DIY steering rack repair chord 7

Steering is the priority in driving safety. The steering rack is the transmitting link of the steering effort to the wheels. Its work is absolutely imperceptible when it is in good working order. This continues until there is a problem with it. Every driver will feel it immediately. With the onset of such a moment, it is required to immediately take measures to find and eliminate the malfunction. Delay in this matter is fraught with very big trouble. Not only ride comfort, but also traffic safety depends on the state of the steering.

Malfunctions of the Honda rail are characteristic of malfunctions of this unit of other cars, which means that their symptoms are identical. So it really is.

Failures that occurred in

reike are characterized by the appearance of:

• liquid leaks in the area of ​​the rail;
• backlash in steering;
• knocking under the hood;
• problems with the steering wheel (becomes "heavy", can jam);
• loss of smoothness when turning (turning is carried out in jerks).

The occurrence of such deviations from the norm in the steering system cannot be overlooked. At the same time, there is no way to correctly determine the cause of the appearance of these signs. The point is that steering is a complex mechanism. A malfunction can occur in any of its nodes. In this case, its signs will coincide with the signs of a malfunction in the steering rack.

Timely and high quality

diagnostics of the mechanism will save the owner from many possible troubles. The main ones will be the safety of the car and budget repairs (such as creating an emergency or complicity in an accident, we will not consider, although they cannot be ruled out).

Speaking of diagnostics, it should be noted that it can be carried out only at a specialized service station.

The problem with checking is that there is no way to inspect the rail without special equipment. Only on the diagnostic bench can you determine the true cause of the malfunction. Examination "by eye" or "by ear" can end tragically.

In service, steering rack

checked in several stages:

• examination by a master diagnostician;
• removal from the car and check at the diagnostic stand;
• complete disassembly and troubleshooting of every detail;
• check on the diagnostic stand of the repaired rail.

After installation on the vehicle, the entire steering gear is checked again. And only after that the serviceable car is transferred to the owner.

As you can see, the diagnostic process is simple in essence, but complex in execution. In other words, there can be no question of checking the steering rack independently or outside the workshop.

A do-it-yourself steering rack will require replacement immediately. It is simply not possible to carry out such repairs in a garage. The repair algorithm is simple - we find the faulty part, replace it with a new one and assemble the rail. Ready. Yes, for the uninitiated, everything is simple in the intricacies of repair. Without delving into the details of replacing parts, it is enough to say that after assembly, the rail is subject to mandatory diagnostics. It can be performed only on a special diagnostic stand. Thus, the repair without this operation turns into a simple set and connection of new parts.

The consequences of this recovery can be dire. Traffic safety is jeopardized. Having saved a little on repairs, it is possible to lose your car. This is the best case scenario. At worst, health and even life itself.

In a car service, the picture of repair looks completely different.Qualified specialists will assist in the selection of replaceable assemblies or parts. The rail will be thoroughly diagnosed and defective. Not a single detail will be left without attention. In addition, you don't have to run around looking for spare parts yourself. Everything you need for repairs can be purchased here at the service station.

The complexity of restoration is evidenced by the fact that it sometimes takes more than a day to repair the steering rack. And this is for specialists who have at hand all the necessary tools, devices, various stands for setting operating parameters and diagnostics. All these components allow for high-quality repair of a faulty mechanism.

The steering rack is a high-precision yet durable mechanism. Its service life is about 200,000 km of vehicle mileage. It is maintained when the rail is "under supervision", that is, it is serviced in a timely manner. It is enough to leave it unattended, as it will immediately declare its existence.

There are four main malfunctions arising from the operation of the steering rack:

1. Fluid leaking from reiki. Occurs as a result of a leakage of the sealing gland. The complexity of the repair lies in the complete disassembly of the entire mechanism. Violation of the integrity of the protective covers (anthers), the destruction of the oil seals will necessarily cause.
2. Backlash in steering. It happens for various reasons. The main one is the natural development of the mating parts of the steering mechanism. The adjustment is carried out by car service specialists.
3. The occurrence of knocks. In most cases, they are caused by sloppy driving over bumps. As a result of this negligence, the bushings are broken. They need to be changed. The repair is very difficult, checking on a special diagnostic stand after assembly is required.
4. "Heavy" steering wheel, the appearance of jerks when turning. Possible in case of mechanical damage to the crankcase or rack shaft. Such damage can appear when not careful repair of nearby mechanisms or units. Diagnostics is required.

Our car service repairs steering racks Honda Accord 7. And qualitatively. This is confirmed by numerous positive reviews from our customers. Another confirmation is the warranty for the repairs carried out by us, issued for a period of 6 months.

The service is equipped with modern equipment, stands, fixtures and tools. Masters who have undergone special training are allowed to carry out repairs. Their many years of experience and qualifications are beyond question.

The ongoing promotions and the availability of discounts significantly reduce our low prices.

We drive the car onto an overpass (pit), hang up the front wheels.

We pump out the liquid from the tank.

Just pull the guard towards you, it is held in place by the clips.

We unscrew the steering column cardan.

We pull the cardan from the slots to the top. IMPORTANT: When the gimbal is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one is turning the steering wheel, since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

We unscrew three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

Removing this boot is problematic ... noise insulation and a rug interfere with the boot, the boot is under them ... Okay, remove it, put it in its place, this is hemorrhagic. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy.

It is better to remove the retainer and the elastic band ... the elastic is displaced to the bottom relative to the shaft.

We unscrew the steering tips. I didn't have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila ... the tip came off. unscrew the nut and that's it. If the finger scrolls, then press the tip from the top with a pry bar and unscrew it to your health!

We unscrew the fastening of the rail itself. Twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

Unscrew the three heat shield bolts from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart! You will need such a key.

We first unscrew the blue bracket bolt, hold the tube, then the rest.

For convenience, you will need such a set with a gimbal.

To remove the rail, you need to lower the beam. You can replace the stabilizer bushings in one go, I did just that and so we lower the beam.

We lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, leave the right bolt, the beam will hold on it, and unscrew the left one completely and remove the spacer (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

We remove the rail to the left.

We wash it thoroughly with gasoline and carry it to a warm garage.

We unscrew the tips, you need two keys for 19 and one for 14.

We remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is not wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit).

we unscrew the adjusting sleeve a 40 key and a knob with a middle square.

Development of Teflon coating to metal.

We unscrew two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

We knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me).

The ring is in the repair kit.

Next, unscrew the guide nut, it is nibble. I did not drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, do not be afraid to drill)

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out. Connecting nut for 46.

Next, you need to knock out the gland that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil of those that remained behind the outlet fitting. I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the housing as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that a gap appeared between the shaft and the oil seal, the main goal was to release the air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

The second oil seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

You need to knock out gently with something softer than steel without damaging the inner working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

We see that there is a washer under the oil seal.

We rinse the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal).

A new washer can be taken from the repair kit.

I pressed the new oil seal with a head of 27 and two extension cords.

Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, looking like plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring needs to be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can break it, for example, I heated it a little over carrying lamp.)

Here's what happened in the end.

We install the shaft into the housing, before installing, roll a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to short out the oil seal. IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the shaft teeth can also damage the oil seal!

We crush the second oil seal with a new nut.

We lubricate this whole thing, I used a phyllore lubricant, of course it is possible with lithol, in general, whoever wants it!

Now we change the oil seal and the spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don't remember exactly which one, and at the beginning I pressed the oil seal and then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. We lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

We put all this on the rail (do not forget to change the ring it is in the repair kit).

We put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything).

How I adjusted: I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it by one turn and turned it back until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is needed so that the spring falls into place) effort ... I didn't find the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you swing the steering wheel) on the muffled engine is a thing of the past!)))

We screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo).

Screw-on tie rods, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings.

We put new retaining rings (with a mustache in the shaft), they are in the repair kit.

We put on the anthers. We tighten the steering tips (bend in front).

Everything… now we put it on the car. I think it's not worth describing the procedure!

I put myself a smaller diameter polyurethane bushings instead of 26.5 mm and 25.4 mm because the stabilizer itself was worn.

The main symptoms that indicate the need to repair the steering rack, first of all, a knock on the left or right side, or simultaneously on both sides (in some cases, a beating in the steering wheel may be felt). This photo report describes in detail how to make with your own hands steering rack repair by car Honda Accord CL. The repair procedure is quite complicated, it can take about a day in time.

Required tools:

• Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
• Collar with mean square;
• Torque wrench;
• An electric drill and a drill 4 or 5 mm are desirable;
• Pipe wrench (17-19);
• Large syringe with a straw;

The original Honda Accord 7 steering rack repair kit has a catalog number 06531SEAE03 and a price tag of about 3500 rubles. The steering rack bushing Accord 7 with the article number 53685-SDA-A01 costs about 500 rubles.

As of prices for the hot summer of 2017 for Moscow and the region.

Hello to all happy owners of Chords!
I would like to add a little more information on the repair of our painful slats!)))) A lot of things were discussed about this, I also decided to share my experience.
The problem actually was like that of many - this is an annoying knock, first from the right and then from the left. I endured all this until the right oil seal began to sweat. Winter is coming and I decided to fix this problem! I ordered a repair kit on the Internet, a bushing (lock nut), an adjusting sleeve, an upper spool oil seal (it comes with a bearing), a right boot, a week of waiting and everything came. And one more liter of fresh PSF.

From an unusual tool, you will need large keys (32, 40, 46), a mid-square wrench, a denometric wrench (you can do without it), preferably an electric drill and drill (4 or 5 mm), a pipe wrench (17-19), large syringe with a tube (remove liquid from the tank).

Now the whole process is in order:

1.we drive the car onto the overpass (pit), hang the front wheels.

2.We pump out the liquid from the tank

3. We disassemble the top (in the cabin)

just pull the guard towards you, it is held in place by the clips.

4. unscrew the steering column universal joint.

5. Pull the cardan from the slots to the top.
IMPORTANT: When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel.
Since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

6. unscrew the three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

removing this boot is problematic. noise insulation and a rug interfere, the boot is under them. Okay, take it off, put it in its place, that's hemorrhagic. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy. )))

it is better to remove the retainer and elastic band. the elastic is displaced to the bottom relative to the shaft.

7. Turn off the steering tips. I didn't have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila. the tip came off. unscrew the nut and that's it. If your finger scrolls, press the tip from the top with a pry bar and unscrew it to your health!) Unfortunately, I did not take a photo ((

8. unscrew the fastening of the rail itself.
We twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

9. unscrew the three bolts of the heat shield from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart!) You will need such a key.

11. first unscrew the blue bracket bolt, hold the tube, then the rest.

for convenience, you will need such a set with a gimbal.

12. to remove the rail you need to lower the beam. you can replace the stabilizer bushings in one go, and that's what I did.
so we lower the beam:

we lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, leave the right bolt, the beam will hold on it, and unscrew the left one completely and remove the spacer (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

thirteen.remove the rail to the left side

wash it thoroughly with gasoline and carry it to a warm garage))

14.Unscrew the tips you need two keys for 19 and one for 14

remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is not wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit)

15.Unscrew the adjusting sleeve a key 40 and a knob with a middle square.

development of teflon coating to metal

16. unscrew the two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

17.We knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me)

the ring is in the repair kit.

18. then unscrew the guide nut, it is nibbled. I did not drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, do not be afraid to drill))

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it. the rail can be thrown out. Nut under
key for 46

19. then you need to knock out the oil seal that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil that remain behind the outlet fitting.
I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the body as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that a gap appeared between the shaft and the oil seal, the main goal was to release air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

the second oil seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

you need to knock out gently with something softer than steel without damaging the internal working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

we see that there is a washer under the oil seal

21. We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal)

a new washer can be taken from the rem. kit

I pressed the new oil seal with a head of 27 and two extension cords

22. Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, looking like plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring needs to be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can break it, for example, it is a little heated over the carrying lamp.)

that's what happened in the end

23. install the shaft into the housing, before installing, put a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to close the oil seal.
IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the shaft teeth can also damage the oil seal!

24. Press the second oil seal with a new nut.

25. Lubricate the whole thing, I used violet grease, of course, lithol, in general, whoever wants anything!))

26. Now we change the oil seal and the spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don't remember exactly which one, and at the beginning I pressed the oil seal and then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. We lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

we put all this on the rail (do not forget to change the ring it is in the repair kit)

27. put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything)

How I regulated:
I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it by one turn and wrapped it again until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is needed so that the spring falls into place) If in the mind, then you need a denmetric key and do it all with some effort. I didn't have the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you roam the steering wheel) on the muffled engine is a thing of the past!)))

28. We screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo)

29.The steering rods to be screwed on, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings

put new retaining rings (mustache in the shaft) they are in the repair kit

31.fasten the steering tips (forward bend)

Everything. now we put on the car. I think it's not worth describing the procedure!)))

here are a few photos of the bushings that I replaced in one. I put myself a smaller diameter polyurethane bushings instead of 26.5 mm and 25.4 mm because the stabilizer itself was worn.

Good luck to everyone in the repair of your favorite car))).

The main symptoms that indicate the need to repair the steering rack, first of all, a knock on the left or right side, or simultaneously on both sides (in some cases, a beating in the steering wheel may be felt). This photo report describes in detail how to make with your own hands steering rack repair by car Honda Accord CL. The repair procedure is quite complicated, it can take about a day in time.

Required tools:

• Wrenches for 32, 40, 46;
• Collar with mean square;
• Torque wrench;
• An electric drill and a drill 4 or 5 mm are desirable;
• Pipe wrench (17-19);
• Large syringe with a straw;

When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel. Since you can break the train under the steering wheel. Also, do not clamp the rail body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it ... the rail can be thrown out!

At the moment, a car from a simple vehicle that is designed to carry passengers or simple movement around the city has turned into a comfortable and high-speed vehicle.
But at high speeds you need to be as confident as possible in the safety of your car.

The steering is designed to provide the driver with comfort and ease of movement.
Therefore, Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair is a priority task for proper driving.

Repair of the Honda Accord Steering Racks should be done immediately, as soon as the driver notices a malfunction.
If you hear a characteristic tapping sound when driving, then you may need a Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair.
For this, it is better to consult a specialist.

It should be noted that such a part of the car as the steering racks are highly durable and reliable.
Still, in the event of a malfunction, it can cost you dearly.
Do not postpone the repair of Honda Accord steering racks and contact a specialized car service if there is a crunching of the steering assembly and leakage in its area.

It is important to remember that timely Honda Accord Steering Rack Repair will help you avoid many dangerous situations on the road that can end very badly.

The following factors can cause a malfunction of the steering racks of the car:
* Aggressive and abrupt use of the steering wheel while driving;
* Poor quality hydraulics and fluid;
* Poor quality road surface;

Emergency situations on the roads requiring a sharp response.
Repair of steering racks Honda Accord is carried out by our specialists competently and efficiently.

To identify problems in a timely manner, you should regularly diagnose the operation of the car, especially its components. This will allow you to prevent unexpected breakdowns and replace worn-out units in time.
These "preventive" measures will allow you to avoid more global problems, such as replacing the steering assembly.
A properly functioning steering rack is a symbol of reliability and safety while driving.
It is not for nothing that, with regular maintenance, close attention is paid to it.

Repair of Honda Accord Steering Racks must be carried out on special equipment by a master with special skills.

If the steering rack is faulty, it will be necessary to replace it with a new one.
A similar method should be used when its repair is difficult or very expensive.

When repairing a steering rack in a car service, it is completely disassembled and a comprehensive assessment of its condition is made, and a possible defect and malfunctions are detected.
All parts must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and corrosion, and seals, bearings and washers must be replaced.
After these procedures, the rail is assembled and installed, the toe-out is performed and the car can be used.
The whole procedure will not take long.

After removing the steering rack from the car, we conduct an external inspection of the unit

Next, we unscrew the steering rods together with the anthers of the steering rack and its tips, since without doing this it is not possible to repair the steering rack on the Honda Accord 7

After carrying out the above procedure, we see surface corrosion of the steering rack rod, which can be removed by grinding it.

Then the steering rack Honda Accord 7 is completely disassembled into all its components, including the steering rack repair kit.

Further, all parts of the steering rack are thoroughly washed with a special solution, the steering rack rod is sanded to give it a mirror surface.

We select a new repair kit for the steering rack Honda Accord 7

Since after grinding the steering rack shaft, its size decreased, and the guide sleeve remained the same size, if you do not replace it, then the owner of the car will have a knock on the steering rack of the Honda Accord

After replacing the old bushing with a repair one, we install it on the rail.

The final stage of repairing the honda accord 7 steering rack is its adjustment.

One of the most important points in the repair of a Honda Accord 7 steering rack is the replacement of rods, anthers and steering rack tips. Particular attention should be paid to the anthers of the steering rack, as they protect the rack from the effects of the external environment and ensure the durability of the unit. The specialists of our technical center will do this work absolutely free of charge (rods, anthers, tips are not included in the cost of repairing the rail and are purchased separately).

POWER STEERING
Steering Rack Repair
Moscow, Ostapovsky proezd, 7
GO TO OLD SITE

Special tool
Ball joint remover 28mm (07MAS-SL00200)

When assembling, pay attention to the following.

• Using a solvent and a brush, remove grease and dirt from the end of the gearbox, avoiding the solvent coming into contact with the electrical components. Blow out and dry the washed areas with compressed air.
• Remember to remove the steering wheel before disassembling the joint. Otherwise, you may damage the slip ring.

Make sure you have a security code for your audio system, then write down the settings for the stations that the receiver is pre-configured by the owner. Remove the battery.

Steering Is one of the most important parts of a car. Its main purpose is to tie the front wheels and steering wheels together, to set the direction of movement for the car. It is thanks to her that the direction of movement of the car on the road is determined.

True, like any other part of the car, it is subject to wear and tear. They affect traffic safety, driving, wear and tear of other parts of the car. Tires wear out especially strongly in such a situation. Therefore, it is important to monitor the serviceability of this part and troubleshoot in time.

By car "Honda»This part has a high level of reliability. As a rule, before a run of 18 thousand km, there are no difficulties with its operation. She does not have typical breakdowns that are not typical for other car brands. Basic breakdowns happen for the same reasons as with other vehicles.

In most cases, cars are hydraulic racks, but some Honda vehicles are equipped with electric steering parts... They wear out faster, in them the sleeve of the right end of the shaft most often fails. In this case repair yourself steering rack "Honda Civic" impossibleas it requires a special tool and a lot of experience with parts.

The main signs that indicate the need for repair are knocking from under the front suspensionwhen the steering wheel is turned to the side. As a rule, this indicates the need to replace the broken bushings of the worm gear pair. Leakage of working fluid requires replacing damaged oil seals and cleaning parts from corrosion.

Another problem that speaks of the need to repair the steering rack "Honda Fit" - steering play... It usually occurs due to the development of a distributor rod or worm gear teeth. Replacing these parts is also required when biting the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is tight, the problem is most likely a corrosion in the assembly. It can only be eliminated by disassembling it completely and cleaning every part.

It should be understood that repairing the steering rack "Honda Accord 8" is an expensive pleasure. It also takes a lot of time.

The difficulty also lies in the fact that for some car models it is difficult to find a complete set of the unit. Then you have to select parts from different cars, but in this case, the guarantee of the unit will be low. Sometimes it will be more justified to completely replace the rail with a new original one.

Now let's take a closer look at typical breakdowns and ways to fix them.

In this case, you can try to repair the steering rack "Honda Accord 7" preventby adjusting the nut tightening degree. But if the crankcase or steering rack shaft has mechanical damage or deformation, you will still have to carry out repair work. Their cost, as already mentioned, will be quite high.

This is one of the main causes of node breakdowns. This type of breakdown usually does not require serious renovation... If you give the car to a car service to a good specialist, he can simply adjust the backlash, spending relatively little time on it.

If there is a leak in this unit of the car, this indicates oil seal wear... Its damage leads to a violation of the tightness of the system. A process fluid flows out through the resulting ruptures, which requires an urgent and mandatory replacement of the oil seal. This is a complex and jewelery process that requires removing the bolts (they are almost always covered with corrosion), the crossbeam, and in particularly difficult cases it is necessary to hang out the engine.

Knocking, as a rule, appears due to overcoming various obstacles at high speeds. He talks about wear, and sometimes destruction of the bushings. In this case, they need to replace... To do this, the unit will have to be dismantled, damaged parts replaced, installed back, and then adjusted to work. In this case, repairing the steering rack "Honda SRV 3" requires a special tool, so it is almost impossible to carry it out on your own without certain skills.

Any repair is a whole list of works aimed at restoring the operation of the mechanism in the mode provided by the manufacturer. In the process, it is necessary to identify and eliminate malfunctions, replace parts, adjust their work.

Before making repairs, you must prepare the car to work. To do this, dismantle all units that block access to the unit: air filter, resonator, battery. Its removal is also carried out according to a special procedure. When it is removed, it is taken apart and all parts are cleaned.

To carry out a correct and adequate repair of a part, it is necessary to carry out a clear diagnosis of it, as well as the units associated with it. Therefore, the repair of the steering rack in St. Petersburg must be carried out at service stations only by qualified specialists.

To repair the assembly, you will need a repair kit, which will cost about 50 USD, then anthers for it (about 30 USD each), a steering column bushing, which costs about 15 USD, a liter of power steering fluid.

From instruments you will need a working power steering (if the previous one is broken), adjustable wrenches, heads and a reliable vice. For complex repairs that require suspension of the engine, special equipment is required.

Depending on the type of breakdown, the unit is repaired in different ways.

In case of minor malfunctions or maintenance work, the system is flushed and cleaned. It takes a little time and does not require a lot of money.

This type of repair requires removal of the assembly. Then held such works, how:

• removal and disassembly of the unit;
• flushing and cleaning the unit and its parts;
• replacement of parts that cannot be restored;
• checking and cleaning the gear shaft;
• replacement of components (rings, oil seals, anthers, etc.);

Depending on the damage and wear of the parts, the repair can take from a couple of hours to a couple of days. At the end of the repair, several stages of its adjustment and performance checks are carried out.

Since such repairs take a lot of time, not everyone is ready to wait several days until it is completed. In this case, the spent assembly is replaced with an already assembled new one of the same configuration. This is also a long and laborious process.

1. First, you need to remove the battery terminal, unscrew the pain around the pedals by 10 and disconnect the steering shaft.
2. Then raise the car, disconnect the wheels, unscrew the steering end of the caliper. Sometimes at the same time they remove the boot without removing the tip.
3. Then it is necessary to remove the chips from the assembly and unscrew the bolts that hold the subframe.

The assembly of the assembly is carried out strictly in the reverse order. When the repaired or new rail is installed in place, it is necessary to carry out repeated testing of the unit operation, which will determine the accuracy of the work performed, indicate how ready the machine is for further operation.

The quality of work is evidenced by the absence of noise and difficulties when turning the steering wheel, a stable level of the hydraulic booster fluid, and the absence of foaming. Preventive work in the area of ​​the site must be carried out every six months.

As you can see, repairing a Honda steering rack is a difficult job that requires a lot of experience, knowledge, qualifications and special conditions, even for a simple replacement of a broken unit with a new one. To do this in an ordinary garage is practically unreal.

The cost of a new unit is high, and repair or replacement work takes a lot of time. Therefore, it is much wiser in time contact a car service to specialists for diagnostics and prevention of all its details.

Honda Accord 7th generation. Overview of weak points.

The seventh generation Honda Accord is one of the most popular Japanese sedans in Russia. Indeed, the car is comfortable, pleasant to drive, rather unpretentious and economical for its class. Today we will tell you about the weak points Honda Accord 7 generations from the point of view of the people repairing these cars. We will deliberately omit many “problems”, such as fogging headlights, or fogging the paintwork - they are not so serious as to draw attention to them, and we will consider them “annoying misunderstandings”. Our article will be devoted to the critical elements of the car, the repair of which can lead to the downtime of the car, or can be long and expensive.

So, if you decide to purchase a VII generation Accord, first of all, start the car, look under the hood, and listen for any extraneous sounds. The weakest points of the Chord are located just under the hood and they are “caught” by ear, and some “by eye”.

Exhaust camshaft (problem specific to K20A or low power K24 engines)

The first thing that you must unambiguously decide for yourself is whether or not you hear the sound of “clattering” valves. For those who do not really understand what "clacking" valves are, we can try to explain this: the upper part of the engine, the place where HONDA is written, or in another way, where the plug coils are located, should not emit any clicking or rattling sounds louder than the human voice when speaking. That is, if you open the hood, and with the engine running, you have to raise your voice so that the interlocutor can hear you, there is sound.

If there is a sound, you need to open the valve cover and see the condition of the exhaust camshaft (the one that is closer to the passenger compartment). This operation (costing about $ 15) should be done in the conditions of a car service, preferably a specialized one, since in order to put everything back, a new valve cover gasket may be required.A visual inspection, usually, is quite enough to understand whether a simple adjustment of the valve thermal clearance is required ($ 60-70), or it is necessary to change the exhaust camshaft ($ 500-600 together with work).
If there is no sound, it's already good. So the car was being followed. It is impossible to “remove” or somehow mask the existing sound of a worn camshaft. Therefore, if there really is no sound, we move on to another place in the engine compartment - automatic transmission (if the car, of course, is equipped with it)

Automatic transmission cover bearings (only for vehicles with automatic transmission)

Wear of the automatic transmission side cover bearings is a problem typical, according to Honda, for pre-styling Accords, regardless of the steering wheel location. It is very simple to identify it by ear - ask someone to switch the automatic transmission selector modes, and listen to the sound from the arch of the left (in the direction of travel) wheel yourself. If you hear a characteristic howling sound when switching modes, most likely the bearings need to be replaced. It is not as expensive as it might seem. The spare part itself (cover assembly) costs about $ 150-170, and its replacement costs about $ 100. Attention! The part should only be selected according to the complete body number! However, it is a good bargaining chip if you are buying a car.

Knocking and leaking steering rack.

Chord steering rack problems can be divided into two categories, depending on the location of the car's steering wheel.

"Left-handed" Accord with a hydro-rudder installed on board has the following weaknesses:

1. Leaking steering rack (almost constant problem).

We recommend that you examine this unit very carefully, since in most cases, the owners are simply too lazy to monitor the amount of liquid in the rail, which, in the event of a leak, leads to severe wear of the rail shaft (stem), and this is fraught with the replacement of the assembly.

The most annoying thing is that in the case of a rake knocking (which has nothing to do with a leak, usually), we have the same end point - ignoring the obvious rake knocking, or servicing it at poor locksmiths, the Accord “reaches” to replace the entire assembly, from - for a broken shaft.

Another way of “killing” the rail is the timely refilling of fluid into the tank, though not of Honda's PSF, but of Dexron (or fluids based on it), which leads to accelerated wear of the seals and, as a result, to failure of the rack. It is very simple to check what exactly the owner poured into the rail - open the tank, dip your finger into the liquid (it is not hot), and look at the drop. If the drop is the color of vegetable oil, everything is in order. If it is red, there is a reason for bargaining. There should be no red fluid in the Honda power steering!

How to track the condition of the rail for leaks if you are going to buy a car? Simple enough - look under the hood, look at the anthers of the steering rods, and at the place where the steering column enters the rack. If they are dirty, the rail is most likely running. Contact a service specialist for Honda vehicles to have them diagnose and inspect the unit. Under normal conditions, this procedure costs up to $ 70, but it shows well whether it makes sense to repair this rail (the cost of repair together with repair kits can reach $ 350), or you need to look for a contract node.

Catching the “knock” of the rail is even easier - quickly shake the steering wheel left and right while the car is on the ground. If you hear bangs on the steering wheel, go to the service for the above procedure. The clamping cracker or the output sleeve of the steering rack can knock, replacing which, in itself, is inexpensive, but it is necessary to look at the general condition of the rack (shaft) so as not to waste it. Sometimes the rail is “knocked out” before a complete replacement is required.

Right hand drive.

The internal Japanese Accord differs from its European counterpart in the absence of a power steering. Instead, the Japanese preferred to install an electric power steering, which automatically removed the problem of all kinds of leaks and refills. At the same time, the Japanese simply could not help but leave a big “hello” to those who will use the cars after them, making the electric rail non-separable.

It would seem - yes, okay, it's okay, but there is nothing to break in it. Nearly. This magic word “almost” spoils the whole picture, because every owner of a right-handed chord is familiar with the problem of knocking the steering rack output bushing, which on a “left-handed hydrocollegiate” quietly changes separately from everything, and at the right handlebar, it is a non-separable structural element. That is, if the bushing in the steering rack breaks, judging by the logic of the Japanese, it is necessary to change the rack (the price difference is almost 30 times). We are in a hurry to please - a part from the left steering wheel will not fit on the right one.

Nevertheless, this is not a reason for panic - in Russia there are already many different technologies for restoring steering rack bushings, the most interesting and promising of which, in our opinion, is the technology in which original Japanese kits and spare parts are used. The cost of such a repair is about $ 100-150, however, during repair, it is necessary to defect the condition of the shaft (rod) of the rail. If it is worn out, the repair will be useless and the new bushing will fail in a very short time.

Power steering high pressure hose (only for left-hand drive vehicles)

Another weak point of the steering system of the Accord is the wear of the power steering high pressure hose. On the one hand, it may seem that this is a trifle - well, just think, a hose, it cannot be expensive. But you didn’t guess! Although it is a hose, it costs from $ 400 to $ 500, and even on order for a long time.

It is also almost impossible to find it during disassembly - it is mainly cut so that it does not interfere with the transportation of the power steering pump.

It is quite easy to determine the condition of the power steering high-pressure hose - it is either intact or with a leak, and in the second case, it is unlikely to be put up for sale until the problem is fixed. But it is possible, in principle, to eliminate it quite easily. If finances allow you to order an original hose, it is better, of course, to take it. But if you need to do everything urgently and inexpensively, contact a company that repairs and manufactures high-pressure hoses for special equipment. There are such firms in every city, and the cost of repairing a hose is unlikely to be more expensive than $ 80, and its removal and installation - $ 50. In the overwhelming majority of cases, replacing the original hose with a manufactured one takes place without any consequences. In some cases, unfortunately, there is a problem of “howling” of the power steering pump; apparently, not all hoses can be replaced with sleeves that are necessary in terms of inner diameter. If the hose is selected incorrectly, the power steering pump may experience oil starvation. But this happens extremely rarely, therefore, in our opinion, it is worth trying, especially since the price of a manufactured hose can be up to 10 times lower than the original hose.

These are actually all the main problems of the 7th generation Chord. There are still many small bugs that users complain about - for example, that the rear breakup bolts rust, that the 45 amp battery does not start the car well in winter, and so on, but we are not inclined to attribute them to car problems. The key weaknesses of the Accord in the CL body that can lead to expensive repairs are listed above. Everything else is not a problem, these are ways of caring for this very reliable (as practice shows) car.