Do-it-yourself steering rack repair Toyota Corolla 120

Any unit and mechanism in a car has a certain service life, which can be significantly reduced under constant loads and improper use. One of the elements that are most exposed to wear is the steering column, which is constantly in operation due to the steering wheel turns. On Toyota Corolla, a knock in the steering column indicates a malfunction in the control system and requires an early search for the causes of its appearance and, if possible, elimination.

Like most modern cars, the Corolla is steered by the front wheels. They are steering, and they are controlled by a steering mechanism and a drive. With the help of the steering column, the wheels are connected to the control system.

The features of the Toyota Corolla steering rack in the 120th body, as in the 150th, as well as in cars of 2001, 2002, 2003, are similar, and most often the malfunctions are of the same nature, diagnostic and repair scheme.

Malfunctions, as well as malfunctions that most often appear in the steering mechanism, are the occurrence of a slight knock. He says that the bushings have worn out, which create a slight tapping due to the backlash. Replacing this component can be done by hand and does not cause great difficulties.

The second element that often fails during operation and which you can repair yourself is the lower cross.

Another reason to pay attention to the steering mechanism is the deterioration of the controllability of the car. This may indicate that the tie rod has worn out - it has been deformed or the thread has been stripped on it.

The steering tip is another important element in the system. The reason for its failure may be the ingress of moisture and dust on the gum, as well as its drying out.

The steering rack includes mechanisms such as electric rack, column, steering tips, universal joints and traction. The failure of any of them is most often determined by the elimination method.

Before you disassemble and start repairing the steering rack on the Toyota Corolla 150 body, you should exclude a malfunction of the tips. For such a diagnosis, an assistant is required. One person should swing the steering wheel easily and slowly, and the second should check each bearing (model ZZE122 Koyo). In a faulty knock, it will be felt with the palm of your hand. It is this element - ZZE122 Koyo - that is original and recommended by the manufacturer for replacement.

The steering rack in a Toyota Corolla (body 120 or 150) of any year of manufacture, even with long-term maintenance and being constantly in operation, fails quite often, which cannot be said about the steering column or the shaft extending from it.

Dampness and salt, constant loads and the presence of dust provide the steering rack on the Toyota Corolla with a reduction in effective service life. To repair this element, it is not always necessary to completely remove the part. To carry it out, you will need an oiler, as well as a drill and a threading tool (electric or manual).

The car is driven into a pit or lift, and a high level of light access is provided. In the rail itself, a segment is selected that can be approached with tools.

Drilling should be very careful, trying not to damage other parts, going only to the required depth.

An oiler is screwed into the prepared thread, and grease is poured into the column. After that, wipe off the excess from the surface and put on the rubber cap. Most often after that, under the steering wheel no longer knocks.

On some models of 2011 with a body of 120 and 150, both the left and right handlebars are made with a large play of the cross, not providing tight contact, which causes a knock in the very near future after purchase. Also, disassembly of some models, regardless of the year of manufacture of the body, indicates poor fixation of the cross bolts, which can rotate and unwind during operation.

As a rule, a knock appears in most cases after 90-100 thousand kilometers, but it requires contacting the service station as soon as possible. It is loud enough and audible well, and the steering wheel does not become less tight or poorly controlled.

If you need to replace the bushing, then you should perform the following steps:

• for replacement, it is necessary to remove the steering column guard by unscrewing the bolts and unhooking the latches;
• part of the air outlet is also removed;
• all fasteners fixing the steering column are unscrewed;
• the column is removed.

After removing it together with the steering wheel, it should be installed on a prepared surface covered with foam rubber or a rag. The shaft is pulled out and cleaned of old grease, re-lubricated and installed in place.

If the knock is caused by a worn or deformed cross, then it needs to be replaced. To do this, unscrew the fasteners of the protective casing of the steering column (all three bolts are removed). The worn cross is removed from the seat, and its surface is wiped from dirt and dust and lubricated. Then a new element is installed.

If the cause of the knock is in the steering rods, then to replace them it will be necessary:

• balloon key;
• jack;
• regular puller of ball elements;
• two sets of new steering rods (whatever the car body, they are replaced in pairs).

The wheel is removed from the replacement side, and the steering wheel is turned in the direction where the replacement is not performed. The cotter pin is bent, and the nut is unscrewed. After all fasteners are removed, the tie rod end is removed. After that, the thrust itself is unscrewed. A new set of parts is lubricated and installed in reverse order.

A knock caused by a failed bearing (original - ZZE122 Koyo) should be eliminated as soon as possible. This is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, which is best left to experienced professionals.

Whatever the body of your Toyota Corolla, Fielder or a car of another model, regardless of the year of manufacture and generation, sufficient attention should be paid to the effective maintenance of the car. It is necessary to identify malfunctions in his work in time, especially those that affect manageability, and, consequently, safety. And when identified, promptly correct problems.

I bring to your attention a photo report on the repair of the steering rack of a 2001 Toyota Corolla car, the 120th body with a right-hand drive.

The need to replace the bushing was signaled daily by a terrible clanging and rattling when driving over small bumps / bumps (there are plenty of them in our city).

So:
1. We drive the car into the garage, turn the wheels straight. We fix the steering wheel with a seat belt from turning. Car on jacks. We remove the front wheels.

2. Unscrew the subframe. Bolts and nuts are marked in red.

3. And one more subframe bolt on each side.

4. We unpin the nuts of the steering tips on each side and unscrew the nuts.

We get this picture

After carefully remove the steering tips from the steering knuckle. Ideally a puller. I used a hammer as tips were going to change.

5. On the right side under the steering wheel, remove the plastic protection. There are two clips (indicated in red).

6. Unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft and bend the anther latches (indicated by arrows). We make marks on the shaft!

7. The subframe is lowered down, holding onto the ball joints and stabilizer links.

8. We unscrew 4 bolts of fastening of a steering rack.

10. Remove the boot and unscrew the intermediate shaft. Let's make marks!

eleven.Unscrew the lock nut with a gas wrench.

12. With such “thin-nose pliers”, the nut is perfectly unscrewed.

13. Remove the anthers from the steering rods.

14. Unscrew the tie rods.

The rail holds the key at 22. The rod is unscrewed by the key at 32. There were no lock washers.

15. Unscrew the locknut of the adjusting nut with a gas wrench.

I got everything together.

16. Remove the spring and pusher.

17. The shaft is removed with a little effort by hand.

19. On the left side of the rack housing, behind the aluminum retaining ring, the hero of the occasion is hidden - a plastic sleeve.

20. I removed this retaining ring with a bolt like this and two (inserted into each other extension from the tool kit).

With a large head of a bolt, he hooked it to the edge of the aluminum sleeve, and inside he hit the bolt with a metal extension (hitting the extension with a hammer).

The bushing flew out in 3 light blows.

22. We clean everything. Here you can see the inner bearing.

23. After global cleaning, lubricate the rail. I used this one.

24. Insert a new bushing. I installed the original. From fluoroplast, etc. I didn’t find it, maybe they would be more durable, although I don’t know.

We put a retaining ring on top of the installed bushing.

And we press in a suitable head.

25. Insert the rail and shaft. We tighten the nut and locknut onto the shaft.

26. We put back the pusher, spring and tighten the adjusting nut.

27. We fasten the steering rods. I used threadlocker (blue, detachable).

29. Clamps are perfectly tightened with pliers.

30. We twist the steering tips (left and right are different).

31. Assembly in reverse order + trip to the collapse / convergence.

Symptoms: knocking in the steering rack, which manifests itself when driving through small bumps (a disease of all Corollas with electric power steering).
The diagnosis of servicemen is the replacement of the rail (in practice, it helps out for a short time and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing everything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sleeve located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars, the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, the entire repair comes down to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, it is unscrewed by hand, it can be removed easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt that secures the intermediate shaft to the cross:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition lock, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by more revolutions than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the “snail” of the airbag and a malfunction of the latter is inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and take off the wheels (the front ones are enough).

Next comes the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the fasteners of the rail without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: we take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, with a sharp biting blow of the hammer we hit the place indicated below, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, along with the rail, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail is in full view: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) We take the key for 12 and unscrew the bolt indicated in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the locknut (we used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping glass of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then with a light blow with a copper hammer on it we take out the entire shaft with the bearing.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: with a 41 wrench, unscrew the lock nut

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the clamping piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to tear (we draw inside the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) We unscrew the left rod from the rail using the keys 29 and 22.

11) On the reverse side, relax the large clamp and unfasten the boot.

12) We take out the rolling pin from the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum pressure washer, behind it - the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all ailments. )

For left hand drive

We are modifying a prefabricated PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut, which is necessary for its compression and putting into place. We orient the cut in the direction of the direction of movement of the car - in this direction the rail experiences the least load.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and carefully straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) With a suitable head, we press in the aluminum washer. We put the rock in place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a key of 22, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are combined and the shaft falls through. We twist the clamping cup of the shaft until it stops, lock it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting assembly, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it 90 degrees, lock it with a lock nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the car after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened to a state where, when exiting a turn, the steering wheel itself returns to a straight position. Thrust into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail on the subframe, subframe to the car. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We attract everything and climb into the salon. There we weaken the upper cross, move the shaft between the crosses up and put the lower cross on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight ahead, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

Quite expensive and time-consuming tuning with the replacement of the steering column of the Toyota Corolla 120 can be done both at a service station for Toyota cars, and in your own garage with your own hands. But, before embarking on "all serious", you need to make sure that the cause of extraneous knocks that give into the steering wheel and body is precisely the malfunction of the steering rack.

In the experience of motorists described in the article, there are also easier repair methods.

Turn off the engine and start rocking the steering wheel from side to side with a swing of about 5-7 cm. If at the same time tapping is heard, then the steering system mechanisms are the cause. However, if the knock resembles, as it were, a clatter somewhere very close under the steering wheel, then this is the sound from an electrical loop. You should not pay attention to him.

The Toyota Corolla steering mechanisms include a steering column, universal joints, as well as the steering rack itself with rods and tips. The failure of a single mechanism is best determined by elimination.

First you need to exclude the malfunction of the tips as the cause of the knock. Here you will need an assistant. When he gently swings the steering wheel to the sides, you need to alternately take the tips with your palm. In a faulty hinge with a lot of play that needs repair, the sound will be felt in the palm of your hand.

The steering column itself or the shaft extending from it to the rack practically fail very rarely.The steering rack suffers much more with high mileage. In addition, it rusts heavily from dampness and salt. This can also lead to premature failure.

One of the most cost-effective ways to restore the Toyota Corolla steering rack is to repair it without dismantling it. For this operation, you need to stock up on an M6 grease gun with a rubber cap for it and Mannol grease in the amount of 400 g. You also need to choose a suitable drill and tap for threading a grease gun.

The figure shows two oilers with caps, but for this repair you need to choose one. The one for which there is both a drill and a tap.

Next, you need to drive the car into the pit, organize good lighting at the location of the steering rack. In the rail itself, choose a place where you can get close with a drill, threading tool and syringe press.

In the chosen place, we first drill a hole, then we try to extract the chips and metal crumbs formed during drilling from it as much as possible. To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner, and all kinds of wire hooks with strips of rags.

Moreover, we do the drilling very carefully so that after the passage of the rail body, the drill does not go deeper and does not damage other parts.

We cut the thread and screw the oiler into the hole. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the oiler during further operation, it is possible to apply a thread lock to its threaded part before screwing it in. This composition is sold in any auto shop. Buy enough of the smallest volume offered.

Next, using a syringe press, we fill the lubricant into the column.

The amount of lubricant for repairs was taken arbitrarily - 400 g. We wipe the surface of the rail next to the oiler, put a rubber cap on it. It is noticed that the steering wheel becomes a little heavier, but the rack knocks are no longer heard.

This repair can be considered universal for most cars, both for the Toyota Corolla 120, and for later models of the Toyota family and belonging to a higher class of models.

And yet, before the decision is made to drill the rack housing, you need to check for play two more crosses of the steering mechanism, which are located in the cabin under the steering wheel. Another source of knocking can be a telescopic pipe that regulates the reach of the steering wheel. Quite often, the knock comes from these parts, and it will be very disappointing when the knock does not stop during all the work on stuffing grease into the rail.

Sometimes crosses with large backlashes are installed directly at the factory, and they begin to knock after a short run. Despite the brand of the car, sometimes the bolts for fixing the crosses to the shaft can be the cause of knocking. They are often not locked, they turn away, knocks occur in these joints.

It is the steering racks of the Toyota Corolla that begin to make a knock and usually require repair only after a run of more than 100 thousand kilometers. First of all, the knock begins to be heard when the wheels hit the bumps in the roads - potholes and potholes. This sound is quite loud, but with a dull tint and does not give off to the steering wheel, vibration shocks are not felt by the hands.

For this type of Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack service, the recommended lubricant is AZMOL FIOL-1. If we compare it with Litol, then it wins greatly, as it belongs to NLGI 1-class and is characterized by low viscosity even at low temperatures. In addition, this lubricant does not contain molybdenum disulfides, which can adversely affect the polymer elements of the steering rack.