In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The dextron ran from the MMC Delica steering rack.
Initially, in order not to bother, I purchased the "Power Steering Tuning" fluid. She, of course, helped, but not for long, only for a year, after a year of driving, the dextron started running again.
I drove to the service station and then with what agility the master agreed to repair the rail for fifty bucks, in just half a day, I was a little embarrassed, I got the impression that removing the steering rack, work for a ruble, and you have to pay ten.
Without thinking twice, I decided to try to repair it myself.
It turned out that the repair is really not very difficult, but experience is still needed.
I will not describe those touching moments when I gained this very experience for three days. In general, the three-hour work cost me three days of wasted time and the same fifty bucks for damaged oil seals, which had to be changed twice.
But the experience is always good, albeit a bad one.
In general, I decided to write an article, after reading which, I hope, you will avoid the mistakes that I made.
The rail can be repaired without a viewing hole, but it is better, of course, from a viewing hole or a lift.
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Mine also started flowing recently. flows to the right when the steering wheel is far-right. I wanted to ask Kolyasik where is it?
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An innovative idea allows you to cheaply repair the steering rack with your own hands. Those who wish are given the opportunity to learn from experience and, using available materials, improve this part of the mechanism of their car.
This video provides information on the innovative idea and the use of materials at home when troubleshooting steering rack problems at home. A non-standard approach to eliminating extraneous sounds while driving, delights in its simplicity and results. This solution will allow you to forget about the knocking steering rack for a long time.
For everyone who wants to watch the original repair of the steering rack with their own hands, the video clip provides such an opportunity. Troubleshooting steps for the device that controls the movement of the wheels and the direction of the vehicle include:
- unscrewing the bolts and squeezing out the clamps with the steering wheel unscrewed with a 22 mm spanner wrench;
- removing the bushings and unscrewing the bolt on the steering column in the passenger compartment in the area of the pedals with a 14 mm wrench;
- removing clamps from the steering rack and removing the device through the wheel;
- releasing the steering rack from thin clamps using an awl and a thin screwdriver and an anther;
- preparation of several pieces of plastic from watering cans, cans and other products to fill the free space between the metal rail body and the support sleeve. The size of the blanks must correspond to the length and width of the recess for the sleeve to move;
- inserting blanks inside the steering rack until it stops against the bushing, among which the last element should be the most rigid;
- checking the free movement of the sleeve over the plastic, tightly installed in the rack cavity;
- installation of the steering rack in place.
This solution eliminates the knock of the support sleeve for a long period of time.
The gearbox of the hydraulic power steering wheel (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part both for cars with hydraulic power steering and for cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the vehicle cannot be overestimated.
The parts of the steering rack wear out quickly enough, because take on the main part of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase hits potholes and holes in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be periodically carried out, which allows you to identify all faults at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
- The presence of knocks in the gearbox, transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
- An increase in the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
- Extraneous noise arising during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
- The presence of a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
- Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Any of the listed symptoms signals a malfunction that must be eliminated immediately. Lack of timely work can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is found, the car can be handed over to a car service specialist or the steering rack can be repaired with your own hands. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
To fully repair the steering rack, you should have the following spare parts and tools on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
- corrugation;
- gear shaft;
- bearing;
- lubricating mixture.
- octahedron key at 17;
- tools for mounting and dismounting bearings;
- set of wrenches.
For the highest quality repairs, it is advisable to use an overpass or inspection pit.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto an overpass or inspection pit, after which, with the help of jacks, the vehicle should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the ends of the steering rods, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer.The next stage consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns with the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the hydraulic power steering gearbox. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
- Removing the rubber boot.
- Dismantle the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
- Removing the lock nut securing the rack shaft clamping cup.
- Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with gentle blows.
- Dismantling the adjusting unit.
- Removing the adjusting glass.
- Removing the pressure piston.
After the completion of work on the disassembly of the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from the oil and dirt deposited on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for the presence of mechanical damage arising during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in the reverse order.
There are no significant differences between repairing the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only bushings and compositions of fluids used to lubricate parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above-described work, it is recommended to carry out the diagnostic procedure for wheel alignment.
The total time it takes to repair the steering rack varies from two to three hours. These repair work refers to work of an average degree of complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out even a novice car enthusiast who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
Replacement of the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack is done if the rack is no longer subject to repair or as a result of mechanical damage to the rack. Together with the replacement of the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack, we recommend that you immediately replace the steering rods and tips.
To determine the need to repair or replace the Mitsubishi Delica steering rack, you can use a free diagnostics in our car services. Usually, if the rail leaks, then repair is possible in 90% of cases. If there is a knock in the rail, then the repair can cost more than replacing it with a new or refurbished steering rack.
Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33
After replacing the steering rack of Mitsubishi Delica, it is imperative to replace the fluid in the power steering, as well as to make the wheel alignment.
We strongly recommend checking the operation of the power steering pump. Often, the culprit for the failure of the rail is the power steering pump. When the valve sinks, excessive pressure is created in the rail and the oil seals begin to flow. You can replace the rack with a new one and after a month, if the power steering pump is faulty, the new rack will also fail.
If the power steering tank is empty, and you do not know what to fill in there, we do not recommend moving on our own or pouring any liquid there. Better to use the tow truck service.
Each car has a device such as a steering rack.Its main function is to turn the wheels in different directions when the car is moving. It is necessary to periodically inspect the steering mechanism in order to save yourself from serious breakdowns and emergencies in the future.
The steering rack is connected to the wheels of the car by means of ball ends. The features of the steering rack are directly influenced by the type of control - hydraulic and mechanical. The mechanical type is often found on domestic cars, as well as on some old foreign cars. Hydraulic, basically, is only in the design of imported cars.
All car parts are subject to wear and tear. But most of all this applies to the steering rack mechanism. It is her mechanism that takes all the shocks, collisions into deep pits that arise from irregularities on the roads. No matter how careful you are a driver, a breakdown will happen sooner or later.
To determine if the steering rack is broken and if it needs to be repaired, you need to make sure that the rest of the chassis is in good working order. This can be done at any specialized car service. When identifying certain causes of breakdowns in the chassis of the car, it is best to eliminate them on the spot, not postponing until tomorrow.
The main signs of a breakdown or malfunction in the steering rack should be learned like two or two - this knowledge will save you a lot of trouble. So, often problems in the rack are given by a significant increase in efforts when turning the steering wheel. For hydraulic vehicles, the fluid level must be constantly monitored and, if necessary, topped up.
If the vehicle is hydraulically controlled, there may be a loud noise or abnormal noise in the power steering pump when cornering. While driving, an unpleasant knock may appear, which gives a lot to the steering wheel. Slight play may appear when the steering wheel is turned. It appears regardless of which way you turn the steering wheel.
The most common sign of a breakdown is a slight leakage of oil, this phenomenon is typical for both types of vehicle control. The reason for this breakdown is the wear of the steering rack oil seal. If such reasons appear, repairs must be made immediately so that your vehicle control mechanism does not completely fail while driving.
It is much easier to repair a steering rack for a car with a mechanical type of control than in the case of a hydraulic one. We will consider an example of replacing and repairing a hydraulic type of control, since in this case you will learn about all the possible difficulties. First you need to figure out what elements the steering rack consists of.
The main components are the toothed shaft, bearing bush and slide valve mechanism. In a hydraulic type mechanism, a pump is attached to the steering rack, which directly drives it. By the way, it gets in the way when removing the rail. Repairing the steering rack is very difficult. If you have never performed this procedure, then it is better to contact a car service or a knowledgeable friend who will help you do the basic operations.
In addition to knowledge, you will need a number of tools and spare parts - ready-made repair kits are sold specifically for work. It has its own for each car model. But some elements are suitable for a car of the same brand - this often happens in the case of domestic cars. When the repair kit is purchased, you can start disassembling the rail. This is best done on a lift or on a viewing pit.
First you need to lock the steering wheel straight and put the car on the handbrake. You can fix the steering wheel using the locking mechanism, or by wrapping it with sealing tape along with the steering column. The next step is to remove the engine protection, if you have one. After that, unscrew the fasteners - fold them separately so that during the assembly stage you do not lose them and do not get confused.
Under the hood, if necessary, remove the air filter by moving the pipes to the side. Disable electronic chips that can interfere with the removal of the steering rack. If you have a hydraulic control system, then you must first pump out all the liquid from the tank. Nowadays, it is very expensive, so the savings will not hurt you - carefully pump it into a clean canister.
Inside the car, you need to unscrew and then knock out the cam mechanism. The high and low pressure pipes in the hydraulic booster must be unscrewed with a special wrench so as not to "lick" the edges. Under no circumstances try to rip them off with other tools at hand. This can lead to the need to completely replace them, and for this the tubes will need to be expanded. You cannot do this at home, therefore you will have to contact a specialized service, so that all your savings will come to naught.
The cam mechanism is located near the gas and brake pedals. As soon as you remove it, the rail with all its mechanisms and bearings can be pulled out of the car. During the dismantling process, complications may arise with the steering rods and ball ends, it may be necessary to unscrew them. But best of all, if you take them out with the rail, because new anthers will be much more convenient to install when everything is assembled.
The next step is to disassemble the steering rack mechanism and replace parts. At this stage, it is very important to remember the correct location of all parts and the order of their removal. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the plastic cap on the gear shaft. After that, you need to unscrew the lock nut, do it carefully so as not to rip off the thread. If necessary, lubricate the threaded connections. Next, use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring and the lower rail seal.
Using a hammer, you need to remove the locking pin, because it blocks access to the upper stuffing box. In most cases, it is necessary to replace the upper oil seal of the steering rack - it is he who wears out the most during operation, the most of the load is applied to the mechanism of its bearing. The steering rack oil seal is located together with the bearing on the steering universal joint. It is necessary to remove the oil seal together with the bearing and then knock it out using a suitable type of wrench.
This must be done with extreme caution, as the cylindrical bearing balls can fly out. A new bearing is very expensive and not easy to buy. If necessary, also replace the lower steering rack oil seal. Replacing it is much easier than replacing the top one. To install the oil seal, it must first be lubricated together with the bearing. It must be installed with the right side so that the spring is directed downward. After that, install the rail in the body and put on the plastic sleeve.
Fix the oil seal in the desired position by pressing down on its edges with a screwdriver. If necessary, nudge it. Secure the plug on the gland with a retaining ring. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft. The steering rack must be centered as accurately as possible. Fasten the steering rack bush in the car in the same order as when removing. To do this, turn it until you reach the desired goal. Then return the parts to their place in the same sequence as when removing.
After carrying out all the work on replacing the steering rack oil seal, as well as repairing the entire mechanism, it is necessary to do the alignment. You should make sure that it is not strayed, because you removed the steering rack together with the steering rods. Also, if necessary, you need to set the steering wheel if it has shifts to the right or left. To do this, remove the cover from the signal button, unscrew the lock nut and adjust the steering wheel on the slots.
After that, collect everything in the reverse order.It is much easier to replace the upper and lower oil seal in the mechanical type of control, however, the steering rack failure occurs much more often.
In order for the steering mechanism to serve you longer, you need to replace the necessary components in time, do wheel alignment and balancing, avoid road sections with large pits, maintain the required pressure in the tires of the car, change the fluid for the steering mechanism in a timely manner, and top up if necessary. All these tips will help you enjoy the pleasant driving experience in the future.
Organization of the turning of the machine - one of the main functions of the steering rack. It is found in cars with power steering and those in which there is no power steering. The steering rack connects the steering wheel to the wheels, which is why it is very important as it is responsible for the safety of the driver and passengers.
The main signs of a malfunction of the mechanism:
- there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is turned;
- the sound of a knock on the device, which can be felt through the steering wheel of the car;
- there was a leakage of power steering oil from the steering rack;
- noise and strange sounds appeared in the power steering pump;
- now you need to rotate the steering wheel with special effort.
The steering rack is leaking and needs to be repaired. It should be said right away that the repair will be very difficult and it is recommended to start it for experienced drivers, as well as if you have all the necessary equipment at hand.
The steering rack mechanism includes such details:
- spool mechanism;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- gear shaft.
- Dismantling the steering rack and also cleaning the parts.
- Replacing defective parts of the device with new parts.
- Complete diagnostics of the gear shaft of the mechanism.
Before repairing, you must have on hand new parts for the steering rack (mechanism bushing, oil seals, ring seals, etc.).
- Raise the car with a jack or drive it into a hole.
- Remove the steering rack heat shield.
- Next, carefully unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Unfasten the rail and pull it out.
1. Unscrew the rail from the steering rods with a flat screwdriver.
2. Next, you need to unscrew the plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Next, you need to remove the lower oil seal.
6. Pull out the locking pin by tapping.
7. Now turn the retaining plug and remove the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side, and also remove the plastic bushing and the oil seal from it.
9. Remove the plug and gland, hold-down mechanism and spring.
Now you need to wash all parts from dirt and oil, and also check all parts for damage. If there are any, replace them. If there is severe damage on the surface of the steering rack and pinion of the toothed shaft, then the entire mechanism is usually replaced.
1. Lubricate the oil seal with special grease and carefully place the inner oil seal in the desired place (put through the right side with the spring down).
2. Install the rail into the housing.
3. Put a plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate the parts with grease and install the oil seal in the desired place (you can push it).
4. Now it is necessary to install and secure the plug with the locking wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. In the middle position, you must install the steering rack.
7. Lubricate the gear shaft seal with grease and place it in the seat.
8. Carefully insert the upper gland into place and install the circlip.
9. Install the lower retaining nut, bearing, and plug.
10. Next, install the hold-down device, spring, plug.
Now you need to install the rail on the car in reverse order.
The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient.Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads. This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of the steering rack.
The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.
Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.
The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir is dropping.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate wear on the steering rack, so before repairing you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.
For vehicles with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be a failure of the electric motor, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.
Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?
On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the backlash is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rail of a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Install the front part of the car on supports, remove the wheels.
Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the heat shield of the rail.
For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).
Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.
Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).
Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the rack rack.
Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack
Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear. Pay particular attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.
Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.
There should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scoring. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through
Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.
Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster locknut.
Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.
Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with power steering).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.
Advice: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.
After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:
The knocking and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, holds the road confidently.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment at a car service or yourself.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
Video (click to play). |
The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.