In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair on a delica from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Dextron ran from the steering rack MMC Delica.
Initially, in order not to bother, I purchased the Power Steering Tuning fluid. Of course, she helped, but not for long, only for a year, after a year of driving, the dextron ran again.
I drove to the service station and then with what agility the master agreed to repair the rack for fifty bucks, in just half a day, I was a little embarrassed, I got the impression that removing the steering rack, work for a ruble, and you would have to pay ten.
Without thinking twice, I decided to try to repair it myself.
It turned out that the repair is really not very difficult, but experience is still needed.
I will not describe those touching moments when I acquired this very experience within three days. In general, the three-hour work cost me three days of wasted time and those same fifty bucks for damaged oil seals, which had to be changed twice.
But experience is always good, no matter how bad.
In general, I decided to write an article, after reading which, I hope, you will avoid the mistakes that I made.
The rail can be repaired without a viewing hole, but it is better, of course, from a viewing hole or a lift.
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Mine just leaked too. flows to the right when the steering wheel is in the extreme right position. I wanted to ask the Wheelchair where it is?
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Mine just leaked too. flows to the right when the steering wheel is in the extreme right position. I wanted to ask the Wheelchair where it is?
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An innovative idea allows you to cheaply repair the steering rack with your own hands. Those who wish are given the opportunity to learn from experience and, using improvised materials, improve this part of the mechanism of their car.
This video provides information about the innovative idea and the use of improvised materials during troubleshooting the steering rack at home. A non-standard approach to eliminating extraneous sounds while driving a vehicle delights with its simplicity and the result obtained. This solution will allow you to forget about the knocking steering rack for a long time.
For anyone who wants to see the original repair of the steering rack with their own hands, the video clip provides such an opportunity. Steps to troubleshoot a device that controls wheel movement and vehicle direction include:
- unscrewing the bolts and squeezing the clamps with the steering wheel unscrewed with a 22 mm ring wrench;
- removing the bushings and unscrewing the bolt on the steering rack in the passenger compartment in the area of the pedals with a 14 mm wrench;
- removing the clamps from the steering rack and removing the device through the wheel;
- releasing the steering rack from thin clamps with an awl and a thin screwdriver and anther;
- preparation of several pieces of plastic from watering cans, canisters and other products to fill the free space between the metal body of the rail and the support sleeve. The size of the blanks must correspond to the length and width of the recess for the movement of the sleeve;
- inserting blanks inside the steering rack until it stops against the sleeve, among which the last element should be the most rigid;
- checking the free movement of the sleeve on the plastic, tightly installed in the cavity of the rail;
- installing the steering rack in place.
This solution eliminates the knocking of the support sleeve for a long period of time.
The hydraulic power steering gearbox (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part of both cars with hydraulic power steering and cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the car can hardly be overestimated.
Steering rack parts wear out quickly enough, because. take on the bulk of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase gets into potholes and pits in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be carried out periodically, which allows you to identify all malfunctions at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
- The presence of knocks in the gearbox transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
- Increase the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
- Extraneous noise that occurs during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
- The presence of play in the steering rack, felt in the process of turning the steering wheel;
- Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Any of these symptoms indicate a malfunction that must be fixed immediately. The lack of timely work carried out can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is detected, the car can be handed over to car service specialists or you can repair the steering rack yourself. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
For a complete repair of the steering rack, the following spare parts and tools should be on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
- corrugation;
- gear shaft;
- bearing;
- lubricant mixture.
- octahedron key for 17;
- tools for mounting and dismounting of bearings;
- set of wrenches.
For the most high-quality repair, it is desirable to use a flyover or a viewing hole.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto a flyover or inspection hole, after which, using jacks, the car should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and the wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the tie rod ends, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer.The next step consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns of the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the gearbox of the hydraulic power steering. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on the parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
- Removing the rubber boot.
- Dismantling the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
- Removing the locknut that secures the rack shaft pressure cup.
- Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with light blows.
- Disassembly of the adjuster.
- Removing the adjusting glass.
- Dismantling the clamping piston.
After finishing work on disassembling the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from oil and dirt that have accumulated on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for mechanical damage that occurs during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in reverse order.
There are no significant differences between the repair of the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only the bushings and compositions of the fluids used to lubricate the parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above work, it is recommended to carry out the procedure for diagnosing wheel alignment.
The total time for which it is possible to repair the steering rack varies in the range from two to three hours. These repairs are classified as works of medium complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, are quite realistic to carry out even for a novice motorist who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
The replacement of the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack is done if the rack is no longer repairable or due to mechanical damage to the rack. Along with the replacement of the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack, we recommend immediately replacing the tie rods and tips.
You can determine the need for repair or replacement of the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack at a free diagnostic in our car services. Usually, if the rail is leaking, then repair is possible in 90% of the cases. If there is a knock in the rack, then repairs can cost more than replacing with a new or rebuilt steering rack.
Service station on Citizen – 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino – 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 am to 8 pm, closed
WhatApp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33
After replacing the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack, it is imperative to replace the fluid in the power steering, as well as to make the wheel alignment.
We strongly recommend that you check the operation of the power steering pump. Often, the culprit for the failure of the rack is the power steering pump. When the valve sinks, excess pressure is created in the rail and the seals begin to flow. You can replace the rail with a new one and after a month, if the power steering pump is faulty, the new rail will also fail.
If the power steering reservoir is empty, and you don’t know what to fill in there, we do not recommend moving on your own or pouring any liquid into it. It is better to use the towing service.
Each car has such a device as a steering rack.Its main function is to turn the wheels in different directions when the car is moving. Periodic inspection of the steering mechanism is necessary in order to save yourself from serious breakdowns and emergencies in the future.
The steering rack is connected to the wheels of the car with ball joints. The steering rack features are directly affected by the type of control - hydraulic and mechanical. The mechanical type is often found on domestic cars, as well as on some older foreign cars. Hydraulic, basically, is only in the design of imported cars.
All automotive parts are subject to wear and tear. But most of all this applies to the steering rack mechanism. It is her mechanism that takes all the blows, runs into deep holes that arise due to bumps on the roads. No matter how careful you are, a breakdown will happen sooner or later.
To determine the breakdown in the steering rack and the need for its repair, you need to make sure that the rest of the chassis of the car is in good condition. You can do this at any specialized car service. When identifying certain causes of breakdowns in the chassis of the car, it is best to eliminate them on the spot, without postponing for tomorrow.
The main signs of a breakdown or malfunction in the steering rack should be learned how twice two are - this knowledge will save you from many troubles. So, often problems in the rail give out a significant increase in effort when turning the steering wheel. For hydraulic vehicles, you need to constantly monitor the fluid level, and top up the missing fluid if necessary.
If the vehicle is hydraulically controlled, then there may be a loud sound or extraneous noise in the power steering pump when cornering. While driving, an unpleasant knock may appear, which gives very much to the steering wheel. When turning the steering wheel, there may be a slight play. It appears no matter which way you turn the steering wheel.
The most common sign of a breakdown is a slight oil leakage, this phenomenon is typical for both types of vehicle control. The cause of this failure is the wear of the steering rack oil seal. When such reasons appear, repairs must be carried out immediately so that your vehicle control mechanism does not completely fail while driving.
It is much easier to repair the steering rack for a car with a mechanical type of control than in the case of a hydraulic one. We will consider an example of replacing and repairing a hydraulic type of control, since in this case you will learn about all the possible difficulties. First you need to figure out what elements the steering rack consists of.
The main elements are a toothed shaft, a support sleeve and a spool mechanism. In a hydraulic type mechanism, a pump is attached to the steering rack, which directly drives it. When removing the rail, by the way, it interferes very much. It is very difficult to repair the steering rack. If you have never performed this procedure, then it is best to contact a car service or a knowledgeable friend who will help you complete the basic operations.
In addition to knowledge, you will need a number of tools and spare parts - ready-made repair kits are sold especially for work. It is different for every car model. But some elements are suitable for cars of the same brand - this often happens in the case of domestic cars. When the repair kit is purchased, you can proceed to disassemble the rail. This is best done on a lift or in a viewing hole.
First you need to fix the steering wheel evenly and put the car on the handbrake. You can fix the steering wheel using the locking mechanism, or by wrapping it with sealing tape along with the steering column. The next step is to remove the engine protection, if you have one. After that, unscrew the fasteners - fold them separately so that during the assembly stage you do not lose them and do not get confused.
Under the hood, if necessary, remove the air filter by moving the nozzles to the side. Disable electronic chips that may interfere with the removal of the steering rack. If you have a hydraulic control system, then you must first pump out all the fluid from the reservoir. Nowadays, it is very expensive, so saving will not hurt you - carefully pump it into a clean canister.
Inside the car, you need to unscrew and then knock out the cam mechanism. The high and low pressure pipes in the hydraulic booster must be unscrewed with a special wrench so as not to “lick” the edges. In no case do not try to rip them off with other improvised tools. This may lead to the need to completely replace them, and for this the tubes will need to be flared. You cannot do this at home, so you will have to contact a specialized service, so that all your savings will come to naught.
The cam mechanism is located near the gas and brake pedals. As soon as you remove it, the rail with all its mechanisms and bearings can be pulled out of the car. During the dismantling process, complications may arise with the steering rods and ball ends, you may need to unscrew them. But it's best if you get them with the rail, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to install when everything is assembled.
The next step is to disassemble the steering rack mechanism and replace parts. At this stage, it is very important to remember the correct location of all parts and the order in which they are removed. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the plastic plug on the gear shaft. After that, you need to unscrew the lock nut, do it carefully so as not to strip the thread. Lubricate threaded connections if necessary. Next, use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring and the lower rail oil seal.
Using a hammer, you need to remove the locking pin, because it blocks access to the upper gland. In most cases, it is necessary to replace the upper steering rack oil seal - it is he who wears out the most during operation, the most load falls on the mechanism of its bearing. The steering rack oil seal is located along with the bearing on the steering cardan. It is necessary to remove the oil seal together with the bearing and then, using a suitable type of key, knock it out.
This must be done with extreme caution, because the cylindrical bearing balls can fly out. A new bearing is very expensive and not easy to buy. If necessary, also replace the lower steering rack seal. Its replacement is much easier than the top one. To install the oil seal, it must first be lubricated along with the bearing. You need to install it on the right side so that the spring is pointing down. After that, install the rail into the housing and put on the plastic sleeve.
Fix the gland in the desired position by pressing its edges with a screwdriver. If necessary, push it. Fix the plug on the stuffing box with a retaining ring. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft. The steering rack must be centered as accurately as possible. Screw the steering rack bushing in the car in the same order as when removing it. To do this, rotate it until you reach the desired goal. Then return the parts to their place in the same sequence as when removing them.
After carrying out all the work on replacing the steering rack oil seal, as well as repairing the entire mechanism, you need to make a wheel alignment. You should make sure that he has not lost his way, because you removed the steering rack along with the steering rods. Also, if necessary, you need to set the steering wheel if it has shifts to the right or left. To do this, remove the cover from the signal button, unscrew the lock nut and adjust the steering wheel on the slots.
After that, assemble everything in reverse order.It is much easier to replace the upper and lower oil seals in the mechanical type of control, however, the failure of the steering rack also occurs much more often.
In order for the steering mechanism to serve you longer in the future, you need to replace the necessary components in time, camber and balance the wheels, avoid sections of the road with large pits, maintain the necessary pressure in the tires of the car, change the steering fluid in a timely manner, top up if necessary. All these tips will help you enjoy the pleasure of driving your car in the future.
Organization of the turn of the machine - one of the main functions of the steering rack. It is available for cars with power steering and for those in which there is no power steering. The steering rack connects the steering wheel to the wheels, so it is very important, as it is responsible for the safety of the driver and passengers.
Main signs of a malfunction of the mechanism:
- there was play in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
- the sound of knocking in the device, which can be felt through the steering wheel of the car;
- there was a leak of hydraulic booster oil from the steering rack;
- there was noise and strange sounds in the power steering pump;
- now you need to rotate the steering wheel with special effort.
The steering rack is leaking and needs to be repaired. It should be said right away that the repair will be very difficult and it is recommended to start it with experienced drivers, as well as if you have all the necessary equipment at hand.
The steering rack mechanism includes such details:
- spool mechanism;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- toothed shaft.
- Dismantling the steering rack and also cleaning parts.
- Replacement of defective parts of the device with new parts.
- Full diagnostics of the gear shaft of the mechanism.
Before repair, it is necessary to have new parts for the steering rack on hand (mechanism bushing, oil seals, ring seals, etc.).
- Raise the car with a jack or drive it into a pit.
- Remove the steering rack heat shield.
- Next, carefully unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Unfasten the rail and pull it out.
1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods with a flat screwdriver.
2. Next, you need to unscrew the plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Loosen the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and carefully knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Next, you need to remove the lower oil seal.
6. Pull out the locking pin by tapping.
7. Now turn the retaining plug and remove the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side, and also remove the plastic bushing and oil seal from it.
9. Pull out the plug and gland, clamping mechanism and spring.
Now you need to wash all parts from dirt and oil, and also check all parts for damage. If there are, then replace them. If there is severe damage on the surface of the steering rack and gear shaft, then the entire mechanism is usually replaced.
1. Lubricate the oil seal with special grease and carefully place the inner oil seal in place (placed through the right side with the spring down).
2. Install the rail into the housing.
3. Put a plastic sleeve on the right oil seal, lubricate the parts with grease and install the oil seal in the right place (you can push it).
4. Now you need to install and fix the plug with the lock wire.
5. Put the bottom oil seal on the gear shaft.
6. In the middle position, you need to install the steering rack.
7. Lubricate the gear shaft with seal grease and place it in its seat.
8. Carefully replace the top seal and install the circlip.
9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing and plug.
10. Next, install the clamping device, spring, plug.
Now you need to install the rack on the car in reverse order.
The steering rack transmits rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunction of this node makes the car less obedient.Steering rack components are subject to natural wear and tear and impact loads from driving on rough roads. This leads to the fact that by the mileage of 200-250 thousand km, the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of \u200b\u200bthe steering rack.
Handling has deteriorated, the car “throws”, this is especially acute at high speed.
The free play of the steering wheel (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it by hand.
The power steering pump is noisy, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is rotated.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir drops.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate steering rack wear, so before repairing, you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball joints, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to its original position may be the result of incorrect adjustment of the rack or a violation of the alignment of the wheels. If you have recently adjusted the rail, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment at the service station.
For vehicles with electric power steering, the cause of a “heavy” steering wheel may be a motor failure, an open or shorted circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, a malfunction of the system control unit, or blown fuses.
Fluid leakage from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are connected - oil flows through worn seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections, if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine the wear of parts inside the rail?
With the car turned off, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, it needs repair. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take his hand on the steering rod, so you can more accurately determine where the play is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rack of a 2009 Ford Focus II car. A new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for the Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool that you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Removing the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Place the front of the car on jack stands and remove the wheels.
Press the steering tips out of the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the rail heat shield.
For cars with hydraulic booster, unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the liquid), for cars with electric booster, disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Unscrew the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or motor shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the coupling bolt of the cardan connection of the rack with the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light blows of a hammer).
Pull out the rail through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the subframe can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try unscrewing only the rear bolts and the engine mount, then take the subframe down. Often this is enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rack in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and take it down, this is easier than removing the subframe completely.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will wear out quickly, the rail will leak. Fix the rail in a metal vise, if there are none, place clean cardboard or other material on the disassembly site.
Important: do not clamp the rail in the vise too hard - its body made of brittle aluminum alloy may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the anthers of the steering rods.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves on the threaded coupling for an open-end wrench).
Unscrew the lock nut and the nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the clamping sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the housing or drive shaft nut (you may need a special wrench), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the gear rod of the rack.
Remove the sealing cuffs, bushings and fluoroplastic rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and gear rod in the steering rack
Tip: before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can assemble it correctly later. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as it is loosened to ensure that the clamping sleeve is in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped of oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully inspected. Repair kits usually only come with rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings. This may not be sufficient for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod - it should not be damaged or worn. Pay special attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the rod that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, scratches and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the lath.
Deep corrosion of the rack rod. Such a detail cannot be placed.
On the oblique teeth of the drive shaft gear, there should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rail can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is the wear of the clamping sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scuffing. The clamping sleeve is usually not included in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Pressure sleeve wear - fluoroplastic insert is pressed through
Heavily worn and damaged rail parts cannot be restored in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that scoring does not form on the bushings.
Insert fluoroplastic rings and bushings into the rail body carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great effort. For accurate pressing, you can use the appropriate size socket head and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it on the marks made before disassembly, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut to the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily, without jamming. Tighten the adjustment locknut.
Tighten the steering rods and install the anthers, crimp them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the anther, moisture will get inside the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will leak.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the engine compartment, the other directs the universal joint into the splines of the shaft from the passenger compartment. The universal joint can only be placed in one position - there is a special casting in the spline connection, which must be combined with the groove on the counterpart. Do not immediately tighten the tie bolt - the universal joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft cardan coupling pinch bolt.
Insert the steering pins into the pins and tighten the nuts. Attach power steering tubes and hoses (or wire connectors for a system with EUR). Pour power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the "maximum" mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with hydraulic booster).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level has dropped.
Scroll the steering wheel from lock to lock several times, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump is not noisy, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering pipes for leakage.
Tip: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will make it more difficult to inspect the rail during the test drive.
After pumping, check once again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Steering rack repair can be considered successful if:
The knocks and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, confidently holds the road.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment in a car service or on your own.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It will take a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
Video (click to play). |
Specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, restore problematic elements that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, trust the rail repair to professionals.