Do-it-yourself steering rack repair nissan bluebird

An obligatory element of a steering is the automobile steering rack. This part is available in almost all cars that are produced in modern times, including Nissan cars. It is the steering rack that ensures the rotation of the wheels of the car due to the influence of the driver on the steering wheel. Therefore, it is very important to know the probable causes of breakdowns, as well as how to tighten and repair the steering rack of a Nissan car.

There are three types of steering racks:

• The hydraulic rack is installed in almost all passenger cars of our time. She is the most popular. The driver does not need to make much effort to drive the car, since the hydraulic type power steering is used.
• A simpler device is characteristic of a mechanical steering rack. The steering drive is in contact with the rack, which, in turn, is in contact with the gear mechanism located at one end of the steering rack.
• The electric steering rack is fundamentally different from the two previous types. To increase the efforts of the driver, a separate electric motor is installed in the car.

Depending on the model of the car, the steering rack arrangement is slightly different. It can be top and bottom. In the first case, the rail is attached to the car body behind the engine, in the second case, the connection to the body is carried out by a beam or subframe.

The design of the steering rack consists of the following elements:

The principle of operation of the hydraulic steering rack is to transfer power using a hydraulic device from the engine to the rack. The pressure in the power steering system is created by a pump that is attached to the engine and is driven by a belt feed. As a result of the pressure, the oil passes into the distributor.

There are special valves on the steering shaft that allow oil to pass into and out of the oil lines. A piston is installed on the toothed shaft. And depending on where the steering wheel is turned, the oil will press on one side and go into the power steering tank on the other without any problems.

Thus, with the engine running, you can turn the wheels in any direction without much effort.

Steering failures are considered one of the most serious problems in a car.

Consider the main signs of control failures.

• Characteristic knocks and beating in the steering rack of a Nissan car. The reason may be loosening of the ball joint, wear of the steering shaft bearing or the tie rod end joint.
• Increased steering wheel play. It is possible that the tie rod end joint that transmits steam has worn out, or the steering shaft bearing has worn out.
• The steering wheel rotates idly, while turning is not performed. Often the cause is the usual clogging of drive parts. The second reason is the violation of the angle of the wheels. Another possible option is a low level of hydraulic fluid.
• The steering rack is leaking in a Nissan car. Most likely, the tie rod boot was worn out, as a result of which the tightness of the steering mechanism was broken. Also, the hoses may have been damaged or the mount itself has loosened.

The main reason that the steering is out of order can be considered the poor quality of the roads. Dusty streets and shaking on bumps will have a rather negative effect on the car's control system, especially if the driver is not used to slowing down in front of potholes and pits on the roads.

It is also very important to follow the rules of operation. It is necessary to use high-quality components, good working fluid, and regularly carry out vehicle maintenance.

Some drivers leave their car in cold weather with the wheels turned out, not even knowing that this can damage the hydraulic steering racks. Untimely replacement of the hydraulic fluid in the power steering system will also contribute to rapid wear.

Professional diagnostics is carried out in three stages:

1. Initial vehicle inspection. Such an inspection will exclude the possibility of mistaking the running gear for a breakdown of the steering mechanism. During the initial diagnostics, the integrity of the hydraulic system, the color and level of liquid in the tank, the condition of the worm pair, steering tips and traction are checked.
2. Diagnostics of the removed unit in a vice in order to identify knocks and backlashes. The support sleeve is checked for play, the steering rod apples are inspected for rust.
3. Detailed inspection of the steering rack for defects (troubleshooting). The rack is completely disassembled, and each mechanism and element is subject to inspection in order to understand the feasibility of replacing the steering rack for Nissan.

Only after all the stages of diagnostics have been carried out, it is possible to accurately determine the state of the car's steering system and, accordingly, decide what would be more correct - to repair the rack for the Nissan Almera, or to replace the steering rack.

You can adjust the steering rack in a Nissan car yourself. But it is important to understand that due to the fact that the condition of the rack and pinion is unknown without complete disassembly, tightening may not solve the backlash problem.

Adjustment is carried out by tightening the adjusting screw, which is located in the end cover of the steering mechanism. You will need a pit or overpass. In extreme cases, a jack will do, but in this case, you must not forget to additionally strengthen the car after lifting it for safety reasons. When using jacks, the front wheels should be set straight ahead.

With the help of a backlash meter, you need to measure the backlash of the steering wheel. The indicator should not be higher than 10 degrees.

The adjusting screw should be tightened very slowly, regularly checking the steering wheel travel and the presence of a knock in the column or the presence of play.

After the work is completed, it is necessary to conduct a sea trial. The steering wheel should move smoothly while driving. If there is "heaviness", the adjusting screw needs to be slightly loosened.

The adjustment is correct if the knock and play have disappeared, and the steering wheel rotates smoothly to the center position.

Repair of the steering rack of the Nissan Primera, Almera and Qashqai cars is carried out approximately according to the same principle. Work begins with a complete disassembly of the rail itself. First, the anthers and tie rod joints are removed. After that, the distributor mounting bolts are removed from the steering rack housing. Then, unscrewing the clamp nut, you need to remove the spring and clamp.

The distributor in the housing is removed from the rail, after which it is removed from the housing and the stuffing box and bearing are knocked out.

Next, you need to remove the butt plate from the steering rack and remove the stem. The left stem seal can be removed using a puller.

The bearing is removed from the distributor, and the centering sleeve is removed from the back. At the end, the gland is removed.

All parts are thoroughly washed and treated with special degreasers in order to get rid of dust, sand, dirt and used oil. You can use a special steering rack repair kit for the Nissan Almera.

Then you need to grind the rod and neck of the distributor to a mirror surface.

All internal elements (sealing and retaining rings, bushings, etc.) must be replaced with new ones. Replacing the steering rack oil seals of a Nissan car is also required. The shafts and body remain.

After the new components are selected, the steering rack can be assembled.

Using a mandrel, you need to press the upper oil seal into the distributor housing. The bearing is pressed in the same way. The distributor is lubricated with a special grease, and it is placed in a housing, which is also pre-lubricated.

A new left stem seal is pressed in. The rod comb is lubricated with grease, and the rod is returned to the steering rack housing. It is necessary to apply grease to the distributor worm and, placing it in the housing, install it in place. The stem clamp returns.

The spring is filled with grease, put in place and the nut is attracted.

The steering rack bushing of the Nissan car should be installed in the buttstock. A new seal is pressed in. An o-ring is put on it, and the missed butt plate returns to its regular place.

When the steering rack is assembled, you can install it on the car, add oil and bleed the system.

Here are some recommendations from experienced drivers that will help keep your car's steering system in good condition.

• Keep the protective boots in good condition.
• Do not hold the steering wheel in the most extreme position for more than 5 seconds.
• In winter, when leaving a parking space, do not turn the steering wheel immediately after the engine has warmed up. First, turn the steering wheel in smooth short movements to warm up the oil that is in the power steering system.
• Contact only reliable, proven service stations. If possible, personally supervise the process of car maintenance. Often mechanics forget to tighten a loose boot clamp after adjustment. More often than not, they do the work with dirty hands. Namely, dirt and sand can ruin the steering rack in just a few days.

cat squirrel

Group: Users
Posts: 121
Registration: 17.6.2013

Good afternoon, evening, maybe morning! After reading the entire forum, in terms of knocking on the steering
rail - I decided unambiguously to Solve this Problem once and for all with one repair and little bloodshed
Found out for myself:

1. Tighten, tighten - the knock remains on the right!
2. Car if under warranty - of course, the road to the Dealer (and after 100,000 - WHAT.)
3. Replacement of steering rods, tips, etc. does not solve this problem. (money almost down the drain)
4. Repair in specialized services - as anyone, but it can afford.
And so on and so forth. Okay lyrics aside. Now the crux of the problem.

Everyone already knows that the knock on the right comes from the wear of the support sleeve inside the steering housing
rails, as a result of this, the rack shaft begins to play. This bushing as a spare part for our Europeans
DOES NOT EXIST (mother and. x Japs). BUT, BUT. for their loved ones with the right (Japanese) steering wheel they have
everything is separate, and steering rods, etc. – and of course THIS BUSHING is supplied as a spare part.
Installed if you look at
many places, including on Note. I ordered this bushing at my own risk. 48128-ED00A.
1.5 waited, arrived.

Everything seems to be quiet, super.
There are questions, I will answer.
Pictures later.

Post has been edited partaz1975 – 9.11.2013, 15:16

Thumbnails of attached images

Good day to all. It all started with the appearance of a leak in the area of ​​​​the upper steering rack oil seal. Having climbed the sites, I came to the conclusion that no one dismantled such a rail like mine. The book describes only one option for parsing the steering rack.

Well, it was decided to do it yourself, since servicemen ask for a lot of money. Only for the type of complete disassembly is about 8 rubles, + remove to put about 3 rubles. And besides it will be necessary to collapse + slurry + seals. In short, I decided.

Upper seal, steering repair kit, both insulators (well, these rubber bands on the rail) were ordered, but only the one under the clamp came. and the central waited a month, then they canceled the order. Steering rods, steering tips.

But! The repair kit from the article on rail removal of another option does not fit this rail. Who will do check the catalog. I met a lot of repair kit numbers and all are different.

The task was difficult, I don’t have a wide garage to take out the rail, well, there is a meter, maybe 1.2 and everything. And how to pull it out, hell knows.

I came to the conclusion that everything will work out if you first twist the tie rods, and then it will be easier without them.

On that I decided. We remove the wheels, put the car on stumps. Let's drop the levers. You can not unhook from the ball joint, let it hang. In short, we remove the thrust with the tip, it was described in detail in the article, I will say that it is much easier and faster to remove it the second time. Assistants, if they are, then it’s good if not, then it’s not critical, I did everything alone.

Further, as it is written everywhere, it is necessary to unscrew the tubes. But they didn't work out for me either. And the one that unscrewed, he turned in place with the tube, bending it, the nut on the tube should go, and she bit the pipe with me. So turning it off was not an option. Without becoming to break anything, since the repair of tubes hemorrhoids unscrewed the hose from the gur pump. Immediately, the goo poured on me. And what to do, I prepared the container, but everything poured out on me)) It's just not to substitute anything there.

So this tube is left on the rail. I then unscrewed it by rotating the tube with a nozzle and a pressure sensor.

The second pipe just removed the clamp and pulled it off

The lower photo shows the high pressure hose removed from the compressor. There’s a bolt and two copper washers on both sides, I didn’t do it, but I found it) At the place where the hose is attached to the compressor, there are two thin pipes, we also remove them.

At the end of this hose is a sensor that is attached to the body. Disconnect the connector and remove the bracket. All now the rail can be removed by unscrewing the three bolts and cardan from the regulator. Two standard extensions and one 15 cm did the job with a bang.

With cardan tinkered just not convenient. But everything is real, I got it just a ring key. I didn’t remove it from the axis in any way until I pushed it apart with a screwdriver. Pay attention to the CUT of the cardan shaft coincides with the mark on the cover. This fact will come in handy when assembling.

Damn, you all know that the sun was unscrewing the fotik did not take these bolts when there was a shadow over the car. ))

Let's all take it out. Came out easily in the right arch, as without tie rods. And it turns out that if there were half a meter to the wall, it would still come out.

(the rail has been washed and moved and is ready for installation, but it also looks dirty when the current is removed)

Then I unscrewed this tube with a nozzle and a sensor by rotating everything in place around the rail. Because it will interfere. Then also Twisted before installation.

rail in neutral. Then we raise the attention to the cap up and transfer the risk from the cap to the shaft, it will be very useful when assembling and setting the neutral. Thus, now the stem length is the same on all sides, two marks are native, and our new one is combined!

We remove the cap, we see the retaining ring, we remove it and

We turn over the river, unscrew the lid, I missed the photo, sorry, and by that time my hands were already in shit.

We see the nut, unscrew it by 18 and knock out the regulator.

We see the stuffing box and then we will replace it, it is not difficult there, when assembling, put it on and tap the head through the old stuffing box. I immediately removed the regulator and forgot to take a picture of it, well, I think it’s not critical.

I also forgot to take a picture, there is a nut and a nut on the back of the regulator, followed by a spring with a stop milled under the rail. We unscrew this case and take it out. Responsible for the slide rail. Just mark this cracker where the top is where the bottom is. And also put back when assembling.

Next, clamp the rail, drill. Probably need to drill deeper. And then my carving was torn, when unscrewing, and when tightening the new cover, there were also problems.

Loosen the nut with a 41 wrench.

Now the task is to take out the most important part and replace the seals there. I had to punch out. Knock out to the side where unscrewed. I recommend everyone to keep the book in front of you so as not to confuse, or sheets from a book, or a laptop, as I did. I already knocked in a different way, it doesn’t work out. Spat turned the rail of the drilled part up. And what about the floor like pussy @ nyL.Came out right away.

But that's not all there was one gland and a ring. In short, it also needs to be beaten out. I put the head on the extension cord, wrapped it with a rag and then knocked it out. But not the first time, because where the entry is, the diameter is less than that of the part where the stuffing box and it just flew through the stuffing box. Then I first stuffed a piece of rag and then pushed it with my head, the rag pressed tightly and squeezed out. But there also had to cunt@nyT.

All then we put the stuffing box ring on the rod, lubricate it with slurry and push it in, and tap it. In the book, cellophane is used to put on the stuffing box, I put it on so carefully. Spring towards the middle. Well, in general, as it was, and let's go

We knocked on the stem further, do not remove it, put the second stuffing box and tighten the cover. Then we put back the regulator itself, but we need to set everything according to our marks. For those who made a risk on the regulator, there will be no problems for 5 minutes and it's ready. Then we twist this cracker with a spring. I deliberately made myself a little tighter, otherwise the steering wheel was spinning too easily. The book has a process. I did it by eye and that's it.

Then we change the rubber insulator

We put the rail back, put the pipe in place, put the sensor, connect it. We fill the slurry in the gur, we start. We try, and so on.

Thank you all for your attention, there are a lot of mistakes, because I write quickly, otherwise I won’t have time !!

Replacing tie rod ends. Steering rod replacement
Replacing the anthers of the steering rack on Nissan

(The work was carried out on Nissan Cefiro)

• Car suspension diagnostics revealed worn steering tips or tie rods of your Nissan
• If you shake the steering rod directly on the car, you can feel a beating or even knocking (heavy wear)
• When driving on small unevenness (such as gravel), a constant, not very deaf thud is heard.

You will need:

• Keys, screwdrivers.
• Set of heads with a ratchet.
• Jack and a couple of chocks.
• Some kind of mat or large climbing cloth near and under the car.
• Steering pin puller.
• New spare parts.
• A long narrow, rather rigid pin (at least half a meter long). Will be shown in the photo.
• One assistant, or additional 2 long and strong arms.

We start repairing Nissan.

To carry out the entire procedure, you will need at least some set of tools, it will be most convenient with a ratchet and heads, as well as a pair of keys.

To begin with, I will describe the procedure for replacing the tie rod ends and steering rack anthers:

[If you change the rods, then we do not remove the tips. ]

We turn the steering wheel so that the steering rack is extended to the maximum towards you. We install a puller for steering tips (if necessary, we knock it under the tip with a hammer) [top photo]. After installing the puller, we tighten the nut on it, periodically tapping with a hammer on the bottom of the puller [what to twist on the top photo, where to beat on the bottom]. Having performed such a not tricky action, the tip will be removed.

The tip is screwed onto the steering rod and fixed with a nut on it. At the same time, there are turnkey edges on the steering rack itself and the steering tip. Holding the steering rack or steering tip with one key, unscrew the nut fixing the tip with the second. After we plucked it, we are in no hurry to unscrew it (since you still have to go to the geometry after such a procedure), after fixing the steering rod from turning with a key, unscrew the tip counting the turns (a new tip should be screwed onto the steering rod the same number of revolutions). If the steering rack boot is not torn, not in solid oil and in general looks normal and does not require replacement, we collect everything back. If it needs to be replaced, first remove the small clamp, then the large one (far), take out the old boot. I want to warn you that the large clamps that come with anther are rather inconvenient when tightening, so it will be much more convenient to buy clamps tightened with a screwdriver (there is very little space for tightening, but all this can be done comfortably under the car).It will also be quite problematic to tension the anther on a larger seat. But if you try everything will work out. If you are going to change the tie rod, then read on without assembling.

A steering malfunction is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitching of the steering wheel on rough roads. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing the old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do this.

WD40

1. A set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
2. Tip remover.
3. Hammer and thin screwdriver.
4. Liquid key.
5. Rags.
6. Wooden supports.

Steering rack and tips

1. Before starting work, we install the car on a level place and block the parking brake. For reliability, place bricks under the rear wheels. After fixing the car, go to the front.
2. We put the steering wheel in the neutral position.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts one by one.

Loosen wheel nuts

When all the work has been done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. Thus, you will free access to the steering tips, which will make it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over with a solution of WD (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding rust, we move into the engine compartment and free access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips together with the steering wheel, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Steering tip puller

Pliers remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and we put the upper part of the finger on the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and with a hammer blow we knock out the tip from the rack mount.

Tip removal

Steering cardan lock bolt

• We loosen the fasteners of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and lift up the trim so that nothing is in your way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a collar with small slots and to release it will be necessary to unscrew only one nut.
• We return under the hood and turn off the nuts securing the steering clamps.
• The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, begin, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can’t remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap lightly on it.
• When you have completely disconnected all the fasteners, carefully pull the steering rack through the hole in the wheel arch space. In order to remove it freely, you will have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft fits into the recess. In which direction to turn, be guided by the place.

Rail dismantling

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you do all the work with an assistant.