We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.
From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155.
It appears that the parameters were considered:
2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland
on the second 155th oil seal
Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155
Video replacement of the boot of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3 B4
Replacing the boot, steering rack with power steering, or rather replacing the anther of the steering linkage Volkswagen Passat B3, video.
Tie rod boot, especially on steering racks with power steering, is a very necessary thing and you should always try to check their integrity.
This is especially true of our cars, time, long runs do their job, sometimes "try »Masters at wheel alignment, who, due to laziness or ignorance, or maybe on purpose, do not loosen the clamp on the steering rod boot and twist the boot, the boot then cracks, lets in dust and moisture, over time, the steering rack begins to leak from the power steering and because of such a seemingly unimportant detail - we change the steering rack with power steering.
There are many different ways to replace the steering rack boot with power steering on a Volkswagen Passat B3 B4 car, one of the video is.
If you have any questions or additions, please feel free to write in the comments.
Video replacement of the boot of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3
Video posted with permission of the author Dr944S2 .
Vitaly, ok let's hope the weather is favorable
Okay, tomorrow will be free time, I’ll do it. If only there was no rain, there is no garage with a pit. I only plan to put it next year.
Vitaly , you need to go to the inspection hole and listen to exactly where the whistle / roar comes from, so as not to disassemble and change unnecessary nodes
Good evening! I fixed the rail, everything worked out. The power steering belt was replaced, but the whistle problem did not go away. Only now it doesn’t whistle, but “growls” not only in extreme positions, but also between them. Tell me where to start checking hydraulics? Maybe the problem is in the rail, disassemble, wash and put in a new one? Or is it a pump? But if the pulley slips, then the channels are probably clogged, or the hollow tracking system does not beat off or the pressure reducing valve. I would be grateful for any info.
Vitaly , ok 🙂
Yes, I will definitely unsubscribe. Only three months later, I am on duty. Thanks for the tip!
Vitaly, the steering rack of the power steering is attached with two clamps to the body of the car, it should be motionless relative to the body, in the figure in the article on this site "Steering rack ZF Volkswagen Passat B3" under №10 and an elastic band under №11 (two pieces)
Hello! When you turn the steering wheel, the power steering belt whistles. The oil is normal. Before a business trip, I discovered that the steering rack moves in one direction or another, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel. Should the steering rack be motionless? How many rail attachment points? Thanks!
Yuriy, I now have TRW steering rack anthers installed, have already covered almost 100 thousand km, while normal
Admin please tell me which file is better to put, trw, lemfor.etc old man tore a pas.b4 94 rub. Than grease all the middle what kind of grease is on the video, thanks for the site
oleg , showdown, it's like "Russian roulette"
So now I am in even greater doubts!))))) Did this rail come from Germany? or removed from the local "corpse"! in Germany, so the boot would not have changed! it is a fact! there they have a "structure" what a marvelous! the Germans are the envy of us!
oleg, I completely agree, it’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing
and more joke! when I bought a rail from the meal, I brought it to the garage, I look at the boot on the steering rods, some kind of unusual! it turns out that some craftsman changed them like that. )))) cut off the front of the boot. planted a new one, tucked it into the old one, without any clamps. like this ! here is such a replacement!))))))))))) I saved on the anthers did not have to buy! the old one was cut off, and the new one was just right!
watched a "scary" video of how to dismantle the steering racks. by unscrewing the subframe and lowering the engine! and I thought, if I do it, I’ll screw it all back one by one! scratched the back of his head and pulled it out in an easier way. ))) unscrewed all fastenings of the steering rack with hoses. unscrewed the ball. unscrewed the suspension arm on the left, the lever was taken to the side! squeezed the transverse lever pipe! and literally a couple of millimeters are missing for the rail to come out! but the knee of the exhaust pipe interferes. put a jack under the gearbox literally 10 mm raised the rail tilt appeared and it came out freely! also in reverse order everything went back! everything and everything and everything!
I've also dismantled my rail! flowed in all projections! I ran to the meal bought my own amno, dumped a lot of money! and then I washed my own, and it is in better condition than with the meal, if not to say that it is almost perfect! Now I sit and think (how sorry it is for money.)! tomorrow I'll go buy a repair kit and repair it myself! when I turned it over in my hands it seems much easier than on the "scary" videos!
oleg, I do not argue or condemn, I just said about your question about the video and about the German, no more basement self-collection , so we save, we put the original, or rather our old boot, but original, only because this used original boot runs at times, or even dozens of times longer than a new one, what is in auto markets and auto stores
and I knock out the steering ones with hammer blows on the end of the lever, and I do not damage the boot with the steering puller! He probably crushed it and replaced it, but no words about it!
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In order to carry out a scheduled technical inspection, the owner of a Volkswagen Passat B3 turned to our car service. The order sheet, in addition to the scheduled inspection, indicates the diagnosis of the chassis and steering. The owner has suspicions about the inoperability of the above system. Among other works - replacement of consumables, lubricants, cleaning filters. According to primary signs, there was a knock in the front axle area, stiffness in the steering wheel when operating a technical device.
Since in our activities we do not rely only on the testimony of car owners, the workshop technicians will conduct visual diagnostics in order to objectively assess the situation, identify a breakdown, its location, and calculate the number of necessary spare parts.
The car was manufactured between 1988 and 1993. in Germany. Bodywork variations are standard: sedan and station wagon. The range of engines is wide, gasoline and diesel engines with volumes from 1.6 to 2.8 liters in top-end configurations, depending on technical characteristics. The preference was given to the diesel unit. Despite the fact that the model was discontinued a long time ago, the struggle for it in the secondary market does not diminish. The model turned out to be great, in every sense of the word.
The list of primary signs is quite wide, it makes no sense to list all the properties, but those that are most characteristic should be highlighted:
stiffness of the steering wheel when operating a technical device;
biting the steering column when rotating to the extreme left or right position;
the presence of oily smudges on the body of the mechanism;
knocking when driving on uneven surfaces;
beating, vibrations at speeds over 80 km / h.
The list is not exhaustive, but the properties are sufficient for the owner to pay attention to the malfunction and visit the workshop for repair work.
Low pressure or insufficient amount of oil in the hydraulic system.
Long-term operation without intermediate repairs, prevention, when the internal parts have become completely unusable and can no longer perform their functions.
Third-party mechanical damage to the unit as a whole, which leads to depressurization and lubricant leakage.
Breakage of an adjacent unit, which entails failure of the steering rack.
Poor previous repairs, which caused the formation of backlash, beating.
Installation of low-quality parts that do not meet standards and manufacturing technology.
Another reason not included in the general list.
After placing the car in the perimeter of the repair area, the foreman begins the inspection.Initially checks the steering column from the passenger compartment. Particular attention is paid to its integrity, performance, all defects and inconsistencies are recorded for analysis. The connection of the axle shaft and the steering column at the bottom (from the passenger compartment) is subject to inspection.
The entire mechanism as a whole is subject to inspection, starting from two rubber boots, ending with fasteners. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the steering gear. It often happens that insufficient fixation of the fastening bolts leads to the formation of beating, vibrations, although the rail itself is absolutely intact and does not need to be repaired. The owners are trying to fix something that doesn't need it at all.
The whole procedure is divided into the following blocks:
dismantling;
parsing, cleaning, drying;
diagnostics;
assembly;
testing at the stand;
installation.
So, initially, the master unscrews the connection located inside the cabin, thus disconnecting the axle shaft from the steering column. Then he lifts the car with a lift and unscrews the fasteners to the body. However, you should not remove the rail from the seat, since you need to unscrew the ends of the steering rods. Only then can you start removing the part from under the car.
Upon completion of the washing and drying stage, the master re-conducts flaw detection, replaces worn parts with new ones, prepares them for assembly.
After the rack is assembled, the master sends it for testing using a special high-pressure stand. The working conditions are close to real ones, which allows you to see the actions of the reiki in advance in advance. If inconsistencies are recorded, the part is subject to revision. Otherwise, the control mechanism is completely installed in its original place. Testing is carried out on a car, the technical device is being prepared for delivery to the customer, provided that there are no third-party breakdowns and scheduled repairs.
This completes the repair procedure. The average service life is 80-100 thousand km. However, in practice, the mileage is much lower, since few people adhere to the basic rules and recommendations for servicing a technical facility.
Our prices are not the lowest in the city, as we do not save on quality. At the same time, we have created a system for the most transparent pricing. Before starting the repair, a detailed cost estimate is created, where it is clearly visible what the client is paying for. We do not have any additional postscripts that have not been agreed in advance.
Repair of a steering rack VW Passat b3, removal and installation.
VIDEO
Passat B3. Replacing the steering rack from power steering to mechanical (manual)
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Removing the steering rack passat b3
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Replacing the steering rack VW Passat b3. Drilling the rail mounting bolts
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Volkswagen Passat steering rack repair
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How to replace a steering rack without power steering on a Volkswagen Passat B3 / VW Passat B3
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VW Vento replacement steering rack
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Passat B3. Replacing the steering rack. Addition. Homemade anther of the steering shaft cardan
VIDEO
Replacing the power steering pump with a vw passat b3
VIDEO
Replacing the oil seal on the steering rack Passat B5 and Audi A4.
VIDEO
The work procedure is applicable for cars:
Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994 Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997
the information is applicable for repairs and other cars
For work, you need keys for 13,17,19,22 and a gas wrench or its equivalent, a pair of plastic ties for securing the covers.Lift the front of the car onto the pads and fix it securely for those who have a hole, it will be easier for those who have a hole, but I changed it without a hole.
We unscrew the tips of the steering rods
Strong and precise. we release traction with a blow
Having raised the cover, unscrew and select the bolt. which holds the connection of the steering shaft cardan to the rack
Next, we dive under the car and, to facilitate manipulations, remove the gravitap
We unscrew the four bolts holding the rail, unscrewing them, remove the brackets holding the rail, The bolts are not selected.
Unclench the cardan and remove it
I did not succeed in completely pulling out the rail with the tips, we could not have enough ingenuity, therefore, alternately sticking out the rail in one direction or the other, we unscrew the rods. Pulling off the cover and holding the hinge with a gas wrench, unscrew the counter nut, then unscrew the hinge itself with the rod
Now the most important thing, when winding the rod joints, do not tighten them to the end by 10-13 turns, otherwise there will be a lack of thread on the steering rods, in the second golf, on the contrary, it must be screwed to the end.
Therefore, when I found that one of my covers was torn, I did not hesitate to put the cover from the golf rack. And I almost forgot to put some suitable lubricant in the rail.
We put it in the reverse order and MANDATORY visit the alignment-collapse adjustment in the service
I bought a rail from this office
And I put the grease on both sides of the rod, I think it will slowly tighten and inside, I also smeared the steering rod joints themselves well. Can someone say that it’s in vain, they say at the plant they lubricated it and that's enough, but I just can't do it any other way.
The steering racks for Golf 2-3 and Passat B3 are different to make sure it is enough to disassemble and compare.
And in appearance it is difficult to distinguish (if the numbers are not readable).
I rode with different rails (I have 4 of them), including the Volkswagen Golf 2. Golf is 15 mm shorter. (approximately), but the situation can be corrected. A small "eversion" can almost reach the trade winds by shifting the internal hinges of the rods. On the removed rail (without steering rods), push the right edge all the way inward (where the bushing is pressed). Then we tighten the right lock nut until it rests against the bushing. We unscrew the rail to the middle position and tighten the left lock nut to the same depth. Do not forget to drip 2-3 drops of blue thread lock onto the degreased thread surface. After that we wind up the traction and counter. The number of revolutions on the steering wheel will be less, somewhere 3.5 versus 4.5 trade winds, but in real life it will not differ much due to the different inclination of the teeth of the racks.
Continuation and all discussion of the report here
How can I find the information I am looking for? Decoding of the factory complete set of the car (English) Decoding of the factory complete set of VAG in Russian! Diagnostics of Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat, error codes.
If you didn’t find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car. With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.
The Volkswagen Passat B3, first presented to the general public in 1988, was no longer a family car like its predecessor, the B2, but a mid-size city car for the middle class. In other words, it has become more versatile, which is reflected not only in its appearance, but also in the design features of the chassis.
Passat B3 is reliable, durable, easy to operate and, despite its venerable age (its production was discontinued in 1993), remains safe. The last, quality - wholly and entirely the merit of the chassis and steering system of this car.
On the first cars of this series, the steering system was a mechanical rack, that is, its design was as simple as possible.Turning the steering wheel, the driver set in motion the steering rack, at the lower end of which the control gear is rigidly attached. Its rotation by means of a gear transmission turns into a forward movement (to the left or to the right, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel) of the rack. Lugs connected to it with the help of bearings also come into motion. The latter rotate the front wheels of the vehicle. This design is already more than a hundred years old, nevertheless, it remains the most reliable, and therefore the most demanded for cars of all types.
The main secret of its reliability lies in the simplicity of the control rail. But besides the main secret, there are two more: the accuracy of adjustment of all units of the mechanism and the quality and strength of the steel from which its parts are made.
IMPORTANT! Only original Volkswagen components are able to again ensure the durability and quality of the steering mechanism, if necessary, repair the steering rack on the Volkswagen Passat B3.
The need for repair may arise when the rail or some of its parts are worn out, or if they are broken.
The first sign of all rail malfunctions is the appearance of backlash. There can be several reasons for its formation - from natural wear of the mechanism as a result of a long mileage of the car or insufficient lubrication, to improper meshing of the gear with the toothed part of the rack, failure of the crankcase attachment or failure of the steering rod bearing hinges. The answer to this question is provided by a complete diagnosis of the entire vehicle steering system. This is a rather complicated procedure that requires dismantling and disassembling the rail, so it can take a long time.
After the place of localization of the backlash is established by the master - and it can form in any of the nodes of the rail mechanism - a way to eliminate it is determined. The backlash at the stage of its occurrence can be defeated by the procedure of tightening all the components of the mechanism, but, given the age of the car, this victory is unlikely to be complete and final, and after a while this malfunction will appear again, but to a much greater extent. Therefore, it makes sense to replace especially worn parts of the rail with new ones, and then forget about the problem, at least for another several tens of thousands of kilometers.
A knock or rattle is another signal with which the rail signals its malfunction. If the knock appeared gradually, starting with barely audible clicks that occur when turning the steering wheel, and increased over time, then, most likely, the reasons for its occurrence are the same: wear of parts. If a loud knock in the area of the front axle of the car was formed suddenly and its appearance was accompanied by difficulties in turning the steering wheel, then it is quite possible that this is evidence of a more serious malfunction - deformation or even breakage of one of the steering gear teeth. There can be no two opinions: the broken part will have to be replaced.
The answer to the question, with which part of the mechanism the trouble occurred, will also be given by the diagnostics of the rail.
IMPORTANT! After replacing the failed parts and assembling the rail, it must go through the adjustment procedure on the test bench.
Here, the working conditions are simulated for it, and with the help of electronic measuring devices, the exact angles of rotation of the tips are set when the staff acts on them.
The adjustment of the connection of the wheels with the tips is carried out after installing the rack on the car. This procedure is one of the key in carrying out repairs to the car's steering system, and how effectively this system will continue to work depends on its accuracy.
If we are talking about the Volkswagen Passat B3 produced after 1990, then a power steering (GUR) has been added to its steering system. Many believe that its purpose is solely to compensate for the effort expended by the driver to turn the steering wheel. Yes, this is its main purpose, but not the only one.The hydraulic booster also absorbs shocks to the steering rack that occur when the car is moving on uneven roads. Thus, the power steering not only facilitates the process of driving, but also helps to reduce the wear of the parts of its rack.
But any medal like
So, at some point, leaving the parking lot, you find that the steering wheel of the car turns harder than usual, and a small oily puddle remains on the asphalt under the front axle. All that was required was to replace the torn oil seal a couple of days ago. However, it will not be too late to do this even when all the liquid has flowed out of the power steering. The main thing is not to forget to fill it again after renovation.
IMPORTANT! Any malfunction of the steering rack affects negatively the vehicle's handling. Therefore, at the slightest suspicion of its breakdown, do not delay contacting a car service. The Passat B3 steering rack, the price of which is quite high, must be repaired on time, otherwise replacement costs will not be avoided.
VIDEO
The work procedure is applicable for cars:
Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997 Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994
information is suitable for repairs and other cars.
Good afternoon vwts forum users! I decided to share my experience of replacing the tie rod, tk. a backlash was found in the tip and the traction ball mechanism near the rail !!
2) Unscrew the tip nut at 19.
3) Using a puller, remove the traction.
5) We unscrew the rod from the rail, the key is of a non-standard size, I had to use an adjustable wrench. When you unscrew the rod from the rail, you need to hold the rail for a special grip under an open-end wrench 14 or 17, non-observance of this condition is fraught with premature death of the rail
6) The rod is unscrewed, we check the rail play.
7) Checking the Germans, there is lubrication.
8) We screw the rod into place.
9) We put on the boot, there is a feature. A tube with air is suitable for the anther, for this tube in the anther there is a place where it must be inserted, it is very difficult to do this, but it is possible !!
10) Tighten the boot with ties.
11) We fasten the rod end.
12) We make adjustments to camber-descent.
Similarly, I changed the steering rod on the right side, with some changes: to make it easier to get to the steering rack, I released the front suspension wishbone: 1. Disconnected the ball link from the steering knuckle (bolt with a nut by 17, and unscrew the bolt by 17 to remove the previous bolt) 2 I unscrewed the stabilizer (jet thrust) - nut by 17 (turn carefully, I folded the rack). 3. He unscrewed the bolt 19 of the front silent block 4. Loose the bolt 19 of the rear silent block The entire lever was pulled back (as the axis of rotation - the rear silent block)
To unscrew the steering rod, I took a 32 key (for the steering rod) and a gas key (for the rail). Here they wrote about a special grip on a turnkey rail for 14 or 17 - I did not find it, I had to use a daw (the book says that a vice is used).
Video (click to play).
About specials. grip on the rail. Rake TRW, that is, American, special. the grip is located on the side of the left pull under an open-end wrench for 19, maybe someone will come in handy.
