Do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack Passat B3

We will demonstrate how to repair a TRW steering rack with our own hands from a VW Passat B3 car. Repairs will be made using a standard repair kit that can be ordered from exist.

At first, the steering rack leaked a little, every month the smudges only increased, the steering wheel became tight, especially when it was cold, and the power steering reservoir was empty. It was decided not to aggravate the situation, but to carry out repairs on their own.

From 2 minutes it is shown how to remove the steering rack.
4:27 disassembling the steering rack.
14:37 assembly of the steering rack.

An important note about the error in the video. After you have installed the rail in the housing with an internal gland and a plastic ring, you should not pull it back, as it was in our case, in order to fill in oil, so you can easily damage the oil seal with the teeth.

Video repair of the TRW steering rack in VW Passat B3:

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still in the process of writing
This report consists of materials made iva99380798(for which many thanks to him.) Well, and my ad-libbing.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and instructions on the borrowed photos, because info taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. = 1 # post2068729

Background.
For some time now, I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. Moreover, it does not depend on a straight line or with inverted wheels. And recently, the flow of the reiki itself was added

Story.

Since walking is not quite hunting, I began to look for the rail in an inoperative state. The guys loaded up exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out for a long time which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its affiliation to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is how she looks on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I'll try .
Having fished out the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here is such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to shoot a reiki.

First, we climb under the torpedo from the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's feet.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rack (a bolt with an eccentric and a wrench for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the work in the salon.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the swivel levers.

Then, from the driver's side, remove the protective casing / boot

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, underneath is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the form of a 12-sided head, for which a 10-sided head with 12 sides was purchased. Immediately I unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I got under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Then he unscrewed the slurry supply to the rail, the bolt 22 + 2 pucks (we don’t lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the slurry return - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Here everything is released, we take out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I didn’t take off the wheels, I just jacked it up on this side)
And now this is a miracle in hand

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they were twisted.
Next, remove the anthers ... It is better to prepare the place in advance, because a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the steering rods, I had one on the verge of death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I would not think.

1.Next, we screw it on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tighten the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we try to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. Remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Then, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/ URL] and take out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm, I changed:
1 gland and one o-ring on the bushing with the bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
on the shaft itself there are 4 white little rings and under them 4 black ones. We lubricate everything with liquid and put it aside until assembly.

Move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We need to remove the retaining ring (it is already taken off a little higher in the photo). We put the rail on the “priest” and pulling / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem (1), the bushing (2), and the shaft itself.

We take the stock. On it we change the O-ring and the oil seal
Next, on the bushing, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We make his troubleshooting. My shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on the one hand.
Change 1 white sealing ring on the shaft. Now we put all this aside until assembly and grab the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft) and take the head on 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and, with a light blow, knock out the oil seal and the bushing, which are approximately in the middle of the body. These are they:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.

From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I picked them up and went to tempt fate once again.
He took off the rail again, disassembled it, wiped everything. He took off the oil seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters were considered:
1. The thickness of the gland is the same, the only difference is in the installation of the nylon ring

2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. Appearance of the working surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. It is apparently designed to work under high pressure.
I made better pictures:
The first photo shows the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th oil seal

Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155

Video replacement of the boot of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3 B4

Replacing the boot, steering rack with power steering, or rather replacing the anther of the steering linkage Volkswagen Passat B3, video.

Tie rod boot, especially on steering racks with power steering, is a very necessary thing and you should always try to check their integrity.

This is especially true of our cars, time, long runs do their job, sometimes "try»Masters at wheel alignment, who, due to laziness or ignorance, or maybe on purpose, do not loosen the clamp on the steering rod boot and twist the boot, the boot then cracks, lets in dust and moisture, over time, the steering rack begins to leak from the power steering and because of such a seemingly unimportant detail - we change the steering rack with power steering.

There are many different ways to replace the steering rack boot with power steering on a Volkswagen Passat B3 B4 car, one of the video is.

If you have any questions or additions, please feel free to write in the comments.

Video replacement of the boot of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3

Video posted with permission of the author Dr944S2.

Vitaly, ok let's hope the weather is favorable

Okay, tomorrow will be free time, I’ll do it. If only there was no rain, there is no garage with a pit. I only plan to put it next year.

Vitaly, you need to go to the inspection hole and listen to exactly where the whistle / roar comes from, so as not to disassemble and change unnecessary nodes
listen, sign off later, please

Good evening! I fixed the rail, everything worked out. The power steering belt was replaced, but the whistle problem did not go away. Only now it doesn’t whistle, but “growls” not only in extreme positions, but also between them. Tell me where to start checking hydraulics? Maybe the problem is in the rail, disassemble, wash and put in a new one? Or is it a pump? But if the pulley slips, then the channels are probably clogged, or the hollow tracking system does not beat off or the pressure reducing valve. I would be grateful for any info.

Vitaly, ok 🙂

Yes, I will definitely unsubscribe. Only three months later, I am on duty. Thanks for the tip!

Vitaly, the steering rack of the power steering is attached with two clamps to the body of the car, it should be motionless relative to the body, in the figure in the article on this site "Steering rack ZF Volkswagen Passat B3" under №10 and an elastic band under №11 (two pieces)
the power steering belt needs to be tightened
unsubscribe later, please

Hello! When you turn the steering wheel, the power steering belt whistles. The oil is normal. Before a business trip, I discovered that the steering rack moves in one direction or another, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel. Should the steering rack be motionless? How many rail attachment points? Thanks!

Yuriy, I now have TRW steering rack anthers installed, have already covered almost 100 thousand km, while normal
I personally did not lubricate with anything, I installed them as they were in the box

Admin please tell me which file is better to put, trw, lemfor.etc old man tore a pas.b4 94 rub. Than grease all the middle what kind of grease is on the video, thanks for the site

oleg, showdown, it's like "Russian roulette"

So now I am in even greater doubts!))))) Did this rail come from Germany? or removed from the local "corpse"! in Germany, so the boot would not have changed! it is a fact! there they have a "structure" what a marvelous! the Germans are the envy of us!

oleg, I completely agree, it’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing
and that it is impossible to return the rake from the meal back? we give two weeks
about the rail - well, this is the problem, that one, but without the appropriate equipment, so you have to figure out how to do it yourself and disassemble less
anthers - there are two types of them, some on the steering rod directly creampie (the diameter is almost the same as that of the rod), there are others, through a rubber spacer (the diameter of the boot is larger, so they put on a spacer, and then the boot is on top
well, and our craftsmen also get out of the situation as best they can

and more joke! when I bought a rail from the meal, I brought it to the garage, I look at the boot on the steering rods, some kind of unusual! it turns out that some craftsman changed them like that. )))) cut off the front of the boot. planted a new one, tucked it into the old one, without any clamps. like this ! here is such a replacement!))))))))))) I saved on the anthers did not have to buy! the old one was cut off, and the new one was just right!

watched a "scary" video of how to dismantle the steering racks. by unscrewing the subframe and lowering the engine! and I thought, if I do it, I’ll screw it all back one by one! scratched the back of his head and pulled it out in an easier way. ))) unscrewed all fastenings of the steering rack with hoses. unscrewed the ball. unscrewed the suspension arm on the left, the lever was taken to the side! squeezed the transverse lever pipe! and literally a couple of millimeters are missing for the rail to come out! but the knee of the exhaust pipe interferes. put a jack under the gearbox literally 10 mm raised the rail tilt appeared and it came out freely! also in reverse order everything went back! everything and everything and everything!

I've also dismantled my rail! flowed in all projections! I ran to the meal bought my own amno, dumped a lot of money! and then I washed my own, and it is in better condition than with the meal, if not to say that it is almost perfect! Now I sit and think (how sorry it is for money.)! tomorrow I'll go buy a repair kit and repair it myself! when I turned it over in my hands it seems much easier than on the "scary" videos!

oleg, I do not argue or condemn, I just said about your question about the video and about the German, no more
For example, before doing something, something that I personally have never done, I often watch different videos, just to understand what and how, of course, what can then be done differently, since everyone has different conditions
anthers - yes, he just replaced them with new ones, everything is simpler and high-quality spare parts - changed and forgotten by 100-150-200 thousand km., and we have cheap China all around, and even that basement self-collection, so we save, we put the original, or rather our old boot, but original, only because this used original boot runs at times, or even dozens of times longer than a new one, what is in auto markets and auto stores
a simple example, replacing the front engine mount - according to the technology there is a very long time, in real life everything is simple, unscrewed, jacked up, changed, removed from the jack, EVERYTHING and so much

and I knock out the steering ones with hammer blows on the end of the lever, and I do not damage the boot with the steering puller! He probably crushed it and replaced it, but no words about it!

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In order to carry out a scheduled technical inspection, the owner of a Volkswagen Passat B3 turned to our car service. The order sheet, in addition to the scheduled inspection, indicates the diagnosis of the chassis and steering. The owner has suspicions about the inoperability of the above system. Among other works - replacement of consumables, lubricants, cleaning filters. According to primary signs, there was a knock in the front axle area, stiffness in the steering wheel when operating a technical device.

Since in our activities we do not rely only on the testimony of car owners, the workshop technicians will conduct visual diagnostics in order to objectively assess the situation, identify a breakdown, its location, and calculate the number of necessary spare parts.

The car was manufactured between 1988 and 1993. in Germany. Bodywork variations are standard: sedan and station wagon. The range of engines is wide, gasoline and diesel engines with volumes from 1.6 to 2.8 liters in top-end configurations, depending on technical characteristics. The preference was given to the diesel unit. Despite the fact that the model was discontinued a long time ago, the struggle for it in the secondary market does not diminish. The model turned out to be great, in every sense of the word.

The list of primary signs is quite wide, it makes no sense to list all the properties, but those that are most characteristic should be highlighted:

• stiffness of the steering wheel when operating a technical device;
• biting the steering column when rotating to the extreme left or right position;
• the presence of oily smudges on the body of the mechanism;
• knocking when driving on uneven surfaces;
• beating, vibrations at speeds over 80 km / h.

The list is not exhaustive, but the properties are sufficient for the owner to pay attention to the malfunction and visit the workshop for repair work.

1. Low pressure or insufficient amount of oil in the hydraulic system.
2. Long-term operation without intermediate repairs, prevention, when the internal parts have become completely unusable and can no longer perform their functions.
3. Third-party mechanical damage to the unit as a whole, which leads to depressurization and lubricant leakage.
4. Breakage of an adjacent unit, which entails failure of the steering rack.
5. Poor previous repairs, which caused the formation of backlash, beating.
6. Installation of low-quality parts that do not meet standards and manufacturing technology.
7. Another reason not included in the general list.

After placing the car in the perimeter of the repair area, the foreman begins the inspection.Initially checks the steering column from the passenger compartment. Particular attention is paid to its integrity, performance, all defects and inconsistencies are recorded for analysis. The connection of the axle shaft and the steering column at the bottom (from the passenger compartment) is subject to inspection.

At the end, the master goes to the engine compartment. Since it is impractical to inspect in the transport position, an electric lifting mechanism is used to provide access from under the vehicle's bottom. In the area of ​​the front axle, on the left, there is free space for manipulating the steering rack.

The entire mechanism as a whole is subject to inspection, starting from two rubber boots, ending with fasteners. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the steering gear. It often happens that insufficient fixation of the fastening bolts leads to the formation of beating, vibrations, although the rail itself is absolutely intact and does not need to be repaired. The owners are trying to fix something that doesn't need it at all.

The whole procedure is divided into the following blocks:

• dismantling;
• parsing, cleaning, drying;
• diagnostics;
• assembly;
• testing at the stand;
• installation.

So, initially, the master unscrews the connection located inside the cabin, thus disconnecting the axle shaft from the steering column. Then he lifts the car with a lift and unscrews the fasteners to the body. However, you should not remove the rail from the seat, since you need to unscrew the ends of the steering rods. Only then can you start removing the part from under the car.

The rail is fixed in a stationary vise, and a full disassembly continues. All parts are put into a special container, and then sent to the sink using an ultrasonic bath of the "Ultron" type.

Upon completion of the washing and drying stage, the master re-conducts flaw detection, replaces worn parts with new ones, prepares them for assembly.

After the rack is assembled, the master sends it for testing using a special high-pressure stand. The working conditions are close to real ones, which allows you to see the actions of the reiki in advance in advance. If inconsistencies are recorded, the part is subject to revision. Otherwise, the control mechanism is completely installed in its original place. Testing is carried out on a car, the technical device is being prepared for delivery to the customer, provided that there are no third-party breakdowns and scheduled repairs.

This completes the repair procedure. The average service life is 80-100 thousand km. However, in practice, the mileage is much lower, since few people adhere to the basic rules and recommendations for servicing a technical facility.

Our prices are not the lowest in the city, as we do not save on quality. At the same time, we have created a system for the most transparent pricing. Before starting the repair, a detailed cost estimate is created, where it is clearly visible what the client is paying for. We do not have any additional postscripts that have not been agreed in advance.

Repair of a steering rack VW Passat b3, removal and installation.