Causes of knocking steering rack. How to properly tighten the rail
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good for you - you have front-wheel drive and the rail went down.
I, on my all-wheel drive, pulled it out to the right side of the car where the tie rod comes out - of course, turning the rack 180 degrees.
but in general it is better to trust the professionals - they will do it faster and easier - and this is a rather dreary process - especially insert the steering cardan into the rail!
I'll do my part. Yesterday I replaced the steering rack assembly, took it off and put it together with rods and tips. Everything is as in the report, with one nuance - I could not unscrew the rear cushion support, one of the bolts was too close to the CV joint, but I did not want to remove it. As a result, the whole rail was removed. To do this, we dismantled the suspension on the right - unscrewed the upper arm and shock absorber strut from the middle arm, pushed the rail as far as possible to the left, shifted the rods all the way to the left, let the tip into the space in front of the transverse beam, lowering the lower arm with your hand and pushing the shock absorber back, with one turn along the axis took out the entire rail to the right. Installed in reverse order. It was possible to unscrew the entire rack, but in principle it did not interfere much.
With a new contract rail and new tips, happiness has come - the last knocks in the front suspension have disappeared, many of the bumps that the rail used to knock on are now not noticeable at all.
Announcement on the forum Club-NISSAN or Nissan Primera Club (NPC): Good afternoon. I am the owner of a Nissan Primera P12 (I used to have an Almera N16). The car is excellent. For the money I did not expect to get a comfortable and reliable car. But why, but why do both the Almera and the Examples leak steering racks? How to prevent the rail from leaking, how to sort out the rail with your own hands? Where to buy oil seals and how to replace them? Is it possible to replace the steering rack oil seal on a Nissan without removing the rack from the car?
Forums and conferences are full of such messages, as well as answers to them. But still, there is no consensus and recipe on the Internet about the steering racks of the Nissan Almera and Primera. Many, having replaced only one oil seal on the Almera rail, which is very free under the hood, report that everything is very simple. You don’t need to remove the rail for this, but the oil seal can be installed from a Soviet machine by sharpening it a little along the outer diameter. It is possible and so 🙂 The company Hydrolab has nothing against it 🙂 But if you approach this issue professionally, then this method is not suitable.
Firstly, only one upper distributor oil seal can be replaced in this way (some call it a steering shaft oil seal or a regulator oil seal) (pictured)
because to replace the lower distributor seal (which is installed on the same shaft, made of the same material, works in the same conditions and will also leak soon) (pictured)
you need to take out the entire spool, which then cannot be inserted back. In addition, the lower distributor seal on the Nissan Almera and Primera rails is removed with the destruction of a disposable ferrule, which can only be put back with the help of special equipment.
Secondly, when repairing the steering rack, absolute cleanliness is required. If you bring dirt or sand into the distributor spool, you can lose the power steering pump. Even a few grains of sand that get into the pump cause scuffing of the polished mating surfaces and the rotor. After that it will have to be changed. The pump is expensive. More expensive than rail repairs, even for professionals.
Thirdly, how to eliminate backlash, the sound of crackers and wear of the cracker crankcase, wear of rods, leakage of side seals and much more without removing the rail?
For all of the above reasons, steering racks must be removed for repair.
And here are the power seals (glands of the shaft-rail, i.e. the rod moving left and right) (pictured)
often do not need to be changed. Their quality does not cause any complaints. And at the same time, to replace them, you need to have a special tool to remove the internal power seal from the very depths of the rail cylinder.
How to repair the steering rack Nissan Almera and Primera yourself.
And yet, the steering rack of Almera and Examples can be repaired independently, but on condition that only the upper seal of the distributor flows and the rest of the seals are in excellent condition. Those. no need to mess with the complicated procedure of replacing them using special tools.
To do this, the rail will still have to be removed. You don't have to take the wheels off. It is necessary to put the wheels straight and disconnect the tie rod ends from the swing arms from the pit. Next, remove the cardan shaft, disconnect the supply and return oil lines and unscrew the bolts securing the rack to the body.
The rack is removed through the hood past the battery along with the rods, after it is strongly shifted towards the right wheel. Installation is in reverse order, except that you first need to screw the tie rods to the wheels, put the wheels straight, and only then install the steering shaft cardan.
The removed rail must first be cleaned of dirt, washed with kerosene and blown with compressed air. DO NOT wash the rail with Karcher, as water will get inside.Next, unscrew the tubes from the distributor (they must be screwed back with care, since the fittings are screwed into aluminum), remove the distributor housing.
The gland must be purchased in advance with a size of 19x29x4.5 mm. You can buy it from us at the Hydrolab company or simply on the market. The procedure for replacing the seal is simple. Knock out the oil seal together with the bearing using a mandrel (a high head of 16 will do).
Then hammer the new oil seal back together with the bearing using a mandrel (a tall head of 22 will do).
Apply special grease to the oil seal and bearing and carefully reassemble everything. Bolts of fastening of the distributor housing must not be tightened to the end, but only until they stop against the bearing.
Eliminating backlash and rack knocks is a special topic for a separate article. We can only say that by a run of 100 thousand kilometers they appear in any rail, and especially in rails with plastic crackers, like in Almera and Examples.
So why are the steering racks of Nissan Almera and Primera flowing?
Gidrolab has been successfully repairing steering racks for Nissan Almera and Primera cars for more than 10 years and has accumulated solid statistics. 90% of these steering racks begin to flow at runs from 90 to 140 thousand kilometers and 98% of them flow through the upper and lower distributor seals.
Please note that there are two glands in the distributor - upper and lower. A leak through the upper one is always noticeable, but through the lower one it is not. When the lower seal of the distributor leaks, the liquid enters and imperceptibly accumulates inside the steering rack. Therefore, if it flows from above, then both distributor seals must be changed. But leaks of power (side) oil seals are very rare and are associated with various defects introduced into the rail later - for example, when replacing steering rods, anthers were poorly installed and corrosion appeared. Or they scratched and knocked the polished parts of the shaft-rail.
So why is it that one pair of seals works great, while the other is constantly leaking, although they operate in the same oil, temperature, etc.? All our studies have shown that corrosion on the details of these rails is extremely rare. Although for others it is a scourge. There is also no catastrophic wear of the sealing lips. But if you look at the seals, you will see that although they are made of a particularly heat-resistant SNBR material, they still look different. Power seals are made of a slippery material, and the material of the distributor seals is similar to ordinary rubber. They are too soft and the spring is weak. It has long been noticed that if the stuffing box material is soft, then it not only wears out quickly, but also quickly loses elasticity when working in oil. In other words, it quickly "dubeet". And despite the fact that the spring on the distributor seals is weak, when they tan, leaks begin.
It turns out that the discrepancy came out precisely with the material of the seals at the factory. In the meantime, this was found out, a huge number of cars have already been produced in three years. And even now, the new original steering racks sold in the store do not even last 40 thousand kilometers, because they have been lying in a warehouse somewhere for all these years, and the oil seals have already hardened.
All that remains is to change the hardened oil seals for new, high-quality ones. It is good that the rest of the steering racks of the Nissan Almera and Primera are very reliable. Gidrolab will quickly and efficiently repair the steering rack and give 13 months warranty no mileage limit.
Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of the steering mechanism
Assembling the steering mechanism with rods
1 - Assembly of the intermediate shaft 2 - Injection tube
3 - cotter pin 4 — Assembly of the steering mechanism
Steering gear components
1 - Clamp 2 - Protective cover 3 - Clamp 4 - Tie rod end 5 - Locknut 6 — Consolidation of a bracket No. 2 of the case of the steering mechanism 7 — Bracket No. 2 of the case of the steering mechanism 8 — the Case of the steering mechanism
9 - Locking washer 10 - Tie rod 11 - Rail 12 - O-ring 13 - Teflon ring 14 - Oil seal 15 - Stopper 16 - Bushing 17 - Wire
Steering components
1 - Return tube 2 - O-ring 3 - duster 4 — the Case of the control valve 5 - Oil seal 6 - Bearing 7 — Assembly of the control valve 8 - Teflon rings
9 — Locknut of a cover of a spring of a directing rack 10 - Gasket 11 — Cover of a spring of a directing rack 12 - Guide rail springs 13 - Assembly of the guide rail 14 - Self-locking nut 15 — Covers of the case of the steering mechanism 16 — the Case of the steering mechanism
Before removing the steering mechanism, remove the steering wheel, because. otherwise, the coil spring may be damaged.
Set the wheels to the straight ahead position.
Remove the steering wheel (see Section Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of a steering column ).
Disconnect the steering rod ends from the steering knuckles (see Section doors ).
Disconnect the intermediate shaft assembly (see Section Removal, installation, dismantling and assembly of a steering column ).
Turn out a bolt and remove two collars.
Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the steering mechanism.
Turn out two bolts of fastening of assembly of the steering mechanism and remove it.
Do not damage return tubes.
Put installation marks on steering drafts and on their tips then give counternuts and remove tips.
Loosen the clamps and clips of the protective covers and remove the covers and their fasteners.
Measure the left and right covers, then to install them in their original places.
Measure the left and right rods, then to install them in their original places.
Hello dear car enthusiasts! In what cases is it necessary to replace the steering rack?
Some drivers who are inexperienced in automotive science may have a question: why is it necessary to replace the steering rack, how difficult is this operation, and is it possible to perform it in amateur conditions? Let's try to deal with these questions.
The steering mechanism is one of the most important components of the car device, which is responsible not only for performing the function of changing the direction of movement of the car, but also for the safety, and sometimes the life of the driver himself, passengers traveling with him and other people involved in road traffic.
This is explained by the fact that the correct maneuvering of the car makes it possible to avoid collisions with obstacles that suddenly appear on the roadway, to ensure unconditional and complete control over the direction of the car's turn.
Thus, there is no need to prove that the technical condition of the parts that make up the steering must always be in a fully operational condition.
If, during the next technical inspection, the master says that there is steering play in the steering that goes beyond the tolerance, then it is necessary to find out the source of its occurrence and urgently eliminate it.
Most likely, such a backlash appears in the rods and tips. If this is not the case, then most likely it is necessary to replace the steering rack with a new one, preferably branded.
Naturally, the driver has a problem, but how to remove the steering rack on a particular car?
It is recommended to start the procedure for removing this part on a specific vehicle by reading the service documentation (manual), which usually describes this operation and how it must be performed.
But, if you couldn’t find the necessary documentation, then you can use a few simple, but sometimes very effective steps:
Find out what type of steering rack is used on this car: electric booster, hydraulic booster or a simple rack and pinion mechanism.
If a simple rack and pinion mechanism is installed, it is necessary to: release the fastenings of the steering tips; loosen the bolts securing the mechanism to the car body; remove the universal joint, it can be released through the left or right side.
If a power steering rack is installed, you must first: release the high pressure pipes; Drain the power steering fluid into a free, clean container.
For a variant of the system with a hydraulic power booster, which is attached directly to the steering rack, it must be borne in mind that the removal of the steering rack is much more complicated.
To remove it, it may be necessary to dismantle the subframe of the car, which is a rather complicated operation, which is almost impossible to perform without outside help. In this case, it is recommended to contact the service center.
After replacement, the steering rack is installed in the following sequence:
Check - tie rods, they should be in the same position as before removal.
Place the steering gear on the right.
Connect the steering rack shaft and the lower universal joint (steering arm).
Tighten the hinge bolt.
Connect the pipes to the steering rack using new sealing rings.
Align the position of the pipelines in the brackets, then tighten the fastening.
Install the brackets and tighten them.
Position the tie rods on the pivot arms and secure them with new nuts.
Fill the power steering container with working fluid. Add fluid after pumping if necessary.
In order to prevent the need to make expensive repairs to the steering mechanism, it is necessary to replace the failed protective elements of the steering mechanism in time.
It is recommended to do tire balancing in a timely manner, and avoid driving on flat tires or uneven rims. Subject to these recommendations, the steering mechanism is able to serve for a long time properly and without breakdowns.
This will relieve you of the need to often solve the problem: how to replace the steering rack and ensure traffic safety.
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cat squirrel
Group: Users Posts: 121 Registration: 17.6.2013
Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking on the steering rail - I decided unambiguously to Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed Found out for myself:
1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right! 2. Car if under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.) 3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money almost down the drain) 4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but it can afford. And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.
Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing rails, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. x Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) steering wheel they have everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. – and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part. Installed if you look at many places, including on Note. I ordered this bushing at my own risk. 48128-ED00A . 1.5 waited, arrived.
Everything seems to be quiet, super. There are questions, I will answer. Pictures later.
Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16
Thumbnails of attached images
A steering malfunction is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitching of the steering wheel on rough roads. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing the old rack.
The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do this.
WD40
A set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
Tip remover.
Hammer and thin screwdriver.
Liquid key.
Rags.
Wooden supports.
Steering rack and tips
Before starting work, we install the car on a level place and block the parking brake. For reliability, place bricks under the rear wheels. After fixing the car, go to the front.
We put the steering wheel in the neutral position.
Loosen the wheel nuts one by one.
Loosen wheel nuts
When all the work has been done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. Thus, you will free access to the steering tips, which will make it easier to remove the steering rack.
Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over with a solution of WD (liquid wrench).
While the liquid is still corroding rust, we move into the engine compartment and free access to the steering rack.
Unscrew the absorber
Free removal will be prevented by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.
If you change the tips together with the steering wheel, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.
Steering tip puller
Pliers remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and we put the upper part of the finger on the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and with a hammer blow we knock out the tip from the rack mount.
Tip removal
Steering cardan lock bolt
We loosen the fasteners of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and lift up the trim so that nothing is in your way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and to release it will be necessary to unscrew only one nut.
We return under the hood and turn off the nuts securing the steering clamps.
The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, begin, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can’t remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap lightly on it.
When you have completely disconnected all the fasteners, carefully pull the steering rack through the hole in the wheel arch space. In order to remove it smoothly, you will have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft fits into the recess. In which direction to turn, be guided by the place.
Rail dismantling
Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you do all the work with an assistant.
VIDEO
The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and begin preparations for installing a new one.
Installing a new steering rack
Clean all seats with a brush and sandpaper. Treat the landing studs with grease or graphite grease.
Before installing a new rail, open the plugs and fill the holes with lithol.
Now we start the rail in the engine compartment. This is done in the reverse order of removal. Carefully turn it around the axis so as not to damage the mechanisms and wiring.
We put the rail on the studs, put on the clamps and bait the nuts.
When connecting the splined part to the steering “worm”, you will need an assistant. One directs from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the cabin. The main thing is that the notch on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the mounting bolt.
At the last stage, you need to tighten the stud nuts. This must be done sequentially, first twisting them a little and then tightening them to the limit.
The rail is installed, we put on the tips, wrap them and install the wheels.
Be sure to adjust the camber after installation.
Before starting work, watch a video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:
VIDEO
Each car has such a device as a steering rack. Its main function is to turn the wheels in different directions when the car is moving. Periodic inspection of the steering mechanism is necessary in order to save yourself from serious breakdowns and emergencies in the future.
The steering rack is connected to the wheels of the car with ball joints.The steering rack features are directly affected by the type of control - hydraulic and mechanical. The mechanical type is often found on domestic cars, as well as on some older foreign cars. Hydraulic, basically, is only in the design of imported cars.
All automotive parts are subject to wear and tear. But most of all this applies to the steering rack mechanism. It is her mechanism that takes all the blows, runs into deep holes that arise due to bumps on the roads. No matter how careful you are, a breakdown will happen sooner or later.
To determine the breakdown in the steering rack and the need for its repair, you need to make sure that the rest of the chassis of the car is in good condition. You can do this at any specialized car service. When identifying certain causes of breakdowns in the chassis of the car, it is best to eliminate them on the spot, without postponing for tomorrow.
The main signs of a breakdown or malfunction in the steering rack should be learned how twice two are - this knowledge will save you from many troubles. So, often problems in the rail give out a significant increase in effort when turning the steering wheel. For hydraulic vehicles, you need to constantly monitor the fluid level, and top up the missing fluid if necessary.
If the vehicle is hydraulically controlled, then there may be a loud sound or extraneous noise in the power steering pump when cornering. While driving, an unpleasant knock may appear, which gives very much to the steering wheel. When turning the steering wheel, there may be a slight play. It appears no matter which way you turn the steering wheel.
The most common sign of a breakdown is a slight oil leakage, this phenomenon is typical for both types of vehicle control. The cause of this failure is the wear of the steering rack oil seal. When such reasons appear, repairs must be carried out immediately so that your vehicle control mechanism does not completely fail while driving.
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It is much easier to repair the steering rack for a car with a mechanical type of control than in the case of a hydraulic one. We will consider an example of replacing and repairing a hydraulic type of control, since in this case you will learn about all the possible difficulties. First you need to figure out what elements the steering rack consists of.
The main elements are a toothed shaft, a support sleeve and a spool mechanism. In a hydraulic type mechanism, a pump is attached to the steering rack, which directly drives it. When removing the rail, by the way, it interferes very much. It is very difficult to repair the steering rack. If you have never performed this procedure, then it is best to contact a car service or a knowledgeable friend who will help you complete the basic operations.
In addition to knowledge, you will need a number of tools and spare parts - ready-made repair kits are sold especially for work. It is different for every car model. But some elements are suitable for cars of the same brand - this often happens in the case of domestic cars. When the repair kit is purchased, you can proceed to disassemble the rail. This is best done on a lift or in a viewing hole.
First you need to fix the steering wheel evenly and put the car on the handbrake. You can fix the steering wheel using the locking mechanism, or by wrapping it with sealing tape along with the steering column. The next step is to remove the engine protection, if you have one. After that, unscrew the fasteners - fold them separately so that during the assembly stage you do not lose them and do not get confused.
Under the hood, if necessary, remove the air filter by moving the nozzles to the side. Disable electronic chips that may interfere with the removal of the steering rack. If you have a hydraulic control system, then you must first pump out all the fluid from the reservoir.Nowadays, it is very expensive, so saving will not hurt you - carefully pump it into a clean canister.
Inside the car, you need to unscrew and then knock out the cam mechanism. The high and low pressure pipes in the hydraulic booster must be unscrewed with a special wrench so as not to “lick” the edges. In no case do not try to rip them off with other improvised tools. This may lead to the need to completely replace them, and for this the tubes will need to be flared. You cannot do this at home, so you will have to contact a specialized service, so that all your savings will come to naught.
The cam mechanism is located near the gas and brake pedals. As soon as you remove it, the rail with all its mechanisms and bearings can be pulled out of the car. During the dismantling process, complications may arise with the steering rods and ball ends, you may need to unscrew them. But it's best if you get them with the rail, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to install when everything is assembled.
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The next step is to disassemble the steering rack mechanism and replace parts. At this stage, it is very important to remember the correct location of all parts and the order in which they are removed. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the plastic plug on the gear shaft. After that, you need to unscrew the lock nut, do it carefully so as not to strip the thread. Lubricate threaded connections if necessary. Next, use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring and the lower rail oil seal.
Using a hammer, you need to remove the locking pin, because it blocks access to the upper gland. In most cases, it is necessary to replace the upper steering rack oil seal - it is he who wears out the most during operation, the most load falls on the mechanism of its bearing. The steering rack oil seal is located along with the bearing on the steering cardan. It is necessary to remove the oil seal together with the bearing and then, using a suitable type of key, knock it out.
This must be done with extreme caution, because the cylindrical bearing balls can fly out. A new bearing is very expensive and not easy to buy. If necessary, also replace the lower steering rack seal. Its replacement is much easier than the top one. To install the oil seal, it must first be lubricated along with the bearing. You need to install it on the right side so that the spring is pointing down. After that, install the rail into the housing and put on the plastic sleeve.
Fix the gland in the desired position by pressing its edges with a screwdriver. If necessary, push it. Fix the plug on the stuffing box with a retaining ring. Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft. The steering rack must be centered as accurately as possible. Screw the steering rack bushing in the car in the same order as when removing it. To do this, rotate it until you reach the desired goal. Then return the parts to their place in the same sequence as when removing them.
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After carrying out all the work on replacing the steering rack oil seal, as well as repairing the entire mechanism, you need to make a wheel alignment. You should make sure that he has not lost his way, because you removed the steering rack along with the steering rods. Also, if necessary, you need to set the steering wheel if it has shifts to the right or left. To do this, remove the cover from the signal button, unscrew the lock nut and adjust the steering wheel on the slots.
After that, assemble everything in reverse order. It is much easier to replace the upper and lower oil seals in the mechanical type of control, however, the failure of the steering rack also occurs much more often.
In order for the steering mechanism to serve you longer in the future, you need to replace the necessary components in time, camber and balance the wheels, avoid sections of the road with large pits, maintain the necessary pressure in the tires of the car, change the steering fluid in a timely manner, top up if necessary.All these tips will help you enjoy the pleasure of driving your car in the future.
VIDEO
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the device of the car is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as, indeed, repair.
All cars, regardless of price and status, are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, because it is these parts that take the hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels in potholes on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering system needs repair, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
a knock is clearly felt in the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
there was a backlash of the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel is rotated;
the power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, your steering rack is leaking. What to do, how to repair and improve the performance of the steering? First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car structure.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
toothed shaft;
steering rack support sleeve;
golden mechanism.
Repair of the steering rack usually consists of several stages:
Dismantling, disassembly of the steering rack and cleaning of accumulations of all its parts.
Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
Diagnosis of the gear shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should acquire a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others). How to remove the steering rack.
Drive the car into the pit or raise it with jacks.
Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
Remove the steering rack heat shield.
Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
Remove the rail from the mounts and pull it out of the insides of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the tie rods, because it will be much more convenient to pull the new anthers onto special protrusions on the tie rods. This will help you install the anthers with a perfect tightness.
Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat screwdriver.
Unscrew the lower plastic plug of the gear shaft.
Loosen the lock nut.
Remove the circlip and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
Pull out the bottom seal.
By tapping, remove the locking pin that blocks the upper gland.
Turn the retaining plug and pull out the retaining ring by the wire that will show when scrolling.
Pull out the steering rack through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from it.
Remove the gland and plug, pull out the spring and clamping mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gear of the toothed shaft are significantly damaged, then most likely the entire mechanism will need to be replaced (how the steering rack is replaced on the VAZ 2109, read in our material).
Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
Place the rail into the housing.
Put the plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all the parts with grease and install the oil seal in its place by pushing it with something.
Install the plug and secure it with the lock wire.
Put the bottom seal on the toothed shaft.
Set the steering rack to the middle position.
Insert the gear shaft into the seat, after lubricating the seals with grease.
Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to help it slide into place. Install the retaining ring.
Tighten the lower lock nut, bearing, plug.
Install the clamping mechanism, spring and plug. Pull harder.
Then install the rack on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do a “alignment” after the repair or replacement procedure. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has much in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubrication fluid.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
Video (click to play).
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