DIY steering rack repair nissan liberty

An indispensable element of the steering is a car steering rack. This part is present in almost all cars that are produced in modern times, including Nissan cars. It is the steering rack that ensures the rotation of the car's wheels due to the driver's influence on the steering wheel. Therefore, it is very important to know the probable causes of breakdowns, as well as how to tighten and repair the steering rack of a Nissan car.

There are three types of steering racks:

• The hydraulic rack is installed in almost all modern passenger cars. She is the most popular. The driver does not need to exert much effort to drive the vehicle because the power steering is hydraulic type.
• A simpler device is characteristic of a mechanical steering rack. The rudder drive is in contact with a gear rack, which in turn has contact with a gear mechanism located at one of the ends of the steering rack.
• The electric steering rack is fundamentally different from the previous two types. To increase the driver's effort, a separate electric motor is installed in the car.

Depending on the car model, the steering rack device is slightly different. It can be located at the top and bottom. In the first case, the rail is attached to the car body behind the engine, in the second case, the connection to the body is carried out by a beam or subframe.

The steering rack structure consists of the following elements:

The principle of operation of the hydraulic steering rack is to transfer power by means of a hydraulic device from the engine to the gear rack. The pressure in the power steering system creates a pump, which is attached to the engine and is driven by a belt feed. As a result of the pressure, the oil flows into the distributor.

There are special valves on the steering shaft that allow oil to pass into and out of the oil lines. A piston is installed on the toothed shaft. And depending on where the steering wheel is turned, the oil will press on one side and easily go into the power steering tank on the other.

Thus, with the engine running, you can turn the wheels in any direction without much effort.

Damage to the steering wheel is considered one of the most serious malfunctions in a car.

Consider the main symptoms of control faults.

• Typical knocks and beats in the steering rack of a Nissan car. The cause may be a weakening of the ball joint, wear of the steering shaft bearing or the steering rod end hinge.
• Increased steering play. It is possible that the steam-transmitting steering rod end joint is worn out, or the steering shaft bearing.
• The steering wheel is idling and does not turn. Often the cause is the usual clogging of the drive components. The second reason is a violation of the wheel alignment angle. Another possible option is a low level of hydraulic fluid.
• The steering rack is leaking in the Nissan car. Most likely, the anther of the steering linkage has worn out, as a result of which the tightness of the steering mechanism has broken. Also, the hoses may have been damaged or the fastening itself may be loosened.

The main reason for the failure of the steering system is the poor quality of the roads. Dusty streets and bumping bumps will have a rather negative effect on the car's control system, especially if the driver is not used to slowing down in front of bumps and pits on the roads.

It is also very important to follow the operating rules. It is necessary to use high-quality components, good working fluid, and regularly carry out maintenance of the car.

Some drivers leave their car in cold temperatures with the wheels inverted, unaware that this could damage the hydraulic steering racks. Failure to replace the hydraulic fluid in the power steering system will also contribute to rapid wear.

Professional diagnostics is carried out in three stages:

1. Initial inspection on the car. Such an inspection will exclude the likelihood of mistaking a chassis malfunction for a breakdown of the steering mechanism. During the initial diagnostics, the integrity of the hydraulic system, the color and level of the fluid in the tank, the condition of the worm gear, steering tips and rods are checked.
2. Diagnostics of the removed unit in a vice in order to identify knocks and backlash. The support sleeve is checked for play, the steering rod apples are inspected for rust.
3. Detailed inspection of the steering rack for defects (troubleshooting). The rack is completely disassembled, and each mechanism and element is subject to inspection in order to understand the feasibility of replacing the steering rack for Nissan.

Only after all the stages of diagnostics have been carried out, it is possible to accurately determine the state of the vehicle's steering system and, accordingly, decide what would be more correct - to repair the rail for Nissan Almera, or to replace the steering rack.

You can adjust the steering rack in a Nissan car yourself. But it is important to understand that due to the fact that the condition of the rack and pinion is not known without complete disassembly, the tightening may not solve the problem with backlash.

The adjustment is carried out by tightening the adjusting screw, which is located in the end cover of the steering gear. You will need a pit or overpass. In an extreme case, a jack will do, but in this case, for safety reasons, you must not forget to additionally strengthen the car after lifting it. When using jacks, the front wheels should be straight.

Using a backlash meter, you need to measure the backlash of the steering wheel. The indicator should not be higher than 10 degrees.

The adjusting screw should be tightened very slowly, regularly checking the steering wheel travel and the presence of knocking in the column or the presence of play.

After the work is completed, it is imperative to conduct a running test. During the movement, the steering wheel should move smoothly. If there is "heaviness", the adjusting screw must be slightly loosened.

The adjustment is correct if the knocking and play have disappeared and the steering wheel smoothly rotates to the center position.

Repair of the steering rack of Nissan Primera, Almera and Qashqai cars is carried out approximately according to the same principle. Work begins with a complete disassembly of the rail itself. First, the anthers and joints of the steering rods are removed. After that, the distributor mounting bolts are removed from the steering rack housing. Then, by unscrewing the clamp nut, you need to remove the spring and clamp.

The distributor in the housing is removed from the rail, after which it is removed from the housing and the oil seal and bearing are knocked out.

Next, you need to remove the back plate from the steering rack and remove the stem. The left stem seal can be removed using a puller.

The bearing is removed from the distributor, the centering sleeve is removed from the back. At the end, the oil seal is removed.

All parts are thoroughly washed and treated with special degreasing agents in order to get rid of dust, sand, dirt and waste oil. You can use a special steering rack repair kit for Nissan Almera.

Then you need to grind the rod and the distributor neck to a mirror surface.

All internal elements (O-rings, retaining rings, bushings, etc.) must be replaced with new ones. Replacing the steering rack oil seals of a Nissan car is also required. The shafts and the housing remain.

After the new components are selected, the steering rack can be assembled.

Using a mandrel, you need to press the upper gland into the distributor housing. The bearing is pressed in in the same way. The distributor is coated with a special grease, and it is placed in a housing, which is also pre-lubricated.

A new left stem oil seal is pressed in. The comb of the stem is coated with grease, and the stem is returned to the steering rack housing. It is necessary to apply grease to the distributor worm and, placing it in the housing, install it in place. The rod clamp is returned.

The spring is filled with grease, put in place and the nut is pulled.

The steering rack bushing of the Nissan should be installed in the rear panel. A new oil seal is pressed in. An O-ring is put on it, and the oiled back is returned to its regular place.

When the steering rack is assembled, you can install it on the car, add oil and bleed the system.

Here are some tips from experienced drivers to help keep your car's steering system in good working order.

• Make sure that the protective boots are in good condition.
• Do not keep the steering wheel in its most extreme position for more than 5 seconds.
• In winter, when leaving a parking place, do not turn the steering wheel right after the engine has warmed up. First, turn the steering wheel in gentle, short strokes to warm up the oil in the power steering system.
• Contact only reliable, proven service stations. If possible, personally supervise the process of servicing the car. Often, after adjustment, mechanics forget to tighten the loosened boot clamp. Even more often, they do the work with dirty hands. Namely, dirt and sand can spoil the steering rack in just a few days.

Well, let's go, with all the stops!
Prehistory.
The car was bought almost a year ago with the current oil seal and another bunch of diseases. Almost everything has already been done, and only the current oil seal remained. The weather was going for almost half a year, then the work was not in cranking, then with money, as usual, stress.
Get to the point.
Such a set was purchased

And away we go:

We must fix the steering wheel. For this, it was enough to wind the electrical tape in two layers. If the steering wheel and wheels are level, then the bolts on the cardan are in positions convenient for unscrewing.

What it looked like for me

We remove everything that will interfere with the work. I removed only the air filter housing and the corrugation with the sensor going to the throttle damper. Then, if desired, we clean the parsing place from dirt and get this:

We remove the gimbals. There were no special problems, everything is available and there is enough space. We unscrew the large tubes - the lower one by 14, the upper one by 17. We went relatively easily. There is very little liquid glass from the pump. We loosen the small tubes - used an adjustable wrench. It seems there is a wrench on eleven.

We unscrew the bolts of the sprocket. I started from the far one. It unscrewed normally. I used the cardan attachment. And here it is.

Especially for you Ale-San

A rubber ring, a retaining ring, and an oil seal-19x30x6.5, which will have to be sharpened.
From what this repair kit I do not know, but it cost me 280 wooden ones. It took two weeks to order, but I took it from a dubious company, because. in Exist, they did not even want to try to break through, referring to the absence of this catalog number in the database (at that time it was not registered on their website).
Regarding the Blue Bird, there is a completely different distributor, he personally held it in his hands, they have a one-to-one rail, and in principle, you can turn the distributor to us, but. the angle of inclination of the rail is different, so you have to work collective farms with the pipes. So judge for yourself which is easier.

By lightly hitting the hammer with the upper end of the shaft, we take it out from the inside. So we get this:

We take a head of a suitable size from the set, I fit it at 17, put it on the oil seal and lightly hit it with a hammer, knock it out together with the bearing.

Then I moved home. Well, a smoke break for devouring, on the forum to flood a little. And also it was necessary to grind a new oil seal on the outer diameter. I made it out of improvised means (a caliper finger from a GAZelle).

We assemble in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the inside of the body with slurry for better entry of the oil seal and bearing. We fill the lower oil seal with Litol (well, or another thick grease), and also put it on the shaft worm and put it back. thin tubes, with a little effort push the body down and tighten the asterisk bolts. Screw the rest of the tubes and stretch all of them all the way. Pour the liquid into the tank, and while it flows naturally by itself, collect the rest.

Next, we sit in the car, and no matter how lazy we turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Top up the slurry. As I did alone, then I did the following: I did not start the car for a long time, I added the slurry to the level, I did not start it for a long time, I added it, I started it and began to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, periodically looking at the level of the liquid in the tank.
Everything!

Here's the whole tool I used:

Heads-19,17,10, E10 (asterisk), socket wrenches-12,17,14,13, extension tube (to rip off the nut of the upper cardan)
The simplest tool, isn't it?

On a test I rolled around the city, about 10 km circle (filters, clutch buy). Feels like the steering wheel became a little tighter, the return to zero is normal, the howling sound disappeared, the leaks are not visible anywhere. on the shaft).
Nothing complicated actually turned out. The eyes are afraid, the hands are doing. (C)
Thanks for the support of our Clubbers.
I believe that I fully reported to you on the work done, and therefore I went to eat beer with vodka.

finally, I overcame my laziness and decided to restore the steering rack
first unscrew the brass tubes very carefully so as not to close the nuts. Then everything that is marked with red arrows and, accordingly, remove the wheels and tips
near the cardan there is a chip, we also disconnect it

when we removed the rail we unscrew all the brass tubes so as not to break them and take off the head I don’t know how it is called correctly there we unscrew two bolts and then knock them in the hand with a hammer so that the gear falls out under it the gland is pissing and the bearing

Miniatures

then we unscrew this crap

and the nut, for a long time they could not unscrew it a little kinkytled her some kind of shitty how it turned out later under the mud did not notice on the rail housing not a big factory dent that it did not unscrew the dent can be drilled out or filed off and everything is unscrewed

the continuation will be in the evening went to the garage to collect

but who decides to restore the rail, stock up with keys up to size 36 and mandrels or ratchet heads so that the oil seals can be knocked out and hammered in and the stem is well knocked out by the extension for the ratchet in the photo lying next to it still makes sense to purchase 3 extra oil seals in a green circle because it must be worn through the cuts in the stock you can piss it looks like he is pissing due to the fact that at the factory he is pissing and slurry you need to buy which rail you can wash, I took kerosene because the sidekick fitted an aviation and a basin in which to soak a pot for flowers that grandmothers hang on balconies is great

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message Michael_TMB »May 19, 2009, 18:59

Message Krestspb »20 May 2009, 08:14

Message Michael_TMB »20 May 2009, 09:52

Message Krestspb »22 May 2009, 08:19

Message Den555 »03 Feb 2010, 10:29

Message maior1961 »06 Nov 2012, 17:33

Message Hitachi 06 Nov 2012, 18:07

Maybe a rake, but it's easy to check. I collected about knocking in neighboring topics. In principle, everything is simple there. And for today, you can add more about knocks, it’s frozen and what a klytishka and nerves are doing.

Added after 19 minutes 1 second:
Damn, I forgot.If the worm is near the rail, then you can try to pull it up a little. There, it seems, under six edges for 27 or 30 (you can bolt with nuts, just to work with a key), this core bolt from the rail body. It is better to lift one wheel (ease the load) and one turns it there a little, literally by a millimeter, the other tries the steering wheel with the engine running. This operation will help for a while, but the worm is already over and now we know about it. ... ... By and large, you can replace it and here it is already a matter of the price of the issue. Only the worm and the gear wear out, well, a couple of oil seals. ... ...

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.

WD40

1. Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
2. Tip remover.
3. Hammer and thin screwdriver.
4. Liquid key.
5. Rags.
6. Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

1. Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
2. We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

• We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
• We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
• The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
• When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..