In detail: do-it-yourself Slavuta steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Probably, every slavutovod-tavrovod faced the moment when a knock on the steering rack appeared in his cars when driving on a cobblestone or uneven surface. Of course, experienced owners of this car brand know that it is the steering rack that “knocks” and at least needs to be tightened. In our car Slavuta, it's also time to tighten the steering rack. We will show this process in this video clip. And so, in order to tighten the steering rack, we need a "pit" or an overpass, but you can also lie under the car, a special key for unscrewing the counter nut, which prevents the adjusting nut from spinning, if there is no special key, then you can use a pry bar and a hammer, which we do in the video. A key for 22 is also needed, with which we will tighten the steering.
Note that for those with motor protection installed, it is necessary to have a large ratchet and two nozzles for 14 (long and short).
Thank you) Help) continue in the same spirit)
The video is very harmful. I write everything as it really is. If there is a knock, change the factory worn bushing to a fluoroplastic bushing - it lasts about 15 years. It is checked by twitching the steering link from the side of the reservoir expansion. If you have beats, then the nut at the bottom does not need to be adjusted, but tightened. It is not regulated. Unscrew the lock nut with a regular bicycle wrench. If the strength of the hands is not enough, you can help leaning against the mount, you can do it as in the video. Tighten the nut as far as it will go !! and then unscrew back 1/8. Hang up both front wheels and turn the steering wheel in both directions. There should be no snacking. If there is, then unscrew it by another 1/8. Then check it out and that's it. So, if it hits the steering, then most likely before you some kind of ram tried to regulate it as in the video and put some kind of gap or some kind of blizzard there, thereby dooming the rail to death - usually after this a pair of worm-rails must be replaced from constant riveting ... I have a native rake of 150 thousand - like new. This is described in the primer in the export glory.
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Video (click to play). |
MrAtlasis: here's a good comment, if not for the insults. First, the bushings of the second-layer, even the factory one, are not enough for more than 30-40 thousand km, so do not tell fairy tales about 15 years and 150 thousand kilometers. Secondly, not everyone always has a bicycle wrench, so the locknut is unscrewed with a pry bar and a hammer. Secondly, if you do not tighten the steering wheel in time, then not only the plastic sleeve will have to be changed, but also the steering rack bearings and possibly the rack itself. Finally, there is not a word about the gap in the video, it just shows how to tighten if there is a beat. I don’t know about you, but I took off my column and changed the bearing and bushing because, most likely, clever people before me, like you, for 80 thousand mileage, did not even bother to tighten it up. Good luck with replacing the secondary bushing for 15 years or 150 thousand kilometers.
About the knock. Recently I found on sale a fluoroplastic sleeve for a rail absolutely identical in appearance to the factory one, but only white in color. DO NOT TAKE. In practice, the sleeve plows grooves on the rail, although it runs longer than the factory one. You need to take a normal sleeve - handicraft, just like a thick-walled tube. Then the rail goes (exactly in this place) 200 thousand. Do not take a bushing similar in appearance to the plant. 200 thousand if your rail is normally lubricated and the nut from below is tightened to the stop and unscrewed by 1/8.
blah you would have a camera and a price you wouldn't have)
For 20 years, I ran over 200 thousand on Tavria, did not touch the rail, but once a year I turned out the valve (key for 10) and instilled a little oil from the oiler. I cut a 6mm thread in ball joints and screwed in oil cans and lubricated with litholl twice a year. The steering wheel spun with 1 finger, as if from an electric power steering.
HELLO, THAT WOULD WHO LEARN THE KULIS TO REGULATE ON VIDEO OR AT LEAST COMMENT, LEAVE LIKE AND WHAT)))
Thank you very much for the tip, I was just looking for how to tighten the rail without removing it, but the phrase at the end of the video - "enjoy the ride" - is overkill. (Max + Slavuta 8 years old)
why such a perversion. It is relatively easy to remove / install.
And then everything is simple.
to loosen the nut. You can use a motorcycle wrench (for the exhaust pipe nut).
.No key just doesn't go there. I tried, and if you find a sickle-shaped key of this size, climb there. easier with a chisel. [/ quote]
tightened the nut with an ordinary open-end wrench.
when setting it up, it is advisable to remove the left wheel - it's easier this way)
simply. but it takes a little time.
withdrawal for 20-25 minutes. setting 40 minutes.
but then he sat down to himself and under normal conditions you can sort it out. instead of writhing with a chisel and hammer under the car.
I studied the situation closely - I wrote above:
took less than a month ago Tavria myself.
the owner was not greedy, and changed and repaired everything and everyone in her.
he immediately said that the rail was being sorted out recently.
there is a small Chinese Zhiguli steering wheel in the car.
so the rail was so clamped that it was a steering wheel and was not going to return itself at the sharpest turn.
Well, this did not suit me.
and the next day I bought the car I decided to adjust the rail.
And now, having a bunch of all kinds of tools, and the same sickle moto keys, I fucking did that right away.
and could not break this counter nut with a chisel.
in short, he spat and took off the rail.
it can actually be removed in 5 minutes, provided that the bolts are not rotten.
no problem.
and only in a vice, holding the rail, I managed to rip off the lock nut.
then loosened the tightening and tightened the counter nut. but the specialist is not so strong.
installed on the car also in 5 minutes, but was ambushed with a steering shaft.
very strongly pushed the shaft out of the rail into it and could not insert the bolt.
tormented breaking his back on the threshold of the car for probably an hour.
in the end, he spat and decided to remove the rail again and reinstall it, but paying attention to the “steering shaft-rod” moment.
so I think that REIKU IS EASIER TO REMOVE. 
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The gearbox of the hydraulic power steering wheel (steering rack) is responsible for organizing the turns of the vehicle. This mechanism is an integral part both for cars with hydraulic power steering and for cars without hydraulics. The steering column serves as a connecting element between the steering wheel and the wheelbase, so its role in the safe operation of the vehicle cannot be overestimated.
The parts of the steering rack wear out quickly enough, because take on the main part of the load that is transferred to the car during cornering, when hitting any type of obstacle, when the wheelbase hits potholes and holes in the roadway. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair may often be required.
To prevent failure of the steering rack, a technical inspection of the vehicle should be periodically carried out, which allows you to identify all faults at an early stage.
The main signs indicating the appearance of deviations in the operation of the gearbox:
- The presence of knocks in the gearbox, transmitted through the steering wheel of the vehicle;
- An increase in the effort that the driver needs to apply to the steering wheel to turn it;
- Extraneous noise arising during the operation of the hydraulic booster pump;
- The presence of a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when turning the steering wheel;
- Traces of oil leaking from the hydraulic power steering.
Steering rack flowing with power steering
Any of the listed symptoms signals a malfunction that must be eliminated immediately. Lack of timely work can adversely affect the operational life of the mechanism, up to its complete failure.
If a problem is found, the car can be handed over to a car service specialist or the steering rack can be repaired with your own hands. It should be noted that self-elimination of defects requires certain knowledge about the device of the vehicle and some tools necessary for disassembling the steering rack.
Details
To fully repair the steering rack, you should have the following spare parts and tools on hand:
a special repair kit consisting of all the parts necessary for the steering rack;
- corrugation;
- gear shaft;
- bearing;
- lubricating mixture.
- octahedron key at 17;
- tools for mounting and dismounting bearings;
- set of wrenches.
For the highest quality repairs, it is advisable to use an overpass or inspection pit.
First of all, the vehicle should be driven onto an overpass or inspection pit, after which, with the help of jacks, the vehicle should be raised and the engine protection (if present) and wheels should be dismantled. Next, you need to remove the heat-insulating plate of the gearbox and unscrew the nuts of the ends of the steering rods, which are knocked out of the ears with a hammer. The next stage consists of disconnecting the pipeline followed by a liquid removal procedure. To do this, you need to start the car engine, and then make several turns with the steering wheel in different directions. The process is completed by removing the fasteners located on the hydraulic power steering gearbox. After dismantling, the mechanism is securely fixed in a vice and cleaned of dust and dirt, which inevitably accumulate on parts during the movement of the car.
Photo instructions for dismantling:
The protection is unscrewed
Two tie rod bolts
The rods are removed
Unscrew the fastening of the clamps
Loosen the tie bolt
- Removing the rubber boot.
- Dismantle the intermediate shaft by removing the lock nut holding the part.
- Removing the lock nut securing the rack shaft clamping cup.
- Dismantling the shaft with bearing. To do this, the main shaft system is knocked out of the pre-fixed intermediate shaft with gentle blows.
- Dismantling the adjusting unit.
- Removing the adjusting glass.
- Removing the pressure piston.
Dismantling the steering rack
After the completion of work on the disassembly of the steering rack, all the constituent elements of the mechanism are thoroughly washed from the oil and dirt deposited on them. Then the parts are subject to a thorough visual inspection for the presence of mechanical damage arising during the operation of the vehicle. Parts with serious defects must be replaced with new ones. In some cases, due to severe damage, it is advisable to completely replace the steering rack. Assemble the steering rack in the reverse order.
There are no significant differences between repairing the steering rack of cars with and without hydraulic power steering. Only bushings and compositions of fluids used to lubricate parts of the mechanism will be different.
After carrying out all the above-described work, it is recommended to carry out the diagnostic procedure for wheel alignment.
The total time it takes to repair the steering rack varies from two to three hours. These repair work refers to work of an average degree of complexity, which, with certain knowledge and skills, it is quite possible to carry out even a novice car enthusiast who has patience and perseverance in achieving a specific task.
Installing the support sleeve
Cut the rubber bands
Remove the retaining ring from the gear shaft
Needle bearing is knocked out
Useful video for repairing the steering rack VAZ 21099:
Steering mechanism:
- Left cover.
- Steering rack.
- Clamp.
- Carter.
- Heel pad.
- Inner bearing.
- Outer bearing.
- Spacer sleeve.
- Lid.
- Sealant.
- Gear shaft.
- Adjusting shim.
- Rail stop.
- Spring.
- Lock-nut.
- Crankcase plug.
- Rail bushing.
- Right cover. B. Size for fitting expansion shims. D - cavity for lubrication
Disassemble the steering gear in the following sequence:
Assemble and adjust the steering gear in reverse order with the following features.
- Pre-lubricate the rack shaft and, after filling the teeth with a grease consisting of 1.5 parts of Fiol-1 grease and one part of engine oil (only 50 g of such grease is needed), insert the rack into the crankcase from the short side.
- Put the covers on the crankcase and secure them securely with clamps.
- Insert the pinion shaft into the crankcase so that it engages the rack, also filling the teeth and bearings with grease.
- After installing the spacer sleeve and fully seating it, measure the protrusion of the sleeve from the crankcase (dimension B in the figure "Steering mechanism"). The thickness of the gaskets is selected for the amount of protrusion. For this purpose, shims with a thickness of 0.1 are provided; 0.15; 0.5 mm.
- After selecting the desired thickness of the gaskets, close the crankcase with a lid and fasten with bolts, tightening them evenly, but not completely. When tightening the bolts, rotate the gear in both directions and check its axial movement. If the turning force of the gear increases when tightening the bolts, add shims between the cover and the crankcase. If there is axial play of the gear, reduce the thickness of the spacers.
- Tighten the cover bolts only after the final adjustment of the gear position. The torque of the gear when correctly adjusted should be 0.02
0.1 N m (0.002. 0.010 kgf m). The axial play of the gear is not allowed.
To disassemble the shaft support, install the support in a vice, turn the technological part perpendicular to the shaft and remove it from the support (if the technological part was installed when the support was removed from the car).
Remove the shaft, spring, bearing stop and bearing from the support. Then, using a screwdriver or a bit, drive the support sleeve out of the shaft support. Remove dust and dirt from parts and inspect their condition. If there is a noticeable play in the bearing, and the support is deformed, damaged or lost elasticity, replace the parts with new ones.
Assemble the shaft support in the reverse order. Insert the support bush with a screwdriver or a bit into the grooves of the support. Then slide the parts onto the shaft in the sequence shown in the figure "Shaft support assembly" (after lubricating the bearing with grease) and aligning the groove A on the spline part relative to the hole on the support, that is, the hole on the shaft support and the hole for the pin bolt ( on the lower shaft) must be in the same plane, and the groove A on the spindle part must be perpendicular to the hole on the support. Then, lightly compressing the spring with the shaft, insert the technological part into the hole in the support and shaft perpendicular to the shaft. Rotate the process piece 90 ° to align with the shaft. In this case, the spring will be compressed and a size of 128 mm will be provided between the end of the support and the shaft.
When installing the support assembly with the upper and lower shafts (the position of the rack in the steering gear must correspond to the rectilinear movement of the car), insert the spline part of the lower shaft into the steering gear shaft so that the spline coupling pinch bolt is located with the head on the bottom. Secure the support in this position with four bolts to the pedal bracket. Tighten the clamp bolt on the lower shaft and remove the process piece from the support.
The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient.Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads. This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of the steering rack.
The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.
Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.
The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir is dropping.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate wear on the steering rack, so before repairing you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.
For vehicles with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be a failure of the electric motor, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.
Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?
On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the backlash is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rail of a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Install the front part of the car on supports, remove the wheels.
Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the heat shield of the rail.
For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).
Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.
Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).
Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the rack rack.
Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack
Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear. Pay particular attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.
Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.
There should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scoring. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through
Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.
Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster locknut.
Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.
Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with a power steering).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.
Tip: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.
After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:
The knocking and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, holds the road confidently.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment at a car service or yourself.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.
The steering rack in the car plays an important role. She is almost the main responsible element in the issue of traffic safety.
The main function of the steering rack of any car is to organize the rotation of the car. The rack may be present in those vehicles where there is both power steering, and in those where it is not. Since it is the main connecting link between the steering wheel and the wheels, then, of course, the safety of movement in a car depends on its condition. Therefore, the diagnosis of the steering rack must be approached most responsibly, as well as its repair.
It is known that practically all assemblies and parts are subject to wear in a vehicle.In this, a design such as a steering rack is not inferior. But how to understand that it has begun to fail on your car or has already become a carrier of significant malfunctions?
There are several signs that indicate a problem in this area, for example:
1. The appearance of a characteristic knock, which is transmitted even through the steering wheel.
2. Difficulty turning the steering wheel, you have to make great efforts to make a turn.
3. The emergence of extraneous noise and sounds in the power steering pump.
4. The appearance of a pronounced backlash, which is especially evident at the moment of turning.
5. The power steering began to leak.
The occurrence of one of these signs indicates that your car needs emergency assistance, specifically, the steering rack needs to be repaired.
Video: How to remove and disassemble a steering rack on a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
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