DIY steering rack repair sv 40

In detail: do-it-yourself steering rack repair over 40 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello dear motorists! This will not be about fighting, this is your favorite car, but the tactics of servicing the steering should be developed by you.

During the operation of the vehicle, its steering mechanism is subject to gradual wear, which can lead to failure of the steering system. In no case should this be allowed, since failure of the steering is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

More correctly on your part, it will regularly conduct a technical inspection of the machine in order to identify potential malfunctions in a timely manner. In the course of such an inspection, the backlash of the steering wheel rotation, the integrity of the steering mechanism: the steering gear, the steering rack are necessarily checked.

If you notice symptoms indicating a possible steering malfunction, it is worth considering how to repair the steering rack.

And, as soon as you decide to repair the steering rack with your own hands, just get acquainted with the procedure using the example of repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 car. Technological operations are, in principle, the same. With the exception of taking into account the design features of the steering rack on cars of different brands.

It is advisable to carry out the process of repairing the steering mechanism with an assistant, since it will be somewhat difficult for one to disassemble and assemble the steering rack.

Before starting work, you need to make a purchase of equipment for repairing steering racks, consisting of a steering rack repair kit, a corrugation, a bearing on the gear shaft and plus - a small tube of Litol grease.

Video (click to play).

Necessary tools for repairing steering racks: special 17 octagonal wrench, tools for handling bearings, including special pliers for mounting the circlip and bearing puller.

In addition, you will need a standard set of wrenches. The whole procedure for repairing the steering rack with your own hands, it will be much more convenient for you to perform using a viewing hole or overpass.

Unpin the nuts on the steering pins, then press the pins out of the holes in the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
Unscrew the locking bolt on the spline located at the pedal assembly.
Using a 13-point head, unscrew a pair of nuts that hold the steering gear against the car body.
Remove the brackets of the mechanism.
Disconnect the steering shaft and drive gear, jack up the right side of the machine and pull the steering box out through the wheel well.
Unscrew the bolts on the steering rods using a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel (required to bend the edges of the lock plate).
Remove the connecting and retaining plates and disconnect the tie rods.
Remove the rubber mount and the protective cover.
Dismantle the rail.
After disassembly, flush the crankcase of the mechanism and press a new bearing from the repair kit into it.
Lubricate the gears with Litol and assemble the assembly in reverse order.
After completing the assembly, adjust the gap between the nut and the stop to 0.12 mm.

Thus, you, on your own, made the restoration of the steering rack, which takes about two hours of time.

In general, this procedure can be assessed as repair work of average complexity. Such repairs are quite possible for amateur performance.

It is only important to have the necessary locksmith skills, patience, perseverance in achieving this goal.

Carrying out car repairs on your own allows you not only to reduce the financial costs of its maintenance, but also makes it possible to learn more about the design features of the components of a modern car, feel freer and more confident, being alone with your car.

Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack.

Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.

there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.

Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.

A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.

This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.

Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
Remove the lower oil seal
Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.

Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
Place the rail in the housing.
Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.

Read also: DIY generator repair toyota

Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.

As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.

The repair is completed, the result is satisfied, of course, when I put it, my opinion may change, but so far the feeling of a new steering rack does not disappear.

In fact, nothing complicated. Useful tools: open-end and spanner wrenches (12 ″, 14 ″, 17 ″, 19 ″, 22 ″, 24 ″, 27 ″, 32 ″), vise, flat and Phillips screwdriver, pliers, turnkey nut (like 24 ″ ) later I will write for what, a hammer, a wooden spacer, a lot of rags.The repair kit itself is also required.

Most of the time is spent on cleaning the rail from dirt, maybe someone will have it differently, but I had it all in oil mixed with dust.

We begin disassembly by removing the steering rods. To do this, remove the anthers (they are on 2 clamps) and move them towards the steering tips. We see the lock washer between the rail and the rod. We bend it back with a screwdriver and use a different tool to try to unscrew them from each other. I did it with a vise and a 22 ″ wrench. We do the same with the second side.

After that, you need to unscrew the two large nuts (marked in the photo). To do this, we unscrew the lock nut. I did this again with the help of a vice, simply holding the lock nut in them and turning the rail. You can try to do the same using some huge key, but I didn't have it. Further, using the same 24 "nut, or rather inserting it inside the large hex nuts, unscrew it with a regular wrench. We carefully take out the insides. Under one there will be the lower bearing, under the other block, which aligns the rail inside the casing.

Then we unscrew the tubes from the top and the top cover (on two bolts). It is removed quite easily. We see the following.

We take out the "worm", if it does not work by hand, then you can gently hit the stock from the bottom side.

Next, remove the retaining ring from the long side of the rack casing.
Now you can knock out the rail itself. On the short side of the casing, we begin to knock on the rail with a hammer through the wooden spacer. The metal stopper should be knocked out from the back side. Now, if you have enough strength, you can simply pull from the long side and the rail will come out with two oil seals and two washers, you will figure it out on the spot. If something remains inside, then again tap the rest from the short side to the long one.

We carefully clean everything from a mixture of grease and dextron.

And we start replacing old parts.

What was in the kit:
4 small Teflon rings, changeable on the "worm"
1 large teflon ring, and a small rubber o-ring - change in the middle of the rail itself
2 identical oil seals along the edges of the rail, in the same place washer-limiters
2 different oil seals with "worm" upper and lower
1 large o-ring - under the top cover
small air vents at the joints of the tubes with different places

We start assembly in the reverse order. We put on washers and seals on the rail, lubricating them and the rings with dextron, and the rail slots with lithol. We carefully hammer it into the casing from the long side, then put a metal stop and a retaining ring. On top of the casing we drive in the lower oil seal of the "worm" and carefully insert it itself, with the replaced rings and put on the bearing and upper oil seal, as well as the splines lubricated with lithol. Lubricate the top of the "worm" (up to the lower gland) with dextron and put on the top cover. We tighten it with bolts, because difficult to put on. Then we turn over the rail and tighten those large nuts with all the insides, after having lubricated it with lithol. It remains to screw the rods into place by placing new lock washers, not forgetting to roll them.

Look like that's it. The main thing is not to be afraid and remember what, where, how and most importantly why it was filmed, so that you can put everything in its place.

Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).

Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside along the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.

11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.

12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. )

For left hand drive

Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon.There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

An innovative idea allows you to cheaply repair the steering rack with your own hands. Those who wish are given the opportunity to learn from experience and, using available materials, improve this part of the mechanism of their car.

This video provides information on the innovative idea and the use of materials at home when troubleshooting steering rack problems at home. A non-standard approach to eliminating extraneous sounds while driving, delights in its simplicity and results. This solution will allow you to forget about the knocking steering rack for a long time.

For everyone who wants to watch the original repair of the steering rack with their own hands, the video clip provides such an opportunity. Troubleshooting steps for the device that controls the movement of the wheels and the direction of the vehicle include:

unscrewing the bolts and squeezing out the clamps with the steering wheel unscrewed with a 22 mm spanner wrench;
removing the bushings and unscrewing the bolt on the steering column in the passenger compartment in the area of the pedals with a 14 mm wrench;
removing clamps from the steering rack and removing the device through the wheel;
releasing the steering rack from thin clamps using an awl and a thin screwdriver and an anther;
preparation of several pieces of plastic from watering cans, cans and other products to fill the free space between the metal rail body and the support sleeve. The size of the blanks must correspond to the length and width of the recess for the sleeve to move;
inserting blanks inside the steering rack until it stops against the bushing, among which the last element should be the most rigid;
checking the free movement of the sleeve over the plastic, tightly installed in the rack cavity;
installation of the steering rack in place.

This solution eliminates the knock of the support sleeve for a long period of time.

Hello to all happy owners of Chords!
I would like to add a little more information on the repair of our painful slats!)))) A lot of things were discussed about this, I also decided to share my experience.
The problem actually was like that of many - this is an annoying knock, first from the right and then from the left. I endured all this until the right oil seal began to sweat.Winter is coming and I decided to fix this problem! I ordered a repair kit on the Internet, a bushing (lock nut), an adjusting sleeve, an upper spool oil seal (it comes with a bearing), a right boot, a week of waiting and everything came. And one more liter of fresh PSF.

From an unusual tool, you will need large keys (32, 40, 46), a mid-square wrench, a denometric wrench (you can do without it), preferably an electric drill and drill (4 or 5 mm), a pipe wrench (17-19), large syringe with a tube (remove liquid from the tank).

Now the whole process is in order:

1.we drive the car onto the overpass (pit), hang the front wheels.

2.We pump out the liquid from the tank

3. We disassemble the top (in the cabin)

just pull the guard towards you, it is held in place by the clips.

4. unscrew the steering column universal joint.

5. Pull the cardan from the slots to the top.
IMPORTANT: When the cardan is already removed, you need to fix the steering wheel so that no one turns the steering wheel.
Since you can break the train under the steering wheel.

6. unscrew the three nuts by 10 and remove the boot.

removing this boot is problematic. noise insulation and a rug interfere, the boot is under them. Okay, take it off, put it in its place, that's hemorrhagic. So a couple of packs of sedatives will come in handy. )))

it is better to remove the retainer and elastic band. the elastic is displaced to the bottom relative to the shaft.

7. Turn off the steering tips. I didn't have a puller at hand, I made it easier to unscrew the nuts not completely so that the nut was flush with the end of the thread of the tip. This is necessary so as not to spoil the thread with a blow. We hit everything from the bottom with a hammer and voila. the tip came off. unscrew the nut and that's it. If your finger scrolls, press the tip from the top with a pry bar and unscrew it to your health!) Unfortunately, I did not take a photo ((

8. unscrew the fastening of the rail itself.
We twist the lower one from the bottom and the one that is higher is more convenient to twist from the top

9. unscrew the three bolts of the heat shield from the bottom.

They are tightened from the heart!) You will need such a key.

11. first unscrew the blue bracket bolt, hold the tube, then the rest.

for convenience, you will need such a set with a gimbal.

12. to remove the rail you need to lower the beam. you can replace the stabilizer bushings in one go, and that's what I did.
so we lower the beam:

we lower it by 3-3.5 cm, this is quite enough, leave the right bolt, the beam will hold on it, and unscrew the left one completely and remove the spacer (it interferes with unscrewing the stub bushing)

13.remove the rail to the left side

wash it thoroughly with gasoline and carry it to a warm garage))

14.Unscrew the tips you need two keys for 19 and one for 14

remove the anthers and unscrew the rods (do not spoil the plastic thrust rings, they will still come in handy), here you need keys for 22 and 32 (32 will need to be modified so that it is not wider than 10 mm, otherwise it will not fit)

15.Unscrew the adjusting sleeve a key 40 and a knob with a middle square.

development of teflon coating to metal

16. unscrew the two bolts, tubes and remove the spool.

17.Knock out the spool shaft (it came out easily for me)

the ring is in the repair kit.

18. then unscrew the guide nut, it is nibbled. I did not drill a lot and it unscrewed without any problems. (The nut is thick, do not be afraid to drill))

IMPORTANT: do not clamp the body tightly in a vice, it can be deformed and that's it. the rail can be thrown out. Nut under
key for 46

19. then you need to knock out the oil seal that is under the nut. The difficulty is that the shaft will spring due to the air and oil that remain behind the outlet fitting.
I did this: I pulled the shaft out of the body as much as possible and pressed the shaft to the side so that a gap appeared between the shaft and the oil seal, the main goal was to release air (it is very springy). Then we put something on the opposite side of the shaft and try to knock out the oil seal (it came out easily for me). I used the extension cord from the kit.

the second oil seal is knocked out in the same direction as the first.

you need to knock out gently with something softer than steel without damaging the internal working surface, I found some kind of stick in the garage and easily knocked out the oil seal.

we see that there is a washer under the oil seal

21. We wash the body thoroughly with gasoline and drive a new oil seal (do not forget to put a washer in front of the oil seal)

a new washer can be taken from the rem. kit

I pressed the new oil seal with a head of 27 and two extension cords

22. Now you need to replace the cuffs on the shaft, there are two of them: one ring is white, looking like plastic, and under it the other is rubber (the plastic ring needs to be worn very carefully - it is difficult to stretch, you can break it, for example, it is a little heated over the carrying lamp.)

that's what happened in the end

23. install the shaft into the housing, before installing, put a little electrical tape on the end of the shaft so as not to close the oil seal.
IMPORTANT: Insert the shaft carefully, remember that the shaft teeth can also damage the oil seal!

24. Press the second oil seal with a new nut.

25. Lubricate the whole thing, I used violet grease, of course, lithol, in general, whoever wants anything!))

26. Now we change the oil seal and the spool bearing. I picked up the head from the set, I don't remember exactly which one, and at the beginning I pressed the oil seal and then the bearing (with the inscriptions outward, so that after installation they could be seen).

We put the spool shaft in place, check that the shaft rotates without much effort. We lubricate everything, especially the bearing and splines.

we put all this on the rail (do not forget to change the ring it is in the repair kit)

27. put the adjusting sleeve (do not forget to lubricate everything)

How I regulated:
I twisted until it rested, then unscrewed it by one turn and wrapped it again until it rested and let it go by about 20 degrees (all this is needed so that the spring falls into place) If in the mind, then you need a denmetric key and do it all with some effort. I didn't have the key. After assembly, the steering wheel did not become tighter and the knock (if you roam the steering wheel) on the muffled engine is a thing of the past!)))

28. We screw the tubes into place (I forgot to take a photo)

29.The steering rods to be screwed on, do not forget to put plastic thrust rings

put new retaining rings (mustache in the shaft) they are in the repair kit

31.fasten the steering tips (forward bend)

Everything. now we put on the car. I think it's not worth describing the procedure!)))

here are a few photos of the bushings that I replaced in one. I put myself a smaller diameter polyurethane bushings instead of 26.5 mm and 25.4 mm because the stabilizer itself was worn.

Good luck to everyone in the repair of your favorite car))).

A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.

The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.

WD40

Set of wrenches, socket and ratchet heads.
Tip remover.
Hammer and thin screwdriver.
Liquid key.
Rags.
Wooden props.

Steering rack and tips

Before starting work, set the car on a level place and lock the parking brake. Place bricks under the rear wheels for safety. Having fixed the car, go to the front.
We expose the steering wheel to neutral position.
Loosen the wheel nuts in turn.

Loosen the wheel nuts

When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.

Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).

While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.

Unscrew the absorber

Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.

If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.

Tie rod puller

Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.

Removing the handpieces

Steering gimbal locking bolt

We loosen the fastenings of the cross. This connection is located inside the passenger compartment under the brake pedal. Remove the rubber mat and raise the trim out of the way. The internal fastening is made in the form of a clamp with small slots and only one nut must be unscrewed to release it.
We return under the hood and unscrew the nuts securing the steering clamps.
The rail is free, it remains only to remove it. Taking the body with both hands, start, loosening, pull it towards you. If you can't remove it, it means that the spline connection in the cabin is stuck. Take a hammer and tap it lightly.
When you have completely detached all fasteners, carefully slide the steering rack out through the hole in the wheel arch space. To remove it without hindrance, you have to turn it to the right or left so that the splined shaft goes into the groove. Which way to turn, be guided by the place.

Dismantling the rail

Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..

The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and start preparing for the installation of a new one. Image - DIY steering rack repair sv 40

Installing a new steering rack

Clean all seats with a brush and sandpaper. Coat the landing pins with grease or graphite grease.
Before installing a new rail, you need to open the plugs and fill the holes with lithol.
Now we put the rail into the engine compartment. This is done in the reverse order of removal. Rotate it carefully around the axis so as not to damage the mechanisms and wiring.
We put the rail on the studs, put on the clamps and attach the nuts.

When connecting the spline part with the steering "worm", you will need an assistant. One guides from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the passenger compartment. The main thing is that the groove on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the fixing bolt.

At the last stage, you need to tighten the stud nuts. This must be done sequentially, first twisting them a little and then tightening them to the limit.
The rail is installed, we put on the tips, wrap them up and install the wheels.

Be sure to adjust the toe-out after installation.

Before starting work, watch the video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:

Hello dear motorists! This will not be about fighting, this is your favorite car, but the tactics of servicing the steering should be developed by you.

If you notice symptoms indicating a possible steering malfunction, it is worth considering how to repair the steering rack.

And, as soon as you decide to repair the steering rack with your own hands, just get acquainted with the procedure using the example of repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 car. Technological operations are, in principle, the same.With the exception of taking into account the design features of the steering rack on cars of different brands.

It is advisable to carry out the process of repairing the steering mechanism with an assistant, since it will be somewhat difficult for one to disassemble and assemble the steering rack.

Necessary tools for repairing steering racks: special 17 octagonal wrench, tools for handling bearings, including special pliers for mounting the circlip and bearing puller.

Unpin the nuts on the steering pins, then press the pins out of the holes in the pivot arms of the suspension struts.
Unscrew the locking bolt on the spline located at the pedal assembly.
Using a 13-point head, unscrew a pair of nuts that hold the steering gear against the car body.
Remove the brackets of the mechanism.
Disconnect the steering shaft and drive gear, jack up the right side of the machine and pull the steering box out through the wheel well.
Unscrew the bolts on the steering rods using a 22 head, a hammer and a chisel (required to bend the edges of the lock plate).
Remove the connecting and retaining plates and disconnect the tie rods.
Remove the rubber mount and the protective cover.
Dismantle the rail.
After disassembly, flush the crankcase of the mechanism and press a new bearing from the repair kit into it.
Lubricate the gears with Litol and assemble the assembly in reverse order.
After completing the assembly, adjust the gap between the nut and the stop to 0.12 mm.