We put the stuffing box and bushing on the shaft and bushing and insert all this “household” into the body. Then we insert the bushing and stem, and put the retaining ring in place. Then we collect everything else in reverse order.
According to the information that I found, it turns out that not everyone had a smooth overhaul. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals for the shaft with a number 7852 033 155.
It appears that the parameters considered:
2. Installation of a nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland
on the second 155th gland
Hence the conclusion that for our rail the gland with the number 140 NOT SUITABLE, seal must be ordered with number 155
Video replacement steering rack boot Volkswagen Passat B3 B4
Replacing the anther, steering rack with power steering, or rather the replacement of the tie rod anther Volkswagen Passat B3, video.
The tie rod boot, especially on steering racks with power steering, is a very necessary thing and you should always try to check their integrity.
This is especially true for our cars, time, high mileage do their job, sometimes "try » wheel alignment masters, who, due to laziness or ignorance, or maybe on purpose, do not loosen the clamp on the tie rod anther and twist the anther, the anther then cracks, lets dust and moisture through, over time, the steering rack with power steering and from behind such a seemingly unimportant detail — we change the steering rack with power steering.
There are many different ways to replace the steering rack tie rod boot with power steering on a Volkswagen Passat B3 B4 car, one of them is in the video.
If you have any questions or additions, please feel free to write in the comments.
Video replacing the anther of the steering rack Volkswagen Passat B3
Video uploaded with the permission of the author Dr944S2 .
Vitaly, ok, let's hope the weather is nice
Okay, I'll have some free time tomorrow, I'll do it. If only there was no rain, there is no garage with a pit. I'm just planning on doing it next year.
Vitaly , you need to go to the viewing hole and listen to where exactly the whistle / roar comes from, so as not to disassemble and change unnecessary nodes
Good evening! I fixed the rail, everything worked out. The power steering belt was replaced, but the whistle problem did not go away. Only now it doesn’t whistle, but “growls” not only in extreme positions, but also between them. Can you tell me where to start checking the hydraulics? Maybe the problem is in the rail, disassemble, wash and put in a new repair kit? Or is it the pump? But if the pulley slips, then the channels may be clogged, or the hollow tracking system does not beat off or the pressure reducing valve. I will be grateful for any info.
Vitaly ok 🙂
Yes, I will definitely post. Only three months later, I'm on watch. Thanks for the tip!
Vitaly, the steering rack of the power steering is attached with two clamps to the car body, it must stand still relative to the body, in the figure in the article on this site "steering rack ZF Volkswagen Passat b3" under №10 and rubber under №11 (two pieces)
Hello! When turning the steering wheel, the power steering belt whistles. Oil is normal. Before a business trip, I discovered that the steering rack moves in one direction or another, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel. Should the rack be stationary? How many rail attachment points? Thanks!
Yuri, I now have TRW steering rack anthers installed, almost 100 thousand km have already passed, so far they are normal
Admin please tell me which file is better to put, trw, lemfor.etc the old one broke pass.b4 94r.
oleg , showdown, it's like "Russian roulette"
So now I'm in even greater doubt!))))) Did this rail come from Germany? or removed from the local "corpse"! in Germany, they wouldn’t change the boot like that! it is a fact! what a marvelous “tool” they have! the Germans have it! We are envious!
oleg, I completely agree, because it is not in vain that they say that eyes are afraid, but hands do
and more jokes! when I bought a rail from the meal, I brought it to the garage to look at the anther on the steering rods, some unusual! It turns out some craftsman changed them like that. )))) cut off the front of the anther. planted a new one, tucked it into the old one, without any clamps. like this ! such a replacement!)))))))))) I saved on anthers did not have to buy! cut off the old one, and the new one fell just right!
I watched a "terrible" video of how the steering racks are dismantled. unscrewing the subframe and lowering the engine! and I thought, if I do this, I’ll screw it all back alone! scratched the back of his head and pulled it out in an easier way. ))) unscrewed all the mountings of the steering rack with hoses. unscrewed the ball joints. unscrewed the suspension arm on the left, the lever moved to the side! pressed the transverse lever pipe! and literally a couple of millimeters are missing for the rail to come out! and interferes with the elbow of the exhaust pipe. put the jack under the gearbox literally by 10 mm lifted the slope of the rack appeared and it came out freely! also in the reverse order everything went back! everything and everything and everything!
I also dismantled mine! flowed in all projections! ran to the meal bought native amno, rolled off a lot of money! and then I took mine apart, and it’s in better condition than from the meal, if not to say that it’s almost perfect! Now I’m sitting and thinking (what a pity for the money.)! Tomorrow I'll go buy a repair kit and repair it myself! when he turned everything in his hands, it seems much easier than on the "terrible" videos!
oleg, I am not arguing or judging, I just said about your question about the video and about the German, nothing more basement self collection , so we save, we put the original, or rather our old anther, but the original one, only because this used original anther lasts many times, or even tens of times longer than the new one, what is in the auto markets and auto stores
and I knock out the steering ones with hammer blows on the end of the lever, and not damage the anther with a steering puller! He probably crushed it and replaced it, but this is not a word!
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In order to conduct a scheduled technical inspection, the owner of a Volkswagen Passat B3 turned to our car service. The order sheet, in addition to the scheduled inspection, indicates the diagnostics of the chassis and steering. The owner has suspicions about the inoperability of the above system. Among other works - the replacement of consumables, lubricants, cleaning filters. According to the primary signs - there was a knock in the front axle area, tightness in the steering wheel when driving a technical tool.
Since in our activities we do not rely only on the testimony of car owners, the service station masters will conduct visual diagnostics in order to objectively assess the situation, identify a breakdown, its location, and calculate the number of necessary spare parts.
The car was manufactured between 1988 and 1993. on the territory of Germany. Variations of the body part are standard: sedan and station wagon. The range of engines is wide, gasoline and diesel engines with volumes from 1.6 to 2.8 liters in top trim levels, depending on the technical specifications. The advantage was given to the diesel unit. Despite the fact that the model was discontinued a long time ago, the struggle for it in the secondary market does not decrease. The model turned out well, in every sense of the word.
The list of primary features is quite wide, it makes no sense to list all the properties, but it is necessary to highlight those that are most characteristic:
stiffness of the steering wheel when driving a technical means;
biting of the steering column when rotating to the extreme left or right position;
the presence of oily smudges on the mechanism case;
knocking when driving on uneven surfaces;
beating, vibration at speeds over 80 km / h.
The list is not exhaustive, but the properties are enough for the owner to pay attention to the malfunction and visit the service station for repair work.
Low pressure or insufficient amount of oil in the hydraulic system.
Long-term operation without intermediate repairs, prevention, when the internal parts have become completely unusable and can no longer perform their functions.
Third-party mechanical damage to the unit as a whole, which leads to depressurization and leakage of lubricant.
Breakage of an adjacent node, which entails the failure of the steering rack.
Poorly carried out previous repairs, which caused the formation of backlash, beating.
Installation of low-quality parts that do not meet standards and manufacturing technology.
Any other reason not included in the general list.
After placing the car in the perimeter of the repair area, the master begins the inspection.Initially checks the steering column from the passenger compartment. Particular attention is paid to its integrity, performance, all defects and inconsistencies are recorded for analysis. The connection of the axial shaft and the steering column at the bottom (from the passenger compartment) is subject to verification.
The entire mechanism as a whole is subject to verification, starting from two rubber anthers, ending with fasteners. Particular attention should be paid to the tightness of the steering gear. It often happens that insufficient fixation of the mounting bolts leads to the formation of beats, vibrations, although the rail itself is absolutely intact and does not need to be repaired. The owners are trying to fix something that does not need it at all.
The whole procedure is divided into the following blocks:
dismantling;
parsing, cleaning, drying;
diagnostics;
assembly;
bench testing;
installation.
So, initially, the master unscrews the connection located inside the cabin, thus disconnecting the axial shaft from the steering column. Then he lifts the car with a lift and unscrews the fasteners to the body. However, the rail should not be removed from the seat, since the tie rod ends must be unscrewed. Only then can you begin to remove the part from under the car.
Upon completion of the washing and drying phase, the foreman re-performs flaw detection, replaces worn parts with new ones, and prepares for assembly.
After the rail is assembled, the master sends it for testing using a special high-pressure stand. The working conditions are close to real, which allows you to see in advance the actions of the rail in work. If discrepancies are recorded, the part is subject to revision. Otherwise, the entire control mechanism is installed in its original place. Testing is carried out on a car, the technical tool is being prepared for delivery to the customer, provided there are no third-party breakdowns and scheduled repairs.
This completes the repair process. The average service life is 80-100 thousand km. However, in practice, the mileage is much lower, since few people adhere to the basic rules and recommendations for servicing a technical tool.
Our prices are not the lowest in the city, as we do not save on quality. At the same time, we have created a system of the most transparent price formation. Before the start of the repair, a detailed cost estimate is created, where it is clearly visible what the client pays money for. We do not have any additional additions that are not agreed in advance.
VW Passat b3 steering rack repair, removal and installation.
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Passat B3. Steering rack replacement. Addition. Homemade anther of the steering shaft cardan
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Power steering pump replacement for vw passat b3
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Replacing the oil seal on the steering rack Passat B5 and Audi A4.
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The procedure is applicable for cars:
Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994 Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997
information applicable to repair and other vehicles
For work, you will need keys for 13,17,19,22 and a gas key or its equivalent, a pair of plastic ties to secure the covers, We raise the front of the car to the pads and securely fix it for those who have a pit, it will be easier for them, but I changed without a pit.
Loosen the tie rod ends
Strong and precise. release thrust with a blow
Lifting the cover, unscrew and select the bolt. which holds the connection of the steering shaft cardan with the rack
Next, we dive under the car and, to facilitate manipulation, remove the gravity cap
We unscrew the four bolts holding the rail, unscrewing them, remove the brackets holding the rail, the bolts are not selected.
Unclench the cardan and remove it
I didn’t succeed in completely pulling out the rail with the tips, maybe I didn’t have enough ingenuity, therefore, alternately sticking the rail out in one direction or the other, we unscrew the rods. Pulling off the cover and holding the hinge with a gas wrench, unscrew the lock nut, then unscrew the hinge itself with the rod
Now the most important thing when screwing the hinges of the rods, do not screw them up to the end by 10-13 turns, otherwise there will not be enough threads on the steering rods, in the second golf, on the contrary, you need to wind it up to the end.
Therefore, when I discovered that one of my covers was torn, I did not hesitate to put a cover on the golf rail. And I almost forgot to put some suitable lubricant into the rail.
We assemble in the reverse order and MANDATORY visit the alignment-camber adjustment in the service
Reiki bought from this office
And I put the grease on both sides on the rod, I think it will slowly tighten it up and also smeared the tie rod joints themselves well inside. Maybe someone will say that in vain, they say they lubricated at the factory and that's enough, but I just can't do otherwise.
The steering racks of the Golf 2-3 and the Passat B3 are different, to make sure it is enough to disassemble and compare.
And in appearance it is difficult to distinguish (if the numbers are not readable).
I rode with different rails (I have 4 of them), including from the Volkswagen Golf 2. The Golf one is 15 mm shorter. (approximately), but the situation can be corrected. A small "eversion" can almost reach the trade wind by shifting the internal hinges of the rods. On the removed rack (without steering rods), we push the right edge all the way inward (where the sleeve is pressed in). After we wind the right lock nut until it rests on the sleeve. We unscrew the rail to the middle position and screw the left lock nut to the same depth. Do not forget to put 2-3 drops of blue threadlocker on the degreased thread surface. After we wind the traction ourselves and counter. The number of turns on the steering wheel will be less, somewhere around 3.5 versus 4.5 trade winds, but in real life it will not differ much due to the different inclination of the rack teeth.
Continuation and all discussions of the report here
How can I find the information I need? Deciphering the factory equipment of the car (English) Decoding the factory equipment VAG in Russian! Diagnostics Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat, error codes.
If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car. With a high degree of probability, information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car.
The Volkswagen Passat B3, first introduced to the general public in 1988, was no longer a family car, like its predecessor, the B2, but was a mid-size city car for the middle class. In other words, it has become more versatile, which is reflected not only in its appearance, but also in the design features of the chassis.
Passat B3 is reliable, durable, easy to operate and, despite its venerable age (its production was discontinued in 1993), remains safe. Last, the quality is entirely the merit of the chassis and steering system of this car.
On the first cars of this series, the steering system was a mechanical rack, that is, its design was as simple as possible.By turning the steering wheel, the driver set in motion the steering rack, on the lower end of which the control gear is rigidly attached. Its rotation by means of a gear train is converted into a translational movement (left or right, depending on the direction of rotation of the steering wheel) of the rack. The tips connected to it with the help of bearings also come into motion. The latter carry out the rotation of the front wheels of the car. This design has been around for more than a hundred years, however, it remains the most reliable, and therefore the most popular for cars of all types.
In the simplicity of the control rail lies the main secret of its reliability. But besides the main secret, there are two more: the accuracy of adjustment of all components of the mechanism and the quality and strength of the steel from which its parts are made.
IMPORTANT! Only original Volkswagen components are able to once again ensure the durability and quality of the steering mechanism, if necessary, repair the steering rack on the Volkswagen Passat B3.
The need for repair may arise when the rail or some of its parts are worn, or if they break.
The first sign of all rail malfunctions is the appearance of backlash. There can be several reasons for its formation - from the natural wear of the mechanism as a result of a high vehicle mileage or insufficient lubrication, to improper engagement of the gear with the toothed part of the rack, violation of the crankcase attachment or failure of the steering rod bearings. The answer to this question is given by a complete diagnosis of the entire steering system of the car. This is a rather complicated procedure that requires dismantling and disassembling the rail, so it can take a long time.
After the location of the backlash is established by the master - and it can form in any of the nodes of the rack mechanism - a method for eliminating it is determined. The backlash at the stage of its occurrence can be defeated by the procedure for tightening all the components of the mechanism, but, given the age of the car, this victory is unlikely to be complete and final, and after a while this malfunction will appear again, but to a much greater extent. Therefore, it makes sense to replace especially worn rail parts with new ones, and then forget about the problem for at least another tens of thousands of kilometers.
A knock or rattle is another signal by which the rail reports its malfunction. If the knock appeared gradually, starting with barely audible clicks that occur when the steering wheel is turned, and intensified over time, then most likely the reasons for its occurrence are the same: wear of parts. If a loud knock in the area of \u200b\u200bthe front axle of the car formed suddenly and it was accompanied by difficulties in turning the steering wheel, then it is quite possible that this is evidence of a more serious malfunction - deformation or even breakage of one of the steering gear teeth. There can be no two opinions: the broken part will have to be replaced.
The answer to the question, with which particular part of the mechanism the trouble occurred, will also be given by the rail diagnostics.
IMPORTANT! After replacement of failed parts and reassembly, the rail must be adjusted on the test stand.
Here, operating conditions are simulated for it, and with the help of electronic measuring instruments, the exact angles of rotation of the tips are set when exposed to the rail.
Adjusting the connection of wheels with tips is carried out after installing the rail on the car. This procedure is one of the key in the repair of the car's steering system, and its accuracy determines how efficiently this system will continue to work.
If we are talking about the Volkswagen Passat B3 produced after 1990, then a power steering (GUR) was added to its steering system. Many believe that its purpose is solely to compensate for the effort expended by the driver to turn the steering wheel. Yes, this is its main purpose, but not the only one.The hydraulic booster also absorbs shocks to the steering column that occur when the car is moving on rough roads. Thus, the power steering not only facilitates the process of driving a car, but also helps to reduce the wear of its rail parts.
But any medal, like
So, at some point, leaving the parking lot, you find that the steering wheel of the car turns harder than usual, and a small oily puddle remains on the pavement under the front axle. And all that was required was to replace a torn oil seal a couple of days ago. However, it will not be too late to do this even when all the liquid flows out of the power steering. The main thing is not to forget to fill it again after repair.
IMPORTANT! Any malfunction of the steering rack negatively affects the handling of the car. Therefore, at the slightest suspicion of its breakdown, do not delay contacting a car service. The Passat B3 steering rack, the price of which is quite high, must be repaired on time, otherwise replacement costs cannot be avoided.
VIDEO
The procedure is applicable for cars:
Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997 Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994
information is suitable for repair and other cars.
Good afternoon forum users vwts! I decided to share my experience of replacing the tie rod, because. backlash was found in the tip and the ball mechanism of thrust near the rail !!
2) Unscrew the tip nut under 19.
3) Using a puller, remove the thrust.
5) We unscrew the rod from the rail, the key is of a non-standard size, I had to use an adjustable wrench. When you unscrew the rod from the rail, you need to hold the rail by a special grip for the open-end wrench 14 or 17, failure to comply with this condition is fraught with premature death of the rail
6) The rod is unscrewed, we check the backlash of the rail.
7) Checking the Germans, there is lubrication.
8) Screw the rod into place.
9) We put on anther, there is a feature. A tube with air comes to the anther, for this tube in the anther there is a place where it needs to be inserted, it is not very easy to do this, but it is possible !!
10) Tighten the anther with ties.
11) We fasten the tip of the thrust.
12) We make wheel alignment adjustment.
I changed the steering rod on the right side in the same way, with some changes: to make it easier to get to the steering rack, I released the front suspension transverse arm: 1. Disconnected the ball from the steering knuckle (bolt with nut by 17, and unscrew the bolt by 17 to pull out the previous bolt) 2 Unscrewed the stabilizer (jet thrust) - 17 nut (twist carefully, I turned the rack). 3. Unscrewed the bolt on 19 of the front silent block 4. Loosen the bolt on 19 of the rear silent block The entire lever was dragged back (the rear silent block was used as the axis of rotation)
To unscrew the tie rod, I took the key to 32 (for the tie rod) and the gas key (for the rack). Here they wrote about a special grip on a turnkey rail for 14 or 17 - I didn’t find it, I had to use a daw (the book says that a vice is used).
Video (click to play).
About the special rail grip. Rail TRW, that is, an American, special. the grip is located on the left side of the thrust under the open-end wrench at 19, maybe it will come in handy for someone.
