DIY Peugeot 308 steering rack repair

Pyzhevod active 😉 / Peugeot - 307

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

as indicated in the instruction manual:

periodically hush up all parts associated with the pusher
a) Lubricate all the parts of the rack bar stop with G13 grease (is it possible with lithol or what domestic analogue?)
b) Install the pusher
c) Tighten the stop nut to a torque of 10Nm (1kg)
d) Adjust the clearances, i.e. mark with a punch A, B, C and relax until B and C are aligned

questions:
1. Why change the parts of the pusher periodically?
2. What can be with the old pusher, if when tightening its backlash disappears, the steering wheel returns, then there is a knock. - is it worth changing the pusher to a new one?
3. a - do all parts of the pusher need to be lubricated and with what kind of grease?

Flamer Beginner / Peogeot - 307

I quote:
Steering Rack - knock elimination

A couple of years ago I was pestering Reika with a knock, what I was doing:

The following solution was chosen.
A bit of theory:
The rail is pressed against the worm through the stop, it consists of
1. Emphasis
2. Damper
3. Nut
In the released state, the damper is L = 19mm, the nut is pressed, 19mm = = 15mm, if you pull further, the nut rests against the stop and the rail
clamped, the elasticity of the damper in this range is none, you can remove and try.
There are two thrust bushings in the body, the rail runs on the right, it does not even seem to the left, because the rail is pressed against the worm, and there is always a gap between the rail and the left bushing.
When driving over bumps, the rail is squeezed out of the worm, and knocks on the left sleeve, on the worm.
Also, the release of the rack from the worm occurs when the steering wheel rotates, because the gearing.
The damper is a toy rubber band.

What did you do:
We take a clutch disc from a classic (well-worn), there are 6 springs, two of them are slightly softer, we take a soft
At the spring we cut the turns to L = 17, at the cut turn we level the plane on emery.
We collect:
-Insert the stop (it can be anointed with grease)
-Spring, good end to stop.
-washer to cut end
-Nut (there is a protrusion on it, put a washer on the protrusion of the cambric, on the cambric a spring with a cut end, it turns out a "single" nut with a spring,
otherwise everything falls apart)
we begin to tighten the nut, and pull the steering rod as soon as the backlash is gone,
We still move 2 degrees and EVERYTHING. do not overtighten.
——————————————————————–
The spring is very stiff, but has a 1-3 mm stroke of soft compression, which is what we need to compress the rail,
these 2-3 mm choose a gap without clamping the rail and do not allow biting the rail in extreme positions (if there is wear in the rail),
at the same time, the RIGIDITY of the spring does not allow squeezing the rail from the worm when driving
over bumps, leaving the steering wheel light, which is what we need.

What do you think about this?

Pyzhevod active 😉 / Peugeot - 307

I quote:
Steering Rack - knock elimination

A couple of years ago I was pestering Reika with a knock, what I was doing:

The following solution was chosen.
A bit of theory:
The rail is pressed against the worm through the stop, it consists of
1. Emphasis
2. Damper
3. Nut
In the released state, the damper is L = 19mm, the nut is pressed, 19mm = = 15mm, if you pull further, the nut rests against the stop and the rail
clamped, the elasticity of the damper in this range is none, you can remove and try.
There are two thrust bushings in the body, the rail runs on the right, it does not even seem to the left, because the rail is pressed against the worm, and there is always a gap between the rail and the left bushing.
When driving over bumps, the rail is squeezed out of the worm, and knocks on the left sleeve, on the worm.
Also, the release of the rack from the worm occurs when the steering wheel rotates, because the gearing.
The damper is a toy rubber band.

What did you do:
We take a clutch disc from a classic (well-worn), there are 6 springs, two of them are slightly softer, we take a soft
At the spring we cut the turns to L = 17, at the cut turn we level the plane on emery.
We collect:
-Insert the stop (it can be anointed with grease)
-Spring, good end to stop.
-washer to cut end
-Nut (there is a protrusion on it, put a washer on the protrusion of the cambric, on the cambric a spring with a cut end, it turns out a "single" nut with a spring,
otherwise everything falls apart)
we begin to tighten the nut, and pull the steering rod as soon as the backlash is gone,
We still move 2 degrees and EVERYTHING. do not overtighten.
——————————————————————–
The spring is very stiff, but has a 1-3 mm stroke of soft compression, which is what we need to compress the rail,
these 2-3 mm choose a gap without clamping the rail and do not allow biting the rail in extreme positions (if there is wear in the rail),
at the same time, the RIGIDITY of the spring does not allow squeezing the rail from the worm when driving
over bumps, leaving the steering wheel light, which is what we need.

What do you think about this?

Hello everyone, who among our members of the forum did THIS with a rail.

P eugeot 308. STEERING

Rice. 8.2. Steering gear: 1 - left outer tip of the steering rod; 2 - left steering rod; 3.6 - protective covers; 4 - pinion shaft; 5 - steering gear housing; 7 - right steering rod; 8 - the right outer tip of the tie rod

Peugeot 308 cars in all trim levels are equipped with an electro-hydraulic power steering, a collapsible steering column, adjustable for reach and angle, and a pinion-rack type steering mechanism.

Steering of a car consists of a steering wheel, a steering column, a steering mechanism, an electric pump of a working fluid, two steering rods and their two ends, connected by ball joints to the steering knuckles of the front suspension.

The steering wheel is equipped with an airbag and a horn switch.

The steering column is non-traumatic, adjustable in tilt and reach, equipped with energy-absorbing elements that increase passive safety, and an anti-theft device that blocks the steering shaft 7 (Fig. 8.1). The intermediate steering shaft 2 is connected to the steering shaft and the shaft-pinion of the steering mechanism by cardan joints 1 and 3.

The intermediate shaft consists of an upper and a lower part, connected by pins. In the event of a frontal collision of the car with an obstacle as a result of shearing off the pins, the lower part of the intermediate shaft enters the upper part, which makes it possible to reduce the length of the intermediate shaft and thereby cause less damage to the driver.

Rice. 8.1. Steering column: 1 - lower cardan joint of the intermediate shaft; 2 - intermediate shaft; 3 - upper cardan joint of the intermediate shaft; 4 - steering column mounting bracket; 5 - lever for adjusting the position of the steering column; 6 - ignition switch (lock); 7 - steering shaft

The steering gear is installed in the engine compartment. The steering housing is attached to the front axle cross member.

Steering rods 2 (Fig. 8.2) and 7 are attached to the steering rack with ball joints. The ends 1 and 8 of the steering rods are connected to the steering knuckles of the front suspension by means of ball joints.

The pressure of the working fluid in the hydraulic booster is created by an electric pump, which is installed in the engine compartment. If the power steering fails, the vehicle is still able to steer, but the effort on the steering wheel increases.

POSSIBLE STEERING MALFUNCTIONS, THEIR CAUSES AND CORRECTIVE ACTIONS

Is registered: 23.09.2014
Posts: 247
Location: Togliatti,
Car: Peugeot 308 2009, 1.6L. EP6 French

Began to knock a little rail from the passenger side. 100t.km The mechanics at the station confirmed that there was very little knocking. The tips seem to be fine

I’m thinking - is it possible to repair the rail with a small cost with some kind of repair kit (tell me the number)? Or does it not help and should be replaced with large nodes right away?
Thanks!

Is registered: 23.09.2014
Posts: 247
Location: Togliatti,
Car: Peugeot 308 2009, 1.6L. EP6 French

So I never got repaired.

Tell me about the steering rack - does anyone have experience? - knocks on the right - and I hear the bumps and the mechanics said. All other suspension just recently refurbished

SdN
Old-timer

Age: 39
Is registered: 16.02.2016
Posts: 126
Location: Evpatoria
Car: Peugeot 308 AT 1.6 / 120 2011 restyle

Club of owners and fans of Peugeot 308, 308 SW, 308 CC, 408 and even RCZ

dimka86rus
Listen, situevina one to one! I, too, sin on the rail, although three services said that it was fine. What city are you from?

Added after 1 minute 15 seconds:
And, I see, Tyumen.

Added after 37 seconds:
that is, these are bones

Great, then it is necessary to write in the price lists that the PEUGEOT is a summer car and for the winter we ask you to buy a HUNDAI, since I had a Tucson with novya before and for seven years and 160 thousand there were no similar problems.
And so I called the hotline and the girl kicked me affectionately to the dealer, but I wrote them (at PEUGEOT) a letter.
Thanks for the answer, but I would need to fix the frosts for now, otherwise, like winter, you feel that you shouldn't have bought a Skoda Octavia. after all, a couple of neighbors are happy and do not blow a mustache

Added after 1 minute 51 seconds:
and you will understand what helped next winter. I will wait.

Added after 7 minutes 31 seconds:
Yes, there is a thought, if this is massive, then we need to collect 100 cars and come to them next winter. because PSA is fighting for our winter market. let ANSWER

French cars occupy the leading positions in the world ranking in terms of sales. They embody decent quality, affordable cost, durability.

If we talk about used models, then in terms of reliability they will in no way be inferior to German brands, which occupy the first places in their rating.

French engineers pay special attention to the "subcompact" class. This is due to the fact that the traffic in the country is quite dense and the state is forced to fight congestion by actively supporting the policy of producing small cars. It should be noted that they do it successfully.

According to the statistics of our workshop, Peugeot owners do not observe negative dynamics towards breakdowns. The car is characterized by a standard "set" of problems that are eliminated during scheduled maintenance. Often, it is necessary to replace consumables, filter elements, tighten the timing belt, check the lubrication level in the systems, repair the Peugeot 308 steering rack. You need to dwell on the last problem in more detail.

In the small car Peugeot 308, it is presented in a classic form with a hydraulic system in the form of a piston and pipe channels. Main components:

• aluminium case;
• two anthers on articulated rods;
• worm shaft;
• rubber seals;
• adjusting bolt, spring;
• bypass pipes for hydraulics;
• shank nut;
• rack;
• clamps;
• upper and lower oil seals;
• bearings;
• fixing bolts.

Typical rail malfunctions

• knocking while driving, especially on bumps and bumps;
• biting the steering wheel when turning to the sides;
• hum of bearings;
• leakage of lubricant from the connecting parts;
• lack of responsiveness.

Before you start repairing the Peugeot 308 rack, you need to diagnose the steering assembly. Diagnostics is used both full and partial, local. It all depends on the type of services that the customer has ordered. If we are talking about the prevention of the running gear, then it is enough to limit ourselves only to local diagnostics, if you need to know the general condition of the machine, then the full range of scanning.

As a rule, there is no need for an initial inspection for partial repairs. The machine is immediately lifted by a hoist, the experts begin to disassemble. Since the design of the machine does not allow removing the rail through the top of the bonnet, it is necessary to remove the protection of the oil pan, the front stabilizer struts.Next, we move on to the articulated rods and tips, we also unscrew and unscrew them.

Now we go to the salon, the bottom of the driver's seat. As mentioned earlier, you need to remove the mats, soundproofing, and unscrew the two nuts that hold the rack housing mount. It remains only to remove the worm shaft from the column splines. To do this, take the key to "14" and unscrew the bolt on the steering column at the bottom. In the salon, work is no longer carried out.

After the steering wheel is removed, the master clamps it in a special vice and proceeds to a complete disassembly. The first to remove are two anthers, having previously loosened the clamps - clamps. Next, we proceed to removing the worm shaft housing, removing the bypass pipes. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the fastening bolts around the perimeter with the head on "12" or with a socket wrench.

When the shaft itself is removed, we proceed to remove the rail, for this it is necessary to slightly feed the stem to the right side. The oil seal will drop out and the stem will be free. The left oil seal will have to be tapped out with a special puller.

All parts are cleaned and dried. A visual inspection is carried out for defects. If there are cracks on the body part, then a complete replacement of the element is required. The aluminum cylinder is not subject to "resuscitation". Some masters practice sealing with a special type of welding, but the problem does not disappear forever, only for a while. Systematic vibrations, shocks, potholes contribute to the formation of new faults, cracks, the need for repair is repeated.

This operation is carried out only if there is a rust deposit with a thickness of no more than 0.3 mm. Excessive thickness cannot be removed by grinding without losing the volume of the part. In such cases, only replace with a new toothed rod. If the damage is within the permissible range, then using fine sandpaper, the part is cleaned from rust.

The process is carried out similarly to disassembly, only in reverse order with the installation of new parts and seals. Each seat, bearing, oil seal is pre-lubricated. Pressing in takes place very carefully, without sudden movements and impacts. During installation, the oil seals can easily be damaged, which will lead to the formation of leaks again. The assembly ends with the lubricant filling, control measurement of the level. For this, there is a special control nut, which checks the level. Installation on the body part, fastening parts, checking the machine before handing over to the customer.

This mechanism is an integral part of the steering unit of the vehicle and affects the safety of movement. The restoration of this node is a complex process that includes a whole range of technical operations aimed at detecting and correcting possible technical inconsistencies. Identification of problems involves visual inspection of the device, disassembly and assembly manipulations and inspection of the rail on specialized bench equipment.

This level of material and technical equipment is available to our car service. We carry out high-quality repair and diagnostics of the rack and pinion assembly within an acceptable time frame. This is achieved through the use of qualified employees of profile specialization and special technical means.

Our car service offers the following technical services:

• elimination of all sorts of leaks and depressurization of the power steering system;
• removal of possible contamination and traces of corrosion;
• performing locksmith operations;
• identification and localization of backlash in the connections of the rack and pinion;
• replacement of worn out parts;
• checking the power steering pump and its drive;
• measurements of the quality and quantity of oil in the hydraulic system;
• carrying out adjustments and settings for the correct operation of the part;
• clarification of the technical condition of oil filters and component mechanisms;
• computer diagnostics of the on-board control system of the machine for the presence of failures;
• maintenance of the steering unit elements.

Our service station, by introducing rationalization proposals of our professionals into the technological process of repair, regularly implements new techniques and methods of carrying out restoration work. In order to avoid situations with incorrect technical condition of equipment and devices, we regularly update or modernize the existing material and technical base. This allows our specialists to effectively detect and eliminate possible shortcomings in compliance with the established terms of repair manipulations.

During the operation of the vehicle, shock and vibration loads may occur, which adversely affect the technical condition of the steering rack of the Peugeot 308 car. Also, malfunctions are caused by the impact of solid parts of the track pavement, possible mechanical influences, and the development of possible corrosion processes. This can lead to premature failure of the rack and pinion mechanism and the subsequent occurrence of emergency situations. Our qualified professionals are able to quickly and efficiently eliminate all types of defects of any configuration using a set of specialized equipment, tools and fixtures.

When performing operations to replace aggregate units unsuitable for further operation, original parts and component parts of alternative origin can be used. The component is installed, selected by the client based on his financial capabilities. This is due to the increased cost of original production elements.

Ignoring the possible inconsistencies in the technical condition of the steering rack can lead to jamming of the interface while driving the Peugeot 308. As a result, accidents and serious difficulties with machine control can occur. In some cases, the nature of the wear of component parts does not provide for their repair, technical problems are localized by replacing faulty components or the entire unit. It depends on the degree of wear of the parts, the body and the rail itself.

Our service company carries out a full range of technological operations for the repair of the Peugeot 308 steering rack until all possible malfunctions are corrected. Also, clients can be offered complex services, including several types of restoration work at a fixed cost.

For the sake of our customers, we strive to rationalize our pricing policy for the provision of rack and pinion restoration services. These indicators are achieved by our policy to improve repair techniques and methods of labor organization to increase the efficiency of recovery operations.

In the event of untimely servicing, the loss of performance or incorrect operation of the rack and pinion unit will make driving the Peugeot 308 vehicle impossible. At the same time, the likelihood of emergencies remains.

We rarely recorded claims for warranty claims. In their presence, our specialists are responsible for correcting existing inconsistencies. At the same time, we fulfill our obligations for warranty service in full. The overwhelming majority of motorists were satisfied with the services they received for a democratic price.

Many car owners turn to our repair company on the recommendations of their colleagues and acquaintances. This is an indicator of the trust of our customers and the reliability of our car service!

Suspicious rattling of the steering rack is a rather unpleasant experience for any car owner. The owners of Peugeot 405, faced with such a problem, are even more indignant, because the repair of the Peugeot steering rack from the official dealers of the French company costs a lot of money.

If you are faced with such a situation, it is important to know that you can solve this problem with a minimum investment of money. So, in this article I will tell you how to repair the Peugeot steering rack on your own.

I talked with experienced reversals and found out that in my case, either the support sleeve on the left knocks on the rail, or the repair kit on the right side is wearing out. I didn't see a single backlash on the left, but there were plenty of backlashes on the right side. I could believe that it is possible to make a fluoroplastic bushing.

This is exactly what I decided to do.

First you need to dismantle the wheels and support the car. Be sure to keep in mind that in the future you will need to work with the rail on the left. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the installation.

Next, you need to take a syringe and use it to pump out the hydraulic fluid from the power steering tank.

Now it's time to unscrew the nut from the tie rod and from the tip.

This can be done using a specialized tool, but if you do not have one, you can solve the problem with an ordinary hammer.

From my own experience, I will say that those parts that you unscrew during the repair process need to be thoroughly watered with a wedge.

The next step will be to work from the side of the passenger compartment: before unscrewing the cross, you need to put marks with the help of which it was easy to navigate in the future and set the steering wheel and wheels straight.

Next, you need to dismantle the hydraulic pipes by carefully unscrewing them.

In order to make the work easier and more convenient, it is worth getting confused and making small keys.

Next stage. It is necessary to unscrew and remove the cross from the bottom. I think you, like me, will not have to make notes there, because traces of rust will tell you the right way.

I think you know that in the Peugeot 405, the shift rods are attached to the steering rack. I do not recommend removing them with a hammer and a guide - it would be much safer to do this with a 16 key.

It's time to unscrew the steering rack.

To remove the rail, you will need to unscrew the following bracket:

So, we can easily remove the steering rack.

It is necessary to disassemble the steering rack. There is a chance that you may need a gas wrench (you will need to use it when removing the steering tip).

Using a chisel, you need to carefully mark the pipe of the hydraulic pump.

Next, you need to remove the steering rod boot. With the so-called "cap" you will have to suffer and re-arm yourself with a chisel. We unscrew the steering rods.

Here's a top hat in person.

Then you need to unscrew and get the support sleeve. Care is required at this stage, as there is a spring in this structure - it is very easy to lose it.

We dismantle the rack housing. For this purpose, fitter's assembly is ideal.

Everything needs to be thoroughly cleaned and washed. Folds into a bag. Personally, I went to the turning shop and tried to make a fluoroplastic bushing. I do not recommend purchasing a repair kit - it is very short-lived.

We are looking for the necessary mandrel and knock out the spent sleeve.

The photo does not convey the whole problem, so I will explain: the worn sleeve was the culprit of the knock.

Here are some fluoroplastic bushings they made for me: the first is too wide, the second is too narrow. I hated it, but I took the file and tried to rectify the situation. I grinded the outer diameter in order to insert the bushing into the rack housing. Then I inserted and processed the inner diameter.

Now you need to secure the bushing with a bolt.

At the end, we process everything with grease and assemble in the reverse order. Ready!

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User #: 1 767

For those whose hands grow from the right place, a photo of the steering rack parsing from the "brothers" will come in handy

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User no .: 1 040

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Healed the knock of the right side, it was clearly audible knocking on the rail with his fist. Disassembled in the service, a French auto appeared in Tula, it is difficult to crawl from the pit, they did it with me. The steering tip is removed, the boot is removed, the steering link is unscrewed. In the steering wheel, a metal sleeve is visible, held by a retaining ring, with difficulty, but removed. The bushing itself was pushed out sharply by turning over the left wheel, from the third time it came out, the oil naturally fell on the ground.

It contains a plastic sleeve that has been erased and of course the oil seal, the white ring from the oil seal is persistent. Used to grind out of caprolon


Sleeve dimensions

not a correct drawing, but I think it will be clear.

The oil seal 24 * 37.2 * 8.5 type 7 NA-0828 ordered 636 rubles from “motorherz”.

Everything is collected in a metal sleeve, it must be put on the rail with effort, but still from the hand. I think that the metal inside is conical, I got used very tightly after driving 1000 km. You can go a little with emery. Rail without bushing.

Rail assembly.

Hydraulic oil was added 200 grams. The steering wheel was pumped without problems. I paid 2000 rubles for the work. Something like this, many messages of the photo did not interfere, the child figured it out, it worked out in the last one.

Attention! Not all models are presented on the site. You can find out the price, check availability, and also make an appointment for repairs by phone:+7 (351) 200-92-43. Come! Steering diagnostics - free!

• Narrow-profile specialization
• Guarantee for all works for at least six months
• Huge accumulated experience and technological base

Repair cost with spare parts (rub.)

In order to be able to properly repair the steering rack of the Peugeot 308, a special room is required. At first, specialists are required to fully test this unit in order to find out if there is a malfunction in each individual element. To fix the problem, you need to hire a real professional, since the repair of the Peugeot 308 steering rack according to the rules is carried out in accordance with technological standards.

The steering rack controls the wheels. The reason why the mechanism will need to be repaired may be a leak in the steering rack area, and a knock is also possible. The reasons, of course, we can list further, however, we will dwell in more detail on the most common.

If you suddenly find that an oil stain remains under your car - this is a steering rack leak, then you need to think about a trip to a car service. Not as easy as driving before? Therefore, the steering gear should be diagnosed. The car should work like a clock - deviations from the norm say that the repair of one or another unit will not interfere. Keep in mind that minor breakdowns invariably result in a major problem, so you shouldn't expect changes to happen on their own.

The steering rack can be faulty due to corrosion that has appeared on the stock, getting rid of which is a difficult technological process. And it is quite possible that the rail will need to be sorted out and replaced with certain components that are completely worn out.

Turning to the masters of our car service, you can avoid significant expenses. Having carried out diagnostics here, you can immediately find out in what condition your steering rack Peugeot 308. Be aware that delaying the repair does not bode well! Our specialists can handle both minor and major breakdowns - they can help in any case!

Repairs with a 10% discount!

When changing the oil, the suspension diagnostics are free of charge.

We provide a guarantee of 50 thousand km. or a year of operation.

If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Peugeot 308, you need:

one.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the foreman;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.

Most of the owners of the Peugeot 308 car complain that over time there are malfunctions in the steering rack of the Peugeot 308. The first thing they notice is the appearance of a knock when the car is not moving. If you do not eliminate the malfunction, then later the situation will only worsen. On an uneven road, it may start "hitting the steering wheel", and at high speed, a backlash is likely to appear. At the same time, it seems as if the car is floating. We can say that the knock on the column is a fairly common defect in the Peugeot 308.

Quite often, Peugeot 308 owners complain that the steering rack is leaking. In this case, sometimes it is enough to change the seals, while it will be disassembled completely. But in any case, it is necessary to repair the steering rack of the Peugeot 308 or replace it. Our professional craftsmen will be able to tighten it or, if required, replace it. Repair or replacement of the Peugeot 308 gur is also not an isolated case, and the need for it may arise quite unexpectedly, for example, the steering wheel starts to "wedge" when the car overheats. Sometimes it doesn’t even allow to turn in any direction.

Some "mechanics" and friends advise changing the fluid to a more expensive one. However, it shouldn't be surprising that problems will arise again. Yes, repairs require some costs, but all this work will cost the car owner much more profitable compared to the fact that he himself will try to fix something at random. After such experiments, you still have to turn to professionals for help. In this case, most likely, they will have to eliminate not only the initially arisen malfunctions, but also mistakes that the motorist himself, unknowingly, made in his so-called repair.

When repairing a car, you need to remember that the steering rack is one of the important vehicle control units. Keeping it in good technical condition depends on safe traffic and smooth turns on the road. The first sign when servicing the rack is a slight oil leakage at the joints of the hydraulic fluid pipes and rubber seals. This suggests that you need to change the oil seal in the rail.

If you have a little skill in auto repair, then the process is not complicated. Replacement on your own will cost much less than that of specialists.

• bearing grease (any company);
• liquid wrench (helps to unscrew old dried-on nuts);
• clamps made of plastic for fixing the anthers of the steering rods;
• repair kit for oil seals for the rail;
• tube (for passing hydraulic fluid);
• universal agent for processing metal from rust;
• small capacity (a plastic bottle with a volume of two liters for draining old liquid);
• new oil seal.

• ratchet wrench set;
• a device for removing tips;
• special key with eight edges for adjusting the rail;
• construction screwdriver.

Two hours before starting work, lubricate all rail connections and fasteners with a liquid wrench anti-rust agent. When doing this, use rubber gloves and wear safety glasses.

The car must be installed on the handbrake and the steering wheel must be locked. Place stops under the rear wheels. For safety reasons against a short circuit in the wiring, during repairs under the hood, we disconnect the minus terminal from the battery.

Then you need to install jacks on both sides of the car and place supports next to them. This is necessary to hedge against the displacement of the car from the jacks. We remove the two front wheels, unscrew the nuts on the tips, then put a special puller under his body.With the help of the head, we begin to twist slowly, the finger gradually begins to leave the seat in the lever, but if it comes out with difficulty, then slowly knock on the lever with a hammer.

Then it is necessary to drain all the liquid from the rail into a plastic container through the distribution hose, while it is necessary to start the engine and turn the steering wheel to the right and left until the end until all the liquid comes out of the system. Next, unscrew the clamps and nuts in the rail, unscrew the bolt on the steering shaft, located near the floor itself, from the inside of the passenger compartment from the driver's side. We slowly pull the rack towards ourselves with small auxiliary movements in different directions, because the gear, which is located on the steering column shaft, is difficult to remove. When everything succeeded and the rail is removed, carefully pull the entire mechanism to the right side, there is free space.