DIY steering rack repair Audi a6 c4

In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair audi a6 c4 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

still in the process of writing
This report consists of materials made iva99380798(for which many thanks to him.) Well, and my ad-libbing.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and instructions on the borrowed photos, because info taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. = 1 # post2068729

Background.
For some time now, I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. Moreover, it does not depend on a straight line or with inverted wheels. And recently, the flow of the reiki itself was added

Story.

Since walking is not quite hunting, I began to look for the rail in an inoperative state. The guys loaded up exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out for a long time which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its affiliation to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is how she looks on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I'll try

Image - DIY steering rack repair audi a6 c4

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Having fished out the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here is such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to shoot a reiki.

First, we climb under the torpedo from the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's feet.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rack (a bolt with an eccentric and a wrench for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the work in the salon.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the swivel levers.

Then, from the driver's side, remove the protective casing / boot

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, underneath is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the form of a 12-sided head, for which a 10-sided head with 12 sides was purchased. Immediately I unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Video (click to play).

Then I got under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Then he unscrewed the slurry supply to the rail, the bolt 22 + 2 pucks (we don’t lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the slurry return - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Here everything is released, we take out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I didn’t take off the wheels, I just jacked it up on this side)
And now this is a miracle in hand

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they were twisted.
Next, remove the anthers ... It is better to prepare the place in advance, because a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the steering rods, I had one on the verge of death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I would not think.

1.Next, we screw it on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tighten the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we try to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

2. Remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Then, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/ URL] and take out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm, I changed:
1 gland and one o-ring on the bushing with the bearing (here it is on the left side)

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on the shaft itself there are 4 white little rings and under them 4 black ones. We lubricate everything with liquid and put it aside until assembly.

Move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We need to remove the retaining ring (it is already taken off a little higher in the photo). We put the rail on the “priest” and pulling / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem (1), the bushing (2), and the shaft itself.

We take the stock. On it we change the O-ring and the oil seal
Next, on the bushing, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We make his troubleshooting. My shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on the one hand.
Change 1 white sealing ring on the shaft. Now we put all this aside until assembly and grab the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft) and take the head on 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and, with a light blow, knock out the oil seal and the bushing, which are approximately in the middle of the body. These are they:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.

From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I picked them up and went to tempt fate once again.
He took off the rail again, disassembled it, wiped everything. He took off the oil seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters were considered:
1. The thickness of the gland is the same, the only difference is in the installation of the nylon ring

2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. Appearance of the working surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. It is apparently designed to work under high pressure.
I made better pictures:
The first photo shows the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th oil seal

Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155

_________________
Every real owner of a 44 body in life has to do three things:

- Build a garage
- Go to vacuum
- Defeat Jetronic

all this is already available on the links above, I just don’t eat the groove on the washer?

_________________
Every real owner of a 44 body in life has to do three things:

- Build a garage
- Go to vacuum
- Defeat Jetronic

Tell me, can anyone come across, today I took off the rail I wanted to go through, I even bought a repair kit, and the bolts numbered 40 41 42. d = A37000E2 for an internal hexagon, the edges are not unscrewed from time to time. I looked at the catalog, they are 200r each, that is, 4 bolts 800r and wait two weeks, by the way I unscrewed my own with a hammer and a chisel, but somehow it’s scary to put them back in the same way. and suddenly it flows, it's back to shoot. who got out of the situation?

As it is sad 700r rem kit 800r bolts 400 anther. Can it be easier to take the rail from the disassembly? What do you think?

A leak appeared on the steering rack of the Audi 100, therefore a repair kit was purchased and produced steering rack repair, namely: disassembly, bulkhead and reassembly.

To repair the rail yourself, you will need:

repair kit can be 443 498 020A Febi,
2 liters of liquid G002 or equivalent (Febi 6162),
rubber boot of the rack.

And from the tools you will need:

hexagon to "6",
heads with extensions,
drift,
keys to "10" and "13",
hammer,
gasoline (for flushing),
rags.

Removing the rail from the car is not difficult, but repairing the steering rack of the Audi 100 (disassembling, washing, changing and assembling) is much more difficult.Therefore, this photo report will be quite useful to look through.

Koyo Steering Rack Replacement for ZF Servotronic Audi A6 C5 Report
VanVanych

The whistle rushed

Slavs without waiting for us immediately dived headlong

In the cabin, we take out the key from the lock, block the steering wheel “straight ahead”, remove the cover under the steering wheel with an 8mm head (2 bolts under the cover above the steering wheel, which we remove by pulling it towards ourselves, 2 bolts from the bottom of the cover and one to the left under the fuse cover).

We unscrew the steering universal joint from the rack, turn it clockwise and take out the eccentric bolt, take out the boot:

Unscrew the upper bolts (you need a multifaceted head for 10).
One bolt opposite the vacuum cleaner:

Next, you need to remove the heat shield between the exhaust and the rail (it is held on small bolts, it is inconvenient to unscrew it).
After unscrewing the screen, you just need to raise it higher so that it does not interfere with unscrewing the tubes and the lower rail bolt:

We take this equipment in our hands and unscrew the lower rail bolt from below (located diagonally from the upper one behind the steering shaft), the second should guide the head from above, on the restyled A6 with automatic transmission, the bolt is not visible from below (except through the window from the passenger compartment) Finding the lower bolt clear in the photo of the reiki below in the report.

Another boot must be removed on the left side behind the wheel, this view of the rail opens, it has already moved away:

We unscrew the two feed and return pipes with a ratchet with an extension and a universal joint (the bolts are those with simple edges, do not be confused, there are also tubes with hexagon bolts on the rail itself, of course, do not touch them

).
We immediately put on the bags carefully so that dirt does not get in:

We take out the patient Koyo carefully to the left, put it next to the ZF, compare for interest (ZF in the photo below):

Here it is, the Servotronic valve on the ZF rail:

But the heat shield, which greatly interferes with removal, here you can understand where the bolts of its fastening are located:

We plug the holes of both rails:

We rearrange what is needed, approximately adjust the tips, clean, lubricate, as usual, under a continuous banter

On the ZF, it turned out that a plastic damper-limiter flew out of the landing on the left (it softens the blow when turning to the stop), we put it back tightly:

But by the way, a check valve in the bolt connecting the feed tube:

And we begin to start in place, we connect the tubes as carefully as possible:

We bait the rail from above, then we just as inconveniently bait the bolt from below and stretch all 3:

In the cabin, we put on a boot (in it we make a small hole in the narrow part for a wire that could be passed through the plugs, but it seemed to us more convenient to do this, in our case, the connector will still need to be changed), put the rail in the middle and put on the cardan (steering the shaft easily slides up and dangles, thereby facilitating removal / installation):

The bolt has an eccentric part, you need to insert the bolt, screw in and bring the nut, turn the bolt with a star counterclockwise until it stops and then just tighten the nut. Of course, there is a special notch on the rack shaft for the bolt.

Next, we collect everything else, we pump the hydraulic system with a new oil (first we add, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock 15 times, expelling the air, of course with the suspended wheels. Then, also with the engine running):

Previously, we drained the old oil almost completely, somehow Slavik, without sparing his stomach and lungs, drove out the black liquid when the rail was removed

We pumped it over, then we check the operation of the Servotronic (red at +12 to the terminal where “+” goes when the ignition is on, yellow to the body). There was no standard servo relay on this quake, below we present the Servotronic connection diagram.
The result of the check is that without a valve, the steering wheel does not turn easily, with the valve on with one finger, and even gains inertia)))))

VICTORY.

We installed such a relyuha so that the Servotronic worked as it should (it controls a valve that makes the steering wheel easier when the car's speed decreases):

And this is the Servotronic connection diagram (I scribbled out the diagram from the original manual and edited it in my own way, who needs the original, write):

We put in order the wiring, put everything in place:

The patient is completely ready, and we, pleased with ourselves, turned off the ESP and, without letting the owner behind the wheel, drove to drift with the lightest steering wheel, but with a loud muzzle

Finally, a satisfied owner was admitted to the wheel

vraginas

Mike

рос87

Andrey

4*4

I reviewed the photo, you would have with Slavchik on the spit)))

VanVanych

Black

VanVanych

Black

Video (click to play).

VanVanych

The second generation Audi A6 was fitted with both ZF and Koyo steering racks. It is impossible to unambiguously determine which manufacturer's rail is on the machine, but there are characteristic features of the malfunctions by which one can judge. ZF and Koyo rails have different typical faults.

At repair of the steering rack A6 II Corrosion is a major problem in ZF production. The metal parts of the ZF steering rack are made of high-quality, but not at all corrosion-resistant metal. Therefore, if the steering rods were once changed on the Audi A6 II and the anthers were removed, the appearance of corrosion inside the rail is very likely. If you do not know the technology of installing anthers, it is not easy to make them airtight.

After the appearance of corrosion on the shafts, the oil seals begin to leak, as they cannot work on a rusty surface. As the people say: the steering rack "ran". Rack parts damaged by corrosion are restored at Gidrolab without any problems. We have all modern methods of shaft-rack corrosion protection.Shallow corrosion (less than 0.2 mm deep) can be removed free of charge. What kind of corrosion is and how to eliminate it is described in the material: Corrosion of the shaft-rack.

It should be noted that the appearance of leaks on the steering rack of the Audi A6 does not unambiguously mean that there is corrosion inside. In half of the cases, the oil seals on the A6 steering racks begin to leak simply because they are “tired” of working - they are worn out. This happens on these machines. It is enough to simply replace the oil seals with new ones and the rail will go further.

At repair of the steering rack A6 from Koyo we have to deal with very different problems.

The Achilles' heel of Koyo steering racks on the Audi A6 is the distributor crankcase wear malfunction. It should be noted that the appearance of this malfunction is often associated with an incorrect power steering fluid. At the same time, it darkens very quickly, then the pump deteriorates (howl and do not swing at idle), and the steering rack begins to wedge in the morning (on a cold car) in one or both sides. Moreover, if you have all these symptoms, then you almost certainly have a Koyo-made rail installed.

Gidrolab company specially for repair of steering racks A6 has developed its own proprietary technology for restoring damaged crankcases with wear. Repetition of the wear of the distributor crankcase after repair in Gidrolab is impossible.

Repair of the steering rack A6 in a company with crankcase wear gives excellent results. The rail turns out to be no worse than the new one. Therefore, repair in such cases is better than purchasing others - remanufactured or used ones. steering racks and for price and results.

Unfortunately, in cars with wear on the distributor crankcase, the power steering pump often suffers. Aluminum wear products do not disappear anywhere, but accumulate in the power steering system. The power steering pump is very critical to the purity of the oil and aluminum shavings kill it. To minimize the negative consequences of distributor crankcase wear, Gidrolab will do everything necessary - flush the power steering system from metal particles in the oil, replace the reservoir, and clean the hoses.

The appearance of play in the steering rack of the Koyo Audi A6, unlike the ZF, is a frequent phenomenon. In addition to the A6 steering rack bushings, the cracker itself is backlash, which should fix the shaft-rack from moving up and down and press the teeth of the shafts to each other. Unfortunately, the cracker crankcase and the cracker itself on Koyo rails wear out quickly. In the Gidrolab company, such a malfunction is repaired according to its proprietary method with an invariably excellent result. This is one of the simpler malfunctions. Read more here: Wear of a cracker and its crankcase

Repair of the steering rack A6 II in the Gidrolab company does not cause difficulties and is very well developed. Come and see for yourself!

In most cases, car owners pay attention to such an element as the steering rack of the Audi A6 C4 when unpleasant knocks appear in the area of the front end. At first, this knock is not very strong, but over time it increases, which is reflected in the steering wheel, and this is clearly visible on uneven roads. This is just a sign that the problem is with the steering rack.

In addition to knocking, a malfunction can also manifest itself in the form of fluid leakage from the rail. As a result, this mechanism must either be repaired or replaced with a new one, which does not suit everyone because of the cost. And in this case it is better to install a quality repaired railthan just buying a used one, since no one will give a guarantee for a used one. The main reason for rack wear is the poor quality of the roads, as well as the driving behavior of the car. Among other things, you need to periodically inspect the rail for leaks. If the car is operated with torn anthers, then this does not bode well for a long operation of this unit.

A torn boot, even not necessarily strong, a small hole is enough, leads to the ingress of dirt inside, which significantly increases the wear of the seals and the rail begins to leak. In addition to the above reasons, the failure of the unit in question may be due to the left turned out wheels in the winter.Failure to change the hydraulic fluid will also lead to premature failure. Basically, it all depends on the driver.

In most cases, the seals wear out, corrosion appears on the working part of the shaft, corrosion of the screw, the distributor crankcase wears out, the central tooth wears out. Before disassembling the rail, it must be thoroughly washed. Next, the wear of the rod and sleeve is measured, the seals are checked. When repairing the rail, all seals should be replaced. Corrosion of the above-described elements is due to the presence of condensation inside the rail, and since the surface of these elements is bare metal, rust appears accordingly. The relatively quick failure of the steering rack in the conditions of our country is explained by the fact that in Europe cars are designed for their own roads. Naturally, the materials for the bushings are appropriate.

In general, the resource of the steering rack is quite large, but again it depends on the driving style and service. If the rail was repaired with high quality, then its resource is 70% of the installation of a new part. As is clear from the article, the steering rack is repairable. But there are also cases when repairs are absolutely not profitable. It is easier in such situations to purchase a new part.

As recommendations, the following can be given: you need to monitor the condition of the anthers. This is perhaps one of the most important points. Avoid holding the steering wheel in the extreme left position for more than 5 seconds. Also, in extreme positions, it is not necessary to develop high engine speeds. Besides that the power steering pump is worn out, this is how the power steering system becomes dirty, the load on the steering gear and on the steering rack parts increases, and this also leads to a breakdown of the power steering seals.

In winter, to leave the parking lot, you do not need to turn the steering wheel right after the engine has warmed up. The steering wheel needs to be twisted in smooth movements. This allows the oil in the hydraulic system of this mechanism to be heated. When carrying out work in the service, it will not be superfluous to monitor the operations performed that affect the steering, since it is a fairly responsible unit.

1. Remove the steering gear from the car (see. subsection 5.5.1).

2. Clamp the steering gear in a vice with soft jaws or install it in special tool 67.7820.9536 for assembly and disassembly work.

Plant Neva Parkovaya 3. The slats are being repaired there. Although everyone will now begin to say that it is necessary to buy a new one and that the kroilovo will lead to the popalov.

just like that - you can try to repair if they take it.
sometimes they do not take it if the wear is critical and they cannot give a guarantee
repaired on my A6 - it was enough for me for a year, then I sold it.

I gave them the car to change the boot on the rail and at the same time see the state of the rail itself, as there were suspicions,
the master called, said - I disassembled the rail, but it does not need repairing,
They took money only for replacing the closure and liquid (he brought his own).
At the same time, the master showed where I had problems in the suspension.
I was satisfied.
I go for a year, while everything is ok.

PS: they seem to have the ability to change the filling in case of strong wear and tear.

Repaired myself, though at work (in the factory). I bought a repair kit for 2500r and go. Year-flight is normal (TTT).

Thanks for the answer. They advise me a lot of things here, buy a used one for 1500 or be repaired at "Plant Neva Parking 3", but I will do it myself according to your example. Hence the questions, if not difficult:
1. Where did you buy a repair kit and which one (i.e. if the types and which one did you take)
2. Do you have any repair kit number (you need to try to order a repair kit on EXIST).
3. I climbed into ELSA, but there is nothing about the structure of the rail itself, if you tell me something about its bulkhead, I will be very cool.
Thanks in advance to VVBCOM.

2.Do you have any repair kit number (you need to try to order a repair kit on EXIST).

If I'm not confusing anything, then here it is number 4a1498020

Advice. Take a used one for 1500 and do not worry (if it does not leak), a normal repair kit is more expensive, or the same. I did without it. I missed all joints and mustache with a good sealant.

Audi A6 (C4) 2.5 TDi The steering rack leaks heavily. I add half a can of slurry a week. You have to shoot and do it. Tell me who did it some kind of nuh.

try to sort out the rail yourself, on your car I give a guarantee you get only 3 oil seals change and that's it, if I'm not mistaken (28-38, there are two of them) (20-30, upper steering wheel on the head) Audyukha did the last a month ago, I’m doing it myself, I have been doing hydraulics for 5 years, please contact me to answer your questions.

Judging by the date, he probably already did it.

Maybe, well, all the same, he just offered help, suddenly someone has the same problem with the steering: audi: well, in other matters, contact any car.

Consider the design, symptoms and causes of malfunction, how diagnostics and repair of the Audi 100 steering rack are done.

The steering rack of the Audi 100 is a mechanism that is capable of transferring torque from the steering wheel to the steering rods. Thus, it is a mechanism for controlling the driving wheels of a car.

In general, the steering rack of the Audi 100 C4 is a reliable unit that is sufficiently protected from various outside influences. Its failure is not a unique case, but it is still rare. The key reason for the failure of the rail is the specific load, especially when it falls into the pits.

The condition of the helmsman is badly deteriorated due to unevenness on the roads, constant impacts can deform or break certain bonds. Also, driving a car, in the realities of modern roads, consists in bypassing large pits at the expense of small ones, which causes significant damage to the entire unit.

Mechanical is a fairly old option, as it requires considerable effort. It is often used in old cars, especially domestic ones;
Hydraulic is the most common type, as it allows you to drive a car with less effort, especially at low speed. Achieved through the use of hydraulics;
Electric is a modern model, it is not often used today. The principle of operation is based on an electric motor. This option is interesting and effective, but quite expensive.

The rail design has approximately the same components:

Tie rod, which also includes the tip. Attaches to fixed bases and helps to adjust the direction of the wheels;
Gears. The force applied to the steering rack is transmitted to the rods and further by means of a gear;
The body or crankcase of the device is made of aluminum;
Bearings. Serve to facilitate the movement of mechanisms;
Springs. Due to their presence, the pressure between the rack and the gear is regulated. Allows to avoid backlash in the steering wheel;
Limiters.They serve to fix the end position of the steering wheel, and, accordingly, the angle of rotation of the driving wheels.

A malfunctioning steering system is a problem that must be given due importance, otherwise the risk of steering is increased. Damage and failure of the mechanism is often manifested by the following symptoms:

A knock is heard at the helmsman, which is an alarm signal;
The steering wheel can only be turned with great effort;
Liquid leaks from the rack casing, which indicates a lack of tightness in the unit;
The steering wheel is fixed or can only turn under strong pressure, usually in jerks;
Steering play.

The presence of even one of the described manifestations causes concern for the responsible driver. If you do not delay the trip to the service, then you will be able not only to save money, but also to maintain the safety of passengers.

Due to the reluctance to seek help, additional problems often arise. Even those situations that required minimal intervention can develop into serious problems that will entail the need to completely change the entire node.

The reason for the wear of the entire assembly is the stress load on it. When hitting pits or hitting any bumps, the steering system inevitably takes on a certain amount of effort. For a high-quality reiki, this influence is not critical and it lasts for a long time. Economy-class cars, alas, do not have such indicators.

In case of unprofessional assembly of the unit or cracks (which are rare), residues of dirt or dust may get inside. This in turn leads to wear on the steering wheel.

Preventive work saves a lot of money on repair or replacement of the steering wheel. To maintain the operating condition of the unit, it is necessary to change the hydraulic fluid in a timely manner, clean the boot, and make sure that it is intact.

More than all other elements of the assembly, it is the seals, the slider and the stem that are subject to wear. The rest fails much less frequently.

To minimize the cost of repairing the Audi 100 C4 rail, it is possible to timely contact the service center. Specialized workers will help to carry out high-quality diagnostics and select the least costly and effective way to eliminate the malfunction.

Before looking on the Internet for "Audi 100 rail repair", we recommend that you make a diagnosis of the steering unit of your car. Diagnostics, first of all, is made based on the description of the problem, then the root of the problem becomes approximately clear. In general, the thrust should be checked first, both longitudinal and lateral. It is worth noting that the design of the rack in all cars, although it has a similar principle, still differs in some nuances. So experts with extensive experience will help to correct the direction of diagnostics by recognizing the car model.

Visual inspection takes up a significant part of diagnostic measures; it is necessary to inspect the hydraulic unit, there should be no leakage or any mechanical damage. Attention is drawn to corrosion, if it has developed strongly and has reached an area of 0.5 mm, then the component is replaced, otherwise it will soon be possible to contact the service station again.

Bearing fastening should also be good. When the fastening is loosened, a knock may appear, it is also not worth pinching.

Before proceeding with the repair or replacement of the rail, all fasteners should be checked. By tightening or loosening certain latches, it is really possible to restore the previous operation of the unit, if the malfunction was not caused by more serious problems. If there is a breakdown in other components, then this will also become clear when adjusting the rail.

You can find the required screw under the end cover in the mechanism. In order to get close to it, you will have to go down under the car.

Adjustment is a very precise process and constant checks must be carried out in order to achieve optimum tightening. If the steering wheel turns in place quite clearly, smoothly and easily, then you should experience its behavior on the go. Readjust the retainer if necessary.

Repair of the Audi 100 C4 steering rack is a specific type of work that is provided either by specialized service stations or narrowly focused craftsmen. Our car service is able to apply many years of experience and successfully eliminate problematic moments in the work of the rail. Specialized workers with extensive experience and the necessary tools will quickly and efficiently get the vehicle back into working order.

For more complex problems, it becomes necessary to remove the rail completely, but this should not always be done. If possible, after conducting preliminary diagnostics, it is possible to eliminate the malfunction without disassembling the mechanism. It is likely that the rods, ball joints, bearings, and other units involved in the control process are out of order.

The service center contains a repair area. It performs the final diagnosis of the problem, if it has not been identified earlier. Problem components are repaired and replaced here. If there is no way to restore the rail, then it is recommended to follow the simple path, to replace it completely.

Oil seals and dust collectors are often installed independently by car owners, since this does not cause much work. Underestimating the problem, other malfunctions may occur, some parts are defective or are not cast evenly. So dust can seep, and then you will have to flush the system, if this did not cause significant harm.

If you wish, you can adjust the screw yourself, so the steering wheel will probably return to good condition. If there is no result, you still have to contact the service center.

As part of car maintenance, we will help to repair the steering rack of the Audi C4, but if it makes sense. A worn-out node is not always worth repairing, because with temporary treatment, you will still have to replace it in the near future.

The steering rack is one of the most important components of driving a car and should be given special attention. In case of observing extraneous manifestations from the site, it is better to play it safe and immediately seek help.

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