In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair on a vaz 2108 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
We will show you how to repair the steering rack with your own hands in VAZ 2109 21099 2108 cars. A VAZ 2108 car arrived at the auto service with complaints about a knock on the steering rack. The master replaced the repair kit for the first time on this car, despite this everything turned out very quickly, after the repair the knock problem disappeared.
The video is in good quality, the repair process is shown in as much detail as possible, all actions and spare parts are explained. If you decide to repair the steering rack yourself, this manual will be of great help to you.
Video of the repair and bulkhead of the steering rack in the VAZ 2109 21099 2108:
VIDEO
There is nothing particularly complicated in this repair, the only drawback of this manual is that it does not show how the steering rack is removed and installed.
In cars of the VAZ 2109 brand, the steering rack is responsible for controlling the rotation of the wheels, converting the rotation of the steering wheel into a translational movement of the steering rod. Wear or breakdown of parts leads to an increase in backlash, as a result of which the car's handling deteriorates, the wear of automobile rubber from uncontrolled "yaw" increases, and the movement of the car itself becomes dangerous in multidirectional turns. The owner of a domestic passenger car will be able to repair the VAZ 2109 steering rack with his own hands, guided by this detailed instruction and the diagram of this unit.
The steering rack in a VAZ 2109 car has a simple design, which includes:
a toothed rack with two threaded holes for attaching the inner rod ends;
a drive gear with a splined shaft for connection to the steering clutch;
support half rings for smooth sliding;
stop mechanism that regulates the required design clearance of the gear pair;
a crankcase in which the parts are assembled and fixedly attached to the car body;
elements of sealing and protection against dust and dirt.
Video (click to play).
Symptoms of malfunctions in this control unit of a passenger car are:
knocking while making turns,
increased backlash,
tight rotation of the steering wheel,
wheel alignment problems.
Timely repair of the steering rack will eliminate all these faults and ensure the safety of driving.
To carry out repair work, you should purchase a repair kit, which, depending on the type of steering column malfunctions, may be incomplete or complete. An incomplete repair kit includes parts, disposable clamps and rubber products that require periodic replacement.
Repair kit steering rack VAZ 2108, 2109
In case of breakage or wear of the teeth and the ground surface, you will need to purchase a complete repair kit, which can include all parts, starting with a gear pair, needle and ball bearings, and ending with a pressure spring. This repair kit does not include only the crankcase.
You will also need a standard set of tools and a number of special fixtures and tools:
inner octagon 24 mm with a hole in the middle with a diameter of 18.5 mm;
octahedron 17 mm;
ball joint releaser;
puller for ball bearing;
key for removing the needle bearing;
needle-nose pliers for removing the bearing retaining ring;
locksmith vice;
"Fiol-1", "Litol-24" grease or similar lubricants that will not lose their fluidity at low temperatures.
To remove the steering rack, the VAZ 2109 car must be placed above the inspection pit to ensure free access to the front wheels and the engine compartment.
Then you should tighten the handbrake, rest the rear wheels, and put the front wheels straight. Raise the front wheels with a jack until they sag and support them. After that, unscrew the fastening nuts and remove the right wheel.
To access through the engine compartment, remove the air filter and disconnect the battery. All removable parts and fasteners must be put in a specially prepared container. This will ensure the safety of the parts and simplify the assembly process.
Steps for dismantling the steering rack:
After disassembly, the rubber elements should be inspected to determine their degree of wear. If they are not damaged and worn, they can be used again during assembly. Old parts should be replaced with new ones.
After that, you can disassemble the steering rack support mechanism:
Using a 17 mm octagonal wrench, unscrew the stop nut that adjusts the clearance of the gear pair, then during assembly it should be tightened so that a guaranteed clearance of about 0.12 mm remains;
Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining and sealing rings, the spring that presses the toothed rack through the stop to the gear and compensates for the appearance of a larger gap. The stop is removed when the crankcase is turned over with the hole down, if it does not fall out, you need to knock the crankcase on a wooden block clamped in a vice.
To disassemble the drive gear, again clamp the crankcase in a vice, removing the lock washer with an octagonal head 24 mm from it and unscrew the bearing nut.
A 14 mm open-end wrench must be inserted into the grooves on the spline shank, choosing a support that is convenient in height, then, using a wrench, like a lever, pull the drive gear together with the bearing. The toothed rack can then be removed.
When disassembling the gear with needle-nose pliers, open and remove the circlip, and push the roller out of the bearing with a puller.
If there is no puller, insert the pinion shaft down into the vise with a small gap, while the bearing should rest on the cheeks of the vise. Knock the roller out of the bearing by lightly tapping on the end face.
Octagonal key for disassembling the stop mechanism
If there is no key for removing the needle bearing and it is not possible to pull it out with a hook, you need to make a hole in the crankcase opposite the bearing end with a drill with a section of 1.2 - 2.0 mm and push the bearing out with a regular nail. After assembly, the hole should be filled with epoxy glue or cold welded.
If the wear of the working part of the steering rack is small, then it can be slightly tightened without complete disassembly, increasing its operational life by several tens of thousands of kilometers.
A 17 mm nut, which must be tightened, secures the steering shaft to the rack; to tighten the nut, you need to use a special wrench of the corresponding size. The process of adjusting the staff is as follows:
Place the car above a viewing pit or on an overpass for easy access to the steering gear;
Remove the crankcase protection;
Clean the rail from dirt;
Find the nut responsible for adjusting the mechanism;
Tighten the nut;
Check the resistance force by turning the steering wheel and, if necessary, tighten the nut more;
Adjust the steering effort to the optimum.
Pulling up without completely disassembling will eliminate tapping and remove a little play. With badly worn parts of the steering rack, you will need to completely disassemble and buy a complete repair kit to replace the worn parts of this unit.
If such procedures did not affect the negative effect of tapping the steering rack, you will have to go further and check the steering tips and tie rods. Often the knocking occurs precisely in these parts of the mechanism.
Lugs and tie rods can also cause knocking.In this case, it will be necessary to fully tighten the fastening of the rods and tips to eliminate backlash.
Tightening the tips should be carried out taking into account the following features:
Firm fixation of the entire mechanism to prevent camber displacement;
When tightening to the stop, do not overtighten;
After the tip bolts, check the camber-convergence;
If the knocking persists, then the problem is in the inner part of the rack, or in the steering rods.
You should also check the condition of the anthers of the steering rack every 500 - 1000 km, taking into account the operating conditions of the car. Replacing the boot on a Russian car has to be done more often than on foreign cars.
VIDEO
If tightening the steering rack and replacing anthers and rubber parts can be done independently, then repairing the fastening of steering rods in most cases causes difficulties for car owners. Time-consuming dismantling and the need to use special equipment force the owners of a Russian passenger car of this brand to turn to experienced specialists in a car service. It is better to carry out faultless diagnostics, disassembly and assembly of the unit in a specialized workshop with the help of qualified personnel. Complete replacement of worn-out steering rack elements can only be carried out in an equipped garage by an experienced driver with extensive practice in the repair of domestic cars.
Steering rack type VAZ 2108
On a vaz 2108, repairing the steering rack gives a lot of trouble to its owner. It all starts with the discomfort that the owner feels while driving. After this, flying around the stations, where you will find problems that you did not even suspect about, and maybe not at all. This work can be done with your own hands and without resorting to outside help. What will be discussed in this article.
In order to make repairs on time, it is necessary to identify malfunctions at the initial stage, which can lead to irreparable consequences. And they will facilitate the main work. After all, if the mechanism is wrong, then the further, the more parts that interact with it become unusable.
To determine a malfunction, you need to know how they manifest themselves. This can be seen in a number of symptoms. So:
When you hear a knock while driving, usually from the right side;
An increase in steering play is observed. The driver can immediately feel this by the wobbling at speed, and they are not so well controlled. And upon arrival at the station, it turns out that the alignment is badly done;
When you eat, you feel difficult to control and the steering wheel is tight. It seems to be eating it. This is also a signal to check the rail;
All of the above nuances serve as a reason for inspection and adjustment. A complete replacement is likely to be required.
Before making repairs, you need to know the structure and principle of the mechanism. Otherwise, it might not work. From the domestic classics, the VAZ 2108 is distinguished by a simpler and more reliable steering system. Let's see what the steering rack consists of:
Fits in the closed crankcase of the entire steering gear;
There is a steering gear, which is connected by an elastic coupling to the steering shaft;
The movement of the rack to the steering rods is transmitted by the connecting plate;
Brackets for fastening.
These are the main parts of the whole mechanism. In total, there are about forty of them. But the basics you need to know. The operation of this node is pretty simple. The rotation of the steering wheel transfers the force to the gear, which is carried out through the elastic coupling and the shaft. In turn, the gear moves the rack using a toothed connection. The wheel hubs are turned with the help of steering rods at the pivot connection.
Before doing the work, you should also know how to troubleshoot the problem. There are several of them:
Correction by adjustment, which allows you to get rid of backlash and help restore the mechanism to work for a certain period of time;
Purchase a repair kit and replace it. This should be done when the shaft is badly worn out and a simple adjustment cannot help to cope with this;
Complete replacement of the assembly, which is done, as a rule, when the integrity of the entire body is violated.
In the VAZ 2108 repair, the steering rack can be made on your own. To do this, you first need to prepare the tool and the necessary materials, which will be required during work.
Some things can be used in the garage, but some things have to be bought in addition:
Plastic clamps 200/4;
To wipe the parts, we need white spirit;
Grease is required to lubricate the bearings;
Rags, just do not take with a pile. He can only do harm when working;
What is the popularly called WD-shka. It is, in some cases, an irreplaceable liquid that will help remove parts damaged by corrosion and scale;
Also buy a can of Movili.
Now let's go through the instrument. Perhaps every motorist has such a set:
Socket heads in a set;
A handle that lengthens the heads, preferably with a ratchet;
Not everyone has it, but it is necessary, this is a puller that will allow you to remove the tips;
You will need a special wrench for the bearing nuts, it is made in the form of an octagon.
Caution: Before starting work, all connections should be treated with WD fluid. It is necessary to shed a couple of times an hour after processing the first. After that, you can not be afraid that the nuts will not loosen.
When everything is prepared, material and tools are purchased, you can start working. The most important thing here is not to rush, to do everything consciously and carefully.
To begin with, we install stops under the wheels. Raise and fix the handbrake;
We block the steering wheel. We de-energize the battery;
Jack the car and remove the wheels. But for this option, it is better to just put the car on supports. If, of course, there is an opportunity;
We loosen and unscrew the tip nuts, remove the fingers from the rack levers. In this case, a puller comes in handy. We apply it and tighten the screw all the way, then hit the lever with a hammer. We do it in moderation, we do not need to break it, we need to fix it. When we strike, hold the puller screw with a key;
Using a 13 key, release the steering gear
We unscrew the nuts of the clamps. We disconnected the battery so as not to get on the positive wire;
There is a bolt in the cabin that holds the left shaft, we unscrew it too. It is on the floor;
We pull the rail towards ourselves, and at the same time mix it, make oscillatory movements. The fact. that it will be difficult to separate the gear shank. But you should be patient and do it. After disconnecting, the rail is freely pulled out through the right hole;
We grip the element in a vice and clean it with a metal brush. After that, we moisten the rags in white spirit and wipe;
After complete cleaning of the surface, unscrew the bolts that secure the "mustache". Now we can check the state of the silent blocks. We immediately look at the presence of mechanical damage and backlash. If there is, then their replacement is required;
We remove the mustache, for this we bend the plate with a chisel and completely unscrew the bolts;
We remove the tabs from the ends of the rail, remove the cover. Remove the rubber bands from the shaft. The cover will definitely have to be thrown away, it is not a part that is applied twice. We wash and dry the rest of the parts thoroughly, do not put them in the sun;
Remove the bearing lock washer with a screwdriver. To remove the nut, you must use a special wrench;
We put gaskets on the jaws of the yew and clamp the splined shaft. Not hard, but gently tap with a hammer and remove the bearing, then the shaft and gears;
A two-armed puller will help to remove the bearing.
Again, wash all the removed parts in white spirit. The native bearing is not standard and it is rather difficult to acquire it, so mine is mine too. It rarely fails, so we remove it carefully;
We take out the gear rack from the body, release the clamping nut. We wash it, dry it;
We take out the plastic insert through the slot. It is rather difficult to remove, but do not worry, you can find a replacement in the repair kit. We take out the stop and replace the O-ring;
Now we examine the mustache. The appearance of the handpieces should be normal, without external damage. Please note that the movement must be carried out without backlash. If it is, then it should be replaced. When carrying out which the length of the lever should be observed. Promote the thread, this will prevent the formation of corrosion;
We do an inspection of the hinges. There should be no mechanical damage, if any, then replace it;
We put a new plastic sleeve, direct it with holes into the body. We do the trimming of the gum;
From the side of the gear, insert the rack. In this case, the distance from the body to the end should be maintained, it should be about 28mm. The rail itself cannot protrude outward;
Now we need to press in the gear and bearing, and at what to do it all the way. For this, the shaft together with the body must be clamped in a yew. Only it is necessary to press with feeling, and not with all the strength;
We insert the emphasis. Nut. Spring;
It is necessary to insert a new rubber ring from the side of the shaft. This can also be found in the repair kit. We tighten one more nut. We combine the marks and put on the lock washer, cover;
Now we put on a rubber ring and a cover. We tighten the clamps on the cover;
Installing the cover and securing it with a clamp
We do the installation of the mustache. We put on the washers on the hinges. It is necessary that there is a washer on both sides of the cover;
We install the plate after that the counter plate, tighten the bolts tightly. We fold the stopper plate. And we install rubber plugs.
VIDEO
Now, in order to install the rail in place, we need the shaft to fall into the hole in the body. We put on clamps, put on washers, bait nuts;
To carry out further work, it is better, of course, to resort to help. We need to align the ends of the steering shaft (from the passenger compartment), connect and align with the gear shaft. It is necessary for the coupling bolt to hit the right place on the shaft;
How we acquired all the details, we need to acquire a clutch. To do this, you need to tap with a hammer on the surface of the coupling, and gradually feed it deeper. The correct installation can be signaled by a signal that works. The clutch will work when a signal is heard;
We insert the bolt into the eye of the coupling and clamp it tightly enough;
We tighten the locknuts on the clamps. Treat the studs with Movil before installation;
We connect the levers of the struts with the steering tips. We tighten the nuts;
We connect the battery, attach the brakes and check their operation. We do camber and toe adjustment. For all the work, it will not take much time, about 4-5 hours. The price of spare parts will pay off. Everything can be seen in the photo and video of our site.
Attention: If you just need to change the boot, then this amount of work can be omitted. You do not need to remove the entire steering gear for this.
When the steering rack in the VAZ 2108 is repaired and everything is in place, the equipment should also be adjusted. So:
When checking, vertical play in the steering rods is not allowed;
The backlash should be adjusted on the steering wheel, and correspond to about 15 degrees;
The steering wheel should be light. There should be no snacks. The number of turns in different directions must be equal;
After turning the steering wheel, he himself must return to the previous position without assistance;
The next adjustment should be done after 500-700 km of run. But if problems arise earlier, then it should not be delayed.
Checking the gap between the rail stop and the nut
So the serious work has been done. But now you are confident in the steering of your car. Sometimes it is difficult to remove individual parts, but you should not give up. With new attempts, you are steadily getting closer to the desired result.
The steering rack in front-wheel drive vehicles is fully responsible for the functionality of the entire steering mechanism. The VAZ 2109 also belongs to this category. If it fails, you should immediately take appropriate action.
The appearance of signs of malfunction does not always indicate the need for a complete replacement of the unit. Sometimes it is enough to repair the rail using a special repair kit.
By means of the steering racks, the rotational movements from the steering wheel through the rack and pinion mechanism are transmitted to the pivoting levers, which rotate the front wheels by rods.
If you find one of the symptoms listed below on your car, be sure to carry out a full diagnosis of the condition of the unit, and then repair.
VIDEO
Signs of a defective steering rack include:
In the area of the rack, a grinding noise is observed during the rotation of the steering wheel;
The steering wheel periodically sticks;
Grease begins to flow from the seals;
The steering wheel is noticeably backlash.
These symptoms may also indicate problems in other parts of the steering mechanism, but before you have to check the condition of the rack, disassemble and decide whether to change or repair.
You will not be able to assess the current condition of the steering rack if you do not dismantle the device.
There is no optimal way to dismantle the steering rack, since the process in any case is associated with a rather laborious, long-term work involving the disassembly of many assemblies.
Suspend the front of the vehicle with a jack to be able to remove the front wheels. Be sure to carefully think over safety measures, put anti-scooters, shoes so that the machine does not budge during the repair of the rail.
Disconnect the gas adsorber, disconnect the wires and take them aside. This gives you full access to the steering rack.
Unscrew the bolt from the spline connection. Before doing this, be sure to align the wheels with the handlebar. The bolt is located near the pedals. To dismantle the fasteners, use a cardan head or a simple box wrench.
Remove any accumulated dirt from the tie rod mounting nuts, then unpin them using pliers. Unscrew the nuts using a spanner wrench.
With the help of a special puller, the rods are disconnected.
Next, unscrew the rods from the steering rack housing. However, experts recommend dismantling the crankcase with rods together, since in a vise the removal process turns out to be much easier.
When you release the rack, pull it out from under the car through the wheel arch. Strip, rinse and clamp in a normal vise.
Now you have a choice - completely replace the steering rack or try to repair it. The second option will take longer, but will save you an impressive amount of money.
VIDEO
The first thing you need to do your DIY repair is a repair kit. They are available at almost any auto parts store. However, we strongly recommend buying only high-quality kits so that the result of your self-repair will last as long as possible.
What is required for work
Recommended kits offered are incomplete and complete. You will definitely need the following kit components:
Needle bearing;
A pair of rubber bands for the sleeve;
Support sleeve made of plastic;
Set of gaskets;
Spring;
Retaining rings;
Support bearing;
Drive gear;
Anther cover;
Rail;
A set of zip ties for the boot.
VIDEO
Now that the kit is ready, the tools are available, and there is also enough free time, you can start working.
If there is no key for removing the needle
Self-repair of the steering rack allows you to significantly save on replacement, plus gain vast experience in performing far from simple work related to your VAZ 2109. But you can do it easier without risking by contacting a proven car service.
After completing the repair, you should not think that now the steering rack will serve tens of thousands of kilometers and will no longer cause you any trouble. As with many other nodes, the condition of the rail must be monitored periodically.
The steering rack gives a lot of trouble to the owners of front-wheel drive VAZs, often increased backlash in it, is a source of constant knocking and poor vehicle handling. Typical malfunctions of the steering rack without a power steering, on VAZ cars (2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112,2113,2114,2115, Kalina, Priora), are:
knocking when driving (mainly on the right side);
increased backlash of the steering wheel (as a result, the car wobbles at speed, the inability to set "camber-toe-in", the car drifts to the side);
"Biting" the steering shaft (difficulty with control, the likelihood of jamming the steering wheel on the go);
wear of the internal parts of the rail and so on;
There are several options for fixing the problem with the steering rack:
adjustment;
replacement of a repair kit;
replacement of the entire assembly;
The adjustment allows you to eliminate backlash, and for some time to restore the operation of the rail. In case of strong wear of the inner shafts, the adjustment cannot remove the backlashes ("tight steering wheel"), and it is necessary to change the repair kit. The entire steering rack is usually changed when deformation or damage to the integrity of the hull.
In order to remove the rail, you must:
raise the front and remove the wheels;
unscrew and remove the steering tips;
disconnect the steering shaft in the passenger compartment;
unscrew the steering rack mount and take it to the side;
To disassemble the steering wheel, you will need “special keys” (they are also used for adjustment).
You need to start with the following:
remove the steering rods (after marking or remembering the side);
remove the rubber boot and rubber tip;
unscrew the adjusting and thrust bushings and pull out the shafts;
remove the plastic sleeve from the inside of the case;
clean shafts, parts and housing from grease and dirt;
After disassembling and cleaning, it is necessary to make a "defect" of the parts, and determine the degree of replacement:
- the body is visually inspected. For chips, cracks, and so on;
- inspection of shafts for burrs, wear, scratches and the like;
After identifying the defective parts, you can start assembling:
- a new plastic sleeve is pressed in;
- new bearings are pressed in;
- shafts are inserted and assembled;
- liberally lubricated with a suitable lubricant (lithol, fiol, uniol)
- a preliminary adjustment is made (the adjusting sleeve is tightened to the stop, then loosened until the shaft can be turned by hand);
- put on and fix the rubber boot (preferably using a new one);
- install steering rods with tips without tightening them;
Repair of the steering rack VAZ 2108, 2109 (Video):
VIDEO
When installing the steering rack, you must remember the following conditions:
when the steering column is installed, the steering wheel must be in the center and have an equal number of revolutions in one direction and the other (slight deviations are allowed, they will be corrected at the "camber - toe" stand);
screw the rail to the body;
insert and tighten the steering tips;
put on wheels and lower the car;
stabilize the suspension and tighten the tie rods on the silent blocks;
After installation, the rail must be finalized. There should be no vertical play in the steering rack when checking the steering rods. The play on the steering wheel must be within the normal range (approx. 15 degrees). The steering wheel should rotate easily, without biting, with an equal number of turns in the side wallpaper.When driving and turning, the steering wheel should automatically return to its original position, without the assistance of the driver.
The next adjustment should be at the first 500 - 800 km of run, after repair.
Also, after repairs, it is necessary to check and adjust the wheel alignment angles. P.S If you did not manage to repair the steering rack yourself, then contact a professional car service for help.
Hello dear readers, today I will tell you how you can remove the steering rack from a VAZ 2109 car and repair the steering mechanism. It is advisable to do everything together, since it will be a little difficult for one to carry out the installation and dismantling of the steering rack in the future. And so, we go to the nearest auto shop and purchase a repair kit for the steering rack of a vaz, buy a corrugation for it, a ball bearing for the gear shaft and a Litol tube. If you do not have a special octagonal wrench for 17, then be sure to buy it, since you will need it in order to unscrew the rail stop nut, then you will also need tools for working with bearings, namely special pliers for mounting the retaining ring, and two-fingered bearing puller. I will not write about the standard set of keys, because every motorist simply must have it. In order to remove the steering gear without any problems, you need to use a viewing hole. After you have installed the car on the inspection hole, unpin the steering pin nuts, then press the fingers out of the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
we take the head on 13 and unscrew two nuts on each side, which press the steering mechanism to the car body.
We carefully take out the steering gear mounting brackets.
After dismantling the steering rack, it will be necessary to unscrew the bolts from the steering rods. To do this, you need a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel in order to bend the edges of the lock plate.
Remove the rubber support together with the spacer ring on the right side of the steering rack.
After unscrewing, remove the nut.
Take a flat screwdriver and remove the rubber boot from the gear.
After removing the boot, remove the lock washer.
We take a special octagonal wrench with a 24 head and unscrew the bearing fastening nut, by the way, the diameter of the inner hole for the gear shaft of the octagonal wrench must be at least 18.5 mm, this was written to those who do not have such a key, and in order not to buy something not that, then in the store.
And with dexterous movements of any of our hands, we unscrew the nut of the gear bearing.
... then remove the nut from the shaft.
Then we press out the needle bearing with a special wrench, if this is not available, then I will show you how to do without it. To do this, you need straight arms, two pieces that move at least a little, as well as a 1.5-1.2 mm drill and, accordingly, a drill. We drill a hole in such a way as to get to the end face of the bearing, as in the photo.
Now you need to thoroughly rinse the steering box housing and press in a new needle bearing from the repair kit. I usually cover the resulting hole from the drill in this way, mix super glue with metal sawdust and cover the hole with a match, or you can buy cold welding and cover it up, it will also keep fine. We lubricate the gear mechanisms with FIOL or Litol, for example, when I installed Litol-24, it is sold in tubes. And collect everything in reverse order. After everything is assembled, adjust the gap between the stop and the nut, which should be 0.12 mm.
Italian automakers were the first to install steering racks on cars at the end of the last century. After some time, it turned out that with this arrangement, the front-wheel drive suspension acquired only additional advantages.The rail is distinguished by its simplicity of design, reliability, ease and precision in control. Even if the steering rack of the VAZ 2109 is to be repaired, you will not have to make any supernatural efforts for this, including if you want to do it yourself.
It is these qualities that have become the reason for the emergence of an increasing variety of brands of cars with rack and pinion mechanisms, including domestic cars. Many of them are additionally equipped with electric or hydraulic amplifiers.
Possible wear and damage to parts leads to an increase in backlash, which, in turn, to a violation of controllability. Therefore, any defects, in addition to difficulties with driving, also affect the intensive wear of wheel rubber, moreover, it is also dangerous, especially during maneuvers when overtaking and cornering.
Incorrect operation of a modern steering mechanism often causes malfunctions, among which the following types are most characteristic:
strong vibrations and noises when driving;
difficult management, requiring a lot of effort;
increase in gaps at the joints;
the presence of tangible impacts on the steering wheel during collisions with minor obstacles;
uncontrolled change in the direction of movement of the machine.
All these unpleasant symptoms are evidence of existing faults in the control system.
If we take into consideration the existing two types of repair kits, one of them contains an incomplete supply of rubbing parts that need periodic replacement of rubber products and disposable clamps. In case of serious breakdowns, for example, wear of the rack teeth, it becomes necessary to purchase a complete repair kit. There is a complete list of parts, including a gear set, two types of bearings and a hold-down spring.
It is easier to do repair work if you know the principle of the functioning of all parts. By its design, the rail is extremely simple, it contains the following main elements:
directly the rail, which has two threaded holes, which serve as a place for fastening the inner ends of the rods;
drive gear and splined shaft connecting to the rudder clutch;
half rings responsible for soft sliding;
a thrust mechanism that adjusts the gap in the gear pair;
crankcase required for assembling parts and fixed attachment to the car body;
sealing and protective elements against contamination.
After disassembling and cleaning, the parts are troubleshooting and the importance of replacement is determined, including a visual inspection of the case for possible chips, cracks and other malfunctions.
Similar actions are performed when it is required to repair the VAZ 2108 steering rack.
Next, the shafts are inspected for the possible presence of burrs, the degree of their wear is determined, whether there are scratches, the bearings are checked. After identifying defective parts, they are replaced and assembled.
Taking into account that the location of the steering mechanism is the engine compartment, before starting work it is necessary to provide maximum access to it. For this purpose, the battery and air filter can be removed if necessary.
To remove the mechanism itself, you will have to unscrew the fastening bolts connecting the steering shaft to the gear: this action is performed from the inside of the car; the left and right steering rods are disconnected from the levers and the rack and pinion structure fastening to the car body is removed.
To make your task as easy as possible, you need to fix the rack casing in the yews, using soft gaskets. Next, the protective cap, boot clamps are removed, the nut, spring, retaining ring and other elements are removed.
After completing a complete disassembly, the parts need to be cleaned and washed, and the integrity of the bearings should be checked. If even a slight backlash is found, they must be replaced. Parts are assembled and installed in reverse order.
Below you can watch a video on how to repair the steering rack on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands.
Video (click to play).
VIDEO