Do-it-yourself steering rack repair chord 7

A priority place in traffic safety is given to steering. The transmission link of the steering force to the wheels is the steering rack. Her work is absolutely not noticeable when it is working. This continues until it fails. Every driver will feel it immediately. With the onset of such a moment, it is required to immediately take measures to find and eliminate the malfunction. Delay in this matter is fraught with very big troubles. Not only ride comfort, but also traffic safety depends on the state of the steering.

Honda rail malfunctions are typical of malfunctions of this unit of other cars, which means that their symptoms are identical. So it really is.

Breakdowns that occurred in

rail, are characterized by the appearance of:

• fluid leaks in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rail;
• play in the steering;
• knocks under the hood;
• problems with the steering wheel (it becomes “heavy”, it can jam);
• loss of smoothness when turning (turning is jerky).

The occurrence of such deviations from the norm in the steering cannot be overlooked. At the same time, there is no way to correctly determine the cause of these symptoms. The fact is that steering is a complex mechanism. A malfunction may occur in any of its nodes. In this case, its symptoms will coincide with the symptoms of a malfunction in the steering rack.

Timely and quality

diagnostics of the mechanism will save the owner from many possible troubles. The main ones will be the safety of the car and budgetary repairs (such as creating an emergency situation or complicity in an accident will not be considered, although they cannot be ruled out).

Speaking of diagnostics, it should be noted that it can only be carried out at a specialized service station.

The problem of checking is that there is no way to examine the rail without special equipment. Only on the diagnostic stand it is possible to determine the true cause of the malfunction. Examination "by eye" or "by ear" can end tragically.

Service steering rack

checked in several steps:

• examination by a master diagnostician;
• removal from the car and check on the diagnostic stand;
• complete disassembly and troubleshooting of each part;
• check on the diagnostic stand of the repaired rack.

After installation on the car, the entire steering mechanism is checked again. And only after that the serviceable car is transferred to the owner.

As you can see, the diagnostic process is simple in essence, but complex in execution. In other words, it is out of the question to check the steering rack independently or outside the service station.

A self-repaired steering rack will require replacement immediately. In garage conditions, such repairs are simply not possible. The repair algorithm is simple - we find the faulty part, replace it with a new one and assemble the rail. Ready. Yes, for the uninitiated in the subtleties of repair, everything is simple. Without delving into the details of replacing parts, it is enough to say that after assembly, the rail is subject to mandatory diagnostics. It can be performed only on a special diagnostic stand. Thus, repair without this operation turns into a simple set and connection of new parts.

The consequences of such a recovery can be the most severe. Traffic safety is at risk. Having saved a little on repairs, it is possible to lose the car. This is at best. At worst, health and even life itself.

In a car service, the repair picture looks completely different.Qualified specialists will assist in the selection of replacement units or parts. The rail will be carefully diagnosed and defective. Not a single detail will be left without attention. In addition, you do not have to run around in search of spare parts. Everything you need for repairs can be purchased here, in the service station.

The complexity of the restoration is evidenced by the fact that it sometimes takes more than a day to repair the steering rack. And this is for specialists who have at hand all the necessary tools, devices, various stands for setting operating parameters and diagnostics. All these components allow you to make a high-quality repair of a faulty mechanism.

The steering rack is a high-precision and at the same time durable mechanism. Its service life is about 200,000 km of car run. It is maintained in the case when the rail is "under supervision", that is, it is serviced in a timely manner. It is enough to leave it unattended, as it will immediately declare its existence.

There are four main malfunctions that occur due to the fault of operation in the steering rack:

1. Fluid leakage from slats. Occurs as a result of a violation of the tightness of the sealing gland. The complexity of the repair lies in the complete disassembly of the entire mechanism. Violation of the integrity of the protective covers (anthers) will necessarily cause the destruction of the seals.
2. The occurrence of play in the steering. It happens for various reasons. The main one is the natural development of the mated parts of the steering mechanism. Adjustment is carried out by car service specialists.
3. The occurrence of knocks. In most cases, they are caused by careless driving over bumps. As a result of such negligence, the bushings break. It is necessary to change them. The repair is very complicated, checking on a special diagnostic stand after assembly is required.
4. "Heavy" steering wheel, the appearance of jerks when turning. Possible with mechanical damage to the crankcase or rack shaft. Such damage can occur when careless repair of nearby mechanisms or assemblies. Diagnostics is required.

Our car service repairs Honda Accord 7 steering racks. And with high quality. This is confirmed by numerous positive reviews from our customers. Another confirmation is the guarantee for the repairs carried out by us, issued for a period of 6 months.

The service is equipped with modern equipment, stands, fixtures and tools. Repairs can only be carried out by specially trained technicians. Their many years of experience and qualifications are undeniable.

Promotions and discounts significantly reduce our low prices.

We drive the car onto a flyover (pit), hang out the front wheels.

We pump out the liquid from the tank.

Just pull the protection towards you, it is held on by clips.

Unscrew the steering column cardan.

We pull the cardan from the slots to the top. IMPORTANT: When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel. Since you can break the cable under the steering wheel.

We unscrew the three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

It is problematic to remove this anther … the insulation and the rug interfere, the anther is under them … Okay, remove it, put it in its place, this is a hemorrhoid. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy.

It is better to remove the latch and the elastic band ... the elastic band is shifted to the bottom relative to the shaft.

Unscrew the steering knuckles. I didn’t have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We strike everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila ... the tip has moved away. unscrew the nut and everything. If the finger scrolls, then press the tip from the top with the mount and unscrew it to your health!

We unscrew the fastening of the rail itself. We twist the lower one from the bottom, and the one that is higher is more convenient to turn from the top

We unscrew the three bolts of the heat shield from the bottom.

They are tight from the heart! You will need this key.

We first unscrew the blue bolt of the bracket, holds the tube, then the rest.

For convenience, you will need such a set with a cardan.

To remove the rail, you need to lower the beam. It is possible to replace the stabilizer bushings in one, I did just that and so we lower the beam.

We lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, we leave the right bolt, the beam will be held on it, and the left one is completely unscrewed and the spacer is removed (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

We remove the rail on the left side.

My carefully benzinchikom and carry it to a warm garage.

We unscrew the tips, you will need two keys for 19 and one for 14.

We remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here we need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is no wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit).

unscrew the adjusting sleeve key 40 and a knob with a middle square.

Development of Teflon coating to metal.

We unscrew the two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

We knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me).

The ring is in the kit.

Next, unscrew the guide nut, it is zakernina. I didn’t drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, don’t be afraid to drill)

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the case strongly in a vise, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out. Plug nut for 46.

Next, you need to knock out the gland that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil of those that remain behind the outlet fitting. I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the housing as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that there was a gap between the shaft and the stuffing box, the main goal was to release air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

The second seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

You need to knock out carefully with something softer than steel without damaging the inner working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

We see that there is a washer under the stuffing box.

We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive in a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal).

A new washer can be taken from the repair kit.

I pressed the new oil seal with a 27 head and two extensions.

Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, it looks like it is made of plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring must be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can tear it, for example, I heated it a little over carrying lamp.)

Here's what happened in the end.

We install the shaft into the housing, before installation, put a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to cut off the oil seal. IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the teeth of the shaft can also ruin the oil seal!

We crush the second gland with a new nut.

We lubricate the whole thing, I used violet grease, of course, you can also use lithol, in general, whoever wants it!

Now we change the stuffing box and spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don’t remember exactly which one, and pressed the oil seal at the beginning, then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. Lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

We put it all on the rail (do not forget to change the ring, it is in the repair kit).

We put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything).

How I regulated: I twisted it until it rested, then unscrewed it one turn and again turned it until it rested and released it by about 20 degrees (all this is necessary for the spring to fall into place) If, according to your mind, you need a torque wrench and do all this with certain efforts ... I did not find the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you swing the steering wheel) on the turned off engine is a thing of the past!)))

We fasten the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo).

Screwed steering rods, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings.

We put new retaining rings (with a mustache in the shaft), they are in the repair kit.

We put on anthers. We fasten the steering tips (bend in front).

Everything ... now we put it on the car. I think it's not worth describing the order!

I put myself polyurethane bushings of a smaller diameter instead of 26.5 mm, I put 25.4 mm, since the stabilizer itself turned out to be worn.

The main symptoms that indicate the need to repair the steering rack, primarily a knock on the left or right side, or simultaneously on both sides (in some cases, a beating in the steering wheel may be felt). This photo report describes in detail how to make steering rack repair on a Honda Accord CL. The repair procedure is quite complicated, it can take about a day.

Required tools:

• Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
• Collar with a middle square;
• torque wrench;
• Preferably an electric drill and a 4 or 5 mm drill;
• Pipe wrench (17-19);
• Large syringe with a tube;

The original Honda Accord 7 steering rack repair kit has a catalog number 06531SEAE03 and a price tag of about 3,500 rubles. The silent block of the Accord 7 steering rack with the article 53685-SDA-A01 costs about 500 rubles.

As of prices for the hot summer of 2017 for Moscow and the region.

Hello to all happy owners of Chords!
I would like to add some more information on the repair of our painful rails!)))) A lot of things were discussed about this, I also decided to share my experience.
The problem actually was like many - it's an annoying knock, first on the right and then on the left side. I endured all this until the right gland began to sweat. Winter is coming and I decided to fix this problem! I ordered a repair kit online, a bushing (lock nut), an adjusting bushing, an upper spool seal (it comes with a bearing), a right boot, a week of waiting and everything came. And another liter of fresh PSF.

From an unusual tool, you will need large keys (32, 40, 46), a wrench with an average square, a denometric key (it is possible without it), preferably an electric drill and a drill (4 or 5 mm), a tube wrench (17-19), a large syringe with a tube (remove the liquid from the tank).

Now the whole process is in order:

1. We drive the car onto a flyover (pit), hang out the front wheels.

2. pump out the liquid from the tank

3. Disassemble the top (in the cabin)

just pull the protection towards you, it is held on by clips.

4. unscrew the cardan of the steering column.

5. We pull the cardan from the slots to the top.
IMPORTANT: When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel.
Since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

6. Unscrew the three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

removing this duster is problematic. interferes with insulation and rug, anther is under them. Okay, take it off, put it in its place, this is a hemorrhoid. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy. )))

remove the retainer and rubber band. the gum is shifted to the bottom relative to the shaft.

7. Unscrew the steering tips. I didn’t have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila. the tip came off. unscrew the nut and everything. If the finger scrolls, then press the tip from the top with the mount and unscrew it to your health!) Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo ((

8. unscrew the mount of the rail itself.
We twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

9. unscrew the three bolts of the heat shield from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart!) You will need such a key.

11. first unscrew the blue bolt of the bracket, holding the tube, then the rest.

for convenience, you will need such a set with a cardan.

12. to remove the rail, you need to lower the beam. you can replace the stabilizer bushings in one, I did just that.
so we lower the beam:

we lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, we leave the right bolt, the beam will be held on it, and the left one is completely unscrewed and the spacer is removed (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

thirteen.remove the rail on the left side

my carefully benzinchikom and carry it to a warm garage))

14. unscrew the tips, you will need two keys for 19 and one for 14

remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is no wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit)

15. unscrew the adjusting sleeve key 40 and a knob with a middle square.

production of teflon coating to metal

16. unscrew the two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

17. knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me)

the ring is in the repair kit.

18. then unscrew the guide nut, it is locked. I didn’t drill much and it unscrewed without problems. (The nut is thick, don’t be afraid to drill))

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the case strongly in a vise, it can be deformed and that's it. the rail can be thrown out. Nut under
key for 46

19. Next, you need to knock out the gland that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil of those left behind the outlet fitting.
I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the housing as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that there was a gap between the shaft and the stuffing box, the main goal was to release air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

the second seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

you need to knock it out carefully with something softer than steel without damaging the inner working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

we see that there is a washer under the gland

21. We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive in a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal)

a new washer can be taken from rep. kit

I pressed the new oil seal with a 27 head and two extensions

22. Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, it looks like it is made of plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring must be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can tear it, for example, I have a little heated over the lamp-carrying.)

here's what happened in the end

23. We install the shaft into the housing, before installation, put a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to seal the gland.
IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the teeth of the shaft can also damage the oil seal!

24. We crush the second stuffing box with a new nut.

25. We lubricate the whole thing, I used violet grease, of course, you can use lithol, in general, whoever wants it!))

26. Now we change the stuffing box and spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don’t remember exactly which one, and pressed the oil seal at the beginning, then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. Lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

put it all on the rail (do not forget to change the ring, it is in the repair kit)

27. put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything)

How I adjusted:
I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it one turn and turned it again until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is necessary for the spring to fall into place) If you need a denmetric wrench and do it all with some effort. I didn't have a key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you move the steering wheel) on the turned off engine is a thing of the past!)))

28. Screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo)

29. screwed steering rods, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings

we put new retaining rings (with a mustache in the shaft), they are in the repair kit

31. fasten the steering tips (bending in front)

Everything. now put on auto. I think it's not worth describing the order!)))

here are some pics of the bushings i replaced. I put myself polyurethane bushings of a smaller diameter instead of 26.5 mm, I put 25.4 mm, since the stabilizer itself turned out to be worn.

Good luck to everyone in the repair of your favorite car))).

The main symptoms that indicate the need to repair the steering rack, primarily a knock on the left or right side, or simultaneously on both sides (in some cases, a beating in the steering wheel may be felt). This photo report describes in detail how to make steering rack repair on a Honda Accord CL. The repair procedure is quite complicated, it can take about a day.

Required tools:

• Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
• Collar with a middle square;
• torque wrench;
• Preferably an electric drill and a 4 or 5 mm drill;
• Pipe wrench (17-19);
• Large syringe with a tube;

When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel. Since you can break the train under the steering wheel. Also, do not clamp the rail body strongly in a vise, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out!

To date, a car has turned from a simple vehicle that is designed to carry passengers or simply move around the city into a comfortable and high-speed means of transportation.
But at high speeds, you need to be as confident as possible in the safety of your car.

The steering is designed to provide the driver with comfort and ease of movement.
Therefore, Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair is a priority for proper driving.

Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair should be done immediately, as soon as the driver notices a malfunction.
If you hear a characteristic tapping sound while driving, then you may need a Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair.
For this, it is better to contact a specialist.

It is worth noting that such a part of the car as steering racks are highly durable and reliable.
But still, in the event of a malfunction, it can cost you quite a lot.
Do not postpone the repair of Honda Accord steering racks and contact a specialized car service if there is a crunching of the steering assembly and leakage in its area.

It is important to remember that timely Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair will help you avoid many dangerous situations on the road, which can end very badly.

The following factors can lead to a malfunction of the steering racks of a car:
* Aggressive and abrupt use of the steering wheel while driving;
* Low quality hydraulics and fluid;
* Poor quality road surface;

Emergencies on the roads that require a sharp response.
Repair of Honda Accord Steering Racks is carried out by our specialists competently and promptly.

For timely detection of problems, it is necessary to regularly diagnose the operation of the car, especially its components. This will allow you to prevent unexpected breakdowns and timely replace worn-out components.
These "preventive" measures will allow you to avoid more global problems, such as replacing the steering assembly.
A properly functioning steering rack is a symbol of reliability and driving safety.
Not without reason, with regular maintenance, close attention is paid to it.

Repair of Honda Accord Steering Racks must be carried out on special equipment by a master with special skills.

If the steering rack fails, it will be necessary to replace it with a new one.
In a similar way, you need to do when its repair is difficult or very expensive.

When repairing a steering rack in a car service, it is completely disassembled and a comprehensive assessment of its condition is made, possible defects and malfunctions are detected.
All parts must be thoroughly cleaned of contamination and corrosion, and seals, bearings and washers must be replaced.
After these procedures, the rail is assembled and installed, the alignment is cambered and the car can be used.
The whole procedure will not take long.

After we have removed the steering rack from the car, we conduct an external inspection of the unit

Next, we unscrew the steering rods along with the anthers of the steering rack and its tips, since without doing this procedure it is not possible to repair the steering rack on the Honda Accord 7

After carrying out the above procedure, we see surface corrosion of the steering rack stem, which can be removed by grinding it.

Then the Honda Accord 7 steering rack is completely disassembled into all its components, including the steering rack repair kit.

Further, all parts of the steering rack are thoroughly washed with a special solution, the steering rack rod is polished to give it a mirror surface.

We select a new steering rack repair kit Honda Accord 7

Since after grinding the steering rack shaft, its size decreased, and the guide bushing remained the same size, if you do not replace it, then the car owner will have a knock on the Honda Accord steering rack

After replacing the old bushing with a repair one, we install it on the rail.

The final stage of honda accord 7 steering rack repair is its adjustment.

One of the most important points in the repair of the Honda Accord 7 steering rack is the replacement of rods, anthers and steering rack tips. Particular attention should be paid to the anthers of the steering rack, as they protect the rack from environmental influences and ensure the durability of the unit. The specialists of our technical center will perform this work absolutely free of charge (thrusts, anthers, tips are not included in the cost of repairing the rail and are purchased separately).

POWER STEERING
Steering Rack Repair
Moscow, Ostapovsky passage, 7
TRANSITION TO THE OLD SITE

Special tool
Ball joint puller 28mm ( 07MAS-SL00200)

Pay attention to the following when assembling.

• Use solvent and a brush to remove grease and dirt from the final part of the reducer, avoiding solvent contact with electrical components. Blow and dry the washed areas with compressed air.
• Be sure to remove the steering wheel before disassembling the hinge. Otherwise, you may damage the circular current collector.

Make sure you have the security code for your audio system, then make a note of the stations that the receiver has been preset by the owner. Remove the battery.

Steering — one of the most important parts of the car. Its main purpose is to tie the front wheels and steering wheels together, to set the direction of movement for the car. It is thanks to her that the direction of movement of the car on the road is determined.

True, like any other part of the car, it is subject to wear and tear. They affect traffic safety, driving, wear and tear of other parts of the car. Tires wear out especially badly in such a situation. Therefore, it is important to monitor the serviceability of this part and troubleshoot in time.

By car "Honda» This part has a high level of reliability. As a rule, up to a run of 18 thousand km, there are no difficulties with its operation. She does not have typical breakdowns that are not typical for other car brands. Basic breakdowns happen for the same reasons as other cars.

In most cases, cars are hydraulic racks, but some Honda vehicles are equipped with electric steering parts. They wear out faster, in them the bushing of the right end of the shaft most often fails. In this case make repairs yourself steering rack honda civic impossiblebecause it requires a special tool and a lot of experience with parts.

The main signs that indicate the need for repair are knocking noise coming from front suspensionwhen the steering wheel is turned to the side. As a rule, this indicates the need to replace the broken bushings of the worm pair. The leakage of the working fluid requires the replacement of damaged seals and the cleaning of parts from corrosion.

Another problem that indicates the need to repair the Honda Fit steering rack is steering play. It usually occurs due to the development of the distributor rod or the teeth of the worm pair. Replacement of these parts is also required when biting the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is tight, most likely the problem is corrosion of the assembly. It can be eliminated only by its complete analysis and cleaning of every detail.

It must be understood that the repair of the Honda Accord 8 steering rack is an expensive pleasure. In addition, it takes a lot of time.

The difficulty also lies in the fact that it is difficult to find a complete assembly kit for some car models. Then you have to select parts from different cars, but in this case, the guarantee of the unit will not be high. Sometimes it will be more justified to completely replace the rail with a new original one.

Now let's take a closer look at typical breakdowns and how to fix them.

In this case, you can try repairing the steering rack "Honda Accord 7" preventby adjusting the degree of tightening of the nut. But if the crankcase or steering rack shaft have mechanical damage or deformation, you will still have to carry out repair work. Their cost, as already mentioned, will be quite high.

This is one of the main causes of node breakdowns. This type of failure usually does not require major renovation. If you give the car to a car service to a good specialist, he can simply adjust the backlash, spending relatively little time on it.

If there is a leak in this part of the car, this indicates oil seal wear. Its damage leads to a violation of the tightness of the system. Through the resulting gaps, a process fluid flows out, which requires an urgent and mandatory replacement of the stuffing box. This is a complex and jewelry process that requires removing the bolts (almost always they are covered with corrosion), the cross beam, and in especially difficult cases it is necessary to hang the engine.

Knocking, as a rule, appears due to overcoming various obstacles at high speeds. He talks about wear and sometimes destruction of the bushings. In this case, they need replace. To do this, the assembly will have to be dismantled, the damaged parts replaced, installed back, and then adjusted for its operation. In this case, the repair of the Honda SRV 3 steering rack requires a special tool, so it is almost impossible to carry it out on your own without certain skills.

Any repair is a whole list of works aimed at restoring the operation of the mechanism in the mode provided by the manufacturer. In the process, it is necessary to identify and eliminate faults, replace parts, and adjust their operation.

Before making repairs, prepare the car to work. To do this, dismantle all nodes that block access to the node: air filter, resonator, battery. Its removal is also carried out according to a special procedure. When it is removed, it is disassembled and all parts are cleaned.

In order to carry out a correct and adequate repair of a part, it is necessary to carry out a clear diagnosis of it, as well as the components associated with it. Therefore, repair of the steering rack in St. Petersburg must be carried out at service stations only by qualified specialists.

To repair the assembly, you will need a repair kit, which will cost about 50 USD, then anthers for it (about 30 USD each), a steering column bushing, which costs about 15 USD, a liter of power steering fluid.

From tools you will need a serviceable power steering (if the old one is broken), adjustable wrenches, heads and a reliable vice. For complex repairs that require hanging the engine, special equipment is required.

Depending on the type of breakdown, the repair of the unit is carried out in different ways.

In case of minor malfunctions or preventive maintenance, the system is flushed and cleaned. It takes a little time and does not require much money.

This type of repair requires the removal of the assembly. Then held such works, how:

• removal and disassembly of the assembly;
• flushing and cleaning the assembly and its parts;
• replacement of parts that cannot be restored;
• check and cleaning of the gear shaft;
• replacement of components (rings, seals, anthers, etc.);

Depending on the damage and wear of the parts, repairs can take from a couple of hours to a couple of days. At the end of the repair, several stages of its adjustment and testing for performance are carried out.

Since such repairs take a lot of time, not everyone is willing to wait a few days until it is completed. In this case, the spent node is replaced with an already assembled new one of the same configuration. This is also a long and laborious process.

1. First you need to remove the battery terminal, unscrew the pain by 10 near the pedals and disconnect the steering shaft.
2. Then raise the car, disconnect the wheels, unscrew the steering tips of the caliper. Sometimes at the same time they remove the anther without removing the tip.
3. Then you need to remove the chips from the assembly and unscrew the bolts that hold the subframe.

The assembly of the assembly is carried out strictly in the reverse order. When the repaired or new rail is installed in place, it is necessary to repeatedly test the operation of the assembly, which will determine the accuracy of the work performed, indicate how ready the machine is for further operation.

The quality of work is indicated by the absence of noise and difficulties when turning the steering wheel, a stable level of power steering fluid, and the absence of its foaming. Preventive work in the area of ​​the node should be carried out every six months.

As you can see, repairing a Honda steering rack is a difficult job that requires a lot of experience, knowledge, qualifications and special conditions, even for simply replacing a broken assembly with a new one. To do this in an ordinary garage is practically unreal.

The cost of a new node is high, and work to repair or replace it takes a long time. So much wiser on time contact a car service specialist for the diagnosis and prevention of all its details.

Honda Accord 7th generation. Overview of weaknesses.

The seventh generation Honda Accord is one of the most popular Japanese sedans in Russia. Indeed, the car is comfortable, pleasant to drive, quite unpretentious and economical for its class. Today we will tell you about the weak points Honda Accord 7 generations in terms of people fixing those cars. Many “problems”, such as fogging headlights, or clouding of the paintwork, we will deliberately omit - they are not so serious as to focus on them, and we will consider them “unfortunate misunderstandings”. Our note will be devoted to the critical elements of the car, the repair of which can lead to downtime of the car, or can be long and expensive.

So, if you decide to purchase a VII generation Accord, first of all, start the car, look under the hood, and listen for extraneous sounds. The weakest points of the Accord are located under the hood and they are “caught” by ear, and some “by eye”.

Exhaust camshaft (a problem specific to K20A engines or low-powered K24 engines)

The first thing you must decide for yourself is whether or not you hear the sound of “rattling” valves. For those who do not really understand what “clacking” valves are, we can try to explain it this way - the upper part of the engine, the place where HONDA is written, or in other words, where the candle coils are located, should not emit any clicking or rattling sounds louder than a human voice when talking. That is, if you open the hood, and with the engine running, you are forced to raise your voice so that the interlocutor can hear you, there is sound.

If there is sound, you need to open the valve cover and look at the condition of the exhaust camshaft (the one that is closer to the passenger compartment). This operation (costing about $ 15) should be done in a car service, preferably a specialized one, since a new valve cover gasket may be required to assemble everything back.A visual inspection is usually enough to understand whether a simple adjustment of the thermal valve clearance is required ($ 60-70), or whether the exhaust camshaft needs to be changed ($ 500-600 with work).
If there is no sound, it's already good. So the car was followed. It is impossible to “remove” or somehow mask the existing sound of a worn camshaft. Therefore, if there really is no sound, we go to another place in the engine compartment - automatic transmission (if the car, of course, is equipped with it)

Automatic transmission cover bearings (only for vehicles with automatic transmission)

Wear on the bearings on the side cover of the automatic transmission is a problem that Honda says is common with pre-styling Accords, regardless of the steering wheel position. It is very easy to identify it by ear - ask someone to switch the modes of the automatic transmission selector, and listen for the sound from the arch of the left (in the direction of travel) wheel. If you hear a characteristic howling sound when switching modes, most likely the bearings need to be replaced. It's not as expensive as it might seem. The spare part itself (cover assembly) costs about $150-170, and its replacement costs about $100. Attention! The part should be selected only by the full body number! However, this is a good bargain if you are buying a car.

Knocking and leaking steering rack.

Accord steering rack problems can be divided into two categories, depending on the location of the car's steering wheel.

The “Left-Handed” Accord with a hydraulic rail installed on board has the following weaknesses:

1. Steering rack leak (almost a constant problem).

We recommend that you inspect this assembly very carefully, since in most cases, the owners are simply too lazy to monitor the amount of fluid in the rail, which, in the event of a leak, leads to severe wear of the rail shaft (rod), and this is fraught with replacement of the assembly assembly.

The most annoying thing is that in the case of a rail knock (which is in no way connected with a leak, usually), we have the same end point - ignoring the obvious rack knock, or having serviced it with bad locksmiths, the Accord “reaches” to replace the entire assembly, from -for a broken shaft.

Another way to “kill” the rail is to top up the fluid in the tank in a timely manner, though not the Honda PSF, but Dexron (or liquid based on it), which leads to accelerated wear of the seals, and as a result, failure of the rail. It is very simple to check what exactly the owner poured into the rail - open the tank, dip your finger into the liquid (it is not hot), and look at the drop. If the drop is the color of vegetable oil, everything is in order. If it is red, there is a reason for bargaining. There should be no red liquid in the Honda power steering!

How to track the condition of the rail for leaks if you are going to buy a car? Simple enough - look under the hood, look at the anthers of the steering rods, and at the place where the steering column enters the rail. If they are dirty, most likely the rail is running. Contact a Honda dealer for a diagnosis and inspection of the assembly. Under normal conditions, this procedure costs up to $70, but it shows well whether it makes sense to repair this rail (the cost of repairs together with repair kits can reach $350), or you need to look for a contract unit.

It’s even easier to catch the “knock” of the rack - quickly shake the steering wheel left and right while the car is on the ground. Hear blows to the steering wheel - go to the service for the above procedure. The clamping cracker or the steering rack output sleeve can knock, the replacement of which, in itself, is inexpensive work, but it is necessary to look at the general condition of the rack (shaft) so as not to do it in vain. Sometimes the rail "knocks out" until the need for a complete replacement.

Right hand drive.

The intra-Japanese Accord differs from its European counterpart in the absence of power steering. Instead, the Japanese preferred to install an electric power steering, which automatically removed the problem of all kinds of leaks and topping up. At the same time, the Japanese simply could not leave a big “hello” to those who will use the cars after them, making the electric rack non-separable.

It would seem - and okay, it's okay, but there is nothing to break in it. Nearly. This magic word “almost” spoils the whole picture, because every owner of a right-handed chord is familiar with the problem of knocking the output bushing of the steering rack, which on the “left-handed hydraulic colleague” quietly changes separately from everything, and at the right steering wheel, is a non-separable structural element. That is, if the bushing in the steering rack is broken, judging by the logic of the Japanese, it is necessary to change the steering rack (the difference in price is almost 30 times). We hasten to please, — the detail from the left steering wheel, the right one will not work.

Nevertheless, this is not a reason for panic - in Russia there are already many different technologies for restoring steering rack bushings, the most interesting and promising of which, in our opinion, is the technology that uses original Japanese kits and spare parts. The cost of such a repair is about $ 100-150, however, during the repair, it is necessary to defect the condition of the rail shaft (rod). If it is worn out, the repair will be useless, and the new bushing will fail in a very short time.

Power steering high pressure hose (left-hand drive vehicles only)

Another weak point of the Accord steering system is the wear of the power steering high pressure hose. On the one hand, it may seem that this is a trifle - well, just think, a hose, it cannot be expensive. But you didn't guess! Although it is a hose, it costs from $400 to $500, and even under the order for a long time.

It is also almost impossible to find it at dismantling sites - it is mainly cut so that it does not interfere with the transportation of the power steering pump.

It is not difficult to determine the condition of the power steering high-pressure hose - it is either intact or leaky, and in the second case, it is unlikely to be put up for sale until the problem is fixed. But it can be eliminated, in principle, quite simply. If finances allow you to order an original hose, it is better, of course, to take it. But if you need to do everything urgently and inexpensively, contact a company that repairs and manufactures high-pressure hoses for special equipment. There are such firms in every city, and the cost of repairing a hose is unlikely to be more than $80, and its removal and installation is $50. In the vast majority of cases, replacing the original hose with a manufactured one takes place without any consequences. In some cases, unfortunately, there is a problem of “howling” of the power steering pump, apparently, not all hoses can be replaced with the sleeves needed for the inner diameter. If the hose is selected incorrectly, the power steering pump may experience oil starvation. But this happens extremely rarely, therefore, in our opinion, it is worth trying, especially since the price of a manufactured hose can be up to 10 times lower than the original hose.

That's actually all the main problems of the Accord VII generation. There are still many minor bugs that users complain about - for example, that the rear breakaway bolts rust, that the 45-amp battery does not start the car well in winter, and so on, but we are not inclined to attribute them to car problems. The key weaknesses of the Accord in the CL body, which can lead to expensive repairs, are listed above. Everything else is not a problem, these are ways to care for this very reliable (as practice shows) car.