Reasons for knocking the steering rack. How to properly tighten the rail
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good for you - you have front-wheel drive and the rail went down.
I, on my all-wheel drive, pulled it out to the right side of the car where the steering rod comes out - of course, turning the rail 180 degrees.
but in general it is better to trust the professionals - they will make it faster and easier - and so this is a rather dreary process - especially insert the steering universal joint into the rail!
I'll do my bit. Yesterday I replaced the steering rack assembly, removed and put it together with rods and tips. Everything is as in the report, with one caveat - I could not unscrew the rear cushion support, one of the bolts is too close to the CV joint, but I did not want to remove it. As a result, the entire rail was removed. To do this, dismantled the suspension on the right - unscrewed the upper arm and the shock absorber strut from the middle arm, pushed the rack as far as possible to the left, moved the rods all the way to the left, let the tip into the space in front of the cross beam, lowering the lower arm with your hand and pushing the shock absorber back, with one turn along the axis took out the entire rail to the right. We put it in the reverse order. It was possible to unscrew the entire rack, but in principle it did not interfere much.
With a new contract rail and new tips, happiness has come - the last knocks in the front suspension have disappeared, many irregularities that the rail used to knock on are now not noticeable at all.
Announcement on the Club-NISSAN or Nissan Primera Club (NPC) forum: Good afternoon. I am the owner of a Nissan Primera P12 car (I used to have an Almera N16). The car is great. For that kind of money, I didn't expect to get a comfortable and reliable car. But why, but why both Almera and Examples have steering racks leaking? How to prevent the rail from leaking, how to sort out the rail with your own hands? Where to buy oil seals and how to replace them? Is it possible to replace the steering rack oil seal on a Nissan without removing the rail from the car?
Forums and conferences are full of such messages, as well as responses to them. But still, there is no consensus on the Internet about the steering racks of the Nissan Almera and Primera. Many, having replaced only one oil seal on the Almera rail, which is very loose under the hood, report that everything is very simple. It is not necessary to remove the rail for this, and the oil seal can be supplied from a Soviet car, undercutting it slightly along the outer diameter. It is possible and so 🙂 The company Gidrolab has nothing against 🙂 But if you approach this issue professionally, then this method is not suitable.
Firstly, only one upper distributor oil seal can be replaced this way (some call it the steering shaft oil seal or the regulator oil seal) (pictured)
because to replace the lower distributor seal (which is installed on the same shaft, made of the same material, works in the same conditions and will also flow soon) (pictured)
you need to remove the entire spool, which then cannot be inserted back. In addition, the lower oil seal of the distributor on Nissan Almera and Primera rails is removed with the destruction of a disposable compression ring, which can only be put back using special equipment.
Secondly, when repairing a steering rack, absolute cleanliness is required. If you add dirt or sand to the valve spool, you can lose the power steering pump. Even a few grains of sand caught in the pump will scuff the polished mating surfaces and the rotor. After which it will have to be changed. The pump is expensive. More expensive than repairing the rail, even by professionals.
Thirdly, how to eliminate backlash, crackle knock and crack casing wear, rod wear, side oil seal leaks and much more without removing the rail?
For all of the above reasons, steering racks must be removed for repair.
But the power seals (shaft-rail oil seals, i.e. rod moving left-right) (pictured)
often not necessary to change. Their quality is not satisfactory. And at the same time, to replace them, you need to have a special tool to remove the inner power seal from the very depth of the rack cylinder.
How to repair a steering rack Nissan Almera and Primera yourself.
And yet, the Almera and Examples steering rack can be repaired on your own, but on condition that only the upper distributor oil seal is leaking and the rest of the oil seals are in excellent condition. Those. no need to get involved with a complex procedure for replacing them using a special tool.
For this, the rail still has to be removed. The wheels do not need to be removed. It is necessary to put the wheels straight and from the pit disconnect the ends of the steering rods from the swivel levers. Next, remove the cardan, disconnect the supply and return oil lines and unscrew the bolts securing the rack to the body.
The rack is removed through the hood past the battery along with the rods, after it is strongly shifted towards the right wheel. Installation is in reverse order, except that you first need to screw the steering rods to the wheels, put the wheels straight, and only then install the steering shaft cardan.
The removed rail must first be cleaned of dirt, washed with kerosene and blown off with compressed air. DO NOT wash the rail with a Karcher, as water gets inside.Next, unscrew the tubes from the distributor (they must be screwed back with care, since the fittings are screwed into aluminum), remove the distributor housing.
The oil seal must be purchased in advance in the size 19x29x4.5 mm. You can buy it from our company Hydrolab or just on the market. The procedure for replacing the oil seal itself is simple. Knock out the oil seal together with the bearing using a mandrel (a 16 high head will do).
Then drive the new oil seal back together with the bearing using a drift (a 22 high head will do).
Apply special grease to the oil seal and bearing and reassemble carefully. The bolts of the distributor housing must not be tightened to the end, but only to the moment they stop in the bearing.
Eliminating slack and knocking of the rail is a special topic for a separate article. We can only say that by a run of 100 thousand kilometers, they appear in any rail, and especially in racks with a plastic cracker, like in Almera and Examples.
So why are the steering racks of the Nissan Almera and Primera leaking?
For more than 10 years, Gidrolab has been successfully repairing steering racks of Nissan Almera and Primera cars and has accumulated solid statistics. 90% of these steering racks begin to leak at runs from 90 to 140 thousand kilometers and 98% of them flow through the upper and lower distributor oil seal.
Please note that there are two oil seals in the distributor - an upper and a lower one. The flow through the upper one is always noticeable, but through the lower one is not. When the lower oil seal of the distributor leaks, fluid enters and accumulates imperceptibly inside the steering rack. Therefore, if it flows from above, then both distributor oil seals must be changed. But the leaks of the power (side) oil seals are very rare and are associated with various defects introduced into the rail later - for example, when replacing the steering rods, the anthers were poorly installed and corrosion appeared. Or scratched and banged the polished parts of the shaft-rack.
So why does one pair of oil seals work perfectly, while the other is constantly flowing, although they work in the same oil, temperature, etc.? All our studies have shown that corrosion on the parts of these rails is extremely rare. Although for others it is a scourge. There is also no catastrophic wear on the working lip of the oil seals. But if you look at the oil seals, you will see that although they are made of a particularly heat-resistant material SNBR, they still look different. The power seals are made of slippery material, and the distributor seal material is similar to regular rubber. They are too soft and the spring is weak. It has long been noticed that if the stuffing box material is soft, then it not only quickly wears out, but also quickly loses its elasticity when working in oil. In other words, it quickly "dubs". And besides, that the spring on the distributor seals is weak, when they become tanned, leaks begin.
It turns out that the discrepancy came out precisely with the material of the oil seals at the factory. In the meantime, it was found out, a huge number of cars have already been produced in three years. And even now, the new original steering racks sold in the store do not nurse even 40 thousand kilometers, because they have been lying in a warehouse all these years somewhere, and the oil seals have already become stiff.
All that remains is to replace the hardened oil seals with new, high-quality ones. It's good that the rest of the steering racks of the Nissan Almera and Primera are very reliable. Gidrolab will quickly and efficiently repair the steering rack and give 13 months warranty no mileage limitation.
Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering mechanism
Assembling the steering gear with rods
1 - Assembling the intermediate shaft 2 - Discharge tube
3 - Cotter pin 4 - Assembling the steering mechanism
Steering components
1 - the Clamp 2 - Protective cover 3 - Clamp 4 - the End of a steering rod 5 - Lock nut 6 - Sealing of a bracket No. 2 of the steering mechanism housing 7 - Bracket No. 2 of the steering mechanism housing 8 - the housing of the steering mechanism
9 - the Fixing washer 10 - Steering rod 11 - Rake 12 - the O-ring 13 - Teflon ring 14 - the Epiploon 15 - Stopper 16 - the Bushing 17 - Wire
Steering components
1 - Return tube 2 - the O-ring 3 - Anther 4 - the Control valve body 5 - the Epiploon 6 - the Bearing 7 - Assembling the control valve 8 - Teflon rings
9 - Lock nut of a cover of a spring of a guide rail 10 - the Gasket 11 - the cover of the spring of the guide rail 12 - the springs of the guide rail 13 - Assembling the guide rail 14 - Self-locking nut 15 - Steering gear housing covers 16 - the housing of the steering mechanism
Remove the steering wheel before removing the steering gear. otherwise, the coil spring may be damaged.
Set the wheels to the straight-ahead position.
Remove the steering wheel (see Section Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering column ).
Disconnect the ends of the steering rods from the steering knuckles (see Section Doors ).
Disconnect the intermediate shaft assembly (see Section Removal, installation, disassembly and assembly of the steering column ).
Unscrew the bolt and remove the two clamps.
Disconnect the pressure and return pipes from the steering gear.
Remove the two mounting bolts of the steering assembly and remove it.
Do not damage the return pipes.
Apply alignment marks on the tie rods and on their tips, then give back the locknuts and remove the tips.
Loosen the clamps and clamps of the protective covers and remove the covers and their fasteners.
Measure the left and right covers to replace them later.
Measure the left and right rods to replace them later.
Hello dear motorists! When is it necessary to replace the steering rack?
Some inexperienced drivers in automotive science may have a question: why is it necessary to replace the steering rack, how difficult is this operation and is it possible to perform it in an amateur environment? Let's try to deal with these issues.
The steering mechanism is one of the most important components of a car device, responsible not only for performing the function of changing the direction of movement of the car, but also for the safety, and sometimes the life of the driver himself, passengers traveling with him and other people involved in road traffic.
This is explained by the fact that the correct maneuvering of the car makes it possible to avoid collisions with obstacles that suddenly appear on the roadway, to provide unconditional and complete control over the direction of the car's turn.
Thus, there is no need to prove that the technical condition of the parts that make up the steering must always be in perfect condition.
If, when performing the next technical inspection, the master says that there is a steering play in the steering that goes beyond the tolerance, then it is necessary to find out the source of its occurrence and urgently eliminate it.
Most likely, such a backlash appears in the rods and tips. If this is not the case, then most likely it is necessary to replace the steering rack with a new one, preferably a branded one.
Naturally, the driver has a problem, but how to remove the steering rack on a particular car?
It is recommended to start the procedure for removing this part on a specific car with familiarization with the service documentation (manual), which usually describes this operation and how it must be performed.
But, if you didn't manage to find the necessary documentation, then you can use several simple, but sometimes very effective actions:
Find out what type of steering rack is used on a given car: electric power steering, power steering or a simple rack and pinion mechanism.
If a simple rack and pinion mechanism is installed, it is necessary: to release the fastenings of the steering tips; loosen the bolts securing the mechanism to the car body; remove the gimbal, it can be released through the left or right side.
If a steering rack with a hydraulic booster is installed, it is necessary to: release the high pressure pipes; drain the power steering fluid into a free, clean container.
For a variant of the system that has a hydroelectric booster, which is attached directly to the steering rack, it must be borne in mind that removing the steering rack is significantly complicated.
To remove it, it may be necessary to dismantle the car's subframe, which is a rather complicated operation that is almost impossible to perform without outside help. In this case, it is recommended to contact the service center.
After replacement, the steering rack is installed in the following sequence:
Check - steering rods, they should be in the same position as before removal.
Place the steering box on the right.
Connect the steering rack shaft and the lower universal joint (steering arm).
Tighten the hinge bolt.
Connect the pipes to the steering rack using new sealing rings.
Align the position of the pipes in the brackets and then tighten the fasteners.
Install the bracket mountings and tighten.
Place the tie rods on the pivot arms and secure them with new nuts.
Fill the power steering tank with working fluid. Add fluid after pumping if necessary.
In order to avoid the need to make expensive repairs to the steering mechanism, it is necessary to replace the defective protective elements of the steering mechanism in time.
It is recommended to do tire balancing in a timely manner and avoid driving on flat tires or uneven rims. Subject to these recommendations, the steering mechanism is able to serve for a long time properly and without breakdowns.
This will save you from having to deal with the problem often: how to replace the steering rack and ensure driving safety.
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Cat squirrel
Group: Users Posts: 121 Registration: 17.6.2013
Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking at the steering reike - decided to unequivocally Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed I found out for myself:
1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right! 2. If the car is under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.) 3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money is almost down the drain) 4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but can afford it. And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.
Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing racks, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. X Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) wheel they have everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. - and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part. Installed if you look at a lot, including Note. I ordered this sleeve at my own risk and peril 48128-ED00A . 1.5 waited, arrived.
Like everything, the silence passed, super. If you have any questions, I will answer. Later pictures.
Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16
Thumbnails of attached images
A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.
The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.
WD40
Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
Tip remover.
Hammer and thin screwdriver.
Liquid key.
Rags.
Wooden props.
Steering rack and tips
Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.
Loosen the wheel nuts
When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.
Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).
While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.
Unscrew the absorber
Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.
If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.
Tie rod puller
Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.
Removing the handpieces
Steering gimbal locking bolt
We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.
Dismantling the rail
Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..
VIDEO
The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and start preparing for the installation of a new one.
Installing a new steering rack
Clean all seats with a brush and sandpaper. Coat the landing pins with grease or graphite grease.
Before installing a new rail, you need to open the plugs and fill the holes with lithol.
Now we put the rail into the engine compartment. This is done in the reverse order of removal. Rotate it carefully around the axis so as not to damage the mechanisms and wiring.
We put the rail on the studs, put on the clamps and attach the nuts.
When connecting the spline part with the steering "worm", you will need an assistant. One guides from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the passenger compartment. The main thing is that the groove on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the fixing bolt.
At the last stage, you need to tighten the stud nuts. This must be done sequentially, first twisting them a little and then tightening them to the limit.
The rail is installed, we put on the tips, wrap them up and install the wheels.
Be sure to adjust the toe-out after installation.
Before starting work, watch the video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:
VIDEO
Each car has a device such as a steering rack. Its main function is to turn the wheels in different directions when the car is moving. It is necessary to periodically inspect the steering mechanism in order to save yourself from serious breakdowns and emergencies in the future.
The steering rack is connected to the wheels of the car by means of ball ends. The features of the steering rack are directly influenced by the type of control - hydraulic and mechanical. The mechanical type is often found on domestic cars, as well as on some old foreign cars. Hydraulic, basically, is only in the design of imported cars.
All car parts are subject to wear and tear. But most of all this applies to the steering rack mechanism. It is her mechanism that takes all the shocks, collisions into deep pits that arise from irregularities on the roads. No matter how careful you are a driver, a breakdown will happen sooner or later.
To determine if the steering rack is broken and if it needs to be repaired, you need to make sure the rest of the chassis is in good working order. This can be done at any specialized car service. When identifying certain causes of breakdowns in the chassis of the car, it is best to eliminate them on the spot, not postponing until tomorrow.
The main signs of a breakdown or malfunction in the steering rack should be learned like two or two - this knowledge will save you a lot of trouble. So, often problems in the rack are given by a significant increase in efforts when turning the steering wheel. For hydraulic vehicles, the fluid level must be constantly monitored and, if necessary, topped up.
If the vehicle is hydraulically controlled, there may be a loud noise or abnormal noise in the power steering pump when cornering. While driving, an unpleasant knock may appear, which gives a lot to the steering wheel. Slight play may appear when the steering wheel is turned. It appears regardless of which way you turn the steering wheel.
The most common sign of a breakdown is a slight leakage of oil, this phenomenon is typical for both types of vehicle control. The reason for this breakdown is the wear of the steering rack oil seal. If such reasons appear, repairs must be made immediately so that your vehicle control mechanism does not completely fail while driving.
VIDEO
It is much easier to repair a steering rack for a car with a mechanical type of control than in the case of a hydraulic one. We will consider an example of replacing and repairing a hydraulic type of control, since in this case you will learn about all the possible difficulties. First you need to figure out what elements the steering rack consists of.
The main components are the toothed shaft, bearing bush and slide valve mechanism. In a hydraulic type mechanism, a pump is attached to the steering rack, which directly drives it. By the way, when removing the rail, it interferes very much. Repairing the steering rack is very difficult. If you have never performed this procedure, then it is better to contact a car service or a knowledgeable friend who will help you do the basic operations.
In addition to knowledge, you will need a number of tools and spare parts - ready-made repair kits are sold specifically for work. It has its own for each car model. But some elements are suitable for a car of the same brand - this often happens in the case of domestic cars. When the repair kit is purchased, you can start disassembling the rail. This is best done on a lift or on a viewing pit.
First you need to lock the steering wheel straight and put the car on the handbrake. You can fix the steering wheel using the locking mechanism, or by wrapping it with sealing tape along with the steering column. The next step is to remove the engine protection, if you have one. After that, unscrew the fasteners - fold them separately so that during the assembly stage you do not lose them and do not get confused.
Under the hood, if necessary, remove the air filter by moving the pipes to the side. Disable electronic chips that may interfere with the removal of the steering rack. If you have a hydraulic control system, then you must first pump out all the liquid from the tank. Nowadays, it is very expensive, so the savings will not hurt you - carefully pump it into a clean canister.
Inside the car, you need to unscrew and then knock out the cam mechanism. The high and low pressure pipes in the hydraulic booster must be unscrewed with a special wrench so as not to "lick" the edges. Under no circumstances try to rip them off with other tools at hand. This can lead to the need to completely replace them, and for this the tubes will need to be expanded. You cannot do this at home, therefore you will have to contact a specialized service, so that all your savings will come to naught.
The cam mechanism is located near the gas and brake pedals. As soon as you remove it, the rail with all its mechanisms and bearings can be pulled out of the car. In the process of dismantling, complications may arise with the steering rods and ball ends, it may be necessary to unscrew them. But best of all, if you take them out with the rail, because new anthers will be much more convenient to install when everything is assembled.
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The next step is to disassemble the steering rack mechanism and replace parts. At this stage, it is very important to remember the correct location of all parts and the order of their removal. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the plastic cap on the gear shaft. After that, you need to unscrew the lock nut, do it carefully so as not to rip off the thread. If necessary, lubricate the threaded connections. Next, use a flat screwdriver to remove the retaining ring and the lower rail seal.
Using a hammer, you need to remove the locking pin, because it blocks access to the upper stuffing box. In most cases, it is necessary to replace the upper oil seal of the steering rack - it is he who wears out the most during operation, the most of the load is applied to the mechanism of its bearing. The steering rack oil seal is located together with the bearing on the steering universal joint. It is necessary to remove the oil seal together with the bearing and then knock it out using a suitable type of wrench.
This must be done with extreme caution, as the cylindrical bearing balls can fly out. A new bearing is very expensive and not easy to buy. If necessary, also replace the lower steering rack oil seal. It is much easier to replace it than the top one. To install the oil seal, it must first be lubricated together with the bearing. It must be installed with the right side so that the spring is directed downward. After that, install the rail in the body and put on the plastic sleeve.
Fix the oil seal in the desired position by pressing down on its edges with a screwdriver. If necessary, nudge it. Secure the plug on the gland with a retaining ring. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft. The steering rack must be centered as accurately as possible. Fasten the steering rack bush in the car in the same order as when removing. To do this, turn it until you reach the desired goal. Then return the parts to their place in the same sequence as when removing.
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After carrying out all the work on replacing the steering rack oil seal, as well as repairing the entire mechanism, it is necessary to do the alignment. You should make sure that it is not strayed, because you removed the steering rack together with the steering rods. Also, if necessary, you need to set the steering wheel if it has shifts to the right or left. To do this, remove the cover from the signal button, unscrew the lock nut and adjust the steering wheel on the slots.
After that, collect everything in the reverse order. It is much easier to replace the upper and lower oil seal in the mechanical type of control, however, the steering rack failure occurs much more often.
In order for the steering mechanism to serve you longer, you need to replace the necessary components in time, do wheel alignment and balancing, avoid road sections with large pits, maintain the required pressure in the tires of the car, change the fluid for the steering mechanism in a timely manner, and top up if necessary. All these tips will help you enjoy pleasant driving in the future.
VIDEO
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance? First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
toothed shaft;
steering rack support sleeve;
spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others). How to remove the steering rack.
Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
Pull out the lower oil seal.
Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
Place the rail into the enclosure.
Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
Place the steering rack in the middle position.
Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do "camber-toe" after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
Video (click to play).
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