Do-it-yourself Citroen c4 steering rack repair photo report

Gentlemen, a question for backfilling. .. more precisely, it is probably necessary to start with the background. hydraulic is not working. You turn the steering wheel like on a Soviet classic. at a speed when you turn to the right (even slightly), the sound is like the wheel is catching on something, buzzing and crackling. a friend who has his modest service said that this is definitely power steering. and now closer to the point. a friend’s hands are sharpened as needed, there is experience in repairing a hydracha, but not on Citroens. ready to take. he explained to me in this way, if there are repair kits for the rail, then of course you can do it. So here's the question: on the same existential I saw rail repair kits. but there is no description of what is included in the kit, only the article and manufacturer. I tried to search with a search engine but I can not find anything worthwhile. maybe someone came across and knows what repair kits are and what's in them? Well, or the second option can you pick up some from other models?

Post has been edited by looka: 23 August 2013 – 08:13

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Aug 23, 2013

Buy from analysis, 7-8 thousand cheaper than a repair kit

Replacing the Citroen C4 steering rack may not be needed if the steering rack can be repaired, which is not shameful to entrust to specialists. But the removal and reinstallation of the repaired part is a matter that can be done by hand.

First you need to remove the wheels and hang the front of the car. Then block the steering wheel so as not to break the safety cable when reinstalling.

Next you need unscrew the cardan mounts with a key of 13, and unscrew the two bolts securing the hatch, for easier reassembly. After that, dismantle the steering tips and stabilizer struts. Then remove the protection, if it is installed.

Further, this video with instructions will show how the steering rack is removed on the C4.

Citroen C4 Thoughts on VTS › Logbook › The end of the long-awaited steering rack repair or How to make a steering rack for 1250r

Hello everyone!
You can congratulate me, I made my rail and I am very pleased, but I am still afraid and I look at the gur liquid level at every opportunity!
Now, in order, in general, those who read my entry about Bushings instead of oil seals in the rail will now understand what it is about! First of all, they gave the shaft for grinding, removed 0.25 from it, by the way, our shaft is 24mm thick,

Then they made 2 bushings from PTFE, why from PTFE? we thought that it was fatter and most likely it would be better to hold liquid, but during installation they broke both bushings, the second time we went to do it and decided to make everything from caprolon, that is, they made a bushing for the stuffing box that is in the housing,

Behind the stuffing box there is a ring, they made it from caprolon,

Then the bushing for the stuffing box, which is in an iron cage on the right edge, and the bushing on the rail itself was also made of caprolon,

The inner diameter of all the bushings was 23.8mm, I washed the rail housing inside, put everything in, the shaft of course entered very tightly, filled with lithol the part where the worm stands, set up the rail as it should, for help how to do it, thanks to VovaNishcheC4 and thanks to him for everything , helped a lot) Well, I set it up and put it on the car,

I assembled the entire suspension, with new steering tips, rods, ball joints, silent blocks on the levers, and filled all the grenades with grease again, changed the oil in the box, poured ATF into the tank, and started pumping, pumping, everything is fine, it does not flow anywhere, at the moment the mileage after the repair was 250 km., and while pah pah everything is fine, the liquid does not go anywhere, although the first day the steering wheel was tight, but now it has already developed. Later when I drive about 1000-2000km. I'll post how things go.If all goes well, this would be a great method for a rail overhaul! So also the cheap method gave 1250 rubles for everything against stupidly 2 new oil seals for 4000 rubles, a 6000 rubles for the rails, and a new rail for 14000 rubles!
Also after a few days of skiing, we decided to meet the old owner of Nickitoss and take some good photos! Also subscribe to his car Dodge Stratus 2.4 MT very interesting car!

Citroen C4 Thoughts on VTS › Logbook › Steering rack removal, repair, and suspension maintenance + A few questions (Part 1)

I drove for a month, everything was fine, but the right boot of the steering rack was torn, and the right steering rod was knocking, but I never encountered racks, and I just bought a car, I wanted to ride, have fun, and not sit in the garage and spend money, but as it turned out, I'd rather sit in the garage. The rail leaked, it was decided to buy spare parts and repair it all, and while the spare parts were coming to me, I filled in the sealant for Hi-Gear GURA, and it really helped, the rail stopped flowing, and then the spare parts arrived, drove the car into the garage, put it on “bricks” and began to disassemble ...

The end of the lower engine mount also came, removed the bracket (4 bolts of the bracket itself, and 1 bolt from the cushion to the subframe) and the drive must be pulled out complete with the cushion bracket from the diff to the wheel, it barely came out when it was removed, I realized that the end had come and outboard bearing, by the way, it is held by a washer that is clogged onto the shaft (I don’t know if it is clogged or pressed, I haven’t installed it yet)

And he went to the rail, unscrewed 4 star bolts of the subframe itself (rear and in the middle), unscrewed the studs that hold the rail itself, the hoses that go to the tank, pulled out the aluminum protection of the rail, unscrewed the cardan under the pedals (by the way, before doing any actions with the rail you need to lock the steering wheel on “straight wheels” and do not touch it until the repair is completed) and here it is a rail.
The situation is not very good, the new rail costs a lot, the rails from the showdown are somehow not trustworthy, but to take a repair kit ... until it is clear exactly what condition the shaft is in ... By the way, who has come across this, the better it is to clean the rust from the shaft, and if you have to polish it, then how and what? That's all for today, tomorrow I will order an outboard bearing, drive anthers, disassemble the rail and think what to do with it, as a result I will tell you what happened!

Bright French affordable sedan

Message xandr » 14 Aug 2013, 08:14

Message Alixx583 » Aug 14, 2013, 08:47

That's from the 408 club
Having bought the car in September 2012, I immediately drove into the pit for interest to see what and how. So, with a run of less than 200 km, when the right tie rod was rocking up and down, a distinct knock was heard. After driving 10,000 and pointing out this fact to the dealer during an oil change, I did not expect another answer - a design feature. Today, running 19,000 backlash remained and the most interesting thing is not progressing. So this is what I don't understand. I drove into one service where I had always serviced the previous cars before, and so the specialist said maybe the tie rod could be replaced.
If you look

Part number 2 can be tightened.
Item #3 can be changed.
Tie rod is a common disease not only on Citroens.

Message Alexx221988 » 14 Aug 2013, 14:03

Contacted with the replacement of steering rods on the Chevrolet Aveo))
By experience. there were no original rods, since the steering rack is sold as an assembly from the factory, but there are types of “analogues” (I don’t know how it is on a Citroen with this case)
having bought an analogue and changing the steering wheel “to full” when turning the steering wheel, the wheels began to rub against the engine compartment and for a year I had to drive without turning the steering wheel))

Moral of the fable: if you undertake to change the steering rods, then only for the original))

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Steering rack bug or feature Rating:

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Feel free to put “not original”, I have steering tips, FEBI ball joints, before that they were TRW.

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do not buy non-original! they are shorter (((340 mm and you need 360 mm.

Tell me someone changed the seals on the steering rack.

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• Group: Sitrovod
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• Auto: Citroen Berlingo M59 1.6; C3-1 1.4 manual transmission; C3-2 1.4 CD; С4 1.6 automatic transmission

ronium (9.10.2009, 17:42) wrote:

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• Group: Sitrovod
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ronium (9.10.2009, 17:42) wrote:

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• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1659
• Registration: 21 October 08
• City: Lipetsk
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• Auto: LR FL2 HSE

ronium (9.10.2009, 15:43) wrote:

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Post has been edited by ronium: 15 October 2009 – 19:56

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• Group: Novice
• Posts: 1
• Registration: 27 August 09
• City: Moscow region, Dubna
• Auto: citroen c 4

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• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1129
• Registration: 17 November 08
• Moscow city
• Gender: Male
• Auto: Citroen Berlingo M59 1.6; C3-1 1.4 manual transmission; C3-2 1.4 CD; С4 1.6 automatic transmission

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• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 94
• Registration: 14 February 09
• City: Moscow
• Gender: Male
• Auto: C4, 2005 onwards 130,000 km. run.

Somewhere on the net I met a steering rack tightening technique for a dealer network of workshops, with a tool, moments and other things. I find it - I'll post it.

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Post has been edited by killer0425: 26 March 2010 – 22:03

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Post has been edited by ser37: 27 March 2010 – 20:47

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+9% per checkmate
and next time for the message “solid text” perhaps we will also add percent.
Nord

Post has been edited by Nord: 06 April 2010 – 20:37

Hello everyone!
I have C4 2008 onwards. Now the mileage is 23000. The warranty ended a week ago.
Something was rattling in the steering rack. 🙁 The first knocks appeared a month ago. At the next annual MOT, I drew the attention of the receiving master in the service to this. They replaced my tie rods under warranty. (without tips) and anthers. After MOT, I drove almost 1000 km.
And so. A couple of days ago the noise came back. And it knocks harder than it was before the replacement.
Removed the wheel today. watched. The sound is not coming from the steering tips, but from somewhere inside. And on the right thrust, the knock is felt stronger than on the left. Play on the steering wheel is not felt.
It sounds like it's on a running car or not.
On the move, a knock is heard in the cabin, felt on the steering wheel and on the floor.
The rail is dry, no drips. fluid level is normal.

What else to watch?
Connoisseurs, help!

Most likely. I'm right. For “your know-how” turned to me with a request to make bushings for the repair of rails.

Such is the pedantry. And you said you don't have to.

Re: How long ago? interesting for statistics. > Are you an extra? Let the material remain behind the veil.

Let it be. I do not care. This is not my know-how, but Yura got it on the site after I offered him to buy correct bushings and shaft work from me. ;-))

Of course, you can lay out the dimensions and how to fix it, where and how much to grind. But then what will I earn money on. Officials usually send to replace it with a new one (50 thousand rubles), and here we are for 15 with a replacement.

I won't post it either, it's not making money for me. This is a workout for the mind and hands.

Come to us, we will replace the rail for you. You will come and sort it out, inspect what and how. Maybe we will make friends.

No, we're not friends. I can't afford it. Sorry for being candid. ;-)) I have already been thrown by “friends” in the service, I have enough for now.
How it is arranged, how to repair, where, how much, what materials and technologies I know well What I wish you too. ;-))
I also offered Yura Lexia, but he refused.

I'll go to my friend and see what happened to Berlingos. I hope initialization helps.

We continue the theme of reiki!
Yesterday I tinkered with the rail, and took a picture of something.
So so! There can be several sources of knocking from the steering wheel;

1. If the tie rod ball joint is gouged.

2. There is a gap between the rack rod and the rack rod drive gear.

3. Killed steering tips

4. There was a gap between the rail rod guide and the rail rod itself located on the passenger side

5. Cardan steering

Now we consider each point in turn.

Item 1. Rack rods.
The thrusts turned out to be not important, one of them “died” 100%, had a backlash of about half a millimeter. With a slight movement of the hand, everything was walking inside the ball joint. 100% knock source.

How to dismantle traction? If the rail is still on the car, then without special devices it will be quite difficult to unscrew the traction. It is necessary to fix the rack rod with a special device

find somewhere the key with which the traction is unscrewed

and thus everything turns away

Of course, no one has such devices, only in the service. Therefore, I am writing how to unscrew it without consequences on the removed rail.
We remove the rail from the car, pull off the anthers. We take the rail almost to the extreme position on the side of the rod drive, thus.

through the wooden lining we clamp the rail for the rod in a vice

well, then we unscrew the traction without consequences with such “garbage”

I didn’t take a picture as I clamped it in a vise, my vise died, I went to a neighbor. I think everything is clear here.
Installing new rods is exactly the same.

Point 2. Rack gap.
Send somewhere else if you are told that the rake is not regulated here. REGULATED. This rail also had to be adjusted. How to check backlash? I noticed that there is play when the stem is in the “Wheels straight” position. You move it a couple of centimeters relative to the rail (as if turning the wheels), there is no backlash. Therefore, it will have to be regulated.
We take the rack rod drive with our hand, and twist it left and right, as if twitching.

in my case there was a distinct knock. At the same time, rotating, I press the rod, the knock disappears.

Conclusion: Adjustment required. I regulated with the help of such a “garbage” that I welded myself. 18 on one side, 17 on the other.

Twisting the rod drive shaft, he began to tighten it clockwise until the knock disappeared. (One hand photographed, so “catch up” with all the actions in meaning)

The knock is gone. Twisted about 40 degrees. After twisting, you don’t need to fix, core, or something else.

Point 3. Tips.
The tips are a bitch, the weight is capricious. From them, knocks are also possible throughout the steering. Moreover, if the finger walks inside the tip, it pulls the entire steering wheel to die, so change and don't let it happen. There should not be any backlashes, everything should sit tightly and not walk anywhere. On this rail, the tip comes to an end.

Item 4. Rack rod guide.
On this rail, the guide is “live”. There are no gaps or walks. After tightening the rails, I checked again. Therefore, it makes no sense to disassemble in this place.

Inside, it looks like there is a type of “fluoroplastic ring” along which the stem runs. In the rack housing, this entire assembly is held by a retaining ring, which is pulled out, and the whole thing is pulled off.

Item 5. Cardan.
The kardachik can also rattle. It also happens to have a backlash. But it still rarely fails. Solved only by replacement.

Well, that's about all.
Summing up what to pay initial attention to when knocking on the rack.

1. Steering tips.
2. Tie rods.
3. Appeared clearance requiring adjustment.
4. Gap between stem and rack O-ring.
5. Cardan steering.

I would also advise you to pay attention to the stabilizer rods, because. they tap too. Although they have nothing to do with the rail, many can make a mistake, they hear a knock, and where the hell does it come from (this is for those who are not very experienced).

Last edited by Yus on 06/25/2011 09:53 AM, edited 1 time in total.

Poor quality roads often lead to the need to produce car chassis repairincluding the steering rack. If repairs are not carried out in time, the machine will simply cease to function. In this article we will consider the features of repairing the steering rack Citroen C5.

CITROEN C5 has hydraulic mechanism. Driving such a car is easy and comfortable due to the connection of the power steering, which increases the effort applied by the driver. The rail on the Citroen C5 consists of the following structural elements:

• entrance;
• spool bushings;
• dust cap;
• retaining ring;
• spool seal;
• spool;
• bearing;
  
• stem seal;
• back;
• clamp nut;
• back seal;
• rod piston;
• stem bushing;
• rack rod;
  
• spool nuts;
• spool plug;
• spool worm;
• bypass tubes;
• exit.

The power steering is located behind the steering wheel and makes it easier to turn.

The following signs indicate malfunctions of the Citroen C5 steering rack:

1. Deaf rattling in front suspension area. It is usually most noticeable when driving on uneven surfaces. If the steering wheel is turned to the extreme position, then the knock will decrease. If you keep the steering wheel straight, it gets stronger.
2. Leakage of hydraulic fluid.
3. Oil stains under the front of the car.
4. Noisy pump.
5. Violation of the steering wheel: arbitrarily rotates, locks up, sticks when released, turns poorly in one direction, and normally in the other.
6. No effort while turning the steering wheel.
7. Effort is reduced when the steering wheel is in a level position.

If at least one of the listed signs is found, it is necessary to immediately contact the service center for diagnostics, identifying the cause of problems and fixing them. The longer you delay with the repair, the more serious the consequences of the malfunction will be, and the repair will cost much more, and a complete replacement of the mechanism is not ruled out.

To the most common reasons rail breakdowns on C5 include:

• driving on uneven roads with pits and potholes;
• violation of the rules for operating a car;
• wear of parts;
• damage to the mechanism due to an accident.
  

Bumps, jumps during a trip on a bad road can easily lead to loosening of the steering rack or damage to its parts. Also very often lead to malfunctions the actions of the drivers themselves, namely:

• frequent holding the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5 seconds;
• spinning the engine when the steering wheel is in the extreme position;
• turning the steering wheel in winter immediately after the engine warms up;
• untimely diagnosis and replacement of damaged anthers;
• frequent rides on the curb;
• sharp acceleration at the extreme position of the steering wheel.

Wear of rings, seals, anthers, seals and other parts often leads to the need for repair steering rack. An accident also often causes defects on the mechanism, out of tune with its individual parts or the entire mechanism.

It is not always possible to find out the cause of the malfunction of the steering mechanism on your own, especially if you are new to driving. Therefore, it is best to contact a car service. The subsequent operation of the mechanism, as well as the prevention of monetary costs due to poor-quality repairs, largely depends on the correct determination of the cause of the malfunction.

Before diagnosis dismantle the assembly and clean it from dirt. This will make it possible to inspect the rail well for defects. Then a visual inspection and diagnostics are carried out on a hydraulic stand, which simulates the operating conditions of the rack. Using this method, specialists study the operation of hydraulics and the mechanics of the steering mechanism. In the process of diagnostics, in addition to the rail itself, neighboring nodes are also checked, parts whose malfunction or defects could lead to malfunctions in the mechanism.

Rail repair on Citroene C5 should be carried out in a car service. Unskilled work and intervention in the mechanism can lead not only to its complete breakdown, but also to the occurrence of an emergency due to a malfunction of the rail. In addition, after a thorough diagnosis and repair, a car service requires testing using a hydraulic stand, which allows you to establish how the steering mechanism works and whether the repair work has been carried out correctly.

Depending on the type and degree of malfunction, the repair of Citroen C5 rails can be superficial or complete. In cases where repair work is useless, the mechanism is replaced with a new one.

Surface repair includes the following types of work:

• washing, cleaning parts;
• grinding parts;
• replacement of a certain part (seals, sealing rings, anthers, shaft piston, support bushings);
• casing sleeve.
  

Leakage of oil, hydraulic fluid is most often eliminated thanks to such work.

Full repair includes cleaning of all parts, as well as replacement with new parts such as:

• shaft, together with its chrome coating and grinding;
• lateral gross clamps;
• tie rod;
• distributor;
• high pressure pipes;
• replacement of elements using a repair kit (it includes oil seals, seals, bushings, shaft clamps).
  

When replacing parts with a repair kit or restoring the shaft is pointless and will not give any results, it is recommended to completely replace the machine with a new one. It can be purchased at a car dealership, or ordered online. This may be a new steering rack or removed from a used car, but in good condition. It is necessary to replace and adjust the steering rack exclusively in service center.

In this video you will learn all about CITROEN C5 steering rack repair.

It is believed that replacing the right support bushing is a panacea for knocking - this is not always the case, cars come to us for repairs with such a magical “upgrade”. view of the rail on the right, with the rack shaft removed. the right cavity of the crankcase is visible filled with epoxy resin - if it does not fly out immediately, after 2-3 months you have to redo it.

. Here is another option - "reinforced". here the carpenter put his hand - the structure is fixed with a bolt.

. jumble of 2 bushings, and even with pieces of foil around the edges. the person who created this work clearly could stir up the hadron collider. the result is 3 bushings, along with the factory one, i.e. 3D repair. issue price of about 8000 p.

..here's another option - a self-tapping screw. "a la Tula Lefty". as a result of installation, the steering wheel does not return from the turn. well, at least it looks good.

. the result of such a repair is a reduced angle of rotation to the right, constantly tearing anthers of steering rods, which leads to the “death” of the gear pair in turbo mode.

. stock up on popcorn, there will be a movie.