In detail: do-it-yourself Slavuta steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Probably, every Slavutovod-Tavrovod encountered a moment when a knock appeared in the steering rack in his car when driving on a paving stone or an uneven surface. Of course, experienced owners of this brand of car know that it is the steering rack that “knocks” and at least needs to be tightened. In our Slavuta car, it's also time to tighten the steering rack. We will show this process in this video clip. And so, in order to tighten the steering rack, we need a “pit” or a flyover, but you can also lie under the car, a special key for unscrewing the counter nut, which prevents the adjusting nut from unwinding, if there is no special key, then you can use a pry bar and a hammer, what we do in the video. You also need a key for 22, with which we will tighten the steering.
Note that for those who have engine protection installed, it is necessary to have a large ratchet and two nozzles for 14 (long and short).
Thank you) Helped) in the same spirit, continue)
The video is very harmful. I write everything as it really is. If there is a knock - change the factory worn bushing to a fluoroplastic bushing - it lasts for about 15 years. It is checked by twitching the steering rod from the side of the expansion tank. If you have beats, then the nut at the bottom does not need to be adjusted, but tightened. It is not regulated. Unscrew the locknut with a bicycle wrench. If the strength of the hands is not enough, you can rest against helping with the mount, you can do it as in the video. Tighten the nut all the way! and then unscrew back 1/8. Hang both front wheels and turn the steering wheel in both directions. There should be no snacking. If there is, then unscrew it another 1/8. Then lock it up and that's it. So, if the steering beats, then most likely before you some kind of ram tried to regulate it as in the video and put some kind of gap there or some other snowstorm, thereby dooming the rail to death - usually after that a pair of worm-rail must be replaced from constant riveting . I have a native rail of 150 thousand - like new. This is how it is described in the primer in the export slavuta.
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Video (click to play). |
MrAtlasis: here's a good comment, if it weren't for the insults. Firstly, even the factory bushings are not enough for more than 30-40 thousand km, so do not tell fairy tales about 15 years and 150 thousand kilometers. Secondly, not everyone always has a bicycle wrench, so the locknut is unscrewed with a pry bar and a hammer. Secondly, if you do not tighten the steering in time, then not only the plastic bushing will have to be changed, but also the steering rack bearings and possibly the rack itself. Finally, there is not a word about the gap in the video, it just shows how to tighten if there is a beating. I don’t know about you, but I removed my column and changed the bearing and bushing, because, apparently, before me, smart people like you, for 80 thousand mileage, never bothered to pull it up. Good luck with replacing the secondary bushing for 15 years or 150 thousand kilometers.
About the knock. Recently I found on sale a fluoroplastic sleeve for a rail that is absolutely identical in appearance to the factory one, but only white in color. DO NOT TAKE. In practice, the bushing plows grooves on the rail, although it runs longer than the factory one. You need to take a normal bushing - handicraft, just like a thick-walled tube. Then the rail goes (exactly in this place) 200 thousand. Do not take a bushing similar in appearance to the factory. 200 thousand if you have a rail lubricated normally and the nut from below is tightened to the stop and unscrewed by 1/8.
blah you would have the norms of the camera and the price you would not have)
For 20 years I hit Tavria more than 200 thousand, I didn’t touch the rail, but once a year I turned the valve (key 10) and dipped a little oil from the oiler. I cut a 6mm thread in the ball bearings and screwed in the oilers and lubricated with litol twice a year. The steering wheel was spinning with 1 finger, as if from an electric power steering.
HELLO, THIS WOULD BE ANYONE TO ADJUST THE SCENES ON VIDEO OR AT LEAST COMMENT LEAVE HOW AND WHAT)))
Thank you very much for the tip, I was just looking for how to tighten the rail without removing it, but the phrase at the end of the video - “enjoy the ride” is too much. (Max + slavuta 8 years old)
why such a perversion. It is relatively easy to put on/off.
And then everything is simple.
to loosen the nut. you can use a motorcycle wrench (for the exhaust pipe nut).
.No key goes there just like that. I tried, and if you find a sickle-shaped key of this size, climb in there. easier with a chisel. [/ Quote]
tightened the nut with a regular open-end wrench.
when setting up, it is desirable to remove the left wheel - it's easier)
simply. but it takes a little time.
removal of 20-25 minutes. installation 40 minutes.
but then he sat down and in normal conditions you can sort it out. instead of writhing like cancer with a chisel and a hammer under the car.
I studied the situation closely - I wrote above:
took less than a month ago Tavria himself.
the owner was not greedy, and changed and repaired everything and everyone in it.
he immediately said that the rail was sorted out recently.
in the car is a small Zhiguli-Chinese steering wheel.
so the rail was so clamped that it was the steering wheel and was not going to return itself at the sharpest turn.
It didn't suit me in any way.
and the next day I bought the car decided to adjust the rail.
and now, having a bunch of all kinds of tools, and the same sickle moto keys, what the hell did I do right away.
and could not break this counter nut with a chisel.
shorter spat and removed the rail.
it is removed really in 5 minutes, provided that the bolts are not rotten.
no problem.
and that's just in the grip of holding the rail, I managed to break the lock nut.
then loosen the tightness and tighten the lock nut. but not so much special.
installed on the car, too, in 5 minutes, but was ambushed with a steering shaft.
I pushed the shaft from the rail very hard into it and could not insert the bolt.
tormented by breaking his back on the threshold of the car probably an hour.
in the end, he spat and decided to remove the rack again and reinstall it, but paying attention to the “steering shaft-rod” moment.
so I think it's EASIER TO REMOVE THE RAIL. 
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The hydraulic power steering gearbox (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part of both cars with hydraulic power steering and cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the car can hardly be overestimated.
Steering rack parts wear out quickly enough, because. take on the bulk of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase gets into potholes and pits in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be carried out periodically, which allows you to identify all malfunctions at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
- The presence of knocks in the gearbox transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
- Increase the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
- Extraneous noise that occurs during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
- The presence of play in the steering rack, felt in the process of turning the steering wheel;
- Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Flowing steering rack with power steering
Any of these symptoms indicate a malfunction that must be fixed immediately. The lack of timely work carried out can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is detected, the car can be handed over to car service specialists or you can repair the steering rack yourself. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
Details
For a complete repair of the steering rack, the following spare parts and tools should be on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
- corrugation;
- gear shaft;
- bearing;
- lubricant mixture.
- octahedron key for 17;
- tools for mounting and dismounting of bearings;
- set of wrenches.
For the most high-quality repair, it is desirable to use a flyover or a viewing hole.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto a flyover or inspection hole, after which, using jacks, the car should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and the wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the tie rod ends, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer. The next step consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns of the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the gearbox of the hydraulic power steering. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on the parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
Unscrew protection
Two tie rod bolts
Traction removed
Loosen the fasteners
Loosen the pinch bolt
- Removing the rubber boot.
- Dismantling the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
- Removing the locknut that secures the rack shaft pressure cup.
- Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with light blows.
- Disassembly of the adjuster.
- Removing the adjusting glass.
- Dismantling the clamping piston.
Steering rack disassembly
After finishing work on disassembling the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from oil and dirt that have accumulated on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for mechanical damage that occurs during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in reverse order.
There are no significant differences between the repair of the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only the bushings and compositions of the fluids used to lubricate the parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above work, it is recommended to carry out the procedure for diagnosing wheel alignment.
The total time for which it is possible to repair the steering rack varies in the range from two to three hours. These repairs are classified as works of medium complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, are quite realistic to carry out even for a novice motorist who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Support sleeve installation
Cut off the rubber bands
Remove the circlip from the gear shaft
Knocked out needle bearing
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
Steering gear:
- Left case.
- Steering rack.
- Collar.
- Carter.
- Thrust bearing.
- Internal bearing.
- Outer bearing.
- Spacer sleeve.
- Lid.
- Sealant.
- Pinion shaft.
- Adjusting gasket.
- Reiki thrust.
- Spring.
- Lock-nut.
- Crankcase plug.
- Rail bushing.
- Right case. B. Size for selection of expansion pads. D - cavity for lubrication
Disassemble the steering mechanism in the following sequence:
Assemble and adjust the steering mechanism in the reverse order with the following features.
- Pre-lubricate the rack shaft and, filling the teeth with a grease consisting of 1.5 parts of Fiol-1 grease and one part of engine oil (only 50 g of such grease is needed), enter the rack into the crankcase from the short side.
- Put covers on the crankcase and securely fasten them with clamps.
- Insert the gear shaft into the crankcase so that it engages with the rack, also filling the teeth and bearings with grease.
- After installing the spacer sleeve and its full fit, measure the protrusion of the sleeve from the crankcase (dimension B in the figure "Steering mechanism"). The thickness of the gaskets is selected for the amount of protrusion. For this purpose, shims with a thickness of 0.1 are provided; 0.15; 0.5 mm.
- After selecting the desired thickness of the gaskets, close the crankcase with a lid and fasten with bolts, wrapping them evenly, but not completely. When tightening the bolts, turn the gear in both directions and check its axial movement. If, when tightening the bolts, the force of turning the gear increases, add shims between the cover and the crankcase. In the presence of axial play of the gear, reduce the thickness of the gaskets.
- Tighten the cover bolts only after final adjustment of the gear position. The moment of turning the gear with proper adjustment should be 0.02
0.1 N m (0.002. 0.010 kgf m). Axial play of the gear is not allowed.
To disassemble the shaft support, place the support in a vise, turn the technological part perpendicular to the shaft and remove it from the support (if the technological part was installed when the support was removed from the vehicle).
Remove the shaft, spring, bearing stop and bearing from the support. Then, using a screwdriver or a beard, remove the support sleeve from the shaft support. Remove dust and dirt from the parts and inspect their condition. If there is noticeable play in the bearing, and the support is deformed, damaged or has lost elasticity, replace the parts with new ones.
Assemble the shaft support in the reverse order. Insert the support bushing into the grooves of the support using a screwdriver or a beard. Then put the parts on the shaft in the sequence shown in the figure “Shaft support assembly” (previously lubricating the bearing with grease) and orienting the groove A on the spline part relative to the hole on the support, i.e. the hole on the shaft support and the hole for the pin bolt ( on the lower shaft) should be in the same plane, and the groove A on the spitz part should be perpendicular to the hole on the support. Then, slightly compressing the spring with the shaft, insert the technological part into the hole of the support and the shaft perpendicular to the shaft. Rotate the workpiece 90° to fit along the shaft. In this case, the spring will be compressed and a size of 128 mm will be provided between the end face of the support and the shaft.
When installing the support assembly with the upper and lower shafts (the position of the rack in the steering mechanism must correspond to the rectilinear movement of the vehicle), insert the splined part of the lower shaft into the steering gear shaft so that the spline coupling pinch bolt is located with the head from below. Fasten the support in this position with four bolts to the pedal bracket. Tighten the terminal clamp bolt on the bottom shaft and remove the process piece from the support.
The steering rack transmits rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunction of this node makes the car less obedient.Steering rack components are subject to natural wear and tear and impact loads from driving on rough roads. This leads to the fact that by the mileage of 200-250 thousand km, the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of \u200b\u200bthe steering rack.
Handling has deteriorated, the car “throws”, this is especially acute at high speed.
The free play of the steering wheel (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it by hand.
The power steering pump is noisy, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is rotated.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir drops.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate steering rack wear, so before repairing, you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball joints, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to its original position may be the result of incorrect adjustment of the rack or a violation of the alignment of the wheels. If you have recently adjusted the rail, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment at the service station.
For vehicles with electric power steering, the cause of a “heavy” steering wheel may be a motor failure, an open or shorted circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, a malfunction of the system control unit, or blown fuses.
Fluid leakage from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are connected - oil flows through worn seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections, if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine the wear of parts inside the rail?
With the car turned off, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, it needs repair. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take his hand on the steering rod, so you can more accurately determine where the play is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rack of a 2009 Ford Focus II car. A new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for the Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool that you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Removing the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Place the front of the car on jack stands and remove the wheels.
Press the steering tips out of the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the rail heat shield.
For cars with hydraulic booster, unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the liquid), for cars with electric booster, disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Unscrew the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or motor shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the coupling bolt of the cardan connection of the rack with the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light blows of a hammer).
Pull out the rail through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the subframe can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try unscrewing only the rear bolts and the engine mount, then take the subframe down. Often this is enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rack in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and take it down, this is easier than removing the subframe completely.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will wear out quickly, the rail will leak. Fix the rail in a metal vise, if there are none, place clean cardboard or other material on the disassembly site.
Important: do not clamp the rail in the vise too hard - its body made of brittle aluminum alloy may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the anthers of the steering rods.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves on the threaded coupling for an open-end wrench).
Unscrew the lock nut and the nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the clamping sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the housing or drive shaft nut (you may need a special wrench), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the gear rod of the rack.
Remove the sealing cuffs, bushings and fluoroplastic rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and gear rod in the steering rack
Tip: before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can assemble it correctly later. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as it is loosened to ensure that the clamping sleeve is in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped of oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully inspected. Repair kits usually only come with rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings. This may not be sufficient for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod - it should not be damaged or worn. Pay special attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the rod that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, scratches and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the lath.
Deep corrosion of the rack rod. Such a detail cannot be placed.
On the oblique teeth of the drive shaft gear, there should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rail can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is the wear of the clamping sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scuffing. The clamping sleeve is usually not included in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Pressure sleeve wear - fluoroplastic insert is pressed through
Heavily worn and damaged rail parts cannot be restored in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that scoring does not form on the bushings.
Insert fluoroplastic rings and bushings into the rail body carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great effort. For accurate pressing, you can use the appropriate size socket head and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it on the marks made before disassembly, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut to the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily, without jamming. Tighten the adjustment locknut.
Tighten the steering rods and install the anthers, crimp them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the anther, moisture will get inside the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will leak.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the engine compartment, the other directs the universal joint into the splines of the shaft from the passenger compartment. The universal joint can only be placed in one position - there is a special casting in the spline connection, which must be combined with the groove on the counterpart. Do not immediately tighten the tie bolt - the universal joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft cardan coupling pinch bolt.
Insert the steering pins into the pins and tighten the nuts. Attach power steering tubes and hoses (or wire connectors for a system with EUR). Pour power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the "maximum" mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with hydraulic booster).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level has dropped.
Scroll the steering wheel from lock to lock several times, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump is not noisy, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering pipes for leakage.
Tip: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will make it more difficult to inspect the rail during the test drive.
After pumping, check once again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Steering rack repair can be considered successful if:
The knocks and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, confidently holds the road.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment in a car service or on your own.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It will take a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
Specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, restore problematic elements that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, trust the rail repair to professionals.
The steering rack in the car plays an important role. It is almost the main responsible element in the issue of traffic safety.
The main function of the steering rack of any car is to organize the turn of the car. The rack may be present in those vehicles where there is also a power steering, and in those where it is not. Since it is the main link between the steering wheel and the wheels, the safety of movement in a car, of course, also depends on its condition. Therefore, the diagnosis of the steering rack must be approached most responsibly, as well as its repair.
It is known that almost all components and parts are subject to wear in a vehicle.This is not inferior to such a design as the steering rack. But how to understand that it has begun to fail on your car or has already become a carrier of significant malfunctions?
There are several signs that indicate problems in this area, for example:
1. The appearance of a characteristic knock, which is transmitted even through the steering wheel.
2. The occurrence of difficulties when turning the steering wheel, you have to make great efforts to make a turn.
3. The occurrence of extraneous noise and sounds in the hydraulic booster pump.
4. The appearance of a pronounced backlash, which is especially evident at the moment of rotation.
5. The hydraulic booster began to leak.
The occurrence of one of these signs suggests that your car needs emergency assistance, and specifically, the steering rack needs to be repaired.
Video: How to remove and disassemble the steering rack on a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
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