Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on a Chevrolet captiva

The rack and pinion assembly is a component mechanism of the steering unit of the machine. It allows you to change the position of the wheels by turning the steering wheel. When the vehicle is being driven, the rotation of the steering axle is converted into translational movement of the rack and pinion rod. Thanks to this design, the vehicle is controlled. This device has a complex structure and is driven by a hydraulic system and a distribution mechanism with a pump. Such a system works by using the power of the power plant.

1. Increased free wheel travel and the presence of its spontaneous rotation.
2. It takes a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel.
3. The appearance of dull distinct knocks during movement.
4. A hum in the front of the vehicle.
5. There is a loss of oily substance.
6. When moving, beats and vibrations of the steering element are felt.

• incorrect physical condition of the steering axle articulation;
• wear of the contact surfaces of the gear transmission of the shaft and stem;
• destruction of anthers and sealing materials;
• the appearance of working out on the surface of the rod rod;
• loss of performance by fasteners;
• faulty condition of the power steering pump bearings.

Diagnostics of the steering unit begins with placing the machine on the platform of the lifting device. Next, the technicians perform a visual inspection of the housing part of the rail, hydraulic lines with connecting fittings, the power steering pump and the distribution block. Thanks to these actions, it is possible to identify the existing problems in a timely manner.

Then the diagnosticians do an examination of the pumping unit for possible deficiencies. These manipulations are performed using a stethoscope. Testing activities are carried out with the engine unit running by listening to the hydraulic pump while it is operating. This allows you to identify extraneous noise during the technological cycle and fix the existing technical inconsistencies. Service mechanics also inspect the drive belt and pulley of the pumping part.

Next, measurements are taken of the amount of sagging of the belt and an assessment of its physical condition. In the event of cracks and delamination, the belt is discarded and must be replaced. The values ​​of the sagging of the belt drive are compared with the permissible limits. If the measurement results do not match the nominal values, the specialized technical personnel tightens the belt.

After that, the pressure of the oil fluid and its level in the reservoir of the power steering system are determined. To measure the compression indicators of the working substance, mechanics use a specialized manometric device. An oil sample is also taken to analyze it for the content of unwanted impurities and wear products. If the permissible standards for clogging of the working fluid are exceeded, it is replaced.

Reasons for possible shortcomings:

• rack axis corrosion;
• malfunction, slipping of the drive belt of the hydraulic pump of the amplifier;
• insufficient working fluid level.

To carry out repair actions, the wheels are dismantled and the levers with steering tips are disconnected. Next, the technicians give the fasteners and remove the rack and pinion device.Then it is loaded into a cleaning and washing apparatus to remove dirt, mechanical particles and oily deposits. Then the Chevrolet Captiva rail is fixed in a special device, and the adjusting screw for the stem clamp with a spring component is unscrewed.

After that, the spool valve with a torsion shaft and a toothed tip is removed. At the end of these works, the back plug of the stem is unscrewed with the release of the retaining rings and removal from the cylindrical body. Together with it, in the assembly, one gland comes out, the second part is removed from the body shell using a target removable device.

All composite aggregate units are placed in a container of equipment designed to clean the elements from possible contamination and foreign particles. After that, with the help of instrumentation, the degree of wear of the steering rack components is determined. After these works, mechanics replace unusable parts with original parts. The rod is installed on a lathe and its surface is ground. Then the assembly operations are carried out and the rail tightness is checked at a specialized stand. At the same time, the technical characteristics are determined and the final settings of the rack and pinion are performed.

An important point is to prevent unprofessional repairs to the steering unit. It is required to use the services of trusted service companies that guarantee qualified work. The safety of the driver, potential passengers and other road users depends on this. It is also recommended to exclude independent troubleshooting attempts to avoid additional breakdowns, they will not bring the expected result. A good material and technical base and professional technical personnel are required for high-quality performance of work.

The Chevrolet Captiva was first introduced to the public at the Geneva Motor Show in mid-2006. According to the manufacturer, this is an SUV - a SUV, a cross between a full-fledged jeep and a seven-seater minivan. To be convinced of the plausibility of the words, it is enough to read the data on the platform at the stand - the South Korean GM Daewoo. Of course, an SUV is out of the question. Despite such lightness and inferiority, the model has successfully survived two restyling in 2010 and 2013.

The geography of the sale of Captiva is not limited to one continent, but is spread, in the literal sense of the word, all over the world. In general, the car is good for the city limits, rich finish, the quality is also good. We even installed 19 "discs. Everything would be fine, only the undercarriage turned out to be weak, as for a SUV. The saying was attached to the car - little money and a lot of space.

Initially, you should be aware that all preventive and repair work should be carried out only at service stations. Such service stations must have specialized equipment and tools for conducting high-precision diagnostics, and in the future for carrying out repair measures at a competent level. Also, before contacting the service center, you should find out if the service station has certificates for carrying out repair work. Thus, you will avoid disappointment in the repair and "handicraft" intervention in your car.

"Symptoms" of machine malfunction:

• beating and vibrations when driving over a hill or driving over cobblestones;
• rudder wedge during left-right rotation;
• systematic creak;
• oily stains under the car in the power steering area;
• tightness and disobedience;
• when entering a turn at speed, there is a certain "wobble" of the wheel.

• uneven road surface. Perhaps the main reason for all the troubles of many cars.Regardless of whether it is a jeep or a passenger class, the chassis, including the Captiva steering rack, is systematically subjected to loads and tests that are beyond the capacity of every brand;
• violation of the terms of the technical inspection. Many are planning a trip after the start of suspicion of a breakdown in the next month, or even later. A special maintenance regulation has been developed on the territory of the CIS countries and Europe. The inspection interval may be exceeded, but only by 500 km, no more. Otherwise, the warranty for the hardware will be void;
• installation of non-original products during intermediate repairs. De facto, low-quality parts are not able to take care of for a long time. As practice shows, the average service life is 45-65% of the total life of the original spare part;
• the negative impact of the style and manner of driving the owner of the technical facility;
• manufacturing defects;
• poor-quality assembly at the service station.

First of all, you need to correctly diagnose the symptoms. In 37% of all requests, the "disease" of the car does not fundamentally coincide with what the owner says. As the saying goes, they came with one diagnosis and left with another.

If you are sure that the reason is in the steering, then order the "diagnostics and repair" service in our service station. The specialist will be able to accurately determine the list of works after a complete inspection and analysis of the malfunction. Often, a complete replacement is carried out only when there is third-party damage of a mechanical nature. For example, an accident or road accident, in other cases - partial repair.

During the dismantling work, all oil seals, seals, silent blocks are subjected to close inspection. They are directly related to car control, although they are not attached to the steering rack. Torsion rods and stabilizers should be added to the entire list. The condition of the seals should be systematically checked during the next maintenance, which is not always done. Since the main material of manufacture is rubber and a strong polymer, often the bushings must always be replaced. It is not recommended to leave worn consumables during maintenance. In parallel, the shaft rod on the steering shaft is examined. Sometimes, due to improper driving, the shaft splines are worn out. There is a knock, slippage when turning the steering wheel to the sides.

The masters of our center, like no one else, often encounter breakdowns in the chassis. In case of partial repairs, special attention should be paid to the condition of the guide worm, its edges, and the degree of wear. It is also important to check the condition of the rack itself and its gear mechanism. During sharp turns or turns from a place, the mechanism is especially susceptible to stress.

In the power steering itself, the check valve or gasket can be damaged when lubricant flows out. For the Chevrolet Captiva, steering rack repairs are not done as often. Other breakdowns are not typical for this model.

As the name implies, today I was engaged in repairing the steering rack shaft. As everyone already knows, Captiv has such a sore. And we started knocking the steering wheel. When cornering, when starting off. And this is not comme il faut. Such sensations that the steering rack is about to say goodbye (I thought about it at the very beginning, but calmed down, felt it with my hand and twisted the steering wheel, it became clear that it was a shaft) The repair methods on the drive were already painted, there is a syringe through which the oil is indicated and drove. Someone did not help at all and bought a new one. I went the other way - a complete analysis of the shaft and filling it with lithol. Bottom line, work - all extraneous sounds are defeated! Driving pleasure returned.

We throw off the wheel and unscrew the bolt that holds the shaft and rail. Then the bolts are unscrewed from the salon

Everything is dry under the anther. At the same time, we lubricate the cross.

We drill this thing here (I don’t know its scientific name. And we hammer in from the heart!

Partial oil change in power steering Chevrolet Captiva
Replacing power steering fluid Top Tec ATF 1800 in Chevrolet Captiva

Chevrolet Owners and Lovers Club

Hello to all.
In general, I had the same situation as others - when starting off there are small clicks, a crunch (two or three) regardless of the position of the wheels and another click-squeak when turning the steering wheel (left-right) in some steering position, but usually manifests itself if the steering wheel is even and you turn the steering wheel either to the left or to the right by 3-5 cm, which, as you understand, is annoying. this taxi gap is constantly in use.

The first sounds when starting off were eliminated by injecting the edshka between the shaft and the rubber band near the pedal (thanks to the forum).

I had to look for the source of the second click-squeak, I hear that somewhere in the steering wheel area, like plastic mask on plastic, somewhere clings. I disassembled the steering column, everything is beautifully done, there seems to be nothing to hook, there is also a click without covers, I thought it was inside, I put everything back together. the sound remained. Then I go and feel that the sound is somewhere very close, I started feeling everything, squeezing and using the poke method I found the source - it turned out that the rear left part of the steering wheel near the buttons walks a little and you can see it clicks on the video when you turn. Now I think what to think of, how to press or what to lay? Is it possible to sprinkle it with a vedeck there, or can you pour something? (rear bolt (screw) sits to the maximum)

Sedlex wrote: Hello everyone.
In general, I had the same situation as others - when starting off there are small clicks, a crunch (two or three) regardless of the position of the wheels and another click-squeak when turning the steering wheel (left-right) in some steering position, but usually manifests itself if the steering wheel is even and you turn the steering wheel either to the left or to the right by 3-5 cm, which, as you understand, is annoying. this taxi gap is constantly in use.

The first sounds when starting off were eliminated by injecting the edshka between the shaft and the rubber band near the pedal (thanks to the forum).

I had to look for the source of the second click-squeak, I hear that somewhere in the steering wheel area, like plastic mask on plastic, somewhere clings. I disassembled the steering column, everything is beautifully done, there seems to be nothing to hook, there is also a click without covers, I thought it was inside, I put everything back together. the sound remained. Then I go and feel that the sound is somewhere very close, I started feeling everything, squeezing and using the poke method I found the source - it turned out that the rear left part of the steering wheel near the buttons walks a little and you can see it clicks on the video when you turn. Now I think what to think of, how to press or what to lay? Is it possible to sprinkle it with a vedeck there, or can you pour something? (rear bolt (screw) sits to the maximum)

What if you try silicone spray?
It will not hurt the contacts, but will remove friction (and squeak, respectively).

Replacements archive: 94567345 95026279 95488647 96626520

If the rail is for a gasoline car, then it works for me too,
then I take. To be on the safe side, specify the distance between the centers
mounting holes. If everything goes well, then when sending, you can specify
warehouse number 1 in Yekaterinburg on Studencheskaya (I have to get closer, and they work here on Saturdays).
Nothing like this.

On Winstorm in the back of the C-100 (which is only diesel, because there are no gasoline cars of this class in Korea, and Winstorm is the name of this car in the domestic market of Korea until 2011) there are two types of rails:
95488653 - simple rail
95488654 - variable force rail (installed on machines of a richer configuration)

There is also Daewoo Winstorm Maxx in Korea, the same Antara (C-105 body).
On Winstorm Maxx, the rake goes exactly the same as on Antara, without dividing by numbers for the domestic market and for export. Plus they are all with variable effort. The number of this rail is 95488651.

Reiki on Winstorm and Winsstorm Maxx are different from each other.

But on Captiva there were many numbers of rails, all export numbers: 94567345 95026279 96626520. The last (final) rail number for Captiva is 95488647.

Thus, the rails are not divided according to the type of car engine - gasoline or diesel. But they are divided by body (C-100 or C-105) and by sales market (domestic market or export).

This is a correspondence on buying rake from Sowasalex. Today I went to the OD changed the rail, got up normally.
For replacement, wheel alignment and trash the car took 5,220 rubles.
They also said that there is a promotion from GM - they check the ABS and change the brakes,
it's free.

Good VIN
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Posts: 12

Location: TAGIL
Auto: CAPA
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Nikolay 44
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Is registered: 06.10.
Posts: 13

Location: Kostroma
Auto: Captiva 2.4MT
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Nikon_ButiC
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Is registered: 05.07.2012
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Is registered: 10.09.2012
Posts: 12

Location: TAGIL
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Nikon_ButiC
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Is registered: 05.07.2012
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1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove both front wheels.
3. Remove both outer fastening straps of the dust boots using
assembly tool KM-J-22610.
4. Cut and remove both inner mounting straps of the dustproof
covers.
5. Remove both dust covers from the steering box.
6. Unscrew the right outer track rod nut and
disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
7. Disconnect the right tie rod from the steering gear.

Hold the toothed rack carefully with a wrench (1) on the left
side to release the connection on the right side.

- Release the tie rod connection on the right side
(key 32 mm)

- Remove the tie rod from the toothed rack

8. Pull out the left side of the track rod as far as
it is possible.

Note: Make a hook (1), for example from a hexagonal pin
3 mm wrench made of hardened steel, sharpening the upper end.

- Turn the circlip (2) so that one end is
located on the bore (3) of the bushing.
- Start removing the circlip (2) with the hook (1)
on hole (3).
If necessary, use a screwdriver to facilitate removal.
retaining ring.

- install the bolt (1) (М8х30 mm) with the nut on the inner
the surface of the sleeve and expand it

- Slowly slide the feed dog from left to right to remove
bushing

12. Install a new bushing and retaining ring
13. Remove the left track rod

Use a spanner (1) to grip the rack carefully on the right
side to release the joint on the left side.

- Loosen the left side tie rod connection
- Disconnect the tie rod from the rack

14. Install the inner fastening clips

- Place both inner fastening clips on the steering body
mechanism

15. Install the tie rods

- Install the tie rods on both sides to
toothed rack
Tighten the tie rod joints to 100 Nm

16. Install dust covers

- Reinstall both dust covers and secure
their clamps
- Install the inner fastening clip of the dust cover with
using the assembly tool KM-J-22610

17. Install the right tie rod

- Connect the tie rod end to the steering
fist with self-locking nut
- Tighten the outer track rod nut to 50 Nm

18. Install both front wheels.

Good VIN
Private

Is registered: 10.09.2012
Posts: 12

Location: TAGIL
Auto: CAPA
Medals: No

Nikon_ButiC
Lieutenant general

Is registered: 05.07.2012
Posts: 2863

Location: Kazan
Auto: C140 LT D2.2 AT Placid Gray
Medals: 5 (more)

Good VIN
Private

Is registered: 10.09.2012
Posts: 12

Location: TAGIL
Auto: CAPA
Medals: No

Nikolay 44
Private

Is registered: 06.10.
Posts: 13

Location: Kostroma
Auto: Captiva 2.4MT
Medals: No

Semyon
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Is registered: 25.11.
Posts: 7

Location: Moscow
Auto: Opel Antara 2.0
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This is the first, the second I found guys who do it all for a very reasonable fee.

Serial Antara appeared in November 2006. Its "counterpart" - Captiva was introduced a month earlier. The cars are assembled on a single platform, the steering racks are structurally different, but they “knock” in the same way.

A typical story. A series of trips to the OD for explanations about the rake knocking does not bring a positive result; with a successful coincidence, they can replace the rack assembly, sometimes the right bushing, which ultimately does not change anything. The steering gear, which was quiet at first, reminds of itself again when driving on a dirt road.
For 3 years we have been working on the finalization of steering mechanisms, and in principle, we are not burdened by the unwillingness of manufacturers and dealers to ensure the silent operation of the steering rack. Welcome to the cinema.