In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the samand steering rack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
1. Raise the vehicle and secure it with safety supports.
2. Remove the steering gear assembly.
H. Install and fix the steering gear in a vise, then remove the two bolts and plate as shown in the figure.
4. Remove the O-ring.
5. Remove the adjusting nuts.
6. Remove the plastic washers.
10. Remove the pressure plunger. Clean and flush all parts and plug bore in body.
11. Apply lubricant to the thrust plunger, then install.
12. Install the gasket and spring.
1H. Install the initial set of shims 1.5 mm thick (assemble two washers 0.7 mm and 0.8 mm).
14. Using the special tool or drill (8 mm), center the plunger assembly.
15. Install the dial gauge holder and remove the drill.
16. Install the dial indicator (24402004), set it to zero.
17. Wiggle the steering gear by the ball as shown in the figure.
18. Mark the gap on the dial gauge.
19. Move aside the corrugated cover of the steering link, move the rack and fix it at a distance of 80 mm from the steering box body (middle point of the steering box), as shown in the figure.
20. Align the tie rod pivot pin 102 mm from the steering box (middle of the steering box) as shown in the illustration.
21. Find the position in which the indicator arrow deviates by the maximum angle when the staff moves within 30 mm from the center in both directions. Lock the steering gear in this position. Set dial indicator to zero.
Video (click to play).
22. The thrust plug must be overloaded from 0.02 to 0.08. The thickness of the shim must be d + 0.05. Select shims.
2H. Using a vernier caliper, measure the thickness of the plastic washer Standard thickness: 1.5 mm If the thickness of the washer is less than standard, replace it with a new one.
24. Place washers on the plate, starting with the thinnest one.
25. Install the plastic washer.
26. Make sure the gasket is fitted around the spring.
28. Install the plate and washers.
29. Tighten the mounting bolts with a tightening torque of 10 - 15 Nm.
Z0.Install the steering gear on the vehicle.
Z1. Fill and bleed hydraulic system with fluid.
Z2. Check the installation of the steering gear, adjust if necessary.
Service - GENERAL INFORMATION To maintain good technical condition and to avoid depreciation of the vehicle, regular maintenance is required. A wide network of authorized dealerships is at your service.
Airbags WARNINGS Do not modify the front of your vehicle in any way. This can adversely affect the deployment of the airbags. Excerpt from ECE R94.01: Extremely dangerous! Not .
Rear brake cylinder Removal PERFORMANCE ORDER 1. Remove the brake drum. 2. Using a G-clip, clamp the brake hose closest to the brake cylinder. 3. Using the pliers.
Horse breeder Honored and Honorary Veterinarian of the Club
Is registered: 14.06.2007 Posts: 2059 Location: Nefteyugansk
Disassemble yourself, find out what is broken. There are no more than a dozen parts.Order by Exist details, replace and that's it Cheap and cheerful.
Related Topic: Steering Problem Related Topic: Tie Rod Knock Related Topic: Power Steering - Power Steering Related Topic: Replacing the steering crosspiece Related Topic: Replacing the steering rack support bush _________________
Last edited by Konevod (Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:05 am); edited 2 times in total
Is registered: 04.07.2007 Posts: 146 Location: Kharkiv, Ukraine
Is registered: 02.10.2006 Posts: 398 Location: Lipetsk
Is registered: 07.05.2007 Posts: 599 Location: Samara
Is registered: 02.10.2006 Posts: 398 Location: Lipetsk
Is registered: 07.05.2007 Posts: 599 Location: Samara
Is registered: 13.11. Posts: 47 Location: Moscow region Odintsovsk district
Is registered: 22.02. Posts: 1673 Location: Moscow
Thanks to the forum users Geka and TRex for their practical advice, Denis, Oleg, Mikhalych and other inhabitants of the Garage for their attention, understanding and technical support! _________________ My trotter is not a gelding, but a worthy horse. The Horse is not so terrible as it is painted!
Each car has a device such as a steering rack. Its main function is to turn the wheels in different directions when the car is moving. It is necessary to periodically inspect the steering mechanism in order to save yourself from serious breakdowns and emergencies in the future.
The steering rack is connected to the wheels of the car by means of ball ends. The features of the steering rack are directly influenced by the type of control - hydraulic and mechanical. The mechanical type is often found on domestic cars, as well as on some old foreign cars. Hydraulic, basically, is only in the design of imported cars.
All car parts are subject to wear and tear. But most of all this applies to the steering rack mechanism. It is her mechanism that takes all the shocks, collisions into deep pits that arise from irregularities on the roads. No matter how careful you are a driver, a breakdown will happen sooner or later.
To determine if the steering rack is broken and if it needs to be repaired, you need to make sure that the rest of the chassis is in good working order. This can be done at any specialized car service. When identifying certain causes of breakdowns in the chassis of the car, it is best to eliminate them on the spot, not postponing until tomorrow.
The main signs of a breakdown or malfunction in the steering rack should be learned like two or two - this knowledge will save you a lot of trouble. So, often problems in the rack are given by a significant increase in efforts when turning the steering wheel. For hydraulic vehicles, the fluid level must be constantly monitored and, if necessary, topped up.
If the vehicle is hydraulically controlled, there may be a loud noise or abnormal noise in the power steering pump when cornering. While driving, an unpleasant knock may appear, which gives a lot to the steering wheel. Slight play may appear when the steering wheel is turned. It appears regardless of which way you turn the steering wheel.
The most common sign of a breakdown is a slight leakage of oil, this phenomenon is typical for both types of vehicle control. The reason for this breakdown is the wear of the steering rack oil seal. If such reasons appear, repairs must be made immediately so that your vehicle control mechanism does not completely fail while driving.
It is much easier to repair a steering rack for a car with a mechanical type of control than in the case of a hydraulic one. We will consider an example of replacing and repairing a hydraulic type of control, since in this case you will learn about all the possible difficulties. First you need to figure out what elements the steering rack consists of.
The main components are the toothed shaft, bearing bush and slide valve mechanism. In a hydraulic type mechanism, a pump is attached to the steering rack, which directly drives it. By the way, it gets in the way when removing the rail. Repairing the steering rack is very difficult. If you have never performed this procedure, then it is better to contact a car service or a knowledgeable friend who will help you do the basic operations.
In addition to knowledge, you will need a number of tools and spare parts - ready-made repair kits are sold specifically for work. It has its own for each car model. But some elements are suitable for a car of the same brand - this often happens in the case of domestic cars. When the repair kit is purchased, you can start disassembling the rail. This is best done on a lift or on a viewing pit.
First you need to lock the steering wheel straight and put the car on the handbrake. You can fix the steering wheel using the locking mechanism, or by wrapping it with sealing tape along with the steering column. The next step is to remove the engine protection, if you have one. After that, unscrew the fasteners - fold them separately so that during the assembly stage you do not lose them and do not get confused.
Under the hood, if necessary, remove the air filter by moving the pipes to the side. Disable electronic chips that can interfere with the removal of the steering rack. If you have a hydraulic control system, then you must first pump out all the liquid from the tank. Nowadays, it is very expensive, so the savings will not hurt you - carefully pump it into a clean canister.
Inside the car, you need to unscrew and then knock out the cam mechanism. The high and low pressure pipes in the hydraulic booster must be unscrewed with a special wrench so as not to "lick" the edges. Under no circumstances try to rip them off with other tools at hand. This can lead to the need to completely replace them, and for this the tubes will need to be expanded. You cannot do this at home, therefore you will have to contact a specialized service, so that all your savings will come to naught.
The cam mechanism is located near the gas and brake pedals. As soon as you remove it, the rail with all its mechanisms and bearings can be pulled out of the car. During the dismantling process, complications may arise with the steering rods and ball ends, it may be necessary to unscrew them. But best of all, if you take them out with the rail, because new anthers will be much more convenient to install when everything is assembled.