In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a steering rack on a hover from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Great Wall Hover 中国 精神 ›Logbook› Steering rack repair. Comparison of NOT original and ORIGINAL. Part 1
Good day to all.
The story will focus on the experience of operating 2 rails. shout and do not shout.
looking ahead I will say that if the rake is dead, then it is better to change it to ORI)))
Let's go.
A couple of years ago, I changed the original rail to do not yell, due to the fact that yelling was somehow spinning tightly, there is something to compare with, there are 2 hovers in the family). (the pump also pops up and no difference)
Was bought on the Internet, do not shout and successfully implemented)
She traveled with me safely for about a year, and then it started 🙂 the spool pin broke off, by trial and error, cut it off a couple more times, the required metal was found and the pin was turned and the problem was eliminated.
rode for another year and we started flowing ...
Photo of 2 rails, as they say, find 10 differences)))):
Now let's talk about the original
The original is very easy to disassemble, the bracket is hooked up and unscrewed counterclockwise
Well, to be continued in the second part ... TYTS
Hello everyone. Today I crawled under the wheel and tugged at the steering shaft, which was recently changed to me, and that's what is not clear, it loosens back and forth around its axis by hand. Should it have a free wheel or not? Maybe because of this, the car does not hold the road ?
There is a tough connection. if, when turning behind the steering shaft, with the car running, the wheels with the steering wheel stand still, it means that something is wrong.
Post has been edited by mrV: 04 May 2015 - 06:14
there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000
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Video (click to play). |
Do not wait for "exact" advice - you need to feel, - there are many options.
there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000
Easy to adjust. The main thing is not to overtighten when tightening the locknut.
"Murzilka with pictures" here:
there was a knock on the steering rack on the left, how can I tighten the steering rod? Or is it all the replacement or repair of the entire rail? mileage 82000
Guys - don't just write it! - maybe the tips are loose, maybe the rods, or maybe the rail! (and maybe levers and ball).
tips are normal. The rod knocks in the rail, how can I tighten it?
tips are normal. The rod knocks in the rail, how can I tighten it?
Gee, I'll have to repeat. by adjusting the rail.
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic41634s0.html?p=808159&#entry808159
People, and who knows the thread - what kind of lubricant is inside the rail? I mean not the part where the power steering fluid is, but the part where the "worm" itself is. What the same grease should be there anyway! I think to loosen the rail a little, otherwise the steering wheel goes a little too hard, I myself do it.
What do we have - I don't know, but in general they smeared FIOL before, - such garbage, it looks like a blue mobile.
What do we have - I don't know, but in general they smeared FIOL before, - such garbage, it looks like a blue mobile.
In fact, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is 158.
In fact, the fiol is not blue, it looks more like graphite. And the blue one is 158.
Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don’t understand anything anymore!
As in his previous message and said - increased effort on the steering wheel, with a slight backlash (5-8 °)!
- backlash is constantly present, the effort on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although it is still increased, when the engine compartment is fully warmed up, the effort increases;
- the steering rack is relatively new (I ran 10 thousand, well, 12.), but this effect (ALMOST in its full manifestation) was noticed immediately after its installation;
- the lower cardan was changed (he was almost killed), the upper one was completely “alive”, without any comments;
- yesterday I PULLED (!) (And did not loosen, as I thought at first to do) the rail by about 2/3 of a turn, with the help of a bolt 24 - was really not enough. I say right away - I did NOT pull it, I could even hold out, but I didn’t, because I didn’t. the effort on the steering wheel will then increase even more;
- the power steering fluid has already been changed 2 times, and the last time it was VERY successful, now it is clean and transparent in the system;
- there are no extraneous sounds / noises / knocks in the steering wheel!
WHAT ELSE COULD BE ?!
It's just that at speed, especially on long journeys, it is very stressful to constantly “steer hard”, and even with backlash! After an hour or two, it already starts to exhaust.
Maybe the second bolt on the steering rack, below the rack along the axis of the steering shaft, has something to do with the adjustment? Or is he just like a stub there?
Or maybe there is some kind of airlock in the system, which gives a backlash? (Then why the steering wheel is “heavy” and there are no extraneous sounds?)
Or put more grease into the steering bevel gear.
(Hover H5, gasoline)
"I ask the audience for help!"
Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015
Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015But I did not touch the rail, I don’t understand.
The main thing is, why did it change?
I advise you to remove the filter from the power steering tank (two latches are picked up with a flat screwdriver and pulled out) and wipe it off at turns, is there oil moving from one hose to another?
Is it fun or just barely?
For one thing and inspect the filter, there is nothing superfluous on it?
Guys, well, tell me - who thinks what. I don’t understand anything anymore!
As in his previous message and said - [b] increased.
Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015
it was exactly the same only on
And what exactly happened and why, the main thing?
Can be more ?
Alexander2120 27 Jun 2015
The link describes everything, I did not disassemble my worm
It describes what you replaced and everything is fine now, but what happened, why and can you disassemble the worm - no (
But you answered the question IMHO - change the rail or look for a block with a worm.
- backlash is constantly present, the effort on a completely cold car (engine compartment) is tolerable, although it is still increased, when the engine compartment is fully warmed up, the effort increases; - the steering rack is relatively new (10 thousand ran, well, 12.), but this effect ( ALMOST in full real manifestation) noticed immediately after its installation
Interestingly, but m. a worm of the wrong worm?
for example Н2 is not interchangeable with Н3-5?
Many owners have a question how to remove the backlash of the 2007 Great Hover steering wheel. (diesel)? This effect is due to a malfunction in the steering. As you know, this node is not only an integral part of the vehicle, but also one of the frontiers of traffic safety. So, in the event of the slightest malfunctions, it is necessary to eliminate them.
How to remove the backlash of the steering wheel in 2007 Great Hover (diesel)? It is assumed that there is a standard steering clearance that is required for correct operation of the steering rack. But how can you determine that the steering wheel play is higher than normal? The standard clearance should be 5 degrees for all 360 degrees of rotation.
To measure, you need a ruler. It rests against the dashboard with one end, and with the other it comes into contact with the steering wheel circumference. In this case, the wheels must stand exactly straight. The steering wheel turns until the wheels start turning. From the center mark to the wheel turning mark, there will be a backlash, which must be calculated in degrees. If it is more than 5 degrees, then it is worth looking for faults.
On Great Hover 2007 there may be a backlash in the steering mechanism for the following reasons:
- Loose steering column mountings.
- Crosspiece wear.
- Failure of steering rods.
- Steering rack wear and tear.
All these reasons can be the reasons for the appearance of a backlash in the steering mechanism.
To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to carry out a comprehensive diagnostics.So, to determine which particular element is out of order, it is necessary to diagnose the elements in stages.
If everything worked out, then you need to reinstall the steering rack and test it for performance. In some cases, it may be necessary to make wheel alignment, but as practice shows, for any manipulations associated with steering, this procedure is done.
Experts and auto repairmen recommend that if a backlash in the steering mechanism occurs, it is necessary to contact a car service as soon as possible, where they will quickly find the cause and be able to eliminate it efficiently. Of course, this procedure is not cheap, and sometimes it turns out that the cost can reach several tens of thousands of rubles, but you cannot play and delay, because security is more expensive.
It is also worth noting that some motorists at car services are deceived by inventing malfunctions that do not exist. So, when arriving at a car service, it is necessary to monitor the work of the craftsmen, since this is in the interests of the owners themselves.
It is quite difficult to determine the malfunction of the steering mechanism, since certain knowledge is required in the design of the car and the system of operation. But with a strong desire, you can identify the failed elements, carry out diagnostics and repairs with your own hands.
Contacting a car service is an extreme case, since steering play most often occurs when the steering rods are malfunctioning. The signs of this breakdown are quite simple - the car starts to pull to one side. How to remove the backlash of the steering wheel in 2007 Great Hover (diesel) - the answer is received in this article. It is worth considering the fact that everything does not always end tragically, by replacing the steering rack. Often the reason lies in simple elements that fail more often than others.
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- Aleksey.Semenihin
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Hello to all! need help! drip oil seal on the steering rack (left), I can not find either the catalog number, or the dimensions, or the repair kit! Maybe there is some kind of analogue? And then replacing this unit will be a pretty penny!
- Toydarian
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Here: my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3333/forum/topic18115.html
Theoretically, an oil seal F-00811 with the following dimensions may be suitable: 27 * 38 * 6.5. It costs 500 rubles.
- Aleksey.Semenihin
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That is, oil seals measuring 27 * 38 * 7? in principle, you can try to pick up! again, homemade with rings, but you can't buy a ready-made repair kit?
- Toydarian
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in principle, you can try to pick up!
Look for motorcycle shops (services) (for example, on Rodionova street near the Avtomod store).
Can't buy a ready-made repair kit?
Everything is complicated with repair kits. Each rail has its own repair kit. What is your rake?
- Aleksey.Semenihin
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I don’t know what kind of rake I have!
- Toydarian
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- Model: GW Hover H3 WITHOUT CHIP.
- Registered: 24-01-13
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- Aleksey.Semenihin
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looked, but that, it is scary to buy suddenly will not work!
- urkagancik
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Good evening! I know firsthand about the rails. I changed it myself twice, but it’s true on Taz, once I got into the service of a competent locksmith, so he said that an overworked rail never goes away for a long time and as far as the devil knows it. Then he said that if you change (no matter where, by yourself or in the service), put a new one, and not after the restoration. Like this. Now the question arose on the hover, I will order a new one in the store. Expensive, but hopefully it fits.
Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.
Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)
We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:
We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:
IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.
We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).
Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.
But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides
We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.
After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:
We remove and carry to the workbench
Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.
2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.
3) Remove the intermediate shaft.
4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)
5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.
6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.
7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key
8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.
9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside along the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)
10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.
11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.
12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.
13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.
14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.
Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. ) 
For left hand drive
Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.
15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.
16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.
17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)
Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
- there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
- increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
- there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
- there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
- power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
- toothed shaft;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
- Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
- Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
- Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.
- Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
- Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
- Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
- Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
- Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
- Pull out the lower oil seal.
- Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
- Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
- Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
- Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
- Place the rail into the enclosure.
- Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
- Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Place the steering rack in the middle position.
- Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
- Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
- Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
- Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
If you want to book a steering rack repair for Great Wall Hover, you need to:
1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.
The PEEK Repair Center specializes in this type of car service, such as diagnostics, maintenance and repair of steering racks and gearboxes, power steering and power steering pumps Great Wall Hover.
The scope of services of our specialized automotive service includes:
- Diagnostics of steering racks and chassis of the Great Wall Hover car;
- Maintenance;
- Complete replacement of transmission fluid;
- Restoration of steering racks, restoration of power steering Great Wall Hover;
- Sale of remanufactured steering racks and power steering;
- Replacement of gearboxes and racks on the Great Wall Hover car.
The technicians also repair steering racks on other Great Wall car models - Great Wall Deep, Great Wall SUV, Great Wall Safe-F1, Great Wall Sailor, Great Wall Deer G3, etc.
During the repair, we completely disassemble the steering rack, carry out its fault detection. We replace the worn out and damaged units and parts with new ones. After checking the performance of the rail at a special stand, checking the compliance of all technical data, we return it to the owner.
Here you can order repair of a steering rack for Great Wall Hover with removal and installation on your car. Or just bring us the already removed steering rack.
To answer the question and solve the problem of how to remove the steering play on the 2007 Great Wall Hover (diesel), preferably as soon as possible. The steering wheel and everything connected with it is a vital unit when driving on the road, as well as the condition of the brakes or the engine. It is better not to wait until a rather difficult situation comes across - the car must obey the steering wheel immediately and instantly. And with excess play, you can turn the steering wheel until you hit a car on the road, a post or a tree. And even without emergency situations, a bad luck with backlash can notably fray your nerves - both for you and those around you.
How to remove steering play on a 2007 Great Wall Hover diesel? You need to start by checking it. Do not forget that free scrolling (stroke) of the steering wheel is inherent in the design. Before the wheels start turning, the steering wheel spins a little. Not that it was absolutely necessary - on the contrary, the less the backlash, the better (different models are considered to have different values). It's just that the entire steering gear is not a single whole; it consists of individual nodes, between which there are gaps. Due to them, a fairly free cranking appears. The task is to check how big it is and to reduce it as much as possible.
The easiest way is to measure the backlash of the steering wheel on the subject, whether it complies with the standards, it will require only one ruler. The wheels are set to the forward driving position. One end of the ruler rests against the torpedo, and its edge is in contact with the outer circumference of the steering wheel.
The steering wheel turns to either side until the wheel starts turning. In this place, a mark is made on the steering wheel with chalk, tape or wire. Now the steering wheel turns in the opposite direction, again until the wheels react. The ruler position is marked again.
The distance between the marks is measured and the backlash is calculated using the formula: L = (5 ° / 360 °) pD. Here D is the outer diameter of the steering wheel and p = 3.14. L - the resulting backlash - should not be more than 17 millimeters. If it exceeds this figure, measures must be taken.
The increased free wheel travel on the Great Wall Hover is a phenomenon that some car owners complain about. This disease can be attributed to several factors.
- The fastening of the steering wheel itself is loose... Checked by swinging the steering wheel towards yourself; eliminated by tightening the corresponding bolts;
- The crosspiece is worn outlocated near the bevel gear. Replacement is possible by your own efforts, and the part is not so expensive;
- Increased gaps between the ball joints of the drive. To check, you will need a partner: while one turns the steering wheel back and forth, the second by touch, listens to the thrust head and the lever head with his fingers.
This problem is solved by tightening the screw plug. It is screwed in until it stops, after which it is released by a quarter of a turn - until the groove in the plug coincides with the hole for the cotter pin in the hinges.
The steering tips are out of order. To change them, you need a pit and half of the front end parsing. If you have the first and consent to the second, you can handle it yourself. But in most cases (especially if the car is worn, and its parts have become attached to each other), people prefer to get to the service station.
The most extreme case is the deterioration of the steering rack (see the article on how to check it).Here you can't do with amateur performances, you have to go to the service. And you won't be able to save on details. Above all else, the steering gear is a delicate matter. Improper assembly can cause it to wedge right along the way. It is better for amateur auto mechanics who are not confident in themselves to limit themselves only to checking the backlash and then adjusting it already at a car service.
Even if you do not know how to remove steering play on a 2007 Great Wall Hover (diesel), or you cannot do it on your own, you should at least be able to check it and, in any case, regularly listen to the steering mechanism of your car. It so happens that the backlash is quite acceptable and according to the measured indicators is the norm. And the driver thinks that this is not very good.
* Since we're talking about Chinese cars, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some test drives:
- IF Concept (copy of BMW X6);
- Test drive Changan CS35;
- Test drive Geely MK Cross;
- Geely Emgrand X7.
Is this so, take our word for it? After all, if there are nuts, are they intended for something? And then, if you forget about the warning signs, over time, for sure, you will have to specifically go out to serious repairs, which could have been avoided with the help of the usual control over the backlash.
Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack.
Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.
- there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
- the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
- when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
- power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
- unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.
Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.
A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.
This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.
- Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
- Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
- Remove the lower oil seal
- Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
- Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
- Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.
- Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
- Place the rail in the housing.
- Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
- Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
- Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
- Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
- Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.
Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.
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Video (click to play). |
As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.
