In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack on the Prado 95 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
One of the problematic units of the toyota land cruiser prado is the steering rack (the common name for the steering mechanism). It is poorly protected from the side of the steering tips, it is quite often possible to observe leaks of working fluid, especially from the side of the steering gear (control gear).
But despite all the negative points, the Prado 90 steering rack is repairable, and in case of sufficiently large wear of its elements, it will not be difficult to find an inexpensive copy during disassembly.
First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection of the rail for any leaks, after which we unscrew the cover of the power steering barrel and check the level of the working fluid and its purity. If the fluid has a cloudy brown-gray color, then the steering rack needs repair.
Also, there is often a discharge of working fluid into the anthers of the steering rods as a result of the wear of the oil seals, and visually leaks of fluid on the anthers can not be observed.
How the malfunction can manifest itself:
- when turning the steering wheel, failures are felt in the work of the power steering;
- possible noises similar to grinding;
- not uniform work of the power steering, knocking may appear.
Before you start repairing the steering rack, you need to stock up on spare parts and power steering fluid in the amount of 1 liter.
For the steering rack, a special repair kit is sold, which includes all oil seals, internal fluoroplastic bushings, rings, washers.
Removing the steering rack must be done after draining the power steering fluid, how to do this can be read here.
 |
Video (click to play). |
Before disassembling the steering gear, it is necessary to make notches on the housing and the cover of the guide, which tightens the steering rack, this must be done in order not to overtighten the adjusting nut during assembly.
We unscrew the cover of the guide rail with a locking lock nut and take out the guide with a spring.
Remove the control valve body by unscrewing two bolts, pull out the control valve and change all rings, bushings and an oil seal.
We remove the clamps for fastening the anthers of the steering rods, we take the anthers to the steering tips.
We unscrew the tip of the rail, having previously unbent the locked washer.
Using a gas wrench and a special puller made from a pipe, we unscrew the cover of the guide rail, take out the steering rack itself and remove the old inner oil seal.
We check the rail for wear (tears, ruts, rust), if there is no strong development in the working surface (where the oil seal goes), you can use this rail in the future. If, however, there is serious damage, it is necessary to replace it, although in some cases it helps to restore it by spraying metal with subsequent grinding.
We change all cuffs, rings, washers and oil seals, assemble the steering gear in reverse order.
Next, we install the steering rack on the car, fill in a new power steering fluid (dextron) and pump it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times, with slight delays at the end.
If for some reason you have not made a notch on the adjusting nut, you must fully tighten, then loosen the adjusting nut a quarter of a turn and lock the locknut. After we check the operation of the power steering, if the steering wheel rotates with strong effort, the adjusting nut must be slightly loosened.
It is important not to overtighten the rail!
- Auto: Toyota Prado - 95
- Name: Samat
- City: Aktobe
- Auto: Land Cruiser 4.7
- Name: Oleg
- Gender: Male
- City: Kiev, Obolon
- Auto: No
- Name: No
- Gender: Male
- City: Kiev
- Auto: TLC 120 (1GR), Jimny (M13A)
- Name: Mascot
- Gender: Woman
- City: Kiev
Once I was looking for myself. Here are the codes for the repair kits:
Toyota 04455-35130 Steering rack repair kit 234 hry.
Toyota 04445-35160 Repair kit for steering rack gaskets 454 hry.
Post has been edited mascot: 13 July 2010 - 11:42
- Auto: Opel Monterey 10%, 90% TLC Prado
- Name: Sergei
- Gender: Male
- Auto: TOYOTA LC Prado 95 3.4 AT 2000
- Name: Victor
- City: Brovary
- Auto: TLC-90PRADO
- Name: Andrey
- Gender: Male
the complete original kit contains everything. bushings and oil seals. There is no smell of rubber rings there - initially there is fluoroplastic.
Really work, in the presence of a hole - 4 hours. everything is simple. the main thing is to set marks on the distributor, steering shaft and rack before removing. fix the steering wheel securely. After removing the rail, wash everything thoroughly. conditions must be practically sterile. Before installing the shaft, wrap it with electrical tape so that when installing with sharp edges, do not damage the new oil seals. Then you will take off the electrical tape. The reason for the dripping of the rail is that the anthers are most likely leaky and moisture and dirt have got there. The anthers are necessarily new (and only original) with normal metal clamps.
The anthers are not included in the repair kit - you must order them separately.
WILL SOON REQUIRE A LINK TO THE ORIGINAL SOURCE. BUT IN GENERAL, IT'S REALLY NOTHING TO DO THERE AND FOR FOUR HOURS IS CURVED DIKO. repair kit - $ 60 oil - $ 10 collapse - $ 30 and work for a maximum of UAH 500. those who do not mind the money - pay 2000 UAH. But my friends, believe me, this is not the ceiling yet, near the Kharkov highway businessmen once broke $ 750 for this procedure. I THINK DAYS WERE VERY NEEDED
Yes, a knock on an inversion due to a broken pressure roller, I know how to treat it (well, this, if it's really a pity for $ 50), but I advise you to buy a new one
This article is devoted to the steering unit of the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120, in particular, the Prado 120 steering rack, its design, signs of malfunctions and repair of the Prado 120 rack are considered.
The device of the Prado 120 rack differs little from the racks of other cars equipped with hydraulic power steering.
- The Prado 120 rail consists of several parts, namely:
- Carter - made of light alloy, inside it is hollow and covered with a cover.
- Drive Gear - Installed in the crankcase.
- Bearings - Essential for smooth gear running.
- Toothed bar - interacts with the gear, ensures the movement of the shaft in one direction or another.
- Springs - provide a snug fit of the strap to the gear wheel, preventing backlash.
- Stop ring - Provides shaft travel within the desired range.
There are times when this knot "crumbles" earlier, but this is more an exception than a rule, and is directly related to extreme operating conditions.
Repair of the Prado 120 steering rack is a costly event, both in time and in money. To prevent this from happening prematurely, you need to know what factors affect the wear of parts:
- Regularly hitting high curbs, stones and other obstacles, hitting the front wheels in pits and potholes at high speed.
- Sharp accelerations with the wheels turned to the extreme position.
- Torn oil seals were not replaced in time, due to which water and dirt got into the rack housing.
Consider symptoms that indicate problems with the Prado steering rack.
The most common breakdown is a power steering fluid leak from the rack. Indicates a violation of the integrity of the O-rings or oil seals. You can check this by looking under the hood.
When driving on a flat road, the car "floats", you have to steer in order for it to go straight. This may indicate a failure of the silent blocks on which the rail is attached.
If the car stands still, and a knock is heard when the steering wheel is turned, this indicates that the internal mechanisms of the rail are worn out. But such a conclusion can be made only if the tips and tie rods are in good condition, and the car engine is running.
When driving on uneven roads, the steering wheel vibrates and a knock is heard from under the hood.
Steering wheel play. Also, when you turn the steering wheel, it does not return to its original position in normal mode.
Repair of the Prado 120 steering rack is carried out only after qualified diagnostics at the service station and identifying parts that require replacement. The foreman will check for fluid leaks, dents on the body, corrosion, shaft deformation and other mechanical damage. Mechanical damage is detected visually, the presence of leaks by supplying high pressure to the hydraulic system.
- Regardless of the condition, the oil seals and O-rings change.
- Defective parts (eg shafts) are repaired or replaced.
- Non-repairable parts are replaced with original ones.
- The steering rack shaft is cleaned from corrosion.
- Checking the balance of the shaft.
- Flushing the power steering system.
- If it is impossible to make repairs, a complete replacement of the Prado rail is carried out.
- Bleeding the hydraulic system, adjusting and re-diagnosing the unit.
- Replacement of tie rods and tips if necessary.
- Camber-toe adjustment.
Like all cars, the Prado has sores. Speaking specifically about the rail, the weak point is the silent blocks with which it is attached. The problem is that the factory silent block is very weak for such a heavy machine. The thickness of the rubber on it is only 2 millimeters, which negatively affects the durability. A competent master will always advise you to change them to reinforced ones, which will help to avoid problems in the future, since the price of the issue is low.
Summing up, it is worth noting that replacing or repairing the Prado 120 steering wheel is not cheap! But if the slightest signs of a malfunction of this unit appear, you should not postpone a visit to the car service. Firstly, it is fraught with even more large-scale repair of the unit with high financial investments. Secondly, the serviceability of the steering mechanisms is the safety of you and those around you, and this is not the case when risk is a noble cause!
And in order for the rake to serve you faithfully for many years, you must follow a number of rules:
- Drive deep holes and high curbs at minimum speed.
- Try to twist the steering wheel to the extreme position as little as possible - this harms the rail and the power steering pump.
- Before driving on a frosty day, swing the steering wheel from side to side to warm up the fluid in the system. This must be done with the engine running.
- Regularly check the condition of the boots on the steering rods; in case of damage, do not tighten with replacement.
Finally, we wish you good luck on the road and hope that these simple tips will save your car from breakdowns!
If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Toyota Prado, you need to:
1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.
If you hear an extraneous sound that the power steering pump emits, then you need to urgently check the operation of the pump and the steering rack. Transmission fluid leakage is another telltale sign. If the steering wheel "does not listen" to the driver when cornering, this also indicates a breakdown in the steering rack.
In all these cases, you need to contact a car service for diagnostics. Our PEEK Repair Center in Moscow offers services for the diagnosis, replacement and repair of steering racks for Toyota Prado and other cars.
We have over 10 years of experience in steering rack repair. Experience, knowledge, professional equipment for diagnostics and repair, high-quality certified parts - all this allows us to provide our clients with the longest guarantees for our work.
We use the most modern tools and repair kits to repair the rails.Replacing the steering rack with a Toyota Prado is less preferable for most car owners, since the price of the steering rack is quite high.
Therefore, our craftsmen do their best to make the repair of the rail a good result. After our work, the performance of the rail is restored by almost 90-100%.
author Petr-panda from the Pradow Forum
Do you have a wet rail?
Do you have an irresistible desire to do something and 12 hours of free time?Then we go to you….
A short essay on the topic: "Replacement of oil seals on the steering rack TLK Prado 90, 1KZTE"
Initial data: Prado 90, 1 KZTE, leak from the upper stuffing box, from under the boot
SO! Armed with the experience of two teammates - Serena and Ivan63, Instructions from our and friendly websites, the necessary spare parts, keys (the main thing is the gas one), Ivan's lift, And most importantly, with his invaluable direct help, the blessing of my wife and daughter, I came to the rail bulkhead. At 13-00, being left alone with the lift, the car and the "crying" rail, I began to disassemble.
He lifted the car, took off the wheels, TIED THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE INTERIOR.
General view of the rail, etc. from the rear axle 
The place where it was flowing, above the distributor, is a black flat elastic band:
We unfasten the tip of the steering rods: remove the stopper with a screwdriver, unscrew the fastening nut, dismantle the tip with a puller:
The next number of our program is the adapter block from the steering shaft to the distributor shank. Two bolts with a head for 12,. I turned away calmly, but of course all connections, for a start, were spilled with penetrating grease, VD-40: 
The place where it was flowing, above the distributor, is a black flat elastic band:
We unfasten the tip of the steering rods: remove the stopper with a screwdriver, unscrew the fastening nut, dismantle the tip with a puller:
The next number of our program is the adapter block from the steering shaft to the distributor shank. Two bolts with a head for 12.
If anyone else succeeds, it is better to move this unit up along the splines, disengage it from the shank of the worm (the plane of the connector sticks out of the rail, the plane of the connector is in the area of the lower bolt), move the shaft to the side and remove the entire unit from the shaft with a jerk downward, then it will be easier and more convenient. I could not get.
After that, we unscrew the nuts and bolts of the rack housing (everything where the silent blocks are). On the horizontal, both the bolt and the nut are spinning; twist where you want.
Clamp on the right - lower nut, upper bolt, twist from the side of the rail.
Vertical s / b - the bolt rotates, inserted from above, I got it in front of the rail, the nut is welded.
All these unscrews took me about 1.5 hours of neat, unhurried work. At this, the smooth course of the repair took a time out. When I unscrewed the fasteners from / blocks, the rail became movable, now it became possible to move it back by 7-8 cm, without pulling it off the bolts at all. When I moved the rail, then, as my teammates said, poor access appeared, but access to two pipes suitable for the distributor. The system is like a brake system, a tube with a flange is stuck into the body, the nut rotates around the tube, presses it.
Tools: GAS wrench, you may not need it, but let it be
Split for 17, open for 17.
The closest tube to the left wheel: I pulled off the nut with an open-end wrench, since there was no split one yet (and he did not help). No matter how he poured or soaked, the tube in the nut did not move, but the tube began to slip at the junction with the rubber hose (a little further from the rail). Using this, so as not to torsion the rubber hose, he unscrewed the first nut. Half a liter of Dextron merged. Or substitute something or wash or be absorbed
The farthest tube from the left wheel: The same scheme, but there is no joint with the rubber wheel, so slippage is possible only with the nut-tube. BUT, I could not pull off the nut. Hush the edges, poured out a bunch of liquids, and NOTHING.
By this time, about an hour and a half of stupid attempts, Ivan drove up, and with a brand new gas wrench we brought this nut off the spot.Damn, without gas, I won't even change the wheels now)).
The pipes were turned off, the rail was removed:
The bulkhead process is more interesting than challenging. All connections are turned off, removed. Although it may be because Ivan63 already ate the dog first on his rail, and I only had time to photograph?
Next: Clamp the rail in a vice. Loosen the tie rod boot clamps, move it.
Unbend the color-coded retainer, unscrew the steering rod
Similarly, turn off the steering rod on the other side
We turn off the pipes from the distributor, from the other end these pipes can not be touched
They turned off the tubes, IMPORTANT MOMENT. DO NOT rub the bronze "washers"
We unscrew the two bolts securing the distributor housing:
Unscrew the pinch roller:
We take out the distributor from the rail housing
On the reverse side of the rail housing from the distributor, we unscrew the nut using the widely used and beloved by all gas wrench
The rail itself is free. An oil seal is visible, which stands directly next to the nut. This is the first of two oil seals directly to the rail
Now we take out the second oil seal, it stands in the rail housing, inserted from the side opposite to the distributor. A washer and an oil seal are placed all the way. Accordingly, a "special key" is taken
(it can be obtained with a head of 27, approximately the same outer diameter) and from the side of the distributor, we rest against the washer and knock out the oil seal together with the washer.
Next, we take the distributor itself. I have not removed the transition unit of the steering shaft and the worm shank: We remove it:
To disassemble the distributor, a "special key" is required again, but this time a different one. The worm is fixed with a nut with an internal octagon. So you need to turn it off with a "special key"
View from above
"Key" in person "turned from a pipe"
Here it is a nut with an oil seal inside
Then we knock out the oil seal and the bearing from the distributor housing. I got dextron splashing up through this stuffing box.
And also from a nut with an internal octagon:
After disassembly, new oil seals are pressed in and everything is assembled in the reverse order.
We wrap the teeth of the rack, for example, with electrical tape. We put on the rail a new oil seal (No. 2 for dismantling) and a washer, which were knocked out with the first "Special Key"
After we put on the oil seal, remove the electrical tape, insert the rail and drive the oil seal into the body with it. After that, we put on the second oil seal and wrap the nut
Screw in the pressure roller.
We grease abundantly all places where there is no dextron: The distributor worm itself and the area of the rack teeth, the ends of the rack after the oil seals, which are in operation under the anthers
We screw the tubes to the distributor and that's it, the rail is assembled
After the rail is assembled, we carry it back to the car, insert the bolts of its fastening in place, but we do not tighten anything, since, in my opinion, the most interesting thing begins: This is to screw back the pipes from the pump that fit the distributor, or where they come from there ... Now emotions have already dulled a little, but we spent about two hours on this, excuse the "crap". They do not want to cling to the thread and that's it. Somehow, changing the angle of the entrance, scrolling-scrolling-scrolling ... .. still managed to screw them back. After that, the knot for joining the shank and the steering shaft is put on. This node rises up the splines and everything fits together. If it does not rise: soak VD-40 and work it out !! We fix the rail, we stretch all the connections.
After that, we fill in dextron, the car is on a lift, we start and turn the steering wheel. The level is gone - we turn it off right there so that the power steering pump does not run dry. Top up, start up, turn off. Together - very comfortable. When the level has stabilized, you can climb under the car, admire the dry rack, put the wheels on and lower the car.
Conclusion: It took 12 hours, as I wrote, to complete everything.I will lay out the list of replaced oil seals later, the cunning "type" paronite or caprolon rings did not change, due to an unobvious necessity. After sea trials, it turned out that I still did not get into the neutral position of the steering wheel, although I was tying. But this can be adjusted: loosen the joint of the steering shaft, raise it and correct the position of the worm by a few teeth. The pressure roller can be slightly overtightened, the steering wheel does not fully return. This is also fixable. In general, I am very pleased. At the moment, I ran 2000 km with a "new" rail, everything is dry, I am not adding anything.
Thank you all for your attention.
Thanks to Ivan63 for his help, garage, lift. Serena for the advice. 🙂
Good luck on the road!
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Thank you, comrade Kotovsky! Think he only sweats? - there are no oil stains in the yard on the paving stones or in the garage!
Just about yesterday, a hundred said that the Prado has a chronic disease and, like, you can solve it by completely replacing the original rail, I already sat down so as not to fall! didn't even bother asking how much it would cost me and left like a zombie.
But do not tell me where the adjusting bolt is located and will I harm the system by pulling up?! Can anyone have a photo report? or a precise description.
Thank you very much. Best regards from Kazakhstan.
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Hey!
A month has passed and the steering wheel has become lighter, but still weakly returns to the straight line! But most importantly, there was a knock on the comb in the steering wheel, before it was completely invisible! Where does it come from? These specialists have done it, apparently. Now what to do with the knock? Moreover, there was a big backlash in the steering wheel!
Enrolled in a branded Toyota service. I ordered it again, but through them a repair kit for the rail and shock absorber cushions (they were worn out in the diagnostics), as well as the gearbox gaskets, belts, rollers. Somewhere in the middle of February I will drive in, as the spare parts arrive. They are right that they grumbled: - they say, chasing the untested hundred for cheapness, then we get even more problems and now they have to try to improve the situation. They promise what can be done. Overhauling the rack, replacing oil seals, checking the geometry, belts, lubricating the crosspieces, cleaning the brake pads, cleaning the gas tank and fuel system - all this will cost one thing for American women! Truly now the thought is gnawing that a miser pays twice! But let's see if the most important problem with the steering wheel can be eliminated !?
By the way, about the collapse .. after replacing the steering tips, the steering wheel came out of a hundred by 45 degrees incorrect, at the collapse it was simply unscrewed and set correctly, but it seems to me that this should not be so, because the turning radius itself is violated! When, for example, I twist the steering wheel to the end, even that crunches from the right wheel.Mlya specialists gr ***** s! What do you think?
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TLC9x Steering gear rack restoration, replacement of silent blocks, tips, etc. 
#1 Petrovich
Post has been edited by Petrovich: 09 April 2008 - 23:38
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how there was backlash. Said it's not fatal yet
but you have to do it. At another hundred, they also told me that you can already do, but you can still be patient.
I was told about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
it was leaking then, but now it has stopped
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how there was backlash. Said it's not fatal yet
but you have to do it. At another hundred, they also told me that you can already do, but you can still be patient.
I was told about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
it was leaking then, but now it has stopped
#8 U.G.N.
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- TLC Prado KZJ95W 1KZ-TE
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how there was backlash. Said it's not fatal yet
but you have to do it. At another hundred, they also told me that you can already do, but you can still be patient.
I was told about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
it was leaking then, but now it has stopped
|
Video (click to play). |
IMHO Fidel does not understand steering racks, he told me the same thing and showed the same thing, like look how she dangles from you. Six months have passed since then and nothing has happened to the steering wheel, the steering wheel also knocks on the comb when it turns it strongly, but according to various reviews, this happens for everyone on 90/95 pradics. Because the steering is not new, perhaps there are some deviations, not such as to repair it for such money. It is not yet known how the repair could end. I wouldn't touch anything.
