Do-it-yourself Peugeot 308 steering rack repair

Pyzhevod active 😉 / Peugeot - 307

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

as stated in the instruction manual:

periodically hush up all the parts associated with the pusher
a) Lubricate all parts of the gear rack stop with G13 grease (is it possible with lithol or some domestic equivalent?)
b) Install pusher
c) Tighten the stop nut with a torque of 10Nm (1kg)
d) Adjust clearances, i.e. mark A, B, C with a center punch and relax until B and C are aligned

questions:
1. Why change pusher parts periodically?
2. What can happen to the old pusher, if when it is tightened, the backlash disappears, the steering wheel returns, then there is a knock. - is it worth changing the pusher to a new one?
3. a - do all parts of the pusher need to be lubricated and with what kind of lubricant?

Beginner Flamer / Peogeot – 307

I quote:
Steering Rack - eliminating knocking

A couple of years ago I pestered the rake with a knock, what I did:

The following solution was chosen.
A little theory:
The rail is pressed against the worm through the stop, it consists of
1. Emphasis
2. Damper
3. Nut
In the released state, the damper L = 19mm, pressed the nut, 19mm = = 15mm, if you pull further, the nut rests against the stop and the rail
is clamped, there is no elasticity of the damper in this range, you can remove it and try it.
There are two thrust bushings in the body, a rail goes on the right, it doesn’t even seem to go to the left, because the rail is pressed against the worm, and there is always a gap between the rail and the left bushing.
When driving over bumps, the rail is squeezed out of the worm, and knocks on the left bushing, on the worm.
Also, the rack is pressed from the worm when the steering wheel is rotated, because the gearing.
The damper is a toy rubber band.

What did you do:
We take the clutch disc from the classics (worn), there are 6 springs, two of them are a little softer, we take a soft
At the spring we cut the coils to L = 17, at the trimmed coil we level the plane on the emery.
We collect:
-Insert the stop (it can be anointed with grease)
-Spring, good end to stop.
- washer to the cut end
- A nut (a protrusion is on it, a washer is put on, a cambric is on the cambric, a spring is cut on the cambric, it turns out a “single” nut with a spring,
otherwise everything falls apart)
we begin to wrap the nut, and pull the tie rod as soon as the play is gone,
Let's turn it another 2 degrees and that's it. do not drag.
——————————————————————–
The spring is very stiff, but has a stroke of 1-3 mm of soft compression, which is what we need to preload the rail,
these 2-3 mm select the gap without clamping the rail and do not allow the rail to be bitten in extreme positions (if there is wear in the rail),
at the same time, the RIGIDITY of the spring does not allow the rail to be pressed from the worm while driving
over bumps, leaving the steering wheel light, which is what we need.

What do you think about this?

Pyzhevod active 😉 / Peugeot - 307

I quote:
Steering Rack - eliminating knocking

A couple of years ago I pestered the rake with a knock, what I did:

The following solution was chosen.
A little theory:
The rail is pressed against the worm through the stop, it consists of
1. Emphasis
2. Damper
3. Nut
In the released state, the damper L = 19mm, pressed the nut, 19mm = = 15mm, if you pull further, the nut rests against the stop and the rail
is clamped, there is no elasticity of the damper in this range, you can remove it and try it.
There are two thrust bushings in the body, a rail goes on the right, it doesn’t even seem to go to the left, because the rail is pressed against the worm, and there is always a gap between the rail and the left bushing.
When driving over bumps, the rail is squeezed out of the worm, and knocks on the left bushing, on the worm.
Also, the rack is pressed from the worm when the steering wheel is rotated, because the gearing.
The damper is a toy rubber band.

What did you do:
We take the clutch disc from the classics (worn), there are 6 springs, two of them are a little softer, we take a soft
At the spring we cut the coils to L = 17, at the trimmed coil we level the plane on the emery.
We collect:
-Insert the stop (it can be anointed with grease)
-Spring, good end to stop.
- washer to the cut end
- A nut (a protrusion is on it, a washer is put on, a cambric is on the cambric, a spring is cut on the cambric, it turns out a “single” nut with a spring,
otherwise everything falls apart)
we begin to wrap the nut, and pull the tie rod as soon as the play is gone,
Let's turn it another 2 degrees and that's it. do not drag.
——————————————————————–
The spring is very stiff, but has a stroke of 1-3 mm of soft compression, which is what we need to preload the rail,
these 2-3 mm select the gap without clamping the rail and do not allow the rail to be bitten in extreme positions (if there is wear in the rail),
at the same time, the RIGIDITY of the spring does not allow the rail to be pressed from the worm while driving
over bumps, leaving the steering wheel light, which is what we need.

What do you think about this?

Hello everyone, who realties from our members of the forum did IT with a rail.

P eugeot 308. STEERING

Rice. 8.2. Steering gear: 1 – left outer tie rod end; 2 – the left steering draft; 3.6 - protective covers; 4 - pinion shaft; 5 - crankcase of the steering mechanism; 7 - right steering rod; 8 – the right external tip of steering draft

On Peugeot 308 cars in all trim levels, steering is installed with an electro-hydraulic booster, a safety steering column, adjustable in reach and angle, and a gear-rack type steering mechanism.

The steering of the car consists of a steering wheel, a steering column, a steering mechanism, an electric pump for a working fluid, two steering rods and their two tips connected by ball joints to the steering knuckles of the front suspension.

The steering wheel is equipped with an airbag and a horn switch.

The steering column is safety, adjustable in tilt and reach, equipped with energy-absorbing elements that increase passive safety, and an anti-theft device that blocks the steering shaft 7 (Fig. 8.1). The intermediate shaft 2 of the steering is connected to the steering shaft and the stubble shaft of the steering mechanism by cardan joints 1 and 3.

The intermediate shaft consists of the upper and lower parts connected by pins. In the event of a frontal collision of the car with any obstacle, as a result of shearing the pins, the lower part of the intermediate shaft enters the upper one, which makes it possible to reduce the length of the intermediate shaft and thereby cause less harm to the driver.

Rice. 8.1. Steering column: 1 - lower cardan joint of the intermediate shaft; 2 - intermediate shaft; 3 - the upper cardan joint of the intermediate shaft; 4 – an arm of fastening of a steering column; 5 - lever for adjusting the position of the steering column; 6 - ignition switch (lock); 7 - steering shaft

The steering mechanism is installed in the engine compartment. The steering gear housing is fixed to the front suspension cross member.

Tie rods 2 (Fig. 8.2) and 7 are attached to the steering rack with ball joints. Tie rod ends 1 and 8 are connected to the steering knuckles of the front suspension by means of ball joints.

The pressure of the working fluid in the hydraulic booster is created by an electric pump, which is installed in the engine compartment. If the power steering fails, the ability to drive the car remains, but the effort on the steering wheel increases.

POSSIBLE STEERING FAULTS, THEIR CAUSES AND REMEDIES

Registered: 23.09.2014
Posts: 247
From: Togliatti,
Car: Peugeot 308 2009, 1.6l. EP6 French

Started to knock a little rake on the passenger side. 100t.km. The mechanics at the station confirmed that there was very little knocking. Tips seem to be ok.

I’m thinking - can the rail be repaired at a low cost with some kind of repair kit (tell me the number)? Or will this not help and immediately need to be changed with large nodes?
Thanks!

Registered: 23.09.2014
Posts: 247
From: Togliatti,
Car: Peugeot 308 2009, 1.6l. EP6 French

So I didn't fix it.

Tell me about the steering rack - does anyone have experience? - knocks on the right - and I hear on the bumps and the mechanics said. The rest of the suspension has just recently been refurbished.

SDN
old-timer

Age: 39
Registered: 16.02.2016
Posts: 126
From: Evpatoria
Car: Peugeot 308 AT 1.6/120 2011 restyling

Club of owners and fans of Peugeot 308, 308 SW, 308 CC, 408 and even RCZ

dimka86rus
Listen, situevina one to one! I also sin on the rail, although three services said that it was in order. What city are you from?

Added after 1 minute 15 seconds:
Ah, I see Tyumen.

Added after 37 seconds:
i.e. the bones

It's great, then you need to write in the price lists that the PEUGEOT is a summer car and for the winter we ask you to buy a HUNDAI, since I had had a Tucson since Novya and for seven years and 160 thousand there were no similar problems.
And so I called the hotline and the girl kicked me off affectionately to the dealer, but I wrote them (in Peugeot) a letter.
Thanks for the answer, but I would need to fix the frosts for now, otherwise you feel like winter that you didn’t buy a Skoda Octavia in vain. after all, a couple of neighbors are happy and do not blow in the mustache

Added after 1 minute 51 seconds:
Yes, and you will understand what helped next winter. I will wait.

Added after 7 minutes 31 seconds:
Yes, there is an idea, if it is massive, then you need to get together 100 cars and come next winter to them. because PSA is fighting for our winter market. let them answer

French cars occupy a leading position in the world ranking in terms of sales. They embody decent quality, affordable cost, long service life.

If we talk about used models, then in terms of reliability they will not be inferior to German brands, which occupy first places in their rating.

French engineers pay special attention to the "subcompact" class. This is due to the fact that the traffic in the country is quite dense and the state is forced to deal with congestion by actively supporting the policy of producing small cars. It should be noted that they are successful in this.

According to the statistics of our workshop, Peugeot owners do not experience a negative trend towards breakdowns. The car is characterized by a standard "set" of problems that are eliminated during the passage of scheduled maintenance. Often, it is necessary to replace consumables, filter elements, tighten the timing belt, check the lubrication level in the systems, repair the Peugeot 308 steering rack. The last problem needs to be discussed in more detail.

In the subcompact Peugeot 308, it is presented in a classic form with a hydraulic system in the form of a piston and pipes. Main components:

• aluminium case;
• two anthers on articulated rods;
• worm shaft;
• rubber seals;
• adjusting bolt, spring;
• hydraulic bypass pipes;
• shank nut;
• rack;
• clamps;
• upper and lower seals;
• bearings;
• fixing bolts.

Typical rack malfunctions

• knocking while driving, especially over bumps and bumps;
• biting steering wheel when turning to the side;
• hum of bearings;
• leakage of lubricant from the connecting parts;
• insufficient responsiveness.

Before you start repairing the Peugeot 308 rail, it is necessary to diagnose the steering assembly. Diagnostics is applied both full and partial, local. It all depends on the type of services that the customer has issued. If we are talking about the prevention of the running gear, then it is enough to confine ourselves to local diagnostics only, if you need to know the general condition of the machine, then the full range of scanning.

As a rule, for partial repairs there is no need for an initial inspection. The car is immediately lifted by a lift, the experts begin to disassemble. Since the design of the machine does not allow you to remove the rail through the top of the bonnet, you need to remove the protection of the oil pan, front stabilizer strut.Next, we move on to the articulated rods and tips, we also unpin them and unscrew them.

Now we move on to the cabin part, the bottom of the driver's seat. As mentioned earlier, you need to remove the floor mats, soundproofing, and unscrew the two nuts that hold the rack body mount. It remains only to remove the worm shaft from the splines of the column. To do this, take the key to "14" and unscrew the bolt on the steering column at the bottom. There is no more work going on in the salon.

After the steering is removed, the master clamps it in a special vise and proceeds to complete disassembly. Two anthers are removed first, after loosening the clamps - the clamps. Next, we proceed to the removal of the worm shaft housing, the removal of bypass pipes. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the fixing bolts around the perimeter with a head on “12” or with a socket wrench.

When the shaft itself is removed, we proceed to remove the rail, for this it is necessary to slightly move the stem to the right side. The gland will fall out and the stem will be released. The left oil seal will have to be tapped out with a special puller.

All parts are cleaned and dried. A visual inspection is carried out for defects. If there are cracks on the body part, then a complete replacement of the element is needed. The aluminum cylinder is not subject to "resuscitation". Some craftsmen practice soldering with a special type of welding, but the problem does not disappear forever, only for a while. Systematic vibrations, shocks, potholes contribute to the formation of new faults, cracks, the need for repairs is repeated.

This operation is carried out only if there is a rust coating with a thickness of not more than 0.3 mm. Excess thickness cannot be removed by grinding without losing the volume of the part. In such cases, only replacement with a new toothed rod. If the damage is within the acceptable range, then using fine sandpaper, the part is cleaned of rust.

The process is carried out similarly to disassembly, only in reverse order with the installation of new parts and seals. Each seat, bearing, oil seal is pre-lubricated. Pressing occurs very carefully, without sudden movements, and shocks. During installation, it is easy to damage the seals, which will lead to the formation of a leak again. The assembly ends with filling the lubricant, control measurement of the level. To do this, there is a special control nut, which checks the level. Mounting on the body part, fixing parts, checking the machine before delivery to the customer.

This mechanism is an integral part of the steering unit of the vehicle and affects the safety of movement. The restoration of this node is a complex process, which includes a whole range of technical operations aimed at detecting and correcting possible technical inconsistencies. Identification of problems involves visual inspection of the device, disassembly and assembly manipulations and examination of the rail on specialized bench equipment.

This level of material and technical equipment is available to our car service. We carry out high-quality repairs and diagnostics of the rack assembly in an acceptable time frame. This is achieved through the involvement of qualified employees of specialized specialization and special technical means.

Our auto repair shop offers the following technical services:

• elimination of various kinds of leaks and depressurization of the power steering system;
• removal of possible contaminants and traces of corrosion;
• performing plumbing operations;
• detection and localization of backlashes in rack and pinion joints;
• replacement of worn parts;
• checking the power steering pump and its drive;
• measuring the quality and quantity of oil in the hydraulic system;
• making adjustments and adjustments for the correct operation of the part;
• clarification of the technical condition of oil filters and component mechanisms;
• computer diagnostics of the onboard control system of the machine for the presence of failures;
• carrying out maintenance of the elements of the steering unit.

Our service station, through the introduction of rationalization proposals of our professionals into the technological process of repair, regularly embodies new techniques and methods for carrying out restoration work. In order to exclude situations with an incorrect technical condition of equipment and devices, we regularly update or modernize the existing material and technical base. This allows our specialists to effectively detect and eliminate possible shortcomings in compliance with the established deadlines for repair manipulations.

During the operation of the vehicle, shock and vibration loads may occur that adversely affect the technical condition of the steering rack of the Peugeot 308 car. Also, the impact of solid parts of the track surface, probable mechanical influences, and the development of possible corrosion processes lead to malfunctions. This can lead to premature failure of the rack and pinion mechanism and the subsequent occurrence of emergencies. Our qualified professionals are able to quickly and efficiently eliminate all types of defects of any configuration using a set of specialized equipment, tools and fixtures.

When performing operations to replace aggregate units unsuitable for further operation, original parts and components of alternative origin can be used. The component selected by the client based on his financial capabilities is installed. This is due to the increased cost of original production elements.

Ignoring possible inconsistencies in the technical condition of the steering rack can lead to jamming of the interface while driving a Peugeot 308 car. As a result, emergency situations and serious difficulties in driving the car can occur. In some cases, the nature of the wear of component parts does not provide for their repair, technical problems are localized by replacing faulty components or the entire assembly. It depends on the degree of wear of the parts, the housing and the rail itself.

Our service company carries out a full range of technological operations for the repair of the Peugeot 308 steering rack until all possible malfunctions are corrected. Also, clients can be offered complex services, including several types of restoration work at a fixed cost.

For the sake of customers, we strive to rationalize our pricing policy for the provision of rack and pinion restoration services. These indicators are achieved by our policy of improving repair techniques and labor organization methods to increase the efficiency of recovery operations.

In the event of untimely service maintenance, the loss of performance or incorrect operation of the rack assembly will make driving the Peugeot 308 vehicle impossible. At the same time, the likelihood of accidents remains.

We rarely registered warranty claims. In their presence, our specialists take a responsible approach to correcting existing inconsistencies. At the same time, we fulfill our warranty service obligations in full. The vast majority of motorists remained satisfied with the services received at a democratic price.

Many car owners turn to our repair company on the recommendations of their colleagues and acquaintances. This is an indicator of customer confidence in us and the reliability of our car service!

Suspicious knocking of the steering rack is a rather unpleasant event for any car owner. The owners of the Peugeot 405, faced with such a problem, become even more indignant, because the repair of the Peugeot steering rack at the official dealers of the French company costs a lot of money.

If you are faced with such a situation, it is important to know that you can solve this problem with a minimum investment of money. So, in this article I will tell you how to repair the Peugeot steering rack on your own.

I talked with experienced Pezhevods and found out that in my case either the support bushing on the left is knocking in the rail, or the repair kit on the right side is wearing out. I did not see a single backlash on the left, but there were plenty of backlashes on the right side. I could believe that it is possible to make a PTFE bushing.

That is exactly what I decided to do.

First you need to dismantle the wheels and put the car on supports. Be sure to keep in mind that in the future you will need to work with the rail on the left. Make sure that the installation is not obstructed.

Next, you need to take a syringe and use it to pump out the hydraulic fluid from the power steering tank.

Now it's time to unscrew the nut from the tie rod and from the tip.

This can be done with a specialized tool, but if you do not have one, you can solve the problem with an ordinary hammer.

From my own experience, I’ll say that those parts that you unscrew during the repair process need to be thoroughly watered with a Vedashka.

The next step will be work from the side of the cabin: before unscrewing the cross, you need to put marks, with the help of which it was easy to orient yourself and set the steering wheel and wheels straight in the future.

Next, you need to dismantle the hydraulic tubes by carefully unscrewing.

In order to make the work easier and more convenient, it is worth getting confused and making small keys.

Next stage. It is necessary to unscrew and remove the cross from below. I think you, like me, do not have to make notes there, because traces of rust will tell you the right way.

I think you know that in the Peugeot 405, gearshift rods are attached to the steering rack. I do not recommend removing them with a hammer and bit - it will be much safer to do this with a 16 wrench.

It's time to unscrew the steering rack.

To remove the rail, you will need to unscrew the following bracket:

So, we can easily remove the steering rack.

The steering rack needs to be disassembled. There is a possibility that you may need a gas wrench (it will need to be used when removing the steering tip).

Using a chisel, carefully mark the hydraulic pump tube.

Next, you need to remove the tie rod boot. With the so-called "cap" will have to suffer and again armed with a chisel. We unscrew the steering rods.

Here is the cylinder in person.

Next you need to unscrew and get the support sleeve. At this stage, caution is required, since this design contains a spring - it is very easy to lose it.

We dismantle the rack housing. For this purpose, a locksmith is ideal.

Everything needs to be thoroughly cleaned and washed. Folds into a package. Personally, I turned to the turning shop and tried to make a sleeve from fluoroplast. I do not recommend purchasing a repair kit - it is very short-lived.

We are looking for the necessary mandrel and knock out the used bushing.

The photo does not convey the whole problem, so I will explain: the worn bushing became the culprit of the knock.

These are the PTFE bushings they made for me: the first one is too wide, the second one is too narrow. How I did not want to, but I took a file and tried to fix the situation. I turned the outer diameter in order to insert the sleeve into the rack housing. Next, I inserted and processed the inner diameter.

Now you need to fix the bushing with a bolt.

At the end, we process everything with grease and assemble in the reverse order. Ready!

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From: KhMAO
User #: 1 767

For those whose hands grow from the right place, a photo of the analysis of the steering rack from the “brothers” will come in handy

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From: Lipetsk
User No: 1 040

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He treated the knock on the right side, it was well audible by knocking on the rail with his fist. I took it apart in the service, a French car appeared in Tula, it’s hard to crawl from the pit, they did it in front of me. The steering tip, anther is removed, the steering rod is unscrewed. In the steering, a metal sleeve is visible, it is held by a retaining ring, with difficulty, but it is removed. The sleeve itself was pushed out sharply turning the left wheel, it came out from the third time, the oil naturally fell to the ground.

It has a plastic sleeve that has been erased and of course the stuffing box, the white ring from the stuffing box is stubborn. Worn-out machined from caprolon


Sleeve dimensions

not the right drawing, but I think it will be clear.

Oil seal 24 * 37.2 * 8.5 type 7 HA-0828 ordered at "motorherz" 636 rubles.

Everything is assembled in a metal sleeve, it should fit on the rail with effort, but still from the hand. I think that the metal one is conical inside, it fit very tightly and got used after driving 1000 km. You can go through the sanding a little. Rack without bushing.

Rake assembled.

Hydraulic oil added 200 grams. The steering wheel bled without problems. I paid 2000 rubles for the work. Something like this, many messages did not fit the photo, the child figured it out, the last one turned out.

Attention! Not all models are shown on the site. To find out the price, check availability, and also sign up for repairs, please call:+7 (351) 200-92-43. Come! Steering diagnostics - free of charge!

• Narrow specialization
• All work guaranteed for at least six months
• Huge accumulated experience and technological base

Repair cost with spare parts (rub.)

In order to be able to properly repair the Peugeot 308 steering rack, a special room is required. First, specialists are required to fully test this unit in order to find out whether there is a malfunction in each individual element. To fix the problem, you need to hire a real professional, since the repair of the Peugeot 308 steering rack is carried out according to the rules in accordance with technological standards.

Thanks to the steering rack, the wheels are controlled. The reason for which the repair of the mechanism will be required may be a leak in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steering rack, a knock is also possible. The reasons, of course, we can list further, however, we will dwell on the most common ones.

If suddenly you find that an oil stain remains under your car - this is a steering rack leak, then you need to think about a trip to a car service. Is it not as easy as it used to be to drive a car? Therefore, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics of the steering mechanism. The car should work like a clock - deviations from the norm say that the repair of one or another node will not interfere. Remember that a significant problem will inevitably follow from small breakdowns, so it is not necessary to expect changes to happen on their own.

The steering rack may be faulty due to corrosion that has appeared on the stem, getting rid of which is a difficult process. And it is quite possible that the rail will need to be sorted out and replaced with certain components that are completely worn out.

Turning to the masters of our car service, you can avoid significant expenses. Having carried out diagnostics here, you can immediately find out what condition your Peugeot 308 steering rack is in. Know that delaying repairs does not bode well! Our specialists can handle both minor breakdowns and large ones - they can help in any case!

Refurbishment with 10% discount!

When changing the oil, suspension diagnostics are free.

We provide a guarantee of 50 thousand km. or year of use.

If you want to make an appointment for a Peugeot 308 steering rack repair, you need to:

1. call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master receiver;
2.The master will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both up and down, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the master makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our masters remove, repair and install the rack on your car;
5. You check, pay, get a guarantee for the work.

Most Peugeot 308 car owners complain that over time, malfunctions occur in the Peugeot 308 steering rack. The first thing they notice is the appearance of a knock in a position when the car is not moving. If you do not eliminate the malfunction, then later the situation will only worsen. On a rough road, it may begin to “hit the steering wheel”, and at high speed, backlash is likely to appear. At the same time, it seems as if the car is floating. We can say that knocking in the column is a fairly common defect in the Peugeot 308.

Quite often, Peugeot 308 owners complain that the steering rack is leaking. In this case, sometimes it is enough to change the seals, while it will be completely disassembled. But in any case, it is necessary to repair the Peugeot 308 steering rack or replace it. Our professional craftsmen will be able to tighten it or, if necessary, replace it. Repair or replacement of the Peugeot 308 gur is also not an isolated case, and the need for it may arise quite unexpectedly, for example, the steering wheel begins to “wedge” when the car overheats. Sometimes it doesn't even let you turn in any direction.

Some "mechanics" and friends advise changing the fluid to a more expensive one. However, do not be surprised that problems will arise again. Yes, repairs require some costs, but all these works will cost the car owner much more profitable compared to the fact that he himself will try to fix something at random. After such experiments, you still have to seek help from professionals. At the same time, most likely, they will have to eliminate not only the initially occurring malfunctions, but also the mistakes that the motorist himself unknowingly made in his so-called repair.

When repairing a car, you need to remember that the steering rack is one of the important vehicle control units. Keeping it in good technical condition depends on safe traffic and smooth turns on the road. The first sign during rack maintenance is a slight oil leak at the junctions of the hydraulic fluid pipes and rubber seals. This suggests that the oil seal in the rail needs to be changed.

If you have a little skill in auto repair, then the process is not difficult. Do-it-yourself replacement will cost much less than that of specialists.

• grease for bearings (any company);
• liquid wrench (helps unscrew old dried nuts);
• plastic clamps for fixing the anthers of the steering rods;
• repair kit for rail seals;
• tube (to pass hydraulic fluid);
• universal tool for treating metal from rust;
• small capacity (a two-liter plastic bottle for draining old liquid);
• new seal.

• set of ratchet wrenches;
• tip removal tool;
• a special key with eight faces for adjusting the rail;
• construction screwdriver.

Two hours before starting work, lubricate all connections and fasteners of the rail with a rust remover such as a liquid key. Wear rubber gloves and goggles while doing this.

The car must be installed on the handbrake and the steering wheel blocked. Place chocks under the rear wheels. For safety reasons, from a short circuit in the wiring, during repairs under the hood, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Then you need to install jacks on both sides of the car and place supports next to them. This is necessary to ensure that the car does not move off the jacks. We remove the two front wheels, unscrew the nuts on the tips, then put a special puller under his body.With the help of the head, we begin to slowly turn, the finger gradually begins to leave the seat in the lever, but if it comes out with difficulty, then slowly tap on the lever with a hammer.

Then it is necessary to drain all the liquid from the rail into a plastic container through the distribution hose, while it is necessary to start the engine and turn the steering wheel to the right and to the left until all the liquid has left the system. Next, we unscrew the clamps and nuts in the rail, on the steering shaft we unscrew the bolt located near the floor itself, from the inside of the passenger compartment on the driver's side. We slowly pull the rail towards ourselves with small auxiliary movements in different directions, because the gear, which is located on the steering column shaft, is difficult to remove. When everything was successful and the rail was removed, carefully pull the entire mechanism to the right side, there is free space there.