Repair of the steering rack citroen c4 do it yourself photo report

Gentlemen, a question for filling. .. more precisely, it is probably necessary to start with the prehistory. the hydrach does not work. you twist the steering wheel like on the Soviet classics. at speed when you turn to the right (even slightly), the sound is as if the wheel is clinging to something, buzzing and rattling. a friend who has his own modest service said that this is definitely a power steering. and now closer to the point. a friend's hands are sharpened what is needed, there is experience in repairing a gidrach but not on a Citroen. ready to take. He explained to me in this way, if there are repair kits for the rail, then of course you can do it. So here's the question: on the same existential I saw the repair kits of the rail. but there is no description of what is included in the kit, only the article and the manufacturer. I tried to search with a search engine, but I don't find anything good. maybe someone came across and knows what repair kits are and what is in them? well, or the second option can you pick up some from other models?

Post has been edited looka: 23 August 2013 - 08:13

• Like
• I do not like

mikhalich 23 Aug 2013

Buy indiscriminately, 7-8 thousand cheaper than a repair kit

Replacing the steering rack of the Citroen C4 may not be necessary if the rack can be repaired, which is not a shame to entrust to specialists. But the removal and re-installation of the repaired part is a business that can be done by hand.

First you need to remove the wheels and hang the front of the car. Then lock the steering wheel so as not to break the safety loop during re-installation.

Further it is necessary unscrew the cardan fasteners with a key of 13, and unscrew the two bolts securing the hatch for a more convenient re-assembly. After that, dismantle the steering tips and stabilizer struts. Then remove the protection, if installed.

Further, how the removal of the steering rack on the C4 takes place will be shown in this video with instructions.

Citroen C4 Thoughts about VTS ›Logbook› The end of the long-awaited steering rack repair or How to make a steering rack for 1250r

Hello everyone!
You can congratulate me, I made my own rail and I am very pleased, but I am still afraid and I look at the level of gur liquid at every opportunity!
Now, in order, in general, whoever read my post about Bushings instead of oil seals in the rail, he will now understand what it is about! First of all, we gave the shaft for grinding, removed 0.25 from it, by the way, our shaft is 24mm thick,

Then they made 2 bushings from PTFE, why from PTFE? they thought that it was fatter and it would most likely be better to hold the liquid, but during installation they broke both bushings, the second time we went to do it and decided to do everything from caprolon, that is, they made a bushing for the oil seal that stands in the body,

There is a ring behind the oil seal, they made it from caprolon,

Then the sleeve for the oil seal, which stands in an iron clip from the right edge, and the sleeve itself on the rail was also made of caprolon,

The inner diameter of all bushings was 23.8mm, I washed the rack body inside, put everything on, the shaft of course entered very tightly, hammered the part where the worm was with lithol, adjusted the rail as it should, for help how to do it, thanks to VovaNishcheC4 and thanks to him for everything , helped a lot) Well, I set it up and put it on the car,

I assembled the entire suspension, with new steering tips, rods, ball, silent blocks on the levers, and re-filled all the grenades with grease, changed the oil in the box, poured ATF into the tank, and began to pump, pumped it, everything is fine, it does not flow anywhere, at the moment the mileage after the repair was 250 km., and while ugh ugh everything is fine, the liquid does not go anywhere, although the first day the steering wheel was tight, but now it has already been developed. Later when I drive about 1000-2000 km. unsubscribe how things are.If all goes well, this would be a great method for overhauling a rail! So also the cheap method gave 1250r for everything against stupidly 2 new oil seals for 4000r, drills for 6000r, and a new rail of 14000r!
Also after a few days of skiing, we decided to meet with the old owner Nickitoss and take some good photos! Also subscribe to his car Dodge Stratus 2.4 MT very interesting car!

Citroen C4 Thoughts about VTS ›Logbook› Steering rack removal, repair, and suspension maintenance + A few questions (Part 1)

I drove for a month, everything was fine, but the right boot of the steering rack was torn, and the right steering rod knocked, but I never came across the racks, and I just bought a car, I wanted to ride, have fun, and not sit in the garage and spend money, but as it turned out it would be better if I sat in the garage. The rail leaked, it was decided to buy spare parts and repair it all, but while the spare parts were driving to me, I filled in a sealant for GURA Hi-Gear, and it really helped, the rail stopped flowing, and now the spare parts arrived, drove the car into the garage, put it on "Bricks" and began to disassemble ...

The end of the lower engine cushion also came, removed the bracket (4 bolts the bracket itself, and 1 bolt from the cushion to the subframe) and the drive must be pulled out assembled with the pillow bracket from the diff to the wheel, he barely came out when he took it off, I realized that the end had come and outboard bearing, by the way it is held by a washer which is hammered onto the shaft

And he went to the rail, unscrewed 4 star bolts of the subframe itself (back and in the middle), unscrewed the studs that hold the rail itself, the hoses that go to the tank, pulled out the aluminum protection of the rail, unscrewed the cardan under the pedals, (by the way, before doing any actions with the rail you need to lock the steering wheel on "straight wheels" and do not touch it until the end of the repair) and here it is the rail.
The situation is not very good, the new rail costs a lot, the rails from the showdown, as there is no trust, but to take the repair kit ... it is not yet clear exactly what condition the shaft is in ... By the way, who faced this, the better to clean the rust from the shaft, and if you have to polish how and what? That's all for today, tomorrow I will order the outboard bearing, drive anthers, disassemble the rail and think about what to do with it, as a result I will tell you what happened!

Flamboyant French affordable sedan

Message Xandr »14 Aug 2013, 08:14

Message Alixx583 »14 Aug 2013, 08:47

Here from the 408 club
Having bought the car in September 2012, I immediately drove into the pit for interest to see what and how. So, with a mileage of less than 200 km, a distinct knock was heard when the right steering rod swayed up and down. Having passed 10,000 and at the oil change indicated to the dealer this fact, he did not expect another answer - a design feature. Today, the 19,000 mileage has remained and, what is most interesting, it is not progressing. So that's what it is, I don’t understand. I drove into one service where before that I had always served the previous cars, and so the specialist said that the steering rod could be replaced.
If you look

Part No. 2 can be tightened.
Part # 3 can be changed.
Steering rod is a common disease, not only on Citroens.

Message Alexx221988 »14 Aug 2013, 14:03

Contacted the replacement of the steering rods for the Chevrolet Aveo))
By experience. there were no original rods, since the steering rack is sold assembled from the factory, but there are “analogs” type (I don’t know how on the Citroen with this case)
having bought an analogue and changed when turning the steering wheel "to full" the wheels began to rub against the engine compartment and had to drive for a year without tightening the steering wheel))

Moral of the fable: if you undertake to change the steering rods, then only to the original))

• 2 Pages
• ←
• 1
• 2

• You cannot create a new topic
• You cannot reply to the topic

Steering rack bug or feature Rating:

• 
• 

Put it boldly "not the original", I have steering tips, FEBI ball joints, before that there were TRW.

• 
• 

• 
• 

neoriginal not to buy! they are shorter (((340 mm and 360 mm is needed.

Tell someone changed the oil seals on the steering rack.

• 
• 

• 
• 

• 
• 

• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1129
• Member since 17 November 08
• Moscow city
• Gender: Male
• Auto: Citroen Berlingo M59 1.6; С3-1 1.4 manual transmission; C3-2 1.4 CD; С4 1.6 automatic transmission

ronium (9.10.2009, 17:42) wrote:

• 
• 

• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1659
• Member since 21 October 08
• City: Lipetsk
• Gender: Male
• Auto: LR FL2 HSE

ronium (9.10.2009, 17:42) wrote:

• 
• 

• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1659
• Member since 21 October 08
• City: Lipetsk
• Gender: Male
• Auto: LR FL2 HSE

ronium (9.10.2009, 15:43) wrote:

• 
• 

• 
• 

Post has been edited by ronium: 15 October 2009 - 19:56

• 
• 

• Group: Beginner
• Posts: 1
• Registration Date: 27 August 09
• City: Moscow region, Dubna
• Auto: citroen c 4

• 
• 

• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 1129
• Member since 17 November 08
• Moscow city
• Gender: Male
• Auto: Citroen Berlingo M59 1.6; С3-1 1.4 manual transmission; C3-2 1.4 CD; С4 1.6 automatic transmission

• 
• 

• Group: Sitrovod
• Posts: 94
• Member since 14 February 09
• City: Moscow
• Gender: Male
• Auto: C4, year 2005 130,000 km mileage.

Somewhere on the network I met a method of tightening the steering rack for a dealer network of workshops, with tools, moments and so on. I will find it - I will post it.

• 
• 

Post edited by killer0425: 26 March 2010 - 22:03

• 
• 

Post has been editedser37: 27 March 2010 - 20:47

• 
• 

• 
• 

+ 9% per checkmate
and the next time after the message "in solid text", perhaps we will also add percent.
Nord

Post has been editedNord: 06 April 2010 - 20:37

Hello everyone!
I have a C4 2008 onwards. Now the mileage is 23000. The warranty ended a week ago.
Something knocked on the steering rack. 🙁 The first knocks appeared a month ago. At the last annual maintenance, I drew the attention of the master inspector in the service to this. They replaced the steering rods for me under warranty. (without tips) and anthers. After that, I left almost 1000 sq. M.
And so. a couple of days ago the knock appeared again. Moreover, it knocks harder than it was before the replacement.
I took off the wheel today. watched. the sound does not come from the steering tips, but from somewhere inside. Moreover, on the right pull, the knock is felt more strongly than on the left. No play on the steering wheel is felt.
It knocks both on a running machine and not.
On the move, the knock is heard in the cabin, felt on the steering wheel and on the floor.
The rail is dry, without drips. the slurry level is normal.

What else to watch?
Connoisseurs, help!

Most likely. I'm right. Because “your know-how” asked me to make bushings for repairing rails.

Such is the fagot. And you didn't need to say.

Re: How long ago? interesting for statistics. > Are you an extra? Let the material remain behind the curtain.

Yes, let it be. I do not care. This is not my know-how, but Yura got it on the website after I offered him to buy the correct bushings and work on shafts from me. ;-))

You can, of course, lay out the dimensions and how to fix it, where and how much to grind. But then what will I earn money on. Officials are usually sent to be replaced with a new one (50t.rub), and here we are for 15 with a replacement.

I will not post it either, this is not making money for me. This is a warm-up for the mind and hands.

Come to us, we will replace the slat for you. Come, you will understand, examine what and how. Probably, we will be friends. I also look at the lexis and indulge in it)).

No, we won't make friends. I can't afford it. Sorry to be frank. ;-)) I've already been thrown by “friends” in the service, that's enough for me for now.
How it is arranged, how to repair it, where, how much, what materials and technologies I know very well What I wish for you. ;-))
I also offered Lexia to Yura, he refused.

I'll go to my friend and see what happened to Berlingos. Initialization will hopefully help.

Continuing the theme of reiki!
Yesterday I was still digging around with the rail, and took pictures of something.
So so! There may be several sources of knocking from the steering wheel;

1. If gouged in the ball joint of the tie rod.

2. There is a gap between the rack rod and the rack rod drive gear.

3. Killed steering tips

4. There is a gap between the rail rod guide and the rack rod itself located on the passenger side

5. Steering cardan

Now we consider each item in turn.

Item 1. Rod rods.
The thrust was not important, one of them "died" 100%, had a backlash of about half a millimeter. With a slight movement of the hand, everything walked inside the ball joint. 100% knock source.

How to dismantle the rods? If the rail is still on the car, then it will be quite difficult to unscrew the rods without special devices. It is necessary to fix the rod of the rail using a special device

find somewhere the key with which the rods are unscrewed

and thus everything turns away

Of course, no one has such devices, only in the service. Therefore, I am writing how to unscrew it without consequences on the removed rail.
We remove the rail from the car, pull off the anthers. We take the rail almost to the extreme position from the side of the rod drive, in this way.

through wooden lining we clamp the rail by the rod in a vice

well, and then such a "garbage" we unscrew the traction without consequences

I didn't take pictures in a vice, my vice died, I went to a neighbor. I think everything is clear here.
The installation of new rods is exactly the same.

Point 2. Rail clearance.
Send it somewhere else if you are told that the rake is not regulated here. REGULATED. This rail also had to be adjusted. How to check the backlash? I noticed that there is play when the stem is in the “Wheel straight” position. You move it a couple of centimeters relative to the rail (as if turning the wheels), there is no backlash. Therefore, it will have to be regulated.
We take with our hand the drive rod of the rack, and twist it to the left and right, as if twitching.

in my case there was a distinct knock. At the same time, rotating, I tighten the stem, the knock disappears.

Conclusion - adjustment is required. Regulated with the help of such "garbage" which I cooked myself. On one side, the nut is 18, on the other, 17.

Twisting by the shaft of the rod drive, he began to tighten clockwise, until the knock disappeared. (One hand was taking pictures, so “catch up” with all actions within the meaning)

The knock was gone. I twisted it about 40 degrees. After twisting, fix, core, or something else is not needed.

Point 3. Tips.
Tips bitch, capricious weight. From them, knocks are also possible throughout the steering. Moreover, if the finger walks inside the tip, it pulls the entire steering wheel with it towards dying, so change and do not allow it. There should not be any backlashes, everything should sit tight and not walk anywhere. On this rail, the tip comes to an end.

Clause 4. Rail rod guide.
On this rail the guide is “live”. There are no gaps or walks. After tightening the rail, I checked it again. Therefore, it makes no sense to disassemble in this place.

Inside, there seems to be a type of "fluoroplastic ring" on which the stem goes. In the rail housing, this entire assembly is held by a retaining ring, which is pulled out, and the whole thing is pulled off.

Clause 5. Cardanchik.
Cardachik can also rattle. There is also a backlash in it. But he still breaks down extremely rarely. Solved only by replacement.

Well, that seems to be all.
We summarize the bottom line on what to pay initial attention to when knocking on the rail.

1. Steering tips.
2. Steering rods.
3. The resulting gap requiring adjustment.
4. The gap between the stem and the rail O-ring.
5. Steering cardan.

I would also advise you to pay attention to the stabilizer links, because they are tapping too. Although they have nothing to do with the rail, many can make a mistake, hear a knock, and where the hell is he coming from (this is for the less experienced).

Last edited by Yus on 06/25/2011 09:53 AM, edited 1 time in total.

Low-quality roads often lead to the need to produce car running gear repair, including the steering rack. If repair work is not carried out in time, the machine will simply stop functioning. In this article, we will consider the features of repairing the steering rack. Citroen C5.

CITROEN C5 has hydraulic mechanism... The control of such a car is easy and comfortable due to the connection of the power steering, which increases the effort applied by the driver. The rail on the Citroen C5 consists of the following structural elements:

• entrance;
• spool bushings;
• dust cap;
• retaining ring;
• spool oil seal;
• spool;
• bearing;
  
• stem oil seal;
• back;
• clamp nut;
• back seal;
• rod piston;
• stem bushings;
• rail rod;
  
• spool nuts;
• spool plug;
• spool worm;
• bypass tubes;
• exit.

The power steering is located behind the steering wheel and facilitates steering.

The following signs indicate a malfunction of the Citroen C5 steering rack:

1. Deaf tapping in the area of ​​the front suspension... It is usually most noticeable when driving on uneven surfaces. If the steering wheel is turned to the extreme position, the knocking will decrease. If the steering wheel is kept straight, it is strengthened.
2. Hydraulic fluid leaks.
3. Oil stains under the front of the car.
4. The pump is noisy.
5. Disruption of the steering wheel: it rotates randomly, blocks, sticks when released, turns badly in one direction, and normal in the other.
6. There is no effort when turning the steering wheel.
7. Effort is reduced when the steering wheel is level.

If you find at least one of the listed signs, you must urgently contact the service center for diagnostics, identifying the cause of the problem and eliminating it. The longer you delay with the repair, the more serious the consequences of the malfunction will be, and the repair will be much more expensive, and a complete replacement of the mechanism is not excluded.

To the most common reasons breakdowns of the rail on the C5 include:

• driving on uneven roads with pits and bumps;
• violation of the rules for operating a car;
• wear of parts;
• damage to the mechanism due to an accident.
  

Bumps, jumps while driving on a bad road can easily lead to loosening of the steering rack or damage to its parts. Also very often lead to malfunctions the actions of the drivers themselves, namely:

• often holding the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5 seconds;
• untwisting the engine when the steering wheel is in the extreme position;
• turning the steering wheel in the winter immediately after the engine has warmed up;
• untimely diagnostics and replacement of damaged anthers;
• frequent arrivals to the curb;
• sharp acceleration at the extreme position of the steering wheel.

Wear of rings, seals, anthers, oil seals and other parts often leads to the need for repair steering rack... An accident also often causes the appearance of defects on the mechanism, the breakdown of its individual parts or the entire mechanism completely.

It is not always possible to find out the cause of a malfunction of the steering mechanism on your own, especially if you are a beginner in driving. Therefore, it is best to contact a car service. The subsequent operation of the mechanism, as well as the prevention of cash costs due to poor-quality repairs, largely depends on the correct determination of the cause of the malfunction.

Before diagnosis dismantle the unit and clean it from the dirt. This will make it possible to inspect the rail well for defects. Then a visual inspection and diagnostics are carried out on a hydraulic stand, which simulates the operating conditions of the rail. With this method, specialists study the operation of hydraulics and the mechanics of the steering mechanism. In the process of diagnostics, in addition to the rail itself, neighboring nodes are also checked, parts whose malfunction or defects could lead to malfunctions in the mechanism.

Rail repair on Citroen C5 need to be carried out in a car service. Unskilled work and interference with the mechanism can lead not only to its complete breakdown, but also to an emergency due to a malfunction of the rail. In addition, after thorough diagnostics and repairs, in a car service, testing is carried out using a hydraulic stand, which allows you to establish how the steering mechanism works and whether the repair work has been carried out correctly.

Depending on the type and degree of malfunction, the repair of Citroen C5 rails can be superficial or complete. In cases where repair work is useless, the mechanism is replaced with a new one.

Surface repair includes the following types of work:

• washing, cleaning of parts;
• grinding of parts;
• replacement of a certain part (oil seals, O-rings, anthers, shaft piston, support bushings);
• sleeve housing.
  

The leakage of oil, hydraulic fluid is most often eliminated precisely thanks to such works.

A complete repair includes cleaning all parts, as well as replacing the following parts with new ones:

• shaft, together with its chrome plating and grinding;
• lateral gross restraints;
• steering rod;
• distributor;
• high pressure pipes;
• replacement of elements with the help of a repair kit (it includes oil seals, seals, bushings, shaft restraints).
  

When replacing parts with a repair kit or restoring the shaft is pointless and will not give any results, it is completely recommended replace the mechanism with a new one... It can be purchased at a car dealership, or by ordering it yourself online. It can be a new steering rack or it can be removed from a used car, but in good condition. It is necessary to replace and adjust the steering rack exclusively in service center.

In this video you will learn all about repair steering rack CITROEN C5.

It is believed that replacing the right support sleeve is a panacea for knocking - this is not always the case, cars come to us for repairs with such a magical "modernization". view of the rack on the right, with the rack and pinion shaft removed. you can see the right crankcase cavity filled with epoxy resin - if it does not fly out immediately, after 2-3 months you have to redo it.

... here's another option - "reinforced". here the joiner put his hand - the structure is fixed with a bolt.

... a jumble of 2 sleeves, and even with pieces of foil around the edges. the person who created this work could obviously stir up the hadron collider. as a result, 3 bushings are obtained, together with the factory one, i.e. repair 3D. the price of the issue is about 8000 rubles.

.. here's another option - a self-tapping screw. "A la Tula Lefty." as a result of installation, the steering wheel does not return from the turn. Well, at least it looks soundly.

... the result of such a repair is a reduced turning angle to the right, constantly breaking anthers of the steering rods, which leads to the “death” of the gear pair in turbo mode.

... stock up on popcorn for a movie.