Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on a Chevrolet Captiva

The rack and pinion assembly is a component of the steering unit of the machine. It allows you to change the position of the wheels when you turn the steering wheel. When the process of driving a vehicle is carried out, the rotation of the steering axle is converted into the translational movement of the rack and pinion rod. Thanks to this design, the vehicle is controlled. This device has a complex structure and is driven by a hydraulic system and a distribution mechanism with a pump. Such a system works by using the power of the power plant.

1. Increased free play of the steering wheel and the presence of its spontaneous rotation.
2. Turning the steering wheel requires a lot of effort.
3. The occurrence of deaf distinct knocks in the process of movement.
4. The appearance of a hum in the front of the car.
5. Oil loss is present.
6. When moving, beats and vibrations of the steering body are felt.

• incorrect physical state of the swivel steering axle;
• wear of the contact surfaces of the gearing of the shaft and rod;
• destruction of anthers and sealing materials;
• the appearance of wear on the surface of the rack rod;
• loss of performance of fasteners;
• faulty condition of the power steering pump bearings.

Steering unit diagnostics begins with the placement of the machine on the platform of the lifting device. Next, the technicians perform a visual inspection of the body of the rail, hydraulic lines with connecting fittings, the power steering pump and the distribution block. Thanks to these actions, it is possible to identify the present problems in a timely manner.

Then the diagnosticians do an examination of the pumping unit for possible shortcomings. These manipulations are performed using a stethoscope. Checking measures are carried out with the engine unit running by listening to the hydraulic pump during its operation. This allows you to identify extraneous noise during the execution of the technological cycle and fix the existing technical inconsistencies. Service mechanics also inspect the drive belt and pump pulley.

Next, the belt sag is measured and its physical condition is assessed. In the event of cracks and delaminations, the belt is discarded and must be replaced. The belt drive sag values ​​are compared with the allowable limits. If the measurement results do not match the nominal values, the relevant technical personnel tightens the belt.

After that, the oil pressure and its level in the power steering system reservoir are determined. To measure the compression ratio of the working substance, mechanics use a specialized manometric device. An oil sample is also taken to analyze it for the content of unwanted impurities and wear products. If the permissible limits of clogging of the working fluid are exceeded, it is replaced.

Reasons for possible deficiencies:

• rack axis corrosion;
• malfunction, slippage of the drive belt of the hydraulic pump of the booster;
• insufficient level of working fluid.

To carry out repair actions, the wheels are dismantled and the levers with steering tips are disconnected. Next, the technicians give the fasteners and remove the rack and pinion device.Then it is loaded into a washer to remove dirt, mechanical particles and oily deposits. Then the Chevrolet Captiva rail is fixed in a special fixture, and the stem pressure adjusting screw with the spring component is unscrewed.

After that, the spool distributor with a torsion shaft and a toothed tip is removed. Upon completion of these works, the rear plug of the rod is unscrewed with the release of the retaining rings and its removal from the cylindrical body. Together with it, one gland comes out as an assembly, the second part is taken out of the body shell using a target removable device.

All composite aggregate units are placed in a container of equipment designed to clean the elements from possible contaminants and foreign particles. After that, with the help of control and measuring instruments, the degree of wear of the component parts of the steering rack is determined. After these works, mechanics carry out the replacement of unusable parts with original parts. The rod is installed on a lathe and its surface is ground. Then assembly operations are carried out and the tightness of the rail is checked at a specialized stand. At the same time, the technical characteristics are determined and the final settings of the rack assembly are performed.

An important point is to prevent unprofessional repair of the steering unit. It is required to use the services of proven service companies that guarantee qualified work. The safety of the driver, potential passengers and other road users depends on this. It is also recommended to exclude independent troubleshooting attempts to avoid additional breakdowns, they will not bring the expected result. A good material and technical base and professional technical personnel are necessary for the high-quality performance of work.

Chevrolet Captiva was first presented to the public at the Geneva Motor Show in mid-2006. According to the manufacturer, this is an SUV - SUV, a cross between a full-fledged jeep and a seven-seater minivan. To be convinced of the plausibility of the words, it is enough to read the platform data on the stand - the South Korean GM Daewoo. Of course, that the SUV is out of the question. Despite such lightness and inferiority, the model successfully survived two restylings in 2010 and 2013.

The sales geography of Captiva is not limited to one continent, but is spread, literally, all over the world. In general, the machine is good for the city limits, rich finish, quality is also good. They even installed wheels on "19" inches. Everything would be fine, only the undercarriage turned out to be weak, as for an SUV. The statement was assigned to the car - little money and a lot of space.

Initially, you should know that all preventive and repair work should be carried out only at service stations. Such service stations should have specialized equipment and tools for high-precision diagnostics, and in the future for the implementation of repair activities at a competent level. Also, before contacting a service center, you should find out if the service station has certificates for repair work. Thus, you will avoid disappointments in the repair and "handicraft" intervention in your car.

"Symptoms" of a machine malfunction:

• beating and vibration during a collision with a hill or driving on paving stones;
• steering wheel wedge during left-right rotation;
• systematic creaking;
• oily spots under the car in the power steering area;
• stiffness and disobedience;
• when entering a turn at speed, a certain “wobble” of the wheel is felt.

• uneven road surface. Perhaps the main cause of all the ills of many cars.Regardless of whether it is a jeep or a passenger class, the chassis, including the Captiva steering rack, is systematically subjected to loads and tests that are not up to each brand;
• violation of the technical inspection deadlines. Many plan a trip after the start of suspicion of a breakdown for the next month, or later. A special maintenance regulation has been developed on the territory of the CIS countries and Europe. Exceeding the inspection interval is allowed, but only by 500 km, no more. Otherwise, the warranty for the hardware will be void;
• installation of non-original products during intermediate repairs. Poor-quality parts are de facto not able to nurse for a long time. As practice shows, the average service life is 45-65% of the total life of the original spare part;
• the negative impact of the style and manner of driving of the owner of the technical means;
• manufacturing defects;
• poor-quality assembly at the service station.

First of all, you need to correctly diagnose the symptoms. In 37% of all requests, the “disease” of the car does not fundamentally coincide with what the owner says. As they say, they come with one diagnosis and leave with another.

If you are sure that the reason is in the steering wheel, then order the “diagnostics and repair” service in our service station. The specialist will be able to accurately determine the list of works after a complete inspection and analysis of the malfunction. Often, a complete replacement is carried out only when there are third-party mechanical damage. For example, an accident or an accident, in other cases - a partial repair.

During dismantling, all seals, seals, silent blocks are subjected to close inspection. They are directly related to driving a car, although they are not attached to the steering rack. To the whole list should be added torsion bars and stabilizers. The condition of the seals should be systematically checked during the next maintenance, which is not always done. Since the main material of manufacture is rubber and a durable polymer, often the bushings must always be replaced. It is not recommended to leave worn consumables during maintenance. At the same time, the shaft stem on the steering is inspected. Sometimes, due to improper driving, the shaft splines wear out. There is a knock, slippage while turning the steering wheel to the sides.

The masters of our center, like no one else, often face breakdowns in the chassis. With partial repairs, special attention should be paid to the condition of the guide worm, its edges, and the degree of wear. It is also important to check the condition of the rack itself and its gear mechanism. During sharp turns or inversions from a place, the mechanism is especially subject to stress.

In the hydraulic booster itself, the check valve or gasket may be damaged when the lubricant leaks out. For Chevrolet Captiva, steering rack repair is not done so often. Other damage is not typical for this model.

As the name suggests, today I was engaged in the repair of the steering rack shaft. As everyone already knows, Captiva has such a sore. And we began to tumble the steering wheel. When turning, when pulling away. And it's not comme il faut at all. It feels like the steering rack is about to say goodbye (I thought about it at the very beginning, but after calming down, I felt it with my hand and turned the steering wheel, it became clear that it was a shaft) and drove. Some didn't work at all and bought a new one. I went the other way - a complete disassembly of the shaft and stuffing it with lithol. Bottom line, work - all extraneous sounds are defeated! Driving pleasure returned.

We throw off the wheel and unscrew the bolt that holds the shaft and rail. Then the bolts are unscrewed from the cabin

Everything is dry under the duster. At the same time, we lubricate the cross.

We drill out this thing (I don’t know its scientific name. And we hammer it from the heart! Everything superfluous will come out through the hole at the cross. We remove the excess and collect it in the reverse order.

Partial oil change in power steering Chevrolet Captiva
Power steering fluid replacement Top Tec ATF 1800 in Chevrolet Captiva

Chevrolet Owners and Fans Club

Hello to all.
In general, I had the same situation as others - when starting off, small clicks, a crunch (two or three) regardless of the position of the wheels, and another click-creak when turning the steering wheel (left-right) in some steering position, but usually manifests itself if the steering wheel is even and the steering wheel is turned either to the left or to the right by 3-5 cm, which, as you understand, is annoying. this taxi gap is constantly used.

The first sounds when starting off were eliminated by vedeshkoy by injecting the latter between the shaft and the rubber near the pedal (thanks to the forum).

I had to look for the source of the second click-creak, I hear that somewhere in the steering wheel area, like a plastic mask on a plastic mask, it clings somewhere. I dismantled the steering column, everything is beautifully done, there seems to be nothing to cling to, there is also a click without covers, I thought that inside, I put everything back together. the sound remains. Then I drive and feel that the sound is somewhere very close, I began to feel everything, squeeze it and found the source by poking - it turned out that the rear left part of the steering wheel near the buttons walks a little and you can see it clicks on the video when turning. Now I’m thinking what to come up with, what to press or what to lay? Is it possible to spray a vedeshka there or can I pour something? (rear bolt (screw) sits to the maximum)

Selex wrote: Hello everyone.
In general, I had the same situation as others - when starting off, small clicks, a crunch (two or three) regardless of the position of the wheels, and another click-creak when turning the steering wheel (left-right) in some steering position, but usually manifests itself if the steering wheel is even and the steering wheel is turned either to the left or to the right by 3-5 cm, which, as you understand, is annoying. this taxi gap is constantly used.

The first sounds when starting off were eliminated by vedeshkoy by injecting the latter between the shaft and the rubber near the pedal (thanks to the forum).

I had to look for the source of the second click-creak, I hear that somewhere in the steering wheel area, like a plastic mask on a plastic mask, it clings somewhere. I dismantled the steering column, everything is beautifully done, there seems to be nothing to cling to, there is also a click without covers, I thought that inside, I put everything back together. the sound remains. Then I drive and feel that the sound is somewhere very close, I began to feel everything, squeeze it and found the source by poking - it turned out that the rear left part of the steering wheel near the buttons walks a little and you can see it clicks on the video when turning. Now I’m thinking what to come up with, what to press or what to lay? Is it possible to spray a vedeshka there or can I pour something? (rear bolt (screw) sits to the maximum)

What if you try silicone spray?
It will not damage the contacts, but it will remove the friction (and the creak, respectively).

Replacement archive: 94567345 95026279 95488647 96626520

If the rail is on a gasoline car, it turns out it will suit me,
then I take. For safety, specify the distance between the centers
mounting holes. If everything goes well, then when sending, you can specify
warehouse No. 1 in Yekaterinburg on Studencheskaya (I get closer, and they work here on Saturdays).
Nothing like this.

There are two types of rails on the Winstorm in the back of the S-100 (which is only diesel, because there are no gasoline cars of this class in Korea, and Winstorm is the name of this car in the domestic market of Korea until 2011) there are two types of rails:
95488653 - simple rail
95488654 - variable force rail (installed on machines with a richer configuration)

There is also Daewoo Winstorm Maxx in Korea, the same Antara (C-105 body).
On Winstorm Maxx, the rake is exactly the same as on Antara, without being divided by numbers into the domestic market and export. In addition, they are all with variable effort. This rail number is 95488651.

The rails on the Winstorm and Winsstorm Maxx are different.

But Captiva had a lot of rail numbers, all export numbers: 94567345 95026279 96626520. The last (final) rail number for Captiva is 95488647.

Thus, the rails are not divided by the type of car engine - gasoline or diesel. But they are divided by body (S-100 or S-105) and by market (domestic market or export).

This is a correspondence on the purchase of rails with Sowasalex. Today I went to the OD changed the rail, got up normally.
For the replacement, alignment and garbage dump of the car, they took 5,220 rubles.
They also said that there is an action from GM - they check the ABS and change the brake system,
it's free.

Good VIN
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Nicholas 44
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Posts: 13

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Auto: Captiva 2.4MT
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Nikon_ButiC
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Nikon_ButiC
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1. Raise the car.
2. Remove both front wheels.
3. Remove both outer fastening straps of the dust covers using
mounting tool KM-J-22610.
4. Cut and remove both inner dust-proof clamps
covers.
5. To remove both dustproof covers from the case of the steering mechanism.
6. Loosen the right outer tie rod nut and
Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
7. Disconnect the right tie rod from the steering gear.

Carefully hold the toothed rack with a wrench (1) from the left
side to release the connection on the right side.

– release the tie rod connection on the right side
(key 32 mm)

– Remove the tie rod from the rack

8. Pull out the left side of the tie rod as far as
it is possible.

Note: Make a hook (1), e.g.
3 mm wrench made of hardened steel, sharpening the upper end.

– Turn the circlip (2) so that one end is
is located on the hole (3) of the bushing.
– Start removing the retaining ring (2) with a hook (1)
on hole (3).
If necessary, use a screwdriver to facilitate removal
retaining ring.

– install the bolt (1) (M8x30 mm) with the nut on the inner
sleeve surface and expand it

– Slowly slide the feed dog from left to right to remove
sleeve

12. Install new bushing and circlip
13. Remove the left tie rod

Carefully hold the toothed rack with a wrench (1) on the right
side to release the connection on the left side.

– Loosen the tie rod connection on the left side
- Disconnect the tie rod from the rack

14. Install internal fixing clips

– Place both inner fastening clips on the steering housing
mechanism

15. Install tie rods

– Set the tie rods on both sides to
gear rack
Tighten tie rod connections to 100 Nm

16. Install dust covers

– Reinstall both dust covers and secure
their clamps
– Install the inner fastening clip of the dust cover with
with mounting tool KM-J-22610

17. Install the right tie rod

– Attach the tie rod end to the swivel
knuckle with a self-locking nut
– Tighten outer tie rod nut to 50 Nm

18. Install both front wheels.

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Nikon_ButiC
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Registered: 07/05/2012
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Posts: 12

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Nicholas 44
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Posts: 13

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Auto: Captiva 2.4MT
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Semyon
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This is the first, second, I found guys who do all this for a very reasonable fee. (I was adjusted) If necessary, I will give a link through a personal.

The serial Antara appeared in November 2006. Her "double" - Captiva was introduced a month earlier. Cars are assembled on a single platform, the steering racks are structurally different, but they “knock” the same way.

Typical story. A series of trips to the OD for clarifications about the knocking of the rail does not bring a positive result, with a good combination of circumstances, they can replace the rail assembly, sometimes the right bushing, which ultimately does not change anything. Silent at first, the steering mechanism again reminds of itself when driving on a primer.
For 3 years we have been refining steering mechanisms, and in principle, we are not burdened by the reluctance of manufacturers and dealers to ensure silent operation of the steering rack. Welcome to the cinema.