In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Please note that re-equipment of a car by a non-specialist can lead to serious consequences and is simply illegal in a number of countries.
I installed a rack 2108 for myself.
First I measured the brand-rail and 2108.
The brand-rail has a movement from lock to lock of about 11 cm and 3.2 turns of the steering wheel.
The 2108 has 3.5 revolutions but the movement is about 15cm.
It turns out with the eighth rack a sharper steering.
Then prituly rail to the body.
Eighth rack bracket that interferes near the steering shaft.
He cut it off with a grinder and polished it:
I also made a large hole in the body so as not to interfere with the intermediate shaft cross:
I made a bracket for the second mounting bracket.
(Photo 182, Photo 183)
Then another more correct one.
On the other hand, I have done so.
Now you need to accurately measure everything and bungled a normal bracket.
The intermediate shaft was installed by the eighth, and the Tauride cut, turned, made a groove for the bolt and screwed it on.
Also limited the travel of the rail to the right side
Drilled holes in the body
I inserted a stud into them and unclenched them with nuts
Tie rods and tips are also 2108.
The rods need to be machined and shortened by 70mm (there will be no problems with convergence even on the eighth fist).
You also need to deploy the cone in the racks for a larger diameter of the thrust tip.
Photo of the intermediate steering shaft:
why such a perversion. It is relatively easy to put on/off.
And then everything is simple.
to loosen the nut. you can use a motorcycle wrench (for the exhaust pipe nut).
.No key goes there just like that. I tried, and if you find a sickle-shaped key of this size, climb in there. easier with a chisel. [/ Quote]
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Video (click to play). |
tightened the nut with a regular open-end wrench.
when setting up, it is desirable to remove the left wheel - it's easier)
simply. but it takes a little time.
removal of 20-25 minutes. installation 40 minutes.
but then he sat down and in normal conditions you can sort it out. instead of writhing like cancer with a chisel and a hammer under the car.
I studied the situation closely - I wrote above:
took less than a month ago Tavria himself.
the owner was not greedy, and changed and repaired everything and everyone in it.
he immediately said that the rail was sorted out recently.
in the car is a small Zhiguli-Chinese steering wheel.
so the rail was so clamped that it was the steering wheel and was not going to return itself at the sharpest turn.
It didn't suit me in any way.
and the next day I bought the car decided to adjust the rail.
and now, having a bunch of all kinds of tools, and the same sickle moto keys, what the hell did I do right away.
and could not break this counter nut with a chisel.
shorter spat and removed the rail.
it is removed really in 5 minutes, provided that the bolts are not rotten.
no problem.
and that's just in the grip of holding the rail, I managed to break the lock nut.
then loosen the tightness and tighten the lock nut. but not so much special.
installed on the car, too, in 5 minutes, but was ambushed with a steering shaft.
I pushed the shaft from the rail very hard into it and could not insert the bolt.
tormented by breaking his back on the threshold of the car probably an hour.
in the end, he spat and decided to remove the rack again and reinstall it, but paying attention to the “steering shaft-rod” moment.
so I think it's EASIER TO REMOVE THE RAIL.
Steering gear:
- Left case.
- Steering rack.
- Collar.
- Carter.
- Thrust bearing.
- Internal bearing.
- Outer bearing.
- Spacer sleeve.
- Lid.
- Sealant.
- Pinion shaft.
- Adjusting gasket.
- Reiki thrust.
- Spring.
- Lock-nut.
- Crankcase plug.
- Rail bushing.
- Right case. B. Size for selection of expansion pads. D - cavity for lubrication
Disassemble the steering mechanism in the following sequence:
Assemble and adjust the steering mechanism in the reverse order with the following features.
- Pre-lubricate the rack shaft and, filling the teeth with a grease consisting of 1.5 parts of Fiol-1 grease and one part of engine oil (only 50 g of such grease is needed), enter the rack into the crankcase from the short side.
- Put covers on the crankcase and securely fasten them with clamps.
- Insert the gear shaft into the crankcase so that it engages with the rack, also filling the teeth and bearings with grease.
- After installing the spacer sleeve and its full fit, measure the protrusion of the sleeve from the crankcase (dimension B in the figure "Steering mechanism"). The thickness of the gaskets is selected for the amount of protrusion. For this purpose, shims with a thickness of 0.1 are provided; 0.15; 0.5 mm.
- After selecting the desired thickness of the gaskets, close the crankcase with a lid and fasten with bolts, wrapping them evenly, but not completely. When tightening the bolts, turn the gear in both directions and check its axial movement. If, when tightening the bolts, the force of turning the gear increases, add shims between the cover and the crankcase. In the presence of axial play of the gear, reduce the thickness of the gaskets.
- Tighten the cover bolts only after final adjustment of the gear position. The moment of turning the gear with proper adjustment should be 0.02
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Video (click to play). |
0.1 N m (0.002. 0.010 kgf m). Axial play of the gear is not allowed.
To disassemble the shaft support, place the support in a vise, turn the technological part perpendicular to the shaft and remove it from the support (if the technological part was installed when the support was removed from the vehicle).
Remove the shaft, spring, bearing stop and bearing from the support. Then, using a screwdriver or a beard, remove the support sleeve from the shaft support. Remove dust and dirt from the parts and inspect their condition. If there is noticeable play in the bearing, and the support is deformed, damaged or has lost elasticity, replace the parts with new ones.
Assemble the shaft support in the reverse order. Insert the support bushing into the grooves of the support using a screwdriver or a beard. Then put the parts on the shaft in the sequence shown in the figure “Shaft support assembly” (previously lubricating the bearing with grease) and orienting the groove A on the spline part relative to the hole on the support, i.e. the hole on the shaft support and the hole for the pin bolt ( on the lower shaft) should be in the same plane, and the groove A on the spitz part should be perpendicular to the hole on the support. Then, slightly compressing the spring with the shaft, insert the technological part into the hole of the support and the shaft perpendicular to the shaft. Rotate the workpiece 90° to fit along the shaft. In this case, the spring will be compressed and a size of 128 mm will be provided between the end face of the support and the shaft.
When installing the support assembly with the upper and lower shafts (the position of the rack in the steering mechanism must correspond to the rectilinear movement of the vehicle), insert the splined part of the lower shaft into the steering gear shaft so that the spline coupling pinch bolt is located with the head from below. Fasten the support in this position with four bolts to the pedal bracket. Tighten the terminal clamp bolt on the bottom shaft and remove the process piece from the support.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.
All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
- a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
- increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
- there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
- there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
- the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
- toothed shaft;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- golden mechanism.
Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:
- Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
- Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
- Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.
- Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
- Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
- Remove the steering rack heat shield.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.
- Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
- Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
- Loosen the lock nut.
- Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
- Pull out the bottom seal.
- By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
- Turn the retaining plug and pull out the retaining ring by the wire that will show when scrolling.
- Pull out the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
- Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).
- Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
- Place the rail into the housing.
- Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all the parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
- Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
- Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
- Set the steering rack to the middle position.
- Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
- Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
- Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
- Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.
Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
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