In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack of a Mitsubishi Galant 7 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering mechanism
Assembling the steering gear with rods
1 - Assembling the intermediate shaft
2 - Discharge tube
3 - Cotter pin
4 - Assembling the steering mechanism
Steering components
1 - the Clamp
2 - Protective cover
3 - Clamp
4 - the End of a steering rod
5 - Lock nut
6 - Sealing of a bracket No. 2 of the steering mechanism housing
7 - Bracket No. 2 of the steering mechanism housing
8 - the housing of the steering mechanism
9 - the Fixing washer
10 - Steering rod
11 - Rake
12 - the O-ring
13 - Teflon ring
14 - the Epiploon
15 - Stopper
16 - the Bushing
17 - Wire
Steering components
1 - Return tube
2 - the O-ring
3 - Anther
4 - the Control valve body
5 - the Epiploon
6 - the Bearing
7 - Assembling the control valve
8 - Teflon rings
9 - Lock nut of a cover of a spring of a guide rail
10 - the Gasket
11 - the cover of the spring of the guide rail
12 - the springs of the guide rail
13 - Assembling the guide rail
14 - Self-locking nut
15 - Steering gear housing covers
16 - the housing of the steering mechanism
Remove the steering wheel before removing the steering gear. otherwise, the coil spring may be damaged.
- Set the wheels to the straight-ahead position.
- Remove the steering wheel (see Section Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering column).
- Disconnect the ends of the steering rods from the steering knuckles (see Section Doors).
- Disconnect the intermediate shaft assembly (see Section Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering column).
- Unscrew the bolt and remove the two clamps.
- Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the steering gear.
- Remove the two mounting bolts of the steering assembly and remove it.
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Video (click to play). |
Do not damage the return pipes.
- Apply alignment marks on the tie rods and on their tips, then give back the locknuts and remove the tips.
- Loosen the clamps and clamps of the protective covers and remove the covers and their fasteners.
Measure the left and right covers to replace them later.
Measure the left and right rods to replace them later.
The steering rack of the Mitsubishi Galant is one of the most unpretentious components of a car, but in the event of a breakdown it can cause a lot of inconvenience. Self-repair of this part is possible, but if your last name is not Samodelkin, it is better to entrust the work to specialists who have the appropriate equipment for this.
Purely mechanical steering racks are rarely found today, mostly they are equipped with a hydraulic or electric booster. In addition to them, the structural unit consists of steering rods and tips, due to which the wheels are turned; gears and a toothed bar, which transfers your steering efforts by means of rods to the wheels; crankcase, it is the body in which the steering rack is located; a system of springs for a tighter fit of the rack to the gear and, finally, the stopper is the very part that you regularly bump against, twisting the steering wheel all the way.
Breaking the steering rack of a Mitsubishi Galant is not so easy, but a car enthusiast is quite capable of it. To do this, do not slow down when driving over bumps and crossing trams. 
rails, accelerate sharply with the steering wheel turned all the way and often drive into curbs. Then the most common symptom - knocking when driving on uneven surfaces and when cornering - will not keep you waiting. The following symptoms may also appear:
- "Heavy" steering wheel, and it can be tight only when you turn the steering wheel in one direction.
- "Recoil" into the steering wheel, which will begin to live its own cowardly life.
- Steering wheel rotating independently in motion.
- Oil stains under the front of the vehicle after parking.
- The appearance of noise during the operation of the power steering.
- The steering angle has ceased to correspond to the steering angle, and at speed the car can yaw from side to side.
- The steering wheel does not return at all or does not return completely after it is released when turning.
Despite the fact that steering rack designs differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, the main reasons why they stop working as expected can be distinguished:
- Failure of the rack or gear itself.
- Damage to the body, which leads to blocking of the rail and immobilization of the front wheels of the vehicle.
- Ingress of foreign particles into the housing: dust, dirt, sand. When combined with the lubricant, they form a viscous substance that interferes with normal operation. In addition, this abrasive composition accelerates the wear of the seals with the subsequent occurrence of leaks.
- Severe wear of components.
- Corrosion or mechanical damage to parts, leading to their distortion, cracks and similar defects.
Since steering in terms of importance in a car is comparable only to the brake system and the life and health of the driver, passengers and others depends on its serviceability 
road users, it is best to entrust the diagnosis of malfunctions to a workshop master. Basically, "symptoms" can be diagnosed either by ear (extraneous sounds - creaking, knocking), or tactilely (vibration of the steering wheel, its non-standard rotation modes, disappearance of steering effort in different steering modes), or "by eye" (fluid drips on asphalt under the knot).
During diagnostics, the condition of the longitudinal and transverse rods is checked (in case of corrosion or mechanical damage, the rail is replaced), and the tightness of the nut tightening and the condition of the special tightening bolt are determined.
Not all steering rack breakdowns are solved by replacing parts: sometimes it only takes a short adjustment and you can drive safely again. In particular, with a "tight" steering wheel, it may be necessary to adjust the engagement in the transmission pair with topping up or changing the oil in the crankcase. A knock in the assembly can be caused by a backlash that appears, which is corrected by a master tightening the adjusting screw located in the steering gear. By the way, excessive tightening can lead to the appearance of "heaviness" when turning the steering wheel.
Repair of the Galant steering rack begins with a complete disassembly of the unit to identify possible defects. Parts are thoroughly cleaned and polished, bearings and seals are replaced with new ones. Also, at the request of the customer, a complete replacement of anthers, steering tips and rods is carried out.
Further, the parts are checked for requirements from the manufacturer with replacement if they do not meet these requirements (it is unnecessary to mention that we work only with original components). Thereafter 
the node is assembled and checked at a special stand in order to determine compliance with the performance parameters. If the steering tips or tie rods have been replaced, a check for wheel alignment is also carried out, also at a special stand.
Experts and ordinary drivers alike agree that extreme driving on uneven surfaces and sharp turns does not extend the life of a steering rack at all - however, you yourself know about this. But many people forget that in the cold season it is necessary to "warm up" the fluid in the crankcase and the hydraulic booster. To do this, before starting the movement, smoothly turn the steering wheel to the right and left at small angles.
In general, it is better to entrust the repair of the Galant rail to specialists, despite the seeming simplicity, because even a small error during the repair can give rise to another problem - especially since, compared to the cost of components, the cost of professional work is low.So, if you hear a knock from under the hood and start taming the steering wheel, do not pull, go to the service station.
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nifiga I do not understand. if there is a backlash in the steering rod, then where does the whole rail have to do with it?
and what are they going to do with a rail for 20 tr if it does not flow?
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20 rubles for the entire procedure is almost a normal price.
In mms, when it was 18r. right now it is more expensive to love.
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The author, as I understand it, did not understand the difference between traction and rail, so I wrote it clumsily, the problem is in the rail.
I xs like on dorests, but you can't change the thrust for a flight to Europe without a special key.
Tupac86 (06 Jul 2016 - 03:13) wrote:
The author, as I understand it, did not understand the difference between traction and rail, so I wrote it clumsily, the problem is in the rail.
I xs like on dorests, but you can't change the thrust for a flight to Europe without a special key.
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Rasel (06 July 2016 - 07:25) wrote:
Tupac86 (06 July 2016 - 09:13) wrote:
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Well, for taking off-putting somewhere else shirts 5.
In general, somewhere I came across an announcement and there the exchange of the rake was 7700 and it was a restyle one, I even blurted out the availability and specified it.
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in short, we summarize. aftor himself will not go anywhere
either the steering rod can knock. this is 500 rubles the cost of traction and 500-1000 its replacement
the pinion-rack connection inside the rack can knock. adjustment costs about 1000 rubles, the removal of the rail does not require
to remove the rail and take it somewhere, it makes no sense to sort out in this case
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MiH 2000 (07 July 2016 - 14:21) wrote:
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It's like a non-removable bearing of a mortar from him))) and both, front.
On the subject: what is the funniest topic in its own sense, as it were, probably all the same about the steering rack, about traction, I think no service would break so hard for replacing traction)))
And yes - Andy, for 1000r on a luminous stretcher, no one will tighten the rail for you, you need to lower the stretcher, beat the rail and take it to the side.
Some operations were carried out using rather extreme methods, so everything was at our own risk (everything worked out for us without negative consequences).
Right-left relative to the movement of the machine. Those. the driver's side is left.
The names of the units and components are their own, they may not agree with books and other sources 
You will need:
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Steering rack repair kit
Litol (grease the balls of the steering rods under the anthers and the universal joint shaft of the steering wheel)
Keys
Gas-burner
1. Remove the wheels, unscrew the steering tips (you do not need to knock them out of the steering knuckle because the steering rods are spinning when the anther clamps are removed).
2. Remove the air duct to the filter (2 bolts to 10), the left branch pipe to the radiator, the propeller (4 nuts to 10), the plastic protection of the radiator (between the radiator and the engine, 2 bolts to 10).
3. Remove the rubber hose from the top of the rail, unscrew the metal tube from the crossbeam (bolt 12).
4. Unscrew the locking bolt 12 from the steering wheel gimbal to the rack (there are two gimbals, it is easier to remove the lower one, directly from the rack) and spill the gimbal with a VDshka. We lift the car on a lift.
5. Unscrew 4 bolts (like 17, on the left with nuts, on the right without) - fastening the rail.
6. Unscrew the left front axle mounting bracket. Only 5 bolts for 17 or 19. We leave the bracket hanging on the axle shaft - it will not hurt. See photo 01.
7. Unscrew the incoming and outgoing pipes from the power steering from the rail. It was easier for us to do this from the bottom left wheel. See photo 01.
Last edited by Kiread on Wed May 22, 2013 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Today they found that the steering rack tarnished its reputation. liquid began to leak from the left side.
control of new sensations did not appear, as well as new sounds, the liquid level is still within the aisles of the norm
suggested two options: either replace it with a used one from disassembly, or sort out what is.
the second option, somehow I like it better, but I don't quite understand its reality
the handler's hands grow very correctly)))
but the repair kit is already more difficult)
Now he is sweating again, not flowing, namely, he is sweating.
True, she began to sweat with me not where in your case, but where it joins the steering shaft.
Sanya, when I bought the car, I saw that the high-pressure hose was sweating and the joint that you had, it still fogged up (1.5 years as I have been using the car) left the liquid tank about half a centimeter (and it’s not known how long it was before me “ sweaty ")))).
I also have a rake that is misted in places wet. the liquid left according to the mood, then in a week it will go away that it was necessary to top up, then it does not move for several months.
I’m just a little pondering the question of second-hand or restoration.
The liquid level in the pressure tank is above average, i.e. not much has flowed under the bridge, today a small puddle in a diameter of about 5-6 cm.
was on Success, he was holding the original repair kit, the number was not allowed to write off. 85 $
in another store they offered Manol's sealant for rails, 300ml, (65 UAH) is poured completely, they say it restores the properties of rubber.
was holding the original repair kit, the number was not allowed to be written off
The Japanese concern no longer produces Galant models. But these reliable sedans are still popular with us today. Novosibirsk carries out repair of these models in many car services. But if problems appear in the steering rack, it will not be possible to restore this unit in every workshop. Meanwhile, it is not always advisable to replace a faulty mechanism. Qualified mechanics of "NSK Detal" will be able to quickly and inexpensively perform repairs, if the wear of the steering rack on the Mitsubishi Galant is not cardinal.
Many problems with steering racks on the Mitsubishi Galant can be eliminated. If you have contacted a car service when the first signs of a malfunction of the unit appear, you can restore its operation, ensure driving safety, and ease of management. For example, if a distribution gearbox is out of order, by timely replacing this component, damage to other elements, the need for complex repairs, and the installation of a new rail can be avoided.
The type of restoration work depends on the type and degree of the malfunction. You may need:
- high-quality cleaning of elements, removal of rust;
- restoration of damaged components;
- installation of new parts;
- replacement of the entire unit.
Regardless of the type of damage, the repair of rails on Mitsubishi Galant in our workshops is carried out promptly at a high level. The unit is restored by experienced mechanics with special qualifications. The workshops are well equipped, there are always oil seals and crackers, the main shaft and bearing bushings, and other types of running parts.
The presence of significant damage in the unit requires the installation of a new mechanism. The reasonable cost of the original steering racks on the Mitsubishi Galant allows for replacement without exorbitant expense. These units are supplied by leading companies in Europe, which guarantees high quality and reliability.
Some experienced car owners replace steering racks on Mitsubishi Galant with their own hands. You can order an original mechanism from our company. Low price, the delivery system ensures the availability of rails for every consumer. To find out exactly how much this node costs now, you can call
Message dymart Feb 17, 2014 5:31 pm
Message vpriz Feb 01, 2014 at 6:43 pm
Message dymart Wed Jan 17, 2014 6:59 pm
Message Shock Feb 17, 2014 7:18 pm
Message dymart Feb 17, 2014 7:54 pm
Message romaxa Feb 17, 2014 8:10 pm
Message Shock Feb 17, 2014 8:52 pm
Message ! serzh Feb 01, 2014 at 9:12 pm
Message csandr Sat Jan 18, 2014 2:15 am
Message dymart Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:48 am
Message Shock Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:53 am
Message dymart 09 Feb 2014 12:48 am
In repairs, they offer a guarantee from six months to a year, which depends on - it is not clear.
And regarding the replacement with a used ear one, we agreed that if I put it on with them, then if something goes wrong, they will answer.
They do not repair the slats themselves, they carry them somewhere, so they offered an alternative - to replace them. They would have received their money for withdrawing / placing. But that is not even the question.
I remembered how I put the signaling at the previous gala. Then all two years the material of these installers (if anything, auto defense somewhere in the Tula region). Installed anyhow, the signaling all the time did not work as it should. I came to the manufacturer twice, took it off myself, wore it, they altered it, changed the key fobs .. In the end, they did not fix anything, they said that something was somehow wrong, go to the installers to take off and watch everything.
I want to eliminate the maximum number of problems so as not to waste time on them. After all, the gala did not have any illnesses with rail, so that someone would complain, so there is a good chance that a new used one will be good. I read that the mechanism is very fragile, and I only hope that it was not kicked from corner to corner.
Of course, someone might have spent a day on this. In existential terms, as I understood, if you buy all the consumables on the rail, they will cost about 3 thousand, that is, 7 to give for work on average in the market. But, unfortunately, I can't do it myself.
Message QuadLight Feb 21, 2014 11:56 am
In repairs, they offer a guarantee from six months to a year, which depends on - it is not clear.
And regarding the replacement with a used ear one, we agreed that if I put it on with them, then if something goes wrong, they will answer.
They do not repair the slats themselves, they carry them somewhere, so they offered an alternative - to replace them. They would have received their money for withdrawing / placing. But that is not even the question.
I remembered how I put the signaling at the previous gala. Then all two years the material of these installers (if anything, auto defense somewhere in the Tula region). Installed anyhow, the signaling all the time did not work as it should. I came to the manufacturer twice, took it off myself, wore it, they altered it, changed the key fobs .. In the end, they did not fix anything, they said that something was somehow wrong, go to the installers to take off and watch everything.
I want to eliminate the maximum number of problems so as not to waste time on them. After all, the gala did not have any illnesses with rail, so that someone would complain, so there is a good chance that a new used one will be good. I read that the mechanism is very fragile, and I only hope that it was not kicked from corner to corner.
Of course, someone might have spent a day on this. In existential terms, as I understood, if you buy all the consumables on the rail, they will cost about 3 thousand, that is, 7 to give for work on average in the market. But, unfortunately, I can't do it myself.
In general, I already wrote this on the forum .. but again. I changed the rail + pump + steering card. The rail was leaking. the pump hummed. there is a backlash in the cardan. Turnkey issue price work + parts - 40100r. in the morning at 9, I gave it at 7 pm at home drinking tea satisfied.
Did here -> - everyone who supposedly repairs and undertakes these works .. The rails themselves are removed and taken to them
There are already units, they sort out all the factory restoration. There is a workshop and equipment. what is important. Not just repair kits, but just a machine tool.
Those. in fact, they make a new part, only the old repaired and painted case remains. The guarantee is also given by the passport for the assembly.
If your problem is still urgent. then only to them (I'm not for the sake of advertising, but just personal experience)
Message QuadLight Feb 21, 2014 12:11 pm
Well, I really do not advise you to buy a rail Boo .. yes the unit is not painful at least from a galant. But. judge for yourself to give 2500 to remove, put + 8700 for restoration (I have so much on the check) + flushing the circuit and replacing the slurry + descent collapse (where without it with such work). Well, it's not such a straightforward problem and to ride further hundreds of thousands, changing the gur I slurry every 25,000 runs.
Message dymart Apr 07, 2014 5:38 pm
QuadLight wrote:. add.
Well, I really do not advise you to buy a rail Boo .. yes the unit is not painful at least from a galant. But.judge for yourself to give 2500 to remove, put + 8700 for restoration (I have so much on the check) + flushing the circuit and replacing the slurry + descent collapse (where without it with such work). Well, it's not such a straightforward problem and to ride further hundreds of thousands, changing the gur I slurry every 25,000 runs.
My thoughts were that it was less risky to put a rail that worked for itself and did not know troubles at some gala. They took it off and put it on. And it is unclear to whom it is clear to give it for repair, and even more so to give the car for repair, which will carry this rail somewhere else and do it, is more risky.
They changed the rail for me, it seems to work, the fluid level is normal. True, there are questions about the collapse and the steering wheel, in which something rings on bumps. By the way, who knows, the steering wheel is removed, the steering column is disassembled during these operations: replacing r / r and vanishing / camber?
Message dymart Apr 07, 2014 5:45 pm
Message QuadLight Apr 10, 2014 12:06 pm
maybe a cardan of the steering drive.
When I was restoring the rail, I was strongly offered to fix it, which I did.
If there was no rail before removing the installation, then of course to them.
They filmed everything there. something could not be twisted. But the steering universal joint and steering wheel do not move during such work.
If you climb at the gas pedal, you can see there is a hole in the floor where the steering gear goes there and articulates there.
That's where they get corroded when removing the rail.
Message Alexey86 Feb 27, 2015 8:22 am
Message QuadLight Feb 27, 2015 11:25 am
I repaired the rail on a galante.
In short, the options are as follows.
1 - Replacement with a new one. And I don’t need to start explaining something like “oh yes you can rest, oh yes 75,000 rubles oh oh oh”. there is one option - a new rail assembly.
The second option is "the miser pays twice." This, of course, is about a rebuild. There are also options here. There is a renovation. there is a rebuild, there is a recovery. What are the differences. Repair is - "here you have knocking - they fixed it." No matter how - if it doesn't knock - we rejoice at the ride (not for long - I assure you. Something else will break, and in fact due to the fact that I was fixing something.
Rebuild is expensive. Everything is sorted out - all things that have signs of wear are thrown out. more than 25%. sandblasting the body, etc. receptions. replacement of all gaskets. shaft groove. again using spacers for new shaft sizes. assembly and testing - at the stand.
Recovery - here is something in between - ala, here we have pierced the shaft and the gaskets are still alive - we left our own. Garbage is shorter and not a method.
In the end, what do you get by making a rebuild repair restoration - in the pants of a gimoroi most likely.
the rail was leaking. well, what .. gave it away. "Hydraulics" -> in Moscow. 7 o'clock .. ready.
They do exactly the rebuild. it came out in December 2013 - 7900 - only work on rebuilding the rake. What we have now is a persistent feeling that it is somehow not right to steer. If the feedback became tough, the roofing felts lost the habit of the laxity that a family had over the years of driving. roofing felts the spool in the rail is killed and it was not repaired or not put in the right way. and mows down the pressure of the steering wheel somehow.
In short, I don’t understand these gimoroi. I regretted more than once .. and then .. in 2013, for some reason (do not ask why I don’t know. the rake cost 115,000 rubles in existential)
In the summer it was 35,000 (I literally licked my lips with tears in my eyes .. buy not buy, did not buy - went out of sale)
And now it is 75,000. expensive. But new. !
And now, after a while .. for me. after all these half measures - only a new one. no options. already sorry for the cruel truth. Better do as you can and then put a new one as you save up. or sell and buy a car where the rails cost 20-30,000.
Message greygoos Feb 27, 2015 11:30 pm
Message QuadLight Feb 27, 2015 11:43 pm
Not. I think in my case it's just my own cockroaches. it turned out that the new is combined with the old. In particular, the new rail and old salentblocks in it. (there are 4 of them). Again, wide tires. low profile. New levers and dampers and old salentblocks in a stretcher. Here porridge in behavior is obtained because of this here. But this, again, is at a micro level of some kind that I feel and it causes some discomfort.
Well, the rake .. Th th .. does not flow .. quietly. Well, why take more with her. The rebuilt rail will last its 40-60,000 mileage. If you drive quietly ala city - work - home. Steering with a quiet ride is pretty much nothing like that .. On the track, yes .. the feeling that you are on the 20th radius .. although everything is on the 35th ..... Well, he bites the steering wheel if you zafigachit at 80 km / h 120 degrees to the left or right and sharply the steering wheel and with all the foolishness in the opposite direction. while the gas is in the floor. Well, I'm sorry. I doubt very much that there is anyone on the forum who tried to do it on Galante. And then people who had traveled earlier also complained about it. the disease seems to be constructive.
I just mean that, well, restoring a part is always a compromise. well, they cannot remove the knock just like that. if there is production, then it is somehow compensated. Leak if is bullshit. gaskets as a matter of fact. but a crooked shaft or development - there will already be questions even after the rebuild.
Message ! serzh Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:47 pm
I will subscribe!
Bro, your approach is somewhat boring, meticulous, but that's the beauty of it. people like you get to the bottom of it. respect)))
By the way, I agree with your opinion that replacing the rail without replacing the silent, etc. is a half measure. But a bottle is always a compromise. but I personally forgive the gal. in half of the car what we are complaining about is a gift and people are happy with what we have. only we got it cheaper than them))
Message Alexey86 Mar 01, 2015 4:41 pm
Message QuadLight »Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:14 am
It is very important to put the center of the shaft there - the rudder and the spool. That's where the trouble is. On the restored ones, the spool and shaft that are in the rail (and this is, in fact, in the hydrorail - the valve) may not be so installed when assembling the rail or, due to the development and replacement of the part, have slightly different indicators, and then the absolute center of the rail (even if you set it and put it on the steering shaft when assembling) - it will have a valve as if slightly open and when the gas is in the floor it can mow the shaft with pressure, i.e. wheels - and you are struggling with this to turn the steering wheel so that it goes straight. Well, it is clear that the atomic level is ala 1-2 degrees on the steering wheel .. and in essence, you can at the descent collapse putting the steering wheel in the center a little to eliminate this error. but this is no longer good.
now I have something similar in myself. and I xs roofing felts is rubber, roofing felts is a track on the road, roofing felts my camber is heterogeneous +15 minutes to the left and 4 minutes to the right. tolly stretcher walks at the expense of salentblocks are not as hard as those from the factory. The trouble is straightforward. and I noticed a worsening by replacing everything nafig. for a new one. levers. stub racks, stub bushings, and tips and so on .. everything is shorter except for salent blocks in a stretcher and rail.
Moreover, if earlier backlashes and torn rubber bands gave some comfort - ala the steering wheel in the center of the wheel they themselves live their own lives, now everything is tough to madness. here you can roughly understand what it is - pumping 35 profile 245 rubber to 3.0 pressure and go +1. here's something like that. the feeling of a rut is the wildest. It's almost impossible to drive on a three-ruble note just by keeping your hands on the steering wheels. it is always necessary to both and steer to the left or to the right by 1-2 degrees. those. wild sensitivity.
at a traffic light, gas and the steering wheel pulls out to match the road - a rut
Well, all this, of course, was earlier (as the owner of my former Galant says). with time, it seems to have gone .. oh, then I got it at 5 years old and here once everything is new - and a certain blood pressure has come for me.
by his standards bullshit .. he has Megan RS - that's where the fuck is kid. 320 horses per 1.4t weight. and everything is 2 times tougher + new.
In general, damn it, I xs what I have .. but in general, returning to the rails - the hydrorail is evil. It is better not to fix them. Here are some external gaskets to change at the points of attachment of hoses or antlers, or something like that, it's always welcome for little things .. But a thorough repair is not .. rebuild and you can still. Here in Moscow, they do this in hydraulics there, and they can install new shafts and so on. those. they do it seriously and with a guarantee. Actually, even the documents give out soaps, here you have an aggregate of such-and-such and they punch their number there, etc. - i.e. well, roughly speaking, make their racks compatible with your car. But still, the factory part is still Japan. and the rake we have, by the way, KOYO is another matter.
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EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
1999
Who handled the steering rack himself? You need the numbers of the oil seals (the inner oil seal and the side oil seal is the one that sits in the sleeve) and the number of the rubber band on the sleeve. EA3A 1999, 2.4 GDI Europe
Post has been edited AndreyJIUC – 22.4.2013, 23:09
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Bulkhead cost - 7-9 thousand
Flowing heavily ??
My rail was leaking, I drove for 3 years, I stopped myself ..
8 (905) 563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was .. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was ..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was ..
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Photos nnnnnad?
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The album is periodically updated and supplied with new photos.
Break the law of meanness - do good!
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8 (905) 563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was .. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was ..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was ..
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1999
We sleep in one bed on opposite sides of the wall.
People can drink together, live nearby, make love, but only joint activities of idiocy can indicate real spiritual closeness)))
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Other model
8 (905) 563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was .. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was ..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was ..
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Group: Users
Posts: 135
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EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
1999
Active member
Group: ORG.TEAM
Posts: 3,616
Said thanks: 725 times
Other model
8 (905) 563-52-nine nine
1. E52A 1.8 manual transmission was .. 4. Ford Explorer 4.6 V8 was ..
2. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was .. 5. Nissan Teana 3.5 V6 is
3. EA5A 2.5 automatic transmission was ..
Participant
Group: Users
Posts: 135
Said thanks: 7 times
EA3A 4G64 (GDI)
1999
46043A BUSHING ASSY, STEERING GEAR this is the sleeve that I wrote to you in the LS, the bushing itself, the sealing gum on it and inside the gland, but I only need the gland and the gum. according to this scheme, I looked out for all the eyes, but on the left side I did not find even a hint of an oil seal, but it is.
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Post has been edited AndreyJIUC – 24.4.2013, 12:41
