Do-it-yourself Passat B3 steering rack repair

We will demonstrate how to repair the TRW steering rack from a VW Passat B3 car (VW Passat B3) with our own hands. Repairs will be made using a standard repair kit, which can be ordered from exist.

The steering rack at first leaked a little, every month the smudges only increased, the steering wheel became tight, especially when it was cold, and the power steering reservoir was empty. It was decided not to aggravate the situation, but to carry out repairs on their own.

From 2 minutes it is shown how to remove the steering rack.
4:27 dismantling the steering rack.
14:37 steering rack assembly.

An important note about the error in the video. After you have installed the rail into the housing with an internal oil seal and a plastic ring, you should not pull it back out, as was the case in our case, in order to fill in oil, so you can easily damage the oil seal with teeth.

TRW steering rack repair video in VW Passat B3:

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still in the process of writing
This report is made up of material iva99380798(For what to it many thanks.) Well and the gag.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and indications on the borrowed pictures, because information taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. =1#post2068729

Background.
For some time now I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. At what, it is not dependent on a straight line or with the turned out wheels. And recently a leak of the rail itself has been added

Story.

Since it’s not quite a hunt to walk on foot, I began to look for a rail in a non-working condition. The guys gave me exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its belonging to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is what it looks like on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I will try .
Having found the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here we have such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to remove the slats.

First, we climb under the torpedo on the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's legs.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rail (a bolt with an eccentric and a turnkey nut for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the interior work.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the rotary levers.

Then remove the protective cover / boot from the driver's side

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, under it is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the appearance of a 12-tihedron, for which a head of 10 with 12 faces was bought. Immediately unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I crawled under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Next, I unscrewed the supply of slurry to the rail, the bolt for 22 + 2 washers (do not lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the return flow of the slurry - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Now everything is released, we pull out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I did not remove the wheels, only jacked up on this side)
And here is a miracle in the hands

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they are twisted.
Next, remove the dusters . It is better to prepare the place in advance, because. hedgehog a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the tie rods, I had one near death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I wouldn’t even think about it.

1.Next, we pin on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tightens the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we are trying to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. We remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Next, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/URL] and pull out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm I changed:
1 oil seal and one o-ring on the sleeve with bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
there are 4 white rings on the shaft itself and 4 black ones under them. Lubricate everything with slurry and set aside until assembly.

We move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We will need to remove the retaining ring (a little higher in the photo it has already been removed). We put the rail on the “priest” and dragging / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem ( 1 ), bushing ( 2 ), and the shaft itself.

We take stock. On it we change the sealing ring and the stuffing box
Next, on the sleeve, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We are troubleshooting it. I have a shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on one side.
On the shaft, we change 1 white sealing ring. Now we put all this aside until assembly and take hold of the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft), take the head for 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and with a light blow we knock out the oil seal and bushing, which are located approximately in the middle of the body. Here they are:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put the stuffing box and bushing on the shaft and bushing and insert all this “household” into the body. Then we insert the bushing and stem, and put the retaining ring in place. Then we collect everything else in reverse order.

According to the information that I found, it turns out that not everyone had a smooth overhaul. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals for the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I took them and went to once again tempt fate J .
Removed the rail again, disassembled, wiped everything. I removed the seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters considered:
1. The thickness of the stuffing box is the same, the difference is only in the installation of a nylon ring

2. Installation of a nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. The appearance of the work surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. Apparently it is designed to work under high pressure.
Here are some better pics:
On the first photo is the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th gland

Hence the conclusion that for our rail the gland with the number 140 NOT SUITABLE, seal must be ordered with number 155

Video replacement steering rack boot Volkswagen Passat B3 B4

Replacing the anther, steering rack with power steering, or rather the replacement of the tie rod anther Volkswagen Passat B3, video.

The tie rod boot, especially on steering racks with power steering, is a very necessary thing and you should always try to check their integrity.

This is especially true for our cars, time, high mileage do their job, sometimes "try» wheel alignment masters, who, due to laziness or ignorance, or maybe on purpose, do not loosen the clamp on the tie rod anther and twist the anther, the anther then cracks, lets dust and moisture through, over time, the steering rack with power steering and from behind such a seemingly unimportant detail — we change the steering rack with power steering.

There are many different ways to replace the steering rack tie rod boot with power steering on a Volkswagen Passat B3 B4 car, one of them is in the video.

If you have any questions or additions, please feel free to write in the comments.

Video replacing the anther of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3

Video uploaded with the permission of the author Dr944S2.

Vitaly, ok, let's hope the weather is nice

Okay, I'll have some free time tomorrow, I'll do it. If only there was no rain, there is no garage with a pit. I'm just planning on doing it next year.

Vitaly, you need to go to the viewing hole and listen to where exactly the whistle / roar comes from, so as not to disassemble and change unnecessary nodes
listen, write back, please

Good evening! I fixed the rail, everything worked out. The power steering belt was replaced, but the whistle problem did not go away. Only now it doesn’t whistle, but “growls” not only in extreme positions, but also between them. Can you tell me where to start checking the hydraulics? Maybe the problem is in the rail, disassemble, wash and put in a new repair kit? Or is it the pump? But if the pulley slips, then the channels may be clogged, or the hollow tracking system does not beat off or the pressure reducing valve. I will be grateful for any info.

Vitalyok 🙂

Yes, I will definitely post. Only three months later, I'm on watch. Thanks for the tip!

Vitaly, the steering rack of the power steering is attached with two clamps to the car body, it must stand still relative to the body, in the figure in the article on this site "steering rack ZF Volkswagen Passat b3" under №10 and rubber under №11 (two pieces)
power steering belt needs to be tightened
write back later please

Hello! When turning the steering wheel, the power steering belt whistles. Oil is normal. Before a business trip, I discovered that the steering rack moves in one direction or another, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel. Should the rack be stationary? How many rail attachment points? Thanks!

Yuri, I now have TRW steering rack anthers installed, almost 100 thousand km have already passed, so far they are normal
I personally did not lubricate anything, I installed such as they were in the box

Admin please tell me which file is better to put, trw, lemfor.etc the old one broke pass.b4 94r.

oleg, showdown, it's like "Russian roulette"

So now I'm in even greater doubt!))))) Did this rail come from Germany? or removed from the local "corpse"! in Germany, they wouldn’t change the boot like that! it is a fact! what a marvelous “tool” they have! the Germans have it! We are envious!

oleg, I completely agree, because it is not in vain that they say that eyes are afraid, but hands do
and that it is impossible to hand over the rail from the meal back? we have two weeks
about the rail - well, that's the problem, that one, and without the appropriate equipment, so you have to figure out how to do it yourself and take it apart less
anthers - there are two types of them, some are directly attached to the steering rod (the diameter is almost the same as that of the rod), there are others through a rubber spacer (the diameter of the anther is larger, so they put on the spacer, and then the anther is on top
well, our craftsmen also get out of the situation as best they can

and more jokes! when I bought a rail from the meal, I brought it to the garage to look at the anther on the steering rods, some unusual! It turns out some craftsman changed them like that. )))) cut off the front of the anther. planted a new one, tucked it into the old one, without any clamps. like this ! such a replacement!)))))))))) I saved on anthers did not have to buy! cut off the old one, and the new one fell just right!

I watched a "terrible" video of how the steering racks are dismantled. unscrewing the subframe and lowering the engine! and I thought, if I do this, I’ll screw it all back alone! scratched the back of his head and pulled it out in an easier way. ))) unscrewed all the mountings of the steering rack with hoses. unscrewed the ball joints. unscrewed the suspension arm on the left, the lever moved to the side! pressed the transverse lever pipe! and literally a couple of millimeters are missing for the rail to come out! and interferes with the elbow of the exhaust pipe. put the jack under the gearbox literally by 10 mm lifted the slope of the rack appeared and it came out freely! also in the reverse order everything went back! everything and everything and everything!

I also dismantled mine! flowed in all projections! ran to the meal bought native amno, rolled off a lot of money! and then I took mine apart, and it’s in better condition than from the meal, if not to say that it’s almost perfect! Now I’m sitting and thinking (what a pity for the money.)! Tomorrow I'll go buy a repair kit and repair it myself! when he turned everything in his hands, it seems much easier than on the "terrible" videos!

oleg, I am not arguing or judging, I just said about your question about the video and about the German, nothing more
for example, before doing something, what I personally have never done before, I often watch different videos, just to understand what and how, of course, what I can do differently later, since everyone has different conditions
anthers - yes, he simply replaced them with new ones, everything is simpler and of high quality - they changed and forgot for 100-150-200 thousand km., And we have cheap China all around, and even that basement self collection, so we save, we put the original, or rather our old anther, but the original one, only because this used original anther lasts many times, or even tens of times longer than the new one, what is in the auto markets and auto stores
a simple example, replacing the front engine mount - according to the technology, it takes a very long time, in real life everything is simple, unscrewed, jacked up, changed, removed from the jack, EVERYTHING and so much

and I knock out the steering ones with hammer blows on the end of the lever, and not damage the anther with a steering puller! He probably crushed it and replaced it, but this is not a word!

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In order to conduct a scheduled technical inspection, the owner of a Volkswagen Passat B3 turned to our car service. The order sheet, in addition to the scheduled inspection, indicates the diagnostics of the chassis and steering. The owner has suspicions about the inoperability of the above system. Among other works - the replacement of consumables, lubricants, cleaning filters. According to the primary signs - there was a knock in the front axle area, tightness in the steering wheel when driving a technical tool.

Since in our activities we do not rely only on the testimony of car owners, the service station masters will conduct visual diagnostics in order to objectively assess the situation, identify a breakdown, its location, and calculate the number of necessary spare parts.

The car was manufactured between 1988 and 1993. on the territory of Germany. Variations of the body part are standard: sedan and station wagon. The range of engines is wide, gasoline and diesel engines with volumes from 1.6 to 2.8 liters in top trim levels, depending on the technical specifications. The advantage was given to the diesel unit. Despite the fact that the model was discontinued a long time ago, the struggle for it in the secondary market does not decrease. The model turned out well, in every sense of the word.

The list of primary features is quite wide, it makes no sense to list all the properties, but it is necessary to highlight those that are most characteristic:

• stiffness of the steering wheel when driving a technical means;
• biting of the steering column when rotating to the extreme left or right position;
• the presence of oily smudges on the mechanism case;
• knocking when driving on uneven surfaces;
• beating, vibration at speeds over 80 km / h.

The list is not exhaustive, but the properties are enough for the owner to pay attention to the malfunction and visit the service station for repair work.

1. Low pressure or insufficient amount of oil in the hydraulic system.
2. Long-term operation without intermediate repairs, prevention, when the internal parts have become completely unusable and can no longer perform their functions.
3. Third-party mechanical damage to the unit as a whole, which leads to depressurization and leakage of lubricant.
4. Breakage of an adjacent node, which entails the failure of the steering rack.
5. Poorly carried out previous repairs, which caused the formation of backlash, beating.
6. Installation of low-quality parts that do not meet standards and manufacturing technology.
7. Any other reason not included in the general list.

After placing the car in the perimeter of the repair area, the master begins the inspection.Initially checks the steering column from the passenger compartment. Particular attention is paid to its integrity, performance, all defects and inconsistencies are recorded for analysis. The connection of the axial shaft and the steering column at the bottom (from the passenger compartment) is subject to verification.

At the end, the master goes to the engine compartment. Since it is not practical to carry out inspection in the transport position, an electric lifting mechanism is used to provide access from under the bottom of the vehicle. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe front axle, on the left, there is free space for manipulating the steering rack.

The entire mechanism as a whole is subject to verification, starting from two rubber anthers, ending with fasteners. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the steering gear. It often happens that insufficient fixation of the mounting bolts leads to the formation of beats, vibrations, although the rail itself is absolutely intact and does not need to be repaired. The owners are trying to fix something that does not need it at all.

The whole procedure is divided into the following blocks:

• dismantling;
• parsing, cleaning, drying;
• diagnostics;
• assembly;
• bench testing;
• installation.

So, initially, the master unscrews the connection located inside the cabin, thus disconnecting the axial shaft from the steering column. Then he lifts the car with a lift and unscrews the fasteners to the body. However, the rail should not be removed from the seat, since the tie rod ends must be unscrewed. Only then can you begin to remove the part from under the car.

The rail is fixed in a stationary vice, a complete analysis continues. All parts are put into a special container, after which they are sent to the sink using an ultrasonic bath of the Ultron type.

Upon completion of the washing and drying phase, the foreman re-performs flaw detection, replaces worn parts with new ones, and prepares for assembly.

After the rail is assembled, the master sends it for testing using a special high-pressure stand. The working conditions are close to real, which allows you to see in advance the actions of the rail in work. If discrepancies are recorded, the part is subject to revision. Otherwise, the entire control mechanism is installed in its original place. Testing is carried out on a car, the technical tool is being prepared for delivery to the customer, provided there are no third-party breakdowns and scheduled repairs.

This completes the repair process. The average service life is 80-100 thousand km. However, in practice, the mileage is much lower, since few people adhere to the basic rules and recommendations for servicing a technical tool.

Our prices are not the lowest in the city, as we do not save on quality. At the same time, we have created a system of the most transparent price formation. Before the start of the repair, a detailed cost estimate is created, where it is clearly visible what the client pays money for. We do not have any additional additions that are not agreed in advance.

VW Passat b3 steering rack repair, removal and installation.