Recoil" into the steering wheel, which will begin to live its cowardly life.
- Self-rotating steering wheel.
- Oil stains under the front of the car after parking.
- Appeared noise during the operation of the power steering.
- The steering angle no longer corresponds to the angle of rotation of the wheels, and at speed the car can yaw from side to side.
- The steering wheel does not return at all or does not return completely after it is released when turning.
Despite the fact that steering rack designs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, the main reasons why they stop working as they should can be identified:
- Failure of the rack or gear itself.
- Damage to the body, which leads to blocking the movement of the rack and immobilization of the front wheels of the vehicle.
- Ingress of foreign particles into the body: dust, dirt, sand. When combined with the lubricant, they form a viscous substance that prevents normal operation. In addition, such an abrasive composition accelerates the wear of the seals, followed by the appearance of a leak.
- Strong wear of the nodes.
- Corrosion or mechanical damage to parts, leading to their curvature, cracks and similar defects.
Since steering in terms of importance in a car is comparable only to the brake system, and the life and health of the driver, passengers and others depend on its serviceability. 
road users, it is best to entrust the diagnosis of malfunctions to the service station master. Basically, “symptoms” can be diagnosed either by ear (extraneous sounds - creaking, knocking), or tactilely (vibration of the steering wheel, its non-standard rotation modes, disappearance of effort on the steering wheel in different turning modes), or “by eye” (liquid drips on asphalt under the knot).
During the diagnostics, the condition of the longitudinal and transverse rods is checked (in case of corrosion or mechanical damage, the rail is replaced), and the density of the nut tightening and the condition of the special tightening bolt are also determined.
Not all steering rack failures are solved by replacing parts: sometimes it only takes a short adjustment and you can drive safely again. In particular, with a “tight” steering wheel, it may be necessary to adjust the gearing in the transmission pair with topping up or changing the oil in the crankcase. Knocking in the knot can be caused by the resulting backlash, which is corrected by tightening the adjusting screw located in the steering mechanism by the master. By the way, excessive tightening can lead to the appearance of "heaviness" when the steering wheel is rotated.
Galant steering rack repair begins with a complete disassembly of the assembly to identify possible defects. Parts are carefully cleaned and polished, bearings and seals are replaced with new ones. Also, at the request of the customer, a complete replacement of anthers, steering tips and rods is carried out.
Next, the parts are checked for requirements from the manufacturer with a replacement if they do not meet these requirements (it is needless to mention that we work only with original components). Thereafter 
the node is assembled and tested on a special stand in order to determine compliance with the performance parameters. If the steering tips or tie rods have been replaced, the wheel alignment is also checked, also on a special stand.
Both experts and ordinary drivers agree that extreme driving on uneven surfaces and sharp turns does not prolong the life of the steering rack at all - however, you yourself know this. But many people forget that in the cold season it is necessary to “warm up” the liquid in the crankcase and hydraulic booster. To do this, before starting the movement, smoothly turn the steering wheel to the right and left at small angles.
In general, it is better to entrust the repair of the Galant rail to specialists, despite the seeming simplicity, because even a small error during repairs can give rise to another problem - especially since, compared to the cost of components, the cost of professional work is low.So, if you hear a knock from under the hood and start to tame the steering wheel - do not pull, go to the service station.
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I don't understand anything. if there is play in the steering rod, then where does the entire rack come from?
and what are they going to do with a rail for 20 tr if it does not flow?
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20r for the whole procedure is almost a normal price.
In mms when it was 18r. right now love more expensive.
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The author, as I understand it, did not understand the difference between traction and rail, so he wrote clumsily, the problem is in the rail.
I xs like on dorestas, but you can’t change the thrust for a flight to Europe without a special key.
Tupac86 (July 06, 2016 – 03:13) wrote:
The author, as I understand it, did not understand the difference between traction and rail, so he wrote clumsily, the problem is in the rail.
I xs like on dorestas, but you can’t change the thrust for a flight to Europe without a special key.
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Rasel (July 06, 2016 – 07:25) wrote:
Tupac86 (July 06, 2016 – 09:13) wrote:
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Well, for taking off and putting somewhere else rubas 5.
In general, somewhere I came across an announcement and there the exchange of rails was 7700 and it was restyled, I even blurted out the availability.
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in short, let's recap. aftor won't go anywhere
knocking can either tie rod. this is 500 rubles for the cost of traction and 500-1000 for its replacement
knocking can be a rack-and-pinion connection inside the rack. adjustment costs about 1000 rubles, does not require removal of the rail
remove the rail and take it somewhere to sort it out in this case it makes no sense
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M&H 2000 (July 07, 2016 – 02:21 PM) wrote:
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It's like a non-removable mortar bearing from him))) and both, front.
On the subject: what is the funniest topic in terms of its meaning, as it were, probably still about the steering rack, not about traction, I think no service would break so hard for replacing the traction)))
And yes - Andy, for 1000 rubles on a luminous stretcher, no one will tighten the rail for you, you need to lower the stretcher, turn off the rail and take it to the side.
Some operations were carried out by rather extreme methods, so everything is at your own peril and risk (we succeeded without negative consequences).
Right-left relative to the movement of the car. Those. driver's side is left.
The names of units and components are their own, they may not converge with books and other sources 
You will need:
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Steering rack repair kit
Litol (lubricate the balls of the steering rods under the anthers and the cardan shaft of the steering wheel)
Keys
Gas-burner
1. Remove the wheels, unscrew the steering tips (you can not knock them out of the steering knuckle because the tie rods spin with the anther clamps removed).
2. Remove the air duct to the filter (2 bolts for 10), the left pipe to the radiator, the propeller (4 nuts for 10), the plastic protection of the radiator (between the radiator and the engine 2 bolts for 10).
3. Remove the rubber hose on top of the rail, unscrew the metal tube from the cross beam (bolt 12).
4. We unscrew the locking bolt 12 from the steering wheel cardan to the rail (there are two cardans, it is easier to remove the lower one, directly from the rail) and spill the cardan with VDshkoy. We raise the car on a lift.
5. We unscrew 4 bolts (it seems to be 17, on the left with nuts, on the right without) - fastening the rail.
6. Unscrew the left bracket of the front axle. Only 5 bolts for 17 or 19. We leave the bracket hanging on the axle shaft - it will not hurt. See photo 01.
7. We unscrew the incoming and outgoing tubes from the power steering from the rail. It was easier for us to do this from the bottom left wheel. See photo 01.
Last edited by Kiread on Wed May 22, 2013 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Today found that the steering rack tarnished its reputation. Fluid started leaking from the left side.
on the management of new sensations did not appear as well as new sounds, the fluid level is still within the norm
suggested two options: either replace it with a used one from disassembly, or sort out what is.
I like the second option better, but I don’t quite understand its reality
the hodovik's hands grow very correctly)))
but the repair kit is already more complicated)
Now he is sweating again, not flowing, but sweating.
True, she began to sweat in me not where in your case, but where it joins with the steering shaft.
Sanya, when I bought the car, I saw that the high-pressure hose was sweating and that joint that you have, it is still fogged up (1.5 years since I use the car) it left the liquid bottle with half a centimeter (and it’s not known how long it was before me “ sweaty”))))).
I also have a rail that is fogged up in places wet. the liquid left according to mood, then it will go away in a week, what had to be topped up, then it does not move for several months.
I myself am thinking a little bit about the issue of used or restoration.
The liquid level in the pressure reservoir is above average, i.e. not much has flowed, for the day today a small puddle in diameter is about 5-6cm.
I was on Success, I was holding the original repair kit in my hands, they did not give me the number to write off. 85$
in another store they offered Manolovsky sealant for rails, 300 ml, (65 UAH) is filled in completely, they say it restores the properties of rubber.
I held the original repair kit in my hands, they didn’t let me write off the number
The Japanese concern no longer produces Galant models. But these reliable sedans enjoy well-deserved popularity even today. Novosibirsk carries out repairs of these models in many car services. But if problems appeared in the steering rack, it will not be possible to restore this assembly in every workshop. Meanwhile, replacing a faulty mechanism is not always advisable. Qualified NSK Detail mechanics will be able to quickly and inexpensively carry out repairs if the steering rack wear on the Mitsubishi Galant is not cardinal.
Many problems with the steering racks on the Mitsubishi Galant can be eliminated. If you contacted a car service when the first signs of failure in the operation of the unit appeared, you can restore its operation, ensure driving safety, and ease of operation. For example, if the distribution gearbox fails, by replacing this component in a timely manner, you can avoid damage to other elements, the need for complex repairs, and the installation of a new rail.
The type of restoration work depends on the type and degree of failure. May be required:
- high-quality cleaning of elements, removal of rust;
- restoration of damaged components;
- installation of new parts;
- replacement of the entire assembly.
Regardless of the type of damage, repair of rails on Mitsubishi Galant in our workshops is carried out promptly at a high level. The restoration of the assembly is carried out by experienced mechanics with special qualifications. The workshops are well equipped, there are always oil seals and crackers, the main shaft and support bushings, and other types of running spare parts.
The presence of significant damage in the node requires the installation of a new mechanism. The moderate cost of the original steering racks on the Mitsubishi Galant allows replacement without exorbitant costs. These components are supplied by leading companies in Europe, which guarantees high quality and reliability.
Some experienced car owners do their own replacement of steering racks for Mitsubishi Galant. You can order the original mechanism in our company. The low price, the delivery system ensures the availability of rails for each consumer. You can find out exactly how much this node costs now by calling
Message dymart » Fri Jan 17, 2014 5:31 pm
Message vpriz » Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:43 am
Message dymart » Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:59 pm
Message shock » Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:18 am
Message dymart » Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:54 am
Message romaxa » Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:10 pm
Message shock » Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:52 pm
Message !serzh » Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:12 am
Message csandr » Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:15 am
Message dymart » Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:48 am
Message shock » Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:53 am
Message dymart » Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:48 am
In repairs, they offer a guarantee of six months to a year, on which it depends - it is not clear.
And regarding the replacement with a used one, we agreed that if I put them in, then if something goes wrong, they will answer.
They do not repair the rails themselves, they take them somewhere, so they offered an alternative - to replace them. They would have received their money for withdrawing/putting. But the question is not even that.
I remembered how I put the signaling on the previous gala. Then, for two years, he cussed these installers (if anything, an auto-defense somewhere in the Tulskaya region). Installed anyhow, the signaling all the time did not work as it should. I came to the manufacturer twice, took pictures myself, wore them, they altered them, changed the key fobs .. As a result, they didn’t fix anything, they said that something was somehow wrong, to go to the installers to shoot and look at everything.
I want to eliminate the maximum number of problems so as not to waste time on them. After all, the gala did not notice illnesses with a rail for someone to complain, so there is a good chance that the new used one will be good. I read that the mechanism is very fragile, and I only hope that it was not kicked from corner to corner.
Of course, someone might himself have spent a day on this matter. In existential, as I understand it, if you buy all the consumables on the rail, they will cost about 3 thousand, that is, 7 to give for work on average in the market. But unfortunately I can't do it myself.
Message Quad light » Fri Feb 21, 2014 11:56 am
In repairs, they offer a guarantee of six months to a year, on which it depends - it is not clear.
And regarding the replacement with a used one, we agreed that if I put them in, then if something goes wrong, they will answer.
They do not repair the rails themselves, they take them somewhere, so they offered an alternative - to replace them. They would have received their money for withdrawing/putting. But the question is not even that.
I remembered how I put the signaling on the previous gala. Then, for two years, he cussed these installers (if anything, an auto-defense somewhere in the Tulskaya region). Installed anyhow, the signaling all the time did not work as it should. I came to the manufacturer twice, took pictures myself, wore them, they altered them, changed the key fobs .. As a result, they didn’t fix anything, they said that something was somehow wrong, to go to the installers to shoot and look at everything.
I want to eliminate the maximum number of problems so as not to waste time on them. After all, the gala did not notice illnesses with a rail for someone to complain, so there is a good chance that the new used one will be good. I read that the mechanism is very fragile, and I only hope that it was not kicked from corner to corner.
Of course, someone might himself have spent a day on this matter. In existential, as I understand it, if you buy all the consumables on the rail, they will cost about 3 thousand, that is, 7 to give for work on average in the market. But unfortunately I can't do it myself.
In general, I already wrote this on the forum .. but I repeat. I changed the Reiki + pump + steering card. The rake flowed. naso buzzed. backlash in the cardan. Turnkey issue price work + parts - 40100r. in the morning at 9 gave at 7 pm at home drinking tea satisfied.
I did it here -> - everyone who allegedly repairs and undertakes these works .. The rails themselves are removed and taken to them
There are already units they go through all the factory restoration. We have our own shop and equipment. what is important. Not just repair kits, but a machine tool.
Those. in fact, they make a new part, only the old repaired and painted body remains. The guarantee is also given by the passport for the unit.
If your problem is still relevant. then only to them (I'm not for the sake of advertising, but just a personal experience)
Message Quad light » Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:11 pm
Well, I really do not advise Reiki to buy Boo .. yes, the unit is at least not painful in Galant. But. judge for yourself to give 2500 to remove and put + 8700 for restoration (I have so much on the check) + flushing the circuit and replacing the slurry + collapse collapse (where without it with such work). well, not such a direct problem and ride further hundreds of thousands, changing gur slurry every 25,000 runs.
Message dymart » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:38 pm
quadlight wrote: . I will add.
Well, I really do not advise Reiki to buy Boo .. yes, the unit is at least not painful in Galant. But.judge for yourself to give 2500 to remove and put + 8700 for restoration (I have so much on the check) + flushing the circuit and replacing the slurry + collapse collapse (where without it with such work). well, not such a direct problem and ride further hundreds of thousands, changing gur slurry every 25,000 runs.
My thoughts were that it would be less risky to put a rail that worked for itself and didn’t know troubles at some kind of gale from parsing. It was removed and installed. And it is not clear who to give it for repair, and even more so to give the car for repair, which will carry this rail somewhere else and do it, is more risky.
I've changed the rail, it seems to work, the fluid level is normal. True, there are questions about the wheel alignment and the steering wheel, in which something rings on the bumps. By the way, who knows, the steering wheel is removed, the steering column is dismantled during these operations: replacement of r / r and descent / collapse?
Message dymart » Mon Apr 07, 2014 5:45 pm
Message Quad light » Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:06 pm
could be the steering gear.
When I was restoring the rail, they strongly suggested that I fix it, which I did.
If there was no rail before removing the installation, then of course to them.
They filmed everything there. something might not turn. But the steering cardan and the steering wheel do not move during such work.
If you climb at the gas pedal, you can see there is a hole in the floor where the steering gear goes and articulates there.
That's where they are corroded when removing the rail.
Message Alexey86 » Fri Feb 27, 2015 8:22 am
Message Quad light » Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:25 am
I repaired the rail on the gallant.
In short, these are the options.
1 - Replace with a new one. And I don’t need to start explaining something like “oh yes, you can rest, oh yes 75,000r oh oh oh”. there is one option - a new rail assembly.
The second option is “the miser pays twice.”. This is, of course, a rebuild. There are also options here. There is a repair. there is a rebuild, there is a recovery. What are the differences. Repair is - “here you have a knocking there - they fixed it”. anyhow - it doesn’t knock - we rejoice at the ride (not for long - I assure you. Something else will break, and in fact due to the fact that it was repairing something.
Rebuild is expensive. Everything is disassembled - all items with signs of wear are thrown out. more than 25%. hull sandblasting, etc. tricks. replacement of all gaskets. shaft groove. use again gaskets for new shaft sizes. assembly and testing - at the stand.
Restoration - there is something in between - ala, here we have machined the shaft for you and the gaskets are still alive - we left our own. Garbage is shorter and not a method.
As a result, what will you get by doing a rebuild repair restoration - most likely in the pants of a gimoroy.
the rail was leaking. well .. gave. “Hydraulics” –> in Moscow. 7 o'clock.. ready.
They do the rebuild. it came out in December 2013 - 7900 - only work on the Reiki rebuild. What we have now is a strong feeling that the steering is somehow wrong. roofing felts became hard feedback, roofing felts weaned from laxity that was at home for years of driving. roofing felts the spool in the rail was killed and it was not repaired or not set correctly. and mows down the steering wheel somehow.
In short, I don’t understand these bullshit. I regretted it more than once .. and then .. in 2013 for some reason (don’t ask why I don’t know. The rake cost 115,000 rubles in existential)
In the summer it was 35,000 (I literally licked my lips with tears in my eyes .. buy not buy. didn’t buy - left the sale)
And now - 75,000. expensive. But new. !
And now, after a while .. for me. after all these half-measures - only a new one. no options. sorry for the harsh truth. Better do what you can and then put a new one as you accumulate. either sell and buy a car where the rails cost 20-30,000.
Message greygoos » Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:30 pm
Message Quad light » Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:43 pm
Not. I think in my case it's just my own cockroaches. it turned out that the new is combined with the old. In particular, the new rail and the old salentblocks in it. (there are 4 of them). Again, wide tyres. low profile. New levers and amortization and old salent blocks in the subframe. Here the porridge in behavior is obtained because of this. But again, this is at a micro level, which I feel and it causes some discomfort.
Well, the rail .. th .. does not flow .. quietly. Well, what else to take with her. the rebuilt rail will stretch its 40-60,000 mileage. If you drive calmly ala city - work - home. Steering with a quiet ride is pretty much nothing like that .. On the track, yes .. the feeling that you are on the 20th radius .. although everything is on the 35th ... well, bites the steering wheel if you turn 80 km / h 120 degrees to the left or right and sharply drive and with all the dope also in the opposite direction. while gas to the floor. well, excuse me. I doubt very much that there is someone on the forum who tried to do it on Galante. And then people who previously traveled also complained about it. the disease seems to be constructive.
I just mean that well, restoring a part is always a compromise. well, they can't just remove the knock. if there is production, then it is somehow compensated. Leaks if - this is garbage. pads basically. but a crooked shaft or working out - there will already be questions even after the rebuild.
Message !serzh » Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:47 pm
subscribe!
Bro, your approach is somewhat boring, meticulous, but that's the beauty of it. people like you get to the bottom of things. respect)))
By the way, I agree with your opinion that replacing the rails without replacing the silents, etc. is a half measure. but a wheelbarrow is always a compromise. but Galu personally I forgive it. in half of the car what we complain about is a gift and people are happy with what we have. only we got it cheaper than them))
Message Alexey86 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 4:41 pm
Message Quad light » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:14 am
It is very important to put the center of the shaft there - the steering wheel and the spool. That's where the trouble is. On restored ones, the spool and shaft that is in the rail (and this is essentially a valve in hydraulic rails) may not be installed correctly when assembling the rail or, due to the development and replacement of the part, have slightly different indicators, and then the absolute center of the rail (even if you set it and put on the steering shaft during assembly) - it will have a valve, as it were, ajar and with gas to the floor it can mow the shaft with pressure, i.e. wheels - and you are struggling with this to turn the steering wheel so that you drive straight. Well, there it is clear that the atomic level is ala 1-2 degrees on the steering wheel .. and in essence it is possible to eliminate this error by setting the steering wheel to the center at the collapse. but this is no longer good.
Now I have something similar in my name. and I xs roofing felts is rubber, roofing felts is a rut on the road, roofing felts I have a heterogeneous collapse + 15 minutes to the left and 4 minutes to the right. tolly subframe walks due to salentblocks not as hard as those from the factory. Trouble right. and I noticed the ugliness by replacing everything. to a new one. leverage. stub racks, stub bushings, and tips, etc. .. everything is shorter except for salent blocks in the subframe and rail.
Moreover, if earlier backlashes and torn rubber bands gave some comfort - ala the steering wheel in the center of the wheel, they live their own lives there, now everything is tough to the point of madness. here you can roughly understand what it is - having pumped up 35 profile 245 rubber to 3.0 pressure and go +1. here is something like that. the feel of the rut is the wildest. It’s almost impossible to drive on a three-ruble note just keeping your hands on the steering wheels. it is always necessary to steer both to the left and to the right by 1-2 degrees. those. wild sensitivity.
at a traffic light, gas and the steering wheel pulls out to match the road - a rut
Well, this is all of course it was before (as the owner of my former gallant says). over time, it seems to have gone away .. and then I got it at the age of 5 and then everything was new - and a kind of hell came for me.
by his standards, garbage .. he has Megan RS - that's the kid where the pipets is. 320 horses for 1.4 tons of weight. and everything is 2 times harder + new.
In general, damn it, I don’t know what I have .. but in general, returning to the rails - the hydraulic rail is evil. It's better not to make them. Here are some external gaskets to change at the places where the hoses are attached or anthers or something like that, it’s always a trifle. This is what we do in Moscow in hydraulics, they do it there and they can install new shafts and so on. those. Seriously do and with a guarantee. Actually, even the documents give out soaps, here you have such and such an aggregate and they break their number there, etc. – i.e. Well, roughly speaking, they make their rails compatible with your car. But still the factory part is still Japan. and the rake we have, by the way, KOYO is another matter.
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EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
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Who did the steering rack themselves? We need the numbers of the seals (the inner seal and the side seal is the one that sits in the sleeve) and the number of the gum on the sleeve. EA3A 1999 2.4 GDI Europe
Post has been edited AndreyJIUC – 22.4.2013, 23:09
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The cost of the bulkhead is 7-9 thousand.
Is it flowing hard??
My rail was leaking, I drove for 3 years, it stopped by itself ..
8(905)563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was.. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was..
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Photos nnnnada?
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The album is periodically updated with new photos.
Break the law of meanness - do good!
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8(905)563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was.. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was..
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We sleep in the same bed on opposite sides of the wall.
People can drink together, live side by side, make love, but only joint idiocy can indicate real spiritual intimacy)))
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EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
1999
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Group: ORG.TEAM
Posts: 3,616
Thank you said: 725 time(s)
Other model
8(905)563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was.. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was..
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Group: Users
Posts: 135
Thank you: 7 times
EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
1999
46043A BUSHING ASSY, STEERING GEAR here is the sleeve that I wrote to you about in the PM, the sleeve itself, the sealing gum on it and the stuffing box inside, but I only need the stuffing box and the rubber band. according to this scheme, I looked out all my eyes, but on the left side I did not even find a hint of an oil seal, but it is.
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Post has been edited AndreyJIUC – 24.4.2013, 12:41
