In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair on the Prado 95 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
One of the problematic units of the toyota land cruiser prado is the steering rack (the common name for the steering mechanism). It is poorly protected from the side of the steering tips, quite often smudges of the working fluid can be observed, especially from the side of the steering gear (control gear).
But despite all the negative points, the Prado 90 steering rack is maintainable, and in the event of a sufficiently large wear of its elements, it will not be difficult to find an inexpensive copy during disassembly.
First of all, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection of the rail for leaks, after which we unscrew the cover of the power steering barrel and check the level of the working fluid and its purity. If the fluid has a cloudy brown-gray color, then the steering rack needs repair.
Also, there is often a release of the working fluid into the anthers of the steering rods as a result of the wear of the seals, and visually, fluid leaks on the anthers can not be observed.
How a malfunction can manifest itself:
- when turning the steering wheel, failures in the work of the power steering are felt;
- noises similar to a rattle are possible;
- uneven work of the power steering, a knock may appear.
Before you start repairing the steering rack, you need to stock up on spare parts and power steering fluid in a volume of 1 liter.
A special repair kit is sold for the steering rack, which includes all oil seals, internal fluoroplastic bushings, rings, washers.
Removing the steering rack must be done after draining the power steering fluid, you can read about how to do this here.
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Video (click to play). |
Before disassembling the steering mechanism, it is necessary to make notches on the body and the cover of the guide, which tightens the steering rack, this must be done in order not to overtighten the adjusting nut during assembly.
We unscrew the cover of the guide rail with the lock nut and take out the guide with the spring.
We remove the control valve body by unscrewing two bolts, pull out the control valve and change all rings, bushings and stuffing box.
We remove the clamps for fastening the anthers of the steering rods, we take the anthers to the steering tips.
We unscrew the tip of the rail, having previously unbent the locking washer.
Using a gas wrench and a special puller made of a pipe, we unscrew the cover of the guide rail, pull out the steering rack itself and remove the old inner oil seal.
We check the rail for wear (burrs, ruts, rust), if there is no strong wear in the working surface (where the oil seal goes), you can use this rail in the future. If, nevertheless, there are serious damages, it is necessary to replace it, although in some cases it helps to restore it by metal spraying followed by grinding.
We change all cuffs, rings, washers and seals, assemble the steering gear in reverse order.
Next, we install the steering rack on the car, fill in the new power steering fluid (dextron) and pump it by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and right several times, with slight delays at the end.
If for some reason you did not notch the adjusting nut, you must fully tighten it, then loosen the adjusting nut a quarter of a turn and fix the lock nut. After we check the operation of the power steering, if the steering wheel rotates with a strong effort, the adjusting nut must be slightly loosened.
It is important not to overtighten the rail!
- Auto: Toyota Prado-95
- Name: Samat
- City: Aktobe
- Auto: Land Cruiser 4.7
- Name: Oleg
- Gender: Male
- City: Kiev, Obolon
- Auto: No
- Name: No
- Gender: Male
- City: Kiev
- Auto: TLC 120 (1GR), Jimny (M13A)
- Name: Mascot
- Gender: Woman
- City: Kiev
I once searched for myself. Here are the kit codes:
Toyota 04455-35130 Steering rack repair kit 234 UAH
Toyota 04445-35160 Steering rack gasket repair kit 454 UAH
This post has been edited by mascot: 13 July 2010 – 11:42
- Auto: Opel Monterey10%, 90% TLC Prado
- Name: Sergei
- Gender: Male
- Auto: TOYOTA LC Prado 95 3.4AT 2000
- Name: Victor
- City: Brovary
- Auto: TLC-90PRADO
- Name: Andrey
- Gender: Male
Everything is included in the original repair kit. bushings and seals. There is no smell of any rubber rings - initially there is fluoroplastic.
Really work, in the presence of a pit - 4 hours. everything is simple. the main thing before removing is to set marks on the distributor, steering shaft and rack. fix the steering wheel securely. After removing the rail - wash everything thoroughly. conditions should be practically sterile. Before installing the shaft, wrap it with electrical tape so that when installing with sharp edges, do not damage the new oil seals. Then take off the tape. The reason for the drip of the rail is most likely the anthers were leaky and moisture and dirt got there. Anthers must be new (and only original) with normal metal clamps.
Anthers are not included in the repair kit - you order separately.
SOON I WILL DEMAND THE LINK TO THE ORIGINAL SOURCE. AND IN GENERAL REALLY THERE IS NOTHING TO DO AND FOUR HOURS ARE BENT WILDLY. repair kit - 60 USD oil - 10 USD collapse - 30 USD and work for a maximum of 500 UAH. who cares about money - pay 2000 UAH. But my friends, believe me, this is not the ceiling yet, near the Kharkov highway, businessmen at one time broke me 750 USD for this procedure. I THINK DEENGI WERE VERY NEEDED
Yes, there is a knock on the eversion due to a broken pressure roller, I know how to treat it (well, if it’s really a pity for $ 50), but I advise you to buy a new one
This article is devoted to the steering assembly of the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120 car, in particular, the Prado 120 steering rack, its design, signs of problems and repair of the Prado 120 rack are considered.
The Prado 120 rack device differs little from the racks of other cars equipped with a hydraulic power steering.
- Rail Prado 120 consists of several parts, namely:
- Crankcase - made of light alloy, inside it is hollow and closed with a cover.
- Drive gear - installed in the crankcase.
- Bearings are necessary for the smooth running of the gear.
- Gear bar - interacts with the gear, ensures the shaft moves in one direction or another.
- Springs - provide a snug fit of the strap to the gear, preventing backlash.
- Restrictive ring - provides the shaft travel in the desired range.
There are times when this node “crumbles” earlier, but this is more an exception than a rule, and is directly related to extreme operating conditions.
Prado 120 steering rack repair is a costly event, both in time and money. To prevent this from happening prematurely, you need to know what factors affect the wear of parts:
- Regular collisions with high curbs, stones and other obstacles, getting the front wheels into pits and potholes at high speed.
- Sharp accelerations with the wheels turned to the extreme position.
- Torn seals were not replaced in time, which caused water and dirt to get inside the rail housing.
Consider the symptoms that indicate problems with the Prado steering rack.
The most common failure is a power steering fluid leak from the rack. Indicates a violation of the integrity of the sealing rings or seals. You can check this by looking under the hood.
When driving on a flat road, the car “floats”, you have to steer so that it goes straight. This may indicate the failure of the silent blocks on which the rail is attached.
If the car is standing still, and when the steering wheel is turned, a knock is heard - this indicates the deterioration of the internal mechanisms of the rack. But such a conclusion can only be made on the condition that the tips and steering rods are in good condition, and the car engine is running.
When driving on rough roads, the steering wheel vibrates and a knock comes from under the hood.
Play in the steering wheel. Also, when turning the steering wheel, it does not return to its original position in normal mode.
Repair of the Prado 120 steering rack is carried out only after qualified diagnostics at the service station and the identification of parts that need to be replaced. The master will check for fluid leaks, dents on the body, corrosion, shaft deformation and other mechanical damage. Mechanical damage is detected visually, the presence of leaks by applying high pressure to the hydraulic system.
- Regardless of condition, seals and o-rings are changed.
- Defective parts (such as shafts) are repaired or replaced.
- Parts that cannot be repaired are replaced with original ones.
- The steering rack shaft is cleaned of corrosion.
- Shaft balance check.
- Flushing the power steering system.
- In case of impossibility to make repairs, a complete replacement of the Prado rail is carried out.
- Bleeding the hydraulic system, adjusting and re-diagnosing the unit.
- Replacement of steering rods and tips if necessary.
- Wheel alignment adjustment.
Like all cars, Prado has "sores". If we talk specifically about the rail, then the weak point is the silent blocks with which it is attached. The problem is that the factory silent block is very weak for such a heavy machine. The thickness of the rubber on it is only 2 millimeters, which negatively affects durability. A competent master will always advise you to change them to reinforced ones, which will help to avoid problems in the future, since the price of the issue is low.
Summing up, it is worth noting that replacing or repairing the Prado 120 steering wheel is not a cheap pleasure! But if there are the slightest signs of a malfunction of this node, you should not postpone a visit to a car service. Firstly, it is fraught with an even more extensive repair of the unit with high financial injections. Secondly, the serviceability of steering mechanisms is the safety of you and those around you, and this is not the case when risk is a noble cause!
And in order for the rail to serve you faithfully for many years, you must follow a number of rules:
- Deep potholes and high curbs should be driven at minimum speed.
- Try to turn the steering wheel to the extreme position as little as possible - this harms the rack and power steering pump.
- Before you start driving on a frosty day, shake the steering wheel from side to side to warm up the fluid in the system. This must be done with the engine running.
- Regularly check the condition of the anthers on the steering rods, in case of damage - do not over tighten with replacement.
Finally, we wish you good luck on the roads and hope that these simple tips will save your car from breakdowns!
If you want to make an appointment for steering rack repair for Toyota Prado, you need to:
1. call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master receiver;
2. The master will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both up and down, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the master makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our masters remove, repair and install the rack on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for the work.
If you hear an extraneous sound that the power steering pump makes, then you urgently need to check the operation of the pump and steering rack. Transmission fluid leakage is another telltale sign. If the steering wheel "does not listen" to the driver when cornering, this also indicates a breakdown in the steering rack.
In all these cases, you need to contact a car service for diagnostics. Our PEEK Repair Center in Moscow offers services for the diagnosis, replacement and repair of steering racks on Toyota Prado and other cars.
Our experience in the repair of steering racks exceeds 10 years. Experience, knowledge, professional equipment for diagnostics and repair, high-quality certified parts - all this allows us to provide our customers with the longest guarantees for our work.
We use the latest tools and repair kits to repair rails.It is less preferable for most car owners to replace the steering rack with a Toyota Prado, since the price of the steering rack is quite high.
Therefore, our craftsmen do their best to ensure that the rail repair has a good result. After our work, the performance of the rail is restored by almost 90-100%.
author Petr Panda from the Pradovsky Forum
Do you have a "wet" rail?
Do you have an irresistible desire to do something and 12 hours of free time?Then we go to you….
Short essay on the topic: "Replacing oil seals on the steering rack TLK Prado 90, 1KZTE"
Initial data: Prado 90, 1 KZTE, leak from the upper stuffing box, from under the boot
SO! Armed with the experience of two teammates - Serenya and Ivan63, Instructions from our and our friendly sites, the necessary spare parts, keys (the main thing is gas.), Ivan's lift, And most importantly, his invaluable direct help, the blessing of his wife and daughter, I arrived at the rail bulkhead. At 13-00, left alone with the lift, the car and the "crying" rail, I began to disassemble.
Raised the car, removed the wheels, TIED THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE SALON.
General view of the rail, etc. from the rear axle 
The place where it leaked is highlighted in color, there is a black flat rubber band above the distributor:
We unfasten the tip of the steering rods: we take out the stopper with a screwdriver, unscrew the fastening nut, dismantle the tip with a puller:
The next number of our program is the adapter block from the steering shaft to the distributor shank. Two bolts with a 12 head. They turned away calmly, but of course all the connections, for starters, were spilled with penetrating lubricant, VD-40: 
The place where it leaked is highlighted in color, there is a black flat rubber band above the distributor:
We unfasten the tip of the steering rods: we take out the stopper with a screwdriver, unscrew the fastening nut, dismantle the tip with a puller:
The next number of our program is the adapter block from the steering shaft to the distributor shank. Two bolts with a head of 12. I turned away calmly, but of course all the joints, for starters, were spilled with penetrating lubricant, VD-40:
If anyone else succeeds, it is better to move this assembly up the splines, disengage from the worm shank (it sticks out of the rail, the connector plane is in the area of the lower bolt), move the shaft to the side and remove the entire assembly from the shaft with a jerk down, then it will be easier and more convenient. I could not get.
After that, we unscrew the nuts and bolts of the rail housing (everything where the silent blocks are). On the horizontal, both the bolt and the nut are spinning; twist wherever you want.
The clamp on the right is the lower nut, the upper bolt, we twist from the side of the rail.
Vertical s / b - the bolt rotates, inserted from above, I got it in front of the rail, the nut is welded.
It took me about 1.5 hours of neat, unhurried work for all these unscrewings. At this, the smooth flow of repairs took a time out. When I unscrewed the fasteners from / blocks, the rail became movable, now it became possible to move it back by 7-8 cm, without completely pulling it off the bolts. When I moved the rail, then, as the teammates said, there was poor access, but access to two tubes suitable for the distributor. The system is like on brakes, a tube with a flange is stuck into the body, the nut rotates around the tube, presses.
Tools: GAS wrench, you may not need it, but let it be
Split for 17, carob for 17.
Middle tube to the left wheel: I pulled off the nut with an open-end wrench, since there was no split one yet (and it didn’t help). No matter how I poured it, I didn’t soak it, the tube in the nut did not move, but the tube began to slip at the junction with the rubber hose (a little further from the rail). Using this, in order not to load the rubber hose with torsion, I unscrewed the first nut. Poured half a liter of Dextron. Or substitute something or wash or soak
The far tube from the left wheel: The same scheme, only there is no joint with the rubber one, so only the nut-tube can slip. BUT, I couldn't get the nut off. Hushed up the edges, poured out a bunch of liquids, and NOTHING.
By this time, after about an hour and a half of stupid attempts, Ivan drove up, and with a brand new gas wrench, we moved this nut.Damn, without a gas nearby, I won’t even change the wheels now )).
The tubes were turned away, the rail was removed:
The process of bulkhead rails can be called more interesting than difficult. All connections are turned away, removed. Although maybe because Ivan63 had already eaten the dog first on his rail, and I only had time to take pictures?
Next: Clamp the rail in a vise. We loosen the clamps of the tie rod anther, move it.
We bend the latch highlighted in color, turn off the steering rod
Similarly, turn off the steering rod on the other side
We turn off the tubes from the distributor, from the other end these tubes can not be touched
They unscrewed the tubes, IMPORTANT POINT. DO NOT lose the bronze "washers"
We unscrew the two bolts securing the distributor housing:
Unscrew the pinch roller:
Remove the distributor from the rail housing
On the reverse side of the rail housing from the distributor, we unscrew the nut using a widely used and loved by all gas wrench
The rail itself is free. The gland is visible, which stands directly next to the nut. This is the first of two glands directly rails
Now we take out the second oil seal, it stands in the rail housing, is inserted from the side opposite to the distributor. The washer and seal are installed until it stops. Accordingly, a "special key" is taken
(maybe it will turn out with a head of 27, approximately the same outer diameter) and from the side of the distributor, we rest against the washer and knock out the gland together with the washer.
Next, we take the distributor itself. I did not remove the transition node of the steering shaft and worm shank: Remove it:
To disassemble the distributor, a “special key” is again required, but a different one. The worm is fixed with a nut with an internal octagon. Here it is necessary to unscrew it with a "special key"
View from above
“key” in person “turned from a pipe”
Here it is a nut with an oil seal inside
Next, we knock out the oil seal and bearing from the distributor housing. Through this omentum, dextron splashed up.
And also from a nut with an internal octahedron:
After disassembly, new seals are pressed in and everything is assembled in the reverse order.
We wrap the rack teeth, for example, with electrical tape. We put on a new oil seal (No. 2 for dismantling) and a washer on the rail, which were knocked out with the first “Special Key”
After we put on the stuffing box, remove the electrical tape, insert the rail and use it to drive the stuffing box into the body. After that, we put on the second gland and wrap the nut
Screw in the pressure roller.
We generously lubricate all places where there is no dextron: The distributor worm itself and the area of \u200b\u200bthe teeth of the rack, the ends of the rack after the seals, which are in operation under the anthers
We screw the tubes to the distributor and that's it, the rail is assembled
After the rail is assembled, we carry it back to the car, insert the bolts of its fastening into place, but do not tighten anything, since, in my opinion, the most interesting thing begins: This is to screw back the tubes from the pump that fit the distributor, or where they come from . Now the emotions are a little dulled, but we spent on this, excuse the "crap", about two hours. They do not want to cling to the thread and that's it. Somehow, by changing the entry angle, scrolling-scrolling-scrolling….. I managed to screw them back. After that, the junction of the shank and the steering shaft is put on. This knot rises up the slots and everything fits together. If it doesn't rise: soak with WD-40 and work out!! We fix the rail, stretch all the connections.
After that, we fill in the dextron, the car is on a lift, we start and turn the steering wheel. The level is gone - we immediately turn off so that the power steering pump does not turn dry. We add, start, deafen. Both are very comfortable. When the level has stabilized, you can climb under the car, admire the dry rail, put the wheels on and lower the car.
Conclusion: It took 12 hours for everything, just like I wrote.I will post a list of replaced oil seals later, the cunning "type" paronite or caprolon rings were not changed, due to an unobvious need. After sea trials, it turned out that I still did not get into the neutral position of the steering wheel, although I tied it. But this can be adjusted: loosen the joint of the steering shaft, raise it and correct the position of the worm by a few teeth. The pressure roller can be slightly tightened, the steering wheel does not fully return. We'll fix that too. In general, I am very pleased. At the moment, I ran 2000 km with the “new” rail, everything is dry, I don’t add anything.
Thank you all for your attention.
Thanks to Ivan63 for help, garage, lift. Serena for advice. 🙂
Good luck on the roads!
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Thank you, comrade Kotovsky! Do you think he's just sweating? - there are no oil stains in the yard on the paving stones or in the garage!
Just about yesterday, one hundred stated that the Prado has a chronic disease and the type can be solved by a complete replacement with the original rail, I already sat down so as not to fall! I didn't even ask how much it would cost me and left like a zombie.
But can you tell me where the adjusting bolt is located and will it harm the operation of the system by pulling it up ?! Does anyone have a photo report? or exact description.
Thank you very much. Best regards from Kazakhstan.
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Hey!
A month has passed and the steering wheel has become lighter, but still weakly returns to the straight line! But most importantly, there was a knock on the comb in the steering wheel, before it was completely invisible! Where is he coming from? These specialists seem to have done it. What to do about the knock now? Moreover, the play of rotation of the steering wheel appeared big!
Enrolled in a branded Toyota service. I ordered it again, but already through them a repair kit for the rails and shock absorber cushions (they said they were worn out at the diagnostics), as well as gearbox gaskets, belts, rollers. Somewhere in mid-February, I'll drive it, as spare parts arrive. They are right that they grumbled: - they say, chasing cheapness for unverified hundreds, then we get even more problems and now they have to try to improve the situation. They promise what they can do. Bulkhead rails, replacement of oil seals, checking the geometry, belts, lubricating the frogs, cleaning the brake pads, cleaning the gas tank and fuel system - all this will cost a thousand Americans! Truly now it gnaws at the thought that a miser pays twice! But let's see if the most important problem with the steering wheel can be eliminated !?
By the way, about the camber .. after replacing the steering tips, the steering wheel out of a hundred went 45 degrees wrong, at the camber it was simply unscrewed and set correctly, but it seems to me that this should not be, because the turning radius itself is violated! When, for example, I turn the steering wheel to the end, it already crackles from the right wheel. Blah specialists gr *****! What do you think?
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TLC9x Steering gear rail restoration, replacement of silent blocks, tips, etc. Rating: 
#1 Petrovich
Post has been edited by Petrovich: 09 April 2008 – 23:38
#2 Eran
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#4 Eran
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#6 Eran
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how it plays. Said it's not dead yet
but you have to do it. At the other hundred, they also told me what can already be done, but for now you can be patient.
they told me about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
She was leaking then, but now she stopped
#7 V.I.T.
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how it plays. Said it's not dead yet
but you have to do it. At the other hundred, they also told me what can already be done, but for now you can be patient.
they told me about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
She was leaking then, but now she stopped
#8 U.G.N.
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- TLC Prado KZJ95W 1KZ-TE
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Fidel took off the boot on the right side and showed how it plays. Said it's not dead yet
but you have to do it. At the other hundred, they also told me what can already be done, but for now you can be patient.
they told me about the rail applied 2 tkm ago
She was leaking then, but now she stopped
|
Video (click to play). |
IMHO Fidel does not understand steering racks, he told me the same thing and showed the same thing, like look how you have it hanging out. Six months have passed since then and nothing has happened to the steering wheel, the steering wheel also taps on the comb when it turns it hard, but according to various reviews, this happens to everyone on 90/95 pradiks. Because the steering is not new, there may be some deviations, not such as to repair it for that kind of money. It is not yet known how the renovation may end. I wouldn't touch anything.
