DIY steering rack repair nissan bluebird

An indispensable element of the steering is a car steering rack. This part is present in almost all cars that are produced in modern times, including Nissan cars. It is the steering rack that ensures the rotation of the car's wheels due to the driver's influence on the steering wheel. Therefore, it is very important to know the probable causes of breakdowns, as well as how to tighten and repair the steering rack of a Nissan car.

There are three types of steering racks:

• The hydraulic rack is installed in almost all modern passenger cars. She is the most popular. The driver does not need to exert much effort to drive the vehicle because the power steering is hydraulic type.
• A simpler device is characteristic of a mechanical steering rack. The rudder drive is in contact with a gear rack, which in turn has contact with a gear mechanism located at one of the ends of the steering rack.
• The electric steering rack is fundamentally different from the previous two types. To increase the driver's effort, a separate electric motor is installed in the car.

Depending on the car model, the steering rack device is slightly different. It can be located at the top and bottom. In the first case, the rail is attached to the car body behind the engine, in the second case, the connection to the body is carried out by a beam or subframe.

The steering rack structure consists of the following elements:

The principle of operation of the hydraulic steering rack is to transfer power by means of a hydraulic device from the engine to the gear rack. The pressure in the power steering system creates a pump, which is attached to the engine and is driven by a belt feed. As a result of the pressure, the oil flows into the distributor.

There are special valves on the steering shaft that allow oil to pass into and out of the oil lines. A piston is installed on the toothed shaft. And depending on where the steering wheel is turned, the oil will press on one side and easily go into the power steering tank on the other.

Thus, with the engine running, you can turn the wheels in any direction without much effort.

Damage to the steering wheel is considered one of the most serious malfunctions in a car.

Consider the main symptoms of control faults.

• Typical knocks and beats in the steering rack of a Nissan car. The cause may be a weakening of the ball joint, wear of the steering shaft bearing or the steering rod end hinge.
• Increased steering play. It is possible that the steam-transmitting steering rod end joint is worn out, or the steering shaft bearing.
• The steering wheel is idling and does not turn. Often the cause is the usual clogging of the drive components. The second reason is a violation of the wheel alignment angle. Another possible option is a low level of hydraulic fluid.
• The steering rack is leaking in the Nissan car. Most likely, the anther of the steering linkage has worn out, as a result of which the tightness of the steering mechanism has broken. Also, the hoses may have been damaged or the fastening itself may be loosened.

The main reason for the failure of the steering system is the poor quality of the roads. Dusty streets and bumping bumps will have a rather negative effect on the car's control system, especially if the driver is not used to slowing down in front of bumps and pits on the roads.

It is also very important to follow the operating rules. It is necessary to use high-quality components, good working fluid, and regularly carry out maintenance of the car.

Some drivers leave their car in cold temperatures with the wheels inverted, unaware that this could damage the hydraulic steering racks. Failure to replace the hydraulic fluid in the power steering system will also contribute to rapid wear.

Professional diagnostics is carried out in three stages:

1. Initial inspection on the car. Such an inspection will exclude the likelihood of mistaking a chassis malfunction for a breakdown of the steering mechanism. During the initial diagnostics, the integrity of the hydraulic system, the color and level of the fluid in the tank, the condition of the worm gear, steering tips and rods are checked.
2. Diagnostics of the removed unit in a vice in order to identify knocks and backlash. The support sleeve is checked for play, the steering rod apples are inspected for rust.
3. Detailed inspection of the steering rack for defects (troubleshooting). The rack is completely disassembled, and each mechanism and element is subject to inspection in order to understand the feasibility of replacing the steering rack for Nissan.

Only after all the stages of diagnostics have been carried out, it is possible to accurately determine the state of the vehicle's steering system and, accordingly, decide what would be more correct - to repair the rail for Nissan Almera, or to replace the steering rack.

You can adjust the steering rack in a Nissan car yourself. But it is important to understand that due to the fact that the condition of the rack and pinion is not known without complete disassembly, the tightening may not solve the problem with backlash.

The adjustment is carried out by tightening the adjusting screw, which is located in the end cover of the steering gear. You will need a pit or overpass. In an extreme case, a jack will do, but in this case, for safety reasons, you must not forget to additionally strengthen the car after lifting it. When using jacks, the front wheels should be straight.

Using a backlash meter, you need to measure the backlash of the steering wheel. The indicator should not be higher than 10 degrees.

The adjusting screw should be tightened very slowly, regularly checking the steering wheel travel and the presence of knocking in the column or the presence of play.

After the work is completed, it is imperative to conduct a running test. During the movement, the steering wheel should move smoothly. If there is "heaviness", the adjusting screw must be slightly loosened.

The adjustment is correct if the knocking and play have disappeared and the steering wheel smoothly rotates to the center position.

Repair of the steering rack of Nissan Primera, Almera and Qashqai cars is carried out approximately according to the same principle. Work begins with a complete disassembly of the rail itself. First, the anthers and joints of the steering rods are removed. After that, the distributor mounting bolts are removed from the steering rack housing. Then, by unscrewing the clamp nut, you need to remove the spring and clamp.

The distributor in the housing is removed from the rail, after which it is removed from the housing and the oil seal and bearing are knocked out.

Next, you need to remove the back plate from the steering rack and remove the stem. The left stem seal can be removed using a puller.

The bearing is removed from the distributor, the centering sleeve is removed from the back. At the end, the oil seal is removed.

All parts are thoroughly washed and treated with special degreasing agents in order to get rid of dust, sand, dirt and waste oil. You can use a special steering rack repair kit for Nissan Almera.

Then you need to grind the rod and the distributor neck to a mirror surface.

All internal elements (O-rings, retaining rings, bushings, etc.) must be replaced with new ones. Replacing the steering rack oil seals of a Nissan car is also required. The shafts and the housing remain.

After the new components are selected, the steering rack can be assembled.

Using a mandrel, you need to press the upper gland into the distributor housing. The bearing is pressed in in the same way. The distributor is coated with a special grease, and it is placed in a housing, which is also pre-lubricated.

A new left stem oil seal is pressed in. The comb of the stem is coated with grease, and the stem is returned to the steering rack housing. It is necessary to apply grease to the distributor worm and, placing it in the housing, install it in place. The rod clamp is returned.

The spring is filled with grease, put in place and the nut is pulled.

The steering rack bushing of the Nissan should be installed in the rear panel. A new oil seal is pressed in. An O-ring is put on it, and the oiled back is returned to its regular place.

When the steering rack is assembled, you can install it on the car, add oil and bleed the system.

Here are some tips from experienced drivers to help keep your car's steering system in good working order.

• Make sure that the protective boots are in good condition.
• Do not keep the steering wheel in its most extreme position for more than 5 seconds.
• In winter, when leaving a parking place, do not turn the steering wheel right after the engine has warmed up. First, turn the steering wheel in gentle, short strokes to warm up the oil in the power steering system.
• Contact only reliable, proven service stations. If possible, personally supervise the process of servicing the car. Often, after adjustment, mechanics forget to tighten the loosened boot clamp. Even more often, they do the work with dirty hands. Namely, dirt and sand can spoil the steering rack in just a few days.

Cat squirrel

Group: Users
Posts: 121
Registration: 17.6.2013

Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking at the steering
reike - decided to unequivocally Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed
I found out for myself:

1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right!
2. If the car is under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.)
3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money is almost down the drain)
4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but can afford it.
And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.

Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing
racks, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans
DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. X Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) wheel they have
everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. - and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part.
Installed if you look at
a lot, including Note. I ordered this sleeve at my own risk and peril 48128-ED00A.
1.5 waited, arrived.

Like everything, the silence passed, super.
If you have any questions, I will answer.
Later pictures.

Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16

Thumbnails of attached images

Good day to all. It all started with the appearance of a leak in the area of ​​the upper oil seal of the steering rack. Having climbed the sites, I came to the conclusion that no one could understand such a rake like mine. The book describes only one option for parsing the steering rack.

Well, it was decided to do it myself, since the servicemen are asking for a lot of money. Only for the type of complete disassembly is about 8 rubles, + remove, put about 3 rubles. And besides it will be necessary to collapse + slurry + oil seals. In short, he decided.

Upper oil seal, steering repair kit, both insulators (well, these rubber bands on the rail) were ordered, but only the one under the clamp came. and the central one waited a month and then they removed the order. Steering rods, steering tips.

But! The repair kit from the article on repairing a rail of another option does not fit this rail. Who will do check the catalog. I met a lot of repair kit numbers and all are different.

The task was difficult, I do not have a wide garage to take out the rail, well, there is a meter, maybe 1.2 and everything. And the hell knows how to get it out.

I came to the conclusion that everything will work out if you first twist the steering rods, and then it will be easier without them.

On that and decided. We take off the wheels, put the car on stumps. We throw off the levers. From the ball you can not unhook let it hang. In short, we remove the thrust with the tip was described in detail in the article I will say the second time to shoot much easier and faster. If the assistants are good, if not, then it's not critical, I did everything alone.

Further, as it is written everywhere, you need to unscrew the tubes. But they didn’t get out of my way. And one that unscrewed, he was screwed in place with the tube, bending it, the nut on the tube should go, and she bit the tube with me. So unscrewing it was not an option. Without breaking anything, since the repair of the tubes with haemorrhoids unscrewed the hose from the gur pump. Goo immediately poured over me. And what to do, I prepared the container, but everything poured out on me)) There's just nothing to substitute.

So this tube remained on the rail. Then I unscrewed it by rotating a tube with a pipe and a pressure sensor.

The second pipe just took off the clamp and pulled it off

The bottom photo shows the high pressure hose removed from the compressor. There a bolt and two copper washers on both sides are not passable, I did it but found it) At the place where the hose is attached to the compressor there are two thin pipes, we also remove them.

At the end of this hose is a sensor that is attached to the body. We throw off the connector and remove the bracket. All now the rail can be removed by unscrewing three bolts and a cardan from the regulator. Two standard and one 15 cm extension cords coped with this task with a bang.

It's just not convenient to tinker with cardanic. But everything is real, I got it just with a spanner. I did not remove it from the axis in any way until I parted it with a screwdriver. Pay attention the SECTION of the cardan coincides with the mark on the cover. This fact will come in handy during assembly.

Damn you all know that it was the sun to unscrew the fotik did not take these bolts when there was a shadow over the car. ))

Now we take it out. I came out easily into the right arch, as without steering rods. And it turns out that if it were up to the wall and half a meter would still come out.

(the rail is washed, moved and ready for installation, but it also looks dirty when the current is extracted)

Then I unscrewed this tube with a branch pipe and a sensor, rotating everything in place around the rail. Because it will get in the way. Then I also screwed it up before installing.

rail in netral. Then we raise the cap upwards and transfer the risk from the cap to the shaft, which will be very useful when assembling and exposing it. Thus, now from all sides the same length of the stem overhang, two marks are native, and our new one is combined!

Remove the cap, see the retaining ring and remove it

We turn the river unscrew the lid the photo missed sorry, and by that time our hands were in the shit.

We see the nut, unscrew it by 18 and knock out the regulator.

We see the oil seal, then we will replace it, it is not difficult there, when assembling, put on and knock with the head through the old oil seal. I immediately removed the regulator and forgot to take a picture of it, well, I think it's not critical.

I also forgot to take a photo, from the back of the regulator there is a nut and a nut, behind them is a spring with an emphasis milled under the rail. We unscrew this case and take out. Responsible for sliding the rail. Just mark this crouton where the top is where the bottom. And also put back when assembling.

Next, we clamp the rail, drill it out. Probably need to drill deeper. And then my thread was worn, when unscrewing, and when the new cover was tightened, there were also problems.

Unscrew the nut with a wrench 41

Now the task is to remove the most important part and replace the oil seals there. I had to knock out. Knock out to the side where they unscrewed. I recommend everyone to keep a book in front of you so as not to confuse, or sheets from a book, or a laptop, as I did. I already knocked on another, it does not work. Spat turned the rail over the drilled part to the top. And what about the floor as cunt @ nyL.Came out immediately.

But that's not all there was one gland and a ring. In short, you also need to knock it out. I put the head on the extension cord, wrapped it with a rag and then knocked it out. But not for the first time, since where the diameter of the entry is less than that of the part where the oil seal is and it just flew by with the oil seal. Then I first stuffed a piece of rags and then pushed with my head, the rag pressed tightly and squeezed out. But there also had @ nyT pussy.

Then we put the oil seal ring on the stem, grease it with slurry and push it in, and tap it. In the book, cellophane is used to put on the oil seal, I put it on so neatly. Spring to the middle. Well, in general, how it was and we are

We knocked on the stem further, do not take it out, put the second oil seal and tighten the cover. Then we put back the regulator itself, but we need to set everything according to our marks. For those who took the risk on the regulator there will be no problems for 5 minutes and that's it. Then we tighten this crouton with a spring. I deliberately made myself a little tighter, otherwise the steering wheel turned too easily. There is a process in the book. I did it by eye and that's it.

Then we change the rubber band insulator

We put the rail back, put the pipe in place, put the sensor, connect it. We pour the slurry into the gur, start it up. We try, and so on.

Thank you all for your attention, there are a lot of mistakes, because I write quickly, otherwise I will not have time!

Replacing the tips of the steering rods. Replacing steering rods
Replacement of anthers of a steering rack on Nissan

(Works were carried out on Nissan Cefiro)

• Vehicle suspension diagnostics have identified worn out steering tips or tie rods on your Nissan
• If you shake the steering rod directly on the car, you can feel a beating or even knocking (severe wear)
• When driving on small bumps (for example, gravel), a constant, not very dull knock is heard.

You will need:

• Keys, screwdrivers.
• Ratchet head set.
• Jack and a couple of chocks.
• Some kind of rug or large climbing rag near and under the car.
• Tie rod puller.
• New spare parts.
• Long, narrow, rather stiff pin (at least half a meter long). Will be shown in the photo.
• One assistant, or additional 2 long and strong arms.

We start repairing Nissan.

To carry out the entire procedure, you will need at least some set of tools, it will be most convenient with a ratchet and heads, as well as a pair of keys.

To begin with, I will describe the procedure for replacing the tips of the steering rods and anthers of the steering rack:

[If you change the rods and then the tips are not removed. ]

We turn the steering wheel, so that the steering rack is extended to the maximum towards you. We install a puller for steering tips (if necessary, knock it under the tip with a hammer) [top photo]. After installing the puller, we tighten the nut on it, periodically tapping with a hammer on the lower part of the puller [what to tighten on the top photo, where to beat on the bottom]. Having performed such a non-tricky action, the tip will be removed.

The tip is screwed onto the steering rod and fixed with a nut on it. At the same time, there are turnkey edges on the steering rack itself and the steering tip. Holding the steering rack or steering tip with one key, unscrew the nut fixing the tip with the second. After being torn off, we do not rush to unscrew it (since you will still have to go to the geometry after such a procedure), fixing the steering rod from scrolling with a key, unscrew the tip counting the revolutions (a new tip should be wound on the steering rod the same number of revolutions). If the steering rack boot is not torn, not in solid oil and generally looks normal and does not require replacement, we put everything back. If you need to replace it, first remove the small clamp, then the large (distant) clamp, take out the old boot. I want to warn you that large clamps with a boot are not quite comfortable when tightening, so it will be much more convenient to buy clamps tightened with a screwdriver (there is very little space for tightening, but all this is doable under the car).It will also be quite problematic to pull the boot to a larger seat. But after trying everything will work out. If you are going to change the steering rod, then read on without collecting.

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.

WD40

1. Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
2. Tip remover.
3. Hammer and thin screwdriver.
4. Liquid key.
5. Rags.
6. Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

1. Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
2. We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

• We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
• We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
• The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
• When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..